Terrific video. Short and to the point! My bottom element didn't read the correct resistance. I replaced it and now the kids can take their baths. $20 part at Lowes instead of a $600 plumbers bill. Thanks!
This is the best instructional video on line. Following this advise I repaired two electric tanks today. One was the bottom element and the other was the lower thermostat. Thanks so much for
this absolutely saved me a headache, very well detailed and showed and explained everything to troubleshoot this issue. From me and my family we thank you so much for helping us not shower in cold water. Thank you again!
What a great, simple and thorough explanation. Tomorrow I will be working on my water heater. Just hope I can get the resistance out if needed; tank is 21 years old but looks like new. No rust outside. Thank u
Love the channel & just wanted to mention this incase someone replaces their element that they think is bad by going off one thing you said with the ohm readings. You may have misspoken when you said this, but you said the ohms reading of the element should be between 15 & 18 ohms. That part is incorrect cause an element that is 4500 watts & 240 volts should have between 12 & 13 ohms, not 15 & 18. I usually see 12.4-12.8 ohms. The amperage is correct at 18.75 amps or close to it. You can use ohms law to figure that out as well but I have worked on plenty of these water heaters & on a good element somewhere between 12 & 13 ohms is pretty standard. Another way to test the element with the breaker turned OFF, is to set your meter to continuity & place each meter lead on the screws at the element you are testing & if you get continuity (a beep from your meter) that element is good since it's showing a complete path back to the meter. Great videos & keep the videos coming! 👍
I was very roughly averaging out the resistance of the heating element. Because they come in different power sizes for 240V. Anywhere from 3000W to 5500W. According to Ohm's law, the resistance would be 10.5-19.2 ohms. But thanks for sharing. It's good to know what people see in different areas.
I found a unit much like this one set out to the street. I have a hunch that it can still work so that's why I'm watching this video! I'm pooling resources to test and possibly restore. If it doesn't work out I will cannibalize the tank and make a cooker or a foundry or forge. Thanks for the informative video!
@@Your-Self If I did end up 'fixing' it and still leaks a little I'd be using it in my barn which has a lime-rock/dirt floor. But yeah, we don't really need or want leaks. It would just make the well pump run. Not to mention water flow ruts. (Bad enough already from rain) The floor is probably close to 2' or so higher in the front gradual pitch since it is a sizable barn. But it's wide open. Not an ideal situation.
Greetings to you sir.As a indian its difficult to understand the foreigners spoken english. But thank god,your english is really clearly understanding and your troubleshooting style is pretty easy to understand when compare to other you tube channel. Thanks a lot sir.
Thank you! A typhoon hit us and shorted a few of our stuff as they restoring power. So I opened the top and the button was pushed out. Hopefully I get hot water again.
Thank you! Used your video to troubleshoot my 14.5 years old water heater; top unit ok (V, I) but bottom unit is dead. Before it died, water was extremely hot (though both were at 125F). More likely both heating elements are dead
I have what I've just found out is called a "table top" water heater. The brand is different but the basic concept to test should be the same: Thermostat, elements, wiring. According to the date code, it was made in 1987. So, it's been going for 37 years.
Great video, and wonder if you could give me some advice ? Firstly I have a Rheem electric water heater. ( Marathon brand) When I moved into this house, it was producing scorching hot water. Waste of electricity. I decided to switch the braker off at the panel, and the water stayed hot enough for about 3 - 4 days. After the water cooled, I'd turn the braker back on at the main panel. Now it has stopped working altogether. Do you think because I was switching the braker at the panel on and off for about 6 months, this could have caused the braker to go bad, or the reset button to pop out ? What is the most likely ?? I know I should have just adjusted the thermostat temperatures to begin with, but was unsure how to do it. If you could advise - that be great :) and very good easy to understand video, and I subscribed to your channel.
When you press the reset button, does your heater work? If not, the breaker may have burned out. If it works, the thermostat is probably faulty. I'd start by replacing both thermostats (cheap and easy), and it may solve the issue.
