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Thanks! I am glad you found it useful.

You're welcome, glad they help.

I used a 12volt Meanwell LRS350 power supply. You can change the power supplies depending on how many pixels you have.

@bergmannlights5149 thank you.. you're doing a great job.

Glad to help.

Local steel supplier. Don’t go to the big box store they charge 4 times the price.

I use xLights. In xLights you use the native arch model with the following settings. Layered Arches checked: Nodes: 156, 3 layers, Inside layer, 49: layer 2, 52: Outside 55. ZigSay layers checked, Lights per node, 3. This assumes that you are using the YPS pixel strips. If you are using different your layer needs maybe different. Reach out to me on Facebook messenger if you want a screen shot of the xLights settings.

@ very much appreciated. I’m very new to xlights. I did do a layered model. I’m going to make changes to the total nodes. I multiplied them out up front.

Happy it helped.

I currently get my pixels from Your Pixel Store. I don't get his standard pixels I get the new improved versions. They are a bit more expensive but the quality is better. Here is a link to what I use. yourpixelstore.com/product/new-improved-5v-ws2811-pixel/

Thanks for the explanation on the correct roofing terms. I guess I should have looked them up first.

Yep- that is why I tested it first

I have thought about using one of the HF electric wenches

Yes my PVC cement is a bit of a mess.

The build receivers range from $20 to $30, the ammo box is about $10, and the power supply is $30. You do have misc parts so add another $10. So bottom line ~$70 to $80. Now one of the advantages of receiver boxes is you get the controller next to the prop and don’t have to worry about voltage drop for long cable runs.

@ thanks for the reply that’s great info to have

Happy to help

You're welcome!

Thanks, do far I haven’t had this issue. I am leaving it on all the time, so the chances of issues are reduced

@@bergmannlights5149 Ah - that does simplify things :-). Thanks!

Thanks for the tip. I have started doing that in my video editor now.

I 3D printed one that is about 8 inches.

@@bergmannlights5149 Thanks will have to see what I can find. I presume you used seeds in the star as well?

I used bullet pixels on the star

@@bergmannlights5149 Thanks for all your efforts. Your videos have been incredibly helpful as I try and figure out this hobby!

Glad they help

I believe there are settings in the LED vision software for this but couldn’t tell you where to find it. Sorry

I do not vent these boxes. Since I live in a northern climate and only use these at Christmas I do not vent them. If I had a warmer climate, I would install a bud vent on the boxes.

Local steel supplier. We have Pacific Steel here in my town. Don’t get it from a big box store. A 5 ft stick will cost the same as a 20ft section from a steel supplier. You can also go to a local fabrication shop if there are any near you

It is possible with certain controllers. Take a look at the kulps.

Thanks

Here it is, ruclips.net/video/6uaUvqZ64dY/видео.htmlsi=Ycwp-7glB-QQHNW7

Yes they do. The base helps keep the shape

Glad the videos are helping. The box I used is pretty much the smallest I would use for this controller. Larger would be better. There is a whole community in Australia that are doing animated light shows. I am sure there are people there that can give you advice on the best places to get controllers. I suggest you look into xLights. Some of the program developers live there.

On my original arches I used 30 per meter. My new ones use 60 per meter. Both look great.

@@bergmannlights5149 thanks kindly for the prompt reply. 5v or 12v on those. Not coming up with 12v RGBW strips with IP65 in 12v. Do you feel that IP65 or IP30 is ok. Looks like your doing IP65 or 67. Hoping to get some of these put together for next season to add to my show.

@@cbcalhoun I am not sure of the IP rating, but they had a silicone cover over the lights. When I cut them in half, I bought 5 meter roll. On the cut ends I used hot glue to seal them back up. You can buy precut strips from Your Pixel Store,Wally’s Lights or Wired Watts. All of these guys are great vendors.

One other item, I use 12vdc RGB strips.

@@bergmannlights5149 Thank you!

You can run about 120 lights on one port before you need power injection. With your 8 port controller you have plenty of outputs so you shouldn’t need power injection. Just need to plan your controller location so that the cords are not too far away from it. I have a controller build video that should help figure out all the parts you will need. WLED Controller Build ruclips.net/video/3zlrzja-9d4/видео.html

@bergmannlights5149 Great video AND a great follow-up? Jeez, you got a sub from me! I appreciate the video and information. Perfectly concise writeup.

@@bergmannlights5149 I do have a follow up as I'm getting my lights out now. Some of my strands will be on the opposite side of my home and will be approximately 70-80 feet away. Are there any specific connectors or extensions I should be looking for when I'm hooking up the opposite side of the home?

