It’s videos like this that this NEW GENERATION will never get the opportunity to absorb where we came from and the care it took to BUILD back then. I JUST stumbled across your videos/channel. I will be watching a lot more. I learned a lot in this simple video and it reminded me of when I was a kid and my Dad was teaching me to work on his Hot Rod. Wow how much this took me back. Thank you 🙏 and u have a subscriber here now
I’m only 21 and this video is extremely handy for me. But yes most of my generation isn’t 350 swapping things. Myself my 2wd housing was cracked and spewing its brains out. And now I’m installing this adapter to eliminate the oil cooler and my oil leak. My carb 350 swapped s10 with a turbo 350 trans is about done now. With the help of his video
The guy in another video showing how to install this adapter said that you MUST have the check valve CLOSEST to the engine side of the oil filter area. He ALSO used the gasket. Now...in 1983 when I rebuilt my 283 small block that was out of a 1965 Chevy pick up truck, I used one of these adaptors without a gasket. I don't remember which way I had the check valve oriented. I had hardly any oil pressure getting up to the lifter gallery. In fact when I hooked up an oil pressure gauge to the lifter gallery test port there was ZERO oil pressure ! The oil pressure reading at the oil pressure port on the lower driver's side of the engine read 25 lbs of oil pressure. Being a freshly rebuilt engine with ALL new bearings - all new EVERYTHING... I was NEVER able to figure out what the hell I did WRONG that resulted in such bad oil pressure. The pick up tube DIDN'T fall off of the oil pump either. I know that for a fact. I even changed the oil pump THREE times....the third oil pump I put in was a CORVETTE high volume oil pump and THAT didn't make a difference at all. What did I do wrong ? This and the Kennedy assassination are the GREATEST MYSTERIES of my LIFE.
Nice going. I put mine in the same way minus the lock tite. Never had in 1973 ( year of camaro I'm rebuilding.) If they came loose they have no where to go anyways with the filter right there.
Use Loctite 243 it is the upgraded oil tolerant version of the old 242. Also, thread lockers have a shelf life. Always clean the internal and external threads free of oil and foreign debris, apply the thread locker to both the internal and external threads and run faster back-n-forth a couple times to properly distribute the locker...then torque.
I just actually picked up the GM OE gasket for the first time in 20 years. It's a metal core and gasket material is fused to it. I don't see how gasket material can end up in the filter now that I see the design.
@@Milkmans_Son Part of the stock style adaptor has a bypass for when the pressure gets to high to bypass the oil filter. This works for two things, makes sure you have proper flow at high RPMs and helps keep the pressure from getting high. You may never know if you have a problem, but I promise the adaptor will leak oil past and that oil will not be filtered. If you change your oil on time and use a good quality oil 99% you will not have an issue as some of the chemicals in the oil will suspend the partials etc. When you pull bearings and notice scoring, it generally from oil not being filtered properly (and more than likely a part is failing or not in spec). Side note: Pumps (oil in this case) only create flow and the systems lines and filter create pressure, so any hydraulic system that leaks, even internally) may not operate properly.
@@Nowayjose-z2r Explain what your getting at with this one ? Are you talking about the position of the adapter base on his video or using or not using the gasket between the adapter and the block ? Was curious because im doing this oil cooler delete mod and Was going too switch the direction of the adapter for more oil flow . Also not using a gasket as most don’t . Appreciate the insight in understanding what you are saying here Thanks
I just bought one of these OEM adaptors to install on my '57 283. I presently have an aftermarket Mr.Gasket adaptor on it that utilizes a FORD oil filter. My friend who is a die hard Chevy guy says this OEM one won't work on my '57 283. My friend also agrees with the majority on NOT using a gasket between the adaptor & block......Your thoughts??
In my case, I installed an oil filter relocation adapter - mainly because my headers are wrapped [I really don't need the mess or the hassle]. I use the larger System 1 filter, and had such nice pressure, I changed from 10w-40 to 5w-30, but most of that was clearance driven. Not tight, but definitely street.
So I’m late to the discussion but on the topic of whether you use a gasket there or not, I was taught that if there’s one there when you remove it, then you add one when you replace it. Otherwise no gasket is needed if it didn’t already have it.
