Unbelievable! Genius! Thank you for taking the time & effort to produce this excellent, easy to follow & understand, video tutorial on how to make a cove jig for a table saw. I pity those who made previous comments that couldn't appreciate the creativity in your method - jealousy perhaps? Keep up the good work.
I've done this, but only with a fence clamped across the table at 90 degrees. I thought it would be nice to do different angles, but have never taken the idea further. Your jig is beautiful, thanks so much for sharing!
WOW OH WOW!! I just watched two of his/ your videos very impressive!!! The fact he/you still have ten complete fingers is even more impressive! I am a subscriber now!!
I have used this on thresholds to mach sure the board is resting on the flooring in the two rooms and not on any uneven concrete on the middle. Love the jig, makes it much easier than running clamps everywhere.
Beautiful jig design. Anchoring to the fence is a great idea. The approach I took was to instead anchor to both T-slots, but I must admit that I like your result better. Oh well-the life of the carpenter is to _always_ be using something that's less-than-ideal. Even Norm has probably used duct tape!
Measure from the top / mid point of the saw blade, to the angled fence (measuring at right angles to the fence) This should be half the width of the board, so the middle of the saw blade is centred on the board. Check the blade starts cutting in the middle of the board when it's only 1mm above the table, and if it's off, then adjust the fence position accordingly before increasing the cut depth.
Excellent, excellent work! How I miss having a shop. I once turned out a corner piece for a bookcase using this method. I used a smaller diameter blade..around 6 inches..to get a tighter inside cove. Had a hard time convincing people it was created on a table saw!
I thought I invented this technique a few months ago. I’ve been professionally using a table saw for 28 years now and I’d never seen anything like it but it was the only solution I could think of to make a trough shape I needed. Watching me use the saw this way seemed to stress out the other carpenters in the shop but you can feel the forces and as long as you don’t take a deep cut it’s fine. I raised the blade 2/3 of a turn each time. The math isn’t too complicated, a little basic trig and geometry. The cosine of the angle from the guide to the front of the table is (1/2 desired width of trough)/square root (radius of the blade squared minus(radius of the blade minus depth of the cut)squared). Draw out the blade and cut and write the above math as a standard formula and it will make sense. It can not kick back, nothing can bind against the blade. The people saying it’s not safe have not tried it. I’ve been building miniatures for 21 years, often using a table saw for much scarier operations than this and have all my fingers.
Kick back comes not only from a bind against the blade, but also occurs if the workpiece comes away from the fence and touches the back side of the saw blade, especially when no riving knife can be used, (as is the case in this type of cut.). Anyone utilizing this method of cove cutting should be cognizant of that. "The people saying it’s not safe have not tried it." Or, have tried it and found it not to be safe for themselves. To each their own when it comes to understanding their limits with respect to work shop safety. "I’ve been building miniatures for 21 years, often using a table saw for much scarier operations than this and have all my fingers." Performing an unsafe activity and emerging unscathed does not make that activity safe, it simply means that one got away with it. Experience certainly helps us to successfully perform risky tasks, but Life changing accidents in the wood shop happen so fast -before your body even has time to register the pain. I encourage folks who are thinking that an operation is unsafe to take the time to think through the operation carefully and determine how it can go wrong. Then, how can you change the operation to mitigate or eliminate unnecessary risks. Being cavalier with safety is typically a loser.
Unlike the suggestion of using a radial arm saw, on a table saw, if the piece lifts at all it looses contact with the blade. I wouldn’t try it but I think you could let go of the piece mid cut and it would just sit there. Scary doesn’t necessarily mean unsafe, wrong word choice. Being part of the group that investigates incidents at a 500+ person company, I am very aware of shop safety. You are correct, understanding your limits is very important. Another good shop characteristic is humility, both to ask for help if you need it and to admit mistakes. You make another good point saying before starting think it through and determine what can go wrong. More than a few accidents have happened by the operator saying “I got this” and jumping in without good preparation.
