CORRECTION: I made a mistake in the slicer settings for Unified Bed Leveling. You need to add either M420 S1 or G29 A before the G29 L0 command. So the start G-Code should look something like this: ;Load Saved Mesh M420 S1; Activate Mesh Leveling G29 L0; Load Saved Mesh G29 J2; Probe 4 Points and Adjust the mesh I will have to note that when I make the video for Unified vs Bilinear Mesh
@@rickyhackett6703 G28 Should already be in your start gcode. You put the Load saved mesh gcodes after that. If it is not in your start g-code, it goes after set bed/extruder temp gcodes or before the purge/prime line gcodes
In CHEP's video he puts in the gcode. Then he explains that he looked over the source code of the firmware and it shows that it automatically loads the saved mesh if leveling is checked. He said the gcode lines are not necessary but that the redundancy will not hurt. I guess I will still do both. Thanks for the video.
This is explained so well and clearly. More people should take this as an example of how to give a good explanation of how something works. Thank you very much.
This is the best walk through I've seen on the Jyers software, thank you for making such a detailed video! **One note, I ended up putting my G29 code after the bed warm up command, so that the bed is warm when it goes to take a mesh!
Great video! Clear, structured and straight to the point. You saved my backside because I was quite frustrated with the stock marlin firmware. The live z offset and the manual bed levelling feature helped me a lot with setting up my BLtouch. Thank you too, to Jyers who designed such an elegant firmware. 👍👍👍
Thank you very much for this tutorial on Jyers firmware. You explained a couple of issues I had questions about that will help me pick the best version for me. You gained a sub.
Thank you. Very helpful for a newbie like me. I just installed it on an Ender 3 Pro with 4.2.7 board, digital screen display (knob) and the CR Touch. It's printing right now. First layer looks perfect.
Hi again Evan, Thank you again for your help for putting together this video. However, I do have a question regarding z-offset. I have installed Jyers Marlin v2.0.1 with BLTouch 3x3 grid. The problem that I think I have is: Nozzle z-height during first layer print is approximately 0.4mm above the print surface. Here's the steps that I did: 1. set an arbritary z-offset value that allow my nozzle to be close to the bed to do "manual bed leveling". Used your bed leveling pattern to achieve good tramming. 2. Set z-offset using the live-z-offset feature from the "prepare" menu. I use 0.2mm feeler gauge to achieve my desired z-offset. The value i obtained was -1.15mm 3. Saved the z-offset value 4. revisited "manual bed leveling" from prepare menu to cross check if all 5 points have similar nozzle-to-bed clearance using my 0.2 feeler gauge. Here's the chronology of my first 'bed leveling squares' print (appropriate starting gcode was added in cura. G29 was added after G28) 1. started print, BLTouch was probing the bed as expected 2. First and second line was drawn. 3. Upon starting the first square, I noticed that the filament was not sticking/squished at all. 4. Paused the print 5. use a feeler gauge to find the nozzle clearance. I found 0.4mm feeler gauge to fit snugly. My follow up bed-leveling-square print job was done with live-z-offset tuning. The final z-offset that I achieved was -1.35. I repeated the print again with the new z-offset value and was able to have similar result. When I rehome the print head and move the z height to "0", my nozzle just touches the print bed with close to 0.04mm clearance... Now... I am confused, what is the right definition of z-offset? hahahah. Was my z-offset methodology wrong? or is it my slicer setting that is incorrect? I am lost. Any pointer would be great. Been scouring the web and reddit but to no avail :( Oh, I also reflased the firmware with other Jyers Marlin firmware (except the UBL) Thank you so much in advanced Evan.
Btw, do I need to add the thickness of the feeler gauge (or paper) to the z-offset value? I have seen some video outlining that step during z-offset calibration. ruclips.net/video/y_1Kg45APko/видео.html
Simply put, the z-offset is the distance between the nozzle tip and the bltouch probe tip in the vertical direction. Z offset has no bearing on manual leveling. When you manual level the bed, all you are doing is tramming the bed to be parallel to the x axis linear rail. The rail that the printhead moves on. You should manual level your bed after you set the actual z offset value. When setting the z-offset, you are correct that you use the live z-offset adjust in the prepare menu. But I would suggest not using a 0.2mm feeler gauge for this. I understand the reasoning, since people often use a 0.2mm first layer height, they think a 0.2mm z feeler gauge should work, but I have found, and it seems so have you, that when using a 0.2mm feeler gauge that it is not quite close enough to get the required squish for the first layer. I would suggest using paper to set the zoffset. This works every time for me. You want the paper to be snug, but not buckle when you try to move it. The final z-offset value will depend on a few factors. But Just to give you a reference point, My printers z offset values range from 1.2mm up to 2.4mm. It all depends on the bltouch mounting set up you go with. Homing the printer takes the printer to its Z-safe home position. This position is whatever position is set in the firmware. This will position should not have the nozzle touching the print bed. There should be enough clearance for the bltouch probe tip to safely, and fully deploy without hitting the print bed.
@@EB3DPrinting alrighty, followed your advice on using paper instead and it worked 😁. And yes I did use a 0.2mm feeler gauge on the basis of first layer height. I did that because I felt that a piece of paper have different thickness depending on the paper GSM (the higher the GSM, the thicker the paper), so I thought by using a feeler gauge, I would circumvent the variable of different paper thickness. Anyhow, paper worked and I'm sticking to this methodology. Thank you again for your prompt response. Wishing you a successful channel and am looking forward to more videos from you Ps. Am using your fusion360 exercise video to polish my fusion360 skill. 👍
Within the 1st 5 minutes I've learn alot. I cant wait to muster up the courage to update my firmware. I tried once and failed miserably lol went back to stock firmware but I can tell you this watching videos like these gets me closer to actually getting this done
@@EB3DPrinting i will brotha thank you i just put a dual extruder with the Capricorn tubing , calibrated e steps ... that was fun but I nailed it lol now I'm getting stringing so I have a temp tower running now looks like 190° on the nozzle works best next ill do the retraction tower then ill give you guys a holla when I'm ready for that firmware 😎👍
Thank you so much for this guide and the providing the matching G-Code, made my firmware update pretty easy to follow and turned my Ender V2 into a new machine!
Wow what a brilliant video, have achieved so much from this so now I need to retry my levelling which I am hoping will now be successful. You explain things so well, very clear and most importantly in a language that's not scientific but easy for us newbies ... Thankyou so much
Great video and great timestamps and links. Thanks for your efforts. Sounds like a Nawlin's accent...takes one to know one. Keep up the good work...sub.
I'm struggling to compile the Jyers firmware with my larger bed size 12"x24"x8.25" (305mm x 610mm x 210mm). I can't get it to work from my compile. Any chance I could pay you to build it for me? Running Ender 3 V2 4.2.2. board. BLT, ideally High Speed 15x15. Also, struggling with DWIN_SET file, too. Have a part for work need to print out ASAP. Not sure if the offset for the BLT would have to be adjusted. For expanding the X-axis I just added 80mm in total. Thanks...
Very nicely put together tutorial many many thanks. You really took the time with this one best Ive seen yet. Up and running now. Maybe you could simplify the g code side but very good never the less.
@@EB3DPrinting no no you where brilliant its not a fault by any means. Just that showing 2 examples was a little miss leading is all. Please keep it up. Best ive watched yet 100%.
Me playing around with the new firmware and Ui. Played with the Z offset settings and watched the nozzle ignore the glass barrier like it was air. I had no idea those stepper motors have the torque of a wild Karen charging towards a innocent manager.
