I followed this video as instructed and I am very pleased to say it worked to near perfection. To be clear, I am a complete novice at this. I didn’t even own a polisher. I’m the type of person who would just hire someone to do this however I decided to give it a shot. I bought everything mentioned in the video and followed his instructions and all I can say is, “wow!” The B-Pillars on my 2015 BMW X5 look amazing. Almost back to the day I first bought it 2 years ago. There are virtually no scratches or swirls in them. Just a deep black gloss. I am very happy with the results. Thank you for posting this video!
Scott, I've watched a ton a ton a ton of videos , I just think your videos are more informative , I don't care there 18/20 minutes, thanks and keep them coming
thank you pighater951...im sorry i talk to much but for me its about the details and I'm so happy to hear its helping you guys!...as always I'm grateful
@@dallaspaintcorrectionautod8343 yeah I prefer the longer videos too. When I'm learning I want allll the information I can get especially even the teacher is knowledgeable. Keep it up!
People who love Scott know that he is a good man Scott teach us a very practical way how to clean car to perfection with his knowledge while 85% people that hated him talking they was looking for magic car wash and magic pills 😜
Thank you for all the priceless information you've given us. You along with a couple other channels have allowed me to make a living doing what I love. Thank you so much.
You're killing us..lol. No brother, I love the info. This has always been my Achilles Heel. We rebuilt a 2016 Ford Fusion and the b-pillars are a mess. I've worked on the pillars on the drivers side and even though I've gotten them close to 100% there still are tiny swirls in them. I've used 3 inch microfiber finishing pads, 3 inch Hex-Logic finishing pads with both Meguiar's 205 and Chemical Guys V38 and I've still been unable to remove the micro scratches. To the untrained eye those scratches are hard to see, but I definitely see them and they drive me nuts! I'll definitely look into using this method and start by swinging by Harbor Freight in the morning! Thanks a million brother for this vid!
I am exactly in the same situation. I've used the finest polishes like Menzerna 3800 and KC M3 with the softest pad possible but when getting in really close with the Scangrip I can also see those micro scratches that all youtubers somehow hide because they keep the light low or don't zoom enough. Now you must think what level are you after. My belief is that the correction process is not 100% and who says it can be, then that's a lie. You can take any kind of surface microscopically and see fine scratches due to the fact that any polish has some kind of micro or diminishing abrasive which will drag onto the surface and level the existing scratches by creating finer scratches. The problem is that on a harder clearcoat you can't see those really really fine micro-marring which you can pick up when looking closely at these pillars.
I’m glad to read someone was able to fix the Ford Fusion B pillars! I have a 13’ Fusion in GA heat, all my b pillars look like shattered glass! It would be nice to try a repair before looking for a factory replacement part! 😳🤞
Great video, Scott! These "long" videos of yours never seem like a struggle. You have a pleasant manner, inflection, and speaking voice. It never sounds like you're condescending or belittling the viewer, just chatting with a friend and talking about a subject you're knowledgeable about. When you spend your time correcting and maintaining the finish on vehicles, it's funny how quickly you notice when people leave dusty/greasy marks on windows or panels that you've worked on, haha
Great stuff mate.finally someone who says things how they are.. very professional and informative... Learning a lot from your experience.. thanks Scott from a novice in Australia..
Scott, I enjoyed your video. A few things.....clear coat isn't clear coat. Most car manufacturers have 3rd parties or another "line" paint the plastic, trim, bumper covers, etc. So, the clear on the sheet metal is almost always different. Bumper covers have a flex agent in it to keep paint from cracking in low speed impacts, etc. The paint/clear on that B pillar could absolutely be "soft" which would lead to easier scratching, so it makes sense that you'd want to be less aggressive in your correction process here....and you're right about plastic holding the heat. Sheet metal disperses it much easier. Some clears are "hard" especially ones for industrial applications like IMRON. They're durable and difficult to scratch. Also more difficult to paint correct. BTW, RUPES has 3", 2" and 1" polishers with much smaller throws too but looks like your polisher works just fine for this application.
Hi Scott, I enjoy all your videos that I watched. They are very informative. Can you tell me what speed did you set your DA to after you spread the product at speed 2? Did you set it to speed 6? Thank you.
