How To - Chain Pixel Props Like a Champ
HTML-код
- Опубликовано: 1 авг 2024
- In this video, I show how to successfully chain groups of 50 and 100 pixels (e.g. 50 pixel props and 100 pixel props). I demonstrate the value of “Self Power Injection” and also demonstrate how to layer both “Self Power Injection” with “Tee Power Injection” to chain up to six sets of 100 pixel props (600 pixels), with 10’ extensions to each prop.
--
I thank you in advance and appreciate any donations to help fund the channel and purchase items to review via PayPal. www.paypal.me/NiFamilyLights
Support the channel by using my Amazon Affiliate Link. amzn.to/45YAnW7
Use my referral link to buy a Tesla and get up to $500 off and 3 months of Full Self-Driving Capability. ts.la/steve93925
--
Timeline
00:00 Intro
01:22 Why Chain Props?
03:43 Example 50 and 100 Pixel Props
05:09 The Test Setup
06:25 Power for 200-300 Pixels
10:05 Maximize My Controller Plan
11:47 Chaining 50 Pixel Props and the Value of “Self Power Injection”
14:51 Example Boscoyo 24” Snowflake wired for “Self Power Injection”
20:17 Chaining 50 Pixel Props with 10’ Extensions
26:45 Chaining 100 Pixel Props and the Value of “Self Power Injection”
28:35 Chaining 100 Pixel Props with 10’ Extensions
31:12 Chaining 100 Pixel Props with 10’ Extensions w/o Self Power Injection
32:50 Chaining 6 - 100 Pixel Props with One Controller Output
33:57 Tee Power Injection Wiring
36:40 Why chain 6 - 100 Pixel Props off one output?
38:30 Let’s Do It!
41:59 Data Line Length of 264’
42:36 Summary
Music Credit:
Better by Anno Domini Beats
Referenced Videos and Links
How To - Setup CG1500 Pixel Controller Builds (for Differential Receivers)
• How To - Setup CG1500 ...
How To - Setup a GE Rosa Wreath (or other HD Prop)
Wiring and Self Power Injection is shown at 17:26
• How To - Setup a GE Ro...
Testing the Specs of 12V WS2811 Pixels (Part II)
How to Wire the V/A Meter Testers is shown at 06:47
• Testing the Specs of 1...
Link to Volt/Ammeter Device (red/blue color)
www.aliexpress.com/item/11552...
Alternative Volt/Ammeter Device (supports high current measurements)
amzn.to/3HDiNM7
Chaining 12V Pixels Like a Champ - Power Calculations Spreadsheet
drive.google.com/file/d/1M006...
Spiker Lights Power Calculator
spikerlights.com/calcpower.aspx
WAGO Lever Nuts
amzn.to/3QwdbaB
Monoprice Nimbus Series 18AWG 4-Conductor CMP-Rated Speaker Wire, 100ft (pure 100% oxygen free copper)
www.monoprice.com/product?p_i... 
Хобби
By far the most useful videos on pixels. Keep them coming.
thank you!!!! Been looking for a video like this forever! glad i found yours
Super useful video. Thank you so much!
Very helpful video man !
Nice job Steve! 👍
Splendid!! Thanks.
Great Stuff Steve
Love your content. I’m beginner w/ a young family so videos like this are amazing! Wish i could triple like!
Thanks for your comment Jordan!
Thank you!
Hi Steve your videos are very detailed thanks
Glad you find the videos useful!
Excellent video 👍🏼. I liked the self powering wago option plus the 2nd part with the power T injection. I was wondering if you can do a T- power injection and use the wago option too ?
Thanks, appreciate your comment. Yeah, the combination of self power injection (power balancing) and T power injection can be quite useful. You can certainly use the wago lever nuts to make custom T-power injection wired connections.
Note, I'm using the wago lever nuts for power balancing because it's easier to do that for testing, as I don't have to make permanent waterproof solder connections. For your outdoor pixel work, wago lever nuts are not weather proof, so you should make the wiring connections in a manner that can sustain exposure to the elements.