Great video, I wished I would have seen this one first. I emptied the water, can I run the same tests without water in the tank? Or would there be different tests to do without water?
Do NOT plug in the water heater without the water inside. It will burn out. But you can run a resistance check on the heating elements without the water. And may as well replace those heating elements since the water is out.
Great video. Thank you so much! Would you try helping me with the question below. I have a Whirlpool Energy Smart, 50 Gal, Model: EE3J50RD045V. I have 240 VAC coming into the control board sitting on top on the unit, but the power LED is OFF at all times. I tried resetting the RESET button on the control board as well as resetting the main water heater breaker (2x30 Amp) in the outside power box, but that didn't fix the problem. In the upper and lower connection board, there's no individual reset or temp settings; there's only the two wire connections for the upper (blue and yellow) and lower (blue and orange) elements, as well as two smaller wires (two orange on top and two black on bottom) for the top/bottom thermostats, I assume. The temperature setting (just one, for both upper/lower elements, I assume) is also located on the control board. I did test for power on both elements, they both read 0V, even though there's 240v coming into the control board. I then turned the main power off and tested for resistance on both elements after disconnecting one of the two wires to the elements; they both read near 13 ohms (sounds like a decent reading for this 10-15 year old heater). Did my control board quit and needs replacement? Did my thermostats go out and need replacement? By the way, I also set my thermostat to max setting (150F) hoping it will trigger the thermostats. Nothing happened . Obviously, I have not hot water. Appreciate your time and assistance.
If you have 240 VAC on the red & black wires coming to the control board but the indicator light is not lit, most likely the board itself is bad. I'd try replacing that board if you can find it... possibly used.
No. To check the voltage, the power needs to be turned back on. But if you are not comfortable with live electricity, please don't do the voltage test. You can check the resistance of heating elements with the power OFF. Just like at the end of this video.
hello i did this test on my new ao smith electric w.h and i test the red and balck wire coming from the panel. and i only get 110 not 240 , but water heater is working water is hot , it wasnt heating at first but did a test and a replace the upper thermostat and everything started working well i guess , but im a little concern about not getting 240 vt just 110
Well, I haven't seen it, but I guess the water heater can be 110V. I'd check the label on the water heater. For example, mine says "240-208 Volts AC Only." Maybe yours is rated at 110-120?
@@Your-Self yeah mine say same volts ac 240..phase 1 4500 watts all that info and about elements ,, so that got me really confused when i tested gave me 110 not 240 ,so it wasnt heating the water but like i say i tested i follower your recommendations and ended changing the upper thermo so now i got really hot water . idk if my voltmitter is not reading good ?
The water heater should be connected to a double-breaker. Is yours single? The heating element can work on 110V but will take twice as long to heat up water.
@@Your-Self yes it is connected to a double breaker , 30 . i believe my volt meter is misreading , since i tried reading other water heater voltage and they red the same volts 110 ,, so i believe is the volt meter or is just reading one leg cable which is 110 , so both makes 220 240 ,,, since i reaplced the upper thermostat water heater is working pretty good had really hot water , so thanks to your video really helped a lot
Yep, just follow the video. If the top thermostat gets about 240VAC and it's set to at least 125°F but nothing goes to the heating element, the thermostat is bad. Keep in mind that only one of the elements can get the power at the time. So check both the top and the bottom elements. Do any of them get voltage?
Respected sir greetings to you. I am watching from QATAR.As you teach I do all test for upper and lower thermostat and upper and lower heating elements. Upper and lower temp also set at 140 F. But still I get normal hot water.not good hot.what is the reason sir.thanks
I'm not sure if water heaters in Qatar are the same as in the USA. But generally, if all components are good, the problem could be with the broken DIP TUBE. Google how to replace it.