Found your channel while looking for something else. Cant remember what. Lol. But you have been very informative to me. Not trying to get onto detailing or anything just want to get better results on my own car. Ive packed in alot of information in a short time and look forward to using it. Thanks. Who knows. I might get into detailing if i can get my junk looking good. Thanks again and keep doin you man. Looks like your results are awesome
Scott, I have a Camry, white two-coat system Crystal (Pearl) White, Japan-made model, 2004. My B-Pillar trim is matte black, not gloss. What do I use for a non-gloss B-Pillar? Also, been wanting to ask you....how do you wash a delicate two-coat Pearl Crystal White paint car? I'm planning to detail it for the first time in its life (and mine), a total newbie here, just bought a Shurhold 3500 DA after seeing one of your videos, and am so so confused as to what pads to use. The Crystal White is a soft pain, so I've been told. I believe it's the same paint as the Lexus E300 Crystal White. Obviously after 16 yrs of its life, being corrected for the first time by a DA, should I use a mild or heavy cutting pad? And which brand? Help please.
Just a thought... Would it be better to install a clear paint protection film after polishing? It would seem like a good idea but I'm not sure if that is possible
Hey Scott, Don't bother about talking too much. there is a big difference between babbling rubbish and knowing what your talking about. you are passionate about your trade, AND BELIEVE what you are saying"well done mate" Here in Australia it gets awfully hot and that causes these areas to break down and go flaky. Personally I encourage people to put 3M paint protection film on, but you have opened another avenue. Thanks for your honesty and integrity. I hope you get to read this God bless you bro Ralph (Chuckiein oz).
Hi Scott, another great video. Super tips about a topic that is practically taboo. Everybody notices this trim and hates it for the reasons you say -- not durable in a vulnerable area! However, my car needs a slight variation on this. My saab convertible has a matt-black windshield frame (about 2.5 inches wide all around) with of course rubber between it and the glass. After 20 years of loyal service the matt-black metal frame is blemished -- still in tact, no flaking clear coat, but the it's faded and smudged with various windshield treatments, convertible top sealants, finger oil, etc. I always thought a small, simple polisher (no eccentric motion) would be best. And now you've confirmed that. Thank you. The plan is to polish it as you demonstrated, but NOT with a fine polish that has fillers and sealants. Why? Because the windshield frame is hard metal and does not get touched in the frequency of door frames, whereas you're advice for door frames makes absolute perfect sense (actually, it'S super intelligent advice that only a real pro would know). Then, if my windshield frame looks like the matt clear coat is as thin as the skin on my teeth after a careful, light polish, while it's already taped off, I'll clean it with alcohol and give it three light coats of matt clear K2 top coat. The questions is, should or can one polish or "finish fine sand" matt clear coat when done? What do you do with matt clear coat? Leave it? Wet sand it with 2000 grit? Let us know! Thanks again for the great video and God bless !
I'm guessing I could use the Mcguiars M205 polish that I already have for this purpose or should I get HE Speed? After your Mercedes vid I picked up 105 and 205. Haven't used either yet but I'm gearing up!
About every 6 months, when I wax my car, I just use meguiars ultimate polish on them by hand, gently applying the product, and follow with ultimate paste wax. They look like new afterwards. I do try to not touch them to close the doors with them, and always am gentle when washing them .
If you ever visit Ireland Sir for gods sakes Don't kiss the Blarney Stone. You already have the gift of gab. Your vids have helped me a lot. Thanks Man.
Scott, you can be my parent any day of the week, I lost my dad when I was just 16. I learned a lot from him, but just not enough. That tape looks like blue painters tape. Do you get the automotive kind at parts stores? Also, on the harbor freight, could you demo how to replace brushes, head grease, & bearings. Thank you . You are a walking book of knowledge when it comes to detailing.
Some dealerships are starting to put a camo pattern, carbon fibre type wrap on the pillars which doesn't mark or scratch when touched...and lasts a long time. I must say, it also looks great on the vehicle pillars and also comes in different color tones.
My 08 Escape's B pillar covers have a gloss plastic coating over aluminum. About half of it has peeled off. They sell adhesive backed covers in either 304 Stainless or gloss black that last about 10 years. I'm going that route... wish me luck! I'll keep you updated.
love to watch you Scott very informative just what i was looking to correct. Couldnt you put that clear plastic protection over them after you get them perfect like you want.i have 2016 f150 no kids just me and i cant keep it looking good.keep up the great vids.
Hey Scott, you mentioned not to let the pad touch the tape, but in the video it looked like you were going over it the whole time. Was it not touching the tape because the panel was slightly higher than the tape or did you mean to just be sure not to bear down on the tape with the edge of the pad at an angle? I only ask this because i plan on buying a polisher soon to do paint correction and this is a really scratched area on my truck as well so i will have to do it too.