Hi. Very helpful videos. I was just wondering how do you configure this additional props on x-lights. Does it matter what controller you are running off? On my Hinkspix pro, I have every string attached to dedicated output port. This method of yours will reduce the smart receiver boards/wiring if I can configure them in x-lights or something.
Ronald, glad the videos are helping you. I know xLights can handle uploading prop configurations to certain controllers with a click of a button. Here's a video that may help you with configuring xLights with your Hinkspix controller. videos.xlights.org/hinkspix-controller-support-in-xlights_8a5865ce0.html
Great, useful video. Put some shoes on LOL.
Haha
Awesome video!! One question, the Wago Lever Nuts aren't listed as being waterproof / resistant. Are you doing anything to make yours waterproof or have you had success using them outdoors without issue?
Thanks Russell! I actually don't use any of the Wago lever nuts out in the open, exposed to the elements. I am using them here with the pixels for testing purposes.
In my show, the Wago Lever Nuts are used only in the controller builds that reside within weather proof enclosures.
For outdoor exposed wire connections, I solder the wires and use heat shrink. There are other outdoor options that I have used and show in the "How To - Pixel Show Setup and Repair Gear Video" at minute 9:15.
ruclips.net/video/rhw9SUYW7cI/видео.html
I love your videos. They are very helpful. How would you power balance on a mega tree especially since the first and last pixel aren't close together? Also do you accept DM's?
Thanks Stephen.
For megatree power balancing, you can do that every 2 strings if you are running pixels up one strand and then back down the next strand. I show how the megatree at the church is power balanced in this Vine Lights 2020 walkthrough video. m.ruclips.net/video/CALw0Dq17EE/видео.html
Great information. I love your videos.
Can you please tell me where you purchased your Power injection Tees?
Thanks
Thanks Parker House. I purchase those Power Injection Tees from DIYLedExpress. They aren’t the only ones who carry them. Other vendors also carry them. Just be sure to order ones with the same connector type as your pixels for compatibility. Also, verify internal wiring to ensure they are what you want. Some Tees bridge the V+ across both sides of the pixel chain. The Tees shown here do not bridge the V+ so the power injection input supplies V+ only to the next set of pixels.
You provided very detail information and also educate for people who just started like me and appreciated for your time and effort putting these series of videos about lighting with pixels. My setup is very simple with 16 channels controller and Megatree and would like to learn more about power injection and CG1500 Pixel Controller Builds (for Differential Receivers). Can you explain what is the purpose of the Diffential Receivers? This year, I am planning to add pixels matrix and not sure how to go about it. Do you sell Differential Receivers? Thank you so much
Thanks for the comment! There certainly are many aspects of a pixel light show to learn about. Just keep reading and viewing videos until things start to click.
A Differential Receiver board is a pixel controller electronics component that goes along with a main pixel controller board, such as the Falcon F16, the Falcon F48, or a Kulp board. Those boards are primary controllers that can extend control of pixels to remove control boxes, using differential receiver boards. Check out the sites for both of those brands. Their user guides provide more detail on how they are used and configured.
Ultimately, making long extension runs to your pixels results in power and data degradation. So, you'll want to place your controller boxes close to or central to a grouping of pixels. That's where the differential receiver boards come to play, since most shows are large enough that the main controller board can't be placed close to everything in your show.
@@NiFamilyLights Thanks Steve, got it and appreciated your input.
Great videos! Super helpful! I can not find a link or mention for where you get your pigtails, connectors, injection tee's and 10' extensions. They look very heavy duty and I would like to use them. What do they call them (what type/size) ? Any Info would be appreciated. Also seems that DIYexpress (where I see you get a lot of items) is down. What are alternate outlets for these items? Thanks!
Thanks for the comment. Regarding your question about wiring pieces, at the moment it appears that DIYLedExpress's website is currently unavailable. I'm not sure why, but it may return in the future. Another good place to source these items is Wally's Lights (www.wallyslights.com). On this website, go to the "Wires & Cables" dropdown to take a look at their supply of pigtails, extensions, connectors, and Tees.
Hey Steve, great explanation. I was wondering about the power injection on the 100 pix props. You show it being wired into the lead at the prop before an extension. Would it be better to put the injection tee at the prop it’s meant for rather than at the beginning of a long extension?
