Want to thank you, I am an electrical contractor. All I do is bring power to the unit and connect it. After that, it's the plumbers job. I just had a job. Where the plumbers charged the client $275 for a 20-minute service call to tell her that there was no power to the unit and to call an electrician. When I got there, I found that the 30 amp breaker was off (not tripped) reset breaker and then proceeded to diagnose the heater per your video and found that the lower element had failed, I then told the client to get her money back from those SCAMERS and call my plumbers. THANK YOU VERY MUCH, AND MY CUSTOMER THANKS YOU. 😄😄🥰
This is a golden video! It doesn't matter what industry you are in, nobody anywhere actually let's us learn things and handle jobs that we can deal with ourselves instead of getting ripped off over and over by people that prey on ignorance, instead of replacing ignorance with knowledge like you just did! Well done, good Sir, well done!!!
This gentleman is a true professional. His explanation of safety, changing out elements and setting thermostats T and B is outstanding. Plus, the proper use of the meter and what to look for, voltage/amps, etc. Straight forward with an honest approach. A++++👍🏻😅
Brother, I’m relatively handy, and I’m having a water heating issue - aside from you not actually removing elements and showing water shooting out, this was TOP NOTCH.
Some body give this man a raise! For the first time in a very long time finally i have not a question or left having to watch 10 more videos tryin to figure out something that never got explained one very professional job hands down .Hey there bud1 Hella good tutorial. Great job I wish everyone would do the same and you just did keep up the great work will refer every one to you videos
I had a wiring issue with my 1 year old water heater. This video helped to debug the issue by eliminating all the other potential issues. The original installer pinched a hot wire in the junction box against the ground screw. Ultimately, over time with repeated heating cycles the insulation oozed away and the wire shorted to ground and tripped the breaker and cut the wire at the point of contact. It took me two days to figure it out. The top thermostat actually was damaged in the event too. Both phases were stuck active at the same time. Anyway, thanks for the video. The methodical approach really helped me out.
Thankyou so much Mr. Smedley plumbing for getting my hot water back on Christmas day 2023.Today you definitely got your stars in your crown for giving such valuable advice.
Thank you for the in depth process to do this. You just saved me from setting a bomb. I wired my thermostat and replaced the elements but there was a gap between the thermostat and the tank and I've been troubleshooting why my tank has been constantly pressure releasing, and had no idea that's how the thermostat works. Could've blown up my house so thank you for explaining everything!
Excellent video, and very well presented. The t-stats and elements are truly the most common heater issue that can be handled by Diy'ers. Just want to mention a seldom talked about and trickier issue is a cracked or leaking "dip" tube. That's the tube that brings incoming water into the bottom of the heater tank to be heated. When damaged or worn out, it can leak cold water into the upper tank and dilute the hot water that's being called for throughout the house. When the stats and elements check out OK, that can possibly be an issue causing cool water.
Dip tube issues used to be common but I haven't seen a dip tube issue in many years. They used to break off completely but manufacturing has figured that out now.
This is an incredible video tutorial. It is clear, concise, and very step by step. You must be very careful around electricity as you explain. This video will definitely help me diagnose my issue. Keep the awesome content alive.
Thank you so much. I woke up to cold water and was able to find out that my reset button popped out. Your video was extremely helpful in diagnosing the problem.
I’m a maintenance guy for an apartment complex and all my experience has been gas water heaters, just started at a new property with all electric and I can’t thank you enough for this video.
About 15 years ago in the farmhouse I lived in as a teenager, the bottom element on the 50 gallon water heater grounded out, and the reset button did not trip. We were gone all day hauling a load of cattle to the slaughterhouse, when we got home the pressure relief valve was running boiling water, the basement felt like a sauna. First we went to home depot and got new thermoatats. This time it popped the reset button. By the time we figured out the real problem it was 11pm, so everyone got to enjoy a cold shower before bed, just in time for another day of hard work 😂
Wish I had this video back in the day when I managed a True Value. So many customers with these issues. No need to replace the whole heater when it's just an element or t-stat. Thank you for this video.
Yes! He does explain very good and make me understand in everything he is talking about!! I deside to watch his video because i Just finish it taking a shower and the water it was not too hot like shoud be hot! And make sence every word like he explain already. Tomorrow i Will go down to take a look the water heater. Thank you my friend for your good explain about the water heater.
Thanks for the video. I know for a fact I need to replace at least one of the heating elements but it's still hanging in there so been biding my time because of the hassle trying to drain the tank in a tiny space. The water was suddenly super hot then went cold so this morning I pulled the access panel for the water and house heat and pulled the upper cover to find the heat breaker had popped. Pushed it in and the upper element is definitely heating and it hasn't run away and popped again. I have the rebuild kit and tools, just trying to work on the ambition to finally tackle it.
That's not a breaker. That's a thermal overload switch. That means you have a bad element and that switch sensed the tank being too hot to be safe and so it killed the power to the unit.
