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OMG, you had to bring that up, having PTSD! Hiring the reindeer patrol was the best thing I've ever done. You don't want to mess with them.

Thank you very much!

I haven't purchased pixels for a while. The pixels in this show are 8 years old and going strong (like your older pixels). The pixels in my shows were purchased from ScottLED, directly from China. Sorry to hear that your newest pixels have been unreliable. If you're looking to get solid pixels, you can get them from reputable companies such as YourPixelStore, VisionaryLightShows, WiredWatts, Wally's Lights, or Gilbert Engineering USA. You'll get quality products and great support from any of these vendors.

They are P10 panels. Each one is 6 wide by 6 tall. This video shows a closer look of the setup during the daytime. ruclips.net/video/iivmBEor_po/видео.html

Yes, I wired all my props for self power injection (aka power balancing), to include the 48 pixel snowflakes and even all the house outline and roofline swag segments. For larger props with 300+ pixels, adding wiring for power balancing will certainly make a big difference and doing so will not cause any problems. Best of luck and congratulations with your first year!

Thanks

Thanks for the comment. I use 10W RGB floods under the eaves. There are 11 of them running across the eaves, hidden behind the DIY homemade swags. Here’s a video of the RGB floods. m.ruclips.net/video/M-oyVHvYZdo/видео.html

No, those are P10 panels. I have a video showing the repair of one of the screens if you want to see the build up close. Also, in the description of that video, there’s a linked document with a pictoral walk through of making the P10 panel build.

Thanks for the comment. It's amazing how something seemingly so hard to do can have such a simple solution!

@steviep3736, thanks for the comment and glad that the videos have been useful for you! Congrats on starting into this hobby and I hope you enjoy the process. For the meters, I show how they are wired up in this video (ruclips.net/video/z-UStFoIHY8/видео.html). Note, that I wired up my first ammo box build with them. However, I've found over the years that they aren't as useful as one would suspect. The power supply voltages don't stray on their own, and if a power supply does go out, it'll be obvious. Also, adding the wiring in your control box makes it much more complex than it needs to be. When I build subsequent builds for the Vine Lights show, I didn't include them, and the internal wiring was much simpler. That said, I do think it's useful to have them for testing of your setup before things go out so you have an idea where you may run into issues. Best of luck and keep the comments coming with any questions you have.

That’s for the ifno

@@NiFamilyLights In the process of sting up serval props this way, where did you get the connecter that you use, where they cut offs? I have a custom made an eve holder for the lights and plan to use this to power them there is a total of 200 nodes that run 48 feet as a single string from a single port. I assume this will work, as i said this is my first year of doing this. and right now, I'm way behind At what point should I look at Injecting new power to a string, "when using self-injection", I have watch about all of your videos and I have saw many different things but still a little lost on when to Inject Power and add F-amps (which i did not know about without your videos)

@steviep3736 For many of the connectors, I did use cut offs. I ordered most of my pixels in bundles of 50. And when I needed longer runs, I cut off the connectors and soldered the pixel wiring together, giving me extra pigtails. For my house outlines, some of them are much longer than 48 feet and 200 nodes. I added wiring to each segment of my house outlines such that they are also "self-power injected" (aka power balanced). That way the voltage across many segments remains fairly consistent. It does add work and uses a bit more wiring, but doing so really reduces the chances of color degradation and data corruption. I currently use very few F-Amps, even for many longer runs from the controller to props. It's good to have F-Amps on hand if you're running into data corruption, to see if they resolve any flickering issues. By adding the power balancing wiring, you'll likely not need to use them. When you're chaining a number of props together, at some point it is good to power inject. A good rule of thumb is anywhere after 250-300 pixels, you should power inject for 12V pixels.

Thanks, glad you like it! It's definitely a fun son for kids. This is one that I got from a fellow light show enthusiast. He hasn't put this one up for sale yet, but if you hit me up on FB, I can connect you with him.

For anyone interested in getting this sequence, the original creator is posting it at this website. xlightsseq.com/sequences/authors/lightsofprospectvillage.8575/

Sure, for the Vine Lights show, every yard prop has EMT conduit as part of the supporting frame. Near the bottom of each EMT conduit, I secured an EMT conduit hanger, like this from Amazon (amzn.to/3Z3eanE). Then I ran the 1/8" guy wire cable through the hanger brackets and secured one end to a ground anchor (like the mega tree guy wire ground anchor). I purchased a roll of 250' galvanized steel 1/8" 7x19 wire rope from Ebay for about $45 (including tax). The wire rope galvanized clamps are also less expensive at EBay than Amazon.

Thank you!

Just heat shrink tubing is all I use when soldering to keep water out.

Thanks for the comment! Regarding power injection coming from a different power supply, as long as the V- terminals of the power supplies are bonded together, you should be all set.

Appreciate the comment and glad you like the show! Unfortunately, I don't sell sequences. This particular sequence was from a freely shared sequence I obtained several years ago.

The panels are P10s. From the viewing distance, they are often mistaken for TVs.

did you make it or purcahse it?

I made them. I didn’t make a build video for them, but I did make a repair video so you can see them up close. In the description of this video, there’s a link to a pictoral walk through of how I build the enclosures, if that’s helpful for you. The most difficult and expensive part was the acrylic face cover. There are less expensive options out there for the covering. ruclips.net/video/iivmBEor_po/видео.html

They are Px panels, programmed like pixel matrices but not standard bullet or square pixels. The density is def much higher than typical pixel matrices.

If you watch videos of the Vine Lights show recordings on this channel, the center matrix in that show is a pixel matrix with pixels every 2 inches. That resolution isn’t great for higher res images and video despite the matrix being 8’ tall and 10’ wide.

Thanks @zski1. The ghosts are singing face images that I have and applied to the lyric track on the P10 panels.

@ Ok, that’s cool. Very nice!!

It’ll end on Halloween night.

Yes, you can do that with the F16V5 board. What I’ve seen others do with the larger controllers in a box like the CG1500 is put the F16 on the right and the two power supplies on the door. That way the 16 controller pigtails can go straight down and out of the enclosure.

@@NiFamilyLights thanks 🙏