I’m about to do this oil cooler delete on my 98 c1500 pickup and Not use a gasket . Too the best of my knowledge after reading everything it’s said over and over by actual people here and on forums who have done the oil cooler delete or simply changed the oil adapter and driven for 1000s of miles that the GM# gasket for the Melling mfa350 adapter is not needed between the adapter and the Engine block. Even Melling says the same. The block and adapter are both machined surfaces so it seals with 120inch pounds on the torque wrench
@@Chevro91 I can’t imagine it would leak either and it would be within the gasket of the oil filter anyways. It’s not hard to add it later if it does. But idk how’d you know unless you were having oil pressure problems. Can always use a light rub of oil resistant sealant. It wouldn’t be as thick as a gasket and may fill in any imperfections.🤷🏼♂️
@@odinslockllc edit i now have partially confirmed it’s 7.5 ft lbs otherwise known as 96 inch lbs 😀. I believe the gasket is not needed for sure … but I recant my source who said it’s 120inch lbs of torque If you can find them specs let me know
You've put the bypass the other way towards outside. Almost all that I've read and videos I've seen have stated the bypass should be towards the inside and with no gasket. As for me, what factory did was the correct way.
My question sir is do all the Blocks have to 2 tapped holes to mount it to the Block??? I got one for my Boat but at the moment engine still in boat so I dont know if my block has the 2 tapped holes for the insert Thanks.
Hi where is the difference where the opening of the bypass points ..? Is a seal generally necessary? Have too little oil pressure in my 383 Iroc Camaro ... cold ok ... warm a disaster. Greeting from Germany
I had the SAME problem back in 1983. I'm DYING to know the REASON for the low ( actually no oil pressure ) pressure. The guy in another video showing how to install this adapter said that you MUST have the check valve CLOSEST to the engine side of the oil filter area. He ALSO used the gasket. Now...in 1983 when I rebuilt my 283 small block that was out of a 1965 Chevy pick up truck, I used one of these adaptors without a gasket. I don't remember which way I had the check valve oriented. I had hardly any oil pressure getting up to the lifter gallery. In fact when I hooked up an oil pressure gauge to the lifter gallery test port there was ZERO oil pressure ! The oil pressure reading at the oil pressure port on the lower driver's side of the engine read 25 lbs of oil pressure. Being a freshly rebuilt engine with ALL new bearings - all new EVERYTHING... I was NEVER able to figure out what the hell I did WRONG that resulted in such bad oil pressure. The pick up tube DIDN'T fall off of the oil pump either. I know that for a fact. I even changed the oil pump THREE times....the third oil pump I put in was a CORVETTE high volume oil pump and THAT didn't make a difference at all. What did I do wrong ? This and the Kennedy assassination are the GREATEST MYSTERIES of my LIFE.
Hello basically i have a new 383,motor.... Everything was renewed, except for the block itself, which was of course drilled to 0.30 oversize. Everything was carefully assembled, pistons, connecting rods, crankshaft, camshaft, oil pump. The cylinder heads are the aluminum L98 from the 5.7 TPI Corvette. Whereby cylinder heads cannot have any influence on the oil pressure. Only this 383 loses its oil pressure the warmer it gets. The oil pressure isn't quite at zero but you can hear the hydraulics ticking when idling. If you give it a little gas, the ticking is over. The instrument gauges then also go up a bit. I have already bought an HP oil pump. Unfortunately, the engine of the IROC Camaro has to be removed or raised very high. The K-Member runs 5 mm under the oil pan. This is crap. I suspect the oil pump is bad. A mystery for me too. I'll get to work this year. That's why the Camaro has been in my garage for 5 years. Greeting from Germany
I’m a no gasket guy. Spin mine the way you did. That 7.5 is news to me tho lol. I always loctight but I’d say I’m triple that foot pounds lol. I love those old small block Chevys tho. Glad I was fortunate to grow up working on these
@@ThrottleStopRacing which ac Delco filter do you use? I have a 350 SBC. My Duramax uses the pf2232 oil filter and that seems to fit pretty well but I'm not sure if it's the proper filter (too big?). The stock filter number pf52e is entirely too small.
