Awesome glad the video helped out SlimCP! I have plenty of videos on my channel related to apartment maintenance, so check them out & if you have any questions just ask. Thanks for watching & Subscribe to the channel 👍
My elect hot water heater popped off the pressure valve and made quite a mess. Before I realized what had happened, I turned on the hot water in the bathroom and it nearly scalded my hands. Hours after the I turned off the CB, it was still way too hot to be usable. It is only a little older than 2 yrs. We cleaned up the mess, flipped the pressure valve up and down a few times and then turned the Cir Brkr back on. Within 2 hrs, the heater blew off again and made a real mess this time. The water temp was unbearable. Do I have a defective thermostat or maybe both? I am a fixer, not a replacer. Any ideas as to what happened to my fairly new hot water heater? Thanks Cliff
Hey man! I was double guessing my self. I just could not figure it out intel I seen you video. Hi temp thermostat and replace top & bottom. I had the same issue. Thank You very much. You were on point on everything. Thanks like how you explain & show how you are doing things. 👍👏🏼👍🙏
Here’s a trick I use when the water has completely cooled off to check whether a thermostat is actually making or breaking the circuit. I remove them and hold them over a lightbulb for about 30 seconds and listen for the click. You can then check with a meter to see if the upper one has switched continuity from one screw to the other, and if the lower one has opened. For those who are new to troubleshooting hot water heater thermostats, if you have an understanding of electrical switches it helps to think of the upper thermostat as operating like a 3-way switch (transferring current from one side to the other, originating from the common screw), and the lower thermostat as operating like a single pole switch (either on or off). Also, sometimes after you remove one, you can flip it over and you may see a little tell tale sign of blackened metal from inside the holes on the back. This usually indicates which thermostat has failed. Anytime I’ve seen this and then did the test with the lightbulb, the thermostat that had the black carbon deposits turned out to be the bad one. But they don’t always show that. It’s just more reassuring that you got the right one when they do. After seeing that black on the lower thermostat, I bet if you tested it over a light bulb you’d find it was the one that had failed. I agree, replace both thermostats and it won’t be an issue, but if you have budget restraints, or limited supply on hand, you can track down the one that failed and replace it only.
I like the idea of the light bulb trick, but with the rapid decline in incandescent bulbs, it's not as feasible anymore. What would you recommend in place of a light bulb? I imagine an open flame would not be a good idea due to carbon deposits and potentially damaging the thermostat.
@@TheSlimCognito appliance bulbs are incandescent, and this trick also works with just a 7 watt nightlight bulb, it just takes longer. The CFL bulbs also get pretty hot. Just be careful with them cause the crack easier. You might also carefully try this over a stove burner, using the edge of it, on lower heat.
@@duanebledsoe7566 that's true. Appliance bulbs are still incandescent, but using a bulb in a fridge or stove might be tricky. The stove burner is not a bad idea though. No need to hold it close. Even 6+ inches above will get hot unless it's infrared.
@@TheSlimCognito I used an appliance bulb and one of the old single bulb lamp bases like you’d see in a basement with a pull chain on it, and I put this on a 4” octagon box and wired an extension cord to this to use as a test station for these. What I do when I get a water heater call that needs thermostats is just replace both of them so I get the right one, then go back to the shop with the old ones and figure out which one is bad over top of the lightbulb. I keep the good one and toss the bad one.
Hope you can figure it out from the troubleshooting steps in the video. Make sure power is off when removing covers & testing ohms or continuity. Thanks for watching Ravi & Subscribe to the channel 👍
Awesome video. Recently had a call out for a similar issue and I've only ever replaced tanks entirely. Might be worth noting 120F is a perfect nesting environment for legionella. We learned to never set it to 120 for electric tanks and the setting should be removed entirely for peoples safety. I believe its fine with gas appliances to set them to 120F
The hardest part of this job for me was the learning curve in testing and replacement of the thermostats and the heating coils. The most time-consuming part was waiting for the water heater to empty. The most contentious moments were to disengage locking mechanisms before removing the thermostats (that is, being careful not to distort the locking mechanisms). Actually, I bought the generic "tuneup kit" from Lowes for about $35 which includes the two heating coils and both thermostats. After replacing the coils and still experiencing the problem, I took a deep dive stated in this and other videos and focused on malfunctioning thermostats and properly diagnosing heating coils issues. Behore, replacing the thermostats,, I used adhesive backed , 1/4 IN color dots on the wires sheathing and close on the thermostat wiring terminals so I could identify where to connect the wires on the new thermostats. I also took a picture of the thermostat. One unique that I encounteredv was that the black wired that travels from the lower thermostat could not reach the terminal on the new upper thermostat because the upper OEM (old) thermostat was positioned lower than the generic (new) thermostat. So I had to extend that wire so it could reach the new upper terminal al. Anyone else encounter this problem?
