Both elements were switched out of my electric hot water heater and changed out the bottom thermostat that was bad.....Why is it that my hot water heater keeps kicking off?
Correction for anyone first timers new doing this. Before pulling the element cover always check with the voltmeter tester before pulling!!! Small correction but very important to do
I disagree with the first step. You must first find out if the unit is getting full power. I turned the power off first, then removed the cover and insulation off the water heater. I turned the power back on. With my voltmeter set at 400 AC, I found out that the unit was only reading about 70 volts. If that happens, you have to go BACK to the source of power. I removed the electrical panel, found the double pole circuit breaker, and measured voltage across both terminals. 68 volts it read. It was then that I noticed that the breaker was not fully inserted into it's bracket. I pushed it in, than found out that the breaker reading was 240 volts. It's better to first find out if you have full power going into the water heater instead of going through so many unnecessary steps.
Any content creator needs to establish a clear scope in their objectives based on the knowledge, most likely set of needs and the reasonably safe skillset of the target audience. Most viewers and problems will be addressed just fine with diagnosing these user replaceable parts.
Yes, you are correct. Breakers can be particularly troublesome, especially old ones. You need to know if you have the correct power going to the heater before starting the process of troubleshooting or you will be left scratching your head. Also, this video left out an important step. How to test the thermostat.
When I bought a new HWH from Home Depot, I asked about installation because I'm elderly and disabled. They wanted $1187 install fee + $150 permit fee + $587 for the electric HWH which of course I laughed at. It took me longer to carefully muscle that 50 gal HWH down the basement steps than it did to install it.
If the fuse box circuit breaker for the Hot water cylinder trips intermittently it can be a faulty circuit breaker. I found mine tripping as the physical tension on the switch was very weak and hence it kept tripping. Replaced the circuit breaker and it was fine. Both thermostat and heating element were good.
Two o things about electrical safety that he got wrong. 1st, always, always, verify that your tester is good. They are battery driven. the batteries may be dead, or it may just be broken. Test it on a hot outlet and make sure it works. YOUR LIFE MAY DEPEND ON IT. Second, he is grabbing the plastic cover for removal by putting his fingers under it. If the power is still on, good way to get shocked.
You need to keep your hands out of the way so someone that is unfamiliar with the contact points can see what your touching. Remember we are trying to listen and understand but the visual is just if not more important to someone who is not familiar with anything.
I see just fine. Not sure what’s the complaint about. You really need to at least opened it up and see what you’re doing and comparing instead depending your life on a video and I’m hoping they hold your hand and guide you because not all water heaters are the same. Like all videos it should be a general ideas not 100% exact
I laughed sooo hard at Ronald’s response it was so Boldly rude and sounded like when grandparents scold you. It’s 2am. I am so saddened about my new install. The water only stays hot for 7 minutes. Please help. By the way I saw just fine.
You appear to be an expert. Always entertains me to see all the amateur critiques. If they're experts, why are they watching a RUclips for those of us non-experts?
So I'm just curious, I have an electric 50-gallon AO Smith heater, I replaced both thermostats and both elements but even after that, the heater doesn't seem to be turning on, I also made sure that the breakers weren't tripping.
Here is the easy method.CUT OFF BREAKER AND VERIFY AT UNIT WITH TESTER. The bottom element in a Rheem comes on first. The upper thermostat cuts it on. Disconnect wires to both elements. Set meter to Ohms. The range is around 27. If OR is displayed element is bad. If both elements test good it is the top thermostat usually. Another sign of that is when heating water the top element not the bottom element comes on. You might have hat water for a short time but up to 15 minutes.
Hi we have the same hot water heater my dad passed away on Father's day so me and my mom are having to learn to fix things on our own we already changed the upper element but its still not heating like it usually does
Excellent content! It was my upper element... again. It went out about 3-years ago. Only HWHeater problem in 11-years since home was built! It would be helpful if we could see your reader settings and readout examples.
On my multimeter what setting to the spin the dial to measure resistance? I’m new and I have the performance plus rheem with led lights but only the lower element lights up blue and nothing else not even power
When you tested the upper element you said, "if the meter is measuring no resistance, the element is open", that is incorrect. You should have said, when the meter is measuring Infinite Resistance, the element is Open.
Terry Lunsford WRONG. Dead shorts show zero resistance, and infinite CURRENT. Open (bad) elements show infinite resistance and carry zero current. A good element will show zero resistance between the two screws. That's a CLOSED element. However, technically, a good element does not offer zero resistance. It offers very little resistance; not enough to measure on most meters; but there is resistance. Zero resistance would allow infinite current flow and that would destroy the element instantly. So if you're going to correct Chris, get it straight.
