The BEST Woodworking Jig Ever Made?
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- Опубликовано: 8 сен 2024
- I get a million questions about this picture frame woodworking jig. I didn’t invent it; I first saw it in Fine Woodworking magazine years ago. I haven’t seen any detailed plans on how to make one. Since I’m asked so many questions about it, I decided to make this video in which I describe all of the major parts of the sled and how to make it. I do not sell build plans for how to make it. It’s not my design and I do not feel right about selling plans. This video is the best that I can do. I also didn’t build the sled during the video because, honestly, I don’t need a second one. If I decide to upgrade my jig and make a new one, I’ll film it and put out a video.
This jig is amazing for one major reason - you don’t need to do any math in order to make a picture frame. There is a mathematical formula for making a picture frame: Wide of the picture + (width of the frame x 2) - (width of the rabbet x 2) = the width of the picture frame. You would do the same to calculate the length of the frame.
I don’t want to do math unless it’s necessary, and this jig makes it so I don’t have to do any math. If I want my frame to hold an 8” wide picture then I set the jig’s stop block at 8” and cut my pieces. It’s that simple. Here’s how you can make your own picture frame jig.
Make some rails out of plastic or hardwood. Make them so that they fit in the miter slot of your table saw, and slightly under the table top surface. I used a 1/2” thick x 30” long x 15” wide piece of plywood for the top. Turn the plywood at an angle so that the front tip is perfectly inline with the saw blade. Move the table saw’s fence so that it’s against the plywood’s back corner. Use a large square, such as a framing square, to align the plywood at a 45-degree angle to the fence. Place a few drops of superglue on the rails and set the plywood on top of them. I like to have my rails stick out the front a bit.
I took a 36” long aluminum straight edge with a ruler on it and cut the tip off at a 45 degree angle. I cut the ruler in half at 27”. The small piece (28” to 36”) is used on one side of the jig, and the large section is used for the other side. I cut a 1/8’ thick piece of hardboard and cut it at 1” wide. I used some double sided tape to stick it to the underside of the ruler. At the drill press, I drilled a few holes in it. I put the small piece on the left side of the plywood jig, at a 45 degree angle to the blade. Screw the piece in place. Attach the larger ruler piece to the right side of the jig.
In order to make my stop block, I took a piece of plywood and cut a groove down the edge. The bottom of the stop block fits under the aluminum ruler. I attached a toggle clamp to the stop block. It can slide back and forth, letting me set it to the measurements on my ruler.
I’m confident that there are other ways to perform these tasks. This video is a glimpse into my shop and how I make things. If you want to follow along on my woodworking journey, make sure you subscribe and hit the notification bell so you are alerted to my videos.
Here’s a list of tools and materials that I used to make this project. As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases.
•• Tools & Materials ••
1/2” plywood: amzn.to/33CUE5E
Cyanoacrylate glue: amzn.to/38VSy0V
Aluminum straight edge: amzn.to/3g3IjvW
Adhesive backed sandpaper: amzn.to/37ukMR5
Toggle Clamps: amzn.to/2JF5fpu
Framing square: amzn.to/3mAwu2O
Doubled sided tape: amzn.to/2I44Zjp
Hardboard: amzn.to/33E9mt0
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Appreciate the shout out!
Absolutely. Thank you for showing such a game changing jig. Your videos have a tremendous positive impact on makers so they can be confident in tackling new things.
Work smart not hard 👍
Wouldn’t it be easier to just attach the sled to the runners, cut the initial groove, and attach a framing square 45 degrees to the cut? If you’re already having to use the saw to cut the aluminum, why not start with a perfect 90 degree framing square?
One of the best tutorials! all info; no watching someone paint, hammer, or other waste activity. Best explanation I have seen.
Glad it worked out for you. 👍👊
Every video I've seen says that the 45 degree angles at the cut are not important, only that the total 90 between them is critical. However that's not really correct.
Let's say that the 45's are actually cut at 44.5° and 45.5°, and you mitred some 50mm (just under 2") wide timber. That half-degree error would result in the diagonals being 70.10 and 71.34mm, a difference of 1.24mm (3/64").
If you dimension everything off the inside (as-per this video) then each corner would have one protruding "spike" 0.88mm ( 1/32") long that would need to be removed, resulting in the mitre not quite intersecting at the final corner.