No I haven't had that issue. I always buy OEM replacement parts. Make sure the new thermostats are in the mounting brackets properly and the back of the thermostats are flush against the water tank otherwise they don't work properly. They need to sense the heat from the tank to work as they are designed to. Hopefully you got the right kit, you need to make sure the wattage is the same & the thermostats are for an upper & lower element setup. Hope that helps & subscribe to the channel 🛠️👍
Thanks for the video I’ve got a bad thermostat! Thanks to you I diagnosed why my water wasn’t getting hot enough! How do I know which replacement ones to get??
Glad the video helped out. I have them linked in the video description. Thanks for watching neomacchio4692 & help support the channel by subscribing 🛠️👍
How do you check the voltage for the bottom thermostat? I replaced both elements and both thermostats, but I'm not reading voltage on the bottom thermostat
You need to have the bottom thermostat set at a higher temperature than the top thermostat for voltage to go to the bottom thermostat & element since the top element always runs first & once it's satisfied then the bottom one turns on. Thanks for watching Ron & help support the channel by subscribing 🛠️👍
So I have a water heater that's not working and the reset button is not popped out. So does that mean it's most likely either a thermostat or an element?
Did you check the main breaker at the breaker box? It could be several things, but it's hard to guess without checking a few things first. Always start with checking for power & go from there. Thanks for watching love651018 & subscribe to the channel 👍
Great video every thing tested good on my water heater. elements thermostats no popped reset button no lose or broken wires and no popped Circuit breaker but still no hot water. it does have grey box timer on it that I manually turn on but nothing. would you know anything else that could be wrong with it .
Make sure your getting proper voltage to it. It should be 240 volts. Of course only if your comfortable working with high voltage, other wise call someone. Safety first! Thanks for watching ESPN OCHO
I have a similar issue the things is no matter the temperature there is no hot water weve called maintenance to come and fix it and we get like room temperature water which is no where close to hot water. And i did this as well to see if it would fix the problem and still no hot water? Is it just broken??
It's honestly hard to say what all it could be without seeing the system. There could be a mixing valve on the water line that is bad, one of the elements, thermostats, cold water back feeding, etc.....so unfortunately I can't really say if it's broken or not. Thanks for watching babbyweeb5693 & subscribe to the channel 👍
Great video, thank you. I just ordered the tools and supplies to do the same check. I have some hot water and I can hear the top element working but not the bottom after my Main Circuit breaker tripped. The top thermostat breaker did not trip. I called a plumber and he didn’t do any tests. He just said it was internal wiring and I would need a new water heater. Does that sound right? Unit is 9 years old. I plan on flushing and testing as you described. Thank you sir.
Sounds like he is trying to sell you a new water heater from what your saying. If you tested the components out & found that the bottom element is not working then you know what the issue is. At 9 years old I would replace both elements & both thermostats. Thanks for watching Bryan & Subscribe to the channel 👍
What AM said plus a bit more- each element is supposed to energize one at a time. If the controller piece which is supposed to switch between the two hangs up and energizes both at once, that's what gives you the breaker trip. The red button didn't pop out because the temp didn't exceed its threshold. It's a thermal, not a current trip device. Don't know you'd definitely need to replace the elements, but the thermostats for sure. If you have or know someone who will lend you a clamp-on ammeter, look for identical current on both wires to the elements. If it's the same, element is good. If not, replace.