@@SmedleyPlumbing Yeah, I know but I'm used to calling it that seeing how I didn't know it was a thermal switch till I saw this. We live in a manufactured home so the tiny space for the electric furnace and water heater is between two wall in the closet of the master bedroom and the wall for the back door in the kitchen hallway. You have to clear out the closet, then pull the Sheetrock cover door thing screwed to the access to the area. Not a lot of room in there so I was glad that for now all I had to do was reset the switch. It hasn't popped or overheated since and I'll tackle it when I'm in the mood or it completely dies. Pretty sure the lower element is toast or close to it and the heater is 12 years old and a AO Smith 50 gallon that was new when we got the house in 2012.
And I just found out I don't have a shut off valve on the water heater and apparently it's not required in mobile/manufactured homes. You'd think when they replaced it during the cheap rehab before we bought it they would have added one🤬 I'm not going under the house so I guess the street shutoff in the front yard will do it. Luckily I bought the shutoff fork thing figuring this would be an issue someday and it's way quicker in an emergency.
@@SmedleyPlumbing yeah, that's what I'm going to do. I was going to try today but found that and had a look around to see if there was any alternative to going out to the yard and shutting it off. Not going to crawl under the house to do it. Did some research and shut off not required for the heater on these things 🤔
You just bailed me out BIG TIME! the red button clicked when I pushed it back in and there's scorching hot water now, if it does it again I'll call out a tech and get the whole thing diagnosed :)
I’m so grateful for this video today! I’m so grateful for people like you and internet to this extent. I appreciate this video, more then you’ll ever know! Thank you! ❤
@@SmedleyPlumbing I can’t thank you enough. As a single lady, I went a whole week with my water heater only working for a few minutes. Couldn’t get anyone out here. And they wanted an arm and a leg and would be on their time. Your video was the first video that showed up. Now I have hot water without buying or paying for service. Just needed to turn sensor up. I seriously can’t thank you enough. I just wish I would have found it sooner. I subscribed to you for sure! Thank you so much, again. ❤️
This is well done - particularly adding that removing the insulation cover over the thermostats will lead to constant thermal tripping if left uncovered. This happened to me, and I though that leaving the upper thermostat uncovered would allow excess heat to leak away, but didn't realize that (i) being in a small basement room that was ~45F at the time, and (ii) the upper thermostat being susceptible to the low air temperature of the room was (n fact) causing the thermal switch to trip every day. Restoring the insulation remediated that problem. Also, to reiterate a point made in the video, the upper thermostat acts as an "EXCLUSIVE OR" switch for just one leg of 120V -While one leg of 120V power is always attached to both upper and lower heater elements - when the upper thermostat is off, the other 120V "leg" power is directed to the lower element & lower thermostat (breaking contact with the top element), otherwise when upper thermostat is on, the other 120V "leg" power is diverted to the upper element (and that same 120V leg of circuit broken from the lower element/lower thermostat).
Quick Story: My aging Dad hardly ever uses hot water. We installed an electric water heater for him 2.5 years ago (A.O Smith). Now when he goes to take his weekly bath and shave he quickly runs out of hot water. The electricity to the elements measured 233 volts which should have around 19 amps. The elements passed the continuity test. Come to find out the lower element was measuring 16.9 amps. We removed and replaced the lower element and he's back in business. The old element was scaled all to heck. It's funny how that amperage difference was reflected in the heaters elements poor performance. Great Video (Next heater will be tankless because we think his very low usage is causing premature element failure)
It's probably worth mentioning the importance of installing the stats tight to the tank wall. & maybe demonstrating the stat & element R&R technique. You're a good teacher.
Great Video. Going to do AMP test today. Yesterday. Had power to both elements with heater set to 120 but had no hot water being produced. I noticed that my elderly parents also have a breaker that is double pole 20amp breaker. I'm thinking the breaker and 12/2 wire is not enough for a water heater but that is what is there on their 1995 Double Wide. So..left there last night, hoping that it is making hot water or I find an AMP issue pointing to an element. Power is going through the elements but didn't have my multimeter with me so could not tell if getting 220v. Tks
You'll always get 120 volts from each element screw to ground. Check for 220-240 volts from screw to screw to see if that element is being energized. If so, then check your amperage. If you only get 120v from screw to screw, then you'll get virtually no amps because that element is not being energized.
@@joecraigslist9467 is there insulation between the control cover panel and the thermostat? If not, then that is most likely why. If there is then I would first look to replace the upper and lower thermostats. If the problem still persists then it is possible you have an element where the casing has opened up to the water. In other words it's partially failed but not enough to reflect that on an amp draw or an ohms test. So start with the thermostats and then if it persists replace the elements.
Great video and instructions i was debating changing both of the elements since the bottom one failed. Only 3 year old water heater in a new construction home. In the first 3 month of us moving in the anode rod was creating the rotton egg smell. Replaced it with a different metal ( dont remember what i changed to) . Could this change or my well water be the reason for the element to fail? Thank you for making this video! Cheers from Wisconsin!
Great video! Thank you. One question though,my Rheem electric 50 gallon is giving me an error code that says the upper element is the issue however I replaced it and I’m still getting the same code, does this mean it’s a thermostat?
Possibly. I would still run the tests mentioned in the video. Depending how how the signalling is set up to deliver that code, it's possible a bad stat could result in that code.
