Wow, cart springs ! I've found that using a 2-quid plant sprayer gets less of a fine aerosol effect and less chance of drift. It's good enough for underneath. Well done for persevering in the cold.
It is very strange as Liam did Mindy last Wednesday and then washed it straight after but to be fair even before washing there didn’t appear to be any overspray on the bodywork. I wonder if it’s something to do with how fine you had the sprayer nozzle set? Liam had it set so that it wasn’t much of a mist it literally squirted out quite direct. I could be completely wrong though (wouldn’t be the first time 🙄)
You can use either white spirit or 'panel wipe' degreaser (5 litres about £20) from a car parts / paints supplier to get rid of waxy deposits. You have to be careful if you try to buff waxy deposits off the paintwork, because fine grit may have become embedded within it while driving. This grit will act as an abrasive when you try to buff away the waxy deposits and scratch the paintwork.
The stuff is designed to be sprayed with water and salt over and over again and not come off! But nearly anything comes off if you use the right solvent or chemical to dissolve it or react with it. I would just buy the cleaner! £16 to save you a lot of experimentation and effort.
Hey from Pennsylvania , hope you got this stuff off your car . We use Fluid Film , Surface Shield and WoolWax here in the state s and they all can be a burden to get off of a surface you did not intend to spray it on . The good news is no or damn little rust
I did it on a zero wind car but managed to cover my neighbours Skoda Yeti in it which is 3 car widths away. I washed it off but was much harder as the skoda had no wax at all on it, whilst my passat is well waxed so came off relatively easily. But i must admit i dont understand why overspray is not mentioned as its a massive problem. I spent the best part of 8 hours getting the stuff off the skoda including in the end using a machine polisher, which saw the car gleaming better then it ever has.
Thanks for watching, alot of people have kindly commented that the cold conditions probably didn't help the situation so maybe that's why 🤷. It's not the end of the world, I got it off just took a bit more elbow grease than I had planned 😅
Sounds like a good job. I used a wire brush and then Waxoyl. I was hoping Lanoshield would be a cleaner method, apparently not! Nice A40 by the way, still looks stylish for a classic car.
Steam cleaning is where pressurised steam and water are mixed to blast clean a surface, hot water through a jet washers is no comparrison, as the steam cleans every thing inc most greasy sufaces. I have used Waxoyl sine the 1970s and had the good fortune to visit the factory and see it being manufactured I still use it today, as in my opinon there is no comparison, high impact areas such as wheel arches only need a top up every couple of years the remainder of the body panels one good coat and forget it !
Thanks for the comment and the info on steam cleaning! Sounds like I need one of those steam cleaners 😉 I do like waxoyl when I have used it on the arches. Might go for that next time. Thanks for watching 👍
just Lanoshield'ed my MR2, 18degrees sunny left the bottle in hot water for an hour before application, no issues with sprayer was excellent, what wasn't was getiing my head and bare arms covered in the stuff.....had to use GT85 in the shower to get it off. Bit of overspray on my motorbike nearby if you wash quicky comes off easy from waxed paintwork. Think I used too much tbh got about a litre left....got another couple of cars to do. Usually use Bilt Hamber but thought I would give this a go.......car is only used on dry days and garaged so will leave it 12months.
I think we learned some lessons from applying this, applying it during the winter was a mistake but we live and learn. We did find the instructions were pretty poor but now we have applied it to two cars I think we have a better understanding. Applying it to our MG midget has proved so far to be doing very well, so we will check its progress once its been on for 12 months. Thank you again.
Perfect to use, obviously place a blanket over the roof? I’ve just used it and no misting or overspray, however petrol or white spirit. Only issue I had was poor trigger bottle which they kindly replaced but new one failled too.
For glass a razor blade (single edged so you can hold it) will quickly remove the majority this kind of contamination, and glass polish (e.g. autoglym) will leave it sparkling. A solvent is the way to go on the paint, I suspect one of the tar remover products would work ok.
I wouldn't apply it at night in winter. I would choose a dry day in a shaded area in summer. To ensure I am not sealing any moisture underneath the underseal. Especially if it has been pressure washed in winter in cold conditions, applying at night even is winter has more moisture in the atmosphere.