@@jeffa847 No, at all my recent jobs I’m not allowed to take photos much less video. When I did architectural models 20 years ago, we’d make small scale buildings with dormers and complex roofs. Usually, there was a board with double sided tape involved to keep your fingers from being near the blade. The finished buildings for a site model might be as small as an inch square but with pitched roofs meeting at an angle. A sled on a 8” table saw is also helpful for miniatures.
I have done this many times to make special molding in wood species where the mouldings or the profiles or sizes that I needed were not available. It works great and it is very safe as long as your fence is on the correct side of the rotation of the blade. Take incremental cuts and expect to do some sanding.
You make a cut to your desired final depth on a short, say 2 foot, sample board. Adjust your fence whichever direction is required. This is not a new technique. This has been done about as long as table saws have existed. @@ZzZ-qd1zo
So how do you know the angle you need to cut on with Jig to get correct depth or am i missing something? As i have a use for this skill but obviously not a wood worker. Thanks
Nicely done on the fixture! Funny randomly running into your vid on the side bar. I was explaining cove cutting to a guy building snare drum shells. They usually cut mitres and glue up the flat sections into a circle. Then do all sorts of whacky stuff to get the inside of the drum shell rounded once glued up. So I suggested coving on a table saw with various size blades and angles of approach to get a variety of diameters. Wish I'd see your video to give them a good fixture set-up example. 👍🙂 I just did a 10" dia. cove but added smaller blades either side of the 10" blade to stiffen it up given the direct side loading.
I didn't think u could get the smallest 40mm wood piece with that half round cut in it but u did and it's the jig I guess and the angle u set it up at. Brilliant work pal./ I need to make a cut in a length of wood to hold th4e metre long 16mm threaded rod for the fence system I'm going to build on my home built table saw. I don't have a cast Iron top like the one u have pal but hopefully one day in the future. We all gotta begin somewhere, and mine will be home built in my workshop/garage.. haha! U wouldn't have a video for making a Bench Pillar Drill table with fence, would u? I need a little help with this build. I'm really new to making these sorts of things so any advice would be gratefully received my friend.. Enjoyed this video very much too btw
@@wolfgangkunzel7364 : sehr interessant und gut, wissen Sie. Ich werde dies bei der nächsten Renovierung einer Decke oder einer Wand im Hinterkopf behalten. Ich habe letztes Jahr eine kleine Decke gemacht, aber nicht daran gedacht. Danke. Wozu verwendest du sie, wenn man bedenkt, dass Toy den Wälzer genommen hat, um eine schöne Schablone zu machen?
Elliptical. The only circle that can be cut this way is if the blade is perpendicular to the cutting direction, and it only gives you a radius of cut that's the same as the blade.
This is a really awesome jig!! I'm just curious how often you need to make large coves in long boards to justify the making of it though. What are some applications for single huge coves in a long board?
Ciao....il JIG è stupendo è facile da realizzarlo....però, come si calcola per fare la centratura del pezzo, visto che sposti la guida parallela del banco sega e l’ampiezza del tuo JIG ? complimenti, bravissimo
I've used this technique to mill custom crown and other moldings. There's no better feeling than knowing future carpenters go, "How in the world...???" :-)
To all the "I learned this in shop class 5 decades ago" "Norm Abrams" ( ie it's not impressive) folks: Knowledge you have isn't knowledge everyone else has. Creative vision is dynamic, broadly distributed, and highly variable in humans. In fact, many people who are in school today probably have knowledge you'll never have. It's almost as if there's an infinite number of facts and you can't have them all in your brain simultaneously. I know, none of this needs to be said, it's self evident. Well....
i got a bit triggered at 1min 20 secs. at you stacking parts there. years ago, i was watching a guy cut wine rack dividers on a table saw and had a stack of waiting parts on his left and cut parts on his right----on the table saw table. after the stack got about 30ish high, the guy accidentally brushed his hand against the stack and knocked it over...... in such a way that the top piece on the pile slide down, hit the blade and got slung across the shop. only for the next one to slide down and do the same. and again, and again. within a few seconds that saw was slinging wood all over the shop with 5 guys diving for cover. was scary as hell at the time and i bust out laughing to myself every time i think about it now.