The funniest thing is that RUclipsrs rely of things like roofing squares to check 45 degree angles. Those things are notoriously inaccurate, as it putting a tiny bevel square inside the joint. To accurately check for 45 degrees just use a metal ruler... at 45° both sides of the right angle with be he EXACT same length.
I always have had issues getting my sides the proper length for whatever picture I’m going to frame. Wow, this designs takes the trial and error out of it! Thank you!
Note to my aluminum yardstick: Your days are ‘numbered’! You’re on to a better use!
Here's a tip for the stop block. Color the end of the board where your mark is to make aligning it to the proper measurement easier to see.
Cheers matey, the “frustration be gone” jig is awesome
Thanks for all the tips. I do compare other videos about making this gig and find yours are the best.
Finally some who explains the simple adjustments to make exact 45's - so simple and it's perfect, thanks!
Great tutorial, especially having explained without building the jig piece by piece. I could follow every step without question. Thank you.
I used this very informative video and then built my own. I am fortunate that I work in the solar industry. I used the aluminium racking which is perfectly straight as my two guides. One way to get around the problem of getting the 45 angles is to buy a large quality 300mm carpenters square. Line both up against the square and it is perfect. Once set up then attach self adhesive aluminium ruler taking into account exactly where the saw blade will cut. Using you design with the aluminium solar racking makes a really clean design that will not be effected by the humidity like wood often is. Thank you for producing this video - really well explained.
Been watching lots of this table saw add on slide! Thanks
Excellent descriptive video!
I greatly appreciate the explanation of all aspects of this jig. I watch a lot of instructional videos that do a fair job of explaining why things need to be the way they are, but many more that take a little bit for granted, like the reasons for doing things a certain way are obvious. To be fair, sometimes they are for me. Other times they’re not obvious and I know I’m not the only one. Sometimes I need more than just training wheels, you know? That’s down to experience, knowledge, and imagination. These are the variables everyone deals with. I took a really great shop class in middle school - one semester of wood, one of metals. Public school, well-funded, and maybe not as concerned with college-bound kids, but that wasn’t the point. Learning how to work wood and metal gave me skills that I use in the basic maintenance of my home. I don’t know how anyone who aspires to homeownership would be able to bypass this basic skills-building process. Even if you never use them, they give you the capacity to follow along and understand when the guy you hired to do the work for you explains what he’s doing. This is good for a couple of reasons, but the big one is so that you have a better chance of avoiding overwork that costs you more money. There are jobs I won’t even think about tackling myself (roofing, for one), but it’s good to understand the process.
On the flip-side, I’ve spent more than 40 years of my life away from table saws, band saws, drill presses, sheet metal brakes, lathes, tap and die sets, and the like. But I never completely forgot what I learned in Mr. Olsen’s 7th grade shop classes. So, when I needed to reskill after a heart attack and other health issues, woodworking became like a kind of therapy and rehabilitation at the same time. It wasn’t perty, as they say, but it was and is beautiful. If it weren’t for those shop classes, I don’t know what I would have done. Music and art are right up there, too. It’s a wonder to me that they’re the first programs to go when school budgets are cut. In the real world, they are far more valuable than anything else I took pre-college. BTW, did I mention I have a master’s degree and after high school, never worked a single day outside (other than a summer stint as a ground agent for a major airline which I did purely for fun)?
My sons don’t get to play with big tools and make great stuff in school because some capitalist yahoo thinks iPad instruction is good enough. Can’t wait to see how said yahoo feels about the quality of his man cave remodel done by a kid who studied iPad… 😂
Sorry for the ramble, but many thanks for helping to keep woodworking alive and accessible. It does more for us in these chaotic times than you know.
You have added some nice variations on this theme - thanks. All the best.
Thanks for explaining it so clearly. I'm going to build the jig tomorrow.
Thanks great video. I’m going to make one and see how it goes.
At 24 seconds I notice hanging ties from you sweatshirt. I was kind of scared, cause I can visualize ties in the saw, bringing you to the blade. Just noticed, so had to share. Very well done video, thanks so much. I ruin a lot of canvases then compound the problem by wanting to frame them. Thanks again.
Nice job explaining the steps.