Evening, no I haven't tried it in any enclosed areas. I have seen some people say it smells bad, like 🐑 but it doesn't. Smells like linseed oil in my opinion. I don't see why you couldn't apply it to door panels but I wouldn't apply it to anything you would touch or see as it's not aesthetically pleasing
You dont want to use these products in minus 1c , it may be warmed up in a bowl but will thicken instantly on contact with cold panels - therefor not penertrating or running into into the seams . so not doing the job you expect of it ..this is a high summer job only - you are going to get overspray with every produt available, no escape from that, .never tried lanoguard myself only waxoyl, .but i would expect bad results with any product used in deep winter. probably petrol would have got it off, be very quick ..petrol ..then washing up liquid water mix to get the greasey petrol off . panel wipe (naphtha) will also work but is very expensive .
I think he's wrong. The big advantage of the lanolin coatings is the ease of spraying. Waxoyl is a nightmare unless the weather is warm and you have a compressor and dedicated wax spray gun.
Lanoguard cleaner is absolutely what you should have on stand by. Wrong time of year to use this treatment as others have commented. I warm Lanoguard in the oven before use even in the summer(or leave in direct sunlight) as it flows much better. Lanoguard grease is good too. I use on all bolts that are not affected by heat from engine etc. That needs warming too
the instructions on this product is pretty poor and it did say in cold weather heat in a bowl of warm water, there is no details of what those low temperatures are, but i guess we learn by these mistakes. thanks for the tip. Lanoguard will be next years go to i think.
the instructions on this product is pretty poor and it did say in cold weather heat in a bowl of warm water, there is no details of what those low temperatures are, but i guess we learn by these mistakes. thanks for the tip.
There are a lot of products out there with downsides that aren't mentioned in the main brochure/website. Thanks for bringing it to the attention of others. Have recently(hours ago) ordered a kit, will need to go back and order some remover as well...pft.
Good review, not sure I like the sound of its use, do you think it would have been better if the spraying was done in a garage, would that have stopped the over spray? Hope it all cleans up OK on your lovely A40, All the best Bob
Hi Bob, I believe it would, Liam did his MG in the slightly warmer weather, and virtually no wind. He said it went on well but the lack of instructions and modification he had to do to the spray lance was disappointing.
I use a product that is cheap, is effective, has creeping / penetrating properties, oxidizes and forms a hard protective layer all in one. It's also environmentally friendly. It's so good at penetrating that it's one of the few product that can be put on existing rust and it will get into the rust and down to bare metal and stop the corrosion. It gets into seams and stops hidden rust attacks, when it oxidizes it expands and seals the joint too. What is this wonder product? Some kind of new nano tech shield super duper bullshit? No it's plain old raw linseed oil that you can buy in any old hardware store. Mind you get the raw linseed oil, the boiled linseed oil won't penetrate anywhere as well. It should also be applied in summer, and the car should be washed afterwards to prevent any linseed oil from drying on the paint, or it will not come off without the paint itself.
Pity it can putrefy quite quickly and that rancid smell stays for a while. Try to use it as soon as you open the container. I don't use linseed in doors and frames just for that reason.
So you didn't think it out and now blaming the product for what it does, I looked on the site and it does not recommend applying it the way you have done plus it must be dry, before being applied, also common sense would tell you to cover the paint work with old sheets or paint covers and I do not think it will effect the products reputation, but perhaps yours! But good video on what not to do🤣
I'm sure a wipe down with panel wipe or pre paint would have taken the resudue off no problem. But I don't see what is so special about this product versus something like Waxoyl. It just looks thinner and probably less protective. Especially on classics there's no such thing as a wonder product. A 60 year old car underside needs all the help it can get.
Along with some of your paint probably! You need to use something that attacks the Lanoguard and not the other materials of your car lol! All these suggestions of what to use: the first thing I would try is Lanoguard's cleaner which has presumably been designed to clean it off without also cleaning the paint, plastic, etc off your car 😂
DO NOT EVER USE ACETONE! Jeeezus. It may not apply to your car but on any other get some cheap paint coated part like fuel door and check solvents first. Wow, acetone. I'd not put IPA here either ;p
I did 2 cars and noticed the over spray after the 1st car even though I was careful. Slight wind and it will pick it up on to the body of the car. On 2nd car I taped bin bags around the bottom side of the car all around to stop the wind picking up any over spray which worked. Also forgot to mention... Avoid spraying on exhaust. Its not a fire issue as it doesn't catch fire but once it gets hot and until it burns off the exhaust, it will smoke and will smell of burnt a bit. Other than these 2 issues it works perfectly 👍
Maybe try eggwhites mixed with coke to clean it?
This sounds very sensible! Add some flour as well?