I was mentally exercising that, until I realized it wouldn't work as I intended to, since it does oval-related curves, and I needed regular circles with various radius
Good point, I'm glad you posted. I was thinking of the same purpose and had not picked up on that. What you and I are looking to do is very difficult and/or very expensive. 😁✌🖖
its fine as long as the wood never touches the sawblade body. where the trick and experience comes in, with feeding in just enough to cut without going beyond the cutting diameter of the saw teeth. otherwise, the blade binds. not for the faint of heart, but can be done and can be done safely.
Heck, I have a user manual that shows how to make a bowl with a radial arm saw! I'm already missing a finger with a run in with a jointer, so I won't be trying that out.
Für den Hobbybastler erscheint das immer noch wie schwarze Magie. Ich weiss, dass man solche Techniken in der Meisterschule für Tischler lernt, aber wohl nicht (mehr) in der normalen Tischlerausbildung. Und der Rest hat eben meist nur sein Halb- bis Viertelwissen.
ne Frager der Lager - ich kenne eine Tischsäge, die nach vergleichbarem Gebrauch neue Geräusche machte. IMO waren es die Lager, und es klang nicht toll…
@@r2d2v2 Seitliche Kräfte mag das Sägeblatt gar nicht, daher is es wichtig nicht zu schnell zu schieben und in mehreren ausreichend flachen Durchgängen zu schneiden. Für große Mengen lohnt sich da wohl eher eine Tischfräse oder ein Hobel mit den passenden Messern.
@claus-peterschmidt1478 kannst du mir verraten wie die Technik im deutschen heisst? Finde immer nur Englische Namen und Videos. Und wie nennen sich die speziellen Sägebätter? Hab das in der Schhreinerlehre leider nicht gelehrt bekommen und will jetzt meine eigene Recherche machen. Danke im voraus.
@@jnnkdrrsvideos6621 die Sägeblätter heissen "Kehlscheiben" oder "Kehlfrässcheiben", wenn ich mich recht erinnere. Die Technik müsste "Kannelierung" oder "Profilierung" heissen. Frag aber mal einen Tischlermeister, ich hab mein Diplom in Physik gemacht und mein Wissen über Ho,zbearbeitung in D kommt von Jonas Winkler, Phillip Konter etc und Sekundärliteratur. Man muss in dem Punkt auch bedenken, dass in Europa Tischfräsen viel weiter verbreitet sind als in zB USA, weswegen man hier Dado-Sets kaum kennt weil man meist für sowas Verstellnuter benutzt. Manche Techniken sind sehr "lokal" verbreitet.
Or chairs. Seat and backs can be made this way. Victorian houses sometime have wooden external cladding that can be made this way. There are numerous cases where this might be useful. If course, you could also use planers with special blades etc pp. It is AN option, not THE ONLY option.
insan gerçekten utanıyor....bizim (bazılarında) insanımızda hiç mi görgü, adabı muaşeret kalmadı arkadaş...soru soruyorsunuz hiç nezaket yok,teşekkür yok ,takdir yok ...biz bu hale nasıl geldik anlamıyorum ...tmm herkes öyle değil ama var olan miktar bile bize yakışmıyor...değiştirin kendinizi
I used this technique to make a competition water ski in 1967 high school shop. The competition skis at the time had a full length cove on the bottom. It makes a horrible sound, but works great with a good fence and downforce on the board.
Much faster than my miter saw method employing depth stop, though I feel a bit safer. Idk this looks like potential kick back city if force gets applied incorrectly.
'If' ... provided one understands the reasons why kickback happens and takes steps to avoid it. It's perfectly fine. It's only dangerous for that, don't know.
What on earth do you use the curved pieces for. I mean, interesting video, but the practicality is nil? Are you really going to make money from all this effort?
Tablesaw cove cutting has been around for at least 100 years! IMHO, this design is the best I've ever seen but still lacks two features; the ability of the fixture to hold the workpiece against the fence and down onto the table. Adding feather boards for both is recommended for control during milling, which will produce a.smother cut. Also, making narrow coves is better done with a router table or a shaper. Asymmetric coves are possible by leveling the saw blade but this type of cut requires the additional safety and control of the aforementioned feather boards.