Ive replaced the upper heater element and 30 amp breaker need I mention im working without a meter and turned power back on but dont hear the heater kicking back on
He read the multimeter incorrectly when measuring resistance. OL means overload, or infinite resistance, which is what the reading will be with an open circuit. Zero resistance will read 0.0 ohms. He also didn't mention what the resistance of a normal element is, and google says 10-20 ohms.
My water heat stops working, when I test the thermostat top screws for power, it does not have power, however when I test the top wire nuts it has 240v. I go to the water heater circuit breaker and it is not tripped. But to temporarily resolve the issue I reset the circuit breaker and that fixes the issue. I’ve already changed both thermostats and both water heater elements, what I’m I missing? It’s driving me nuts.
A blown/open heating element reads resistance. It is relatively infinite resistance. No resistance is a short. Burnt open/infinite resistance or relatively low resistance/ resistance = voltage/current R=E/I Ballpark resistance = 220Volts/40 says like 6 ohms... not being a professional but having an electronics degree. I would look for something likely way less less that 200 ohms (depending on the resistance or the point of contact of your test leads ta the element connectors) or what many meters read at "infinite" resistance, OL For "Open Loop". An open loop means there is a break in the element/wire in this case,
You mentioned using ohms for the ground in test but didn't mention that when doing the first initial test on the element. Is it set to ohms on that first test you did as well? Thanks for any time taken to respond ! Sincerely, A new-to-trade maintenance technician
I believe they alternate, because of hi amperage. If both of them work at the same time the current will be too much for the wire to withstand that heat and could result in a short and catch fire. If the breaker does not trip then you may have a fire in your house. Newer heater elements are programmed to work alternately.
@Alex A resistance in a circuit is a wire, winding, motor, element in any form. A resistance value of a circuit is the amount of resistance through a load of a circuit to do work. Remove the resistance then you just have an open circuit=no resistance. Connect the two wires together you have a short= blow the circuit =open circuit= no resistance...short to ground is not resistance, though resistance to ground is detected = short, not open circuit and not resistance.
well has been down for a couple months. no water to replace water in water heater. I just heard a fan like sound in water heater. should i cut the electric to my electric water heater? It immediately shut off when i walked up to it as soon as i noticed. I had gotten up and that's why i happened to hear it. It is in a room i don't usually use. Plus, I am hardly ever home. I don't know if this was the first time.
Your multimeter must be different than mine. Mine buzzes when I have continuity, not when I have resistance. So, now I'm confused... Should the elements have continuity or resistance?
Hi, continuity and resistance are the pretty much the same thing, resistance will still be shown without the buzzer function on. The buzzer is just a quick audible que to let you know one point is connected to the other.
@@MrSlick446 I thought continuity is the opposite of resistance? Or has very low resistance that it appeared to be continuous? When you have resistance, typically there is no beeping sound. J Cuvier is right!
KMAC Radio okay be my guest... resistance is opposition to current flow, and it is measured in ohms - so set the multimeter to the “omega” symbol - and remember resistance is equal the voltage divided by the current, enjoy mate
@@Sebeerful buy nikola tesla guide to fixing water heaters. take a class in quantum entanglement...then find out the inner workings on the deathray gun..ttyl..2020
rheem water heater upper element light not on? Replaced both uppper and lower heating elements and replaced the lower thermostat. Now the power led is on and only the lower Rheem lower element light is on. When I disconnect one of the leads on the lower element the upper element light is on but when I reconnect the lead the top element light goes off and only the bottom element light is on. It is not the elements Replaced both elements and it is not the lower thermostat Replaced lower thermostat.
The upper (Top and bottom screws) will show N/C if the water is below the set temp. and N/O if the water is above the set temp. Same with the lower. The lower element (Horizontal Screws)
I like to check the ohms on the element, even if it has continuity. A 4500 watt element should have 13 ohms. If its much higher, I replace the element and save myself a trip to the store later.
NEVER USE A HOTSTICK!!! Also known as a non contact voltage detector. These can be fooled by stray emf, especially if the water heater isn't properly grounded and bonded. Always use a multimeter to verify voltage.
I remodeled a small apartment and moved the 35 short hot water heater from the kitchen to the bathroom where at one point had wash machine hook up there.I replaced it with a tall 40 gallon hot water heater.After it was installed we tested for hot water and there was hot water but some how during the process of boxing in the hot water heater the reset button popped but did not know it until the renter went to take a shower and had no hot water so my Handy man went over the next day and found the reset button was out pushed it back in re installed the case and that was it.But me as the owner thinks there is more.I would like to know what could of caused it to trip so that can be fixed
I just had the lower element area short and blow the upper control unit. Easy fix - the cause was due to condensation saturating the insulation under the cavity cover. I see the covers are connected to what I assume are fans ... Where do I find these active cavity covers?