I should've mentioned, that my heating element is rated at 4500 Watts and 240 Volts. So if you divide 4500 by 240 = 18.75 Ohms. Another popular element is a 3800 W at 240 V = 15.83 Ohms. Keep in mind that cheap multimeters may not be very accurate, so go with a "good enough" approach.
(!!PANIC!!) Please help, my heater stopped heating water.These are my valuations... Step 1: Failed! Step 2: Success! Both up and down show 12.6+ ohms of resistance. According to your info, the heating elements (top, btm) are A1. Please help as My dog needs a hot shower! Why is step 1 Failed?
My water heater is acting strange. About every two days the reset button trips after it gets too hot. And then it gets cold again. This tells me one of the thermostats is bad or there is a short in one of the elements. What makes it strange is that it takes about 48 hours to overheat and turn off after I reset and turn it back on. My landlords won't do anything until the entire unit fails.
You can try replacing both thermostats if comfortable working with electricity. It's fairly cheap and easy to do. A shorted element is a bit more involved.
@@Your-Self Thank you for replying. I do realize either a thermostat or an element is bad but I think it's unusual that it takes 2 days to overheat. Am I wrong?
![KSI - Dirty [Official Visualiser]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/VoDh1h1dPUE/mqdefault.jpg)
Terrific video. Short and to the point! My bottom element didn't read the correct resistance. I replaced it and now the kids can take their baths. $20 part at Lowes instead of a $600 plumbers bill. Thanks!
Good to hear it!
This is the best instructional video on line. Following this advise I repaired two electric tanks today. One was the bottom element and the other was the lower thermostat. Thanks so much for
Great to hear!
Clearest water heater diagnostic explanation of them all!!!! Thank you so much!!!
Glad it was helpful!
this absolutely saved me a headache, very well detailed and showed and explained everything to troubleshoot this issue. From me and my family we thank you so much for helping us not shower in cold water. Thank you again!
Glad it helped
Watched 5 videos and you the first to demonstrate checking amperage with the clamp on. Good video 👍👍
Thanks 👍
What a great, simple and thorough explanation. Tomorrow I will be working on my water heater. Just hope I can get the resistance out if needed; tank is 21 years old but looks like new. No rust outside. Thank u
Good luck!
clear, concise, specific. great video.
Much appreciated!
Thank you for this.
Like others have said, with your guidance, I was able to diagnose and repair myself.
Amazing.
Good to hear it!
Simple and easy to understand explanation of how to test out the elements and thermostat
Glad it was helpful!
Thank you so much for making this video. I was able to troubleshoot my water heater and save big money.
Good to hear!
You are a GOD send! Thank you so much!
This is the best video on youtube so far ! Thank you !
Wow, thanks!
I'm glad I found this one! Thank you!
Love the channel & just wanted to mention this incase someone replaces their element that they think is bad by going off one thing you said with the ohm readings. You may have misspoken when you said this, but you said the ohms reading of the element should be between 15 & 18 ohms. That part is incorrect cause an element that is 4500 watts & 240 volts should have between 12 & 13 ohms, not 15 & 18. I usually see 12.4-12.8 ohms. The amperage is correct at 18.75 amps or close to it. You can use ohms law to figure that out as well but I have worked on plenty of these water heaters & on a good element somewhere between 12 & 13 ohms is pretty standard. Another way to test the element with the breaker turned OFF, is to set your meter to continuity & place each meter lead on the screws at the element you are testing & if you get continuity (a beep from your meter) that element is good since it's showing a complete path back to the meter. Great videos & keep the videos coming! 👍
I was very roughly averaging out the resistance of the heating element. Because they come in different power sizes for 240V. Anywhere from 3000W to 5500W. According to Ohm's law, the resistance would be 10.5-19.2 ohms.
But thanks for sharing. It's good to know what people see in different areas.
Excellent video, simple step by step
Glad you liked it
I found a unit much like this one set out to the street. I have a hunch that it can still work so that's why I'm watching this video! I'm pooling resources to test and possibly restore. If it doesn't work out I will cannibalize the tank and make a cooker or a foundry or forge.
