When i found you i was looking up rust repair because i live in Michigan. I was just admiring this paint job a second time and saw the license plate. Now i know why you got so good at rust repair ! 😆
Excellent work, Jerry! Thank you for the breakdown list of supplies and process, it helps us regular guys get a feel for the details that can make or break a repair and refinish. Considering the extensive damage to the right rear of that Mustang, you definitely gave it a new lease on life. It looks great!
It's a nice little car. I like driving it, mach 460 factory stereo (loud), loaded and everything works - decent gas mileage too (v6) - Glad you enjoyed the series of videos on this car. Nice hearing from you again too :)
As a former Australian car painter I am enjoying your content. I still do the odd car repaint and only use single stage for health and safety . Thanks and best wishes
Greetings from St Helen, Michigan. I'll bet it's nice in Australia. Good to hear you're still into the painting. You're welcome and have a great weekend :)
So many people say "you have to have a 60 or 80 gallon compressor or you CAN'T paint cars" While it would be awesome to afford one, I have a 20 gal. And guns that work within the cfm range I have. I enjoyed the video and will go thru and catch up on many more!
Thanks - if you have ?'s that you want answered feel free to ask. I will give you an answer that I know for sure is correct or I will say, "I don't know." Have a good week :)
Wow, that looks great, Jerry! I hope to spray some single stage acrylic urethane on my truck, soon, and have been worrying about needing a spray booth. Seeing the excellent results you are getting without a booth is very reassuring. Thanks for making these down-to-earth videos. They are very helpful to a weekend warrior, like me 👍Tony
Glad you liked it and no you don't need a spray booth. My dad worked at a place called JR's Custom Paint in the 70's - they did custom van's with mermaids, mountain scenes, etc. Absolutely beautiful deep clear coat - perfect paint jobs without a paint booth - corvettes, hot rods, vans everything - no booth.
Great video as usual. Colors like red can be very pricey buying from the local parts store, this can be a great alternative. Your work turned out great. Very well done!
Thanks Bill - red is unbelievably expensive. That's why I used TCP Global Resto Shop. Got a price for over 400 just the paint (Nason) single stage urethane. Add in the hardener and reducer and it easily tops 500. That's probably cheap stuff too!
From what I've heard, and haven't confirmed,is that they need gold to make red paint. If that's the case ,that explains the 40$ quart of single stage enamel I got about 6yrs ago for a project.
Awesome results and it looks like you did all the spraying in one day with no cut and buff. Sweet! I think I will try this on my 55 with the TCP products (when temperatures permit.)
Jerry Can you cut and buff Metallic Single Stage paint if you end up with a lot of orange peel? Many folks say not to due to the metallic particles. Is that a myth or a fact? Frank @@LakesideAutobody
Jerry Can you cut and buff Metallic Single Stage paint if you end up with a lot of orange peel? Many folks say not to due to the metallic particles. Is that a myth or a fact? Frank @@LakesideAutobody
HAVEN'T USED SINGLE STAGE IN A LONG TIME BEEN PAINTING MAIL TRUCKS AND FEDEX TRUCKS .I'M GETING READY TO PAINT A DODGE GRAND CARAVAN WITH SPEEDO KOTE HOT ROD BLACK NOW THATS GOING TO BE FUN FEDEX TRUCKS ARE A PAIN THEY BOTH GET BASE CLEAR .AND AGAIN GREAT JOB YOU MAKE IT LOOK EASY
Thanks. Hot rod black is a cool look. I have felt your pain. At one time where I worked we were painting city truck cabs on dump trucks, flat beds, etc. Lots of sand blasting, door bottoms, rust repair and misery. It was the summer to so boss wanted the blasting done outside (nice hot sun to work under).
You're welcome. I think you'll like this paint. Make sure you buy an extra gallon of reducer - the paint needs to be reduced a bit more than what comes in the kit :)
You're right - it really is good stuff. I think I could have laid it on a little heavier but I didn't feel like sanding out any runs - I real happy with it :)
@@jamesbarlowjr.3762 TCP Global is a paint supply distributor. Restoration Shop is the Brand of paint. The also sell Hot Rod Flatz and House of color. People like and use The Restoration Shop Acrylic Urethane single stage becausew it seems to be a quality product and the paint kits at TCP are fairly cheap. around 189.00 for the one gallon kit. which after mixing 4:1 gives 5qts to use and includes filters and stir sticks. Restoration shop says their 4:1 single stage does not require reducer but they do sell it for those that use it. Lots of videos on Restoration shop paint. Lakesside's are good DIY videos.
I think your video finally convinced me to go single stage on my semi, I didn't want to spend thousands of dollars on a paint job and from my understanding this AU paint hardens very well with chip resistance which is a big issue with big rigs running up and down the road daily.... Thanks for your great videos they really help and inspire d.i.y.er's like myself!!
Nason single stage Urethane is great paint too - a bit more $ but sprays real nice. You can purchase it locally too I believe - depends on where you live but you can usually find it near by. Here is the Nason Acrylic Enamel - they have Ful-Cry or Ful- Thane. ruclips.net/video/2H3UHCgQu2Q/видео.html . Single stage is the way to go especially if you are saving money and you are using a solid color (no metallic flakes).
@@tyflesh That will work. It's actually darn good paint for the price. Shined real well, flowed nicely, dried fast and hardened like higher priced paints. The grey with metallic flake would be a cool color on a semi :)
I like the sound of your compressor like a swiss watch hehe . Nice tutorials , greetings from Croatia. I improved my respray by watching your videos , thank you and wish you success in your future projects.
Lakeside Autobody It is very nice place to live here in Croatia. Not easy like in any country you must work hard to achieve your goals and success. Must be good place for fishing there in lake. What I like in your videos you use same sprayguns like me and similar workshop. On some other videos from other users they they use paintbooth worth $10000000 and most expensive guns but preparation is zero. In my opinion preparation is 90% of success. Same like guys who polish brand new cars or few years old car ang general public is blind can’t see bullshit. Many of them can learn from you .
Thanks Matt - I like the color (TCP Global Restoration Shop Paint) - it came really close to the original Ford Fire Red Pearl (Nason) which was a bit pricey.
Learned my lesson on single stage. Did my mustang in single stage urethane and looked great for about 2 yrs. Now looks pasty. Give it a buff and polish and maybe looks good for 2 months if im lucky. About the repaint again but will be using 2 stage and better quality.
Single stage holds up as well as BC/CC. Did you use the correct amount of hardener? Correct reducer? Mix it right? What brand was it? Truthfully - single stage is perfectly fine and will hold up forever :)
@@LakesideAutobody I mixed it according to the spec sheets for the paint. I paid very close attention to the ratios and measured every step. Sorry I cant remember the name off the top of my head, Id have to look thru my records. Like I said car looked great for about 2 years then gets a chalky look anywhere sun hits its. Once buffed I cant let the car see much sun at all before it gets back. My other major grip is anything will stain the paint that touches and require to buff out that spot, I mean just dirt from your hands. Maybe it was just a bad paint I dunno but Ive never had any of that happen with BC/CC to this point.
@@markrogers7304 Sounds to me like it was a poor quality paint - I believe what you say though - I've come across a few brands of paint, primer, filler, etc. that I just don't like - it just doesn't work. Stick with what works for you my friend - thanks for the comments and good talking to you :)
@@LakesideAutobody prob so on poor quality. All I remember is I got it from tcpglobal. Might have been Kirker...??? I know I also used black satin single stage on some accents and that still looks as good as day I sprayed. Since I've had car since 07 and money I've put into it, it's 1 I'm never selling. 2004 Mach 1
I really enjoyed this whole series, thank you for sharing your knowledge and ability and for keeping the ego out…….some of these guys on here act as though they are talking to children……but i just think that youtube is a PUBLIC forum and if the person making the video on whatever subject matter can’t take criticism then maybe they should rethink being on youtube. Not trying to choose sides just saying.
You do have to be able to take criticism for sure - there will be plenty of that but the comments are mostly positive so that's good. Thanks for the support and always checking out the videos my friend :)
Wow that looks amazing you are very good at everything I have seen you do on your channel and have learned alot thank you brother and keep the videos coming! God bless you
Very helpful. That gun seems to work very nicely (of course it takes a knowledgeable hand to wield it). I know you state you have a box fan for ventilation but I can see that the garage fills up with mist pretty heavily. I would really recommend some kind of disposable suit when doing this as your skin absorbs all that toxic mist pretty easily. Puts quite a strain on the ol' liver. Don't want to see your life shortened.
Thanks - I really should have a window or vent on the other end of the garage for flow through - maybe a louvered vent or something. Thank you for your concern - I'll look into some protective clothing :)
@@LakesideAutobody .......so it's been a year, are you still painting in your underwear 🤣. Seriously, this juice is nasty in the pours. BTW, nice work👍
And surely you need an air fed mask to spray that safely. I dont believe the respirators properly filter out the isocyanates which I think are present in that paint.