Wow, cart springs ! I've found that using a 2-quid plant sprayer gets less of a fine aerosol effect and less chance of drift. It's good enough for underneath. Well done for persevering in the cold.
Great tip!
It is very strange as Liam did Mindy last Wednesday and then washed it straight after but to be fair even before washing there didn’t appear to be any overspray on the bodywork. I wonder if it’s something to do with how fine you had the sprayer nozzle set? Liam had it set so that it wasn’t much of a mist it literally squirted out quite direct. I could be completely wrong though (wouldn’t be the first time 🙄)
I agree, it looked too fine in the video and you could see the droplets floating around.
I jacked up one side, wheels off, spray everything, wheels on, repeat the other side. No overspray.
Thanks Steve, sounds like a good plan 👍🏻
You can use either white spirit or 'panel wipe' degreaser (5 litres about £20) from a car parts / paints supplier to get rid of waxy deposits.
You have to be careful if you try to buff waxy deposits off the paintwork, because fine grit may have become embedded within it while driving. This grit will act as an abrasive when you try to buff away the waxy deposits and scratch the paintwork.
Yep there all sort of options as it turns out even good old brake cleaner
The stuff is designed to be sprayed with water and salt over and over again and not come off! But nearly anything comes off if you use the right solvent or chemical to dissolve it or react with it. I would just buy the cleaner! £16 to save you a lot of experimentation and effort.
agreed, thats what we did in the end, just a shame Lanoshield don't do the cleaner and we had to get Lanoguard but hay ho. thanks for the comment.
Hey from Pennsylvania , hope you got this stuff off your car . We use Fluid Film , Surface Shield and WoolWax here in the state s and they all can be a burden to get off of a surface you did not intend to spray it on . The good news is no or damn little rust
Hi Private, it came off in the end with a good DA polish. You are right though, it keeps the rust at bay!! Thanks for watching 👍
If it 'has' drifted has it settled on your house windows ?
No house was not touched, well glass anyway.
I did it on a zero wind car but managed to cover my neighbours Skoda Yeti in it which is 3 car widths away. I washed it off but was much harder as the skoda had no wax at all on it, whilst my passat is well waxed so came off relatively easily. But i must admit i dont understand why overspray is not mentioned as its a massive problem. I spent the best part of 8 hours getting the stuff off the skoda including in the end using a machine polisher, which saw the car gleaming better then it ever has.
I agree! I bet your neighbour was pleased though 😂
@rustenuts she was pleased when I had finished probably the cleanest her pile of Junk Yeti had ever been. I went to bed cursing Lanoguard.
When I did my car I didn't get overspray like you did!
Thanks for watching, alot of people have kindly commented that the cold conditions probably didn't help the situation so maybe that's why 🤷. It's not the end of the world, I got it off just took a bit more elbow grease than I had planned 😅
Sounds like a good job. I used a wire brush and then Waxoyl. I was hoping Lanoshield would be a cleaner method, apparently not! Nice A40 by the way, still looks stylish for a classic car.
Thanks Peter!
Steam cleaning is where pressurised steam and water are mixed to blast clean a surface, hot water through a jet washers is no comparrison, as the steam cleans every thing inc most greasy sufaces. I have used Waxoyl sine the 1970s and had the good fortune to visit the factory and see it being manufactured I still use it today, as in my opinon there is no comparison, high impact areas such as wheel arches only need a top up every couple of years the remainder of the body panels one good coat and forget it !
Thanks for the comment and the info on steam cleaning! Sounds like I need one of those steam cleaners 😉 I do like waxoyl when I have used it on the arches. Might go for that next time. Thanks for watching 👍
just Lanoshield'ed my MR2, 18degrees sunny left the bottle in hot water for an hour before application, no issues with sprayer was excellent, what wasn't was getiing my head and bare arms covered in the stuff.....had to use GT85 in the shower to get it off. Bit of overspray on my motorbike nearby if you wash quicky comes off easy from waxed paintwork. Think I used too much tbh got about a litre left....got another couple of cars to do. Usually use Bilt Hamber but thought I would give this a go.......car is only used on dry days and garaged so will leave it 12months.
I think we learned some lessons from applying this, applying it during the winter was a mistake but we live and learn. We did find the instructions were pretty poor but now we have applied it to two cars I think we have a better understanding. Applying it to our MG midget has proved so far to be doing very well, so we will check its progress once its been on for 12 months. Thank you again.