Hi Mitch, any suggestion? I replaced both elements, the top relay (not the bottom yet) but we are still running out of hot water. Temp is set to 120ish. The only thing I can think of is the pressure tank hasn't been replaced yet and has a broken bladder. Maybe it is dumping too much cold water in to the hot water tank?
@@SmedleyPlumbing Barely able to have a 10 minute shower. It starts out okay and after ai installed the upper control it was good for a while. Then it went back to fading fast. Maybe the reset is going like you suggested?
This is the first water heater video I've seen that mentions a partial heating element failure. My 80 gal. electric water heater just started to severely over heat. I bought new thermostats for it and it made no difference so I bought another set of thermostats thinking the first ones I got from Home Depot might have been the wrong ones but the second set I got from an appliance store didn't make any difference. The elements check okay with the ohm meter and I couldn't figure out what else could be the problem until watching this video. Guess I'll have to go get a clamp on amp meter to see if I have a partial element failure. The water heater is about 30 yrs old so the elements are probably worn out.
I have water leaking from upper heating element area. (only one there is.) Do you think all will be well once I replace the element, or does the whole heater need replacing?
if the thermostats are left without the foam in room temperature.. how does it know it overheats? I am confused by this. I did not put my foam back and it tripped after a couple days... But how would it even know to trip if it thinks it is at room temperature still?
Great question! The thermostats need the foam on the back to insulate them from the room temp air. Without it, the room temp air will cool the stat and trick it into thinking the water is cold. This makes the stat come on and heat the water even through the water might already be warm.
He mentioned the reset button at the beginning and if it keeps popping. He never explained how or what is the issue with that reset button. That is what I wanted to know.
The reset button pops due to excessive temperature. Excessive temperature happens when an element partially fails and continuously heats the water. So the purpose of the video is to identify where the failed element is and when you resolve the failed element you resolve the reason for the reset button popping.
Hot water is working for a couple weeks then blows the fuse in my electric panel? Would a faulty element do that? Already replaced both upper and lower thermostats
Amperage is not a word. The word to use is Electrical Current. At least in Canada. Thanks. I’m an electrical contractor and was told, just today by the plumber installing a hot water tank, is that both upper and lower elements are isolated and only one comes on at a time. WHAT, we have always ran two 10 AWG wires and 30 A breaker. Looking for answers. If that is true I can 2255 W divide by 208 Volts and get a lower current and only need to run Number 12s or at least Number 14. With the voltage drop, number 12 is better.
My daughter’s hot water keeping failing. The water heater is only a year old and under warranty. But nobody in the warranty department can come out and check the system. But they are willing to reimburse a local plumber $250.00. The problem is sometimes she has hot water. Other times she doesn’t. And at times when the hot water starts working, air comes out of the shower and faucet. A friend of hers said it’s an electric issue. He replaced the circuit breaker a few months ago and everything was working fine…for 3 months. Now it’s doing again 3-4 times a week. She keeps telling me to hit the reset button, but it’s doesn’t feel it tripped. Calling a plumber tomorrow.
Can you tell me how to check for amperage on my red multi-meter? You did a great job explaining this. Although the upper element heats the unit 75% and the bottom does a lot less work but the sediment is what causes it to go out first.
Great video although I have a couple of questions. When checking both element wires with the multimeter, what is a tolerable range difference? I have 235v input voltage, so my current through those wires were 18.95A and 18.3A. Is that enough of a difference to cause an overheat problem? Also, why is my input voltage 235v and not 240v, and would that make a difference? BTW, both elements past the ohm test, so I am puzzled!
So what level of Multimeter do I need to be able to test a water heater Amperage? Mine has a 10 Amp probe jack and a 300 mA probe jack. I am thinking this is not adequate to test something with 18.75 Amps, right? This is an old Fluke 77 multimeter that my late husband had and I use it when I need to but I use a video each time pretty much. Thanks.
@@raynebutler1564 the amp clamp is built into the meter. You shouldn't be having to plug it into anything. It sounds like you might need to get a new meter.
hmm my one doesn't have a reset button i have opened it up to check if it had a button but i couldn't see anything my one is ae 2001 model any suggestions on how i can fix my hot water i have put my hand on both pipes and they are both cold
Thank you for an excellent video. Very detailed and easy to follow. As an amateur, I would be shutting off the breaker way more often than you did just to be safe. One suggestion I would like to offer you has to do with the numerous times you said "ah" or "um" during the course of the video. You may not realize how often if occurred and it detracted from the overall quality of your presentation. Otherwise excellent job!
I just installed a brand new AOS 50 gal electric and it is only providing warm water no matter what I do to the temperature adjustment dial. Tried resetting the red button but it didn't budge.
@@SmedleyPlumbing well I ohm'd out the elements and the top one is bad. I'm going to get a new element tomorrow. It's a new water heater but I was thinking maybe the element was conducting electricity in the tank. It's 110v from the relief valve to ground. I've never had this happen before and I've installed probably 20 water heaters in my time. It's a lowboy in a very aggravating very tight location. I was really hoping not to have to drain it and drag it all the way back out and take it apart.