@@gracht24 You can use this - 3M 07193 Dual Cartridge Respirator Assembly Organic Vapor - the reason they push fresh air is because folks rarely change out their masks i.e. keep using the same one for years. Heck for $26, you can get a new one for every paint job.
looks good. spray on 2 tone tomorrow, white top and chestnut body. original....i have the 2hp craftsman, but i am going to use a 6.5 hp craftsman as the cfm on it is 15 vs 5. hopefully last question, what is air pressure on painting and mist? using a spectrum 1.3 tip and 9cfm gun. and if i paint top first, how long to dry enough to cover in plastic with no tape to shield from painting body. thank you so much for help.
Sorry about the late reply. The air pressure on the mist or drop coat is about 5 psi more that you were using. Back up a bit and crop dust it if you have a bit of mottling or blotchy spots. Don't worry about spraying the base coat on the dry side to eliminate tiger stipes and mottling. The clear will still lay flat if you lay it on wet. Hope that helps - let me know how it goes for you my friend :)
@@LakesideAutobody I am shooting Nason Fulthane single stage, thanks to your video, the painting today was perfect.! I am very happy with results, painted 7 hours ago, just the roof, as it is a different color. and still has wet look I wanted. I am going to wait 5 days to paint body, as we have a week of crappy weather, I am painting in a 3 car garage with open sides that I have plastic sides up, using a torpedo heater, so far so good... the real test is the body , as I have never painted metalic before, this video sure helps, thanks again, I will apply your tips.
This is great!! I just bought single stage acrylic urethane metallic paint from tcp global and found your video. I plan to watch the video a few times to get your sequence down. This gives me some confidence, Thanks!
Try it on a metal coffee can first - that will give you the feel for it. Every paint is different so you'll want to get used to it of get familiar with it so you don't run it or spray it too dry :)
@@LakesideAutobody In reading your material list and some answers below, I see you used a reducer. I have the exact same TCP Global same paint kit, but british racing green. It comes with the hardener, and I'm wondering if I should get some reducer as well ? I live in Encanto/National City temp wise.
Just found your site and really enjoy watching you work. Wish I lived in your area I have a 1937 chevy 2 Dr SD street rod that needs a fresh paint job. I have been considering calling the mobile glass blaster to take it down to bare metal and doing it myself. Instead of the 16,000 $ the paint shop quoted
I wished you lived near me too - I need some car guys around me! You can do this yourself and you found the right channel to help you with that. Feel free to ask any ?s you need to as you go along - I get to them 1-2 times a day. Jerry
Gotta say man, looks pretty snazzy!!! Great job. I have this exact car... It's a 01 they are starting to show their age and mine is no different it needs a paint job... Mine is white thinking of staying with the white.
Great job collectively I love your style and dedication to your work and producing videos , great job my friend you got my vote , take care and thank you
Looks very good for a single stage urethane. I finally got the rest of my welding equipment fixing to do rust repair on both my Integras and get them painted before fall gets here. Thanks for all your helpful videos.
It's pretty nice paint. The truth is... nothing shined like the 1980's Dupont Centari single stage enamel with hardener - it would lay down flat as glass and even flatter after you left the spray booth or garage - it would keep leveling even after you sprayed. Awesome paint!
You can add more reducer to make it wetter for sure. The mist coat is a coat that is sprayed like dusting crops..... you want to sort of make sure your metallic flakes are distributed evenly. Here's a video on that - ruclips.net/video/yGCpM6Cwhb0/видео.html
Here's one on water removal - I keep it real simple - ruclips.net/video/CSGAgAyeInA/видео.html Here's one on compressors used - again nothing special - ruclips.net/video/53miAObOdVY/видео.html Finally - no booth - you actually don't need one - just a box fan to pull fumes out. All of the dust you get in a paint job is already on the panel before the first coat - here's a vid on that - ruclips.net/video/VNrIwVMxjI0/видео.html Some tricks for zero dust are shown :)
This video gave me an idea. I just sanded the hood down on my 02 f150 supercrew that is E4 red. Several areas of the hood where I went down to bare metal I sprayed grey primer. After looking at that mustang I might just paint that hood with black primer and see how that works and delay painting it back to red. That might look super
@@LakesideAutobody I have seen that scheme on some ford f150s that have that 97 to 03 body style and some even came with the black center grill and they had a sports name and Ive seen some with flat black hoods with regular colors on doors and fenders, so it does exist. BTW, I did subscribe to your channel and yours is the first when it comes to auto paints and repair and painting and mixture. Youre a person I could easily work with
Wish i would've seen this video before i painted my car with single stage.my car don't want to keep a shine.mix ratio was rite compressor was set rite but i don't know.thanks for the great video definitely gonna subscribe.
I bought the extra gallon of reducer. I think it needs to be thinned more than the instructions say. I have the mix ration I used in the description. Thanks and have a good weekend :)
another timely video I have only used TCP GLOBAL SINGLE-STAGE PAINT in the past I switched over to NASON URETHANE-both gave me good results; I was told that the TCP line of paints is formulated by PPG- SHOP LINE OR OMNI? Doesn,t matter to me the paint works good; and it's affordable /great for D.I.Y.ers thank again PATRICK.P
Sound like that may be true because it really reminded me of the old Dupont Centari or PPG Ditzler Delstar whatever their enamel was in the 80's. Sprayed the same. I love Nason too but they wanted $466 for just the paint (gallon).
I buy that on Amazon or Ebay - ACDelco GM Original Equipment 10-2013 Body Joint and Seam Filler Compound - 10.1 oz I like it a lot - dries fast, white, paintable, flexible :)
Nice work, I just saw yr video and I was interested in getting a spray gun like yours, unfortunately they don’t make that model anymore. I’m new to painting, Is there a spray gun that does the same job that you can recommend? Thanks again!
You can't go wrong with a Sharpe FX3000 HVLP Spray Gun 1.4mm tip. If you are looking for something cheaper - the purple spray gun from Harbor Freight works great along the Black Widow spray gun from HF. One more that can be purchased at Home Depot is the Cambell Hausfeld HVLP Gravity Feed (DH790000AV) very good all around spray gun.
Is the process the same for a satin metallic? I am going to be spraying TCP Global Custom Coat - Gunmetal Gray Metallic Satin on my 1979 F250 in the near future. I am almost done with bodywork but haven't blocked or primed yet. Also, what is the most efficient method for filling rust pitting? I had to hit the roof and bedsides down to bare metal with an angle grinder with a wire wheel to get the rust out. I have gotten most of my bondo and dent pulling done, and all metal patches on. This truck has very light pitting on the hood, roof, and bedside tops I have yet to completely fill. Thanks.
Same process for color you bought - as long as it is the single stage paint. For filling rust pitting, just sand blast it out or at least do your best grinding it out or wire brushing it out - you can use rust converter but not necessary if you blast it. Then just fill with body filler, sand , prime, block, etc. Basically, blast, fill, prime, paint.
Great job brother, especially with that mist coat it's so important with metallics,I did show quality testis for 20 years and that mist coat done properly can't really make or break the lay of the metallic.Thumbs up even though it's a Stang,lol,I do Mostly Mopars and tons of rotten and butchers Camaros.Good videos.,no Basing around or trying to be a personality,
Firstly, thank you so much for your videos. They are so helpful. I noticed 3 parts of reducer. Is that the trick to this paint to ensure it’s nice and flat? I also noticed you’re pretty far away with the gun. It that to avoid runs? Thanks again
This paint is a bit on the thick side so yes, reducer is a must. Use what you are comfortable with though. As for the gun and distance. I grew up with older guns - they had smaller patterns than today. Again use the pattern you are comfortable with. Wide or medium width - they both work fine. I move fast so a smaller pattern works better for me thus the distance away from the panel. Pattern really doesn't have much to do with how well your paint job turns out. That's all internet, TV, magazine stuff. Heck, I've seen really nice paint jobs using a spray bomb cans - not a very wide pattern there at all ✌
Fantastic! 2 questions. Would wet sanding the primer before paint benefit anything or just spray color after primer dries? For this type of single stage paint can you cut and buff afterwards if you wanted? Turned out looking great!
The benefit of wet sanding your primer before paint is a smooth surface to paint over, excellent adhesion (paint), you can catch any last imperfections. You can cut and buff single stage solid colors and metallics :)
Awesome paint job! Love the color and the car. But if I may ask, what is the difference between a "wet" coat and a "dry" coat and how do you achieve each? Appreciate any thoughts and thanks for the video. Great job.
To put it simply, your last coat is going to be the wettest. You want to put that coat on as wet as possible w/o running it. You can spray wetter on the hood, rood and deck lid but be careful on side panels and around body lines - paint can gather and sag :)
Here's a decent example of a mist coat: ruclips.net/video/yGCpM6Cwhb0/видео.html Basically on the last coat as it is tacking up go around one more time giving it somewhat of a dusting. The paint will "melt" in and stay shiny but the flakes will be nice and even.
