1987.. only year they made it like that...(from what I have been told) Got one just like it. The fuel pump burned up on mine. Honda pump was still available, but obviously made of pure GOLD!!! If you need a pump, NAPA has a 12v low pressure (2-3psi?) Was very inexpensive. BTW. Saw you at Alberta Ranch.. Hitting the red button 👍😎
We had the same problem with our 1987 trx350 4X4 followed all of the trouble shooting info, cleaned all connections, checked grounds, replaced fuel pump, fuel pump relay, couldn't find a replacement CDI so found a comment in this forum that suggested to put the CDI in the oven and heat it up. No oven available so used a hair dryer and heated it for about 45 minutes, let it cool and reinstalled it and by our surprise it started right up quicker than it ever has, and still working the past few weeks. We did finally find a factory replacement unit thats available.
Here is some other items involved that I found in my own research, The CDI also is part of the fuel pump relay, it provides an electrical signal pulse to the fuel pump that work in conjunction with engine speed aka fuel demand. And an alternate test was to heat it up in the oven low temp for about 30 min or use a hair dryer like I did for 30 min. I reinstalled it and our 1987 Honda 350 fourtrax ran several time with out a problem for almost 2 months. Then it fell on its face again. so after doing all the other functional check prior and changing the easiest stuff first, it is now narrowed down to the Stator which is a bigger tear down to remove it, and looks to run around $245.00. I will look for obvious thing like broken wire or solder joint first before buying a new or used one.
Forgot this item to check and that is the Pulse Generator which is under the same cover on the left engine side where the stator is located Check the resistance 50 to 200 ohms. if not between those values its no good.
I am getting .04 volts at the fuel pump connection, I replaced the relay also, didn't change anything. I hotwired the pump to 12v right from another battery, it pumps fuel when I did that, I guess I should learn how to jump the relay and see if it goes, I just don't understand only getting .04v unless I'm doing something wrong.
@@jonathantarrant2449 just at the pump, I didn't check CDI, the pump doesnt even prime when I turn on the ignition, when its done priming thats my signal to hit the start, doesnt even try to pump, if it could still be the CDI Ill check that tomorrow, is that low a voltage normal? if its supposed to be 12v, which I would think it would be, that would tell me something else is going on, right? or would that be the CDI?
dandufour01 by pass the relay to energize the pump as a test. If it is then blowing fuse check the amp draw on pump to see if it over drawing all the time or intermittently. It will draw more amp when the pressure goes up. If the fuse blows immediately or after some running time should be noted. Immediately can usually mean a short to ground or very high pump amp draw.
I have got no spark or fuel pump working. What do you think that is? It was parked uncovered in heavy rain and strong winds and was working but now it's not. I cut the wires from the on/off switch on the handle bar thinking it is wet or corroded but still no good. I'm now thinking of using the wires that were put in for the winch to power the coil and pump directly with a fuse and switch to see if that works. Do you think that will work?
Have you tested the cdi, it controls the spark plug firing and there is a signal from the cdi to the relay for fuel pump timing. Google cdi test, and there will be a step by step check using an dvm meter. Or if you wanted pull off and take to dealer to check. Or it might be cheap enough just to replace it, up to you.
@@rastamanralph6670 you wont be able to bypass the cdi, it has several functions. It will have to be replaced if defective. You can use any relay for the fuel pump relay, you will just lose some of the protections. I personally wouldnt bypass, except maybe to test only for a very short period of time. Like you wanted to prove the fuelpump motor still spins freely and pumps fuel
1987.. only year they made it like that...(from what I have been told)
Got one just like it. The fuel pump burned up on mine. Honda pump was still available, but obviously made of pure GOLD!!!
If you need a pump, NAPA has a 12v low pressure (2-3psi?)
Was very inexpensive.
BTW. Saw you at Alberta Ranch..
Hitting the red button 👍😎
We had the same problem with our 1987 trx350 4X4 followed all of the trouble shooting info, cleaned all connections, checked grounds, replaced fuel pump, fuel pump relay, couldn't find a replacement CDI so found a comment in this forum that suggested to put the CDI in the oven and heat it up. No oven available so used a hair dryer and heated it for about 45 minutes, let it cool and reinstalled it and by our surprise it started right up quicker than it ever has, and still working the past few weeks. We did finally find a factory replacement unit thats available.