Obviously highly skilled but he makes the mistake of using at tiny push stick leaving his fingers exposed to the saw blade. I got rid of the radial arm saw when I realized I could do it all with a compound bevel chop saw and 12" table saw. To me the most used large tool in my shop is the table saw.
![Blox Fruits Dragon Rework Update [Full Stream]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/EqDAp8udhm0/mqdefault.jpg)
Unbelievable! Genius! Thank you for taking the time & effort to produce this excellent, easy to follow & understand, video tutorial on how to make a cove jig for a table saw. I pity those who made previous comments that couldn't appreciate the creativity in your method - jealousy perhaps? Keep up the good work.
thank you
Thanks to you, it helps me a lot.
I've done this, but only with a fence clamped across the table at 90 degrees. I thought it would be nice to do different angles, but have never taken the idea further. Your jig is beautiful, thanks so much for sharing!
WOW OH WOW!! I just watched two of his/ your videos very impressive!!! The fact he/you still have ten complete fingers is even more impressive! I am a subscriber now!!
Beautiful jig. I love the hinge. Excellent design and craftsmanship.
I have used this on thresholds to mach sure the board is resting on the flooring in the two rooms and not on any uneven concrete on the middle. Love the jig, makes it much easier than running clamps everywhere.
Thank you. Have a good day
Beautiful jig design. Anchoring to the fence is a great idea. The approach I took was to instead anchor to both T-slots, but I must admit that I like your result better. Oh well-the life of the carpenter is to _always_ be using something that's less-than-ideal. Even Norm has probably used duct tape!
I discovered this technique a few years ago, I had no jig! I love this jig. I will make it!
How do you know where to set the jig to start the cuts to have the cove fall dead center of the board?
Measure from the top / mid point of the saw blade, to the angled fence (measuring at right angles to the fence) This should be half the width of the board, so the middle of the saw blade is centred on the board. Check the blade starts cutting in the middle of the board when it's only 1mm above the table, and if it's off, then adjust the fence position accordingly before increasing the cut depth.
@@SoundsToBlowYourMind - TY ...
Excellent, excellent work!
How I miss having a shop.
I once turned out a corner piece for a bookcase using this method. I used a smaller diameter blade..around 6 inches..to get a tighter inside cove.
Had a hard time convincing people it was created on a table saw!
And yet again after over 50 years in construction trades I see something new. Thank you I will use this SOON>
Thank you for watching.
I learned this in 9th grade wood shop in 1974. Always have kept it in mind just never used it. Thanks for the reminder.
👍😉
I did to. 1985 wood shop class
WOW, what a great and simple idea. Well done
Terimakasih sudah berbagi vidio yang bermanfaat ini
I thought I invented this technique a few months ago. I’ve been professionally using a table saw for 28 years now and I’d never seen anything like it but it was the only solution I could think of to make a trough shape I needed. Watching me use the saw this way seemed to stress out the other carpenters in the shop but you can feel the forces and as long as you don’t take a deep cut it’s fine. I raised the blade 2/3 of a turn each time. The math isn’t too complicated, a little basic trig and geometry. The cosine of the angle from the guide to the front of the table is (1/2 desired width of trough)/square root (radius of the blade squared minus(radius of the blade minus depth of the cut)squared). Draw out the blade and cut and write the above math as a standard formula and it will make sense.
It can not kick back, nothing can bind against the blade. The people saying it’s not safe have not tried it. I’ve been building miniatures for 21 years, often using a table saw for much scarier operations than this and have all my fingers.
Kick back comes not only from a bind against the blade, but also occurs if the workpiece comes away from the fence and touches the back side of the saw blade, especially when no riving knife can be used, (as is the case in this type of cut.). Anyone utilizing this method of cove cutting should be cognizant of that.
"The people saying it’s not safe have not tried it." Or, have tried it and found it not to be safe for themselves. To each their own when it comes to understanding their limits with respect to work shop safety.