Thanks for a great tutorial, already did changed, works great, however got a question, when you change the G start code, i`m use CURA, do I have to put ; before the code? Thanks Man keep up the good work.
So we actually downloaded the ubl 15x15 mesh vs for the ender 3 v2 neo. And had to revert it back to creality software because of bugs. The biggest one being the z offset wouldn't change when you were changing it. It wouldn't always not work but when it did, I'd have to shut off the printer and turn it back on for it to work. Then it moved our Y and Z values way to the right. Granted, we did fix the axis issue by manually entering the mm it was off by then doing test prints, vut the z axis offset was a pain. I really wanted to keep jyers because of the ubl mesh was so cool just wasnt worth the z offset changing randomly and not being able to adjust it half of the time
@EB3D Printing i didnt even think to consider that. Thanks. If you have any other firmware you think would work for the ender 3v2 neo and make or have made a video it. Id love to learn about it
@@jakethesnake1245 I know there are at least two, there is like and ender 3 "professional firmware" and another one that starts with an M. Being completely honest though, I do not use any marlin based firmware any more so I'm not up to date on the latest offerings.
@EB3D Printing well i appreciate the help bud. Ice only been printing for less than a month. Run into one prob at a time with this thing haha. First it the bed wasnt staying level and the extruder was rubbing on the infill on travel moves, taking out any small supports after about a hour into the build. So i bought new springs and that didn't help then bought a second z axis rod and motor after noticing the gantry sagged to the right and that seem to help the bed level situation and the loud rubbing against the infill but its still knocking over small supports. The x axis gantry is level, checked my extrusion and even printed a calibration cube which printed at 20mm on the z, 19.9 on x and 20.1 on y which from looking it up said wasnt all bad. If you have any suggestions im all ears im trynot to turn on z hop cause of all the other bad that comes with that
After doing this my printer will no longer home the Z Axis. I have the BL Touch upgrade and everything was working fine before. I even tried reverting back to the old firmware and it's still not doing anything. I also tried disconnecting the BL Touch and installing the non BL Touch firmware and it still won't home Z. It will let me manually move Z up in settings, but it won't go down. Any ideas? I've had the printer for about a year. So I don't think it's a wiring or physical setup issue.
The first question I have is do you have a single white connector bltouch or a two connector bltouch? Check this guide to make sure your BLTouch Wiring is correct. smith3d.com/ender-3-v2-bltouch-firmware-installation-guide-by-smith3d-com/
how do i know if my 4.2.2 board is working my bltouch stopped working after upgrading and yes i tried going back and tried different stock ones but now my touch is no longer working. is there anyway to check the board
Just a heads up, might have already been mentioned. There is a F10 code in the cura settings after the M420 S1 command. The prusa settings are correct with the M420 S1 only. thanks for the vid.
Thank You for Your usedul tutorial! I successfully installed the firmware on my ender3v2 equibbed with 4.2.2 motherboard and i think it's features are awesome. Unfortunately when printing extruder seems to move extremely fast, despite the stoeed values appears to be exactly the same as stock firmware. I saw that this issue is already being reported but not yet fixed. I reinstall stock firmware but look forward to the fix to install it again.
I love the video, it's nice to see someone take the time to drill down and go more in-depth with content in general. It can definitely be confusing trying to decide which is the correct firmware to use. I understand that making sure you have the correct version mainboard and select the version with the BL touch (if you have it). But then you have versions of jyers out there that talk about bug fixes. It's still not clear to me which version to download for the Ender 3 V2 4.2.2. with BL Touch. I am currently running the bug fix version and I couldn't tell you more than that at the moment because I am in the middle of a print. Also, I haven't flashed the screen yet. Does it really matter? I seem to have all of the functions from just flashing the mainboard. I am also still confused about the leveling. So I created a new mesh, I have adjusted the Z offset and I can see where the bed is off by viewing the mesh. I go around and manually adjust the z offset through the interface where the bed is off. My question is, will I ever need to use the wheels under the hotbed to make any adjustments going forward? I think that's the part that confuses me still. I appreciate your videos and any assistance provided. I just shared all of your links with another enthusiast on Reddit haha hope I didn't confuse him too much, but he was having lots of problems with the creality update with BL touch that he just installed. Thank you
First. You don't need to flash the display, that's only if you want the fancy, but unnecessary icons. Second. The bed mesh tells you the highs and lows of the bed, green means high, red means low. Ideally you want you highest point and lowest point to be within 0.2mm of each other. As far as which version, I would suggest the bilinear 5x5 mesh. I run the high speed version. UBL is cool and all, but I feel it's overly complicated for as small of a bed as the ender 3 has.
I absolutely love the Jyers firmware but I am unable to "up the temp range" to 315 for my V2 printer and then get it to compile in VStudio for some reason. Has anyone compiled a BLtouch plus hotter temps that I can get? Thanks
Thank you for this video! Just the education I needed. :) I don't know if you mentioned it but when flashing the display your SD card should be as small as possible. I had to put my 32GB in a 8GB partion or else the display went to red directly after power on and then fail the flashing. And it has to be in FAT32. :P
I did not mention this. But this can also be a problem for some older mainboards as well. Where the limit to the SD card size is 8gb. Thanks for pointing this oit
My printers display will not update the progress bar or times remaining using OctoPrint. I have read the Wiki and have entered the lines of code from that page under OctoPrint settings but the screen still doesn't move through an entire print. Ideas on why? Thank You for the excellent tutorial....
Thanks so much. I actually hadnt used my printer for almost 9 months because I had given up on the bl touch, I had tried so many firmwares. Any suggestions on why after bl touch levelling the right side of my bed the nozzle is higher and the left side is lower? I can see it squishing the material on the left, and on the right it wont stick....
It is a good design, I had to modify it a bit though for the 5015. The lower part that the screws go into to hold the fan broke. So I beefed that up a bit and made the 5015 sort of snap in now as well.
Great video! Thanks. I have been running JyersUI v2.0.1 with 3x3 mesh leveling on my Ender 3 v2 printer (4.2.2 board) along with the updated screen firmware. I have ordered a BLTouch to add to my printer. I assume I need to re-flash my Ender firmware with - E3V2-BLTouch-3x3-v4.2.2-v2.0.1.bin, will I have to re flash the updated screen?
Wow, what a nice piece of work. I am running the btt E3 2.0 motherboard now, thus wondering how I can get some kind of diff files to remix this GUI package into my existing firmware based on BigTechTree...?
Thanks for this video. It is starting to explain some of the Jyers secrets. Is there anywhere a full explanation of all his menu items? For example, one can set print speed to a number, say 80. So what is 80 then, 80mm/s, 80% or what? If it is 80%, then 80% of what? I can see that the Jyers firmware has great potential but the lack of explanations and definitions makes it very difficult to work with. Anybody that can direct us to such a document or site?
