Thank you so much for posting the video. I found it very helpful although I would like to pick your brain about an issue I am having with my 2012 chevy malibu that none of the videos cover. I bought it early March and after about 10 days of driving, it wouldn't start one morning. I did some research, figured out it was the fuel pump relay (or so I thought). I replaced it and it started up just fine. 2 days later, it wouldn't start again. I replaced the fuel pump relay again, and it started up just fine. Until about 4 days later when it wouldn't start again. This time I was sure that the relay couldn't be bad again so I pulled the fuse box out and inspected the wiring. I didn't see anything or feel any heat so I tried starting it and it started perfectly. At this point I was confused but it drove fine for a few days until it wouldnt start again. Now everytime it doesn't start, I simply lift the bundle of wires up or wiggle them around and the car will start for me but only lasts a couple of days before needing to be moved again. I have watched dozens of youtube videos and talked to a few people about this and they seem puzzled so I will take any and all advice!
Hi Chelsey, It seems like you have a loose or faulty electrical connection related to the fuel pump relay circuit. The intermittent starting issue and the fact that wiggling the wires temporarily resolves the problem points to a wiring issue. Possible causes could be a damaged wire, corroded connector, or a loose connection in the fuse box or at the fuel pump itself. To resolve this, you'll need to trace the fuel pump relay wiring and carefully inspect all connections for damage or corrosion
Hello thankyou for the vid. I have a direct injection engine and have noticed when i turn off the car. The fuel injectors are randomly spraying every 5 mins for about half an hour. The car then finally goes to sleep. Can a faulty relay be the cause of this? Regards
Hi, A faulty relay is unlikely to cause the fuel injectors to spray intermittently after shutting off the engine. This behavior is more likely related to a problem with the direct injection system, such as a faulty high-pressure fuel pump, leaking injectors, or issues with the control module. Let me know if you found the cause
Might a failing relay be related to the fuel gauge not working? I have already replaced the fuel level sending arm, but the gauge is stuck at below empty. Occasionally, it will read correctly, but it lasts just a few minutes before it goes to reading empty. Any ideas? Thanks.
@@JosephWilliams-r2m I have checked the fuse and even replaced it, and confirmed that it can't be that because on occasion the gauge will work for a few minutes or even a day. I think it is wiring or the instrument cluster.
I would like input or advice... I have a 1990 Ford F150 duel tank (manual) and it been having trouble starting, idling and the check engine light is on. It also pushed fuel from the front tank to the rear tank, then overflows the rear tank. Assumed it was the fuel pump malfunctioning. Took it to a mechanic who is familiar with Fords (and older models) and after extensive diagnostic said it wasnt the fuel pump (they work fine) and eventually told me it needs a new PCM. After watching this video, I wonder if it could be something as simple as the fuel relays (as both problems present the same symptoms). Id like to safely assume the mechanic checked the fuel relays (but you never know). Its going to cost me about a grand to get a rebuilt PCM and after hearing from several mechanic sources that its hardly (if ever) a bad PCM, Id like to avoid spending 1k (on such an old truck) only to find out later it was something simple like the fuel relays. Any suggestions???
I stopped at the Coney Island to get something to eat but before I got out the car was running for about 5 minutes so I went in to Coney Island and when I came back out the car started with a very rough idle and then he died and I kept trying to start it up it will crank up with the very rough idle and then die again to the battery died. After sitting for about 15 or 20 minutes I finally got a boost in a crank right up and ran normal. Then today I made a couple of errands and when I got back in front of my house the same thing happened from last night I turned it off and when I crank it back up it ran really rough and died and I kept trying to start it up running rough until the battery died again
Hi there I have Opel Corsa 1.4 that will only crank unless if I give it a boost by Stepping on the accelerator and in order for it to idle well, I will have to leave the accelerator when the engine is a bit warm.