The shiester scammer thief plumber you hired is a corrupt crook lying criminal. He was definitely just trying to sell you a new water heater for around $1000 to $2000 installed of course. Just get the $35 tune up kit and it will be like new again. No need to replace water heater unless it's leaking. T & P valve, Anode rod and cold hot braided water lines hoses should be replaced too after 6 to 10 years or so. Always turn off breaker to heater and still check for voltage to be sure no current leaking from breaker. The scammers out there will empty your bank account if you let them. Too many dishonest robbers out there. It doesn't mean anything anymore if they are licensed, bonded and insured, most don't know what they are doing, a bunch of hackers. I repaired mine and it's like brand new, or buy a new one for $450 on up and install your self. It will save you thousands!! Greed running wild now in USA TITANIC!!
What do you do if yube replaced both tstats and elements but still dont get power going to either element but i have 240 going into the top 2 screws and have continuity on everything
Sounds like there's something wrong with the wiring from the top of the water heater to the top thermostat. That's basically the only thing it could be. Hope that helps. Thanks for watching C280S & subscribe to the channel 👍
I am having a hard time understanding why the bottom one is set higher than the top one, when the top one turns on first and usually heats up 75% of your tank before going to your bottom. I just replaced both top and bottom elements. The continuity on both showed strong numbers, but the seals on them were leaking. So i decided just to replace them with new elements. It worked for 3 days and now it tripped the circuit again. When you did your continuity/resistance, it still showed the thermostat to have continuity, but yet you still replaced them. What is the point of even testing them then? Mine is a 2016, I should just replace the thermostats while I am at it huh? I drained the unit and cleaned it out. My testing meter is different than yours. It's the red one./ Can you explain in detail steps what you are suppose to do to test the thermostats? I think im stilll lost. First is a safety test.. check the power by turn my meter on AC to make sure no power is coming in after I turned breaks off Second is to check continuity of elements Third is to check the terminals on the thermostat, which is where I am super confused about.
So I tested my top thermostat and the left side has continuity and beeps but the right side screws stay at 1 and it doesn’t beep does that mean anything?
If the top thermostat is calling for heat the bottom element wouldn't be on. Only one is on at a time. Of course with the power turned OFF to the water heater. Turn the bottom thermostat up higher than what the top one is set at & try the continuity test again. It should show continuity & if it doesn't you have a bad thermostat. If you are replacing one, just replace them both. They're not expensive & best to do both. Thanks for watching & subscribe to the channel chandlertaylor8114. 👍 I have the parts linked in the video description as well.
UEi Clamp Meter. Here's a link from Amazon, this model is the one below mine which you wouldn't need the one I have cause my one also has K-Type Thermocouple ports for temperature while I'm working on air conditioning systems. The link I'm sending you is all you would need & it's a good meter as well for only $80. Thanks for watching Connie & subscribe to the channel 👍 www.amazon.com/UEi-Test-Instruments-DL369-Digital/dp/B0038ZQI1E/ref=mp_s_a_1_5?crid=26TDOSN69LVXE&keywords=uei+clamp+meter&qid=1689729562&sprefix=UEi+clamp+%2Caps%2C152&sr=8-5
I tried to conduct the continuity test on both the upper and lower thermostats but didn't get anything from either of them. But my electric water heater still works after resetting once a day. Is that possible or improbable?
It's possible you tested it at the incorrect locations. Or you didn't turn the thermostat temperature dial to the correct position (meaning all the way up or all the way down) depending on which one you are testing & what the water temperature is at the time of testing. I go over all that in the video & maybe you didn't factor in one of those to get the correct reading. Those are just some thoughts but it's hard to say without seeing it myself of course. Hope that helps. Thanks for watching Popeyesfriedchicken1884 & subscribe to the channel 👍
My reset button has not tripped. Element checked out good (resistance high by like 5 ohms), No hot water, single element water heater. Must be thermostat correct? I get resistance between leads of thermostat as well so it seems good but hasn't tripped. Any other way to test thermostat?
What voltage is your water heater 240 or 120? Also, do you know what the wattage is of the element? It will be stamped on the end of it on one of the sides near the screws where the wires hook up. An element should only have 7.5% + or - resistance of what it's rated for. Once u find out what the voltage & wattage is let me know & I can tell you if your element is in range resistance wise. Thanks for watching Robert & subscribe to the channel 👍
@@ApartmentMaintenance I will double check the wattage, it's 240. I believe it's well within 7%. I'm at like 17 ohms on it. I'm going to disconnect all wiring again and test between all terminals. It's my parent's water heater and they had it maxed out to 150, still no tripped button
@@roblincoln10 If it's a 3000W element then your reading of 17 ohms is fine cause 3000w elements at 240 volts should be around 18 ohms. The 4500W elements are the most common elements, they should be around 12.4ohms to 12.7ohms. So if your parents have a 4500W element and it's reading 17 ohms, that is more than the 7.5% + or - cause 7.5% is a 0.93 ohm difference. So finding out the wattage is crucial to troubleshooting and finding the replacement cause you can't use a different wattage element.