I replaced the upper thermostat yesterday and my hot water was restored. But after bathing that hot water is now gone and the heater is off. There's power to the unit and across the reset switch. tested the elements and they were good. Did a grounding test on both elements and there's no continuity on either test with means there's high resistance. This means there's a grounding issue somewhere, is that correct?
I have a electric reliance 40 gallon water heater I checked bottom element it is good checked the top one no power replace element still no power but thermostat is checking good what is my problem
I cant figure out why i have 240v at the breaker,when i test each hot at the water heater i have 120v at each wire but wont read 240v when i touch both with my meter?anyone have any idea what it could be?
I heard several incorrect terminology in this video. Why refer to a “voltmeter” when checking continuity/resistance. It’s a multimeter, first of all, and you should be telling the viewers to set it to a resistance position of a certain range. The comments about the small voltage testers are quite on point as these devices have given me faulty live indications several times. Always use the meter as a confirmation. The final question for me is in the end when you are testing to see if the element is grounded why would you be looking for no resistance? Wouldn’t that mean the element was shorted to ground? What is the normal state that the element should be in in reference to ground? I would imagine it is connected to power on one side and that power flows through the element and out the other side so there it cannot be in contact with any ground source so the reading should indicate full resistance, no?
Excellent video...Well explained. One thing at the end - Shouldn't #3 say "Next you'll do a Resistance test on the elements" (not a volt test - there's no power on) ???
A short circuit is an electric circuit offering little or no resistance to the flow of electrons. Short circuits are dangerous with high voltage power sources because the high currents encountered can cause large amounts of heat energy to be released.
Jaya Dheekonda Could be the connections from the top are leaking down the tank. The pop off valve could be leaking down the tank. The heating elements could be leaking down the tank. The tank could have a hole rusted in it.
A "little resistance" could mean 1 or 2 ohms. No resistance means no ohms which means infinity, not zero ohms. To avoid confusion,maybe the narrator should have said, the meter reads "Open" or infinity.
@@don.sittingbull2049 I dunno bout dat. No resistance to electricity would be zero ohms i.e., short circuity. High resistance is like 5k ohms, 1 million ohms is more resistance, and infinity would be an unovercom-able amount of resistance. when the beeper beeped that meant no resistance or very little resistance. OL or Open or Open Line is literally a break in the continuity so actually it's high resistance or an infinite amount of resistance. It's not no resistance although it might appear to be "no reading of ohms", it's actually reading an infinite amount of ohms.
Your comment about the resistance check is incorrect. The resistance of a good element should be between 15 and 20 ohms. In most cases a bad element (One that has corroded, breaking into two parts) will show infinite resistance and the display will not change when you touch the leads to the element. If your meter shows zero on a resistance check, the element is shorted and will have tripped the circuit breaker during operation.
My gosh, I hope he does not work on electrical. When the meter displays "ol", it means infinite resistance (open), not shorted. He claimed the "ol" meant no resistance. And he also stated that if the element is not open, it is good. A dead short is not good. Do not trust this video.
Electrician here ... Warning !!!!! Never trust a contactless voltage tester !!! After disconnecting power always use your meter to determine that the unit is not energized.
That’s ridiculous. Non-contact work perfectly fine if used properly. Test the non-contact on a wire you know is live like an outlet or power adapter then go about your business.
@@jranck88 Most of the time that is perfectly ok.. until it fails in between you testing the NCV tester and using it on a live circuit. Example. The batteries don't make a proper connection inside the tester intermittently . It's happened to me with a Klein tester. Needles to say 277 Volts went well with my coffee that morning.
Like so much of the "free advice" available on RUclips this advice is ALL WRONG! "No resistance" means that electrical continuity through the heating element exists or that a current path through the element exists, therefore the element is probably (but not necessarily in all cases) "good". The same applies to the test for a "grounded element". He has it all backwards. "No resistance" between the element and the metal housing means the line power is inappropriately (and dangerously) connected to the case of the water heater which, if grounded as it should be, would cause the circuit breaker to trip when power is applied. If the case is not grounded as it should be touching the case and ground with power applied could KILL you! Hard to believe this poor fellow is actually working or a service company, Perhaps just an honest mistake on his part. Too bad. This advice is wrong, misleading and potentially dangerous. RUclips fans beware! Free advice is often the worth the price you pay for it. I see lots of "experts" on RUclips who haven't a clue what they are talking about. If you're one of those people who does not understand the electrical principles on which water heaters depend, you may be better off hiring someone who does. Could save you money and/or your LIFE. No I'm NOT in the heating business. Good Luck!