My 1998 Honda crv . It will start then dies instantly. I can crank it back it starts then dies over and over . What could this be ? Any help would be appreciated thank you
@@kingatticus303get a Haynes manual for your car. Or find a troubleshooting check list. N YOU need three things, spark, compression, and fuel. Theres a no crank condition Crank no start Rough idle Etc You have a crank no start condition which can point to things like a lack of fuel for whatever reason. It might even be your alternator
Yeah bro I have a 98 wirh same issue it's the idle control sensor My. Mechanic told me after he had rebuilt my head ans said my skunk 2 manifold had a block off plate my card horrible will die and sound horrible when starting it up but once it's warm it's fine you just gotta keep.it reving till warm
I was having problems with the fuel pump and it says evap vent solenoids it would shut off and won’t turn over till the heat cools down till I notice the relay of fuel pump was backward and I can feel the heat from it so I took it off and put back where it should be in the right plug and after that I haven’t gotten any problems and hasn’t shut off or won’t steer up so I think relay in the right way is more important some people said the relay doesn’t matter how you put it in but to me it proved me that it does matter I was running 86 on 30 12 volt it wasn’t reading it right
that for this video! I am wondering if this is the problem with my 2007 Saab. sometimes it starts and runs fine but then after a short while it starts to sputter and the fuel gauge drops down to E. I am lucky to get it over 15 mph at that point. When I turn car off, I occasionally here some loud clicking from area behind the stereo system. Thoughts?
Should be okay, as long as the car does not flood and die out. For the most part, fuel injectors are "on" all the time while car is running, throttle input is what will tell injectors to send more fuel for acceleration (along with air from intake).
I have a 2018 Camry that cranks perfectly on cold starts but has long cranking to start when warm starts( after I’ve driven it and parked for like an hr then turn on again) only happens when the engine is warm
Good morning, I’m working on a 2009 Kia spectra5 and I’m currently having a fuel issue, it drops in RPMS every now and then and the car will randomly turn off sitting at lights. Currently replaced the fuel pump due to the faulty pump not turning on. I’m into replacing the filters and seeing if the cause of the engine light kicking on, it says I have lean fuel pressure on my OBD scanner and a PCM failure to send correct A/F ratio, could that be a relay? Thanks again!
Hi there, Good morning! For your 2009 Kia Spectra5, the intermittent RPM drops and random stalling at lights, combined with a lean fuel pressure reading and a PCM failure to send the correct air/fuel ratio, suggest a few potential issues. Since you’ve already replaced the fuel pump, your next steps should include replacing the fuel filters, as clogged filters can restrict fuel flow. Also, check the fuel pump relay and related fuses, as a faulty relay can cause intermittent fuel delivery. Inspect the fuel pressure regulator, as it ensures the correct fuel pressure. Additionally, consider the Mass Air Flow (MAF) sensor and oxygen (O2) sensors, which can affect the air/fuel mixture if they’re dirty or faulty. Finally, inspect for vacuum leaks and ensure all connections to the PCM are secure. These steps should help address the lean condition and stalling issues. Please let me how it goes.
My a3 Audi 2.0 TDI 2004 model have a problem that after 10KM of drive engine will start vibrating when accelerating,,, I’ll turn off the engine and turn it on after it will run smoothly
They changed another fuel pump with a cheap no name brand and it is currently working fine. But still confused why the Bosch brand never was not pumping enough fuel. Looking for an complete 2005 FORD FOCUS 2.0 Fuel pump now
My daughter has a 2013 KIA Forte it will not take gas and air pressure comes out the tank when opened . The gas just spills outside the car when pumping it. Please tell me what could cause this issue?
Same, but not sometimes, it's always grinding and whining. I only hear it before starting the engine. Pretty sure it used to shut off after a few seconds
Yes, the relay can be stuck closed. If your fuel pump is constantly running with the key on and the engine off, it's likely that the fuel pump relay is stuck in the closed position, causing power to continuously flow to the fuel pump.
How Do you Fix That Problem, Cause I Tried to use my horn fuse in spot for the fuel pump relay and it won't cut on but if I use a jumper wire you Here the fuel pump relay kick on t@@HonestMechanicChannel
I have a whining noise the sound comes more from near my fuel tank rear tyre recently it's started taking time to start and cutting off in traffic it's a w204 c350 cdi could this mean a new fuel pump needed ?
Whats the best way to check if your fuel pumps out, if ive checked both fuses and even swapped the fuel pump relay with a fifferent relay and stillwifes grand caravan 2015 wont start.