And where did you get those long power injection tees?! Those look like they’d be easier to work with.
Thanks again!
Hi Derek. Thanks for the comment and great questions.
I am Tee power injecting at the end of a prop to make the most of a good data signal and to best boost the power before making long runs. If the signal and power are too weak at the beginning of the next prop, the Tee power injection may not be of value at that point if the extension between props has suffered too much.
Also, it may be more likely that subsequent props are farther away from the controller, allowing you to power inject with shorter lines than power injecting farther away…saving cables.
For the length of the Tees, the Tees themselves are only 12”-15” or so long. I attached pre-made 10’ extensions to get the length from the power distro board to the Tees. The extensions are the same 3-core cables used for everything else. When using the extensions with the power injection Tees, only 2 of the 3 wires are being used. But it makes it easier to buy a bunch of the same type of pre-made cables and then use them whoever you need them.
Hey Steve,
Awesome channel!
Will you make a video on how you make your power injection wire?
Danny, thanks for the question. Yes, I'm planning to do a Part II of this video to show how I wire the self power injection wires.
@@NiFamilyLights Awesome..... can't wait!
@@dannygasca6898 Just posted the Part II video. Enjoy!
Hi Steve, Great vid, very informative. I'm assuming this works for larger props as well, self-power balance each string of 100 pixels and inject where necessary. That about right?
Thanks for the comment and question. Yes, you could balance power with larger props and add power injection as well.
This video addresses that very question. m.ruclips.net/video/Ci5-0c07HXs/видео.html
What are those white pigtails and green ones that go to the box? Did they come with the lights or controller?
Hi Benjamin, the white pigtails were cut off from the bundles of pixels that I ordered. The pixels came in bundles of 50, and each set of 50 had pigtails pre-wired. When I combined pixels with props, I cut the pigtails and soldered the wires together. That left me with extra pixel pigtails to work with. The green ones that go to the box were purchased as 18" pigtails from pixel vendors.
When purchasing a controller, they use Euro connector plugs, so you can connect any pigtail you'd like. I would recommend you standardize on a pigtail choice. These days, xConnect is a common connection type that is sold by most all pixel vendors for pigtails (to your controller), pre-wired with pixels, and pre-made extension cables.
Very helpful, would like a bit more detail on the exact wiring for the "self power injection" connections! Is just that you are connecting the V+ and ground on the input/output of each prop?
You got it. Just connect the V+ and GND on the input/output of each prop.
@@NiFamilyLights can you please show in more details for newbies
Godfrey George, what specifically do you want to see in more detail?
@@NiFamilyLights The Digram details of the clamp for self power injection
Also, can you manage each prop separately in say xlihhts with the data going to though all of them
Yes, each prop can be handled separately in xLights. The Layout tab is where you assign channels for the props. Then in the setup tab, check to be sure that the appropriate channels are linked together for each physical controller output. With xLights and the controller configuration set, you'll be able to sequence each prop individually in xLights for your sequences.
I have four props in chained together (8' vertical - window - window - 8' vertical) self injecting the windows would be easy, but not the verticals since the two outlets are 8' away from each other - is there benefit to self inject the windows and not the verticals or do I need to do all the props in the chain?
Mike, there would be a significant benefit to wiring the windows for self injection. You may be able to get away with no doing the verticals, but if you’re willing to add two wires along the length of each vertical, it’ll make a difference with balancing power and ground for all the props.
So I wouldn’t run into any issues, I ran 2 extra wires from the beginning to the end of each house outlines segment. It’s enabled me to link many segments together to outline my entire house. The benefit is significant enough that my entire house outline uses just 4 controller outputs.
Question I’m looking to add these to my eves but I would like to also frame in my windows with lights. Can I tee off data and connect that way. Or so I need to run a separate set of lines to power first window and jump each window?
I'm not sure I completely understand what you are asking. If you can power balance your eaves, that should certainly help out, especially if you have long runs of pixels.
For the windows, what do you mean by Tee off data? The data line should be thought of as a continuous linear connection from one prop to the next. If you Tee off data, you'll be sending duplicate pixel data to multiple props. If that's what you want to do, sure, but if you want full control of every pixel, it's better not to do that. It would be better to chain the pixel data from one window to the next.