If you measure "no resistance" it means you are reading no ohms, and your meter will read OL, open line. You have misunderstood the meaning of "no resistance." It does not mean zero ohms it means (practically speaking) infinite ohms.
You mention ohms but that doesn't tell me exactly how to use the meter. A bit more detail in that area and maybe explain what resistance is for us non electrical types.
Only problem I have is the FIRST thing to mention is to SHITCAN the water heater if it is old. A tank that rusts through and bursts is not worth fixing even if it will last a few more years.
Sorry but using a continuity test or the beeper is not the correct way to check for ohms on those elements. Turn your meter to ohms and read the resistance. It should be around 12-16 ohms in my experience. If it’s reading a lot higher and use the beeper, the beeper will sound indicating that you have continuity but the element would still be bad.
Who trains this company? Although doing such a video to help others is inspiring, this video in general is misleading in many ways. Seeing other comments I am curious to why they leave this video up without recording a new version or editing this one.
I only see one heating element on the bottom. I tested the voltage at the two screws on the element coming from the thermostat and I am getting 240 volts coming from the thermostat, but I don't hear the element. Normally I hear it making a sound while it is on. It is not making any noise. It seems like if 240 volts is coming out of the thermostat and running to the element, the element should be on. The tank is 30 gallons and the element says 240 v 3500 watt The breaker is a 25 amp 240 volt double pole
Wait a sec the upper element is bad when the meter is measuring no resistance. But the lower element is good when no resistance is tested? How does that make sense?
I've never heard such a charismatic, enthusiastic water heater trouble shooting video. I was on the edge of my seat the whole time. Thank you, Steve.
I had to make sure I wasn't the one who posted this comment!! 🤣🤣🤣
Both elements were switched out of my electric hot water heater and changed out the bottom thermostat that was bad.....Why is it that my hot water heater keeps kicking off?
😂
Correction for anyone first timers new doing this. Before pulling the element cover always check with the voltmeter tester before pulling!!! Small correction but very important to do
My light is not showing red or blue
I disagree with the first step. You must first find out if the unit is getting full power. I turned the power off first, then removed the cover and insulation off the water heater. I turned the power back on. With my voltmeter set at 400 AC, I found out that the unit was only reading about 70 volts. If that happens, you have to go BACK to the source of power. I removed the electrical panel, found the double pole circuit breaker, and measured voltage across both terminals. 68 volts it read. It was then that I noticed that the breaker was not fully inserted into it's bracket. I pushed it in, than found out that the breaker reading was 240 volts. It's better to first find out if you have full power going into the water heater instead of going through so many unnecessary steps.
Great advice. This is why the comments exist on RUclips
Absolutley
Any content creator needs to establish a clear scope in their objectives based on the knowledge, most likely set of needs and the reasonably safe skillset of the target audience.
Most viewers and problems will be addressed just fine with diagnosing these user replaceable parts.
Yes, you are correct. Breakers can be particularly troublesome, especially old ones. You need to know if you have the correct power going to the heater before starting the process of troubleshooting or you will be left scratching your head. Also, this video left out an important step. How to test the thermostat.
@@themisstra7708 sounds like you only have one working element
But what about checking the thermostats?
You took a while with access panel But great advice for open ground Troubleshooting. No info on thermostat troubleshooting. Thanks Steve
When I bought a new HWH from Home Depot, I asked about installation because I'm elderly and disabled. They wanted $1187 install fee + $150 permit fee + $587 for the electric HWH which of course I laughed at. It took me longer to carefully muscle that 50 gal HWH down the basement steps than it did to install it.
You need to show it again with more light. Now a good video!
If the fuse box circuit breaker for the Hot water cylinder trips intermittently it can be a faulty circuit breaker. I found mine tripping as the physical tension on the switch was very weak and hence it kept tripping. Replaced the circuit breaker and it was fine. Both thermostat and heating element were good.
Did u have to reset the WH
Where is the thermostat test mentioned at the end??
Two o things about electrical safety that he got wrong. 1st, always, always, verify that your tester is good. They are battery driven. the batteries may be dead, or it may just be broken. Test it on a hot outlet and make sure it works. YOUR LIFE MAY DEPEND ON IT. Second, he is grabbing the plastic cover for removal by putting his fingers under it. If the power is still on, good way to get shocked.
Dude.. really?
You had to be really really bored to notice those two small things
When removing the plastic cover, I got zapped
You need to keep your hands out of the way so someone that is unfamiliar with the contact points can see what your touching. Remember we are trying to listen and understand but the visual is just if not more important to someone who is not familiar with anything.
yea im a houseowner and need to know this and what and not what to do.......my damn water heater losing heat and the wife is on my ass
Hard to do in a 4" × 8" space.