The car looks awesome. I just painted my truck cab and had a lot of orange peel. (My air pressure was too low and I didn’t reduce the paint). So I am wet sanding with 1500 grit as seen in your video. Could I clear coat now? Or just cut and buff? This is single stage copper pearl. I put 3coats on but just worried about thickness after sanding. Thanks Paul
As long as you haven't sanded through you should be OK. Try a small section and see if you like the look. I wet sanded and buffed the truck lid on this car because of a bug in the paint - you can check it out at the end of the video - it won't mess with the metallic as long as you don't go crazy sanding :)
When shooting the whole car with metallic urethane is it better to have the doors, hood, and trunk on or off the car? Also how much overlap do you use on each step? Thank you
In my opinion, it's always best to have it all put together - you know stuff can happen when assembling and it's always a bummer scratch that nice new paint. Over lap is about 50% - the amount of overlap doesn't really matter - just make sure it looks even as you are spraying. You have to see the paint going on so put some lights on the wall (like a spray booth) to see the light reflection in the paint) Feel free to ask more ?s if needed :)
@@LakesideAutobody thank you so much. I live in north Texas so my temperature can range form 70 to 110. More than likely I will try and paint my car in the 80s to 90s. I don’t really have to deal with that much humidity. Do you recommend a medium or slow reducer from TCP Global?
@@heathhenderson7217 I've always used medium but live in Michigan. You'd probably do better with slow as it will give you more time to get around the car and not have a dry area where you started and finished. I always go around twice on the last coat to remedy that anyway - the last time around is to make sure you have it nice and wet. One more thing... You'll mix your paint like 4:1 paint to activator then reduce however much you want. I usually reduce to a final mixture of 4 parts paint - 1 part hardener - around 2 parts reducer - even more if you need it to flow more :)
You got all the luck. I plan to spray my 17 foot long dodge charger a similar red, and can't imagine painting single sections rather than walking the whole length of the car. Streaks, thin spots, mottling, and overspray...I would love to spray like you did and get the same result..good show!
Just copy exactly what I did in the video. Check out the description for the mix ratio and other stuff that may help. There will always be problems - that you just have to accept. Wish I could be there to help :) Ask all the ?'s you want - I'll answer them. Jerry
Not sure where but I've heard good things about that company and their products. Haven't used them but I'm sure it's good stuff. I haven't run into too many brands that are absolutely a no go.
@@LakesideAutobody good to know. What you think is the cheapest base, clear, sealer, and primer that lasts decently? I have a truck I'm repainting OEM colors but selling it after. Trying to make as much as possible without ruining the paint job for someone.
The video and comments together are the best instructions I have seen on how to spray single stage metallic. Thank you. I am planning to spray for the first time an 85 Corvette with single stage metallic and appreciate the effort in putting the video together and in answering the questions in the comments. The question I have is how to best prep the fiberglass on this car. I have chemically stripped and then sanded in progression 80, 150, and 220 grit. There is now a mix of the original black sealer coat and some white gel coat showing. When passing my hand over the panels, they feel straight with the exception of 3 or 4 places where the sander may have caught an edge and dug a little too deep. I am inclined to spray 3-4 coats of 2K primer then block sand it. Do you think this is the best approach or would you skip the 2K and just use a single part sealer?
You've got it right with the urethane primer surfacer. After it dries, give it a dusting of black spray bomb paint as a guide coat and block sand. This video may help - it is also on a fiberglass hood - ruclips.net/video/Phd8cvKmapo/видео.html Glad you liked the video my friend - let me know if you have any more ?s - Jerry
@@LakesideAutobody In that video you use quite a lot of reducer but you are spraying over some primer that has already been applied. If I wanted to err on the side of filling more scratches and low spots would I use maybe only one part or even no reducer or is it better to use more reducer and more coats?
@@paulpainter3065 The problem when painting an entire car is trying to keep the paint wet enough so that it lays out flat - little to no orange peel. With thicker paint you'll battle the orange peel a bit but yes, it will hide more imperfections. It's up to you how much reducer you use - maybe try a a few test panels - or metal coffee cans to practice on - see how your mix is :)
Project completed and decent results for first time painting. My son did the spraying since it is his car. We copied your method almost exactly. Here is the link to the results. drive.google.com/drive/folders/1rfyDOJkGTmMBi2DsDhFhwrrARK6WcCYj?usp=sharing Thanks again.
@@paulpainter3065 Wow! That looks great - your son did a fine job. If you want you can upload some pictures to the Lakeside Autobody Discord. I'm sure other folks would love to see that - discord.com/invite/Qm6qJgcubu Again - great job and your car looks really nice.
Man....you made me nervous with your shirt. LOL My luck I'd get it in the paint. Looks good I have only ever painted one car with base coat and clear coat. Dupont Centari and Nelson used to easy to buy at the parts store and look good.
Dupont makes great paint as well as PPG. I saw that too with my shirt - it's a real bummer dragging something across fresh paint. Gotta wait till it drys - wet sand and try again.
Thanks for the video. I have a 1982 GMC truck with a rootbeer metal flake single stage from the factory. I have done some touch ups on the truck, but by the time I buff out the paint the metal flake is muted and the paint just looks brown. I bought the paint from a local paint store that supplies all the local body shops and they used the original paint codes. After painting how do I finish the job? Should I be sanding or buffing? Any help would be appreciated.
In the 70's, 80's, etc there was just single stage metallic paint - lacquer or enamel and we sanded and buffed both with out a problem. I suppose the key is to spray it well enough to just have to lightly sand out the nibs, any dust/dirt, and light orange peel. Don't want to sand to deep and have and effect on the metallic flakes. After lightly sanding with 1000 or finer buff and you'll be fine. I wet sanded and buffed the deck lid on this car - you can see the results at the end of the video :)
@@LakesideAutobody Thanks! I noticed that you used a sealer over the top of the primer and old paint. The sealer was also darker than the primer. I only used primer. It was a very light grey and was a real you-know-what to cover. I blew through a lot of paint. Maybe that made the paint too dark and messed me up? How big a role does the color of the sealer make in the final look of the paint? What should I have used instead, something darker seems to make sense. OEM Code for paint is: 68, WAEM7481, WA7481. Any hints on a spray gun, nozzle size for shooting metallic? I don't do this for a living so I'm looking for something $200 or lower. Btw, I have watched several of your other videos since this first one. Very helpful!
@@femorous The reason guys use sealer is to avoid what you are talking about. Sealer (no matter what color really) gets it all one color so you are not fooled while painting - thinking, "is this lighter?" or "is this darker?" etc. They do make different color sealers but I never saw the need. Heck if I'm doing a white car I'll give it one light coat of regular primer (light grey) to act as a sealer and help me get it covered faster. If you painting a dark color, use the regular dark sealer. Sealer really doesn't have a huge effect on the overall coverage as your paint should really cover in about 2-3 coats. A decent brand paint will cover in 2-3 coats. Hope that all helps a bit :)
@@LakesideAutobody Great help! I looked closely at the hood and noticed that under the 40 year old original paint the sealer was indeed black, not grey or white. I bought some black sealer and plan to give it a go in a week. Thanks again.
Single stage metallic is sort of hard to spray. You can get mottled, blotchy looking paint because of the way metallic flakes behave when too wet. With BC/CC you can spray your base somewhat dry which is perfect for metallic flake distribution and then get it nice and wet with the clear. On this job and other SS metallic paint you'll want to use a mist or drop coat on your last time around the car to make sure the metallic is "right". Here's a video on that technique - ruclips.net/video/yGCpM6Cwhb0/видео.html even though this was basecoat , the same applies to single stage (SS) Basically BC/CC is easier than SS when it comes to metallic paint. If you are spraying a solid color - go with SS :)
Doesn't matter - as long as your paint is going on even and wet. So folks have the fan wide open some close it up a bit. Some spray from further away some closer. Think of a spray bomb can - super tight pattern and no pressure but you can still get a great paint job with them if you lay it down even and wet. Hope that helps :)
Awesome results, I'm getting trouble with that single stage metallic also from TCP global, Im getting heavy orange peel, is because the wrong reducer or should I thin a bit more? Moving faster avoid orange peel? If not metallic the dust coat is also necessary?, Thanks in advance
If you are getting orange peel there are a few cures: 1) make sure your gun is clean - should be spraying the most paint possible 2) use more reducer - TCP was thick I reduced it almost 1 part paint to 1 part reducer. 3) Use a slower reducer - paint will flow a bit better 4) get it wetter. If you're spraying solid colors (no metallic flakes), there's no need for a drop/dust coat. Let me know how it goes :)
quick question, I am using a 2k primer on an old 63 tbird. should I hit it with a 4:1 mix and then a 4:1:2 mix on primer? do I wait for the 4:1 to dry then sand and then apply it as a sealer? if so, how long is dry time before i sand. and how long before i can paint color? or......do i just do it as a 4:1.....sand and shoot paint?
