Thanks for putting so much time and detail showing step by step on making a case. Not many videos out there like yours. In fact, this is likely the gold standard on how to do it! Have a great day.
The tubing is actually a great idea. Cheaper than plastic washers. I probably have a ton of that stuff sitting around from when we remodeled our kitchen. Thanks for your videos. They are easy to understand and don’t have a bunch of annoying music.
super excelente mi amigo, muy buena su forma de enseñar, y gracias por compartir sus conocimientos, son de mucha ayuda para los que estamos empezando con esto de la iluminación de navidad inteligente, mil gracias desde san Andrés isla Colombia, es usted Bienvenido cuando quiera!!.
Really helped me get ready for my permanent puck lights from YPS… Although your help programming WLED and Xlights would be WONDERFUL as Wasatch help is lacking
@@bergmannlights5149 Excellent and thanks again!! Also, how far can we go on average with the YPS Pucks before Power or Data injection is needed? Just use T connectors and F-Amps? Thx !!
I will do a video in the future about power loss. Based on my calculations and input from YPS, you should be able to go 50 ft/ 150 lights at 30% before power injection/balancing is needed.
Great video, thank you, I'll be using this a lot! I didn't really get a good understanding of why you have two ethernet cables hooked up. What is the top one for, exactly? Also I'm curious if you know what gauge the wire from your connector pigtails is, and what gauge wire you are using to hookup fixtures. Thanks for the education!
One Ethernet cable is for connection to my show Ethernet network. The other is to and a differential receiver. The reciever allows you to add four remote ports. It is for future expansion.
Nice video - have you had any problems with the controller not powering on occasionally? I recall placing a delay to allow the power supply to come up to voltage before powering the controller. Is it the power supply you are using?
Does the thermocouple come with the temperature control board? If not, can you please provide a link. Thank you sir, I’m a newbie and I really appreciate your in depth videos. I’m a happy subscriber!
The temperature controller is separate. Here is a link to the one I used. yourpixelstore.com/product/digital-display-thermostat-and-temperature-controller-fahrenheit/
I've been wanting to build a pixel display, and the controller was my biggest issue, I don't wanna have to purchase a Light-O-Rama controller as I'm an Australia resident, so I've have to pay alot for shipping and it being a Australia rated system, after watching your 1 of your videos on configuring it and then subscribing and finding this video I think you've given me the best info on where to start, I've brought a DMX controller and some addressable leds of Aliexpress to play around with but I am definitely going to make building one or these controllers a project for in the new year, just wondering if you think it would be worth while using a larger electrical box and adding an additional pixel controller so I have 4 outputs, I think your channels going to the best for giving me on advice on where to start and how to build it. I wanna start smallish with about 8 channels and eventually expand overtime as its more of a display for my mums until I eventually move into my own place. Any advice would be appreciated on where I should start would be highly appreciated 👌🏼
Glad the videos are helping. The box I used is pretty much the smallest I would use for this controller. Larger would be better. There is a whole community in Australia that are doing animated light shows. I am sure there are people there that can give you advice on the best places to get controllers. I suggest you look into xLights. Some of the program developers live there.
It depends on the type of LED lights you plan on connecting to the controller. If you buy 12 V pixels and feed them 24 volts you will fry some of the lights.
@bergmannlights5149 Understood. But if you have the option of 12v with a few power injections or 24v with no needed power injections and LEDs support 24v it just seems like a no brainer, go wiyh 24v and not run multiple power lines (unless I'm missing something and I could be)
Yes, more volts less power injection. Personally I haven’t done a cost comparison of getting 24v LED’s vs 12V. From the places I normally purchase my pixels from 12v is readily available at a reasonable price. Do you know the cost difference between the two.
@@bergmannlights5149 I was looking online, and there was little difference in price between 12v and 24v (at least on Alibaba) for the strings I was considering. "rgbw led pixel point light 30mm 12v IP68"
![Felix "Unfair" | [Stray Kids : SKZ-PLAYER]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/Oswujxm2Ag0/mqdefault.jpg)
Thanks for putting so much time and detail showing step by step on making a case. Not many videos out there like yours. In fact, this is likely the gold standard on how to do it! Have a great day.
Thanks! I am glad you found it useful.
I HAVE NOW WATCHED THIS VIDEO 3 TIMES AND I AM PUTTING TOGETHER A LIST OF THE PARTS SO I CAN GO AHEAD AND ORDER THEM. THANK YOU AGAIN MY FRIEND.