I see just fine. Not sure what’s the complaint about. You really need to at least opened it up and see what you’re doing and comparing instead depending your life on a video and I’m hoping they hold your hand and guide you because not all water heaters are the same. Like all videos it should be a general ideas not 100% exact
I laughed sooo hard at Ronald’s response it was so Boldly rude and sounded like when grandparents scold you. It’s 2am. I am so saddened about my new install. The water only stays hot for 7 minutes. Please help. By the way I saw just fine.
You appear to be an expert. Always entertains me to see all the amateur critiques. If they're experts, why are they watching a RUclips for those of us non-experts?
온도조절은 리셋스위치 있는 곳이신지요. 히터봉을 갈아넣으니 뜨겁게 물이 나옵니다.
So I'm just curious, I have an electric 50-gallon AO Smith heater, I replaced both thermostats and both elements but even after that, the heater doesn't seem to be turning on, I also made sure that the breakers weren't tripping.
How about the water tank's circuit breaker on the upper thermostat?
So what do you do if everything checks out good and still does not heat?? We replaced the breaker and both thermostats. Heating elements tested good.
What was it? Same issue here.
Here is the easy method.CUT OFF BREAKER AND VERIFY AT UNIT WITH TESTER.
The bottom element in a Rheem comes on first. The upper thermostat cuts it on.
Disconnect wires to both elements. Set meter to Ohms. The range is around 27. If OR is displayed element is bad.
If both elements test good it is the top thermostat usually.
Another sign of that is when heating water the top element not the bottom element comes on. You might have hat water for a short time but up to 15 minutes.
would you not check the breaker in the box first then try the reset button then check all the steps you went through? Baby steps
He didn't check the thermostat, which can also fail, in addition to mis-stating what the "zero-ohms" indication means. Fail.
Hi we have the same hot water heater my dad passed away on Father's day so me and my mom are having to learn to fix things on our own we already changed the upper element but its still not heating like it usually does
Excellent content! It was my upper element... again. It went out about 3-years ago. Only HWHeater problem in 11-years since home was built!
It would be helpful if we could see your reader settings and readout examples.
On my multimeter what setting to the spin the dial to measure resistance? I’m new and I have the performance plus rheem with led lights but only the lower element lights up blue and nothing else not even power
When you tested the upper element you said, "if the meter is measuring no resistance, the element is open", that is incorrect. You should have said, when the meter is measuring Infinite Resistance, the element is Open.
When it measuring zero resistance it is open. If it is measuring a to straight ground (dead short) then you get the infinite resistance.
Terry Lunsford WRONG. Dead shorts show zero resistance, and infinite CURRENT. Open (bad) elements show infinite resistance and carry zero current. A good element will show zero resistance between the two screws. That's a CLOSED element.
However, technically, a good element does not offer zero resistance. It offers very little resistance; not enough to measure on most meters; but there is resistance. Zero resistance would allow infinite current flow and that would destroy the element instantly. So if you're going to correct Chris, get it straight.
Thank you for that Joseph! I was scratching my head on these responses.
Bill O'Quin no problem. It really bugs me when I see replies that attempt to correct someone and then they themselves get it completely wrong.
I think he is mistaking the 0L symbol as 0, instead of OL meaning OverLoad
Ive replaced the upper heater element and 30 amp breaker need I mention im working without a meter and turned power back on but dont hear the heater kicking back on
He read the multimeter incorrectly when measuring resistance. OL means overload, or infinite resistance, which is what the reading will be with an open circuit. Zero resistance will read 0.0 ohms. He also didn't mention what the resistance of a normal element is, and google says 10-20 ohms.
OL means Open Line, not overload
clear, concise, and helpful. thanks so much!
My water heat stops working, when I test the thermostat top screws for power, it does not have power, however when I test the top wire nuts it has 240v. I go to the water heater circuit breaker and it is not tripped. But to temporarily resolve the issue I reset the circuit breaker and that fixes the issue. I’ve already changed both thermostats and both water heater elements, what I’m I missing? It’s driving me nuts.
Replace the overload?
Sounds like one side of your breaker isn't working. Replace that
A blown/open heating element reads resistance. It is relatively infinite resistance. No resistance is a short.
Burnt open/infinite resistance or relatively low resistance/ resistance = voltage/current R=E/I
Ballpark resistance = 220Volts/40 says like 6 ohms... not being a professional but having an electronics degree. I would look for something likely way less less that 200 ohms (depending on the resistance or the point of contact of your test leads ta the element connectors) or what many meters read at "infinite" resistance, OL For "Open Loop". An open loop means there is a break in the element/wire in this case,
You mentioned using ohms for the ground in test but didn't mention that when doing the first initial test on the element. Is it set to ohms on that first test you did as well? Thanks for any time taken to respond !