All of those are correct :) Joking aside, you can do what you feel will work best for the situation - there are tons of combinations. I usually spray my primer thick for the blocking coat. Then I spray it thinner for the finish sanding coat. If I have bare spots left just before painting you can hit those with some spray bomb primer or thin spray gun primer or sealer. You're always going to do the 4:1 but reduce/thin it to the specific need at the time. Let me know if that helps - if not ask again :)
@@LakesideAutobody yes thanks.....so, spray thick let dry ,sand, then spray with reducer in mix, or just spray thick, then spray over it reduced then sand? I want to do it with less days working. Ideally I want to spray primer friday and paint car saturday......do I really need to use reducer? is sealing important? or can i just spray it thick, sand and be on with it........sorry I am complicating it
@@mightybeeb Here's the fastest way. Spray your primer so that it comes out of the gun and lays somewhat flat. You want it as thick as you can but have it lay down sort of smooth and spray nicely. Next day.... DA sand that guy with 220 or 240 and paint it. It's not going to be super straight but its fast and you've got it painted. We did that plenty of times at work like if we needed to get a job out immediately. Prime it, buzz it down, paint it, done :)
I know this is an older vid but I just found your channel about a week ago. That looks really nice. Wish you were about 800mls closer. I"d love for you to paint my 88 Bronco. What do you charge for a single stage job?
I actually just work on cars from COPART or flip rust buckets. I can only work on my own stuff as this is a country but residential neighborhood. Prices are all over the map but I'd estimate prices range anywhere from $1500 and up mostly because of material costs.
Yes the las clips of the deck lid was a cut a buff because I had a bug crawling in the paint. Just wanted to show you could sand and buff single stage metallic paint - you'll often hear that you can't because you'll mess up the flakes or look of the paint :)
well, the car sprayed out nice and even but there must have been some contamination. as i have some spots that fisheyes, more like lines, ugly, how can i fix that? just a few spots. I thought i did everything right in prep. never happened to me before, some of the lines are an inch long. do i sand then touch up with brush? or will the spots still come through? i think if i sand and respray i will have same result in those areas?
First of all don't feel bad. I was thinking the other day how most jobs don't turn out absolutely perfect and to try and be happy with good enough. That being said, you may have had something come out of the air lines or something. Usually when it's a line it means there was something on the rag/rags used when wiping it down just before painting. I often use paper towels, then blow off any dust using my bare hand, then use a tack cloth. I don't get fish eyes even though I use a bare hand - pretty dry hands i guess. The way to fix it is to wet sand and buff. If that isn't going to do it, you'll have to wet sand and spray again - maybe just the individual panel. It won't happen again if you sand that spot and wipe clean with wax and grease remover - use a paper towel or cloth meant for auto body. Keep me posted on your progress :)
I sanded down to primer in 4 areas, and some spots it came off quick and i have bare metal, sux....do i have to reseal that spot with primer again? then spray? how long of a window do i have to respray if i just lightly sand with 2000 and then degrease? just sprayed the car at noon today, sanded at 7pm. I may hit most of the car with 1 more coat, how long do i have? would like to get it done tomorrow. i know i am a pain in the ass, lol @@LakesideAutobody
@@LakesideAutobody thank you so much, i have 1 small area that is dull from missing a wet coat or a little overspray on final coat. how would you address this area is like 5 inches by 3 inches on upper trunk corner near rear window on side, can overspray be buffed in that area? clay bar? would rather not repaint as i am out of material. hoping it will buff out I have 3-4 good coats in that area, it is single stage urethane metalic
Nice work. She came out nice. Thanks for sharing your skills and knowledge. I've been looking at the Restoration Shop paints. They have a lot of color options. Keep up the good work. Thanks again.
These videos are a gold mine of practical "how-to's" from a master. Okay. What kind of sealer do you use and can I spray acrylic lacquer over it? Also, on the mist coat of the acrylic enamel, do you add in extra reducer to over-thin it? If not, I don't understand the purpose of the mist coat after a super-wet coat. About the bugs, here in west TN this time of year they would be crawling all through it! Can hardly get lacquer laid down and still have to sand them out. Thank you again for all these fantastic videos!
The sealer is Auto Body Master Sealer Gray SG1 from Auto Value autoparts store $48/gal. Yes, you can spray lacquer over it. On the mist coat, your right, I usually spray it a little thinner to help it melt in nicely. The mist coat is only to distribute the metallic flakes evenly so that there is no mottling - like throwing a handful of grass seed up in the air to spread it evenly. On bugs - paint during the day and pick those suckers out as soon as they land in it (eye brow tweezers) - give it a heavy shot of paint to flatten his tracks out. Worst case - you might have to wet sand the spot and buff. Here's on older vid on bugs in the paint it may help you out a bit - Hope I answered you ?s - Jerry
This video sold me on single stage hopefully mine will come out like this.
Let me know how it goes :)
great youtuber here folks he answers all the questions.....i dont know if ive ever seen that before.......good job jerry....ive learned alot....thanks
You're welcome Joe - thanks for the support :)
Did you not use clear coat??? I think you didn't.....looks great though
@@PaulPippinjr-ev2wi single stage paint gets no clear.
I've watched this video a dozen times.
Glad you like it Bill - have a good week my friend :)
Loved it
When i found you i was looking up rust repair because i live in Michigan. I was just admiring this paint job a second time and saw the license plate. Now i know why you got so good at rust repair ! 😆
Yes - Michigan knows rust! Nice state to live though - I think it is a great state. What part of MI are you from?
@@LakesideAutobody I'm about 10 minutes north of Standish.
Excellent work, Jerry! Thank you for the breakdown list of supplies and process, it helps us regular guys get a feel for the details that can make or break a repair and refinish. Considering the extensive damage to the right rear of that Mustang, you definitely gave it a new lease on life. It looks great!
It's a nice little car. I like driving it, mach 460 factory stereo (loud), loaded and everything works - decent gas mileage too (v6) - Glad you enjoyed the series of videos on this car. Nice hearing from you again too :)
Oh , forgot to say , That Mustang looks Awesome !
Thanks John :)
awsome video man glad you explained the reason for the mist coat at the end, makes heaps of sense to blend the metallic flake
Yes - it's like crop dusting a field or trying to plant grass seed evenly - best way is to toss it way high in the air and let it come down evenly :)
@@LakesideAutobody it came up good on my second home job mate waaaaay better than my first paint job before seeing vid
As a former Australian car painter I am enjoying your content. I still do the odd car repaint and only use single stage for health and safety . Thanks and best wishes
Greetings from St Helen, Michigan. I'll bet it's nice in Australia. Good to hear you're still into the painting. You're welcome and have a great weekend :)
@@LakesideAutobody Thanks Jerry, Love the vids and new sub
So many people say "you have to have a 60 or 80 gallon compressor or you CAN'T paint cars" While it would be awesome to afford one, I have a 20 gal. And guns that work within the cfm range I have. I enjoyed the video and will go thru and catch up on many more!
Thanks - if you have ?'s that you want answered feel free to ask. I will give you an answer that I know for sure is correct or I will say, "I don't know." Have a good week :)
Nice work, she came out beautiful.
Thanks - glad you enjoyed it :)
@@LakesideAutobody Just wanted to ask, who do you get the sheet metal from that you use to fab your parts? Thanks again for your videos.
I mix a little clear with my last coat.amazing results
👍 😊
About to paint my '72 Lancia with TCP single stage, this was great, thanks!
Let me know how it turns out - send some pictures if you want to schoolvideolibrary at gmail dot com - Jerry
Wow, that looks great, Jerry! I hope to spray some single stage acrylic urethane on my truck, soon, and have been worrying about needing a spray booth. Seeing the excellent results you are getting without a booth is very reassuring.
Thanks for making these down-to-earth videos. They are very helpful to a weekend warrior, like me
👍Tony
Glad you liked it and no you don't need a spray booth. My dad worked at a place called JR's Custom Paint in the 70's - they did custom van's with mermaids, mountain scenes, etc. Absolutely beautiful deep clear coat - perfect paint jobs without a paint booth - corvettes, hot rods, vans everything - no booth.
Great video as usual. Colors like red can be very pricey buying from the local parts store, this can be a great alternative. Your work turned out great. Very well done!
Thanks Bill - red is unbelievably expensive. That's why I used TCP Global Resto Shop. Got a price for over 400 just the paint (Nason) single stage urethane. Add in the hardener and reducer and it easily tops 500. That's probably cheap stuff too!
From what I've heard, and haven't confirmed,is that they need gold to make red paint.
If that's the case ,that explains the 40$ quart of single stage enamel I got about 6yrs ago for a project.
Awesome results and it looks like you did all the spraying in one day with no cut and buff. Sweet! I think I will try this on my 55 with the TCP products (when temperatures permit.)
Yes - no cut and buff - only on the deck lid 'cause I got a bug in the paint. Thanks for watching and the comment :)
Jerry
Can you cut and buff Metallic Single Stage paint if you end up with a lot of orange peel? Many folks say not to due to the metallic particles. Is that a myth or a fact?
Frank @@LakesideAutobody
Jerry
Can you cut and buff Metallic Single Stage paint if you end up with a lot of orange peel? Many folks say not to due to the metallic particles. Is that a myth or a fact?
