Always interesting to see other woodworkers ideas and methods. I'm usually about 80% through a project when the "I should've filmed this thought arises"
A follow up comment. After spending an afternoon fiddling around with things I was able to adapt your design to my non-availability of a shop. I used an old shelf for the base, glued a strip of wood along the back edge, marked off in half inch increments. Using the small strip along the back I can precut my rabbit. Refinements include bolting it down to the bed of my saw so I can remove it when done. A better stop block for the left side and just some other general improvements. I have feeling it will be a continuous “work in progress”, thanks for the basic idea.
I have never gotten perfect miters straight from the saw, jig or no jig. My saw is simply not accurate enough. Yours must be better. Your jig is great. Very smart. Thanks!
@@CasualDIY This is a 12" DeWalt compound miter. It's not for picture making. No matter what I do, those 1/4 degrees add up. I have an old 10" Makita non beveling that I'm sure will do very accurate miters, but I haven't yet set it up. Thanks so much for your personal reply. That means a lot. Best of success in woodworking and all your endeavors.
Tomasz, That is a real handy jig, it would make life a lot easier making frames for my art. Did you ever make that video on making frames my specific size paintings etc. Only I can't find it. Thank you.
Nice jig ... not criticising, but a couple of locating pins (or bolts with wing nuts) on the horizontal surface would mean you could quickly add/remove the jig, rather than having to deal with bolts 👍
Thansks Tomasz - great jig. You screwed in the t-tracks into the chipboard. Do you have a link to the screws you're using as the screws that come with my t-track would go straight through the routed dado in my 18mm ply.....
All well and good. However what about the rabbit cut,slot? How do you account for that without having to go through all the math ? It seems you will cut the rabbit after cutting the frame. I think I can take your design and make it do what I want with some modification. Thanks for the idea!
Do you always depend on the outer dimension to make the cut even if you are cutting a frame with a rabbit? I don't see how the stop can set that for you since that's the actual size you are concerned with. The width of the moulding can dictate the length. True?
I am thinking the ID is +1/8 over the art size or matting, plus 2x the width of the back of the frame, not the overall width. The 2x is for the equal leg of the 45 degree cut in the long dimension. This gives the overall outer length that you are making here.
Depends on the shape and if you can have it in a stable position. Although not tried it myself on it yet. All the shaping of my frames are done afterwards when the frame is cut to size. Just find it easier that way
Nice jig, however did you say precision cut? You don't get good precision when you're eyeballing your stop which is a good centimeter below the tape line. finish the job
@@CasualDIY I get it you're very resourceful using what you have I do the same really all you need to do is add a little block at the top to line up with the ruler
This is the 3rd time you are using timber from a bed if you keep cutting up your beds for your projects it will not be long before all the family is sleeping on the floor.😜😂
Tomasz…..I LOVE it. That’s a jig I’ve got to have!
@laurielyon7740 well worth making, it's been very useful around my workshop 👍
Always interesting to see other woodworkers ideas and methods. I'm usually about 80% through a project when the "I should've filmed this thought arises"
Hehe just put a camera on in your workshop and leave it on 👍😁
Great jig! That will come in very handy. My to-do-list is getting longer again.
Great to hear 👍
I will make one a bit smaller, thanks Tom for the tutorial and clear instructions. 😊😊😊😊
You’re welcome 😊
A follow up comment. After spending an afternoon fiddling around with things I was able to adapt your design to my non-availability of a shop. I used an old shelf for the base, glued a strip of wood along the back edge, marked off in half inch increments. Using the small strip along the back I can precut my rabbit. Refinements include bolting it down to the bed of my saw so I can remove it when done. A better stop block for the left side and just some other general improvements. I have feeling it will be a continuous “work in progress”, thanks for the basic idea.
Glad that my video was some inspiration 👍
wonderful, cheers from the US, Paul
Thank you for watching 👍
Wonerful, was in the look for a picture frame for a MITER saw, thanks aLOT
Glad you like it 👍
Hi Tomasz, that's definitely a jig I shall be making. Looking forward to the follow-up videos too! 👍
Cool, thanks👍😁 they will come soon
Great jig. Thanks.
Thank you for watching 👍
I have never gotten perfect miters straight from the saw, jig or no jig. My saw is simply not accurate enough. Yours must be better. Your jig is great. Very smart. Thanks!