Thanks for the informative video!
Make sure the water heater doesn't leak under pressure before you buy any replacement parts.
@@Your-Self Excellent point! Now really I'm thinking it's much more likely that I'll be doing some metal work rather than electrical.😉👍
@@Your-Self If I did end up 'fixing' it and still leaks a little I'd be using it in my barn which has a lime-rock/dirt floor. But yeah, we don't really need or want leaks. It would just make the well pump run. Not to mention water flow ruts. (Bad enough already from rain) The floor is probably close to 2' or so higher in the front gradual pitch since it is a sizable barn. But it's wide open. Not an ideal situation.
Greetings to you sir.As a indian its difficult to understand the foreigners spoken english. But thank god,your english is really clearly understanding and your troubleshooting style is pretty easy to understand when compare to other you tube channel. Thanks a lot sir.
Thanks for watching!
Super easy to understand. Thank you.
Great to hear!
Great video. Very informative and made my problem easy to resolve. Thanks bud. 🤠👍
Good to hear that!
Thank you! A typhoon hit us and shorted a few of our stuff as they restoring power. So I opened the top and the button was pushed out. Hopefully I get hot water again.
Thank you for the video. Blessings to you.
Crystal clear- Great clip
Thanks for sharing- Liked & Shared
Glad it helped!
True pleya explaining wata heta !!! Awesome!!!
Great Video Quick and to the point
Appreciate it!
Thank you for this video. Just saved me a service call on something so easy..
Great to hear!
Ty for this, was able to reset the heater when the breaker didn’t do it.
Glad it worked out!
You just saved me a bunch of money. I love you man.😉💯👍👍👍
Good to hear it!
this was great, adjusting the temperature up gave me hot water and seemed to fix the issue.
Awesome! Just be careful, the water may get scalding hot.
didnt last, still lukewarm water now. but i did all the test you showed and everything passed. is there anything else it could be?
@@Your-Self
Search "How to replace a water heater dip tube."
That could be your problem.
thank you!@@Your-Self
Very well explained. Thank you
Glad it was helpful!
Thank you! Used your video to troubleshoot my 14.5 years old water heater; top unit ok (V, I) but bottom unit is dead. Before it died, water was extremely hot (though both were at 125F). More likely both heating elements are dead
I had the same issue last night. Water was very hot and then went cold. Trouble shooting this morning. Was it the elements or the thermostat???
Mine was the reset button! THANK YOU!
Very Well explain Video ..THANKS
Thanks for watching!
Great explanation
Glad it was helpful!
Thank you so much for this information,I appreciate it very much
Glad it was helpful!
Great explainer, thank you.
Glad it was helpful!
@@Your-Self It's going to be helpful, keep up your very good concise work, thanks again.
Thank you very much for this helpful video.
Glad it was helpful!
@@Your-Self Thank you, We are waiting for the Element replacement video.
Amazing video very detailed. And you've tought me alot ty brother .
Glad to hear it
Outstanding. Great video advise.
Glad you enjoyed it!
I have what I've just found out is called a "table top" water heater. The brand is different but the basic concept to test should be the same: Thermostat, elements, wiring. According to the date code, it was made in 1987. So, it's been going for 37 years.
Great video, and wonder if you could give me some advice ? Firstly I have a Rheem
electric water heater. ( Marathon brand) When I moved into this house, it was
producing scorching hot water. Waste of electricity. I decided to switch the braker
off at the panel, and the water stayed hot enough for about 3 - 4 days. After the
water cooled, I'd turn the braker back on at the main panel. Now it has stopped
working altogether. Do you think because I was switching the braker at the panel
on and off for about 6 months, this could have caused the braker to go bad, or
the reset button to pop out ? What is the most likely ?? I know I should have just
adjusted the thermostat temperatures to begin with, but was unsure how to do it.
If you could advise - that be great :) and very good easy to understand video, and
I subscribed to your channel.
When you press the reset button, does your heater work?