Frank @@LakesideAutobody
HAVEN'T USED SINGLE STAGE IN A LONG TIME BEEN PAINTING MAIL TRUCKS AND FEDEX TRUCKS .I'M GETING READY TO PAINT A DODGE GRAND CARAVAN WITH SPEEDO KOTE HOT ROD BLACK NOW THATS GOING TO BE FUN FEDEX TRUCKS ARE A PAIN THEY BOTH GET BASE CLEAR .AND AGAIN GREAT JOB YOU MAKE IT LOOK EASY
Thanks. Hot rod black is a cool look. I have felt your pain. At one time where I worked we were painting city truck cabs on dump trucks, flat beds, etc. Lots of sand blasting, door bottoms, rust repair and misery. It was the summer to so boss wanted the blasting done outside (nice hot sun to work under).
Great job. Thanks for the video.
You're welcome KG - have a good weekend :)
Good job, I like single stage it has it applications.
Thanks - me too :)
Awesome job from start to finish with great detail on the collision work and the refinishing!
Thank you - always a pleasure to hear from you. 😀
And all the tech included in description. Great vid. Thanks.
You're welcome - glad you enjoyed it :)
I have a 1990 Tbird anniverary edition that I will be painting single stage black , and my first time painting.
What brand paint are you using? Let me know how it goes and feel free to ask any ?s - I answer the comments once a day - usually at night. Have fun :)
Man that was nice 👌
Very nice. I plan on using a mettalic gunmetal grey urethane on my 2013 RAM SLT Coupe. Thanks for the tips , especially the mist coat.
You're welcome. I think you'll like this paint. Make sure you buy an extra gallon of reducer - the paint needs to be reduced a bit more than what comes in the kit :)
Looks great Jerry!! I like that TCP paint, that's what I'm painting my F100 with!! It flows out nice and drys fast!!☺
You're right - it really is good stuff. I think I could have laid it on a little heavier but I didn't feel like sanding out any runs - I real happy with it :)
Never heard of TCP Paint.
@@jamesbarlowjr.3762 TCP Global is a paint supply distributor. Restoration Shop is the Brand of paint. The also sell Hot Rod Flatz and House of color. People like and use The Restoration Shop Acrylic Urethane single stage becausew it seems to be a quality product and the paint kits at TCP are fairly cheap. around 189.00 for the one gallon kit. which after mixing 4:1 gives 5qts to use and includes filters and stir sticks. Restoration shop says their 4:1 single stage does not require reducer but they do sell it for those that use it. Lots of videos on Restoration shop paint. Lakesside's are good DIY videos.
Really nice! I've enjoyed the mustang videos a lot! Can't wait for what you do next.
Thanks - always good to hear from you :)
I think your video finally convinced me to go single stage on my semi, I didn't want to spend thousands of dollars on a paint job and from my understanding this AU paint hardens very well with chip resistance which is a big issue with big rigs running up and down the road daily.... Thanks for your great videos they really help and inspire d.i.y.er's like myself!!
Nason single stage Urethane is great paint too - a bit more $ but sprays real nice. You can purchase it locally too I believe - depends on where you live but you can usually find it near by. Here is the Nason Acrylic Enamel - they have Ful-Cry or Ful- Thane. ruclips.net/video/2H3UHCgQu2Q/видео.html . Single stage is the way to go especially if you are saving money and you are using a solid color (no metallic flakes).
@@LakesideAutobody I was looking at the tcp restoration paint, I'm in Ohio near Cleveland I wanted a dark grey with metallic flake...
@@tyflesh That will work. It's actually darn good paint for the price. Shined real well, flowed nicely, dried fast and hardened like higher priced paints. The grey with metallic flake would be a cool color on a semi :)
Wow! That car came out beautiful.
Thank you - glad you liked it :)
I like the sound of your compressor like a swiss watch hehe . Nice tutorials , greetings from Croatia. I improved my respray by watching your videos , thank you and wish you success in your future projects.
Wow Croatia - is Croatia a nice place to live? Glad to hear the videos help you and you're very welcome. Greetings from St Helen, Michigan. :)
Lakeside Autobody It is very nice place to live here in Croatia. Not easy like in any country you must work hard to achieve your goals and success. Must be good place for fishing there in lake. What I like in your videos you use same sprayguns like me and similar workshop. On some other videos from other users they they use paintbooth worth $10000000 and most expensive guns but preparation is zero. In my opinion preparation is 90% of success. Same like guys who polish brand new cars or few years old car ang general public is blind can’t see bullshit. Many of them can learn from you .
Wow that’s a great job…beautiful work man
Thanks Matt - I like the color (TCP Global Restoration Shop Paint) - it came really close to the original Ford Fire Red Pearl (Nason) which was a bit pricey.
That's a great color! Nicely done!
Thank you beautiful work
You are welcome RTE - have a great weekend :)
Learned my lesson on single stage. Did my mustang in single stage urethane and looked great for about 2 yrs. Now looks pasty. Give it a buff and polish and maybe looks good for 2 months if im lucky.
About the repaint again but will be using 2 stage and better quality.
Single stage holds up as well as BC/CC. Did you use the correct amount of hardener? Correct reducer? Mix it right? What brand was it? Truthfully - single stage is perfectly fine and will hold up forever :)
@@LakesideAutobody I mixed it according to the spec sheets for the paint. I paid very close attention to the ratios and measured every step. Sorry I cant remember the name off the top of my head, Id have to look thru my records.
Like I said car looked great for about 2 years then gets a chalky look anywhere sun hits its. Once buffed I cant let the car see much sun at all before it gets back.
My other major grip is anything will stain the paint that touches and require to buff out that spot, I mean just dirt from your hands.
Maybe it was just a bad paint I dunno but Ive never had any of that happen with BC/CC to this point.
@@markrogers7304 Sounds to me like it was a poor quality paint - I believe what you say though - I've come across a few brands of paint, primer, filler, etc. that I just don't like - it just doesn't work. Stick with what works for you my friend - thanks for the comments and good talking to you :)
@@LakesideAutobody prob so on poor quality. All I remember is I got it from tcpglobal. Might have been Kirker...??? I know I also used black satin single stage on some accents and that still looks as good as day I sprayed.
Since I've had car since 07 and money I've put into it, it's 1 I'm never selling. 2004 Mach 1
Awesome paint job, you make it look too easy!
Thanks 👍 It was hard that day - had sweat drippin' off the chin - no good for painting the roof or deck lid.
I really enjoyed this whole series, thank you for sharing your knowledge and ability and for keeping the ego out…….some of these guys on here act as though they are talking to children……but i just think that youtube is a PUBLIC forum and if the person making the video on whatever subject matter can’t take criticism then maybe they should rethink being on youtube. Not trying to choose sides just saying.
You do have to be able to take criticism for sure - there will be plenty of that but the comments are mostly positive so that's good. Thanks for the support and always checking out the videos my friend :)
Wow that looks amazing you are very good at everything I have seen you do on your channel and have learned alot thank you brother and keep the videos coming! God bless you
God bless you too my friend. Thanks for watching and glad you like the content. Enjoy the rest of the week :)
Very helpful. That gun seems to work very nicely (of course it takes a knowledgeable hand to wield it). I know you state you have a box fan for ventilation but I can see that the garage fills up with mist pretty heavily. I would really recommend some kind of disposable suit when doing this as your skin absorbs all that toxic mist pretty easily. Puts quite a strain on the ol' liver. Don't want to see your life shortened.
Thanks - I really should have a window or vent on the other end of the garage for flow through - maybe a louvered vent or something. Thank you for your concern - I'll look into some protective clothing :)
@@LakesideAutobody .......so it's been a year, are you still painting in your underwear 🤣.
Seriously, this juice is nasty in the pours.
BTW, nice work👍
@@David-uu1oj Actually no. I'm using 3M disposable coveralls. It was hot as 🔥that day :)
And surely you need an air fed mask to spray that safely. I dont believe the respirators properly filter out the isocyanates which I think are present in that paint.
@@gracht24 You can use this - 3M 07193 Dual Cartridge Respirator Assembly Organic Vapor - the reason they push fresh air is because folks rarely change out their masks i.e. keep using the same one for years. Heck for $26, you can get a new one for every paint job.
looks good. spray on 2 tone tomorrow, white top and chestnut body. original....i have the 2hp craftsman, but i am going to use a 6.5 hp craftsman as the cfm on it is 15 vs 5. hopefully last question, what is air pressure on painting and mist? using a spectrum 1.3 tip and 9cfm gun. and if i paint top first, how long to dry enough to cover in plastic with no tape to shield from painting body.
thank you so much for help.
Sorry about the late reply. The air pressure on the mist or drop coat is about 5 psi more that you were using. Back up a bit and crop dust it if you have a bit of mottling or blotchy spots. Don't worry about spraying the base coat on the dry side to eliminate tiger stipes and mottling. The clear will still lay flat if you lay it on wet. Hope that helps - let me know how it goes for you my friend :)
@@LakesideAutobody I am shooting Nason Fulthane single stage, thanks to your video, the painting today was perfect.! I am very happy with results, painted 7 hours ago, just the roof, as it is a different color.
and still has wet look I wanted. I am going to wait 5 days to paint body, as we have a week of crappy weather, I am painting in a 3 car garage with open sides that I have plastic sides up, using a torpedo heater, so far so good... the real test is the body , as I have never painted metalic before, this video sure helps, thanks again, I will apply your tips.