@@ThrottleStopRacing thanks. I have a 327 from a 1967 chev, it has an adapter on it. Google kept giving me the canister part number. Got it, thanks. Great Info
The REALLY OLD Chevy Small Block engines had an oil filter that was a CANISTER that had a LONG BOLT that ran through it with a small seal that went under the bolt head. I THINK ( I can't remember ) there was also a seal on the other end of the canister. You would take the canister off and replace the ELEMENT ONLY on the inside of the canister. The more modern Chevy Small Block Engine design had a threaded center pipe nipple that an oil filter would just screw on. The modern oil filters have a square cut gasket around their outer edge and corresponding threads in the center. the ADAPTOR is used to convert a very old small block to be able to use a modern day filter. It seems like a great idea but I didn't have any oil pressure after rebuilding my 1965 Chevy 283 engine that was out of a 1965 pick up truck. I've always suspected that it was the oil filter adaptor that caused the problem but I never confirmed that as the cause. I'm dying to know.
@@martinlutherbling424 I have one of these old style cannister filters. I replaced the filter recently and it wasn’t bad. Are there any disadvantages to sticking with it? I guess the seal on top “could” slip off while the canister is being screwed in?
Oil flow results tend to be higher lbs after doing the Oil cooler delete mod because the lines the flow of the oil cooler lines the fact it goes in and out of a radiator and the flow over all reduces restricts pressure in anyone’s honest opinion. The lines are useless unless one is Towing a lot or you just prefer too cool oil somewhat.
Pretty sure the actual oem torque specs for any 350 Chevy oil filter adapter is 120 inch lbs if it makes a difference for Anyone here wanting factual specs. Beats snapping the bolts off in the block
It’s videos like this that this NEW GENERATION will never get the opportunity to absorb where we came from and the care it took to BUILD back then. I JUST stumbled across your videos/channel. I will be watching a lot more. I learned a lot in this simple video and it reminded me of when I was a kid and my Dad was teaching me to work on his Hot Rod. Wow how much this took me back. Thank you 🙏 and u have a subscriber here now
Thank you for the time you took to write your comment. It makes making these videos a pleasure.
I’m only 21 and this video is extremely handy for me. But yes most of my generation isn’t 350 swapping things. Myself my 2wd housing was cracked and spewing its brains out. And now I’m installing this adapter to eliminate the oil cooler and my oil leak. My carb 350 swapped s10 with a turbo 350 trans is about done now. With the help of his video
@@Andrewstrauser I very happy that the video was of help to you. Keep turning wrenches.
Perfect! I trust old school mechanics all day everyday! Thank you sir!🙏
Thank you for watching.
Very helpful as i assemble a sbc for first time. Good video thanks
Thank you
The guy in another video showing how to install this adapter said that you MUST have the check valve CLOSEST to the engine side of the oil filter area. He ALSO used the gasket. Now...in 1983 when I rebuilt my 283 small block that was out of a 1965 Chevy pick up truck, I used one of these adaptors without a gasket. I don't remember which way I had the check valve oriented. I had hardly any oil pressure getting up to the lifter gallery. In fact when I hooked up an oil pressure gauge to the lifter gallery test port there was ZERO oil pressure ! The oil pressure reading at the oil pressure port on the lower driver's side of the engine read 25 lbs of oil pressure. Being a freshly rebuilt engine with ALL new bearings - all new EVERYTHING... I was NEVER able to figure out what the hell I did WRONG that resulted in such bad oil pressure. The pick up tube DIDN'T fall off of the oil pump either. I know that for a fact. I even changed the oil pump THREE times....the third oil pump I put in was a CORVETTE high volume oil pump and THAT didn't make a difference at all. What did I do wrong ? This and the Kennedy assassination are the GREATEST MYSTERIES of my LIFE.
Wow, oil pressure is good on the 383.
Nice going. I put mine in the same way minus the lock tite. Never had in 1973 ( year of camaro I'm rebuilding.) If they came loose they have no where to go anyways with the filter right there.
Good deal, and good luck.
Been working on these for 50+ years now and just learned something new. Cool deal.
Same here...I never knew there was a Gasket, and I always put the Adapter in like it came out, never thought about reversing it for better oil flow.
Use Loctite 243 it is the upgraded oil tolerant version of the old 242. Also, thread lockers have a shelf life. Always clean the internal and external threads free of oil and foreign debris, apply the thread locker to both the internal and external threads and run faster back-n-forth a couple times to properly distribute the locker...then torque.
Thank you for getting right to the point
What, you do not want a long introduction?
File the back of the adapter flat. You will be amazed how lumpy they are. No gasket.
I just actually picked up the GM OE gasket for the first time in 20 years. It's a metal core and gasket material is fused to it. I don't see how gasket material can end up in the filter now that I see the design.
Good piece of information to file away
@@ThrottleStopRacing My man! But in reality I have never had a issue with or without so it's kinda like.🤷♂️😆
@@TPVPRO How would you know if you're having an issue?