Thanks for the video mate, wondering if you have another video showing how to then configure these within xlights? ie the 6 props on 1 output?
Thanks for the comment Connor. Unfortunately, I don’t have a video yet showing how to configure this in xLights. I presume you want to set it up to utilize the Upload to Controller option. There are videos at xLights.org to help with that.
Another option is to set it up manually in your controller configuration. It’s relatively straight forward if your controller lets you add virtual strings. That way you can add prop after prop for each controller output. Best of luck.
@@NiFamilyLights thanks mate much appreciated :)
On your self power injection cables, do you have a drawing or something visual where I can reference? Sorry I am a bit confused.
Check out Part II of this video. ruclips.net/video/0yyKf72-Gpo/видео.html
Where did you buy those voltage testers and power injector t's
In the description of this video, there are links to two types of volt/ammeter testers. The power injection Tees came from the vendor where I purchased pixels. Most pixel vendors sell power injection Tees. Just be sure to get what you want. Some Tees have V+ connected from the incoming pixels to the outgoing pixels while other Tees (like what I show in this video, separate the incoming V+ from the new power and outgoing pixels).
m.ruclips.net/video/GpiZQLdzYbI/видео.html
Hey Steve, Love your videos, Question where can I find the white pigtails with the red, white and blue wire? I searched thru all your videos, I cant seem to find a link for them. Thanks Chuck
Thanks Chuck, I appreciate the comment. As for the pigtails, those are what came with my pixels. I purchased bundles of 50 (with pigtails). So, when I make a prop that requires longer runs of pixels, I cut and soldering strings together and save the pigtails.
So, I ended up with a bunch of pigtails without having to buy them which makes it convenient to make custom pixel wiring, etc.
I don’t think there are any vendors selling short pigtails. If you need more, you’ll have to purchase 12”, 18” or 24” pigtails…most commonly they are 18”.
@@NiFamilyLights , great, thanks for getting back to me
Hello Dear, thanks a lot for your video. It confirms or not what to do for the newbie I am. For chaining probes, what about Data loose... I have a 15 feet cord before my first probe (100 led in 12volts) and whichever I inject power before the following one ... it is not lighting ? Thanks for your comment.
Hi there, 15’ to the first prop should be no issue at all for the data line. If your pixels aren’t lighting up at all, try connecting it directly from the controller without the 15’ extension to see if the extension itself is your issue.
If the pixels aren’t lighting up, be sure you have your pixels wired correctly. Data for pixels only go one way. So, if you wired the pixel backwards, they won’t light up. Looking at the pixel itself, you should see a little arrow indicating the input direction of the wiring.
Can you provide a link to the power injection t you used?
Charles, the vendor where I got my Power Injection Tees currently do not have them on their website. Here are several alternative vendors that have them available for purchase. I have no direct affiliation with any of the vendors below. I would recommend getting the Tees from the same vendor that you use to source your pixels.
www.rgb-man.com/online-store/Xconnect-Power-Tees-p164579141
www.wallyslights.com/collections/power-injection-ts
www.wiredwatts.com/it3ckmp3-power-injection-tee-male-center-xconnect-connector
Sir, where did you get those white connectors?
Those white pigtails were cut off from my pixel bundles. Each set of 50 came with them, and I removed them when putting pixels together so I would have extra sets to use for other things.
Did I understand correctly that you ran the F16v3 with PS1 and the distro board with PS2? If done that way, did you have to run a wire from PS1 gnd to PS2 gnd ?
That's correct. In the control box, the F16v3 powering the pixels is from PS1 and the distro board being used is from PS2. All 4 power supplies in the build have the DC Grounds (V-) all bonded together.
Details of the build (including all the wiring) are in the "Falcon F16V3 Ammo Box Build Breakdown" video.
So you splice the power from the injection point to the power out on the prop. That way the power goes though the prop and straight to the end of the end of the prop.
You got it! It not only balances power and ground for that prop, it drastically improves the V+/GND to the next prop. The point you mentioned is key to chaining many props together without resulting in severe voltage loss.