@@mightybeeb You're welcome my friend. That's great to hear. Nothing like fresh shiny paint :) Let me know how the rest of it goes for you.
This is great!! I just bought single stage acrylic urethane metallic paint from tcp global and found your video. I plan to watch the video a few times to get your sequence down. This gives me some confidence, Thanks!
Try it on a metal coffee can first - that will give you the feel for it. Every paint is different so you'll want to get used to it of get familiar with it so you don't run it or spray it too dry :)
@@LakesideAutobody In reading your material list and some answers below, I see you used a reducer. I have the exact same TCP Global same paint kit, but british racing green. It comes with the hardener, and I'm wondering if I should get some reducer as well ? I live in Encanto/National City temp wise.
Just found your site and really enjoy watching you work. Wish I lived in your area I have a 1937 chevy 2 Dr SD street rod that needs a fresh paint job. I have been considering calling the mobile glass blaster to take it down to bare metal and doing it myself. Instead of the 16,000 $ the paint shop quoted
I wished you lived near me too - I need some car guys around me! You can do this yourself and you found the right channel to help you with that. Feel free to ask any ?s you need to as you go along - I get to them 1-2 times a day. Jerry
Awesome looking car, the owner must very pleased.
Thank you - that year mustang is not a bad car. Rear wheel drive, it could last a long long time :)
THAT CAME OUT BEAUTIFUL
Glad you liked it - Never had a mustang but that car drives pretty nice - good quality little car with some good gas mileage.
I never thought much about them myself. But, you made it look perfect.
Great job for a single stage love your channel
Thanks - glad you enjoy the channel :)
You have the "Magic Touch" with paint. Metallic single stage is prone to runs and dirt if you don't filter it. Nice job!
Thanks - have a good week end :)
Gotta say man, looks pretty snazzy!!! Great job. I have this exact car... It's a 01 they are starting to show their age and mine is no different it needs a paint job... Mine is white thinking of staying with the white.
White is a great color for sports cars - really makes the wheels stand out :)
Love these garage jobs! Good work!!!!
Glad you like them - thanks :)
Great job collectively I love your style and dedication to your work and producing videos , great job my friend you got my vote , take care and thank you
Thanks so much - I appreciate that. Its good to hear that you like the style and the videos. Take care of yourself too and you're welcome BTW :)
the Mustang came out real nice Jerry!
Thank's - have a good week :)
Looks very good for a single stage urethane. I finally got the rest of my welding equipment fixing to do rust repair on both my Integras and get them painted before fall gets here. Thanks for all your helpful videos.
You're welcome - hope they help you out :)
DAMN, that stuff shines like two-stage!
It's pretty nice paint. The truth is... nothing shined like the 1980's Dupont Centari single stage enamel with hardener - it would lay down flat as glass and even flatter after you left the spray booth or garage - it would keep leveling even after you sprayed. Awesome paint!
I go with extra reducer high pressure wet coats all passes.
what is mist coat? do you add more reducer to make it wetter?
You can add more reducer to make it wetter for sure. The mist coat is a coat that is sprayed like dusting crops..... you want to sort of make sure your metallic flakes are distributed evenly. Here's a video on that - ruclips.net/video/yGCpM6Cwhb0/видео.html
do you have a vid on your paint booth setup ? aeration , filtration, compressor setup etc?
Here's one on water removal - I keep it real simple - ruclips.net/video/CSGAgAyeInA/видео.html Here's one on compressors used - again nothing special - ruclips.net/video/53miAObOdVY/видео.html Finally - no booth - you actually don't need one - just a box fan to pull fumes out. All of the dust you get in a paint job is already on the panel before the first coat - here's a vid on that - ruclips.net/video/VNrIwVMxjI0/видео.html Some tricks for zero dust are shown :)
This video gave me an idea. I just sanded the hood down on my 02 f150 supercrew that is E4 red. Several areas of the hood where I went down to bare metal I sprayed grey primer. After looking at that mustang I might just paint that hood with black primer and see how that works and delay painting it back to red. That might look super
Let me know how it goes - how it looks Earl :)
@@LakesideAutobody I have seen that scheme on some ford f150s that have that 97 to 03 body style and some even came with the black center grill and they had a sports name and Ive seen some with flat black hoods with regular colors on doors and fenders, so it does exist. BTW, I did subscribe to your channel and yours is the first when it comes to auto paints and repair and painting and mixture. Youre a person I could easily work with
Truly fun to watch thanks again for your time and dedication to help others.
You're welcome my friend - glad you liked it :)
Clean paint job wow 👌🏽
Thanks 👍
Wish i would've seen this video before i painted my car with single stage.my car don't want to keep a shine.mix ratio was rite compressor was set rite but i don't know.thanks for the great video definitely gonna subscribe.
Thanks - glad it helped :)
Wow great job!, I’m definitely going to look into this paint!. I don’t want to mess up again with cheap enamel paint from tractor suppy
I bought the extra gallon of reducer. I think it needs to be thinned more than the instructions say. I have the mix ration I used in the description. Thanks and have a good weekend :)
You are an artist WOW!
Thanks - glad you like it. Have a good weekend :)
another timely video I have only used TCP GLOBAL SINGLE-STAGE PAINT in the past I switched over to NASON URETHANE-both gave me good results; I was told that the TCP line of paints is formulated by PPG- SHOP LINE OR OMNI? Doesn,t matter to me the paint works good; and it's affordable /great for D.I.Y.ers thank again PATRICK.P
Sound like that may be true because it really reminded me of the old Dupont Centari or PPG Ditzler Delstar whatever their enamel was in the 80's. Sprayed the same. I love Nason too but they wanted $466 for just the paint (gallon).
@@LakesideAutobody Always nice to hear from you; stay safe PATRICK.P
Lakeside Autobody Gosh I haven’t heard Centari in so long.
Great job.
I appreciate the support Kenneth - have a good weekend :)
Amazing job Jerry great info thanks for all your neat tips and tricks ian one of your subs from over seas
Thanks 👍 Glad you enjoy the videos - hope everything is great over seas for you :)
Question: What are the advantages of a single stage urethane?
Same durability & don't have to buy two products. Just a gallon of paint paint's the car :)
@@LakesideAutobody That's what I am going to do then, thank you!
Awesome video what was your pressure before the drop coat and how much did you turn it up? Thanks
Right around 25 psi then boosted it up about 3-4 psi. Some like to lower the pressure but I like to crop dust it 🤪
Car came out awesome nice work 👌
Thanks 👍
WOW.......looks great. Where do you get the sealer?
I buy that on Amazon or Ebay - ACDelco GM Original Equipment 10-2013 Body Joint and Seam Filler Compound - 10.1 oz I like it a lot - dries fast, white, paintable, flexible :)
Beautiful work
Thanks - have a great weekend :)
Beautiful job thank you for sharing
You're welcome Bill - have a good week :)
That's a beautiful paint job 👍
Thanks my friend - have a good weekend :)
Nice work, I just saw yr video and I was interested in getting a spray gun like yours, unfortunately they don’t make that model anymore. I’m new to painting, Is there a spray gun that does the same job that you can recommend?
Thanks again!
You can't go wrong with a Sharpe FX3000 HVLP Spray Gun 1.4mm tip. If you are looking for something cheaper - the purple spray gun from Harbor Freight works great along the Black Widow spray gun from HF. One more that can be purchased at Home Depot is the Cambell Hausfeld HVLP Gravity Feed (DH790000AV) very good all around spray gun.
Looks good. I like that type of paint..looks like less work. Great video as usual....
Yep one and done - good enough for a driver. 1st time I tried this paint and I really like it - it's hard and durable with a very nice shine.
Is the process the same for a satin metallic? I am going to be spraying TCP Global Custom Coat - Gunmetal Gray Metallic Satin on my 1979 F250 in the near future. I am almost done with bodywork but haven't blocked or primed yet.
Also, what is the most efficient method for filling rust pitting? I had to hit the roof and bedsides down to bare metal with an angle grinder with a wire wheel to get the rust out. I have gotten most of my bondo and dent pulling done, and all metal patches on. This truck has very light pitting on the hood, roof, and bedside tops I have yet to completely fill.
Thanks.
Same process for color you bought - as long as it is the single stage paint. For filling rust pitting, just sand blast it out or at least do your best grinding it out or wire brushing it out - you can use rust converter but not necessary if you blast it. Then just fill with body filler, sand , prime, block, etc. Basically, blast, fill, prime, paint.
