Picture Frame Jig for the Table Saw

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  • Опубликовано: 16 сен 2021
  • #PictureFrameBuild #DIYPictureFrame #FrameJig #TableSawJig #BrattonBuild #woodworking #DIY
    Here’s how to make a jig for the table saw to make perfect miter cuts for your next picture frame. It’s difficult to get frame miters measured correctly since frame pieces have rabbets. This jig makes it easy! See below for tools and supplies used for this build, and step by step directions.
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    For easy to read direction: brattonbuilt.com/?s=miter
    PICTURE FRAME JIG DIMENSION:
    Base Length: 30 inches (or about 10″ longer than the frames you want to build)
    Fence Height: 3 inches
    Base Depth: 5 inches
    LUMBER USED FOR TABLE SAW JIG:
    (1) 30″ x 12″ piece of 3/4″ plywood
    (1) 30″ x 1″ piece of 1/4″ wood
    (1) 5″ x 4″ scrap of 3/4″ plywood
    (1) 5″x3″ scrap of 1/4″ plywood/hardboard
    CUT LIST USED FOR MITER JIG:
    Base: (1) 30″ x 5″ piece of 3/4″ plywood
    Fence: (2) 30″ x 3″ pieces of 3/4″ plywood
    Rabbet Runner: 30″ x 1″ x 1/4″ piece of whatever you want to use. (I used a scrap piece of cherry wood)
    Stop Block: Base (1) 5″x 4″ piece of 3/4″ plywood, Vertical Piece (1) 5″x3″ piece of 3/4″ plywood, and a 5″x3″ piece of 1/4″ board.
    SUPPLIES USED TO MAKE FRAME JIG:
    Wood Glue
    Super Glue
    Sand Paper
    Stain (Optional)
    Lacquer
    Insets with screws and washers
    Picture Frame Clips/Fasteners
    Picture Frame Brackets and Wire (For larger frames)
    (3) 1 1/4″ Pocket Screws
    (4) 1 1/4: Wood Screws
    TOOLS USED TO BUILD TABLE SAW JIG:
    Power Drill
    Pocket Hole Jig
    Table Saw
    (4) 12″ Clamps
    Strap Clamp
    Electric Stapler (Optional)
    Drill Press (Optional)
    Orbital Sander (Optional)
    STEP BY STEP DIRECTIONS ON HOW TO BUILD THIS PICTURE FRAME JIG FOR YOUR TABLE SAW
    STEP 1: CUT AND GLUE FENCE PIECES
    Cut two 30″ by 3″ pieces of 3/4″ plywood
    Note: 30″ is just what I choose to do. I recommend 10 inches longer than the frame you want to build.
    Glue both pieces together and clamp along a straight surface. Then let dry over night.
    STEP 2: CUT AND ATTACH BASE
    Cut a 30″ by 5″ piece of 3/4″ plywood
    Fasten fence to base with (4) 1 1/4″ wood screws after predrilling and countersinking.
    STEP 3: ATTACH THE RABBET RUNNER
    Glue on a 30″ by 1″ piece of 1/4″ board to the base of the miter jig.
    STEP 5: CALIBRATE MITER GAGE
    Before attaching miter gage to jig make sure your gage is perfectly dialed in to make perfect 45 degree cuts.
    STEP 6: (OPTIONAL) ADD CLAMP TO JIG
    See Video: I added this clamp because I thought it would be difficult to support the frame pieces while cutting, however it really wasn’t that difficult.
    STEP 7: ATTACH MITER GAGE TO PICTURE FRAME JIG
    Optional: Add Inserts to fence to help your jig last longer.
    STEP 8: MAKE A STOP BLOCK
    This is also an optional step, but I highly recommend it. The stop block really makes it much easier to make perfectly identical cuts.
    Cut a 5″ by 4″ piece of 3/4″ plywood and a 5″ by 3″ piece of 1/4″ board. Then glue pieces together. I used wood glue and super glue. The super glue acts as a clamp and it’s ready to used in a few minutes.
    Cut a 5″ by 2″ piece of 3/4″ plywood with a 45 degree edge and attach it vertically to the stop block with 1 1/4″ pocket holes.
    Clamp block to jig and make 45 degree cut.
    Check out more workshop projects:
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Комментарии • 14

  • @usablellc6735
    @usablellc6735 9 месяцев назад +1

    Great idea, especially since I thought of it as well! Did like the piece you added to deal with the rabbet.

  • @victorkaiser5352
    @victorkaiser5352 Год назад +1

    Watch it over and over again so simple goingt to build one today

  • @kartikmankad9428
    @kartikmankad9428 Год назад

    Really like your design since it reuses the miter gauge. Going to try it this weekend!

  • @bobcoatta9397
    @bobcoatta9397 2 года назад +1

    Nice simple jig good job I think I will make one like that

    • @BrattonBuilt
      @BrattonBuilt  2 года назад

      Thanks, hope you like it. After using it to make a few frames now I've realized I only use the clamp for large frames. So I'd probably just skip the clamp if you're only going to be making smaller frames.

  • @nateswoodcraft6715
    @nateswoodcraft6715 2 года назад

    Nice job 👍

  • @nicracine
    @nicracine 2 года назад +2

    Your is the simplest jig I've seen. I realy like it!. Now that you've had the jig for a while, would you change anything about the design?

    • @BrattonBuilt
      @BrattonBuilt  2 года назад +2

      Great question. I’ve made several frames with this jig now and it has worked out great. I find I don’t use the clamp I installed though because it’s fairly easy to hold the pieces in place while cutting. However, I would say not a horrible idea to still add the clamp and use it because it would keep those precious fingers a little safer by keeping them further from the blade.

    • @nicracine
      @nicracine 2 года назад

      @@BrattonBuilt Thanks for the answer. I'll probably make it this weekend. I have quite a few frames to make.

  • @bobcoatta9397
    @bobcoatta9397 2 года назад +1

    Question I am looking to make a bunch of picture frames, however these frames will be standard frames 8 x10 do I need to make the jig 30 inches could I make it say 20 or 24 inches
    What do you think

    • @BrattonBuilt
      @BrattonBuilt  2 года назад

      Great question. I did some measuring and you could go down to 24 inches long and still be able to cut both angles of your frame pieces. If your frame pieces are narrow you can make the base a little narrower too. Love to hear how your jig turns out!

  • @37south47
    @37south47 8 месяцев назад +1

    Don’t understand the rabbit runner…

    • @BrattonBuilt
      @BrattonBuilt  8 месяцев назад

      It helps support the piece a bit. Not necessary, but I do think it makes the cuts a tad safer and avoids the small risk of the piece tipping over.