Did you check the elements? Also do you have proper voltage to the water heater? Make sure the reset button on the top thermostat doesn't need pressed in. Thanks for watching rain man & Subscribe to the channel 👍
The video was showing how to troubleshoot the water heater & I said what the readings should be. I also showed the multimeter so not sure what u mean by showing the meter closer?
@@ApartmentMaintenance I couldn't see it that well...most multimeters are the same right some just have more options? And what do the k's mean that are in the ohm section there's like 20 k 200 k?
@@ApartmentMaintenance I went through all your vids I know there's vids out there on how to use a multimeter and all it's functions but if you could make one that'd be awesome
So what good is doing all those checks when they all checked out good but it was still popping the reset, your replacing both thermostates anyways. So this really doesn't help me at all. Because everything checked out good but your still swapping out parts. Lesson I just learned is if your water heater is popping the reset button just replace the thermostats and be done with it.
I was showing everything that you need to check so you can find a faulty part. If your reset is tripping like mine was, that is because when the thermostat would turn the element on it wouldn't turn it off when the proper temperature was reached. When you test the contacts with a meter everything will work properly but you can't simulate its sensing temperature unless u remove it & heat the back of the thermostat up. When that's the case you just replace the thermostat. Rule of thumb is you always replace both no matter which one is faulty. Hope that all clears things up a bit. Thanks for watching & subscribe to the channel 👍
I ran out of hot water and found the red button had tripped. But I also noticed a reduction of water pressure when taking a bath. How could this be related?
The pressure wouldn't be related to the button tripped. With the button being tripped you would just not have any hot water. Thanks for watching Zurdo & Subscribe to the channel 👍
Great video and explanation of how to troubleshoot them. It's really helpful for people like me who just got into the field.
Awesome glad the video helped out SlimCP! I have plenty of videos on my channel related to apartment maintenance, so check them out & if you have any questions just ask. Thanks for watching & Subscribe to the channel 👍
My elect hot water heater popped off the pressure valve and made quite a mess. Before I realized what had happened, I turned on the hot water in the bathroom and it nearly scalded my hands. Hours after the I turned off the CB, it was still way too hot to be usable. It is only a little older than 2 yrs. We cleaned up the mess, flipped the pressure valve up and down a few times and then turned the Cir Brkr back on. Within 2 hrs, the heater blew off again and made a real mess this time. The water temp was unbearable. Do I have a defective thermostat or maybe both? I am a fixer, not a replacer. Any ideas as to what happened to my fairly new hot water heater? Thanks Cliff
Good job as always. Great explanation of trouble shooting the unit. Thanks for sharing! Stay safe out there!
Appreciate that Phillip! Thanks for watching & stay safe out there as well brother. 👍
This is a great step by step trouble shooting guide. It helped me find the issue with my water heater.
Glad to hear the video helped you out. Thanks for watching Lance & help support the channel by subscribing 👍
Hey man! I was double guessing my self. I just could not figure it out intel I seen you video. Hi temp thermostat and replace top & bottom. I had the same issue. Thank You very much. You were on point on everything. Thanks like how you explain & show how you are doing things. 👍👏🏼👍🙏
Appreciate that! Glad the video helped out. Thanks for watching Ralzam2386 & Subscribe to the channel 👍
Here’s a trick I use when the water has completely cooled off to check whether a thermostat is actually making or breaking the circuit. I remove them and hold them over a lightbulb for about 30 seconds and listen for the click. You can then check with a meter to see if the upper one has switched continuity from one screw to the other, and if the lower one has opened.
For those who are new to troubleshooting hot water heater thermostats, if you have an understanding of electrical switches it helps to think of the upper thermostat as operating like a 3-way switch (transferring current from one side to the other, originating from the common screw), and the lower thermostat as operating like a single pole switch (either on or off).