You say they're just going to get scratched again, that's not true if you put a clear bra on them. I always put a clear bra on my vehicles on the b-pillar trim so it doesn't scratch
There are many videos on RUclips for your industry but I find myself migrating to yours because of your simple delivery and get the job done methods. You talk a little differently than people around here. Sometimes I find it hard to follow up on your product choices such as the yellow and thick white pads used in this video. Oh and is claybar, claybar or have you found a great buy or a great product? If you do not have the time to put links in the description, that ok, but please just jot down a few notes for us newbies to follow along a bit easier. Thanks for taking time from home to make such effective videos for us.
I just got a Griot’s G9 kit from autogeek, only 9mm of throw, and came with meguirs 205 ultra finishing polish, pads, etc. Would that polish in combination with the orange pad it comes with be sufficient for my swirled piano black b pillars or do I need a different pad and polish? Thanks, love your videos
Scott, you don't talk to much you just have a lot of information to give out and I appreciate your knowledge.. That "B" pillar is a pain in the ass, mine isn't scratched just finger prints just need to do what you said. Retrain myself from closing my door that way. Old habits are hard to break. I will work on that. Now my text is as long as your video.. Ha. Keep the great knowledgeable vids comming I watch and learn everyday from you Thank you.. Fucki the Haters, there out there with everything.. Your awesome Scott...
I always open the door when polishing B pillars. I don't like overlap and touch the other B pillar. Same goes to engine hood. Open and slightly lift up a bit and I put yoga block below so that I don't overlap the fender. Anyway great video sir.
Good video! I recently had to glue some retainer clips that hold windshield trim piece panels in place and then had to tape them with masking tape, so the glue would cure. 2 days later, I was removing that tape, but for some reason it left some sticky/glue residue on A pillar and that black high gloss plastic trim, mentioned above. I didn't really see any dirt, so I tried to scrub/clean off that residue with alcohol pads and managed to scratch clear coat from the A pillar and also trim plastic. I took care of the car's paint with Maguiar's ScratchX 2.0 and it did pretty well. Do you think I can use this on the plastic trim as well? There are couple of quarter sized scrub marks. I don't have any tools, just applicator pad and ScratchX paste.
Just another do it yourselfer that is learning alot from your videos . I like to drive clean cars and enjoy the work to get them looking their best , to me it isn't work , I enjoy detailing . I'm a ♍ virgo , perfection is a pain at times . Keep up the good work and I look forward to hearing from you soon on the WWW 😎
Would I use this method and chemical to CLEAN what looks like a white polish or paint spill on the pillar? It looks like a dried up white streak of water.
My 2012 ML350 has water spots on these panels. Actually, they are mostly on the panel behind the back window, so the C pillar I guess. It seems to be glossy painted plastic. How do you suggest I handle that? No scratches, just water marks.
Thoughts on maybe Meguiar's wash plus instead for a light polish? just thinking of more "handy" ways of getting similar results and staying away from tape issues. Or even just a hand applicator with m205 or boss creams?
I have a 2004 Lexus RX 330 There’s a piece of black trim kind a like the side trim that your polishing and it’s oxidized really bad can you help me how to treat that do I do the same steps like you’re doing here on these pillars or do I need to replace it unfortunately it’s really expensive piece and I don’t have the money for it Thank you Scott love the videos man
Another great vid! Scott, you must be making a little $ via RUclips to go with your auto correction business, way to go Scott! (? What speed are you using on the DA?
Hi Scott, only just found your channel and LOVING it. I'm in Australia and was hoping you could recommend a Meguiar's product which could be used for polishing these gloss black trims. Thanks in advance....Greg
I've been waiting to try this until I thought about the procedure I want to use. I wonder if the DA you are using here has similar specs to the 3" G. Garage DA, which I already have. Their site says the specs are: 240-watt, 2-amp motor, 5mm throw.
Scott, Can HD Speed or Sonax Perfect Finish, be applied to the B Pillars by hand, instead of a machine ? Can CGs VRP or a chemical plastic restorer, be used to correct, maintain and protect B pillars ? Love your videos ! Thank you
@@jlmagana you are welcome. I just polished my B pillars with Griot's correcting creme and a meguiars microfiber. Then did a polish with some meguiars polish I had. Came out great. Then I had them clear bra protected. With the headlights and rear bumper load edge. Thinking of doing the hood next.