Sincerely,
A new-to-trade maintenance technician
Little late but yes, ohms is always the measure of electrical resistance.
Thank you, just saved me a service call. I was able to locate the burned up thermostat and replace. Great info.
He didnt show how to test the thermostat???
Can both elements come on at the same time ?
I believe they alternate, because of hi amperage. If both of them work at the same time the current will be too much for the wire to withstand that heat and could result in a short and catch fire. If the breaker does not trip then you may have a fire in your house. Newer heater elements are programmed to work alternately.
THANK YOU FOR YOUR HARD WORK.
This helped me this morning, thank you so much
'no resistance' is a short circuit. 'no continuity' is an open circuit.
! Wrong
@@CatmanJovi what is it then
@@Probablykierra no resistance = open circuit. Continuity to ground is a short circuit.
@IamDonBonJovi you are wrong!
No resistance = short = 0 ohms
OL = no continuity = no reading
@Alex A resistance in a circuit is a wire, winding, motor, element in any form. A resistance value of a circuit is the amount of resistance through a load of a circuit to do work. Remove the resistance then you just have an open circuit=no resistance. Connect the two wires together you have a short= blow the circuit =open circuit= no resistance...short to ground is not resistance, though resistance to ground is detected = short, not open circuit and not resistance.
I put new elemetnts in my heater and I get 120 on each bolt but if I touch 2 bolt on the electrode should I read 240 volts
well has been down for a couple months. no water to replace water in water heater. I just heard a fan like sound in water heater. should i cut the electric to my electric water heater? It immediately shut off when i walked up to it as soon as i noticed. I had gotten up and that's why i happened to hear it. It is in a room i don't usually use. Plus, I am hardly ever home. I don't know if this was the first time.
Can any help me with this problem, to hooked up heater then going to the shower there's a shock. Please for info?
Is there a Reset switch that may have been tripped?
Very good video. No unnecessary discussion & simple!
Is the thermometer already set on a new water heater
Your multimeter must be different than mine. Mine buzzes when I have continuity, not when I have resistance. So, now I'm confused... Should the elements have continuity or resistance?
Hi, continuity and resistance are the pretty much the same thing, resistance will still be shown without the buzzer function on. The buzzer is just a quick audible que to let you know one point is connected to the other.
@@MrSlick446 I thought continuity is the opposite of resistance? Or has very low resistance that it appeared to be continuous? When you have resistance, typically there is no beeping sound. J Cuvier is right!
Did you empty the tank first ?
I have the same POS Rheem with yet another issue in just a couple years… Hopefully I can solve it…
what does resistance mean? how do you set the meter to check for resistance? what reading would be shown if there were no resistance?
Mate if you don’t know that - stay away from doing this
Your response, Andrew, was not all helpful.
KMAC Radio okay be my guest... resistance is opposition to current flow, and it is measured in ohms - so set the multimeter to the “omega” symbol - and remember resistance is equal the voltage divided by the current, enjoy mate
@@Sebeerful buy nikola tesla guide to fixing water heaters.
take a class in quantum entanglement...then find out the inner workings on the deathray gun..ttyl..2020
Bernardo Provenzanno good joke... and I appreciate that people are still stumbling upon this 😆
rheem water heater upper element light not on? Replaced both uppper and lower heating elements and replaced the lower thermostat. Now the power led is on and only the lower Rheem lower element light is on. When I disconnect one of the leads on the lower element the upper element light is on but when I reconnect the lead the top element light goes off and only the bottom element light is on.
It is not the elements Replaced both elements and it is not the lower thermostat Replaced lower thermostat.
Rd3 l
How do you raise the temp on the rheem electric heater?
Wait a sec... what about the thermostats?
The upper (Top and bottom screws) will show N/C if the water is below the set temp. and N/O if the water is above the set temp. Same with the lower. The lower element (Horizontal Screws)
Thanks I learned a lot
Determining the thermostats are functioning properly - that's the thing I need! And you end with that?
I like to check the ohms on the element, even if it has continuity. A 4500 watt element should have 13 ohms. If its much higher, I replace the element and save myself a trip to the store later.
the one i have doesnt measure ohms maybe i should but a better on lol
@@arcnova1982 It's the Omega symbol
What should my top and bottom thermoststas be set at..a guy jad said 120 to save power
120 is standard and recommended by the manufacturer, anything 140 and higher risks scalding and can cause excess wear on the tank.