I would not run a line for the pixels that far. I would get another controller

Also, how would you connect the lower puck lights and top puck lights on a two story house? Thanks in advance! Great videos!

You are correct, thanks for the correction

I found that out too haha

It is on my list. It will be sometime in the new year.

The temperature controller is separate. Here is a link to the one I used. yourpixelstore.com/product/digital-display-thermostat-and-temperature-controller-fahrenheit/

You’re welcome, glad it worked for you!

That is a big question. I am considering doing a video on that. Bottom line is that you add extra power when the lights start dimming. I don’t advise doing it unless you know some of the rules first.

Here is the link for the hub I used which was 1/2 inch EMT. They also have them that use PVC and other sizes. sfl-designs.com/STL-File-Mini-Seed-Pixel-Tree-Base-1-2-EMT-to-1-2-EMT-p685329625

Yes I would test. You should be able to go further, but you could run into data issues and need an f-amp

​@@bergmannlights5149 F-Amp is only needed if I have long runs between controller and first pixel, or from last pixel to long (over 10m) between props. I wouldn't think I would need an F-Amp in between pixels, that are short distance.

In most cases yes, but after long runs I have seen some degradation where one was needed.

@@bergmannlights5149 Sometimes it's caused be a degradation of the ground, as the data relies heavily on a good ground as well.. Appreciate the heads up!

Hard to say exactly what is going on, but try not plugging in your Ethernet, then look for the WLED hotspot on your phones WiFi, log into it then setup a static IP address in the WLED network settings. Hope this helps.

@@bergmannlights5149 Thank you. Could it be a possibility that I do not have one with wifi? I just purchased it and it arrived today. It's a Wasatch Pixel Controller.

Which one did you get. He does have some that don’t have WiFi

Yes- programs like xLights can be used with a compatible controller to create different patterns on the tree/lights.

It depends on the type of LED lights you plan on connecting to the controller. If you buy 12 V pixels and feed them 24 volts you will fry some of the lights.

@bergmannlights5149 Understood. But if you have the option of 12v with a few power injections or 24v with no needed power injections and LEDs support 24v it just seems like a no brainer, go wiyh 24v and not run multiple power lines (unless I'm missing something and I could be)

Yes, more volts less power injection. Personally I haven’t done a cost comparison of getting 24v LED’s vs 12V. From the places I normally purchase my pixels from 12v is readily available at a reasonable price. Do you know the cost difference between the two.

@@bergmannlights5149 I was looking online, and there was little difference in price between 12v and 24v (at least on Alibaba) for the strings I was considering. "rgbw led pixel point light 30mm 12v IP68"

Be careful and make sure the pixels come from a reputable vendor. A few years back there were a bunch that had quality issues. Some caused fires.

When I was setting up my panels I didn’t have a noise issue. I did have to get a setup file from the vendor I bought the panels from.

I am using RGB pucks. YPS does sell RGBW pucks but I don’t have those. I am running 120 RGB lights without power injection. At 150 I noticed enough voltage drop to change the lights color. If you drop the brightness you can go more than 120.

@@bergmannlights5149 Thank you! I guess RGBW uses WS2814... Can Kulp controllers support this? Sorry I'm new to this :)

It should but you should check with Kulp Lights.

I use my pi with FPP loaded on it. It allows me to run the show without tying up my computer. I use the xLights tool FPP connect to upload the sequences to it.

@ Thank you for answering :-) If I run a projector in my show, the same RPi will do it? (HDMI projector) or should I use another one? Can the 2 sync together (e.g., one running the lights and one running the projector hD video).

I haven’t tried running a projector off of a pi yet. Not sure if the one running your show can handle the load of a projector and as the master. I suggest you go to the FPP facebook group or xLights zoom room and see what they say.

That is what I tried to show, maybe I didn’t make it clear enough

@@bergmannlights5149you did fine, that guy has no idea what he is talking about

@@brettesser3595 Yes he does, watch again from 2:50, and at 12:45 he did it the right way.

You could do 600 on one port but you will need to do some power injection. My tests show that you can run 120 without doing power injection. When you get to 150 the last set of lights yellow, too low a voltage.

I have a lot of different brands. I have a Kulp K8, an Experience Lights Genius Pro 32, a Genius 16, Falcon F16v3, and a Wastch Quad+

Glad you liked it!

I just set two of them up in my show. At 30% brightness in RGBW chase mode I am pulling 2.5 amps. When I add power injection at the back side it drops to 1.5 amps. I am setting up backside power injection since I have a star hooked up to the end of the tree. Hope this helps.