Well usually you should be able to set up your saw so it will give you accurate cuts
@@CasualDIY This is a 12" DeWalt compound miter. It's not for picture making. No matter what I do, those 1/4 degrees add up. I have an old 10" Makita non beveling that I'm sure will do very accurate miters, but I haven't yet set it up. Thanks so much for your personal reply. That means a lot. Best of success in woodworking and all your endeavors.
@@carlosreira413 no problem and thank you very much
Brilliant! Just what I was looking for. Thanks!
thank you for watching
excellent simple jig. great job
Thank you kindly
Tomasz, That is a real handy jig, it would make life a lot easier making frames for my art. Did you ever make that video on making frames my specific size paintings etc. Only I can't find it. Thank you.
I don't think I have to be honest
Nice jig
Thanks
Nice jig ... not criticising, but a couple of locating pins (or bolts with wing nuts) on the horizontal surface would mean you could quickly add/remove the jig, rather than having to deal with bolts 👍
True 👍 good point and improvement 👍
Great jig.
Thank you
Excellent!!
Many thanks!
Thansks Tomasz - great jig. You screwed in the t-tracks into the chipboard. Do you have a link to the screws you're using as the screws that come with my t-track would go straight through the routed dado in my 18mm ply.....
Bought a bunch in my local DIY store. So no link sorry.
Really excellent jig, Tomasz! 😃
It seems to work great!
Stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊
Thanks 👍
Yes works great 👍
After your frame is done and you remove the jig, how do you re-align the jig when you put it back on the saw ?😊😊
With the bolts that go throug the saws fence. As showed on the video 👍
Do you have a parts list of where I can find the tape measure, knob, bolts that fit in slots . . .? Very nice.
T-Track - amzn.to/3o5pfFY
Self Adhesive Tape Measure - amzn.to/3Kx9aAe
T-Slot Bolts M6 - amzn.to/43t10BO
M6 knobs - amzn.to/3GBU5ML
That will save some time Tomasz 👍
Yes its very simple to use and quick to set up
Interesting jig Tomasz 👍, I've got one for the table saw based on the Michael Alm version. Looking forward to the follow up videos 😁.
Thank you. I was thinking of making one for my table saw but in the end went for this one
@@CasualDIY yeah, it can be a bit unwieldy in a small workshop, but I do like how it accounts for the frame rebate when cutting to size.
All well and good. However what about the rabbit cut,slot? How do you account for that without having to go through all the math ? It seems you will cut the rabbit after cutting the frame. I think I can take your design and make it do what I want with some modification. Thanks for the idea!
Yes I cut it after cutting the frame, find it easier. But yes its all about inspiration and making the jig better 👍
Do you always depend on the outer dimension to make the cut even if you are cutting a frame with a rabbit? I don't see how the stop can set that for you since that's the actual size you are concerned with. The width of the moulding can dictate the length. True?
I do calculate that before hand, rabbet size and then final frame size. So in the end I only need the frame dimensions for the jig.
I am thinking the ID is +1/8 over the art size or matting, plus 2x the width of the back of the frame, not the overall width. The 2x is for the equal leg of the 45 degree cut in the long dimension. This gives the overall outer length that you are making here.
Hi Tomasz, a neat and clever jig. How well does it work with moulded picture frames? Mike
Depends on the shape and if you can have it in a stable position. Although not tried it myself on it yet. All the shaping of my frames are done afterwards when the frame is cut to size. Just find it easier that way
Nice jig, however did you say precision cut? You don't get good precision when you're eyeballing your stop which is a good centimeter below the tape line. finish the job
Yes I wanted to add a t-track on top of the fence and add a movable indicator but I have ran out of t-tracks 😅
@@CasualDIY I get it you're very resourceful using what you have I do the same really all you need to do is add a little block at the top to line up with the ruler
@@CasualDIYjust use a taller stop block.
Hi Tomasz, you need to empty your cyclone! Mike
Hehe you are not wrong sir
This is the 3rd time you are using timber from a bed if you keep cutting up your beds for your projects it will not be long before all the family is sleeping on the floor.😜😂
😅 keep finding them in skips, chip board, its always chip board 🤣
@@CasualDIY I love laminated chip boards from old kitchen cabinets. Straight edges, perfect 90 degree corners and for free.