"I’ve been building miniatures for 21 years, often using a table saw for much scarier operations than this and have all my fingers." Performing an unsafe activity and emerging unscathed does not make that activity safe, it simply means that one got away with it. Experience certainly helps us to successfully perform risky tasks, but Life changing accidents in the wood shop happen so fast -before your body even has time to register the pain. I encourage folks who are thinking that an operation is unsafe to take the time to think through the operation carefully and determine how it can go wrong. Then, how can you change the operation to mitigate or eliminate unnecessary risks. Being cavalier with safety is typically a loser.
Unlike the suggestion of using a radial arm saw, on a table saw, if the piece lifts at all it looses contact with the blade. I wouldn’t try it but I think you could let go of the piece mid cut and it would just sit there.
Scary doesn’t necessarily mean unsafe, wrong word choice. Being part of the group that investigates incidents at a 500+ person company, I am very aware of shop safety. You are correct, understanding your limits is very important. Another good shop characteristic is humility, both to ask for help if you need it and to admit mistakes. You make another good point saying before starting think it through and determine what can go wrong. More than a few accidents have happened by the operator saying “I got this” and jumping in without good preparation.
Do you have any videos on YT on how you do the tricky cuts for your miniatures?
@@jeffa847 No, at all my recent jobs I’m not allowed to take photos much less video. When I did architectural models 20 years ago, we’d make small scale buildings with dormers and complex roofs. Usually, there was a board with double sided tape involved to keep your fingers from being near the blade. The finished buildings for a site model might be as small as an inch square but with pitched roofs meeting at an angle. A sled on a 8” table saw is also helpful for miniatures.
Diy homemade gutters !! Brilliant!
I have done this many times to make special molding in wood species where the mouldings or the profiles or sizes that I needed were not available. It works great and it is very safe as long as your fence is on the correct side of the rotation of the blade. Take incremental cuts and expect to do some sanding.
How do you get the cut centered on the board? Seems like it would be difficult.
You make a cut to your desired final depth on a short, say 2 foot, sample board. Adjust your fence whichever direction is required. This is not a new technique. This has been done about as long as table saws have existed. @@ZzZ-qd1zo
How are you centering the cuts?
Wow, learn something new everyday. Thank you for sharing.
Wow I'd never seen this before
Amazing
So how do you know the angle you need to cut on with Jig to get correct depth or am i missing something? As i have a use for this skill but obviously not a wood worker.
Thanks
I will make a video again to answer questions.
I learned this when I was 15. In 1985 with old saws. It was taught in wood shop.
your creativity blows me away!
Nicely done on the fixture! Funny randomly running into your vid on the side bar. I was explaining cove cutting to a guy building snare drum shells. They usually cut mitres and glue up the flat sections into a circle. Then do all sorts of whacky stuff to get the inside of the drum shell rounded once glued up. So I suggested coving on a table saw with various size blades and angles of approach to get a variety of diameters. Wish I'd see your video to give them a good fixture set-up example. 👍🙂 I just did a 10" dia. cove but added smaller blades either side of the 10" blade to stiffen it up given the direct side loading.
Unfortunately, there is no explanation as to what angle he is cutting to make the cove.
Red Loctite? Brave. I make to many mistakes, and can't get the red stuff apart.
Excellent!!!
Thank you for sharing!
Thank you. Have a good day
강좌 감사합니다 선생님!🥰
감사합니다. 좋은 하루 되세요.^^
I didn't think u could get the smallest 40mm wood piece with that half round cut in it but u did and it's the jig I guess and the angle u set it up at. Brilliant work pal./ I need to make a cut in a length of wood to hold th4e metre long 16mm threaded rod for the fence system I'm going to build on my home built table saw. I don't have a cast Iron top like the one u have pal but hopefully one day in the future. We all gotta begin somewhere, and mine will be home built in my workshop/garage.. haha!
U wouldn't have a video for making a Bench Pillar Drill table with fence, would u?
I need a little help with this build. I'm really new to making these sorts of things so any advice would be gratefully received my friend..
Enjoyed this video very much too btw
Nice to meet you.
I support you.
I will make a Bench Pillar Drill table soon.
