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Thanks for the comment and question. Yes, you could balance power with larger props and add power injection as well. This video addresses that very question. m.ruclips.net/video/Ci5-0c07HXs/видео.html

Glad the tip helped! 8’ deep, wow.

I would recommend putting the F-Amp after power injecting. The improved power baseline will allow the the F-Amp to do its best to boost and cleanup the signal as much as possible. If you do it before the power injection point and the voltage has decreased too much, the F-Amp can only do so much to create a solid signal. That said, if the data coming in is already poor, the F-Amp will not be able to remove all the noise. When I chain props with lengths between runs, I recommend power injecting and boosting the signal before a length of run to the next prop. Best of luck.

Glad it was helpful!

Hi and thanks for writing in. From your description of events, I would think that the lights are completely fine. The connection from the ESPixel stick may not be making a great connection if as you say, the first pixel used to blink. I would re-check your connection from the ESPixel stick to the seed pixels.

The female plugs are the ones with the power, just like your home outlets. The male plugs are the beginning of your lights which are getting the power from the female end. Hopefully that helps you to keep them straight in your mind.

@gritz1701 Thanks for the question. My setup is pretty straightforward. I use a Pi 3B+ running FPP to run the show. It’s hard wire connected via a network switch on a dedicated show network to the F16v3 and the two P10 panel setups. The P10 panels are each running a Beagle Bone Black with an octoscroller cape, connected to the 36 P10 panels. I don’t have a video on it (yet) as it’s pretty standard, and there are many videos out there showing how to setup and use FPP. Please let me know if you have other questions.

Thanks for the comment Dale. The F-Amp used in this video is a Falcon product from PixelController. pixelcontroller.com/store/accessories/54-famp-xconnect.html

@NiFamilyLights thankyou for getting back to me. I really appreciate it. I have 5 of them on order. I will be checking out more of your videos to try and get a light show organized. Dale

From a physical setup, they are all identical. Within xlights, the channel numbering will follow how you have them laid out in the layout tab. If you created one mini tree then copied and pasted the rest, their channel numbers will be consecutive.

In my show, I do chain 6 of them off of a single controller output with power injection after every two mini trees. You can see how I do that in the “How-To - Chain Pixel Props Like a Champ” video.

@Davidcase4600, thanks for the comment! I shot this video with my iPhone 13 using the built in camera app. Thanks for asking how I make these recordings. I’m working on a video to show what I do, so stay tuned! BTW, I don’t change anything with the show when I record it.

Thanks for the comment! I purchased these pixels from DIYLedExpress. However, there are many vendors that sell high quality pixels.

Where are the dead pixels? I don’t think there are any. There are two 4x4 sign posts in front of the megatree. Is that what you’re thinking are dead pixels?

All lights used are standard bullet pixels.

Thank you very much!

I've been running pixel light shows for many years and haven't needed to purchase pixels for a while. That said, the pixels used in my props and shows were purchased from DIYLedExpress (pixels are sourced from ScottLED), also directly from ScottLED, and Ray Wu. There are a number of pixel suppliers out there. It comes down to price, quality, and customer service.

Over the 7 years with this mega tree setup, we have certainly gone through a number of high wind events. I've never dropped the tree or did anything to prep it for the winds, and it's been fine. We may have had gusts up to 60 mph, but I don't know if we've ever had gusts up to 130kmph (~80mph). With that amount of winds, you may need more than 4 guy wires at the top and some guy wires in the middle to keep the pole straight. Even with high winds, the bottom won't move since all the weight is basically going straight down. So, I see no need to sink any part of the pole into the ground.

How long are your 4 legs?@@NiFamilyLights

@BobbySullivan the legs are half the length of a full pipe section, so 5' each.

If I cut this pole to 16feet above ground, would 4 foot legs be OK@@NiFamilyLights

@BobbySullivan sure, 4 foot legs with a 16 foot center pole would work well.

Thanks for asking. Yes, it's much easier to cut Coro along "the grain", and I have a tool that makes that super easy. However, the mini trees don't have any straight lines, so there's no getting around cutting the Coro at some sort of angle. What I did was trace out what I wanted to waste the least amount of coro and went from there. There's no particular mini tree that feels any stronger or weaker than any other.

your vid was very helpful in designing the trees. The back section I had to do some estimates for the sides but they worked out ok. I ended up using a dremel ultasaw to do the cutting;. used a blade for metal which is very thin and was able to adjust the depth so that it cut through the first and most of the second layer of coroplast no geustimations with this technique. enjoy your vids. quite stimulating

Thanks for the question. Unfortunately, I do not have a video of the P10 build. I do have a built tutorial document that's in the description of the video. That should provide all the details plus a lot of pictures that I took while building them. Good luck!

Hit me up on messenger at Facebook at Ni Family Lights.

@jayppro Thanks for coming to the show! Happy New Year!

Thank you kindly!

@glenstinson5032, thanks for the comment and glad that you find them informative! The 1" gray conduit is Schedule 40 electrical conduit from the local home improvement store. They come in 10' segments, so you can cut what you need down to size for your mega tree base ring. Unfortunately the base ring anchor brackets are not available anymore. They came from an online store that is no longer in business. Hopefully you can source some other options to set your base ring off the ground. It isn't necessary, but I like that it doesn't kill the grass and provides a place to easily loop the strips without being in the grass.

Yes, I used normal solder for each set of wires connected together which were then heat shrieked. Initially, I put heat shrink on all three wires so they were together, but as I did more of them, I didn't bother with that step, as it was one more thing to do that wasn't really necessary. There are many good videos on RUclips showing how to solder two wires together and apply heat shrink over it.

@andrewm1967, thanks for the question. I actually don't set the brightness output in xLights. I do that directly in the controller, setting the output brightness of each pixel string to 30%. That said, I've been doing this for a while and manually setup/load my controller settings. xLights does now let you do all that configuring from the controller tab. So, you should be able to set that up in that first tab in the app.