Also, sometimes after you remove one, you can flip it over and you may see a little tell tale sign of blackened metal from inside the holes on the back. This usually indicates which thermostat has failed. Anytime I’ve seen this and then did the test with the lightbulb, the thermostat that had the black carbon deposits turned out to be the bad one. But they don’t always show that. It’s just more reassuring that you got the right one when they do. After seeing that black on the lower thermostat, I bet if you tested it over a light bulb you’d find it was the one that had failed. I agree, replace both thermostats and it won’t be an issue, but if you have budget restraints, or limited supply on hand, you can track down the one that failed and replace it only.
I like the idea of the light bulb trick, but with the rapid decline in incandescent bulbs, it's not as feasible anymore. What would you recommend in place of a light bulb? I imagine an open flame would not be a good idea due to carbon deposits and potentially damaging the thermostat.
@@TheSlimCognito appliance bulbs are incandescent, and this trick also works with just a 7 watt nightlight bulb, it just takes longer. The CFL bulbs also get pretty hot. Just be careful with them cause the crack easier. You might also carefully try this over a stove burner, using the edge of it, on lower heat.
@@duanebledsoe7566 that's true. Appliance bulbs are still incandescent, but using a bulb in a fridge or stove might be tricky. The stove burner is not a bad idea though. No need to hold it close. Even 6+ inches above will get hot unless it's infrared.
@@TheSlimCognito I used an appliance bulb and one of the old single bulb lamp bases like you’d see in a basement with a pull chain on it, and I put this on a 4” octagon box and wired an extension cord to this to use as a test station for these. What I do when I get a water heater call that needs thermostats is just replace both of them so I get the right one, then go back to the shop with the old ones and figure out which one is bad over top of the lightbulb. I keep the good one and toss the bad one.
Great tip with the light bulb. I'll have to try that out next time. Thanks for watching!
Very informative video... as you probably know already, my heater is acting up atm...
Hope you can figure it out from the troubleshooting steps in the video. Make sure power is off when removing covers & testing ohms or continuity. Thanks for watching Ravi & Subscribe to the channel 👍
Excellent job explaining, video quality, and step by step troubleshooting.
Appreciate that Steve 👍 Thanks for watching & subscribe to the channel if your not already. 💪
Awesome video. Thank you 🙏
Appreciate that. Thanks for watching Darren & help support the channel by subscribing 🛠️👍
Good video well explained . Thankyou.
Glad the video helped out Luis! Thanks for watching & subscribe to the channel 👍
Awesome video. Recently had a call out for a similar issue and I've only ever replaced tanks entirely. Might be worth noting 120F is a perfect nesting environment for legionella. We learned to never set it to 120 for electric tanks and the setting should be removed entirely for peoples safety. I believe its fine with gas appliances to set them to 120F
Interesting 🧐 I haven't heard that one. Great tip. Thanks for watching Conor Ryan & subscribe to the channel if you're not already 🛠️👍
The hardest part of this job for me was the learning curve in testing and replacement of the thermostats and the heating coils. The most time-consuming part was waiting for the water heater to empty. The most contentious moments were to disengage locking mechanisms before removing the thermostats (that is, being careful not to distort the locking mechanisms).
Actually, I bought the generic "tuneup kit" from Lowes for about $35 which includes the two heating coils and both thermostats. After replacing the coils and still experiencing the problem, I took a deep dive stated in this and other videos and focused on malfunctioning thermostats and properly diagnosing heating coils issues.
Behore, replacing the thermostats,, I used adhesive backed , 1/4 IN color dots on the wires sheathing and close on the thermostat wiring terminals so I could identify where to connect the wires on the new thermostats. I also took a picture of the thermostat.
One unique that I encounteredv was that the black wired that travels from the lower thermostat could not reach the terminal on the new upper thermostat because the upper OEM (old) thermostat was positioned lower than the generic (new) thermostat. So I had to extend that wire so it could reach the new upper terminal al. Anyone else encounter this problem?
No I haven't had that issue. I always buy OEM replacement parts. Make sure the new thermostats are in the mounting brackets properly and the back of the thermostats are flush against the water tank otherwise they don't work properly. They need to sense the heat from the tank to work as they are designed to. Hopefully you got the right kit, you need to make sure the wattage is the same & the thermostats are for an upper & lower element setup. Hope that helps & subscribe to the channel 🛠️👍
I just put a new one in and no hot water and everything is good
@@Lulu_hand_jk Make sure you are getting the proper voltage & everything is hooked up properly.