We have a very old Richmond water heater (model # 8V30-2) manufactured in 1998 which has recently started to overheat. I have heard that an element that has shorted out can cause it to receive constant power resulting in overheating. How is this possible? It's set at it's lowest setting but it's heating water to 165 degrees and it sometimes trips the reset button. I understand Richmond is made by Rheem and they have no references to that model number so parts will be hard to get.
I ran into an unusual problem with my water heater not working properly and intermittently not working at all. I discovered that someone had it wired to a timer and sometimes there was no power coming out of the timer, even when the timer was in the ON mode.
Want to thank you, I am an electrical contractor. All I do is bring power to the unit and connect it. After that, it's the plumbers job. I just had a job. Where the plumbers charged the client
$275 for a 20-minute service call to tell her that there was no power to the unit and to call an electrician. When I got there, I found that the 30 amp breaker was off (not tripped) reset breaker and then proceeded to diagnose the heater per your video and found that the lower element had failed, I then told the client to get her money back from those SCAMERS and call my plumbers. THANK YOU VERY MUCH, AND MY CUSTOMER THANKS YOU. 😄😄🥰
Glad we could help!
This plumber agrees 100% with you. Hopefully she got her money back.
@woohunter1 Thank you👍😊
This is a golden video! It doesn't matter what industry you are in, nobody anywhere actually let's us learn things and handle jobs that we can deal with ourselves instead of getting ripped off over and over by people that prey on ignorance, instead of replacing ignorance with knowledge like you just did! Well done, good Sir, well done!!!
Thanks! That's why we made the video!
This gentleman is a true professional. His explanation of
safety, changing out elements and setting thermostats T and B is outstanding.
Plus, the proper use of the meter and what to look for, voltage/amps, etc. Straight forward with an honest approach.
A++++👍🏻😅
Thanks!
Brother, I’m relatively handy, and I’m having a water heating issue - aside from you not actually removing elements and showing water shooting out, this was TOP NOTCH.
We're putting together a new video that will do a more detailed job of showing all that!
Some body give this man a raise! For the first time in a very long time finally i have not a question or left having to watch 10 more videos tryin to figure out something that never got explained one very professional job hands down .Hey there bud1 Hella good tutorial. Great job I wish everyone would do the same and you just did keep up the great work will refer every one to you videos
I appreciate that!
@@SmedleyPlumbingmy water is luke warm- what do you think
I had a wiring issue with my 1 year old water heater. This video helped to debug the issue by eliminating all the other potential issues. The original installer pinched a hot wire in the junction box against the ground screw. Ultimately, over time with repeated heating cycles the insulation oozed away and the wire shorted to ground and tripped the breaker and cut the wire at the point of contact. It took me two days to figure it out. The top thermostat actually was damaged in the event too. Both phases were stuck active at the same time. Anyway, thanks for the video. The methodical approach really helped me out.
Well done!
Thankyou so much Mr. Smedley plumbing for getting my hot water back on Christmas day 2023.Today you definitely got your stars in your crown for giving such valuable advice.
Fantastic!
This dude should be the face on all Hot water heaters. Great job explaining!!
Wow, thanks!
@@SmedleyPlumbingim 21 years old new home owner don’t know JACK… water heater says Installed 2020
Shower etc has Luke warm water! What ya think!?
@@Davidblaine18could be the dip tube, or the heating elements. Or it may be even poorly adjusted for heat
@@SmedleyPlumbing thanks for nothing
@@jeremiahsfoodsthanks
This guy knows ! I watched 4-5 before this one THE BEST !
Thanks!
Excellent video! Thanks for taking the time to explain this process so thoroughly.
You're very welcome!
Thank you for the in depth process to do this. You just saved me from setting a bomb.
I wired my thermostat and replaced the elements but there was a gap between the thermostat and the tank and I've been troubleshooting why my tank has been constantly pressure releasing, and had no idea that's how the thermostat works. Could've blown up my house so thank you for explaining everything!
You should also check out this video if you're tank is always releasing water from the relief valve.
ruclips.net/video/S2HVSogYELM/видео.html
Excellent video, and very well presented. The t-stats and elements are truly the most common heater issue that can be handled by Diy'ers. Just want to mention a seldom talked about and trickier issue is a cracked or leaking "dip" tube. That's the tube that brings incoming water into the bottom of the heater tank to be heated. When damaged or worn out, it can leak cold water into the upper tank and dilute the hot water that's being called for throughout the house. When the stats and elements check out OK, that can possibly be an issue causing cool water.
Dip tube issues used to be common but I haven't seen a dip tube issue in many years. They used to break off completely but manufacturing has figured that out now.
This is an incredible video tutorial. It is clear, concise, and very step by step. You must be very careful around electricity as you explain. This video will definitely help me diagnose my issue. Keep the awesome content alive.
Thanks!
Thank you for taking your free time to explain how to do this
You are very welcome
Thank you so much. I woke up to cold water and was able to find out that my reset button popped out. Your video was extremely helpful in diagnosing the problem.
Glad it helped!
@@SmedleyPlumbing No doubt 🤙
I’m a maintenance guy for an apartment complex and all my experience has been gas water heaters, just started at a new property with all electric and I can’t thank you enough for this video.