I love that you give credit where credit is due. I have seen a couple of variations of this jig, and I really like your stop block solution. Very simple and most importantly it works. Maybe the next one you build, you can really trick it out and build the stop block with a a piece of wood and plexiglass. That would look very cool. Great tutorial and presentation.
Always want to give credit. We all build upon the prior inventions. Someone will build upon ours. Unless they suck. Don't build sucky inventions...
@@NewtonMakes Sucky inventions? Do you mean like the classic Gremlin and the Yugo? About to finally make this jig. Thanks again.
Simplify alignment of stop ruler by placing short piece as you did , then place a carpenter square against that stop to form a perfect 90 for placement of long numbered ruler. I am not fond of using hidden rabit groove cut as my alignment edge for many reasons. I want to be square to outer edge of frame that I can SEE when making miter cut.
Still love this jig and may make a modified version Thanks
Modified in my dreams last night. Just place an aluminum carpenter square where your it to be cut, screw it down on both sides and cut through wit table saw slide. Blade will be ok in most cases
Already perfect square b4 cut is made.
Thanks for the video, the explanations are helpful. I would like to point out that for the jig, you do not need to spend too much time to get 2- perfect 45-degree sides, if you cut the first miter on the left then cut the length and the second miter on the right. What is important is that the two miters together come up to 90. ( which is easy to check with a framing square ). You can prove it on paper because if you follow the same cuts there is no way to not come up to 90 degrees in each corner. The Make something channel and Michael Alm version have a similar sled.
But actually if the 2 sides are not both 45 degrees it will not be accurate because the lengths of each side will not match. The angle might add up to 90 degrees still but they won't match.
Made plenty of picture frames on the fly. Love them when I'm done because I'm done. Really impressed with thoughtfulness and simplicity of the design. Not made it yet but I think I will this weekend for whenever I make my next frames. Thanks man. Really enjoyed your video!
For a while I got into making some wood burning with what's called fractal burning I think. Made my own frames since a lot of my pieces were irregular sizes. Not sure why I made them irregular. lol. My frames turned out just ok. I see watching your videos where I went a bit wrong and how to make better frames. Thanks.
I've seen that burning technique and it's really cool!
Professor Billy in the house!!! Amazing video, thank you for taking us to school!
👍 the simplest approach to a complicated problem that’s repetitive and needs to be perfect every time is genius .... thank you for sharing. You’re right .. you will touch and effect many DIY’ers, I am one ! ✌️😎
Awesome, just getting into woodworking. Like the idea of gluing down sandpaper to keep your wood pieces from moving around too much. Have to make this.
Glue a board to the top of the jig down the cut line to stiffin it up, thick enough that your blade does not go thru it but still cuts thru your project peice ,as u cut the 45 degrees angles,
i built 1 a few months I put a stop on the back underneath to hit the saw works great
I’ll make a lot of picture frames for one thing and then another this jig I made it and it works great I always had problems with the 45° corners with them meeting up exactly with your jig even though you didn’t create it it works loved the video on it
Great video. Appreciate the links too 🙂
You gave me an idea? I will use an aluminum square and cut through it with the saw. This will make a perfect sled and very easy!
yes best way screw it down then cut it then stick some tape measure
Thanks for this explanation. Greetings from El Salvador.
Big cred for informing us this idea wasn't yours in the first place, that's very unrare on youtube. Don't really see the advantage with those metal parts. Thick glued together mdf or plywood "fences" would be dimensionally very stable and also offer tear out support on the exit side of the cut which this jig is missing. Or just make a 45/45 "pointing forward fence" that you attach to your normal cross cut sled that's standing on the floor beside you.
Thank you for taking the time to explain how this works in detail. Subscribed
This may not be a well thought out comment, but I am wondering if - at the far side of the metal rules a slightly oversized hole could be drilled. Then a washer and screw used. That way you have some wiggle in the metal rule to adjust to a perfect 45 degrees.
What do you and other folks think?
You hit the nail on the head there Sir. I have made jigs for other purposes using that idea. In particular, The fastener hole closest to the blade can be a tight fit and becomes a pivot point. other holes are bigger to allow clearance for movement. Use claw nuts in the bottom of the board, and hex head bolts so you can do them up good and tight. Use thick washers under the ruler to prevent swarf nuisance, and the same thick washers on top for good grip. None of my fences thus constructed have ever slipped.
Thanks. I saved the video.
Outstanding video. Great explanation on how to make a sled.