Thanks for the video I’ve got a bad thermostat! Thanks to you I diagnosed why my water wasn’t getting hot enough!
How do I know which replacement ones to get??
Glad the video helped out. I have them linked in the video description. Thanks for watching neomacchio4692 & help support the channel by subscribing 🛠️👍
That was pretty cool it was very easy to understand
Appreciate that Pixe. Thanks for watching & Subscribe to the channel 👍
Best video ever thank you so much...
Appreciate that. Thanks for watching Wisamabazly & help support the channel by subscribing 🛠️👍
best video I could find and I looked hard.
@@cheezer8888 I appreciate that. Thanks for watching cheezer8888 & help support the channel by subscribing 🛠️👍
Excellent explanation. Thank you !!
Appreciate that Felix. Thanks for watching & Subscribe to the channel 👍
excellent video !
Appreciate that! Thanks for watching AmirJaden & hell support the channel by subscribing 🛠️👍
just subscribed, video helped me save money today. Thanks again !
@@amirjaden Nice!! Glad the video helped out.
Good advice to always just replace both stats. They do wear out.
Agreed! Thanks for watching bgregg55 & happy New Year! 👍
Thank you Sir!
No problem! Glad the video helped you out. Thanks for watching Ryan & help support the channel by subscribing 🛠️👍
How do you check the voltage for the bottom thermostat? I replaced both elements and both thermostats, but I'm not reading voltage on the bottom thermostat
You need to have the bottom thermostat set at a higher temperature than the top thermostat for voltage to go to the bottom thermostat & element since the top element always runs first & once it's satisfied then the bottom one turns on. Thanks for watching Ron & help support the channel by subscribing 🛠️👍
Thank you.
No problem, hope the video helped out. Thanks for watching & Subscribe to the channel Dawn 👍
So I have a water heater that's not working and the reset button is not popped out. So does that mean it's most likely either a thermostat or an element?
Did you check the main breaker at the breaker box? It could be several things, but it's hard to guess without checking a few things first. Always start with checking for power & go from there. Thanks for watching love651018 & subscribe to the channel 👍
Great video. But is it dangerous to be checking the voltage?
Yes if you don't know what you're doing or don't know how to use a meter properly. Thanks for watching Scott & subscribe to the channel bro 👍
Great job
Appreciate that Michael. Thanks for watching man 👍
Great video every thing tested good on my water heater. elements thermostats no popped reset button no lose or broken wires and no popped Circuit breaker but still no hot water. it does have grey box timer on it that I manually turn on but nothing. would you know anything else that could be wrong with it .
Make sure your getting proper voltage to it. It should be 240 volts. Of course only if your comfortable working with high voltage, other wise call someone. Safety first! Thanks for watching ESPN OCHO
I have a similar issue the things is no matter the temperature there is no hot water weve called maintenance to come and fix it and we get like room temperature water which is no where close to hot water. And i did this as well to see if it would fix the problem and still no hot water? Is it just broken??
It's honestly hard to say what all it could be without seeing the system. There could be a mixing valve on the water line that is bad, one of the elements, thermostats, cold water back feeding, etc.....so unfortunately I can't really say if it's broken or not. Thanks for watching babbyweeb5693 & subscribe to the channel 👍
Great video, thank you. I just ordered the tools and supplies to do the same check. I have some hot water and I can hear the top element working but not the bottom after my Main Circuit breaker tripped. The top thermostat breaker did not trip. I called a plumber and he didn’t do any tests. He just said it was internal wiring and I would need a new water heater. Does that sound right? Unit is 9 years old. I plan on flushing and testing as you described. Thank you sir.
Sounds like he is trying to sell you a new water heater from what your saying. If you tested the components out & found that the bottom element is not working then you know what the issue is. At 9 years old I would replace both elements & both thermostats. Thanks for watching Bryan & Subscribe to the channel 👍
What AM said plus a bit more- each element is supposed to energize one at a time. If the controller piece which is supposed to switch between the two hangs up and energizes both at once, that's what gives you the breaker trip. The red button didn't pop out because the temp didn't exceed its threshold. It's a thermal, not a current trip device. Don't know you'd definitely need to replace the elements, but the thermostats for sure. If you have or know someone who will lend you a clamp-on ammeter, look for identical current on both wires to the elements. If it's the same, element is good. If not, replace.