My car dies when i slow down and come to a stop or when i go under 10 mph starts back up but now starting to die going down the road. Any suggestions. Thanks
Hello there. My 2012 Ram 1500 will not start after driving long periods of time. It will turn over but wont crank up and start after long drives. Starts up immediately on cold start. Starter has been replaced $300, Whole fuse module replaced $2,500 and still the issue has not been fixed. Any suggestions and advise will help. Thank you.
Hi there, It is a bit complicated but in my experience A fuel pump relay itself typically wouldn't cause a vehicle not to crank. The fuel pump relay is part of the vehicle's fuel delivery system and is responsible for sending power to the fuel pump. When it works correctly, it allows the fuel pump to pressurize the fuel system and deliver fuel to the engine. If the fuel pump relay fails, the engine might not start due to lack of fuel, but this is different from the engine not cranking over. "No cranking" usually refers to a situation where the starter motor doesn't turn over the engine when you turn the key or push the start button. Common causes for a no-crank condition include: 1. Dead battery: The most common reason, as the starter motor requires a lot of electrical power. 2. Faulty starter motor: The starter itself might be defective. 3. Bad ignition switch: If the ignition switch is not working, it might not send the signal to the starter motor to crank the engine. 4. Faulty starter relay or solenoid: A problem with the starter relay or the starter solenoid can prevent electrical current from reaching the starter motor.
Hi! If you've replaced the petrol pump and relay on your Opel Corsa B 1998 and you're still not getting power to the pump, here are a few potential causes to investigate: 1. Fuse Issue: Check the fuse related to the fuel pump circuit. A blown fuse can prevent power from reaching the pump. Wiring Problems: Inspect the wiring harness for any signs of damage, corrosion, or loose connections that could be interrupting the power supply to the pump. 2. ECU/PCM Issues: The Engine Control Unit (ECU) or Powertrain Control Module (PCM) might not be sending the signal to activate the fuel pump due to a fault or failure. This may require diagnostic testing with a scan tool to read any fault codes. 3. Fuel Pump Relay: Even though you've replaced the relay, it’s worth double-checking to ensure that it is functioning correctly and properly seated in its socket. You might also want to test the old relay to see if it actually was the issue. 4. Ignition Switch Problems: Sometimes, issues with the ignition switch can prevent power from reaching various components including the fuel pump. Let me know if you managed to get it sorted!
I have a 2005 3.3 v6 camry and i have the problem where is start and dies off right away. I change spark plugs and fuel pump with filter. I still have no luck . Anyone know what i can do to figure out the problem. I been thinking its a fuel pressure sensor on top of the fuel pump housing
Hi, If your 2005 Toyota Camry with a 3.3 V6 engine starts and then immediately dies, and you have already replaced the spark plugs and the fuel pump with its filter, you should consider a few more diagnostic steps to pinpoint the issue. Given the symptoms, it’s wise to start with a detailed check of the fuel system since you suspect a problem with the fuel pressure sensor. Firstly, measure the fuel pressure using a fuel pressure gauge. This will tell you if the fuel pressure is within the manufacturer's specified range. An incorrect fuel pressure reading can indicate a problem with the fuel pressure sensor or the fuel pressure regulator. Both are critical for proper fuel delivery to the engine, and any discrepancies here can cause the engine to stall. Next, inspect the air intake system and look for any vacuum leaks. Vacuum leaks can cause the engine to stall by allowing excess air into the engine, disrupting the ideal air-fuel ratio. Check all hoses, gaskets, and connections in the air intake system for any signs of damage or wear. Similarly, evaluate the Idle Air Control (IAC) valve, which manages the engine's idle speed. If the IAC valve is clogged or malfunctioning, it could lead to stalling issues immediately after starting. Additionally, assess the Throttle Position Sensor (TPS). The TPS monitors the position of the throttle in the engine and sends this data to the engine control unit (ECU). If this sensor is faulty, it can send incorrect information that may cause the engine to stall. Finally, ensure that all electrical connections, including those at the ECU and critical sensors, are secure and free from corrosion. Problems in the electrical system, including poor grounds, can lead to erratic engine behavior. After checking these areas, if the problem remains unresolved, it might be necessary to consult with a professional mechanic who can provide a more comprehensive diagnosis. Sometimes, complex issues require advanced diagnostic tools and deeper technical expertise to resolve effectively.