I got the power off the accessory on the handle bars. Just plugged in a spade connector an installed a fuse to the blue black power wire.
Here is some other items involved that I found in my own research, The CDI also is part of the fuel pump relay, it provides an electrical signal pulse to the fuel pump that work in conjunction with engine speed aka fuel demand. And an alternate test was to heat it up in the oven low temp for about 30 min or use a hair dryer like I did for 30 min. I reinstalled it and our 1987 Honda 350 fourtrax ran several time with out a problem for almost 2 months. Then it fell on its face again. so after doing all the other functional check prior and changing the easiest stuff first, it is now narrowed down to the Stator which is a bigger tear down to remove it, and looks to run around $245.00. I will look for obvious thing like broken wire or solder joint first before buying a new or used one.
Forgot this item to check and that is the Pulse Generator which is under the same cover on the left engine side where the stator is located Check the resistance 50 to 200 ohms. if not between those values its no good.
Other than roll over safety issues any 12 volt relay would work. Pump is pressure regulated for shut off.
So does anybody know the actual outcome of this cuz I have the same issue and I was about to hardwire ago two-way switch
I am getting .04 volts at the fuel pump connection, I replaced the relay also, didn't change anything. I hotwired the pump to 12v right from another battery, it pumps fuel when I did that, I guess I should learn how to jump the relay and see if it goes, I just don't understand only getting .04v unless I'm doing something wrong.
Did you check the cdi, it controls the fuel pump timing, or did you check at the pump?
@@jonathantarrant2449 just at the pump, I didn't check CDI, the pump doesnt even prime when I turn on the ignition, when its done priming thats my signal to hit the start, doesnt even try to pump, if it could still be the CDI Ill check that tomorrow, is that low a voltage normal? if its supposed to be 12v, which I would think it would be, that would tell me something else is going on, right? or would that be the CDI?
@@Enyaw58 its been a number of years, since l worked on it but lm pretty sure it 12volts
Have you found a replacement for that relay?
My 89 keeps blowing the fuel pump fuse and I suspect the pump or the relay.
dandufour01 by pass the relay to energize the pump as a test. If it is then blowing fuse check the amp draw on pump to see if it over drawing all the time or intermittently. It will draw more amp when the pressure goes up. If the fuse blows immediately or after some running time should be noted. Immediately can usually mean a short to ground or very high pump amp draw.
I'm having problems like this sort of on mine
I wish my Rancher 420 had rear disc brakes
They are drum breaks, all Honda atv has drum breaks for straight axel. Irs had disk
I have got no spark or fuel pump working. What do you think that is? It was parked uncovered in heavy rain and strong winds and was working but now it's not. I cut the wires from the on/off switch on the handle bar thinking it is wet or corroded but still no good. I'm now thinking of using the wires that were put in for the winch to power the coil and pump directly with a fuse and switch to see if that works. Do you think that will work?
Have you tested the cdi, it controls the spark plug firing and there is a signal from the cdi to the relay for fuel pump timing. Google cdi test, and there will be a step by step check using an dvm meter. Or if you wanted pull off and take to dealer to check. Or it might be cheap enough just to replace it, up to you.
@@jonathantarrant2449 cheers for the quick reply👍 I will get a meter and check the cdi. Do you think bypassing them will work also?
@@rastamanralph6670 you wont be able to bypass the cdi, it has several functions. It will have to be replaced if defective. You can use any relay for the fuel pump relay, you will just lose some of the protections. I personally wouldnt bypass, except maybe to test only for a very short period of time. Like you wanted to prove the fuelpump motor still spins freely and pumps fuel
Ok. I was thinking maybe water got into the connections of the cdi or the relay now so will check them next.👍
@@rastamanralph6670. I assume you have checked the battery for proper voltage etc
I got a new fuel pump relay fuel pump is brand new and I still have no power to the fuel pump it will not kick on
When u turn on the trx 350d does the fan come on and run while the bike is on
It does now because l re did the wiring for it afew years ago, from factory NO, it temp controlled
Is it ok to run fuel pump straight from another battery
If you fused it somehow, l think temporarily it would be ok for a few minutes to test it
That’s a cdi it controls spark