If not, the breaker may have burned out.
If it works, the thermostat is probably faulty. I'd start by replacing both thermostats (cheap and easy), and it may solve the issue.
Well done. Thanks
Thanks for watching!
Great video, I wished I would have seen this one first. I emptied the water, can I run the same tests without water in the tank? Or would there be different tests to do without water?
Do NOT plug in the water heater without the water inside. It will burn out.
But you can run a resistance check on the heating elements without the water.
And may as well replace those heating elements since the water is out.
I get 120 on each leg on thermo, but no 240 across? Bad thermo?
Well done Thank you
Great video
Thanks for the visit
THANK YOU SO MUCH!!!!
So I can’t reset the reset button. It’s out but doesn’t want to be pushed back in
Mine either
Mines in and won’t come out
You can’t just go straight for it, you have to talk a little dirty to it first. 🤔☺️😉🤪
@@vellasdad sameee withh mineee
Swapped it out, and check your upper and lower elements. If there is high moisture within tank could trip the system.
Great video. Thank you so much! Would you try helping me with the question below. I have a Whirlpool Energy Smart, 50 Gal, Model: EE3J50RD045V. I have 240 VAC coming into the control board sitting on top on the unit, but the power LED is OFF at all times. I tried resetting the RESET button on the control board as well as resetting the main water heater breaker (2x30 Amp) in the outside power box, but that didn't fix the problem. In the upper and lower connection board, there's no individual reset or temp settings; there's only the two wire connections for the upper (blue and yellow) and lower (blue and orange) elements, as well as two smaller wires (two orange on top and two black on bottom) for the top/bottom thermostats, I assume. The temperature setting (just one, for both upper/lower elements, I assume) is also located on the control board. I did test for power on both elements, they both read 0V, even though there's 240v coming into the control board. I then turned the main power off and tested for resistance on both elements after disconnecting one of the two wires to the elements; they both read near 13 ohms (sounds like a decent reading for this 10-15 year old heater). Did my control board quit and needs replacement? Did my thermostats go out and need replacement? By the way, I also set my thermostat to max setting (150F) hoping it will trigger the thermostats. Nothing happened . Obviously, I have not hot water. Appreciate your time and assistance.
If you have 240 VAC on the red & black wires coming to the control board but the indicator light is not lit, most likely the board itself is bad.
I'd try replacing that board if you can find it... possibly used.
good and very help full
Glad to hear that
Okay but what if your getting voltage to the tank but from the top wiring plate to the thermostat has no voltage, how is that?
I Didn't even check the circuit breaker first saved me a lot of time😂
Thank you so much!
Glad it helped!
Hey so in the first part at the top are you supposed to turn the power off when checking the voltage?
No. To check the voltage, the power needs to be turned back on.
But if you are not comfortable with live electricity, please don't do the voltage test.
You can check the resistance of heating elements with the power OFF. Just like at the end of this video.
Hope it helps.
Thanks. Great sir
👍 grasias por la info
Why would you switch multimeters in the middle of the test and then go back to the one you started with is that just to confuse us
I have 1948 amps on on element and1892 on another element. Water heat is 4500 watt and 240V.
The amperage sounds good!
I appreciate you
What if all my heaters components are good what could be the problem i am receiving power aswell
hello i did this test on my new ao smith electric w.h and i test the red and balck wire coming from the panel. and i only get 110 not 240 , but water heater is working water is hot , it wasnt heating at first but did a test and a replace the upper thermostat and everything started working well i guess , but im a little concern about not getting 240 vt just 110
Well, I haven't seen it, but I guess the water heater can be 110V.
I'd check the label on the water heater. For example, mine says "240-208 Volts AC Only."
Maybe yours is rated at 110-120?
@@Your-Self yeah mine say same volts ac 240..phase 1 4500 watts all that info and about elements ,, so that got me really confused when i tested gave me 110 not 240 ,so it wasnt heating the water but like i say i tested i follower your recommendations and ended changing the upper thermo so now i got really hot water . idk if my voltmitter is not reading good ?