Did I miss the instructions for testing the thermostat?
My top wires are getting power but not the ones at the bottom of the unit. Help!
NEVER USE A HOTSTICK!!! Also known as a non contact voltage detector. These can be fooled by stray emf, especially if the water heater isn't properly grounded and bonded.
Always use a multimeter to verify voltage.
100%. Absolutely
Working as an electrician I've seen that happen. They can be handy, so as with anything trust, but verify.
Just installed a new 39 gallon electric Rheem but the bottom element isn't working. Top element has continuity but bottom element does not. Ideas?
Leaking water out of bottom panal. How do i fix
Well this as about as clear and efficient as I've seen. Nice tutorial
I remodeled a small apartment and moved the 35 short hot water heater from the kitchen to the bathroom where at one point had wash machine hook up there.I replaced it with a tall 40 gallon hot water heater.After it was installed we tested for hot water and there was hot water but some how during the process of boxing in the hot water heater the reset button popped but did not know it until the renter went to take a shower and had no hot water so my Handy man went over the next day and found the reset button was out pushed it back in re installed the case and that was it.But me as the owner thinks there is more.I would like to know what could of caused it to trip so that can be fixed
He
How can the internal water level be measured? There are two heaters, top and bottom. Do the two heaters heat water automatically?
I just had the lower element area short and blow the upper control unit. Easy fix - the cause was due to condensation saturating the insulation under the cavity cover. I see the covers are connected to what I assume are fans ... Where do I find these active cavity covers?
Thank you very much for this!
I replaced the upper thermostat yesterday and my hot water was restored. But after bathing that hot water is now gone and the heater is off. There's power to the unit and across the reset switch. tested the elements and they were good. Did a grounding test on both elements and there's no continuity on either test with means there's high resistance. This means there's a grounding issue somewhere, is that correct?
I have a electric reliance 40 gallon water heater I checked bottom element it is good checked the top one no power replace element still no power but thermostat is checking good what is my problem
What does EPL mean?
I cant figure out why i have 240v at the breaker,when i test each hot at the water heater i have 120v at each wire but wont read 240v when i touch both with my meter?anyone have any idea what it could be?
I know
This is my exact problem now on this exact Rheem model. What was your issue??
I heard several incorrect terminology in this video. Why refer to a “voltmeter” when checking continuity/resistance. It’s a multimeter, first of all, and you should be telling the viewers to set it to a resistance position of a certain range. The comments about the small voltage testers are quite on point as these devices have given me faulty live indications several times. Always use the meter as a confirmation. The final question for me is in the end when you are testing to see if the element is grounded why would you be looking for no resistance? Wouldn’t that mean the element was shorted to ground? What is the normal state that the element should be in in reference to ground? I would imagine it is connected to power on one side and that power flows through the element and out the other side so there it cannot be in contact with any ground source so the reading should indicate full resistance, no?
Excellent video...Well explained. One thing at the end - Shouldn't #3 say "Next you'll do a Resistance test on the elements" (not a volt test - there's no power on) ???
#4 is the resistance check. #3 shouldnt be there at all.
NO there is NO power applied when doing the resistance check
No thermostat test?
A short circuit is an electric circuit offering little or no resistance to the flow of electrons. Short circuits are dangerous with high voltage power sources because the high currents encountered can cause large amounts of heat energy to be released.
Venkat. My geyser is leaking the water drop by drop from the bottom. From where the water is leaking and what will be the remedy?
Jaya Dheekonda Could be the connections from the top are leaking down the tank. The pop off valve could be leaking down the tank. The heating elements could be leaking down the tank. The tank could have a hole rusted in it.
A "little resistance" could mean 1 or 2 ohms. No resistance means no ohms which means infinity, not zero ohms. To avoid confusion,maybe the narrator should have said, the meter reads "Open" or infinity.
@@don.sittingbull2049 I dunno bout dat. No resistance to electricity would be zero ohms i.e., short circuity. High resistance is like 5k ohms, 1 million ohms is more resistance, and infinity would be an unovercom-able amount of resistance. when the beeper beeped that meant no resistance or very little resistance. OL or Open or Open Line is literally a break in the continuity so actually it's high resistance or an infinite amount of resistance. It's not no resistance although it might appear to be "no reading of ohms", it's actually reading an infinite amount of ohms.
Your comment about the resistance check is incorrect. The resistance of a good element should be between 15 and 20 ohms. In most cases a bad element (One that has corroded, breaking into two parts) will show infinite resistance and the display will not change when you touch the leads to the element. If your meter shows zero on a resistance check, the element is shorted and will have tripped the circuit breaker during operation.