Jyers is just a fork of Marlin firmware tailored to work with the Creality Ender 3v2. There is plenty of documentation on Marlin firmware out there. For a deep dive: marlinfw.org/docs/features/lcd_menu.html You can also search for Marlin Display Menu Items To answer your question. Print speed on the menu is a multiplyer of the current feature print speed. E.g. your wall speed is set to 40mm/s and infill set to 80mm/s. If your menu is displaying 50 for speed, that means it is printing at 50% of the requested speed. Your print walls are printing at 20mm/s and infill is printing at 40mm/s Fan speed is a direct %. 10% fan speed is 10%. Flow rate is also a multiplyer % but the displayed value can differ depending on the slicer used. Slicers that use a % value for flow typically display that %, and slicers that use a decimal value typically display 100%
Hello.Please help me with the choice of firmware on my printer, My motherboard version 4.2.2 is also equipped with filament sensor Touch sensors , which firmware should I choose specifically for my motherboard . My TFT display. How to flash the display to work with my motherboard. thank you in advance
Thank you for such a complete review. Could you let me know what firmware I would use on a 4.2.2 board with both the BLTouch and a filament runout sensor installed? Thank you for any help you can provide. Thank you.
Can you explain what z point offset is, under leveling/manual tuning/z point offset? It differs from the common z offset under prepare. I can't find any information on what this setting does
Hi. Great video thanks. Slightly off topic but how did you make those printed parts for the fans underneath please. They look loads better than the small internal fans
In my advanced menu load length is 100, is this in mm and is that the amount that is extruded when I go to prepare, change filament and then load filament, calculating e steps and need to know, thanks. 01
I thought jyers also raised your hotend limit to 300c?? Mine is still at 260c…. I don’t yet have an all metal hot end but when I do get one how do I go about raising the limit of the hot end temps?
any idea why it wont flash to my display for the new icons? I have the firmware on the sd card and when I plug it in to the back of the display and turn it on it just loads the screen like normal?
Afrer flashing the display, my screen goes ORANGE as planned but stays orange. How long should it stay orange? If I turn it off while its orange and follow the steps, I still cannot get the boot screen. Thank you again for the great video
After you insert the SD card into the back of the display, power on the printer, screen should go from blue to orange, as you stated. After the screen turns orange, power off the printer, Remove the SD card from the back of the display at this point. After removing the SD card, power on the printer again and the display should be successfully flashed
Thank you for the feedback. Here are the STLs Main board: www.thingiverse.com/thing:4653994 PSU: www.thingiverse.com/thing:4822648 To get the same look, make sure to have 0 top and 0 bottom layers.
does 3dtouch work properly on jeyrs Fw and how is it installed, are 5 wires of 3dtouch connected to the bltouch pin on the board or 3 wires attached to the bltouch pin and 2 wires to the Z end stop pin?
Does the size of the sd card matter?? The smallest one I have is 16g… I have the 8g that came with the printer but would rather not use that as it’s got all my stuff on it already. Got a blank 16g sitting doing nothing
Great video many thanks, now fully upgraded, Just one question, in Cura machine settings you recommended using G29 for each print, I totally agree with that as I have added a magnetic pei bed to my e3v2 and there is no way that it goes back in the same place after every print. However, with the previous firmware (Smiths 3d for blt), which uses Bilinear levelling, I added M500 after g29 and then M420 S1 to use that saved mesh would that be appropriate in this firmware application? Thanks
M500 certainly doesnt hurt. It just saves the mesh to eeprom. But since you are building a new mesh with every print, saving the mesh becomes a bit redundant. I would keep it in the start gcode if you already have it there.
Hi,this is great video, but I need to know how to start with the bed. Before doing the auto bed leveling with the BLTouch and the new firmware how should the 4 leveling knobs below the bed need to be set?
How do I know if it's using the mesh? That check box was off after one of my prints...does the line of code added to the machine in cura turn it on even if that check box isn't checked?
does anyone else have an issue where the nozzle cools down while the printer runs the G29 command? I use a 3x3 normal speed mesh from the Marlin 2.0.8 firmware. Wondering if that is still an issue on 5x5 high speed Jyers firmware or if I should try the M420 S1 command? Thanks
Issue with Jyers 1.3.1 to 1.3.4 I have used this firmware I do Filament change for 2 time using pause at height from cura but in 6 of 10 prints printers crashed It starts continue beeppp..... sound and show Print killled .....😟 this happen After I have changed the Filament and I try restart the printer and my print starts from 0% 1st layer It was working ok but from last week this issue is occurring Another issue is if printer is stopped for Filament change at cordinates xy 40 mm using cura pause at height While printing it goes to 40,40 xy within a second come to layer height and waits for pause time and when I press start print then.it moves the novel I side the printed object and touches the bed
You are not alone my friend. For this video, I used 1.3.2. In the M600 section of the video, the filament change option was clearly working, but something happened to where it does not work any more. the filament does not go through the unload process. If you manually change the filament, it then goes through the fast load process, purges the filament, then unloads the filament before it continues to print. I have tried multiple different jyers firmwares, Cura 4.8, 4.9.1, PrusaSlicer, and IdeaMaker and can not seem to get the M600 working properly.
@@EB3DPrinting I have boughtbltouch...I started all the steps as u said but I can't pass z offset The nozzle keep moving down I believe it could damage something
Thanks for the great video.. Followed to the tee every detail and worked perfectly. Then i added my drive motor for the z drive worked fine for a bit, now it wont go down on home or leveling. any ideas ? it will go down in the move command.
@@leesummer5256 do you hook it up by a split cable connected to the stepper driver? One cable leads to both motors? Second. When you say leveling, I'm assuming bltouch. Does the bltouch self test when you turn the printer on?
Hello Grand Master EB3D Printing Sir, I am interested in printing more exotic filaments that require higher temperatures than are allowed by the stock marling firmware and the Jyers firmware. I understand that this is done because the PTFE in the stock hot end will begin to melt and release harmful gasses, I however have an all metal hot end. My question or request per say is, could you please do a tutorial on how to change the firmware to use high temperature thermistors and heated cartridges to print beyond 260 C, and if possible to do it with the 4.2.2 or the 4.2.7 one. PLEASE PLEASE PLEASE do a tutorial
@@EB3DPrinting Yes please do so. I have been searching all over the internet for like a month... nothing to be found about this subject, it seems no one ever cared to show how its done. And tho after many fails and trials I could probably figure it out, I'd rather let a pro like yourself do it. LOL when will you have those two videos finished? Not trying to rush you, I just like to have time frames, even if its like a month or two, I don't mind waiting just as long as I know how long I have to wait. Once again thanks for your time and awesome channel, definitely subscribing for more.
So if you do say a 5x5 mesh with a PEI sheet and save it to EEPROM then do a M420 in Prusa Slicer (slicer that I use) then Print your part then want to switch to a powder coat sheet you then have to do another mesh and save to EEPROM? What I'm getting at is you need to do a mesh for each build surface that you use? Last question is does it make sense to have the bed level knobs more on the tighter side to avoid them loosening when printing?
For a 5x5 mesh, I just run a new one before every print. It takes less than a minute to complete, so for me it's not worth risking a failed print. For bed springs, you want them on the tighter side that way the bed doesnt move and there is enough tension between the threads of the bolts and the threads of the knobs. This ensures the knobs wont back off over time.
So, my e3v2 has 3DFUSED linear rails... and it's homing the opposite ways off of home... with th3d though... maybe I can try this? I'm told the XY offset can't be positive and that I need manual hardware solution. Any advice?