i have an issue with my mk4 golf 2.0l where on hot summer days after driving for a bit ill lose throttle and my car will start to stall out. if im on the highway itll pick itself back up but if i dont want that to keep happening i need to pull over and wait for my car to cool down. i originally thought it could be my fuel pump is on its way out, but im wondering if the relay could also be causing this. there is also no check engine light so i cant scan for codes, the only way to pin point it would be to get the software to do a live data scan but thats a few hundred dollars
Im having the same issue with my Vw Bora. Just had the mechanic replace the 409 relay and petrol filter. The only way to know it worked is to drive at least 40km on a hot day and see uf the engine stalls. Did you manage to fix the problem
My gas needle is not moving when driving. It will move when I sart the vehicle but that is it. What is going on with my 2009 Dodge Journey SXT V6? Thanks
Sounds like the fuel sending unit is probably not working. That's the arm on your fuel pump that measures the amount of fuel in the tank and communicates the fuel level to the gauge on your dashboard.. Unfortunately you have to replace the whole fuel pump. They can go bad but the rest of the fuel pump can still be working. Unless there is something wrong with your instrument cluster, that's probably the issue.
Thank you so much for posting the video. I found it very helpful although I would like to pick your brain about an issue I am having with my 2012 chevy malibu that none of the videos cover.
I bought it early March and after about 10 days of driving, it wouldn't start one morning. I did some research, figured out it was the fuel pump relay (or so I thought). I replaced it and it started up just fine. 2 days later, it wouldn't start again. I replaced the fuel pump relay again, and it started up just fine. Until about 4 days later when it wouldn't start again. This time I was sure that the relay couldn't be bad again so I pulled the fuse box out and inspected the wiring. I didn't see anything or feel any heat so I tried starting it and it started perfectly.
At this point I was confused but it drove fine for a few days until it wouldnt start again. Now everytime it doesn't start, I simply lift the bundle of wires up or wiggle them around and the car will start for me but only lasts a couple of days before needing to be moved again.
I have watched dozens of youtube videos and talked to a few people about this and they seem puzzled so I will take any and all advice!
Hi Chelsey, It seems like you have a loose or faulty electrical connection related to the fuel pump relay circuit. The intermittent starting issue and the fact that wiggling the wires temporarily resolves the problem points to a wiring issue. Possible causes could be a damaged wire, corroded connector, or a loose connection in the fuse box or at the fuel pump itself. To resolve this, you'll need to trace the fuel pump relay wiring and carefully inspect all connections for damage or corrosion
@chelseycombs9205: Sounds like your fuel pump is bad. It's drawing too many amps and keeps burning up the relay.
OMG Thank you! This is exactly what is wrong with my car! I'm so thankful for your video! Keep up the good work! 👍🏻
What were the symptoms of your car prior to that?
Thank you for sharing. I think this is a what my car did today
Hello thankyou for the vid.
I have a direct injection engine and have noticed when i turn off the car. The fuel injectors are randomly spraying every 5 mins for about half an hour. The car then finally goes to sleep. Can a faulty relay be the cause of this?
Regards
Hi, A faulty relay is unlikely to cause the fuel injectors to spray intermittently after shutting off the engine. This behavior is more likely related to a problem with the direct injection system, such as a faulty high-pressure fuel pump, leaking injectors, or issues with the control module. Let me know if you found the cause
Might a failing relay be related to the fuel gauge not working? I have already replaced the fuel level sending arm, but the gauge is stuck at below empty. Occasionally, it will read correctly, but it lasts just a few minutes before it goes to reading empty. Any ideas? Thanks.
Check the fuse to the gages n ur car
@@JosephWilliams-r2m I have checked the fuse and even replaced it, and confirmed that it can't be that because on occasion the gauge will work for a few minutes or even a day. I think it is wiring or the instrument cluster.
I would like input or advice...
I have a 1990 Ford F150 duel tank (manual) and it been having trouble starting, idling and the check engine light is on.
It also pushed fuel from the front tank to the rear tank, then overflows the rear tank.
Assumed it was the fuel pump malfunctioning.
Took it to a mechanic who is familiar with Fords (and older models) and after extensive diagnostic said it wasnt the fuel pump (they work fine) and eventually told me it needs a new PCM.
After watching this video, I wonder if it could be something as simple as the fuel relays (as both problems present the same symptoms).