The self power injection with the wago connections you use is just for the testing or is that in your actual props? You showed another method on the star where you just spliced at beginning and end, didn’t see any wago connectors there.
Steve, those self power injection setups were for testing purposes only. I didn’t want to cut into my spare pixel bundles.
At 14:50, I show an example of a 24” Boscoyo snowflake that I wired for self power injection. It’s much simpler in execution when you setup your props. For that example, it’s just two wires each about 3” long, spliced, soldered, and sealed.
The test setup rigs look more complicated than necessary so I could do the demonstration without messing with the actual pixel wires. I used the WAGO lever nuts for the test setups for convenience so I could quickly set things up without having to do any soldering.
@@NiFamilyLights Got it. And the same type of self injection on the Rosa Wreath. I just ordered my pixels (6500) so when I start setting them up I'm going to use your method to maximize the controllers. Thanks for all the helpful information. I think it'll make setup a lot easier and efficient.
Are the pigtails connectors coming off of your controller also 18ga?
They are supposed to be. Since the ends are bare wire, I can attest that they are copper and thicker than the standard pixel wiring thickness. Although I didn’t measure it, I’d say that it is 18AWG.
Where do you typically buy your pixels from?
I have purchased from 3 different vendors, DIYLedExpress, ScottLED, and Ray Wu. However, with the standardization of the xConnect connections, you could source from any vendor and be happy with their products. This includes RGBMan, WiredWatts, DIYLedExpress, WallysLights, Wizard of Wire, and HolidayLighting.Shop. I’m sure there are more, but those are the names that to mind that I would have no problem ordering from.
Can you explain a bit more about the power injection lead off your controller? the ones that you put the red tape on? is that something on the controller that you have to do?
Hi Shawn, thanks for your question. For my setup, I standardized on using 3 core cables for everything. That way I could purchase a bunch of cables and pigtails and use them for any application, whether it be for power injection or normal pixel runs.
When I purchased everything, I also purchased 3 core power injection Ts. The wiring pins for the power injection Ts for the new power use the pins differently. As a result, I had to setup the pigtails for power injection to match the T wiring. So in the end, anywhere I have wiring setup for power injection into power injection Ts, I marked those with the red tape. I can still use standard extension cables, it just reminds me to only run cabling from a red marked pigtail to the power injection input for the Ts.
How long does it take for you to program the lights for a song? What program do you use?
A typical 3 minute song from scratch takes 40-60 hours to sequence. To save time, I do purchase sequences and use shared sequences and map them to my layout which brings it down to anywhere from 2-6 hours per song. Still lengthy but much faster than from scratch.
The software I use is open source. It’s called xLights. You can get it at xLights.org.
How aren't you blowing the 5a fuse in the falcon since you go over 5a? Are you running a larger fuse? If so is the falcon rated for that? I thought I read 5a was the max.
Sometimes you do, sometimes you don’t. The fuses are 5A, but there is some amount of tolerance there.
"Hello friend, your videos are excellent. One question, where do you buy the pixels or what brand are they?"
Thanks for the comment! I purchased these pixels from DIYLedExpress. However, there are many vendors that sell high quality pixels.
can you make a video how you connected wiring to self power injection i am new to this hobby i would like to learn more please
Enache, review the section starting at 14:50. I show a 24” Boscoyo snowflake that’s wired for self power injection. It’s just two pieces of wire, each 3” long spliced into the V+ and GND wires.
Wiring your props for self power injection is much simpler than making the test setups I used. All you’ll need is some wire, soldering iron, and liquid electrical tape to add wires to your props.
Awesome video! Just one question I'm hoping you can help me with. I thought the ws2811 12v pixels drew 0.06Amps (0.72watts) at FULL brightness on white. However, it seems like you are seeing those lower draws at only 30% brightness in your calculators?
Thanks for the comment. You are correct, pixels over the years have become more efficient and resistor pixels are even more efficient.
Check out my videos testing the specs of regulated and resistor pixels. I run bundles from 100 to 0 to show how much power they use, including when you have them “off”. Even when “off”, they still use power.
