Did this today on my '99 Corsa B, after watching this video. One recommendation from me would be to not use the straw they provide, this gives a much finer spray and doesn't waste so much product. Apparently, it works better to build up fine coats, as opposed to one heavy one. I also used Dynax S50 with a long straw to do inside the chassis legs.
Did my rear wheel arches after removing liners on my 2005 Saab Aero convertible - lucky to be able to use a lift - rest of car is waxoyled - used their other cavity wax to to doors and inside sills as it comes with long lance - impressive stuff 👌
Hi. Thanks for the informative video. My Lexus is badly rusty underneath. I'm thinking of scraping down and then going with Jenolite rust converter spray. But then either Bilt Hamber SC50, or there's a newer product Bilt Hamber Electrox. Which one would you reckon?
Hi Simon. You’re welcome. I would say Definitely S50 over Electrox as the latter would be better on a restored surface which is completely free of corrosion. S50 will cover existing rust (converted of course as would be better in the long run) and heal itself if compromised. Also you’ll get some cavity protection with S50. Also Bilt Hamber do a rust converter which i’ve used and it’s pretty much the same as Kurust 🤙
If there is rust already there, i would always advise grind back, rust convert, re-paint and then treat. BUT i’m a realist, if you’re just trying to prevent further rust but don’t want to do a full restoration/repair then yes rust convert first. I’d at least spray some primer over the affected area first though maybe?
@@blade8768 thanks bud really appreciate it. Yeh i’ve just re-applied on my other car and i cleaned all the old coating (and dirt) off and started again. I did all the tubs and even the shockers/springs aswell (can’t hurt to coat everything to be fair)
@@blade8768 no not that messy mate. Just used some old (clean) rags and brake cleaner or degreaser. Comes off really easy. Wipe it all off and make sure everything is clean and re-apply. Really easy mate.
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bro look at the haze, protect your lungs!
Way better then Lanoshite. UC and SC50 are dope! 💥
Did this today on my '99 Corsa B, after watching this video. One recommendation from me would be to not use the straw they provide, this gives a much finer spray and doesn't waste so much product. Apparently, it works better to build up fine coats, as opposed to one heavy one.
I also used Dynax S50 with a long straw to do inside the chassis legs.
Did my rear wheel arches after removing liners on my 2005 Saab Aero convertible - lucky to be able to use a lift - rest of car is waxoyled - used their other cavity wax to to doors and inside sills as it comes with long lance - impressive stuff 👌
Part 1 and this video have been very helpful. Cheers mate.
You're welcome Ian and thanks for the nice comment really appreciate it mate 🙂
Hi. Thanks for the informative video. My Lexus is badly rusty underneath. I'm thinking of scraping down and then going with Jenolite rust converter spray. But then either Bilt Hamber SC50, or there's a newer product Bilt Hamber Electrox. Which one would you reckon?
Hi Simon. You’re welcome. I would say Definitely S50 over Electrox as the latter would be better on a restored surface which is completely free of corrosion. S50 will cover existing rust (converted of course as would be better in the long run) and heal itself if compromised. Also you’ll get some cavity protection with S50. Also Bilt Hamber do a rust converter which i’ve used and it’s pretty much the same as Kurust 🤙
Do you have to apply Rust Converter first? Or can you just clean the rust with brush and spray away?
If there is rust already there, i would always advise grind back, rust convert, re-paint and then treat. BUT i’m a realist, if you’re just trying to prevent further rust but don’t want to do a full restoration/repair then yes rust convert first. I’d at least spray some primer over the affected area first though maybe?
His the uc holding up
Spot on still a good thick coat. Haven’t used car in wet much so i’m guessing this helps. Really happy with it
And you would do this treatment every when year?
Yes if you can but i’ve seen it last longer so could go every 2 years. Depends on how often you use the vehicle.
Would you use the same stuff for all the arches aswell, clean all the dirt of ect and apply? Thanks for the advice you gave yourself a new subscriber
@@blade8768 thanks bud really appreciate it. Yeh i’ve just re-applied on my other car and i cleaned all the old coating (and dirt) off and started again. I did all the tubs and even the shockers/springs aswell (can’t hurt to coat everything to be fair)
@@carrevival8200 how did you go about cleaning the old coating that was applied off? Is it a messy job or does it comes off ok
@@blade8768 no not that messy mate. Just used some old (clean) rags and brake cleaner or degreaser. Comes off really easy. Wipe it all off and make sure everything is clean and re-apply. Really easy mate.