Id like to safely assume the mechanic checked the fuel relays (but you never know).
Its going to cost me about a grand to get a rebuilt PCM and after hearing from several mechanic sources that its hardly (if ever) a bad PCM, Id like to avoid spending 1k (on such an old truck) only to find out later it was something simple like the fuel relays.
Any suggestions???
I stopped at the Coney Island to get something to eat but before I got out the car was running for about 5 minutes so I went in to Coney Island and when I came back out the car started with a very rough idle and then he died and I kept trying to start it up it will crank up with the very rough idle and then die again to the battery died. After sitting for about 15 or 20 minutes I finally got a boost in a crank right up and ran normal. Then today I made a couple of errands and when I got back in front of my house the same thing happened from last night I turned it off and when I crank it back up it ran really rough and died and I kept trying to start it up running rough until the battery died again
Should i change fuel pump relay after changing the fuel pump ram 1500
Hi there I have Opel Corsa 1.4 that will only crank unless if I give it a boost by Stepping on the accelerator and in order for it to idle well, I will have to leave the accelerator when the engine is a bit warm.
My 1998 Honda crv . It will start then dies instantly. I can crank it back it starts then dies over and over . What could this be ? Any help would be appreciated thank you
managed to solve the issue? This could be an issue with the fuel pump, idle air control valve, or immobilizer system. Also check for any vacuum leaks.
@@HonestMechanicChannel bro thank you so much!!
No , I have been so busy at work and normally I take my car to a shop . But figured, I need to get better at working on my car.
@@kingatticus303get a Haynes manual for your car. Or find a troubleshooting check list. N YOU need three things, spark, compression, and fuel.
Theres a no crank condition
Crank no start
Rough idle
Etc
You have a crank no start condition which can point to things like a lack of fuel for whatever reason. It might even be your alternator
Yeah bro I have a 98 wirh same issue it's the idle control sensor My.
Mechanic told me after he had rebuilt my head ans said my skunk 2 manifold had a block off plate my card horrible will die and sound horrible when starting it up but once it's warm it's fine you just gotta keep.it reving till warm
I was having problems with the fuel pump and it says evap vent solenoids it would shut off and won’t turn over till the heat cools down till I notice the relay of fuel pump was backward and I can feel the heat from it so I took it off and put back where it should be in the right plug and after that I haven’t gotten any problems and hasn’t shut off or won’t steer up so I think relay in the right way is more important some people said the relay doesn’t matter how you put it in but to me it proved me that it does matter I was running 86 on 30 12 volt it wasn’t reading it right
that for this video! I am wondering if this is the problem with my 2007 Saab. sometimes it starts and runs fine but then after a short while it starts to sputter and the fuel gauge drops down to E. I am lucky to get it over 15 mph at that point. When I turn car off, I occasionally here some loud clicking from area behind the stereo system. Thoughts?
Hi,I have got a V8 old car mercedes, when cracking engine all injectors they spray all the time,is it normal?
Should be okay, as long as the car does not flood and die out. For the most part, fuel injectors are "on" all the time while car is running, throttle input is what will tell injectors to send more fuel for acceleration (along with air from intake).
The government is yyty
I have a 2018 Camry that cranks perfectly on cold starts but has long cranking to start when warm starts( after I’ve driven it and parked for like an hr then turn on again) only happens when the engine is warm
Do you thing this can be the issue?
Good morning, I’m working on a 2009 Kia spectra5 and I’m currently having a fuel issue, it drops in RPMS every now and then and the car will randomly turn off sitting at lights.
Currently replaced the fuel pump due to the faulty pump not turning on.
I’m into replacing the filters and seeing if the cause of the engine light kicking on, it says I have lean fuel pressure on my OBD scanner and a PCM failure to send correct A/F ratio, could that be a relay? Thanks again!
Hi there, Good morning! For your 2009 Kia Spectra5, the intermittent RPM drops and random stalling at lights, combined with a lean fuel pressure reading and a PCM failure to send the correct air/fuel ratio, suggest a few potential issues. Since you’ve already replaced the fuel pump, your next steps should include replacing the fuel filters, as clogged filters can restrict fuel flow. Also, check the fuel pump relay and related fuses, as a faulty relay can cause intermittent fuel delivery. Inspect the fuel pressure regulator, as it ensures the correct fuel pressure. Additionally, consider the Mass Air Flow (MAF) sensor and oxygen (O2) sensors, which can affect the air/fuel mixture if they’re dirty or faulty. Finally, inspect for vacuum leaks and ensure all connections to the PCM are secure. These steps should help address the lean condition and stalling issues.