@@NiFamilyLights So what do you recommend sizing wire for if I run ws2811 leds at 30%? Would it be appropriate to plan for 30% of 0.72w... (~22w)?
@Doinkeroni, it's industry standard to use 18awg wiring between WS2811 LEDs. If you're running 18awg wiring, you should be fine for most pixel runs.
For the lights that already have the pigtails for power injection, it sounds like you can just tie them together at the end of one and the front of the other and be good?
Dan, thanks for the question. I’m not particularly familiar with lights that have pigtails for power injection. Are the power injection pigtails extra ones at the beginning and end of each strand, as in, there’s two pigtails at the beginning and two at the end of each strand? If so, if you connect the power injection pigtail from the beginning to the end of each strand, that’ll help balance power for that strand and improve power for the next strand.
@@NiFamilyLights Yes, the have a 12v and a ground tied in to the first pixel and one on the last pixel.
Yes, that'll work! Good luck!
Is the a way I could get a copy of that excel file you used in this video?
@J.D., yes you may. A link to it is the description of the video.
Can you provide a wiring diagram of the self power injection setup?
Yes, I cover the wiring setup in detail in Part two of this How-To. ruclips.net/video/0yyKf72-Gpo/видео.html
"self power injection" ...these terms use confuse me more than just using electrical series/parallel terms, but understand this is not for EEs but beginners. It makes total sense, that if you want to reduce consecutive drop from the daisy chain, take each prop string and put half of itself parallel with its other half (by connecting power to both sides). Since you've cut resistances (roughly half, all things being even) the voltage drop is reduced for the next prop down the line.
will the self power injection work if there is a 10' extension from one end of it to the other? e.g., house outline 10' PVC 50-85 node straight sections connected at the bottom, end at the top, run a cable back down to self inject at the ground level before sending another extension 10-15' to the next one. I'm trying to figure out the best way to wire/power each of my house outline vertical sections. (240 total 12v pixels per section I would do this to)
Hi KW, what you described is exactly how my roof outlines are wired. My outlines are in 8’ sections, and I have two extra high quality copper wires zip tied to the PVC going from the first pixel to the last pixel. With the extra wires, I’m able to make very long runs with no concern regarding power or data corruption. Thanks for the question.
@@NiFamilyLights the "extra high quality" wires you speak of....Are they the super awesome green monsters from home depot ;)
KW, the high quality wires can be the green extension cables...those are kind of thick with all the jacketing. I personally like using the Monoprice 4 core Nimbus 18AWG pure copper speaker wire. For the roof outlines, you only need 2 of the 4 cores. I pulled off the outer sheathing of the speaker wires and used 2 wires to power balance along the length of each section. Doing so, you get twice the length of the speaker wire for power balancing. The wire and sheathing is thin and very flexible to work with.
Hi Ni , thanks for all wonderful videos. 1...how many total pixels 12 v at 30 brightness can be safely run on 350w power supply ? 2......how do i configure a prop having 600 nodes with falcon f48 and smart receive configuration ...3...can i use 2 different power supply powered from 2 different wall outlet to power inject a prop being powered from power supply powered from different wall outlet thanks ...
Hi J Patel, glad that the videos are helpful for you. I'll do my best to answer all your questions.
1) To determine the maximum number of pixels to safely run on a 12V 350W power supply, the first thing you have to consider is how much power each of your pixels use. 12V regulated and 12V resistor based pixels have different power consumption figures. From my testing, 12V regulated based ones use 0.55W on full white while 12V resistor based ones use 0.325W on full white. I personally also recommend derating the power supplies by 20% as to not overtax and prematurely cause a power supply from failing. Fingers crossed, after 6 years of running 2 shows, I've had 0 power supply failures using 24 generic 350W 12V power supplies.
Here's some simple math to ball-park max figures. Note, there will inherently be more margin in reality, as the voltage drop across your pixel runs will result in less current draw (aka less power consumed).