Checking with amps is the all time win!
Most informative video ive seen about diagnosing electric water heaters!
Wow, thanks!
BIG THANKS! Very informative. You keep it simple and safe. Thanks again.
Thanks!
About 15 years ago in the farmhouse I lived in as a teenager, the bottom element on the 50 gallon water heater grounded out, and the reset button did not trip. We were gone all day hauling a load of cattle to the slaughterhouse, when we got home the pressure relief valve was running boiling water, the basement felt like a sauna. First we went to home depot and got new thermoatats. This time it popped the reset button. By the time we figured out the real problem it was 11pm, so everyone got to enjoy a cold shower before bed, just in time for another day of hard work 😂
Some days will be like that!
😊😊😊😊😊😊😊q
Great video in layman's terms... Thanks to you I have diagnosed my bad top heating element, and have ordered a new one... I LOVE YOUBOOB!!!
Great to hear!
Crystal clear- Great Instructions
Thanks for sharing - Liked & Shared
Glad it was helpful!
Thank you. That was helpful. I think I'm going for the rebuild .
You got this!
This is really helpful information you have in this video. Thank you.
Thanks!
Wish I had this video back in the day when I managed a True Value. So many customers with these issues. No need to replace the whole heater when it's just an element or t-stat. Thank you for this video.
Glad it helped!
Very helpful. Thanks a lot.
Glad it was helpful!
Yes! He does explain very good and make me understand in everything he is talking about!!
I deside to watch his video because i Just finish it taking a shower and the water it was not too hot like shoud be hot!
And make sence every word like he explain already. Tomorrow i Will go down to take a look the water heater.
Thank you my friend for your good explain about the water heater.
You're welcome!
Might have to show my plumber this video so he can do more than press the reset button and go home
Yep!
But than he won't be able to get those monthly $75 service call charges.
Sounds like you need a new plumber 😂
😂😂😂😂😂😂😂
😂
Thanks for the video. I know for a fact I need to replace at least one of the heating elements but it's still hanging in there so been biding my time because of the hassle trying to drain the tank in a tiny space.
The water was suddenly super hot then went cold so this morning I pulled the access panel for the water and house heat and pulled the upper cover to find the heat breaker had popped. Pushed it in and the upper element is definitely heating and it hasn't run away and popped again.
I have the rebuild kit and tools, just trying to work on the ambition to finally tackle it.
That's not a breaker. That's a thermal overload switch. That means you have a bad element and that switch sensed the tank being too hot to be safe and so it killed the power to the unit.
@@SmedleyPlumbing Yeah, I know but I'm used to calling it that seeing how I didn't know it was a thermal switch till I saw this. We live in a manufactured home so the tiny space for the electric furnace and water heater is between two wall in the closet of the master bedroom and the wall for the back door in the kitchen hallway. You have to clear out the closet, then pull the Sheetrock cover door thing screwed to the access to the area. Not a lot of room in there so I was glad that for now all I had to do was reset the switch. It hasn't popped or overheated since and I'll tackle it when I'm in the mood or it completely dies.
Pretty sure the lower element is toast or close to it and the heater is 12 years old and a AO Smith 50 gallon that was new when we got the house in 2012.
And I just found out I don't have a shut off valve on the water heater and apparently it's not required in mobile/manufactured homes. You'd think when they replaced it during the cheap rehab before we bought it they would have added one🤬
I'm not going under the house so I guess the street shutoff in the front yard will do it. Luckily I bought the shutoff fork thing figuring this would be an issue someday and it's way quicker in an emergency.
@@69Dartman you can just shut water off the the house if you need.
@@SmedleyPlumbing yeah, that's what I'm going to do. I was going to try today but found that and had a look around to see if there was any alternative to going out to the yard and shutting it off. Not going to crawl under the house to do it. Did some research and shut off not required for the heater on these things 🤔
Thank you very much you just saved me from spending unnecessary money I just fixed my water heater by watching your video.
You are awesome and you are welcome!
You just bailed me out BIG TIME! the red button clicked when I pushed it back in and there's scorching hot water now, if it does it again I'll call out a tech and get the whole thing diagnosed :)
Love it!
Excellent video. Learned a lot about water heater problems and causes.
Thanks
Thanks you!
You are really good to explain thank you I learned a lot with your video
Glad it was helpful!
Great job explaining all possible causes for not getting hot water.
Thanks!
I’m so grateful for this video today! I’m so grateful for people like you and internet to this extent. I appreciate this video, more then you’ll ever know! Thank you! ❤
You are so welcome!
@@SmedleyPlumbing I can’t thank you enough. As a single lady, I went a whole week with my water heater only working for a few minutes. Couldn’t get anyone out here. And they wanted an arm and a leg and would be on their time. Your video was the first video that showed up. Now I have hot water without buying or paying for service. Just needed to turn sensor up. I seriously can’t thank you enough. I just wish I would have found it sooner. I subscribed to you for sure! Thank you so much, again. ❤️
@@fallonyunker you're very welcome
This is the best video on this topic that I've seen on RUclips. Keep up the good work and thanks
Thanks!