Glad I could help
The tubing is actually a great idea. Cheaper than plastic washers. I probably have a ton of that stuff sitting around from when we remodeled our kitchen. Thanks for your videos. They are easy to understand and don’t have a bunch of annoying music.
Glad the videos help.
thank you!!! this really helped!! im so glad you are uploading again!
Glad I could help!
super excelente mi amigo, muy buena su forma de enseñar, y gracias por compartir sus conocimientos, son de mucha ayuda para los que estamos empezando con esto de la iluminación de navidad inteligente, mil gracias desde san Andrés isla Colombia, es usted Bienvenido cuando quiera!!.
Glad to help.
Really helped me get ready for my permanent puck lights from YPS… Although your help programming WLED and Xlights would be WONDERFUL as Wasatch help is lacking
Glad the videos are helping. My next video will be configuring the Wasatch controller for both WLED and xLights.
@@bergmannlights5149 Excellent and thanks again!! Also, how far can we go on average with the YPS Pucks before Power or Data injection is needed? Just use T connectors and F-Amps? Thx !!
I will do a video in the future about power loss. Based on my calculations and input from YPS, you should be able to go 50 ft/ 150 lights at 30% before power injection/balancing is needed.
Extremely well done and appreciated!
Glad you liked it!
Great video, thank you, I'll be using this a lot!
I didn't really get a good understanding of why you have two ethernet cables hooked up. What is the top one for, exactly?
Also I'm curious if you know what gauge the wire from your connector pigtails is, and what gauge wire you are using to hookup fixtures.
Thanks for the education!
One Ethernet cable is for connection to my show Ethernet network. The other is to and a differential receiver. The reciever allows you to add four remote ports. It is for future expansion.
Nice video - have you had any problems with the controller not powering on occasionally? I recall placing a delay to allow the power supply to come up to voltage before powering the controller. Is it the power supply you are using?
Thanks, do far I haven’t had this issue. I am leaving it on all the time, so the chances of issues are reduced
@@bergmannlights5149 Ah - that does simplify things :-). Thanks!
Am i just missing it, or is the power supply link missing? Or did you leave it off because of the varying requirements for a power supply
I used a 12volt Meanwell LRS350 power supply. You can change the power supplies depending on how many pixels you have.
@bergmannlights5149 thank you.. you're doing a great job.
Glad to help.
Does the thermocouple come with the temperature control board? If not, can you please provide a link. Thank you sir, I’m a newbie and I really appreciate your in depth videos. I’m a happy subscriber!
The temperature controller is separate. Here is a link to the one I used.
yourpixelstore.com/product/digital-display-thermostat-and-temperature-controller-fahrenheit/
I've been wanting to build a pixel display, and the controller was my biggest issue, I don't wanna have to purchase a Light-O-Rama controller as I'm an Australia resident, so I've have to pay alot for shipping and it being a Australia rated system, after watching your 1 of your videos on configuring it and then subscribing and finding this video I think you've given me the best info on where to start, I've brought a DMX controller and some addressable leds of Aliexpress to play around with but I am definitely going to make building one or these controllers a project for in the new year, just wondering if you think it would be worth while using a larger electrical box and adding an additional pixel controller so I have 4 outputs, I think your channels going to the best for giving me on advice on where to start and how to build it.
I wanna start smallish with about 8 channels and eventually expand overtime as its more of a display for my mums until I eventually move into my own place.
Any advice would be appreciated on where I should start would be highly appreciated 👌🏼
Glad the videos are helping. The box I used is pretty much the smallest I would use for this controller. Larger would be better. There is a whole community in Australia that are doing animated light shows. I am sure there are people there that can give you advice on the best places to get controllers. I suggest you look into xLights. Some of the program developers live there.
Question, why 12v and not 24v if the LED's are compatible with both?
It depends on the type of LED lights you plan on connecting to the controller. If you buy 12 V pixels and feed them 24 volts you will fry some of the lights.
@bergmannlights5149 Understood. But if you have the option of 12v with a few power injections or 24v with no needed power injections and LEDs support 24v it just seems like a no brainer, go wiyh 24v and not run multiple power lines (unless I'm missing something and I could be)
Yes, more volts less power injection. Personally I haven’t done a cost comparison of getting 24v LED’s vs 12V. From the places I normally purchase my pixels from 12v is readily available at a reasonable price. Do you know the cost difference between the two.
@@bergmannlights5149 I was looking online, and there was little difference in price between 12v and 24v (at least on Alibaba) for the strings I was considering. "rgbw led pixel point light 30mm 12v IP68"
Be careful and make sure the pixels come from a reputable vendor. A few years back there were a bunch that had quality issues. Some caused fires.