0.55W Regulated
350W * 0.8 = 280W
280W / (0.55W/pixel * 0.3 brightness) = 1,697 regulated pixels per power supply
0.325W Resistor
350 * 0.8 = 280W
280W / (0.325W/pixel * 0.3 brightness) = 2,872 resistor pixels per power supply
2) Configuring a 600 pixel prop requires planning the prop pixel runs to the receiver board. After that, you've got to model that in your xLights layout then upload the configuration to the Falcon controller. Or, you can manually configure the Falcon controller then reflect the channels in xLights. This topic is too lengthy to cover in a text response. It's best to check out the numerous videos at xLights that cover this topic, or jump into the xlights zoom room to get realtime support.
3) Yes, you can power injection across two different power supplies (even when they are on different AC circuits). All the pixels care about are getting enough voltage to work, a good data signal, and a solid and consistent ground (or V-). The data signal uses the ground line to determine the data signal. So, all you have to do is bridge (connect) the DC Ground (V-) between the two power supplies used for power injection. That way, the data signal does not encounter a significant difference in the DC Ground (V-). If it does (by not bridging the DC Ground) that could cause the data signal to be mis-interpreted by the pixels, resulting in flicking, flashing, locking up of pixels.
Best of luck!
Thanks for in depth reply...! you the best..God Bless you & everyone ....!
Hello Steve, could i self-power inject icicle strings from one to end to the other by running a cable along the icicle light cable and injecting at each end?
Absolutely, yes you can. I do exactly that for all my house outline segments and the swag sections hanging from my front gutters. I’ve got some really long house outline runs and the additional wires make a major difference improving power and data quality.
@@NiFamilyLights Thank you, sir! And just to verify, I’m only connecting the data and ground between the self-injections?
No, for self-injection (aka power balancing), you're connecting V+ between the two power balancing points and Ground (V-) between the two power balancing points.
Do not connect the data line between two places, that'll be one way to completely confuse the pixels. Always remember that the data line has to be a continuous single line.
Hi wonder if possible you could shed some info on this , I'm using 18awg from power supply to controller and 18awg to pixels , was not sure if i should go lower awg from power supply to controller , i gather 18awg is fine for pixels but was not sure if i needed to go say 12awg or 14awg or even 16awg from power supply to controller , any help welcome .
@BLACK DAVE, your gut feel is correct. 18AWG is fine for the 5A for the pixels. However, the current from the power supply to each component could reach 20A or more. I use 12AWG wire for the power supply to electronic connections. You could also use 10AWG if you have it, but connecting to the electronics may be difficult. Some folks use ferrels or spade connectors which make it easier to get good connections from the terminals to the wire.
Definitely upsize the power supply wiring. The 18AWG will not be happy (heat, melting/maybe fire) if you’re pulling a lot of current from the power supplies.
@@NiFamilyLights thanks for getting back to me on this , just ordered some 12awg thanks .
I have LOR controllers. They say the limit is 170 pixels. Can I run more than 170 per output on my LOR controller? If so, how?
Thanks for the comment, however, I don’t have any experience with LOR controllers. So, I can’t really comment on those controller output capabilities. Have you posted this question in the Facebook LOR groups?
Hey Steve, may be a dumb question, but I’ll ask it anyway. Lol. When power injecting at multiple points, I only have have to cut the V+ by pulling out that pin from the tee at the first point correct? The other points need the V+ and ground for the rest of the pixels. Probably just answered my own question.
@Brian Not a dumb question...If you are power injecting at multiple points, I presume you actually mean power balancing from one 5A fused power output. If that's the case, you do NOT need to cut V+ at each point you are connecting.
When you get to the point where you are power injecting with a new power output from the power supply, at that point, you should separate the V+ to isolate one grouping of pixel power from the next grouping of pixels.
@@NiFamilyLights Just so I’m understanding you, I’ll be using a 2nd PSU. If I use more then one PI cable going to several pixel strings on a 500-600 pixel run, I only need to cut the V+ from the first injection point. Because the power to the rest of the pixels will be coming from the 2nd supply. All the pixel will be chained together and different PI points. Or do I cut the V+ on all injection points coming from the 2nd PSU?