Need some help I guess. Tried to upgrade firmware first the screen firmware put what I thought on my chip plugged into screen mini card port and turned it on and it came up with the Crealty screen. After that nothing. Trying to go to Jyeres
When you download the Jyers Zip folder from github, after extracting it. Go into Display firmware > Firmware Sets > copy the DWIN_SET (name) folder to your sd card. After copying it to your SD card, Rename it to just DWIN_SET. Then eject it from your computer. When flashing the firmware, put the sd card into the back of the display. If you did it right, when you flash the display firmware, the screen will go from blue, to orange. After that happens, power off the printer, take the SD card out of the back of the display, then turn on the printer again.
new to 3d printing and come across your video, great video, i notice your bltouch doesnt fully retract, is that down to firmware or how the bltouch should work, my bltouch fully retracts when levelling, am currently on official marlin firmware
It does not look like the default setup for Jyers supports the BTT runout sensor. There are a few lines that would need adjusting in order to get it to work. You could compile your own easily to make it work with Jyers
@@EB3DPrinting Ok, thanks. Compile firmware is no problem for me, but I hope what creator make some changes to make choice in menu in next versions. BTT runout sensor is popular solution.
It appears so. The board version that is supported should be in the title of the firmware. I don't use jyers anymore, so you'd have to look it up on the GitHub page
Can someone please help me? I have to be doing something wrong. I installed the Sprite Pro Kit on my Ender3V2 and didnt know I needed to update any firmware. I have since done so with the JyersUI using this video and another I found. For some reason thought when I did it it changes the bed size from 220x220 to 230x230 I have tried adjusting probe offsets along with home offsets but it seems like no matter what when it goes to do the leveling the probe ends up off the bed. 5 min ago this happened and the nozzle hit the bed and cracked it so now I'm just over trying until I can find some more insight. This has been a 2 day process so far..........Any help is greatly appreciated!!!!!
Unfortunately jyers firmware wasn't designed to work with the sprite extruder. The 230x230nis due to the bed actually being 235x235, it increases the limits of the print area, you can safely print up to 230x230. If your probe is going off the bed, your offsets are not correct. Make sure you have you x/y directions correct as far as +/- goes
Great video, but I got a question because I bought Creality Bltouch V1.4 but when I install the Bltouch version of jyers firmware the autolevel doesn´t work, but with the crealities firmware it works perfectly, idk if im choosing bad the version of the jyers firmware, can you help me very quick? Thank for the video btw
Does anyone know if it is compatible with the 4.2.2 board with GigaDevice GD32F303 RET6 CPU? The newer 3 v2 enders come with this cpu and not the STM32F303.
Best guide man.im new to this whole 3d thing I have printed pretty good stuff with pla stock settings. Ender 3 v2 stock board was a 4.2.2 something happened to it so creailty sent me a new 4.2.7 board. I put all that in. While I had things apart I dropped in a micro swiss all metal hot end and a bltouch/antclabs. I also have a Satsana cooling duct. Stock fans and blower. I'm at my end with this petg. I have the steps/mm set dead on. The machine. Filment is dry. And so on. I'm having problems with the retract settings. I never had to deal with that yet. If any of you have. Good cura profile let me know. I need the help
I would suggest starting with temp tower and run that. Figure out what temperature the PETG prints best at. Then go trough the retraction settings test. Follow this guide to help you get it dialed in: teachingtechyt.github.io/calibration.html#temp
Are you running raised temperatures for hotter filaments? I'm running a similar setup and cant get the Jyers source code to compile with the temp mods for hotter filament. Thanks for any help you can offer- Shane
So I installed this when I did it had a bug reguarding the length of the file name .So I switched to the Smith firmware but I missed the jyers options So I switched back when I saw that jyers had corrected that bug. but what I'm noticing is one of the of my sd cards continues to show smith firmware ?
The firmware file stays on the SD card. The way to tell which firmware is on the printer is to hit the "info" button on the main screen or if you have a bltouch, go to Control>Info and that will show you the firmware name and version. When loading new firmware make sure to change it to a unique file name. Then remove the firmware files from the SDcard
What are the drawbacks of using the high speed firmware? I assume the normal version has some benefits compared to high speed, or the normal one would be high speed?
@@EB3DPrinting thanks for the quick reply, I thought the only drawback would be less accuracy but I was wondering how badly it would be. Glad to hear that it’s bearly noticeable since that will save a lot of time 😅
CORRECTION:
I made a mistake in the slicer settings for Unified Bed Leveling. You need to add either M420 S1 or G29 A before the G29 L0 command. So the start G-Code should look something like this:
;Load Saved Mesh
M420 S1; Activate Mesh Leveling
G29 L0; Load Saved Mesh
G29 J2; Probe 4 Points and Adjust the mesh
I will have to note that when I make the video for Unified vs Bilinear Mesh
where do i put the g28 command
@@rickyhackett6703 G28 Should already be in your start gcode. You put the Load saved mesh gcodes after that. If it is not in your start g-code, it goes after set bed/extruder temp gcodes or before the purge/prime line gcodes
For manual mesh leveling i need use only GCODE M420 S1 ???
@@sotyson3833 correct
In CHEP's video he puts in the gcode.
Then he explains that he looked over the source code of the firmware and it shows that it automatically loads the saved mesh if leveling is checked.
He said the gcode lines are not necessary but that the redundancy will not hurt.
I guess I will still do both.
Thanks for the video.
This is the best guide i've found. Really appreciate your time and effort on this
Thank you! I lost count of how many times I flashed the firmware lol
Thanks for showing how to do the multicolor prints with the M600 command. Perfect.
This is explained so well and clearly. More people should take this as an example of how to give a good explanation of how something works. Thank you very much.
By far the most comprehensive, and helpful guide I have seen. Excellent work mate!
This is the best walk through I've seen on the Jyers software, thank you for making such a detailed video! **One note, I ended up putting my G29 code after the bed warm up command, so that the bed is warm when it goes to take a mesh!
This is insanely helpful! Thanks for putting in the time and effort, man!
Great video! Clear, structured and straight to the point. You saved my backside because I was quite frustrated with the stock marlin firmware. The live z offset and the manual bed levelling feature helped me a lot with setting up my BLtouch.
Thank you too, to Jyers who designed such an elegant firmware. 👍👍👍
Liked and commenting for the algorithm. I was putting in key words and it still took forever to stumble on this video.
I now have confidence to upgrade the firmware. thank you
Thats awesome to hear. If you have any questions or run into any problems, feel free to reach out and I'll try to help.
Thanks for the well explained video! I'm new to 3D printing and you made it so understandable and in-depth! Good stuff!!
Thank you very much for this tutorial on Jyers firmware. You explained a couple of issues I had questions about that will help me pick the best version for me.
You gained a sub.
Thank you for the feedback and sub. I'm glad this video was able to help. If you have any questions, feel free to reach out
Thank you. Very helpful for a newbie like me. I just installed it on an Ender 3 Pro with 4.2.7 board, digital screen display (knob) and the CR Touch. It's printing right now. First layer looks perfect.
Hi again Evan, Thank you again for your help for putting together this video. However, I do have a question regarding z-offset. I have installed Jyers Marlin v2.0.1 with BLTouch 3x3 grid. The problem that I think I have is: Nozzle z-height during first layer print is approximately 0.4mm above the print surface.
Here's the steps that I did:
1. set an arbritary z-offset value that allow my nozzle to be close to the bed to do "manual bed leveling". Used your bed leveling pattern to achieve good tramming.
2. Set z-offset using the live-z-offset feature from the "prepare" menu. I use 0.2mm feeler gauge to achieve my desired z-offset. The value i obtained was -1.15mm
3. Saved the z-offset value
4. revisited "manual bed leveling" from prepare menu to cross check if all 5 points have similar nozzle-to-bed clearance using my 0.2 feeler gauge.