Great job brother, especially with that mist coat it's so important with metallics,I did show quality testis for 20 years and that mist coat done properly can't really make or break the lay of the metallic.Thumbs up even though it's a Stang,lol,I do Mostly Mopars and tons of rotten and butchers Camaros.Good videos.,no Basing around or trying to be a personality,
I love Mopars - At heart I'm a Chrysler guy - Nothing meaner than early seventies MOPAR :)
Firstly, thank you so much for your videos. They are so helpful. I noticed 3 parts of reducer. Is that the trick to this paint to ensure it’s nice and flat? I also noticed you’re pretty far away with the gun. It that to avoid runs? Thanks again
This paint is a bit on the thick side so yes, reducer is a must. Use what you are comfortable with though. As for the gun and distance. I grew up with older guns - they had smaller patterns than today. Again use the pattern you are comfortable with. Wide or medium width - they both work fine. I move fast so a smaller pattern works better for me thus the distance away from the panel. Pattern really doesn't have much to do with how well your paint job turns out. That's all internet, TV, magazine stuff. Heck, I've seen really nice paint jobs using a spray bomb cans - not a very wide pattern there at all ✌
Fantastic! 2 questions.
Would wet sanding the primer before paint benefit anything or just spray color after primer dries?
For this type of single stage paint can you cut and buff afterwards if you wanted?
Turned out looking great!
The benefit of wet sanding your primer before paint is a smooth surface to paint over, excellent adhesion (paint), you can catch any last imperfections. You can cut and buff single stage solid colors and metallics :)
Awesome paint job! Love the color and the car. But if I may ask, what is the difference between a "wet" coat and a "dry" coat and how do you achieve each? Appreciate any thoughts and thanks for the video. Great job.
To put it simply, your last coat is going to be the wettest. You want to put that coat on as wet as possible w/o running it. You can spray wetter on the hood, rood and deck lid but be careful on side panels and around body lines - paint can gather and sag :)
Really nice! I will be using Firemist Red Acrylic Urethane for my Harley Davidson. From Amazon. Thanks for the tips. Awesome looking Mustang.
Thanks and you're welcome - have a good weekend :)
12:28 you said you used a mist coat to even out the metallic flakes. What does that mean. What is the mist coat?
Here's a decent example of a mist coat: ruclips.net/video/yGCpM6Cwhb0/видео.html Basically on the last coat as it is tacking up go around one more time giving it somewhat of a dusting. The paint will "melt" in and stay shiny but the flakes will be nice and even.
The car looks awesome. I just painted my truck cab and had a lot of orange peel. (My air pressure was too low and I didn’t reduce the paint). So I am wet sanding with 1500 grit as seen in your video. Could I clear coat now? Or just cut and buff? This is single stage copper pearl. I put 3coats on but just worried about thickness after sanding. Thanks Paul
As long as you haven't sanded through you should be OK. Try a small section and see if you like the look. I wet sanded and buffed the truck lid on this car because of a bug in the paint - you can check it out at the end of the video - it won't mess with the metallic as long as you don't go crazy sanding :)
When shooting the whole car with metallic urethane is it better to have the doors, hood, and trunk on or off the car? Also how much overlap do you use on each step?
Thank you
In my opinion, it's always best to have it all put together - you know stuff can happen when assembling and it's always a bummer scratch that nice new paint. Over lap is about 50% - the amount of overlap doesn't really matter - just make sure it looks even as you are spraying. You have to see the paint going on so put some lights on the wall (like a spray booth) to see the light reflection in the paint) Feel free to ask more ?s if needed :)
@@LakesideAutobody thank you so much. I live in north Texas so my temperature can range form 70 to 110. More than likely I will try and paint my car in the 80s to 90s. I don’t really have to deal with that much humidity. Do you recommend a medium or slow reducer from TCP Global?
@@heathhenderson7217 I've always used medium but live in Michigan. You'd probably do better with slow as it will give you more time to get around the car and not have a dry area where you started and finished. I always go around twice on the last coat to remedy that anyway - the last time around is to make sure you have it nice and wet. One more thing... You'll mix your paint like 4:1 paint to activator then reduce however much you want. I usually reduce to a final mixture of 4 parts paint - 1 part hardener - around 2 parts reducer - even more if you need it to flow more :)
You got all the luck. I plan to spray my 17 foot long dodge charger a similar red, and can't imagine painting single sections rather than walking the whole length of the car. Streaks, thin spots, mottling, and overspray...I would love to spray like you did and get the same result..good show!
Just copy exactly what I did in the video. Check out the description for the mix ratio and other stuff that may help. There will always be problems - that you just have to accept. Wish I could be there to help :) Ask all the ?'s you want - I'll answer them. Jerry
I sprayed buses that way. single stage 40 footers.....just like he did in video, 17 feet doesn't matter, but i did use a 50 ft hose
Watching from the sunny Cayman islands shout out from the 345
Wow - cool! or maybe not cool. It's probably very hot there :)
@@LakesideAutobody yes sir very hot we have hot and hotter
What do you think about southern polyurethane for clear and base?
Not sure where but I've heard good things about that company and their products. Haven't used them but I'm sure it's good stuff. I haven't run into too many brands that are absolutely a no go.
@@LakesideAutobody good to know. What you think is the cheapest base, clear, sealer, and primer that lasts decently? I have a truck I'm repainting OEM colors but selling it after. Trying to make as much as possible without ruining the paint job for someone.
The video and comments together are the best instructions I have seen on how to spray single stage metallic. Thank you. I am planning to spray for the first time an 85 Corvette with single stage metallic and appreciate the effort in putting the video together and in answering the questions in the comments.
The question I have is how to best prep the fiberglass on this car. I have chemically stripped and then sanded in progression 80, 150, and 220 grit. There is now a mix of the original black sealer coat and some white gel coat showing. When passing my hand over the panels, they feel straight with the exception of 3 or 4 places where the sander may have caught an edge and dug a little too deep. I am inclined to spray 3-4 coats of 2K primer then block sand it. Do you think this is the best approach or would you skip the 2K and just use a single part sealer?
You've got it right with the urethane primer surfacer. After it dries, give it a dusting of black spray bomb paint as a guide coat and block sand. This video may help - it is also on a fiberglass hood - ruclips.net/video/Phd8cvKmapo/видео.html Glad you liked the video my friend - let me know if you have any more ?s - Jerry
@@LakesideAutobody In that video you use quite a lot of reducer but you are spraying over some primer that has already been applied. If I wanted to err on the side of filling more scratches and low spots would I use maybe only one part or even no reducer or is it better to use more reducer and more coats?
@@paulpainter3065 The problem when painting an entire car is trying to keep the paint wet enough so that it lays out flat - little to no orange peel. With thicker paint you'll battle the orange peel a bit but yes, it will hide more imperfections. It's up to you how much reducer you use - maybe try a a few test panels - or metal coffee cans to practice on - see how your mix is :)
Project completed and decent results for first time painting. My son did the spraying since it is his car. We copied your method almost exactly. Here is the link to the results. drive.google.com/drive/folders/1rfyDOJkGTmMBi2DsDhFhwrrARK6WcCYj?usp=sharing Thanks again.
@@paulpainter3065 Wow! That looks great - your son did a fine job. If you want you can upload some pictures to the Lakeside Autobody Discord. I'm sure other folks would love to see that - discord.com/invite/Qm6qJgcubu Again - great job and your car looks really nice.
Hola estimado!.Saludos desde Argentina.
Exelente trabajo!!!Lo felicito 👏👏👍
Quedo hermoso el Mustang, de exposición!!!!
Saludos y exitos!!
Hola de michigan Me alegra que te haya gustado el trabajo de pintura. Que tengas un buen fin de semana :)
Man....you made me nervous with your shirt. LOL My luck I'd get it in the paint. Looks good I have only ever painted one car with base coat and clear coat. Dupont Centari and Nelson used to easy to buy at the parts store and look good.
Dupont makes great paint as well as PPG. I saw that too with my shirt - it's a real bummer dragging something across fresh paint. Gotta wait till it drys - wet sand and try again.
Thanks for the video. I have a 1982 GMC truck with a rootbeer metal flake single stage from the factory. I have done some touch ups on the truck, but by the time I buff out the paint the metal flake is muted and the paint just looks brown. I bought the paint from a local paint store that supplies all the local body shops and they used the original paint codes. After painting how do I finish the job? Should I be sanding or buffing? Any help would be appreciated.
In the 70's, 80's, etc there was just single stage metallic paint - lacquer or enamel and we sanded and buffed both with out a problem. I suppose the key is to spray it well enough to just have to lightly sand out the nibs, any dust/dirt, and light orange peel. Don't want to sand to deep and have and effect on the metallic flakes. After lightly sanding with 1000 or finer buff and you'll be fine. I wet sanded and buffed the deck lid on this car - you can see the results at the end of the video :)
@@LakesideAutobody Thanks! I noticed that you used a sealer over the top of the primer and old paint. The sealer was also darker than the primer. I only used primer. It was a very light grey and was a real you-know-what to cover. I blew through a lot of paint. Maybe that made the paint too dark and messed me up? How big a role does the color of the sealer make in the final look of the paint? What should I have used instead, something darker seems to make sense. OEM Code for paint is: 68, WAEM7481, WA7481. Any hints on a spray gun, nozzle size for shooting metallic? I don't do this for a living so I'm looking for something $200 or lower. Btw, I have watched several of your other videos since this first one. Very helpful!