This is well done - particularly adding that removing the insulation cover over the thermostats will lead to constant thermal tripping if left uncovered. This happened to me, and I though that leaving the upper thermostat uncovered would allow excess heat to leak away, but didn't realize that (i) being in a small basement room that was ~45F at the time, and (ii) the upper thermostat being susceptible to the low air temperature of the room was (n fact) causing the thermal switch to trip every day. Restoring the insulation remediated that problem.
Also, to reiterate a point made in the video, the upper thermostat acts as an "EXCLUSIVE OR" switch for just one leg of 120V -While one leg of 120V power is always attached to both upper and lower heater elements - when the upper thermostat is off, the other 120V "leg" power is directed to the lower element & lower thermostat (breaking contact with the top element), otherwise when upper thermostat is on, the other 120V "leg" power is diverted to the upper element (and that same 120V leg of circuit broken from the lower element/lower thermostat).
Correct!
Yes too
Excellent video, thank you so much.
Glad it was helpful!
Excellent knowledge for a beginner.
Glad it was helpful!
Thanks. You’re right, the parts are inexpensive, mine as well replace all of them while in there. Thx again
Yep!
Best video out there! Thanks for taking the time to make these videos. A+
Glad you like them!
Quick Story:
My aging Dad hardly ever uses hot water. We installed an electric water heater for him 2.5 years ago (A.O Smith). Now when he goes to take his weekly bath and shave he quickly runs out of hot water. The electricity to the elements measured 233 volts which should have around 19 amps. The elements passed the continuity test. Come to find out the lower element was measuring 16.9 amps. We removed and replaced the lower element and he's back in business. The old element was scaled all to heck. It's funny how that amperage difference was reflected in the heaters elements poor performance.
Great Video
(Next heater will be tankless because we think his very low usage is causing premature element failure)
That's why I love the amperage test. It finds partially failed elements.
You could add a water heater timer so it only heats a certain part of the day. You are wasting a lot of heating energy of it just sitting there
It's probably worth mentioning the importance of installing the stats tight to the tank wall. & maybe demonstrating the stat & element R&R technique. You're a good teacher.
Thanks!
Great video.
Professional.
Thank you.
Glad it was helpful!
Thanks for the thorough detail. Great video .
Glad it was helpful!
Outstanding presentation and explanation. Thanks!
Glad it was helpful!
You, Sir, are a great teacher. Thank you.
You are very welcome
Excellent thread!!!!❤
Thanks!
Great video!!! Best one I’ve found by far!! Thanks for the great info!
Glad it was helpful!
Excelente 👍🏼
Thanks!
Great Video. Going to do AMP test today. Yesterday. Had power to both elements with heater set to 120 but had no hot water being produced. I noticed that my elderly parents also have a breaker that is double pole 20amp breaker. I'm thinking the breaker and 12/2 wire is not enough for a water heater but that is what is there on their 1995 Double Wide. So..left there last night, hoping that it is making hot water or I find an AMP issue pointing to an element. Power is going through the elements but didn't have my multimeter with me so could not tell if getting 220v. Tks
You'll always get 120 volts from each element screw to ground. Check for 220-240 volts from screw to screw to see if that element is being energized. If so, then check your amperage. If you only get 120v from screw to screw, then you'll get virtually no amps because that element is not being energized.
Amazing video!
Thanks!
Thank you, you saved me a lot of time.
Glad we could help!
Best explanation I've seen. Thanks !
Thanks!
Thanks man I now understand how this works
Keep this saved. If you don't use it, you lose it.
Good job,, your a good teacher 💯😊
Thank you! 😃
At the 7:38 mark, you stated Volt X amps = watts. Should have said divided... great video
Volts x amps = watts
Watts / Volts = Amps
Great job. Well explained.
Thanks!
My water heater doesn’t have a reset button what should I do? Your help is appreciated
It's your water heater electric or gas powered?
@@SmedleyPlumbing hello sir, it’s electric one
@@Lokz99 all electric water heater have a reset button unless they are an on demand (tankless) electric water heater.
Thanks for the video. If the heater element amp draw is correct and the reset button keeps popping, is it the thermostat?
What amperage are you getting?
@SmedleyPlumbing 18.5 on both wires to the element. Red button pops about once a month.
@@joecraigslist9467 what about the other element?
@@SmedleyPlumbing Same on the bottom element. 18.5 on both wires.
@@joecraigslist9467 is there insulation between the control cover panel and the thermostat? If not, then that is most likely why. If there is then I would first look to replace the upper and lower thermostats. If the problem still persists then it is possible you have an element where the casing has opened up to the water. In other words it's partially failed but not enough to reflect that on an amp draw or an ohms test. So start with the thermostats and then if it persists replace the elements.
Thanks!
You bet!
Great information. I just had a new hot water tank installed and the reset button keeps tripping.
Now i know what questions to ask.
Thank you.
Most likely a failed element.
Great video and instructions i was debating changing both of the elements since the bottom one failed. Only 3 year old water heater in a new construction home. In the first 3 month of us moving in the anode rod was creating the rotton egg smell. Replaced it with a different metal ( dont remember what i changed to) . Could this change or my well water be the reason for the element to fail?