I hope it will be of help.
You made a nice jig yes, but what do you use these concave pieces for ?
I’ve used this method for raised panel doors but what are you making ?
Solche ausgekehlten leisten wurden früher oft an Holzdecken als Abschluss verwendet , zb in schlössern oder grossen Sälen
@@wolfgangkunzel7364 : sehr interessant und gut, wissen Sie. Ich werde dies bei der nächsten Renovierung einer Decke oder einer Wand im Hinterkopf behalten. Ich habe letztes Jahr eine kleine Decke gemacht, aber nicht daran gedacht.
Danke.
Wozu verwendest du sie, wenn man bedenkt, dass Toy den Wälzer genommen hat, um eine schöne Schablone zu machen?
Are these cuts true circles or are they eliptical? Thanks
Elliptical. The only circle that can be cut this way is if the blade is perpendicular to the cutting direction, and it only gives you a radius of cut that's the same as the blade.
Cove cutting is not a new thing. I've used it many times over the last 25 years. I love the jig idea, though. Makes for repeatable coves.
Have you tried using a dado blade?
This is a really awesome jig!! I'm just curious how often you need to make large coves in long boards to justify the making of it though.
What are some applications for single huge coves in a long board?
It is used in molding production.
Traditional houses in some regions use wood gutters. I could imagine this method to make wood gutter sections easily...
How do you set the distance to center the cove.
After setting the maximum height of the saw blade
Measure the distance from the front and back of the saw blade.
Ciao....il JIG è stupendo è facile da realizzarlo....però, come si calcola per fare la centratura del pezzo, visto che sposti la guida parallela del banco sega e l’ampiezza del tuo JIG ?
complimenti, bravissimo
After setting the maximum height of the saw blade
Measure the distance from the front and back of the saw blade.
@@hammersound-jig grazie amico grazie....farò il JIG...e poi mi metterò all’opera x studiare quello che mi hai scritto 👍👍👍😉
EXCELENTE !!! gracias por compartir su conocimiento
라운드 켜는 방법은 아무리 얇게 작업한다고 해도 하드우드에는 사용하면 안될 것 같네요 ㄷㄷㄷ
Früher, ca. 1960, würden Treppenpfosten so gemacht, man nannte sie Krümmling! Oft war das Holz, Brasilkiefer!
돼요 오크로 많이해요
How about a video on your work bench?
Podrías mostrar o decir que fresa utilizaste, saludos desde San Luis Potosí
Is this method harmless (cause damage) to the saw machine???
It is harmless as long as you follow the precautions.
Meraviglioso ottimo lavoro
Very nice, but how do you know how to adjust it?
After setting the maximum height of the saw blade
Measure the distance from the front and back of the saw blade.
Brillante trabajo.... Me lllega😊
I've used this technique to mill custom crown and other moldings. There's no better feeling than knowing future carpenters go, "How in the world...???" :-)
Пожалуйста расскажите как вы рассчитываете угол поворота упора?
That is pure genius to cut some molding or crownwhen there isn't a router bit big enough to do it.
You saw it correctly.👍😉
To all the "I learned this in shop class 5 decades ago" "Norm Abrams" ( ie it's not impressive) folks: Knowledge you have isn't knowledge everyone else has. Creative vision is dynamic, broadly distributed, and highly variable in humans. In fact, many people who are in school today probably have knowledge you'll never have. It's almost as if there's an infinite number of facts and you can't have them all in your brain simultaneously. I know, none of this needs to be said, it's self evident. Well....
Muhteşem bir çalışma, eline sağlık dostum. Bu fikri yazdım bir kenara.
WOW! I always enjoy your videos. Thanks.
Thank you. Have a good day
¿Como hace para que la endidura que al centro, equidistante de los bordes? Al menos eso es lo que parece. Mil gracias por el excelente video.
Spettacolare, bravissimo 👌
To be perfectly honest here, the setup is a lot simpler on a radial arm saw
this is some Diresta level wizardy
Amazing❤❤
What brand of countersink bit is that?