Os there any product you would recommend from auto zone? I have a brand new c63s gloss black mirror housing and trim. First time washing it left water spots on them so i used meguaris ultimate compound to remove it. But it left swirl marks and hazey looking. 😓
Man I thought I was the only one with the adhesive catching the pad, doesn’t matter whether you use a 3 inch or an ibrid nano you have to get close to the edges that will catch the adhesive, total nightmare
The problem with the video is the pillar is already is decent shape to begin with. It be better to use one needing TLC rather than something that is pretty much near "perfection" to begin with.
Hmmmmm. I have what looks like run marks on my 2012 crv pillars. Like they used a harsh car wash and over time wore some gloss off or something. Not sure what to do with it.
How would you go about getting scratches out of b pillars like these ones right here? I have some good scratches on my Mercedes b pillar trim on the passenger side
Scott, is there any way to "keep" the A/B/C black pillars from scratching when washing? Also I just realized what you were saying; amazingly enough I was trying to use my Makita DA with a 5 inch pad earlier on my A pillar, and I was getting these really small micro scratches on the pillar. I was wondering if it was my pad (lake country) or if it was my polish. Then I switched to my 3 inch griots with the same exact pad and polish (just in 3 inch form), and a few passes and the pillar was perfect.
you say to avoid DA buffers yet you used a Harbor Freight DA ~ aren't you meaning to say to avoid the use of larger long throw size pads in a DA and be sure to use a smaller finishing buffer accessory in the 3-inch size backing plate & pad range ?
I'm going to have to bring my car to you some time. I love detailing and I'm learning how to do paint correction on my car but it's black and I'm not getting the results I want.
![Chino Pacas - Modo Capone (with Drake & Fuerza Regida) [Video Oficial]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/zjv8TQ0gBkg/mqdefault.jpg)
I followed this video as instructed and I am very pleased to say it worked to near perfection. To be clear, I am a complete novice at this. I didn’t even own a polisher. I’m the type of person who would just hire someone to do this however I decided to give it a shot. I bought everything mentioned in the video and followed his instructions and all I can say is, “wow!” The B-Pillars on my 2015 BMW X5 look amazing. Almost back to the day I first bought it 2 years ago. There are virtually no scratches or swirls in them. Just a deep black gloss. I am very happy with the results. Thank you for posting this video!
Yea its not rocket science.........
How did you scratch them so noticeably in 2 years? Not criticizing, just curious.
This video has been 6 years old but doesn't seem outdated. Thanks for the tips!
Scott, I've watched a ton a ton a ton of videos , I just think your videos are more informative , I don't care there 18/20 minutes, thanks and keep them coming
John thank you so much for your kind words!..im happy I'm helping you out with info and as always I'm grateful for your support!
thank you pighater951...im sorry i talk to much but for me its about the details and I'm so happy to hear its helping you guys!...as always I'm grateful
what product do I use?
So true - Scott is awesome! Thank you Scott.
@@dallaspaintcorrectionautod8343 yeah I prefer the longer videos too. When I'm learning I want allll the information I can get especially even the teacher is knowledgeable. Keep it up!
People who love Scott know that he is a good man Scott teach us a very practical way how to clean car to perfection with his knowledge while 85% people that hated him talking they was looking for magic car wash and magic pills 😜
Most of what I’ve learned in detailing has been due to Scott of Dallas Paint Correction. he’s a wonderful teacher.
Thank you for all the priceless information you've given us. You along with a couple other channels have allowed me to make a living doing what I love. Thank you so much.
You're killing us..lol. No brother, I love the info. This has always been my Achilles Heel. We rebuilt a 2016 Ford Fusion and the b-pillars are a mess. I've worked on the pillars on the drivers side and even though I've gotten them close to 100% there still are tiny swirls in them. I've used 3 inch microfiber finishing pads, 3 inch Hex-Logic finishing pads with both Meguiar's 205 and Chemical Guys V38 and I've still been unable to remove the micro scratches. To the untrained eye those scratches are hard to see, but I definitely see them and they drive me nuts! I'll definitely look into using this method and start by swinging by Harbor Freight in the morning! Thanks a million brother for this vid!
Isn't 205 a 2nd step polish, wouldn't 105, the compound, be the one to use for correction of the swirls?