@@femorous The reason guys use sealer is to avoid what you are talking about. Sealer (no matter what color really) gets it all one color so you are not fooled while painting - thinking, "is this lighter?" or "is this darker?" etc. They do make different color sealers but I never saw the need. Heck if I'm doing a white car I'll give it one light coat of regular primer (light grey) to act as a sealer and help me get it covered faster. If you painting a dark color, use the regular dark sealer. Sealer really doesn't have a huge effect on the overall coverage as your paint should really cover in about 2-3 coats. A decent brand paint will cover in 2-3 coats. Hope that all helps a bit :)
@@LakesideAutobody Great help! I looked closely at the hood and noticed that under the 40 year old original paint the sealer was indeed black, not grey or white. I bought some black sealer and plan to give it a go in a week. Thanks again.
@@femorous Feel free to ask all the ?s you need before the big day 😊
WOA!! That looks great!!
Thanks - it's a good color - Fire Red Pearl from TCP Global - came pretty close to the Ford color
Beautiful! What gun and what size compressor are you using?
Here's a vid on the compressor and I'm using an old gravity fed Matco RL80 1.4mm tip - I think some of that info is in the description :)
That paint looks so smooth, do you buff it out or wet sand and buff? I’m still on the fence about a single stage paint or a base/clear
Single stage metallic is sort of hard to spray. You can get mottled, blotchy looking paint because of the way metallic flakes behave when too wet. With BC/CC you can spray your base somewhat dry which is perfect for metallic flake distribution and then get it nice and wet with the clear. On this job and other SS metallic paint you'll want to use a mist or drop coat on your last time around the car to make sure the metallic is "right". Here's a video on that technique - ruclips.net/video/yGCpM6Cwhb0/видео.html even though this was basecoat , the same applies to single stage (SS) Basically BC/CC is easier than SS when it comes to metallic paint. If you are spraying a solid color - go with SS :)
What is the right fan spray parttern ? 6 inches or 8 inches ?
Doesn't matter - as long as your paint is going on even and wet. So folks have the fan wide open some close it up a bit. Some spray from further away some closer. Think of a spray bomb can - super tight pattern and no pressure but you can still get a great paint job with them if you lay it down even and wet. Hope that helps :)
@@LakesideAutobody thanks i really appreciate your advice 👍
@@vicshonebethel9934 You're welcome :)
Awesome results, I'm getting trouble with that single stage metallic also from TCP global, Im getting heavy orange peel, is because the wrong reducer or should I thin a bit more? Moving faster avoid orange peel? If not metallic the dust coat is also necessary?, Thanks in advance
If you are getting orange peel there are a few cures: 1) make sure your gun is clean - should be spraying the most paint possible 2) use more reducer - TCP was thick I reduced it almost 1 part paint to 1 part reducer. 3) Use a slower reducer - paint will flow a bit better 4) get it wetter. If you're spraying solid colors (no metallic flakes), there's no need for a drop/dust coat. Let me know how it goes :)
Lakeside Autobody what does the drop/dust mean? Do you spray with different adjustments or anything like this?
quick question, I am using a 2k primer on an old 63 tbird. should I hit it with a 4:1 mix and then a 4:1:2 mix on primer? do I wait for the 4:1 to dry then sand and then apply it as a sealer? if so, how long is dry time before i sand. and how long before i can paint color? or......do i just do it as a 4:1.....sand and shoot paint?
All of those are correct :) Joking aside, you can do what you feel will work best for the situation - there are tons of combinations. I usually spray my primer thick for the blocking coat. Then I spray it thinner for the finish sanding coat. If I have bare spots left just before painting you can hit those with some spray bomb primer or thin spray gun primer or sealer. You're always going to do the 4:1 but reduce/thin it to the specific need at the time. Let me know if that helps - if not ask again :)
@@LakesideAutobody yes thanks.....so, spray thick let dry ,sand, then spray with reducer in mix, or just spray thick, then spray over it reduced then sand? I want to do it with less days working. Ideally I want to spray primer friday and paint car saturday......do I really need to use reducer? is sealing important? or can i just spray it thick, sand and be on with it........sorry I am complicating it
@@mightybeeb Here's the fastest way. Spray your primer so that it comes out of the gun and lays somewhat flat. You want it as thick as you can but have it lay down sort of smooth and spray nicely. Next day.... DA sand that guy with 220 or 240 and paint it. It's not going to be super straight but its fast and you've got it painted. We did that plenty of times at work like if we needed to get a job out immediately. Prime it, buzz it down, paint it, done :)
@@LakesideAutobody thank you
Did you use the acrylic laquer primer surfacer too?
Yes. Remember, that's all they used for about 100 years. Epoxy & Urethane didn't really get big until mid 90's
Excellent job, looks great, the work of a true professional.👍🏻
Thanks 👍
I know this is an older vid but I just found your channel about a week ago. That looks really nice. Wish you were about 800mls closer. I"d love for you to paint my 88 Bronco. What do you charge for a single stage job?
I actually just work on cars from COPART or flip rust buckets. I can only work on my own stuff as this is a country but residential neighborhood. Prices are all over the map but I'd estimate prices range anywhere from $1500 and up mostly because of material costs.
Looks great we’re those last clips with a cut and buff? Or did you not do that
Yes the las clips of the deck lid was a cut a buff because I had a bug crawling in the paint. Just wanted to show you could sand and buff single stage metallic paint - you'll often hear that you can't because you'll mess up the flakes or look of the paint :)
@@LakesideAutobody thanks! I plan on using single stage on the work truck
@@casiokids91 Single stage works just fine - good luck and let me know how it goes for you :)
well, the car sprayed out nice and even but there must have been some contamination. as i have some spots that fisheyes, more like lines, ugly, how can i fix that? just a few spots. I thought i did everything right in prep. never happened to me before, some of the lines are an inch long. do i sand then touch up with brush? or will the spots still come through? i think if i sand and respray i will have same result in those areas?
First of all don't feel bad. I was thinking the other day how most jobs don't turn out absolutely perfect and to try and be happy with good enough. That being said, you may have had something come out of the air lines or something. Usually when it's a line it means there was something on the rag/rags used when wiping it down just before painting. I often use paper towels, then blow off any dust using my bare hand, then use a tack cloth. I don't get fish eyes even though I use a bare hand - pretty dry hands i guess. The way to fix it is to wet sand and buff. If that isn't going to do it, you'll have to wet sand and spray again - maybe just the individual panel. It won't happen again if you sand that spot and wipe clean with wax and grease remover - use a paper towel or cloth meant for auto body. Keep me posted on your progress :)
I sanded down to primer in 4 areas, and some spots it came off quick and i have bare metal, sux....do i have to reseal that spot with primer again? then spray? how long of a window do i have to respray if i just lightly sand with 2000 and then degrease? just sprayed the car at noon today, sanded at 7pm. I may hit most of the car with 1 more coat, how long do i have? would like to get it done tomorrow. i know i am a pain in the ass, lol
@@LakesideAutobody
reshot it today, looks great, all issues fixed, thanks again for all the advise
@@mightybeeb That's great to hear. Glad to hear it turned out good for you. Have a good weekend my friend :)
@@LakesideAutobody thank you so much, i have 1 small area that is dull from missing a wet coat or a little overspray on final coat. how would you address this area is like 5 inches by 3 inches on upper trunk corner near rear window on side, can overspray be buffed in that area? clay bar? would rather not repaint as i am out of material. hoping it will buff out
I have 3-4 good coats in that area, it is single stage urethane metalic
I am still trying to get past your paint suite, haha. great job
Thanks - glad you enjoyed it :)
Nice work. She came out nice. Thanks for sharing your skills and knowledge. I've been looking at the Restoration Shop paints. They have a lot of color options. Keep up the good work. Thanks again.
Thanks 👍 and you're welcome - have a good weekend :)
These videos are a gold mine of practical "how-to's" from a master. Okay. What kind of sealer do you use and can I spray acrylic lacquer over it? Also, on the mist coat of the acrylic enamel, do you add in extra reducer to over-thin it? If not, I don't understand the purpose of the mist coat after a super-wet coat.
About the bugs, here in west TN this time of year they would be crawling all through it! Can hardly get lacquer laid down and still have to sand them out. Thank you again for all these fantastic videos!
The sealer is Auto Body Master Sealer Gray SG1 from Auto Value autoparts store $48/gal. Yes, you can spray lacquer over it. On the mist coat, your right, I usually spray it a little thinner to help it melt in nicely. The mist coat is only to distribute the metallic flakes evenly so that there is no mottling - like throwing a handful of grass seed up in the air to spread it evenly. On bugs - paint during the day and pick those suckers out as soon as they land in it (eye brow tweezers) - give it a heavy shot of paint to flatten his tracks out. Worst case - you might have to wet sand the spot and buff. Here's on older vid on bugs in the paint it may help you out a bit - Hope I answered you ?s - Jerry
@@LakesideAutobody thank you so much! Inspirational and a great teacher! Why can't things be more like this nowadays?