Here's the chronology of my first 'bed leveling squares' print (appropriate starting gcode was added in cura. G29 was added after G28)
1. started print, BLTouch was probing the bed as expected
2. First and second line was drawn.
3. Upon starting the first square, I noticed that the filament was not sticking/squished at all.
4. Paused the print
5. use a feeler gauge to find the nozzle clearance. I found 0.4mm feeler gauge to fit snugly.
My follow up bed-leveling-square print job was done with live-z-offset tuning. The final z-offset that I achieved was -1.35. I repeated the print again with the new z-offset value and was able to have similar result.
When I rehome the print head and move the z height to "0", my nozzle just touches the print bed with close to 0.04mm clearance...
Now... I am confused, what is the right definition of z-offset? hahahah. Was my z-offset methodology wrong? or is it my slicer setting that is incorrect? I am lost. Any pointer would be great. Been scouring the web and reddit but to no avail :(
Oh, I also reflased the firmware with other Jyers Marlin firmware (except the UBL)
Thank you so much in advanced Evan.
Btw, do I need to add the thickness of the feeler gauge (or paper) to the z-offset value? I have seen some video outlining that step during z-offset calibration.
ruclips.net/video/y_1Kg45APko/видео.html
Simply put, the z-offset is the distance between the nozzle tip and the bltouch probe tip in the vertical direction.
Z offset has no bearing on manual leveling. When you manual level the bed, all you are doing is tramming the bed to be parallel to the x axis linear rail. The rail that the printhead moves on. You should manual level your bed after you set the actual z offset value.
When setting the z-offset, you are correct that you use the live z-offset adjust in the prepare menu. But I would suggest not using a 0.2mm feeler gauge for this. I understand the reasoning, since people often use a 0.2mm first layer height, they think a 0.2mm z feeler gauge should work, but I have found, and it seems so have you, that when using a 0.2mm feeler gauge that it is not quite close enough to get the required squish for the first layer. I would suggest using paper to set the zoffset. This works every time for me. You want the paper to be snug, but not buckle when you try to move it.
The final z-offset value will depend on a few factors. But Just to give you a reference point, My printers z offset values range from 1.2mm up to 2.4mm. It all depends on the bltouch mounting set up you go with.
Homing the printer takes the printer to its Z-safe home position. This position is whatever position is set in the firmware. This will position should not have the nozzle touching the print bed. There should be enough clearance for the bltouch probe tip to safely, and fully deploy without hitting the print bed.
@@EB3DPrinting alrighty, followed your advice on using paper instead and it worked 😁.
And yes I did use a 0.2mm feeler gauge on the basis of first layer height. I did that because I felt that a piece of paper have different thickness depending on the paper GSM (the higher the GSM, the thicker the paper), so I thought by using a feeler gauge, I would circumvent the variable of different paper thickness.
Anyhow, paper worked and I'm sticking to this methodology.
Thank you again for your prompt response.
Wishing you a successful channel and am looking forward to more videos from you
Ps. Am using your fusion360 exercise video to polish my fusion360 skill. 👍
Within the 1st 5 minutes I've learn alot. I cant wait to muster up the courage to update my firmware. I tried once and failed miserably lol went back to stock firmware but I can tell you this watching videos like these gets me closer to actually getting this done
If you run into any trouble, feel free to reach out through one of my pages
@@EB3DPrinting i will brotha thank you i just put a dual extruder with the Capricorn tubing , calibrated e steps ... that was fun but I nailed it lol now I'm getting stringing so I have a temp tower running now looks like 190° on the nozzle works best next ill do the retraction tower then ill give you guys a holla when I'm ready for that firmware 😎👍
Thank you so much for this guide and the providing the matching G-Code, made my firmware update pretty easy to follow and turned my Ender V2 into a new machine!
Thank you for the kind feedback. I'm glad you had success!
My BLTouch has just arrived in the post and this tutorial is a really quick and simple way at setting it up, thanks!
Thanks for doing an in-depth dive have not seen too many of those
Just great info. First guide I found that covered it all.
Wow what a brilliant video, have achieved so much from this so now I need to retry my levelling which I am hoping will now be successful. You explain things so well, very clear and most importantly in a language that's not scientific but easy for us newbies ... Thankyou so much
Ive 4 of these and life just got a hell of lot better for me after watching this. Amazing stuff tyvm by far the best guide yet ! SUBB'D :)
Thank you! Jyers Firmware definitely made my life a lot easier. It made the E3v2 a lot more consistent and fail prints way less often
Thank you so much for making this guide. Saved me a lot of googling.
Thanks, just successfully updated the firmware. Mainly to get the filament run out sensor support
Thanks about to upgrade and found this to be the best video. Good work.
Very informative, as I just heard of Jyers as I'm looking to flash my E5Pro with the v4.2.2 board (CR Touch).
Great video, really helpful. had all the info i was looking for.
thank you
Great video and great timestamps and links. Thanks for your efforts. Sounds like a Nawlin's accent...takes one to know one. Keep up the good work...sub.
I'm struggling to compile the Jyers firmware with my larger bed size 12"x24"x8.25" (305mm x 610mm x 210mm). I can't get it to work from my compile. Any chance I could pay you to build it for me? Running Ender 3 V2 4.2.2. board. BLT, ideally High Speed 15x15. Also, struggling with DWIN_SET file, too. Have a part for work need to print out ASAP. Not sure if the offset for the BLT would have to be adjusted. For expanding the X-axis I just added 80mm in total. Thanks...
Thanks for this as I am considering adding the Jyers firmware.
It's a well worth upgrade, even if you don't have a bltouch. Manual mesh leveling is a game changer
Very nicely put together tutorial many many thanks. You really took the time with this one best Ive seen yet. Up and running now. Maybe you could simplify the g code side but very good never the less.
Thank you for the feedback. I did get a little talkative in the gcode section. I just tried to be as thorough as possible.
@@EB3DPrinting no no you where brilliant its not a fault by any means. Just that showing 2 examples was a little miss leading is all. Please keep it up. Best ive watched yet 100%.
The 2 thing I wish they would add is linear advance and independent colors for the x,y and z.
Me playing around with the new firmware and Ui. Played with the Z offset settings and watched the nozzle ignore the glass barrier like it was air. I had no idea those stepper motors have the torque of a wild Karen charging towards a innocent manager.
This was extremely helpful thank you for the video :)
Thanks for a great tutorial, already did changed, works great, however got a question, when you change the G start code, i`m use CURA, do I have to put ; before the code? Thanks Man keep up the good work.
The ; means comment, so anything after the ; is ignored by the printer. All you need to add to you start gcode is either:
G29
Or
M420 S1
So we actually downloaded the ubl 15x15 mesh vs for the ender 3 v2 neo. And had to revert it back to creality software because of bugs. The biggest one being the z offset wouldn't change when you were changing it. It wouldn't always not work but when it did, I'd have to shut off the printer and turn it back on for it to work. Then it moved our Y and Z values way to the right. Granted, we did fix the axis issue by manually entering the mm it was off by then doing test prints, vut the z axis offset was a pain. I really wanted to keep jyers because of the ubl mesh was so cool just wasnt worth the z offset changing randomly and not being able to adjust it half of the time
Yeah, I'm not sure this is updated for the newer Creality printers. I don't even know if it is still under development.
@EB3D Printing i didnt even think to consider that. Thanks. If you have any other firmware you think would work for the ender 3v2 neo and make or have made a video it. Id love to learn about it
@@jakethesnake1245 I know there are at least two, there is like and ender 3 "professional firmware" and another one that starts with an M.