@@Milkmans_Son Part of the stock style adaptor has a bypass for when the pressure gets to high to bypass the oil filter. This works for two things, makes sure you have proper flow at high RPMs and helps keep the pressure from getting high. You may never know if you have a problem, but I promise the adaptor will leak oil past and that oil will not be filtered. If you change your oil on time and use a good quality oil 99% you will not have an issue as some of the chemicals in the oil will suspend the partials etc.
When you pull bearings and notice scoring, it generally from oil not being filtered properly (and more than likely a part is failing or not in spec).
Side note: Pumps (oil in this case) only create flow and the systems lines and filter create pressure, so any hydraulic system that leaks, even internally) may not operate properly.
@@Nowayjose-z2r Explain what your getting at with this one ? Are you talking about the position of the adapter base on his video or using or not using the gasket between the adapter and the block ?
Was curious because im doing this oil cooler delete mod and Was going too switch the direction of the adapter for more oil flow . Also not using a gasket as most don’t .
Appreciate the insight in understanding what you are saying here
Thanks
good stuff that's the way i install all my oil filter adapters on sbc
Thank you very much.
I just bought one of these OEM adaptors to install on my '57 283. I presently have an aftermarket Mr.Gasket adaptor on it that utilizes a FORD oil filter. My friend who is a die hard Chevy guy says this OEM one won't work on my '57 283. My friend also agrees with the majority on NOT using a gasket between the adaptor & block......Your thoughts??
In my case, I installed an oil filter relocation adapter - mainly because my headers are wrapped [I really don't need the mess or the hassle]. I use the larger System 1 filter, and had such nice pressure, I changed from 10w-40 to 5w-30, but most of that was clearance driven. Not tight, but definitely street.
I do not think there is a better filter system then System 1
So I’m late to the discussion but on the topic of whether you use a gasket there or not, I was taught that if there’s one there when you remove it, then you add one when you replace it. Otherwise no gasket is needed if it didn’t already have it.
I’m about to do this oil cooler delete on my 98 c1500 pickup and Not use a gasket . Too the best of my knowledge after reading everything it’s said over and over by actual people here and on forums who have done the oil cooler delete or simply changed the oil adapter and driven for 1000s of miles that the
GM# gasket for the Melling mfa350 adapter is not needed between the adapter and the Engine block. Even Melling says the same. The block and adapter are both machined surfaces so it seals with 120inch pounds on the torque wrench
@@Chevro91 I can’t imagine it would leak either and it would be within the gasket of the oil filter anyways. It’s not hard to add it later if it does. But idk how’d you know unless you were having oil pressure problems. Can always use a light rub of oil resistant sealant. It wouldn’t be as thick as a gasket and may fill in any imperfections.🤷🏼♂️
@@odinslockllc edit i now have partially confirmed it’s 7.5 ft lbs otherwise known as 96 inch lbs 😀. I believe the gasket is not needed for sure … but I recant my source who said it’s 120inch lbs of torque
If you can find them specs let me know
@@Chevro91 I’ll look tomorrow
I agree.
Keep up the good work.
Thanks, will do!
Let that gasket come apart and cost you a engine . I never use one .
You've put the bypass the other way towards outside. Almost all that I've read and videos I've seen have stated the bypass should be towards the inside and with no gasket. As for me, what factory did was the correct way.
WE have had no problems, that is what is great about this hobby, you can do it anyway you want and be correct. Thanks for the comment.
My question sir is do all the Blocks have to 2 tapped holes to mount it to the Block??? I got one for my Boat but at the moment engine still in boat so I dont know if my block has the 2 tapped holes for the insert Thanks.
I really do not know, use your phone and take a picture is all I can suggest. Working in the bilge is always close quarters.
Hi
where is the difference where the opening of the bypass points ..?
Is a seal generally necessary?
Have too little oil pressure in my 383 Iroc Camaro ... cold ok ... warm a disaster.
Greeting from Germany
I had the SAME problem back in 1983. I'm DYING to know the REASON for the low ( actually no oil pressure ) pressure.