The answer unfortunately depends. If you're powering x number of pixels and x number of pixels will draw more than 5 amps of power, per your calculations, you need to separate the V+ segments where you are power injecting. If you're below the 5A limit (common fuse size and pixel wire rating) for a segment of pixels that you are power injecting, then you don't need to cut V+ for that segment. You're protecting both the pixel wiring and the power injection wiring by ensuring any segment being powered doesn't exceed 5A. Hopefully this answer helps.
you said using a solid copper core wire 18 gauge is what you used... but bigger could be used. If you were to use bigger wire.... would you go to a 16 or 14 or what?
Absolutely, you could use thicker wire like 16 or 14, it would improve performance over longer distance runs.
I am interested in what you do, you sell boxes already ready to just connect
@jose Luis galicia, I am an electrical engineer who enjoys doing this as a hobby. I do not sell any boxes, but there are folks out there who do.
Was wondering if there's a way I could contact you and ask you some questions about pixel controllers.
You can hit me up on Messenger on Facebook.
So 250 pixels = the actual LED’s, right, since with X Lights, each pixel is 3 channels? And 250 LED’s spaced 1” apart means 1 power supply is needed for every 20 feet?
Eric, 250 pixels is actually 750 LEDs. Each pixel has 3 LEDs (Red, Green, and Blue). You are correct that each LED is a channel. So, 250 pixels spans 750 channels. Standard pixels have 4” spacing between each, so 250 pixels would span at least 1,000” of wire or about 83+ feet if you stretched it out.
Power consumption is hard for me to understand. So for all them stands self injected is only consuming 12 watts and 5amp. So for an power supple that runs 29amp and 350watts you could run say 1200 pixels not going over Amp and watts
MiddleAgedGamerr, I agree that power and electrical concepts can be a challenge for many in the hobby. Here’s a general rule of thumb to make sure you aren’t overloading your power supplies. This is general and will keep you safe.
280W = 350W x 80%, margin to stay at a lower duty cycle to ensure your power supplies last as long as possible. Assuming you’re using the most power hungry 12V regulated pixels that are well balanced (meaning the pixels will use the most power possible), each pixel consumes 0.7W. Resistor based pixels use quite a bit less power.
Using 0.7W/pixel allows 400 pixels at 100% output brightness (280W / 0.7W/pixel). Now, running your pixels at 100% would be way too bright. Most run pixels at 30% or so. Using 30% output brightness, you can power 3x+ pixels, so that would be 1,200 pixels (400x3).
In reality, voltage loss across the pixel runs will result in the pixels actually using less power than these calculations. So, you could do more, but that’ll depend how well the pixels are power balanced and how long your runs are.
Best of luck with your show prep!
Can you maybe share you Excel file for Pixel power calculations with me please?
The file is already available for download. It’s the 6th link in the description area.
Please do a video on wiring for us newbies
John, there’s a lot to potentially cover. What I’m particular do you want to see?
I am not sure how the data is passed from each bundle of lights. It wasn’t clear on how that is handled with the wires between each section
The data line is a continuous run from the first pixel through them all. The power balancing (aka self power injection) wires don’t interfere with the data line. The pigtails have 3 pins. One is data candy that like is continuous through all the pixels.
Greetings, I would like to buy that box, what is the price to give from Puerto Rico, could I pay you for Peypal?
Hi Miguel, I unfortunately can’t help you with a purchase. But hopefully you can find a source. The box is an MTM ACR8-72 Ammo Crate Utility Box.
Greetings, I have another address in Nebraska, there is it possible to send what the price is, thank you
Miguel, there are others who sell ready to run controller boxes. Sorry, I'm not your guy for that.
Sir how to order ?
There are a number of vendors selling pixels. Here are a few US vendors. This is by no means an all inclusive list: Wally's Lights, Wired Watts, Holiday Lighting, Wizard of Wire, DIYLedExpress, and YourPixelStore.
Before you buy anything, be sure to make a plan of what you want to do. That'll save you a bunch of time and money so you don't purchase things you don't really need.
Sir, do you want us to be a partner, let's make the lights a business, I'll take care of the marketing to the clients here in the Philippines.
if you are willing sir.
Appreciate you're willingness to help make a business out of this. At the moment, I'm happy with making free content for others. If I do go into the business, I'll keep you in mind.
series vs parallel circuits
All the pixels (chips and LEDs) are essentially connected in parallel.