The water heater should be connected to a double-breaker. Is yours single?
The heating element can work on 110V but will take twice as long to heat up water.
@@Your-Self yes it is connected to a double breaker , 30 . i believe my volt meter is misreading , since i tried reading other water heater voltage and they red the same volts 110 ,, so i believe is the volt meter or is just reading one leg cable which is 110 , so both makes 220 240 ,,, since i reaplced the upper thermostat water heater is working pretty good had really hot water , so thanks to your video really helped a lot
So no voltage at all going to the top element means the thermostat is bad?
Yep, just follow the video. If the top thermostat gets about 240VAC and it's set to at least 125°F but nothing goes to the heating element, the thermostat is bad.
Keep in mind that only one of the elements can get the power at the time. So check both the top and the bottom elements. Do any of them get voltage?
I replaced the thermostat and element also a new breaker and still not getting any hot water. I hit the reset button but i didn't see stay in
Okay what can I do if I don't have one of them test things??
It depends on what exactly your problem is.
Usually, replacing heating elements and/or thermostats fixes most problems.
When I removed the piece of insolation where all the wires are everything was wet there could the be the problem ??
Most likely, the water tank has a hole, so it needs to be replaced.
Unless there is something above the tank that's dripping water on it.
I only get 71V on the incoming wires. What could that be?
It could be a bad breaker or a wiring issue between breaker and water heater… probably need to call an electrician
What can I do if the reset button doesn’t want to be pushed back in !! Thank you
You can try replacing the top thermostat (where the reset button is).
It's fairly easy and cheap. Don't forget to turn the power OFF.
Respected sir greetings to you. I am watching from QATAR.As you teach I do all test for upper and lower thermostat and upper and lower heating elements. Upper and lower temp also set at 140 F. But still I get normal hot water.not good hot.what is the reason sir.thanks
I'm not sure if water heaters in Qatar are the same as in the USA. But generally, if all components are good, the problem could be with the broken DIP TUBE. Google how to replace it.
Great video thank you , I have a fe questions please. Why is 15-18 ohms good? What’s the rating of your heating elements, what formula you used?
I should've mentioned, that my heating element is rated at 4500 Watts and 240 Volts. So if you divide 4500 by 240 = 18.75 Ohms. Another popular element is a 3800 W at 240 V = 15.83 Ohms. Keep in mind that cheap multimeters may not be very accurate, so go with a "good enough" approach.
❤❤
Awesome
I have 120 volts top and bottom
Where's the next video
Here it is ruclips.net/video/w8YA6xycNZE/видео.html
(!!PANIC!!) Please help, my heater stopped heating water.These are my valuations...
Step 1: Failed!
Step 2: Success!
Both up and down show 12.6+ ohms of resistance. According to your info, the heating elements (top, btm) are A1.
Please help as My dog needs a hot shower! Why is step 1 Failed?
I REPLACED BOTH TOP/BOTTOM THERMOSTATS & I STILL DON'T HAVE ANY HOT WATER.
When I ******* realized this I forgot to press the reset button!!! Dear God no why!!!
Hot water in 2 seconds vs. 90 seconds.
My water heater is acting strange. About every two days the reset button trips after it gets too hot. And then it gets cold again. This tells me one of the thermostats is bad or there is a short in one of the elements. What makes it strange is that it takes about 48 hours to overheat and turn off after I reset and turn it back on. My landlords won't do anything until the entire unit fails.
You can try replacing both thermostats if comfortable working with electricity.
It's fairly cheap and easy to do.
A shorted element is a bit more involved.
@@Your-Self
Thank you for replying. I do realize either a thermostat or an element is bad but I think it's unusual that it takes 2 days to overheat.
Am I wrong?
Once the thermostat trips, it becomes "weak" and may start tripping more often.
While I don't know for sure, replacing the thermostat is a good start.