Perfect to use, obviously place a blanket over the roof? I’ve just used it and no misting or overspray, however petrol or white spirit. Only issue I had was poor trigger bottle which they kindly replaced but new one failled too.
my trigger failed also, product seems good and the lasting results appear to be favourable.
If rhe vapours are difficult to get off from overspray, then the intended application must do the job well!
very true indeed
@@rustenuts And the inside of your lungs?
@@hughlevins2526 made predominantly from oils from sheep's wool, far less toxic than the likes of waxoil etc. If still concerned wear a mask maybe!?
For glass a razor blade (single edged so you can hold it) will quickly remove the majority this kind of contamination, and glass polish (e.g. autoglym) will leave it sparkling. A solvent is the way to go on the paint, I suspect one of the tar remover products would work ok.
good tip thank you
I wouldn't apply it at night in winter. I would choose a dry day in a shaded area in summer. To ensure I am not sealing any moisture underneath the underseal. Especially if it has been pressure washed in winter in cold conditions, applying at night even is winter has more moisture in the atmosphere.
I think you are right, lessons learned.
It is best to heat it to 70-80° and spray at a temperature above 21°. I use Carbusonic Lanoclear
Yeah temp is essential as we found out. Can't say i have heard of that one, we will have to check it out. Thank you
Ironically it shows it is good if you cannot get it off.
Yeah no arguing its abilities.
I mean not really. You’d struggle to get super glue off it. Doesn’t mean super glue is good at preventing rust
Have you tried to apply it inside the car ie door panels and any closed area?
Evening, no I haven't tried it in any enclosed areas. I have seen some people say it smells bad, like 🐑 but it doesn't. Smells like linseed oil in my opinion. I don't see why you couldn't apply it to door panels but I wouldn't apply it to anything you would touch or see as it's not aesthetically pleasing
You dont want to use these products in minus 1c , it may be warmed up in a bowl but will thicken instantly on contact with cold panels - therefor not penertrating or running into into the seams . so not doing the job you expect of it ..this is a high summer job only - you are going to get overspray with every produt available, no escape from that, .never tried lanoguard myself only waxoyl, .but i would expect bad results with any product used in deep winter. probably petrol would have got it off, be very quick ..petrol ..then washing up liquid water mix to get the greasey petrol off . panel wipe (naphtha) will also work but is very expensive .
you are right, I think lessons learned.
I think he's wrong.
The big advantage of the lanolin coatings is the ease of spraying.
Waxoyl is a nightmare unless the weather is warm and you have a compressor and dedicated wax spray gun.
@@offshoretomorrow3346 is he me or the video uploader
Is this stuff safe for your lungs while you are spraying it on ?
Hi Sidney! I would say no. They do claim it's all natural but can't be good to breathe it in. Thanks for the comment and watching 👍
Lanoguard cleaner is absolutely what you should have on stand by. Wrong time of year to use this treatment as others have commented. I warm Lanoguard in the oven before use even in the summer(or leave in direct sunlight) as it flows much better. Lanoguard grease is good too. I use on all bolts that are not affected by heat from engine etc. That needs warming too
the instructions on this product is pretty poor and it did say in cold weather heat in a bowl of warm water, there is no details of what those low temperatures are, but i guess we learn by these mistakes. thanks for the tip. Lanoguard will be next years go to i think.
You should really be applying it in warmer weather. I was told you run the risk of sealing in damp between the metal and the product being applied.
the instructions on this product is pretty poor and it did say in cold weather heat in a bowl of warm water, there is no details of what those low temperatures are, but i guess we learn by these mistakes. thanks for the tip.
There are a lot of products out there with downsides that aren't mentioned in the main brochure/website. Thanks for bringing it to the attention of others. Have recently(hours ago) ordered a kit, will need to go back and order some remover as well...pft.
Glad it was helpful!
Good review, not sure I like the sound of its use, do you think it would have been better if the spraying was done in a garage, would that have stopped the over spray? Hope it all cleans up OK on your lovely A40, All the best Bob
Hi Bob, I believe it would, Liam did his MG in the slightly warmer weather, and virtually no wind. He said it went on well but the lack of instructions and modification he had to do to the spray lance was disappointing.
@@rustenuts Not sure if it’s worth it, all the little oil leeks that spray the underside will do the trick!!!!
I use a product that is cheap, is effective, has creeping / penetrating properties, oxidizes and forms a hard protective layer all in one. It's also environmentally friendly.