Great 'How to' video and fab. jig. Really appreciate you taking the time to explain it in such detail, will definitely be having a go at making one for myself.
I had actually thought you destroyed an old carpenter square for this. This would have been easier I think.
I’m so making this sled Saturday.
Really cool video!
That is bad ass brother, cannot to make this. Thanks
I’ve seen where one just cut through the angle: just make sure it’s AL, not steel! Alignment can be done with variations of the 5 cut method.
Very good job I started on one today and I really believe it's will be awesome
GREAT EXPLANATION THANKS SO MUCH :)
Perfect timing! I'm doing picture frames for Christmas gifts. I will definitely build this before batching out the frames. Thanks for the great walk through!
All that talk about alignment makes me think that if I were to build this jig all I need to do is get the short side ruler at 45 to the blade. I would than take my framing square, place it on the short side and register the long ruler on the square. Done. I would assume a framing square is within a few thousandths of 90 degrees. Good explanation though.
I made a set of 45 degree inclined stop blocks for my rails so I can use crown moulding to create frames as well.
You said you made a 40 inch frame with your jig, I think. How did you use the stop? I made the jig, made the board 40 inches with the idea of making a 36 inch frame. Didn’t take into consideration the 5 or so inch difference. I like the jig a lot!! Thanks
Did you ever figure this out? I've been trying to visualize it in my head & can't. I also need a rather long (34") frame and would like to avoid making the jig humongous if possible haha
Loved the video, I needed it.
You could do this using a framing square. Make the base board as described screw down the square. Use an angle grinder to cut across the square corner. Finally cut the base board.
Use a scrap of spacer plywood to protect the base board while angle grinding the square.
To be sure the square never moves you could use M6 bolts and wood nuts rather than screws. The nuts would need to be counter-drilled on the back with a Forstner bit.
Even better - bolt it down firmly but in a way that the square remains moveable. That way, you can tweak it later if the angle is slightly out.
Very interesting
Thanks; great instructions
Great video! I need a 34" long frame, and im trying to visualize how you made larger frames on this with the stop block only going back 20 some inches? Id rather not make an unyielding jig if i can help it haha. thank you!
To prevent damaging the jig by accidentally running all the way through you can add 3” to4” high edges to the back. Just like a crosscut sled. This will also protect the jig by holding it in place and protect the hands.
A strip of 2” x 1” screwed UNDER the back of the base board would stop it sliding too far into the saw blade.
Oops just seen someone else suggested this.
great concept
Thanks, Very informative.
Good tips thanks
nice jig
Since this is setup to give an inside-the-rabbet measurement, you could probably get away without numbers, too. Just use a ruler to set the distance from the kerf, or use the glass pane for a direct measurement.
this is good if your frames are thin but box style frames is an issue in terms of support. That thin ruler is not enough to support 2-3+inches of wood.Most paintings are framed thicker to cover the canvas.Yes there are good examples of such sleds already on RUclips
09:30 *Pivot point* !!!
10:18 As *bleak* as *night* - got it, chief.
New sub, I like your style, keep them coming!
That is freaking awesome right there really like this one, and simple to make, and great video Billy of the walk through 👍
I like it. Great video
Awesome master !!!
good video
Hey genius. Thanks 🙏
Wouldnt it be easier to use a regular square and screw it down and saw through it all at once?
Just curious but couldn’t you have used a 16 x 24 inch steel or aluminum square attached same fashion to the base board and cut through it with a chop saw?
You could use an aluminum framing square instead of a rule. Also, if you cut through it after mounting the square (assuming the square is 90 degrees) if you cut 1/2 of each joint on opposing sides of the jig, the joint should be at 90 degrees. Your work pieces need to be flat to the table so as not to tilt the cut. This will twist a frame that goes together perfectly, otherwise.
Instead of two separate aluminum rulers, why not just cut the long framing square right at it's 45 degree corner?
the lead corners of the jig seem to lift/bounce individually, how do you stabilize this end?
Easier way to make the ruler and vastly simplify alignment is to use an aluminum carpenter square. Add the hardboard, align the square to the kerf and blade, screw it down and cut through. Presto, perfect 45 without having to align two separate pieces.
I was thinking the same thing...or another way be would to attach and align the short piece of the straight edge as done in the video, and then index a framing square from that to align the longer piece of the straight edge.. I think I would try it that way if I were to make this jig..