So very cool thanks for sharing
Thank you. Have a good day
i got a bit triggered at 1min 20 secs. at you stacking parts there.
years ago, i was watching a guy cut wine rack dividers on a table saw and had a stack of waiting parts on his left and cut parts on his right----on the table saw table. after the stack got about 30ish high, the guy accidentally brushed his hand against the stack and knocked it over......
in such a way that the top piece on the pile slide down, hit the blade and got slung across the shop.
only for the next one to slide down and do the same. and again, and again. within a few seconds that saw was slinging wood all over the shop with 5 guys diving for cover. was scary as hell at the time and i bust out laughing to myself every time i think about it now.
I was mentally exercising that, until I realized it wouldn't work as I intended to, since it does oval-related curves, and I needed regular circles with various radius
Good point, I'm glad you posted.
I was thinking of the same purpose
and had not picked up on that.
What you and I are looking to do is
very difficult and/or very expensive. 😁✌🖖
This would make me nervous as hell. I do not like putting oblique loads on circular saw.
its fine as long as the wood never touches the sawblade body. where the trick and experience comes in, with feeding in just enough to cut without going beyond the cutting diameter of the saw teeth. otherwise, the blade binds. not for the faint of heart, but can be done and can be done safely.
Bravo!!!
Thank you. Have a good day
Nice n good skill
👍😉
Wonderful..❤
Any idea of what could be manufactured with the resulting pieces with cove?
Mostly crown molding and stack moldings. I just made a sleigh bed with cove molding.
Отлично! Это известный прием. А теперь подумай как сделать ответную часть детали ( т.е. бугор). Я пока не могу придумать...
I've looked at "guitar neck carving jigs" and tried to think of ways to adapt it for that.
All this bloody time i never knew that!!!thank you!!!
Hab ich auch schon gemacht. 👍
😍😍 Muchas gracias
👏👏👏
Fantastic
Heck, I have a user manual that shows how to make a bowl with a radial arm saw! I'm already missing a finger with a run in with a jointer, so I won't be trying that out.
Not to brag but been cutting coves like that for the last 30yrs.
Useful technique but don't even think about doing it without ear defenders
Say again??
So wurden schon vor über 70 Jahren die Kröpfe, Treppenhohlpfosten, gemacht es gab sogar ein spezielles Sägeblatt dazu
Für den Hobbybastler erscheint das immer noch wie schwarze Magie. Ich weiss, dass man solche Techniken in der Meisterschule für Tischler lernt, aber wohl nicht (mehr) in der normalen Tischlerausbildung. Und der Rest hat eben meist nur sein Halb- bis Viertelwissen.
ne Frager der Lager - ich kenne eine Tischsäge, die nach vergleichbarem Gebrauch neue Geräusche machte. IMO waren es die Lager, und es klang nicht toll…
@@r2d2v2 Seitliche Kräfte mag das Sägeblatt gar nicht, daher is es wichtig nicht zu schnell zu schieben und in mehreren ausreichend flachen Durchgängen zu schneiden. Für große Mengen lohnt sich da wohl eher eine Tischfräse oder ein Hobel mit den passenden Messern.
@claus-peterschmidt1478 kannst du mir verraten wie die Technik im deutschen heisst? Finde immer nur Englische Namen und Videos. Und wie nennen sich die speziellen Sägebätter? Hab das in der Schhreinerlehre leider nicht gelehrt bekommen und will jetzt meine eigene Recherche machen. Danke im voraus.
@@jnnkdrrsvideos6621 die Sägeblätter heissen "Kehlscheiben" oder "Kehlfrässcheiben", wenn ich mich recht erinnere. Die Technik müsste "Kannelierung" oder "Profilierung" heissen. Frag aber mal einen Tischlermeister, ich hab mein Diplom in Physik gemacht und mein Wissen über Ho,zbearbeitung in D kommt von Jonas Winkler, Phillip Konter etc und Sekundärliteratur. Man muss in dem Punkt auch bedenken, dass in Europa Tischfräsen viel weiter verbreitet sind als in zB USA, weswegen man hier Dado-Sets kaum kennt weil man meist für sowas Verstellnuter benutzt. Manche Techniken sind sehr "lokal" verbreitet.