Thank you for making this video! Cheers from Wisconsin!
Well water is probably why the element failed. Hard water can make them fail faster.
Well done! Thanks. Is it possible to ck Amps with a basic multimeter that doesn't have the amp clamp? Thx
Unfortunately not.
@@SmedleyPlumbing thank you
Great video! Thank you. One question though,my Rheem electric 50 gallon is giving me an error code that says the upper element is the issue however I replaced it and I’m still getting the same code, does this mean it’s a thermostat?
Possibly. I would still run the tests mentioned in the video. Depending how how the signalling is set up to deliver that code, it's possible a bad stat could result in that code.
Great video
Thanks for the visit
Very well explained thanks
Thanks!
Have you reviewed water softeners?
We have not. But we might!
Great tutorial!
Thank you!
Got er done ✔️.. thanks
Excellent!
Great video!!
Thanks!
Hi Mitch, any suggestion? I replaced both elements, the top relay (not the bottom yet) but we are still running out of hot water. Temp is set to 120ish. The only thing I can think of is the pressure tank hasn't been replaced yet and has a broken bladder. Maybe it is dumping too much cold water in to the hot water tank?
How fast are you running out of hot water?
@@SmedleyPlumbing Barely able to have a 10 minute shower. It starts out okay and after ai installed the upper control it was good for a while. Then it went back to fading fast. Maybe the reset is going like you suggested?
I am looking at buying a clamp meter and going through your steps, thanks, great video!
@@terrybarrett5522 yeah definitely check the amps before going further.
@@SmedleyPlumbing thank you , will do!
This is the first water heater video I've seen that mentions a partial heating element failure. My 80 gal. electric water heater just started to severely over heat. I bought new thermostats for it and it made no difference so I bought another set of thermostats thinking the first ones I got from Home Depot might have been the wrong ones but the second set I got from an appliance store didn't make any difference.
The elements check okay with the ohm meter and I couldn't figure out what else could be the problem until watching this video. Guess I'll have to go get a clamp on amp meter to see if I have a partial element failure. The water heater is about 30 yrs old so the elements are probably worn out.
Yep! I just tested one out yesterday using the amp method. It makes so much more sense than just testing ohms of continuity.
How do you order the parts and where do we get them from for the heating elements and thermostat kit?
Amazon or your local plumbing parts supplier
I have water leaking from upper heating element area. (only one there is.) Do you think all will be well once I replace the element, or does the whole heater need replacing?
Depends on where the leak is originating from.
Excellent video 👍👍
Thank you 👍 Please feel free to subscribe for more!
Mr Smedley what does it mean when my water heater has tripped the breaker box. This is the 2nd time this has happened?
Bad breaker, wiring, water heater controls, and/or bad elements. I would test in that order too.
@@SmedleyPlumbing yes sir. Thank you for your help 🙏
if the thermostats are left without the foam in room temperature.. how does it know it overheats? I am confused by this. I did not put my foam back and it tripped after a couple days... But how would it even know to trip if it thinks it is at room temperature still?
Great question! The thermostats need the foam on the back to insulate them from the room temp air. Without it, the room temp air will cool the stat and trick it into thinking the water is cold. This makes the stat come on and heat the water even through the water might already be warm.
Thank you....
You're welcome!
Great video! 👍
Thank you! 👍
@SmedleyPlumbing What causes the left top wire coming into the top thermostat to become red hot and burn?
A short to ground. I would change both thermostats and elements. If the problem persists, the wiring from the junction box to the upper stat is bad.
Brilliant, just brilliant!! 👏 👏👏
Thanks!
He mentioned the reset button at the beginning and if it keeps popping. He never explained how or what is the issue with that reset button. That is what I wanted to know.
The reset button pops due to excessive temperature. Excessive temperature happens when an element partially fails and continuously heats the water. So the purpose of the video is to identify where the failed element is and when you resolve the failed element you resolve the reason for the reset button popping.
So de-enrgize when replacing parts....and when testing keep power on....is that right?
Yes
Hot water is working for a couple weeks then blows the fuse in my electric panel? Would a faulty element do that? Already replaced both upper and lower thermostats
Blows a fuse or trips a breaker?
Amperage is not a word. The word to use is Electrical Current. At least in Canada. Thanks. I’m an electrical contractor and was told, just today by the plumber installing a hot water tank, is that both upper and lower elements are isolated and only one comes on at a time. WHAT, we have always ran two 10 AWG wires and 30 A breaker. Looking for answers. If that is true I can 2255 W divide by 208 Volts and get a lower current and only need to run Number 12s or at least Number 14. With the voltage drop, number 12 is better.
Yes only one element fires at a time. And amperage is absolutely a word.
Which direction do you turn the screw to turn the temperature up
Follow the instructions on the dial.
Thanks. I have a multimeter but no amp clamp.
Might need to buy one with an Amp clamp
My daughter’s hot water keeping failing. The water heater is only a year old and under warranty. But nobody in the warranty department can come out and check the system. But they are willing to reimburse a local plumber $250.00. The problem is sometimes she has hot water. Other times she doesn’t. And at times when the hot water starts working, air comes out of the shower and faucet.