It's so good at penetrating that it's one of the few product that can be put on existing rust and it will get into the rust and down to bare metal and stop the corrosion. It gets into seams and stops hidden rust attacks, when it oxidizes it expands and seals the joint too.
What is this wonder product? Some kind of new nano tech shield super duper bullshit? No it's plain old raw linseed oil that you can buy in any old hardware store. Mind you get the raw linseed oil, the boiled linseed oil won't penetrate anywhere as well. It should also be applied in summer, and the car should be washed afterwards to prevent any linseed oil from drying on the paint, or it will not come off without the paint itself.
Nice tip, never thought Linseed. thank you for the comment.
What he Said … Linseed oil is the best and cheapest
Pity it can putrefy quite quickly and that rancid smell stays for a while. Try to use it as soon as you open the container. I don't use linseed in doors and frames just for that reason.
A solvent based or strong alkali degrease/tfr will remove it.
Thanks Paul 👍🏻
So you didn't think it out and now blaming the product for what it does, I looked on the site and it does not recommend applying it the way you have done plus it must be dry, before being applied, also common sense would tell you to cover the paint work with old sheets or paint covers and I do not think it will effect the products reputation, but perhaps yours! But good video on what not to do🤣
Thanks for watching William, really appreciate it 👍
@@rustenuts😂
Possibly worth covering the car up with a cheap car cover
Yep I think you are right John. Some people commenting didn't have any problems so may have just been me and the conditions 🤷🏻
I've lanoguarded 2 vehicles and no issues with overspray whatsoever.
Thats good to hear, I think alot of it is down to conditions. On the Austin it was an issue on the MG it wasn't.
panel wipe , or use white spirit first then panel wipe ,,,
Thanks for the suggestion Tom, much appreciated 👍
I'm sure a wipe down with panel wipe or pre paint would have taken the resudue off no problem. But I don't see what is so special about this product versus something like Waxoyl. It just looks thinner and probably less protective.
Especially on classics there's no such thing as a wonder product.
A 60 year old car underside needs all the help it can get.
Great suggestion! I will give it a go. I hadn't even considered panel wipes 🤦 thanks for watching and taking the time to comment 👍
Waxoyl is great for cavities like the sills, but it doesn't last long at all on areas exposed to water splash.
Try tar an glue remover
Thanks for the suggestion and for watching!
Clay bar should remove it however you would need to machine polish after that
very good point
So you decided to wax under your car at minus 1 in the dark..just wow..
yep, worked remarkably well in the tough environment.
😁
Tar and glue remover will bring it off 😊
Oh good call, always worth a try. Thank you
wont be using these products! was tempted but they dont tell you about this hope you get it off that nice old a40
it came off but needed a lot of elbow grease. thank you
He did it all wrong, watch it again, cover the vehicle with sheets or something!
G101 multi purpose cleaner. Comes off a breeze
good shout 101 is amazing! :-)
What you do is wash your car body with very warm water and car shampoo immediately after you are finished spraying under.simple
Yep
Use acetone on loo roll will wipe straight off
Thanks for the suggestion 👍🏻
Along with some of your paint probably! You need to use something that attacks the Lanoguard and not the other materials of your car lol! All these suggestions of what to use: the first thing I would try is Lanoguard's cleaner which has presumably been designed to clean it off without also cleaning the paint, plastic, etc off your car 😂
DO NOT EVER USE ACETONE! Jeeezus.
It may not apply to your car but on any other get some cheap paint coated part like fuel door and check solvents first. Wow, acetone. I'd not put IPA here either ;p
Petrol on a cloth will clean it off no bother..
good shout, never thought of petrol. I use WD40 that worked ok, good shout about the petrol though.
@@rustenuts
Carb cleaner
Obviously the wind when you have sprade it has course it to go on your paint shame hope you get it off
it did come off fortunately using panel wipes.
I did 2 cars and noticed the over spray after the 1st car even though I was careful. Slight wind and it will pick it up on to the body of the car.
On 2nd car I taped bin bags around the bottom side of the car all around to stop the wind picking up any over spray which worked.
Also forgot to mention... Avoid spraying on exhaust.
Its not a fire issue as it doesn't catch fire but once it gets hot and until it burns off the exhaust, it will smoke and will smell of burnt a bit.
Other than these 2 issues it works perfectly 👍
Great advice thank you.
WD40
very true, WD can be used for many applications.
All lanolin products are too short term protection . Gimmicks
I think if you want to go longer term you would need to have the vehicle correctly prepped and then apply a longer lasting product