Being completely honest though, I do not use any marlin based firmware any more so I'm not up to date on the latest offerings.
@EB3D Printing well i appreciate the help bud. Ice only been printing for less than a month. Run into one prob at a time with this thing haha. First it the bed wasnt staying level and the extruder was rubbing on the infill on travel moves, taking out any small supports after about a hour into the build. So i bought new springs and that didn't help then bought a second z axis rod and motor after noticing the gantry sagged to the right and that seem to help the bed level situation and the loud rubbing against the infill but its still knocking over small supports. The x axis gantry is level, checked my extrusion and even printed a calibration cube which printed at 20mm on the z, 19.9 on x and 20.1 on y which from looking it up said wasnt all bad. If you have any suggestions im all ears im trynot to turn on z hop cause of all the other bad that comes with that
After doing this my printer will no longer home the Z Axis. I have the BL Touch upgrade and everything was working fine before. I even tried reverting back to the old firmware and it's still not doing anything. I also tried disconnecting the BL Touch and installing the non BL Touch firmware and it still won't home Z. It will let me manually move Z up in settings, but it won't go down. Any ideas?
I've had the printer for about a year. So I don't think it's a wiring or physical setup issue.
The first question I have is do you have a single white connector bltouch or a two connector bltouch?
Check this guide to make sure your BLTouch Wiring is correct.
smith3d.com/ender-3-v2-bltouch-firmware-installation-guide-by-smith3d-com/
Love your mainboard & psu covers, could I be cheeky and ask where you acquired the stl or step files from please?
PSU Cover:
www.thingiverse.com/thing:4822648
Main board Cover:
www.thingiverse.com/thing:4653994
how do i know if my 4.2.2 board is working my bltouch stopped working after upgrading and yes i tried going back and tried different stock ones but now my touch is no longer working. is there anyway to check the board
Just a heads up, might have already been mentioned. There is a F10 code in the cura settings after the M420 S1 command. The prusa settings are correct with the M420 S1 only. thanks for the vid.
You're right, I didnt catch that. Thanks for pointing that out. The video was getting quite long and I started to try and rush things.
Thanks a lot, buddy! Liked & suscribed
Thanks for great video!
Why do you need to update the display firmware? I never did and it works well? Am I missing something?
Correct, you do not necessarily need to. It is mainly if you want to unlock display customization options.
I love the video it is very edcational. where can I find the Raspberry Pi case you have on the left side of the printer?
Thanks
hey, thanks for the video. Which duct are you using? is it very silent? The stock one is hair dryer loud.
Fan Duct
www.thingiverse.com/thing:4375296
Thank You for Your usedul tutorial! I successfully installed the firmware on my ender3v2 equibbed with 4.2.2 motherboard and i think it's features are awesome. Unfortunately when printing extruder seems to move extremely fast, despite the stoeed values appears to be exactly the same as stock firmware. I saw that this issue is already being reported but not yet fixed. I reinstall stock firmware but look forward to the fix to install it again.
I love the video, it's nice to see someone take the time to drill down and go more in-depth with content in general. It can definitely be confusing trying to decide which is the correct firmware to use. I understand that making sure you have the correct version mainboard and select the version with the BL touch (if you have it). But then you have versions of jyers out there that talk about bug fixes. It's still not clear to me which version to download for the Ender 3 V2 4.2.2. with BL Touch. I am currently running the bug fix version and I couldn't tell you more than that at the moment because I am in the middle of a print. Also, I haven't flashed the screen yet. Does it really matter? I seem to have all of the functions from just flashing the mainboard. I am also still confused about the leveling. So I created a new mesh, I have adjusted the Z offset and I can see where the bed is off by viewing the mesh. I go around and manually adjust the z offset through the interface where the bed is off. My question is, will I ever need to use the wheels under the hotbed to make any adjustments going forward? I think that's the part that confuses me still. I appreciate your videos and any assistance provided. I just shared all of your links with another enthusiast on Reddit haha hope I didn't confuse him too much, but he was having lots of problems with the creality update with BL touch that he just installed. Thank you
First. You don't need to flash the display, that's only if you want the fancy, but unnecessary icons.
Second. The bed mesh tells you the highs and lows of the bed, green means high, red means low. Ideally you want you highest point and lowest point to be within 0.2mm of each other.
As far as which version, I would suggest the bilinear 5x5 mesh. I run the high speed version. UBL is cool and all, but I feel it's overly complicated for as small of a bed as the ender 3 has.
@@EB3DPrinting v
I absolutely love the Jyers firmware but I am unable to "up the temp range" to 315 for my V2 printer and then get it to compile in VStudio for some reason. Has anyone compiled a BLtouch plus hotter temps that I can get?
Thanks
I have the same problem. Hoping someone can show us how to complie files for jyers firmware so I can print at higher temps.
Thank you for this video! Just the education I needed. :)
I don't know if you mentioned it but when flashing the display your SD card should be as small as possible. I had to put my 32GB in a 8GB partion or else the display went to red directly after power on and then fail the flashing. And it has to be in FAT32. :P
I did not mention this. But this can also be a problem for some older mainboards as well. Where the limit to the SD card size is 8gb. Thanks for pointing this oit
My printers display will not update the progress bar or times remaining using OctoPrint. I have read the Wiki and have entered the lines of code from that page under OctoPrint settings but the screen still doesn't move through an entire print. Ideas on why? Thank You for the excellent tutorial....
Awesome tutorial!!
Thanks so much.
I actually hadnt used my printer for almost 9 months because I had given up on the bl touch, I had tried so many firmwares.
Any suggestions on why after bl touch levelling the right side of my bed the nozzle is higher and the left side is lower?
I can see it squishing the material on the left, and on the right it wont stick....
I have the same blower design. Really good
It is a good design, I had to modify it a bit though for the 5015. The lower part that the screws go into to hold the fan broke. So I beefed that up a bit and made the 5015 sort of snap in now as well.
Great video! Thanks. I have been running JyersUI v2.0.1 with 3x3 mesh leveling on my Ender 3 v2 printer (4.2.2 board) along with the updated screen firmware. I have ordered a BLTouch to add to my printer. I assume I need to re-flash my Ender firmware with - E3V2-BLTouch-3x3-v4.2.2-v2.0.1.bin, will I have to re flash the updated screen?
Wow, what a nice piece of work. I am running the btt E3 2.0 motherboard now, thus wondering how I can get some kind of diff files to remix this GUI package into my existing firmware based on BigTechTree...?
Amazing. Thank you 🙏🏾
Thanks for this video. It is starting to explain some of the Jyers secrets. Is there anywhere a full explanation of all his menu items? For example, one can set print speed to a number, say 80. So what is 80 then, 80mm/s, 80% or what? If it is 80%, then 80% of what?
I can see that the Jyers firmware has great potential but the lack of explanations and definitions makes it very difficult to work with. Anybody that can direct us to such a document or site?
Jyers is just a fork of Marlin firmware tailored to work with the Creality Ender 3v2.
There is plenty of documentation on Marlin firmware out there. For a deep dive:
marlinfw.org/docs/features/lcd_menu.html
You can also search for Marlin Display Menu Items
To answer your question. Print speed on the menu is a multiplyer of the current feature print speed. E.g. your wall speed is set to 40mm/s and infill set to 80mm/s. If your menu is displaying 50 for speed, that means it is printing at 50% of the requested speed. Your print walls are printing at 20mm/s and infill is printing at 40mm/s
Fan speed is a direct %. 10% fan speed is 10%.