Now the only question left is why.
its a decorative element, usually for trim pieces.
Or chairs. Seat and backs can be made this way. Victorian houses sometime have wooden external cladding that can be made this way. There are numerous cases where this might be useful. If course, you could also use planers with special blades etc pp. It is AN option, not THE ONLY option.
Have you looked at the price of store-bought mouldings?
Making cornice dumbo ;)
Ölçüleri nasıl ayarlıyorsun
insan gerçekten utanıyor....bizim (bazılarında) insanımızda hiç mi görgü, adabı muaşeret kalmadı arkadaş...soru soruyorsunuz hiç nezaket yok,teşekkür yok ,takdir yok ...biz bu hale nasıl geldik anlamıyorum ...tmm herkes öyle değil ama var olan miktar bile bize yakışmıyor...değiştirin kendinizi
Isn't supposed to be dangerous cutting side ways ?
Very cool.
Whether there is common sense, I have my doubts about that!
This method has been used for a long time.
Great!!! Just wish to god you could talk and tell us some info, otherwise it is entertainment.
Eso ya no es carpintería. Eso es ARTE!
you are genious
I used this technique to make a competition water ski in 1967 high school shop. The competition skis at the time had a full length cove on the bottom.
It makes a horrible sound, but works great with a good fence and downforce on the board.
I learned one thing.😉👍
Now thats good.
😍😍😍
jo so was ähnliches habe ich auch schon gemacht auf der Tischsäge
Los números que le pones son los grados alos que se pone la tijera que hiciste
Much faster than my miter saw method employing depth stop, though I feel a bit safer. Idk this looks like potential kick back city if force gets applied incorrectly.
'If' ... provided one understands the reasons why kickback happens and takes steps to avoid it. It's perfectly fine. It's only dangerous for that, don't know.
Norm Abram done this 35 years ago.
आज से 40 साल पहले ये आविष्कार मैं कर चुका था ।
Ein Brett als Führung fest spannen geht schneller. Gerade weil man es so oft braucht.
😉👍
Ok great. It's too short for moldings. So what are you doing with this stuff? Using for crafts?
Mainly used in molding making
What on earth do you use the curved pieces for. I mean, interesting video, but the practicality is nil? Are you really going to make money from all this effort?
Probably just for something decorative.
Possibly a guitar fretboard radius sanding block?
Good for hiding those TV Cable hanging from the wall towards the floor!!!
@@peterstevens6555 You can buy things to conceal cables. They aren't very expensive and you do not have to worry about chopping your fingers off.
@@wesbaumguardner8829 Not here in New Zealand ...
Genius.
Das hab ich während der Ausbildung gemacht.
Tablesaw cove cutting has been around for at least 100 years! IMHO, this design is the best I've ever seen but still lacks two features; the ability of the fixture to hold the workpiece against the fence and down onto the table. Adding feather boards for both is recommended for control during milling, which will produce a.smother cut. Also, making narrow coves is better done with a router table or a shaper.
Asymmetric coves are possible by leveling the saw blade but this type of cut requires the additional safety and control of the aforementioned feather boards.
That's beveling, not leveling.Sorry
I was doing this 30+ years ago !
thank you the senior.👍😉
I looked and looked but never found your video on RUclips.
💯👍
Obviously highly skilled but he makes the mistake of using at tiny push stick leaving his fingers exposed to the saw blade. I got rid of the radial arm saw when I realized I could do it all with a compound bevel chop saw and 12" table saw. To me the most used large tool in my shop is the table saw.
I wish I could understand this 😅
저 방법 절대 사용하지 마세요..~~!
아주 위험합니다.
조금만 힘을 잘못 주거나 틀어지면 바로
킥백입니다..손가락 그냥 골절됩니다.
아주 아주 위험하니..절대 하지 마세요!
주위에 여러 당행했으니 손가락 그냥 날리려면..해보세요~~!!!!
Im Gegensatz zum Scheuklappenblick beweist der Mann Einfallsreichtum. Bin sehr beeindruckt.