Please let me how it goes.
My a3 Audi 2.0 TDI 2004 model have a problem that after 10KM of drive engine will start vibrating when accelerating,,, I’ll turn off the engine and turn it on after it will run smoothly
Did u find the issue?
They changed fuel pump and car worked for few hours and now not starting. Does it mean they had to change the relay too??
That or other issues.
They changed another fuel pump with a cheap no name brand and it is currently working fine. But still confused why the Bosch brand never was not pumping enough fuel. Looking for an complete 2005 FORD FOCUS 2.0 Fuel pump now
My daughter has a 2013 KIA Forte it will not take gas and air pressure comes out the tank when opened . The gas just spills outside the car when pumping it. Please tell me what could cause this issue?
Bad fuel purge valve?
relay stuck some times ....and fuel pump always running........
Same, but not sometimes, it's always grinding and whining. I only hear it before starting the engine. Pretty sure it used to shut off after a few seconds
Even with engine off??? Locked doors and no key in??
I have nissan armada 2018 rpm is not cantrol what should i have to do
try relearning/reprogramming the throttle body.
Can the relay be stuck closed? My fuel pump is on constantly with the key on engine off
Yes, the relay can be stuck closed. If your fuel pump is constantly running with the key on and the engine off, it's likely that the fuel pump relay is stuck in the closed position, causing power to continuously flow to the fuel pump.
How Do you Fix That Problem, Cause I Tried to use my horn fuse in spot for the fuel pump relay and it won't cut on but if I use a jumper wire you Here the fuel pump relay kick on t@@HonestMechanicChannel
I have a whining noise the sound comes more from near my fuel tank rear tyre recently it's started taking time to start and cutting off in traffic it's a w204 c350 cdi could this mean a new fuel pump needed ?
Whats the best way to check if your fuel pumps out, if ive checked both fuses and even swapped the fuel pump relay with a fifferent relay and stillwifes grand caravan 2015 wont start.
Fuel injection service kit from harbor freight is what you need to test it cost about $45
My car dies when i slow down and come to a stop or when i go under 10 mph starts back up but now starting to die going down the road. Any suggestions. Thanks
I’m having the same issue. Im replacing my fuel filter let’s see what happens
@@AlexanderRodriguez-bz8dddid you manage to fix the problem. Having same exact issue
Hello there. My 2012 Ram 1500 will not start after driving long periods of time. It will turn over but wont crank up and start after long drives. Starts up immediately on cold start. Starter has been replaced $300, Whole fuse module replaced $2,500 and still the issue has not been fixed. Any suggestions and advise will help. Thank you.
PCM overheats and soldering comes loose in PCM, when it cools again, it works again. Google that.
Would a bad relay or pump cause no cranking ?
Hi there, It is a bit complicated but in my experience A fuel pump relay itself typically wouldn't cause a vehicle not to crank. The fuel pump relay is part of the vehicle's fuel delivery system and is responsible for sending power to the fuel pump. When it works correctly, it allows the fuel pump to pressurize the fuel system and deliver fuel to the engine. If the fuel pump relay fails, the engine might not start due to lack of fuel, but this is different from the engine not cranking over.
"No cranking" usually refers to a situation where the starter motor doesn't turn over the engine when you turn the key or push the start button. Common causes for a no-crank condition include:
1. Dead battery: The most common reason, as the starter motor requires a lot of electrical power.
2. Faulty starter motor: The starter itself might be defective.
3. Bad ignition switch: If the ignition switch is not working, it might not send the signal to the starter motor to crank the engine.
4. Faulty starter relay or solenoid: A problem with the starter relay or the starter solenoid can prevent electrical current from reaching the starter motor.
@@HonestMechanicChannel I was was off track, the pcm was fried , but thank you for the help !!
Hi I have replaced my petrol pump and relay on my opel corsa b type 1998 model however no power to the pump what can be the cause?