Flow rate is also a multiplyer % but the displayed value can differ depending on the slicer used. Slicers that use a % value for flow typically display that %, and slicers that use a decimal value typically display 100%
Thanks for your guide.
Hello.Please help me with the choice of firmware on my printer, My motherboard version 4.2.2 is also equipped with filament sensor Touch sensors , which firmware should I choose specifically for my motherboard . My TFT display. How to flash the display to work with my motherboard. thank you in advance
This is a GREAT VIDEO
Thank you for such a complete review. Could you let me know what firmware I would use on a 4.2.2 board with both the BLTouch and a filament runout sensor installed? Thank you for any help you can provide. Thank you.
Can you explain what z point offset is, under leveling/manual tuning/z point offset? It differs from the common z offset under prepare. I can't find any information on what this setting does
Thanks for the video, helped me out very well. Where can I find the stl for your fan/cooler?
Here is the Fan Shroud that is in the video:
www.thingiverse.com/thing:4375296
For preheat, I use 175/50 just so filament isn’t oozing out while I’m try to level
Hi. Great video thanks. Slightly off topic but how did you make those printed parts for the fans underneath please. They look loads better than the small internal fans
Here are the links to those files:
PSU Cover:
www.thingiverse.com/thing:4822648
Main board Cover:
www.thingiverse.com/thing:4653994
In my advanced menu load length is 100, is this in mm and is that the amount that is extruded when I go to prepare, change filament and then load filament, calculating e steps and need to know, thanks.
01
I thought jyers also raised your hotend limit to 300c?? Mine is still at 260c…. I don’t yet have an all metal hot end but when I do get one how do I go about raising the limit of the hot end temps?
any idea why it wont flash to my display for the new icons? I have the firmware on the sd card and when I plug it in to the back of the display and turn it on it just loads the screen like normal?
Afrer flashing the display, my screen goes ORANGE as planned but stays orange. How long should it stay orange? If I turn it off while its orange and follow the steps, I still cannot get the boot screen. Thank you again for the great video
After you insert the SD card into the back of the display, power on the printer, screen should go from blue to orange, as you stated.
After the screen turns orange, power off the printer, Remove the SD card from the back of the display at this point. After removing the SD card, power on the printer again and the display should be successfully flashed
when I try to update to the Jyers Firmware, the screen is stuck on the Clarity Text with the dots and lines. Have I done something wrong?
Great guide!
thanks man, nice explanation. Can you provide links to PSU and motherboard covers? They look really cool.
Thank you for the feedback. Here are the STLs
Main board:
www.thingiverse.com/thing:4653994
PSU:
www.thingiverse.com/thing:4822648
To get the same look, make sure to have 0 top and 0 bottom layers.
@@EB3DPrinting Thank you for your time.
@@EB3DPrinting Thank you, I wanted to ask for a link to every upgrade you've printed for your Ender. Looks amazing. Thank you for the great content!
Thank you very much
Very good video 😁😁
Thank you for the feedback!
does 3dtouch work properly on jeyrs Fw and how is it installed, are 5 wires of 3dtouch connected to the bltouch pin on the board or 3 wires attached to the bltouch pin and 2 wires to the Z end stop pin?
Has anyone had a "SD INIT FAIL" when updating the Display firmware? Im on a Mac however the SD card is formatted as FAT 32
Does the size of the sd card matter?? The smallest one I have is 16g… I have the 8g that came with the printer but would rather not use that as it’s got all my stuff on it already. Got a blank 16g sitting doing nothing
Yes, it can affect installation. I would go ahead and say the 16gb would be fine for a firmware flash, just make sure it is formatted to FAT32.
Great video many thanks, now fully upgraded, Just one question, in Cura machine settings you recommended using G29 for each print, I totally agree with that as I have added a magnetic pei bed to my e3v2 and there is no way that it goes back in the same place after every print. However, with the previous firmware (Smiths 3d for blt), which uses Bilinear levelling, I added M500 after g29 and then M420 S1 to use that saved mesh would that be appropriate in this firmware application? Thanks
M500 certainly doesnt hurt. It just saves the mesh to eeprom. But since you are building a new mesh with every print, saving the mesh becomes a bit redundant. I would keep it in the start gcode if you already have it there.
@@EB3DPrinting Hi, thanks for the quick response I take the point and will remove the M500 etc. Keep up the good work!!
Hi,this is great video, but I need to know how to start with the bed. Before doing the auto bed leveling with the BLTouch and the new firmware how should the 4 leveling knobs below the bed need to be set?
Just in luck, I uploaded a new video covering this subject.
ruclips.net/video/LqDVsjf-JJw/видео.html
Huh, I never updated the firmware on my screen and it works absolutely fine. I think the icons look a little different though.
You do not need to update the screen firmware to get it to work. It's only necessary if you want to updated icons
How do I know if it's using the mesh? That check box was off after one of my prints...does the line of code added to the machine in cura turn it on even if that check box isn't checked?
As long as the code you have in cura is correct, it will use the saved mesh.
does anyone else have an issue where the nozzle cools down while the printer runs the G29 command? I use a 3x3 normal speed mesh from the Marlin 2.0.8 firmware.
Wondering if that is still an issue on 5x5 high speed Jyers firmware or if I should try the M420 S1 command?
Thanks
This is more than likely not a firmware issue but more of a start gcode in the slicer issue.
@@EB3DPrinting Thanks, I'll look into that. Do you have a reference you would recommend?
Issue with Jyers 1.3.1 to 1.3.4 I have used this firmware
I do Filament change for 2 time using pause at height from cura but in 6 of 10 prints printers crashed
It starts continue beeppp..... sound and show Print killled .....😟 this happen After I have changed the Filament and I try restart the printer and my print starts from 0% 1st layer
It was working ok but from last week this issue is occurring
Another issue is if printer is stopped for Filament change at cordinates xy 40 mm using cura pause at height
While printing it goes to 40,40 xy within a second come to layer height and waits for pause time and when I press start print then.it moves the novel I side the printed object and touches the bed
You are not alone my friend. For this video, I used 1.3.2. In the M600 section of the video, the filament change option was clearly working, but something happened to where it does not work any more. the filament does not go through the unload process. If you manually change the filament, it then goes through the fast load process, purges the filament, then unloads the filament before it continues to print.
I have tried multiple different jyers firmwares, Cura 4.8, 4.9.1, PrusaSlicer, and IdeaMaker and can not seem to get the M600 working properly.
@@EB3DPrinting
I have boughtbltouch...I started all the steps as u said but I can't pass z offset
The nozzle keep moving down I believe it could damage something
Thanks for the great video.. Followed to the tee every detail and worked perfectly. Then i added my drive motor for the z drive worked fine for a bit, now it wont go down on home or leveling. any ideas ? it will go down in the move command.
Sorry second drive motor on the right side
@@leesummer5256 do you hook it up by a split cable connected to the stepper driver? One cable leads to both motors?
Second. When you say leveling, I'm assuming bltouch. Does the bltouch self test when you turn the printer on?
Hello Grand Master EB3D Printing Sir, I am interested in printing more exotic filaments that require higher temperatures than are allowed by the stock marling firmware and the Jyers firmware. I understand that this is done because the PTFE in the stock hot end will begin to melt and release harmful gasses, I however have an all metal hot end. My question or request per say is, could you please do a tutorial on how to change the firmware to use high temperature thermistors and heated cartridges to print beyond 260 C, and if possible to do it with the 4.2.2 or the 4.2.7 one. PLEASE PLEASE PLEASE do a tutorial
This is definitely an idea for a future video. I have two videos currently in the works. I will see if I can get it done after those two.