@@NewtonMakes I don't understand why people are so rude on the internet..it really is kind of sad.
I used to drive truck long-haul.. just before the 2002 Olympics in Salt Lake City there were hundreds of city busses hauled on step-deck trailers to SLC.. I loaded a bus in Georgia there were 3 other drivers there, none of us knew each other.. all 4 of us loaded the same make/model bus and all 4 of us chained them down differently.. all 4 loads were secured in a way that was legal and safe.. moral of the story is that there may be a right way and a wrong way but there's also your way and my way, which can both be right..
It’s not a perfect 45 but you will get a 90. One comment by someone else pointed out that just using a carpenter square and not finding a true 45 will give you uneven diagonals which might be noticeable.
Use a aluminum carpenters square for a “perfect”90%.If you get a good square.
Great idea.
Just curious.. Why didn't you just use a good Aluminum Square to make the jig.. Just screw it down and run the saw through it. Just move the long end over a bit to get the Exact measurement and be done with it.. Ha..
Can you offer any advise on how to calculate the dimensions with a channel (rabit) in the middle that a tile can slide into?
Kind of tough to watch. I guess I'd prefer to see the ACTUAL building of the jig and then the ACTUAL building of a frame. Thanks for posting though.
Would it be easier to use an aluminum square instead of 2 straight rulers?
Thanks for sharing.
Provided the square is mounted before slicing, your 45 degree angle to the blade becomes less critical since the angles on both side are complementary and the two cuts will provide a true 90 degree angle in the cut frame itself. Have to watch for accuracy of the square. Not all squares are "square".
I like your version, slightly better than “Make Something“ both versions complemented each other
David has a great video on it. 👍
Technically - on the short side if you're not using a stop block you don't need to elevate the aluminum edge, correct?
No, you still want to elevate it. It's not so much about the stop block, it's for the rabbet.
I like it but not only no but F no on a Saw Stop. That being said it is a great sled on other saws. Jet extra rip is a awesome, saw great for single user saw ,I sold mine when I had other folks using my saw and got a Saw Stop and no it is not a better saw just a safer saw.
yes that would be excellent I wrote to incra after the 5000 jig I was using became uncomfortable close to the blade on my Saw Stop. I suggested a plastic sacrificial end to the aluminum extruded fence and was basically told to go pound sand so I asked my BIL who has a 3D printer to make a plastic end that attaches to my extruded fence and it works great .
Awesome
Is there a reason not to use a contractors square in place of the ruler?
Modify it any way you see fit. 👍
Those rulers make me nervous... move those rulers away from the blade a bit more if you have a sawstop table saw. Wouldn’t want to trip the brake system accidentally.
Throw out the Miter Saw 🤔
Don't think so
Hey which is safer to use 😆
Couldn’t you just screw an aluminum square to the sled and cut through it?
I looked at the picture and thought and still do why couldn't you use an aluminum framing square and screw it down then cut through the corner?
Yes you could do that. But you might not have a true 45 degree cut. It could be 43 on one side and 47 on the other which would work to give you the 90. Not the best way to cut 45s.
Mister GenealogistWoodworker, come on, METRIC. 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10, easy.
What did you use to cut the metal rule?
He mentioned that he used his mitre saw. Make sure the metal is aluminum which can easily be cut with a mitre saw or table saw blade.
That looks like the same Hitachi miter saw I have sitting there on the floor. I promise you I hate that thing and will replace it as soon as I can.
METRIC
Just use a metric scale and everything else is the same.
I'm trying to get my head around why you make creating the jig so complicated. If I recall correctly, here are the steps for the jig: After you make your sled with runners and have cut the saw kerf, mark your set-back (maximum width of framing material), draw lines from the set-back parallel to the edges of the board, line up a carpenter's square with the parallel lines (ideally zero is set on the middle of the saw kerf), attach the carpenter's square, and cut through the carpenter's square with the saw. If you want your stop feature, add the hardboard under the carpenter's square.
Well can you just add the plans for free
Amigo mucho habla...vamos al grano plis
No.
Its a flipping REBATE !!!! Not a 🐰.... 🙈🙈🙈
@@NewtonMakes Brilliant!
Rabbits with eyes live in the woods, rabbets with e's are made in wood.