You neglected to tell us how to test the thermostats
I felt like I was watching someone in an operating room
It's a state electric hot water heater model 6-120. No reset button . This just happened in Sept 2022. I have no hot water.
My gosh, I hope he does not work on electrical. When the meter displays "ol", it means infinite resistance (open), not shorted. He claimed the "ol" meant no resistance. And he also stated that if the element is not open, it is good. A dead short is not good. Do not trust this video.
I have a smell of sulfer coming from the hot water , what's causing that?
William Mcgaha check your drain trap near your hwh, if it's dry you could be getting sewer gas through it, I've seen it many times
thank you.
it can also mean your water heater is a portal to hell.
Could be the anode rod on the top its a common cause for it.
Anybody tell me please wiring scheme In 240v te4201 model
how do i reset if had a power outage
hi from iraq my thanks for you for this explaition
Electrician here ... Warning !!!!! Never trust a contactless voltage tester !!! After disconnecting power always use your meter to determine that the unit is not energized.
That’s ridiculous. Non-contact work perfectly fine if used properly. Test the non-contact on a wire you know is live like an outlet or power adapter then go about your business.
@@jranck88 Most of the time that is perfectly ok.. until it fails in between you testing the NCV tester and using it on a live circuit. Example. The batteries don't make a proper connection inside the tester intermittently . It's happened to me with a Klein tester. Needles to say 277 Volts went well with my coffee that morning.
Simple .. change the elements
"OL" is infinite resistance. I suggest you start over...too many flaws.
It's not a hot water heater, it's a water heater. You don't need to heat hot water.
Like so much of the "free advice" available on RUclips this advice is ALL WRONG! "No resistance" means that electrical continuity through the heating element exists or that a current path through the element exists, therefore the element is probably (but not necessarily in all cases) "good". The same applies to the test for a "grounded element". He has it all backwards. "No resistance" between the element and the metal housing means the line power is inappropriately (and dangerously) connected to the case of the water heater which, if grounded as it should be, would cause the circuit breaker to trip when power is applied. If the case is not grounded as it should be touching the case and ground with power applied could KILL you! Hard to believe this poor fellow is actually working or a service company, Perhaps just an honest mistake on his part. Too bad. This advice is wrong, misleading and potentially dangerous. RUclips fans beware! Free advice is often the worth the price you pay for it. I see lots of "experts" on RUclips who haven't a clue what they are talking about. If you're one of those people who does not understand the electrical principles on which water heaters depend, you may be better off hiring someone who does. Could save you money and/or your LIFE. No I'm NOT in the heating business. Good Luck!
If you measure "no resistance" it means you are reading no ohms, and your meter will read OL, open line. You have misunderstood the meaning of "no resistance." It does not mean zero ohms it means (practically speaking) infinite ohms.
You mention ohms but that doesn't tell me exactly how to use the meter. A bit more detail in that area and maybe explain what resistance is for us non electrical types.
I'm replacing the thermostat but the wires dont reach the new thermostat. The difference is soo small but it wont reach
Thank you
Amen
Only problem I have is the FIRST thing to mention is to SHITCAN the water heater if it is old. A tank that rusts through and bursts is not worth fixing even if it will last a few more years.
Shit I knew more BEFORE I watched this video😂
OL is infinite resistance, not no resistance.
I think somethings are backwards regarding resistance.
THANK YOU😀
Sorry but using a continuity test or the beeper is not the correct way to check for ohms on those elements. Turn your meter to ohms and read the resistance. It should be around 12-16 ohms in my experience. If it’s reading a lot higher and use the beeper, the beeper will sound indicating that you have continuity but the element would still be bad.
Who trains this company? Although doing such a video to help others is inspiring, this video in general is misleading in many ways. Seeing other comments I am curious to why they leave this video up without recording a new version or editing this one.
What happens if your electric water heater has no rest button
You completely bypassed testing the thermostat which should be done first to see if it's bad and not sending power to the thermostat
The music to your title screen is extra loud.
Blocking the view with your hands seems counter productive for a diy video
Work for Rheem, that was half ass'd.
I only see one heating element on the bottom.
I tested the voltage at the two screws on the element coming from the thermostat and I am getting 240 volts coming from the thermostat, but I don't hear the element.
Normally I hear it making a sound while it is on.
It is not making any noise.
It seems like if 240 volts is coming out of the thermostat and running to the element, the element should be on.
The tank is 30 gallons and the element says 240 v 3500 watt
The breaker is a 25 amp 240 volt double pole
Wait a sec the upper element is bad when the meter is measuring no resistance. But the lower element is good when no resistance is tested? How does that make sense?
Change all element an thermostat bottom an top still no hot ..what could be wrong.