@@EB3DPrinting Yes please do so. I have been searching all over the internet for like a month... nothing to be found about this subject, it seems no one ever cared to show how its done. And tho after many fails and trials I could probably figure it out, I'd rather let a pro like yourself do it. LOL when will you have those two videos finished? Not trying to rush you, I just like to have time frames, even if its like a month or two, I don't mind waiting just as long as I know how long I have to wait.
Once again thanks for your time and awesome channel, definitely subscribing for more.
good stuff dude
So if you do say a 5x5 mesh with a PEI sheet and save it to EEPROM then do a M420 in Prusa Slicer (slicer that I use) then Print your part then want to switch to a powder coat sheet you then have to do another mesh and save to EEPROM? What I'm getting at is you need to do a mesh for each build surface that you use? Last question is does it make sense to have the bed level knobs more on the tighter side to avoid them loosening when printing?
For a 5x5 mesh, I just run a new one before every print. It takes less than a minute to complete, so for me it's not worth risking a failed print.
For bed springs, you want them on the tighter side that way the bed doesnt move and there is enough tension between the threads of the bolts and the threads of the knobs. This ensures the knobs wont back off over time.
@@EB3DPrinting how do you change how many points are leveled during a mesh?
I can't use my filament sensor with this firmware, screen is freeze and can't control when i put filament in this sensor, and normal when i put out 😒
Jyers did not compile this firmware to work with a filament run out sensor unfortunately
Know anything about the Swiss direct drive edits such as firmware and code? (Jyers)
Within the menu under “motion” there are x,y & z values. Are these the actual e-step values? Ie M92 values.
So, my e3v2 has 3DFUSED linear rails... and it's homing the opposite ways off of home... with th3d though... maybe I can try this? I'm told the XY offset can't be positive and that I need manual hardware solution. Any advice?
You could try something like this
marlinfw.org/docs/gcode/M206.html
Need some help I guess. Tried to upgrade firmware first the screen firmware put what I thought on my chip plugged into screen mini card port and turned it on and it came up with the Crealty screen. After that nothing. Trying to go to Jyeres
When you download the Jyers Zip folder from github, after extracting it. Go into Display firmware > Firmware Sets > copy the DWIN_SET (name) folder to your sd card. After copying it to your SD card, Rename it to just DWIN_SET. Then eject it from your computer. When flashing the firmware, put the sd card into the back of the display. If you did it right, when you flash the display firmware, the screen will go from blue, to orange. After that happens, power off the printer, take the SD card out of the back of the display, then turn on the printer again.
Also thank u for a great video
Great video! My display has been really laggy ever since I installed it, any ideas why?
new to 3d printing and come across your video, great video, i notice your bltouch doesnt fully retract, is that down to firmware or how the bltouch should work, my bltouch fully retracts when levelling, am currently on official marlin firmware
That is part of the firmware. It is covered in the "Probe Points and Speed Section" @ 19:47. I use the HS or High Speed variation of Jyers Firmware.
Thank you so much. But the Filament Sensor in menu will work with Smart filament sensor from BTT? Or that option only for regular runout sensor?
It does not look like the default setup for Jyers supports the BTT runout sensor. There are a few lines that would need adjusting in order to get it to work. You could compile your own easily to make it work with Jyers
@@EB3DPrinting Ok, thanks. Compile firmware is no problem for me, but I hope what creator make some changes to make choice in menu in next versions. BTT runout sensor is popular solution.
Do you know if newer boards are compatable with older version s of Jyers Firmware? My Ender 3 V2 shipped with a 4.3.1 version board.
It appears so. The board version that is supported should be in the title of the firmware. I don't use jyers anymore, so you'd have to look it up on the GitHub page
Can someone please help me? I have to be doing something wrong. I installed the Sprite Pro Kit on my Ender3V2 and didnt know I needed to update any firmware. I have since done so with the JyersUI using this video and another I found. For some reason thought when I did it it changes the bed size from 220x220 to 230x230 I have tried adjusting probe offsets along with home offsets but it seems like no matter what when it goes to do the leveling the probe ends up off the bed. 5 min ago this happened and the nozzle hit the bed and cracked it so now I'm just over trying until I can find some more insight. This has been a 2 day process so far..........Any help is greatly appreciated!!!!!
Unfortunately jyers firmware wasn't designed to work with the sprite extruder.
The 230x230nis due to the bed actually being 235x235, it increases the limits of the print area, you can safely print up to 230x230.
If your probe is going off the bed, your offsets are not correct. Make sure you have you x/y directions correct as far as +/- goes
Great video, but I got a question because I bought Creality Bltouch V1.4 but when I install the Bltouch version of jyers firmware the autolevel doesn´t work, but with the crealities firmware it works perfectly, idk if im choosing bad the version of the jyers firmware, can you help me very quick? Thank for the video btw
From my memory, jyers firmware was mainly for the ender 3 v2 that came with the v4.2.2 or v4.2.4 boards. So that could explain why it isn't working
@@EB3DPrinting Yes, i got the ender 3 v2 with 4.2.2 board but the bltouch is V1, srry if i explained badly, english is not my native language
Does anyone know if it is compatible with the 4.2.2 board with GigaDevice GD32F303 RET6 CPU?
The newer 3 v2 enders come with this cpu and not the STM32F303.
Best guide man.im new to this whole 3d thing I have printed pretty good stuff with pla stock settings. Ender 3 v2 stock board was a 4.2.2 something happened to it so creailty sent me a new 4.2.7 board. I put all that in. While I had things apart I dropped in a micro swiss all metal hot end and a bltouch/antclabs. I also have a Satsana cooling duct. Stock fans and blower. I'm at my end with this petg. I have the steps/mm set dead on. The machine. Filment is dry. And so on. I'm having problems with the retract settings. I never had to deal with that yet. If any of you have. Good cura profile let me know. I need the help
I would suggest starting with temp tower and run that. Figure out what temperature the PETG prints best at. Then go trough the retraction settings test.
Follow this guide to help you get it dialed in:
teachingtechyt.github.io/calibration.html#temp
Are you running raised temperatures for hotter filaments? I'm running a similar setup and cant get the Jyers source code to compile with the temp mods for hotter filament. Thanks for any help you can offer- Shane
So I installed this when I did it had a bug reguarding the length of the file name .So I switched to the Smith firmware but I missed the jyers options So I switched back when I saw that jyers had corrected that bug. but what I'm noticing is one of the of my sd cards continues to show smith firmware ?
The firmware file stays on the SD card. The way to tell which firmware is on the printer is to hit the "info" button on the main screen or if you have a bltouch, go to Control>Info and that will show you the firmware name and version.
When loading new firmware make sure to change it to a unique file name. Then remove the firmware files from the SDcard
Thought between smith and jyers there was enough of a name difference .So the firmware dosent actually load on the machines board I'm confused sorry .
What are the drawbacks of using the high speed firmware? I assume the normal version has some benefits compared to high speed, or the normal one would be high speed?
The main drawback is it is slightly less accurate, but from my experience that accuracy is minimal at worst. I use high speed on all my printers
@@EB3DPrinting thanks for the quick reply, I thought the only drawback would be less accuracy but I was wondering how badly it would be. Glad to hear that it’s bearly noticeable since that will save a lot of time 😅