I am exactly in the same situation. I've used the finest polishes like Menzerna 3800 and KC M3 with the softest pad possible but when getting in really close with the Scangrip I can also see those micro scratches that all youtubers somehow hide because they keep the light low or don't zoom enough. Now you must think what level are you after. My belief is that the correction process is not 100% and who says it can be, then that's a lie. You can take any kind of surface microscopically and see fine scratches due to the fact that any polish has some kind of micro or diminishing abrasive which will drag onto the surface and level the existing scratches by creating finer scratches. The problem is that on a harder clearcoat you can't see those really really fine micro-marring which you can pick up when looking closely at these pillars.
I’m glad to read someone was able to fix the Ford Fusion B pillars! I have a 13’ Fusion in GA heat, all my b pillars look like shattered glass! It would be nice to try a repair before looking for a factory replacement part! 😳🤞
Scott loves to talk, 13:40 for the start.
brilliant people have a lot to say:)...thanks for noticing
The hads are working as fast as the mouth.
Learn to spell! It's spelled "TOALK". When you live in Dallas like Scott! Or rather in phonetics... 😄 👍
@@tredfxman It's a New Yorker accent.
To everyone who thinks our Scot talks too much. Stop complaining and listen. he gives more information in 20 minutes then others can give in an hour.
'........THAN others can give in an hour'. You went to school for how many years and you still don't know when to use 'than' and 'then'? Lol.
I love how you're always so polite in everything you say bro.
Why not prop door open with something like thick foam and you would be able to do each panel seperately.
Great video, Scott! These "long" videos of yours never seem like a struggle. You have a pleasant manner, inflection, and speaking voice. It never sounds like you're condescending or belittling the viewer, just chatting with a friend and talking about a subject you're knowledgeable about.
When you spend your time correcting and maintaining the finish on vehicles, it's funny how quickly you notice when people leave dusty/greasy marks on windows or panels that you've worked on, haha
Great stuff mate.finally someone who says things how they are.. very professional and informative... Learning a lot from your experience.. thanks Scott from a novice in Australia..
Never apologize for making a detailed video man its helpful. Some people need to stop being crybabies
"Love those long fingernails, don't get rid of them." LOL.
Brilliant video, really made me smile. This guy really gets it!!
Scott, I enjoyed your video. A few things.....clear coat isn't clear coat. Most car manufacturers have 3rd parties or another "line" paint the plastic, trim, bumper covers, etc. So, the clear on the sheet metal is almost always different. Bumper covers have a flex agent in it to keep paint from cracking in low speed impacts, etc. The paint/clear on that B pillar could absolutely be "soft" which would lead to easier scratching, so it makes sense that you'd want to be less aggressive in your correction process here....and you're right about plastic holding the heat. Sheet metal disperses it much easier. Some clears are "hard" especially ones for industrial applications like IMRON. They're durable and difficult to scratch. Also more difficult to paint correct. BTW, RUPES has 3", 2" and 1" polishers with much smaller throws too but looks like your polisher works just fine for this application.
Hi Scott, I enjoy all your videos that I watched. They are very informative. Can you tell me what speed did you set your DA to after you spread the product at speed 2? Did you set it to speed 6? Thank you.
With most DA's you don't need to go over speed 4.
this is what i have been doing for these. good thing to know it wasnt the wrong way lol
Found your channel while looking for something else. Cant remember what. Lol. But you have been very informative to me. Not trying to get onto detailing or anything just want to get better results on my own car. Ive packed in alot of information in a short time and look forward to using it. Thanks. Who knows. I might get into detailing if i can get my junk looking good. Thanks again and keep doin you man. Looks like your results are awesome
Scott, I have a Camry, white two-coat system Crystal (Pearl) White, Japan-made model, 2004. My B-Pillar trim is matte black, not gloss. What do I use for a non-gloss B-Pillar?
Also, been wanting to ask you....how do you wash a delicate two-coat Pearl Crystal White paint car? I'm planning to detail it for the first time in its life (and mine), a total newbie here, just bought a Shurhold 3500 DA after seeing one of your videos, and am so so confused as to what pads to use. The Crystal White is a soft pain, so I've been told. I believe it's the same paint as the Lexus E300 Crystal White. Obviously after 16 yrs of its life, being corrected for the first time by a DA, should I use a mild or heavy cutting pad? And which brand? Help please.
Just a thought... Would it be better to install a clear paint protection film after polishing? It would seem like a good idea but I'm not sure if that is possible
Hey Scott, Don't bother about talking too much. there is a big difference between babbling rubbish and knowing what your talking about. you are passionate about your trade, AND BELIEVE what you are saying"well done mate" Here in Australia it gets awfully hot and that causes these areas to break down and go flaky. Personally I encourage people to put 3M paint protection film on, but you have opened another avenue. Thanks for your honesty and integrity. I hope you get to read this God bless you bro Ralph (Chuckiein oz).