Hi! If you've replaced the petrol pump and relay on your Opel Corsa B 1998 and you're still not getting power to the pump, here are a few potential causes to investigate:
1. Fuse Issue: Check the fuse related to the fuel pump circuit. A blown fuse can prevent power from reaching the pump.
Wiring Problems: Inspect the wiring harness for any signs of damage, corrosion, or loose connections that could be interrupting the power supply to the pump.
2. ECU/PCM Issues: The Engine Control Unit (ECU) or Powertrain Control Module (PCM) might not be sending the signal to activate the fuel pump due to a fault or failure. This may require diagnostic testing with a scan tool to read any fault codes.
3. Fuel Pump Relay: Even though you've replaced the relay, it’s worth double-checking to ensure that it is functioning correctly and properly seated in its socket. You might also want to test the old relay to see if it actually was the issue.
4. Ignition Switch Problems: Sometimes, issues with the ignition switch can prevent power from reaching various components including the fuel pump. Let me know if you managed to get it sorted!
Hello my friend I have a problem can you help me
I have a 2005 3.3 v6 camry and i have the problem where is start and dies off right away. I change spark plugs and fuel pump with filter. I still have no luck . Anyone know what i can do to figure out the problem. I been thinking its a fuel pressure sensor on top of the fuel pump housing
Hi, If your 2005 Toyota Camry with a 3.3 V6 engine starts and then immediately dies, and you have already replaced the spark plugs and the fuel pump with its filter, you should consider a few more diagnostic steps to pinpoint the issue. Given the symptoms, it’s wise to start with a detailed check of the fuel system since you suspect a problem with the fuel pressure sensor.
Firstly, measure the fuel pressure using a fuel pressure gauge. This will tell you if the fuel pressure is within the manufacturer's specified range. An incorrect fuel pressure reading can indicate a problem with the fuel pressure sensor or the fuel pressure regulator. Both are critical for proper fuel delivery to the engine, and any discrepancies here can cause the engine to stall.
Next, inspect the air intake system and look for any vacuum leaks. Vacuum leaks can cause the engine to stall by allowing excess air into the engine, disrupting the ideal air-fuel ratio. Check all hoses, gaskets, and connections in the air intake system for any signs of damage or wear. Similarly, evaluate the Idle Air Control (IAC) valve, which manages the engine's idle speed. If the IAC valve is clogged or malfunctioning, it could lead to stalling issues immediately after starting.
Additionally, assess the Throttle Position Sensor (TPS). The TPS monitors the position of the throttle in the engine and sends this data to the engine control unit (ECU). If this sensor is faulty, it can send incorrect information that may cause the engine to stall.
Finally, ensure that all electrical connections, including those at the ECU and critical sensors, are secure and free from corrosion. Problems in the electrical system, including poor grounds, can lead to erratic engine behavior.
After checking these areas, if the problem remains unresolved, it might be necessary to consult with a professional mechanic who can provide a more comprehensive diagnosis. Sometimes, complex issues require advanced diagnostic tools and deeper technical expertise to resolve effectively.
0:46
i have an issue with my mk4 golf 2.0l where on hot summer days after driving for a bit ill lose throttle and my car will start to stall out. if im on the highway itll pick itself back up but if i dont want that to keep happening i need to pull over and wait for my car to cool down. i originally thought it could be my fuel pump is on its way out, but im wondering if the relay could also be causing this. there is also no check engine light so i cant scan for codes, the only way to pin point it would be to get the software to do a live data scan but thats a few hundred dollars
Im having the same issue with my Vw Bora. Just had the mechanic replace the 409 relay and petrol filter. The only way to know it worked is to drive at least 40km on a hot day and see uf the engine stalls. Did you manage to fix the problem
Thanks ❤
You're welcome !
swap it with another one of the same kind , if it cranks that's it
My gas needle is not moving when driving. It will move when I sart the vehicle but that is it. What is going on with my 2009 Dodge Journey SXT V6? Thanks
Sounds like the fuel sending unit is probably not working. That's the arm on your fuel pump that measures the amount of fuel in the tank and communicates the fuel level to the gauge on your dashboard.. Unfortunately you have to replace the whole fuel pump. They can go bad but the rest of the fuel pump can still be working. Unless there is something wrong with your instrument cluster, that's probably the issue.