A friend of hers said it’s an electric issue. He replaced the circuit breaker a few months ago and everything was working fine…for 3 months. Now it’s doing again 3-4 times a week. She keeps telling me to hit the reset button, but it’s doesn’t feel it tripped. Calling a plumber tomorrow.
Sounds like it needs a thorough diagnosis checking each element and each thermostat properly. Hopefully your plumber gets it resolved.
Can you tell me how to check for amperage on my red multi-meter? You did a great job explaining this. Although the upper element heats the unit 75% and the bottom does a lot less work but the sediment is what causes it to go out first.
Does your red Multi-meter have an amp clamp? Make sure to tag me when you reply so I'll get the notification.
@@SmedleyPlumbing Not that I know of. It is your basic, probably older meter. Has the Red and Black regular plug ins rod/readers
@@bluev3nom might need to get one with an amp clamp.
Great video although I have a couple of questions. When checking both element wires with the multimeter, what is a tolerable range difference? I have 235v input voltage, so my current through those wires were 18.95A and 18.3A. Is that enough of a difference to cause an overheat problem? Also, why is my input voltage 235v and not 240v, and would that make a difference? BTW, both elements past the ohm test, so I am puzzled!
It's possible. Check the other element for similarities. I typically get concerned when I see a difference over half an amp.
So what level of Multimeter do I need to be able to test a water heater Amperage? Mine has a 10 Amp probe jack and a 300 mA probe jack. I am thinking this is not adequate to test something with 18.75 Amps, right? This is an old Fluke 77 multimeter that my late husband had and I use it when I need to but I use a video each time pretty much. Thanks.
We mention the multi meter we use in the video. But you aren't looking for probe jacks. You're looking for one with an amp clamp.
@@SmedleyPlumbing I have those, but how do I know which jack to plug each one into etc? Thanks!
@@raynebutler1564 the amp clamp is built into the meter. You shouldn't be having to plug it into anything. It sounds like you might need to get a new meter.
@@SmedleyPlumbing yes it does indeed. Thanks.
hmm my one doesn't have a reset button i have opened it up to check if it had a button but i couldn't see anything my one is ae 2001 model any suggestions on how i can fix my hot water i have put my hand on both pipes and they are both cold
Only the upper thermostat will have a reset button.
Do you know what’s wrong with the breaker keep turning off? My friend said it might be the elements.
Breaker flip because of shorts to ground. That will take an electrician to resolve.
Thank you for an excellent video. Very detailed and easy to follow. As an amateur, I would be shutting off the breaker way more often than you did just to be safe. One suggestion I would like to offer you has to do with the numerous times you said "ah" or "um" during the course of the video. You may not realize how often if occurred and it detracted from the overall quality of your presentation. Otherwise excellent job!
Glad it helped and thanks for the feedback!
Both elements & top and bottom thermostats have been replaced. Still poping rest occasionally... can the temp sensor that pops the reset malfunction?
It's possible you have a bad upper thermostat. Does the housing still have the insulation?
any reason this new home only has the bottom element wired in? the upper has no thermostat nor wiring connected.
That's really odd. I would ask the builder for a new water heater.
I just installed a brand new AOS 50 gal electric and it is only providing warm water no matter what I do to the temperature adjustment dial. Tried resetting the red button but it didn't budge.
Sounds like you might have a cross connection somewhere in the system.
Can a bad element cause the water heater to shock you when touch it? Like if the element is shorted out or something?
That sounds like a wire that is shorted to ground somewhere within the unit. I would definitely contact a plumber to have them check it out.
@@SmedleyPlumbing well I ohm'd out the elements and the top one is bad. I'm going to get a new element tomorrow. It's a new water heater but I was thinking maybe the element was conducting electricity in the tank. It's 110v from the relief valve to ground. I've never had this happen before and I've installed probably 20 water heaters in my time. It's a lowboy in a very aggravating very tight location. I was really hoping not to have to drain it and drag it all the way back out and take it apart.
@@Last_Chance. Sounds like a water heater that was purchased at a box store
@@SmedleyPlumbing I bought it at Lowe's
@@Last_Chance. I'm not surprised. Box store electric water heaters are notorious for having bad elements right out of the box
We have a very old Richmond water heater (model # 8V30-2) manufactured in 1998 which has recently started to overheat. I have heard that an element that has shorted out can cause it to receive constant power resulting in overheating. How is this possible? It's set at it's lowest setting but it's heating water to 165 degrees and it sometimes trips the reset button. I understand Richmond is made by Rheem and they have no references to that model number so parts will be hard to get.
Most electric water heaters use fairly universal thermostats and elements. You can buy any universal element or thermostat and it should work
@@SmedleyPlumbing
As long as it's the same wattage, correct?
@@Doamino41 correct
I ran into an unusual problem with my water heater not working properly and intermittently not working at all. I discovered that someone had it wired to a timer and sometimes there was no power coming out of the timer, even when the timer was in the ON mode.
Yeah some people try to use timers to make them use less electricity during times of low demand.