Hi Scott, another great video. Super tips about a topic that is practically taboo. Everybody notices this trim and hates it for the reasons you say -- not durable in a vulnerable area! However, my car needs a slight variation on this. My saab convertible has a matt-black windshield frame (about 2.5 inches wide all around) with of course rubber between it and the glass. After 20 years of loyal service the matt-black metal frame is blemished -- still in tact, no flaking clear coat, but the it's faded and smudged with various windshield treatments, convertible top sealants, finger oil, etc. I always thought a small, simple polisher (no eccentric motion) would be best. And now you've confirmed that. Thank you. The plan is to polish it as you demonstrated, but NOT with a fine polish that has fillers and sealants. Why? Because the windshield frame is hard metal and does not get touched in the frequency of door frames, whereas you're advice for door frames makes absolute perfect sense (actually, it'S super intelligent advice that only a real pro would know). Then, if my windshield frame looks like the matt clear coat is as thin as the skin on my teeth after a careful, light polish, while it's already taped off, I'll clean it with alcohol and give it three light coats of matt clear K2 top coat. The questions is, should or can one polish or "finish fine sand" matt clear coat when done? What do you do with matt clear coat? Leave it? Wet sand it with 2000 grit? Let us know! Thanks again for the great video and God bless !
Hey scott thank you for this video. I have a polisher and pads on the way and cant wait to get to work on my car!
I'm guessing I could use the Mcguiars M205 polish that I already have for this purpose or should I get HE Speed? After your Mercedes vid I picked up 105 and 205. Haven't used either yet but I'm gearing up!
About every 6 months, when I wax my car, I just use meguiars ultimate polish on them by hand, gently applying the product, and follow with ultimate paste wax. They look like new afterwards. I do try to not touch them to close the doors with them, and always am gentle when washing them .
If you ever visit Ireland Sir for gods sakes Don't kiss the Blarney Stone.
You already have the gift of gab.
Your vids have helped me a lot. Thanks Man.
It didn’t seem like a long video. I was locked in from the start. Very informative.
Scott, you can be my parent any day of the week, I lost my dad when I was just 16. I learned a lot from him, but just not enough. That tape looks like blue painters tape. Do you get the automotive kind at parts stores? Also, on the harbor freight, could you demo how to replace brushes, head grease, & bearings. Thank you . You are a walking book of knowledge when it comes to detailing.
Some dealerships are starting to put a camo pattern, carbon fibre type wrap on the pillars which doesn't mark or scratch when touched...and lasts a long time. I must say, it also looks great on the vehicle pillars and also comes in different color tones.
Good thing people pay you per car and not per hour
I was thinking the same thing. "I don't want to ramble". 16 min later
My 08 Escape's B pillar covers have a gloss plastic coating over aluminum. About half of it has peeled off. They sell adhesive backed covers in either 304 Stainless or gloss black that last about 10 years. I'm going that route... wish me luck! I'll keep you updated.
Outstanding as usual
Thanks so much.
love to watch you Scott very informative just what i was looking to correct. Couldnt you put that clear plastic protection over them after you get them perfect like you want.i have 2016 f150 no kids just me and i cant keep it looking good.keep up the great vids.
Hey Scott, you mentioned not to let the pad touch the tape, but in the video it looked like you were going over it the whole time. Was it not touching the tape because the panel was slightly higher than the tape or did you mean to just be sure not to bear down on the tape with the edge of the pad at an angle? I only ask this because i plan on buying a polisher soon to do paint correction and this is a really scratched area on my truck as well so i will have to do it too.
😂 $65,000 suv and it’s got this issue…so funny!!!
You say they're just going to get scratched again, that's not true if you put a clear bra on them. I always put a clear bra on my vehicles on the b-pillar trim so it doesn't scratch
First thing I thought of.
Getting it done next month can't wait
Tried sonax perfect finish, I give them 10/10, will try HD in the future
Could you please add subtitles? There are people who don't speak English! Thanks
There are many videos on RUclips for your industry but I find myself migrating to yours because of your simple delivery and get the job done methods. You talk a little differently than people around here. Sometimes I find it hard to follow up on your product choices such as the yellow and thick white pads used in this video. Oh and is claybar, claybar or have you found a great buy or a great product? If you do not have the time to put links in the description, that ok, but please just jot down a few notes for us newbies to follow along a bit easier. Thanks for taking time from home to make such effective videos for us.