@@scotttodd3506 thank you
The shiester scammer thief plumber you hired is a corrupt crook lying criminal. He was definitely just trying to sell you a new water heater for around $1000 to $2000 installed of course. Just get the $35 tune up kit and it will be like new again. No need to replace water heater unless it's leaking. T & P valve, Anode rod and cold hot braided water lines hoses should be replaced too after 6 to 10 years or so. Always turn off breaker to heater and still check for voltage to be sure no current leaking from breaker. The scammers out there will empty your bank account if you let them. Too many dishonest robbers out there. It doesn't mean anything anymore if they are licensed, bonded and insured, most don't know what they are doing, a bunch of hackers. I repaired mine and it's like brand new, or buy a new one for $450 on up and install your self. It will save you thousands!! Greed running wild now in USA TITANIC!!
What do you do if yube replaced both tstats and elements but still dont get power going to either element but i have 240 going into the top 2 screws and have continuity on everything
Sounds like there's something wrong with the wiring from the top of the water heater to the top thermostat. That's basically the only thing it could be. Hope that helps. Thanks for watching C280S & subscribe to the channel 👍
@@ApartmentMaintenance decided to just replace it. Thanks for the speedy response. Keep up the great work
@@C280S No problem!
I am having a hard time understanding why the bottom one is set higher than the top one, when the top one turns on first and usually heats up 75% of your tank before going to your bottom.
I just replaced both top and bottom elements. The continuity on both showed strong numbers, but the seals on them were leaking. So i decided just to replace them with new elements.
It worked for 3 days and now it tripped the circuit again.
When you did your continuity/resistance, it still showed the thermostat to have continuity, but yet you still replaced them.
What is the point of even testing them then?
Mine is a 2016, I should just replace the thermostats while I am at it huh? I drained the unit and cleaned it out.
My testing meter is different than yours. It's the red one./
Can you explain in detail steps what you are suppose to do to test the thermostats? I think im stilll lost.
First is a safety test.. check the power by turn my meter on AC to make sure no power is coming in after I turned breaks off
Second is to check continuity of elements
Third is to check the terminals on the thermostat, which is where I am super confused about.
So I tested my top thermostat and the left side has continuity and beeps but the right side screws stay at 1 and it doesn’t beep does that mean anything?
If the top thermostat is calling for heat the bottom element wouldn't be on. Only one is on at a time. Of course with the power turned OFF to the water heater.
Turn the bottom thermostat up higher than what the top one is set at & try the continuity test again. It should show continuity & if it doesn't you have a bad thermostat. If you are replacing one, just replace them both. They're not expensive & best to do both. Thanks for watching & subscribe to the channel chandlertaylor8114. 👍
I have the parts linked in the video description as well.
What kind of voltage meter are you using
UEi Clamp Meter. Here's a link from Amazon, this model is the one below mine which you wouldn't need the one I have cause my one also has K-Type Thermocouple ports for temperature while I'm working on air conditioning systems. The link I'm sending you is all you would need & it's a good meter as well for only $80. Thanks for watching Connie & subscribe to the channel 👍
www.amazon.com/UEi-Test-Instruments-DL369-Digital/dp/B0038ZQI1E/ref=mp_s_a_1_5?crid=26TDOSN69LVXE&keywords=uei+clamp+meter&qid=1689729562&sprefix=UEi+clamp+%2Caps%2C152&sr=8-5
I tried to conduct the continuity test on both the upper and lower thermostats but didn't get anything from either of them. But my electric water heater still works after resetting once a day. Is that possible or improbable?
It's possible you tested it at the incorrect locations. Or you didn't turn the thermostat temperature dial to the correct position (meaning all the way up or all the way down) depending on which one you are testing & what the water temperature is at the time of testing. I go over all that in the video & maybe you didn't factor in one of those to get the correct reading. Those are just some thoughts but it's hard to say without seeing it myself of course. Hope that helps. Thanks for watching Popeyesfriedchicken1884 & subscribe to the channel 👍
@@ApartmentMaintenance i genuinely appreciate you taking the time to reply. thank you so much sir. liked&subscribed
@@popeyesfriedchicken1884 Appreciate it! 🛠️👍
My reset button has not tripped. Element checked out good (resistance high by like 5 ohms), No hot water, single element water heater. Must be thermostat correct? I get resistance between leads of thermostat as well so it seems good but hasn't tripped. Any other way to test thermostat?