No kidding... I've got a squiggly little scratch on the B pillar of my '05 C240 due to my DA. Thank you!
Well explained Scott. Your soooooo right. Superb vid
Thank You!!!! For this !!! This is my battle
I just got a Griot’s G9 kit from autogeek, only 9mm of throw, and came with meguirs 205 ultra finishing polish, pads, etc. Would that polish in combination with the orange pad it comes with be sufficient for my swirled piano black b pillars or do I need a different pad and polish? Thanks, love your videos
Scott, you don't talk to much you just have a lot of information to give out and I appreciate your knowledge.. That "B" pillar is a pain in the ass, mine isn't scratched just finger prints just need to do what you said. Retrain myself from closing my door that way. Old habits are hard to break. I will work on that. Now my text is as long as your video.. Ha. Keep the great knowledgeable vids comming I watch and learn everyday from you Thank you.. Fucki the Haters, there out there with everything.. Your awesome Scott...
I always open the door when polishing B pillars. I don't like overlap and touch the other B pillar. Same goes to engine hood. Open and slightly lift up a bit and I put yoga block below so that I don't overlap the fender. Anyway great video sir.
Great idea. Thanks!
Good video! I recently had to glue some retainer clips that hold windshield trim piece panels in place and then had to tape them with masking tape, so the glue would cure. 2 days later, I was removing that tape, but for some reason it left some sticky/glue residue on A pillar and that black high gloss plastic trim, mentioned above. I didn't really see any dirt, so I tried to scrub/clean off that residue with alcohol pads and managed to scratch clear coat from the A pillar and also trim plastic. I took care of the car's paint with Maguiar's ScratchX 2.0 and it did pretty well. Do you think I can use this on the plastic trim as well? There are couple of quarter sized scrub marks. I don't have any tools, just applicator pad and ScratchX paste.
Hey Scott, what about a vinyl wrap for the B pillar trim? What are your thoughts on this? Thanks, great vids!
2006 to 2010 Honda Civic has vinyl wrap over the pillar. You can do that. It'll have a matted look which is what I like.
Just another do it yourselfer that is learning alot from your videos . I like to drive clean cars and enjoy the work to get them looking their best , to me it isn't work , I enjoy detailing . I'm a ♍ virgo , perfection is a pain at times . Keep up the good work and I look forward to hearing from you soon on the WWW 😎
thank you:)...i can ramble to much so please forgive me but i hope I'm helping:)...much love my friend
You’re hilarious Scott. And extremely professional and informative. God bless you bro, Jesus saves
Would I use this method and chemical to CLEAN what looks like a white polish or paint spill on the pillar? It looks like a dried up white streak of water.
Great video as usual Scott. Just found your page a few weeks ago. Im slowly catching up.
My 2012 ML350 has water spots on these panels. Actually, they are mostly on the panel behind the back window, so the C pillar I guess. It seems to be glossy painted plastic. How do you suggest I handle that? No scratches, just water marks.
Thoughts on maybe Meguiar's wash plus instead for a light polish? just thinking of more "handy" ways of getting similar results and staying away from tape issues. Or even just a hand applicator with m205 or boss creams?
Good question. I need to try it on mine.
I have a 2004 Lexus RX 330 There’s a piece of black trim kind a like the side trim that your polishing and it’s oxidized really bad can you help me how to treat that do I do the same steps like you’re doing here on these pillars or do I need to replace it unfortunately it’s really expensive piece and I don’t have the money for it Thank you Scott love the videos man
U talking about upper rear door, the black plastic above the door? I have same problem.
Another great vid! Scott, you must be making a little $ via RUclips to go with your auto correction business, way to go Scott! (? What speed are you using on the DA?
What about milky clear coat after a year in Arizona or for example in DFW … how to deal with that?
Could you not apply Clear coat or Ceramics after polishing B pillars.
Hi Scott, only just found your channel and LOVING it. I'm in Australia and was hoping you could recommend a Meguiar's product which could be used for polishing these gloss black trims. Thanks in advance....Greg
I've been waiting to try this until I thought about the procedure I want to use.
I wonder if the DA you are using here has similar specs to the 3" G. Garage DA, which I already have. Their site says the specs are: 240-watt, 2-amp motor, 5mm throw.
Scott,
Can HD Speed or Sonax Perfect Finish, be applied to the B Pillars by hand, instead of a machine ?
Can CGs VRP or a chemical plastic restorer, be used to correct, maintain and protect B pillars ?
Love your videos ! Thank you
Scott cant you use some type of coating that will protect the B pillar once you have corrected it? Armour Shield or something like that?
You can have a clear bra installed over them. It's s clear film that's installed like tint or vinyl. It's very durable stuff.
@@boostedbliss07MK5 ThANK yOU ..GREAT IDEA...
@@jlmagana you are welcome. I just polished my B pillars with Griot's correcting creme and a meguiars microfiber. Then did a polish with some meguiars polish I had. Came out great. Then I had them clear bra protected. With the headlights and rear bumper load edge. Thinking of doing the hood next.
@@boostedbliss07MK5 great idea my friend. THANK YOU VERY VERY MUCH....
Thats my next move!!! GREAT.
Why codent we just polish it by hand with buff pad / microfiber rag or whatever?
Did you need any special attachments or do any modification on order to use a 3" pad?
3 inch back plate
it looks like you were hitting the the tape on the first few passes. were you angling the pad so it wasn't touching the tape?
Os there any product you would recommend from auto zone? I have a brand new c63s gloss black mirror housing and trim. First time washing it left water spots on them so i used meguaris ultimate compound to remove it. But it left swirl marks and hazey looking. 😓
Man I thought I was the only one with the adhesive catching the pad, doesn’t matter whether you use a 3 inch or an ibrid nano you have to get close to the edges that will catch the adhesive, total nightmare
How many times can you typically correct the pillars?
The problem with the video is the pillar is already is decent shape to begin with. It be better to use one needing TLC rather than something that is pretty much near "perfection" to begin with.
I just bought a new car and this piece in your video is faded bad what can i do?
Hmmmmm. I have what looks like run marks on my 2012 crv pillars. Like they used a harsh car wash and over time wore some gloss off or something. Not sure what to do with it.
Great video Scott
wouldn't that be a good spot to just do it by hand?
How would you go about getting scratches out of b pillars like these ones right here? I have some good scratches on my Mercedes b pillar trim on the passenger side
How about sensitive clear coat no matter what you call it I'm sure you're going to show us how to take care of it appreciate the vids
Scott, is there any way to "keep" the A/B/C black pillars from scratching when washing?
Also I just realized what you were saying; amazingly enough I was trying to use my Makita DA with a 5 inch pad earlier on my A pillar, and I was getting these really small micro scratches on the pillar. I was wondering if it was my pad (lake country) or if it was my polish. Then I switched to my 3 inch griots with the same exact pad and polish (just in 3 inch form), and a few passes and the pillar was perfect.
AMMO NYC recommends 3M film.
you say to avoid DA buffers yet you used a Harbor Freight DA ~ aren't you meaning to say to avoid the use of larger long throw size pads in a DA and be sure to use a smaller finishing buffer accessory in the 3-inch size backing plate & pad range ?
Scott i have two Honda’s the pillars are coated in some kind of black rubber do you know any thing about this stuff
How do u do this if this is mat black with one light scratch.
It’s ok to put a 3” backing plate on a machine that came with a 6 “ plate?
Please lets us know what 3inch backing plate are you using to fit the hf da polisher.
Could you put a ceramic coating on it to prevent minor scratches?
Thank you for the video!
Great video...btw.The HF Chicago Electric D.A. is a 8mm😉..(both models; 68262 & 69947)
Hey Scott love your videos. I have a question: Can you do a ceramic coating on that trim to help prevent future scratches after the correction?
The pillars on my car are stained... looks like it got sprayed with something😫
I thinking about buying some new pillars and wrapping em before I install em.
I'm going to try not to touch the tape.
Touches the tape immediately when applying the polish to the pillar.
Excellent video!!!
I'm going to have to bring my car to you some time. I love detailing and I'm learning how to do paint correction on my car but it's black and I'm not getting the results I want.
After the polish, should be hand waxed w/ a heavy duty wax to seal it in.
How for BMW Shadowline anodized aluminum B pillars?
Ok ok Lets get to the instructions!
Sorry but this is about 5 minutes of information in a 20 minute video. Long winded doesn’t begin to describe clip.
I have a problems with my b pillars and they need to be buffed really bad
Thanks scot for the video
is Plexus plastic polish ok to use on gloss black B pillars?
what backing plate and brand of pad is he using here?
Thank you very much for the video.