What voltage is your water heater 240 or 120? Also, do you know what the wattage is of the element? It will be stamped on the end of it on one of the sides near the screws where the wires hook up. An element should only have 7.5% + or - resistance of what it's rated for. Once u find out what the voltage & wattage is let me know & I can tell you if your element is in range resistance wise. Thanks for watching Robert & subscribe to the channel 👍
@@ApartmentMaintenance I will double check the wattage, it's 240. I believe it's well within 7%. I'm at like 17 ohms on it. I'm going to disconnect all wiring again and test between all terminals. It's my parent's water heater and they had it maxed out to 150, still no tripped button
@@roblincoln10 If it's a 3000W element then your reading of 17 ohms is fine cause 3000w elements at 240 volts should be around 18 ohms. The 4500W elements are the most common elements, they should be around 12.4ohms to 12.7ohms. So if your parents have a 4500W element and it's reading 17 ohms, that is more than the 7.5% + or - cause 7.5% is a 0.93 ohm difference. So finding out the wattage is crucial to troubleshooting and finding the replacement cause you can't use a different wattage element.
My friend I replaced a New thermostat, but still no Hot water 💧 thanks.any ideas
Did you check the elements? Also do you have proper voltage to the water heater? Make sure the reset button on the top thermostat doesn't need pressed in. Thanks for watching rain man & Subscribe to the channel 👍
@@ApartmentMaintenance I will subscribe thanks 🙏 for the quick response.
Can these burn out and leave wire smell
Yeah the thermostats can definitely do that. Thanks for watching Garry & subscribe to the channel 👍
What's that yellow tool called?
It's a clamp meter made by Uei. The model is the Uei DL389. Thanks for watching Brayan & Subscribe to the channel 👍
I wish you showed the multimeter closer cause that's what most people don't understand
The video was showing how to troubleshoot the water heater & I said what the readings should be. I also showed the multimeter so not sure what u mean by showing the meter closer?
@@ApartmentMaintenance I couldn't see it that well...most multimeters are the same right some just have more options? And what do the k's mean that are in the ohm section there's like 20 k 200 k?
@@ApartmentMaintenance I went through all your vids I know there's vids out there on how to use a multimeter and all it's functions but if you could make one that'd be awesome
@@landonhyde4916 The K's mean thousands.
@@landonhyde4916 Yeah no problem. I planned on making a video on how to use one. I'll make that video in the near future. Thanks for watching Landon
So what good is doing all those checks when they all checked out good but it was still popping the reset, your replacing both thermostates anyways. So this really doesn't help me at all. Because everything checked out good but your still swapping out parts. Lesson I just learned is if your water heater is popping the reset button just replace the thermostats and be done with it.
I was showing everything that you need to check so you can find a faulty part. If your reset is tripping like mine was, that is because when the thermostat would turn the element on it wouldn't turn it off when the proper temperature was reached. When you test the contacts with a meter everything will work properly but you can't simulate its sensing temperature unless u remove it & heat the back of the thermostat up. When that's the case you just replace the thermostat. Rule of thumb is you always replace both no matter which one is faulty. Hope that all clears things up a bit. Thanks for watching & subscribe to the channel 👍
I ran out of hot water and found the red button had tripped. But I also noticed a reduction of water pressure when taking a bath. How could this be related?
The pressure wouldn't be related to the button tripped. With the button being tripped you would just not have any hot water. Thanks for watching Zurdo & Subscribe to the channel 👍
@@ApartmentMaintenance Thank you.
Keep this price low and i will buy again!!
Thanks for watching Dougschust1 & Subscribe to the channel 🛠️👍
Awesome video super helpful thanks
No problem! Glad the video helped out. Thanks for watching Melford & help support the channel by subscribing 🛠️👍
Great video! Thanks.
Glad the video helped out Tom. Thanks for watching & subscribe to the channel 👍