The guy in another video showing how to install this adapter said that you MUST have the check valve CLOSEST to the engine side of the oil filter area. He ALSO used the gasket. Now...in 1983 when I rebuilt my 283 small block that was out of a 1965 Chevy pick up truck, I used one of these adaptors without a gasket. I don't remember which way I had the check valve oriented. I had hardly any oil pressure getting up to the lifter gallery. In fact when I hooked up an oil pressure gauge to the lifter gallery test port there was ZERO oil pressure ! The oil pressure reading at the oil pressure port on the lower driver's side of the engine read 25 lbs of oil pressure. Being a freshly rebuilt engine with ALL new bearings - all new EVERYTHING... I was NEVER able to figure out what the hell I did WRONG that resulted in such bad oil pressure. The pick up tube DIDN'T fall off of the oil pump either. I know that for a fact. I even changed the oil pump THREE times....the third oil pump I put in was a CORVETTE high volume oil pump and THAT didn't make a difference at all. What did I do wrong ? This and the Kennedy assassination are the GREATEST MYSTERIES of my LIFE.
Hello
basically i have a new 383,motor....
Everything was renewed, except for the block itself, which was of course drilled to 0.30 oversize.
Everything was carefully assembled, pistons, connecting rods, crankshaft, camshaft, oil pump.
The cylinder heads are the aluminum L98 from the 5.7 TPI Corvette.
Whereby cylinder heads cannot have any influence on the oil pressure.
Only this 383 loses its oil pressure the warmer it gets.
The oil pressure isn't quite at zero but you can hear the hydraulics ticking when idling. If you give it a little gas, the ticking is over.
The instrument gauges then also go up a bit.
I have already bought an HP oil pump.
Unfortunately, the engine of the IROC Camaro has to be removed or raised very high. The K-Member runs 5 mm under the oil pan. This is crap.
I suspect the oil pump is bad.
A mystery for me too.
I'll get to work this year.
That's why the Camaro has been in my garage for 5 years.
Greeting from Germany
Thanks, very helpful!
Funny, the newer SBC felpro gasket sets for one piece rear main has the gasket but the two piece rear do not.
Thanks for the input
I’m a no gasket guy. Spin mine the way you did. That 7.5 is news to me tho lol. I always loctight but I’d say I’m triple that foot pounds lol.
I love those old small block Chevys tho. Glad I was fortunate to grow up working on these
Happy you liked the video, thanks for the comment.
After doing that what kind of oil filter do you use for it. I have a 283 small block
You can use any filter that worked before, I use a/c delco
@@ThrottleStopRacing which ac Delco filter do you use? I have a 350 SBC. My Duramax uses the pf2232 oil filter and that seems to fit pretty well but I'm not sure if it's the proper filter (too big?). The stock filter number pf52e is entirely too small.
Good info
What type oil pan is that I need one like it . Got a part number on that? I bought two that were too big over my crank.
It is the stock pan that came off the engine when ii was taken apart. I am no help with a part number
My factory manual says it's 18 Lbs.
Whats the oil filter part number to use with it on a 283 small block?
Man I wish I could tell you, but I do not know.
What oil filter will fit on the adapter, part number?
Thank you
Jose
Sorry it took so long, currently there is a STP S5 on the adapter.
@@ThrottleStopRacing thanks. I have a 327 from a 1967 chev, it has an adapter on it. Google kept giving me the canister part number. Got it, thanks. Great Info
What filter do you rec to use with that adapter?
AC Delco
I am knew to this oil filter adapter if you can use the same oil filters as before what is the adapter for?
The REALLY OLD Chevy Small Block engines had an oil filter that was a CANISTER that had a LONG BOLT that ran through it with a small seal that went under the bolt head. I THINK ( I can't remember ) there was also a seal on the other end of the canister. You would take the canister off and replace the ELEMENT ONLY on the inside of the canister. The more modern Chevy Small Block Engine design had a threaded center pipe nipple that an oil filter would just screw on. The modern oil filters have a square cut gasket around their outer edge and corresponding threads in the center. the ADAPTOR is used to convert a very old small block to be able to use a modern day filter. It seems like a great idea but I didn't have any oil pressure after rebuilding my 1965 Chevy 283 engine that was out of a 1965 pick up truck. I've always suspected that it was the oil filter adaptor that caused the problem but I never confirmed that as the cause. I'm dying to know.
@@martinlutherbling424 I have one of these old style cannister filters. I replaced the filter recently and it wasn’t bad. Are there any disadvantages to sticking with it? I guess the seal on top “could” slip off while the canister is being screwed in?
It increases oil pressure?
Increases oil flow
Oil flow results tend to be higher lbs after doing the Oil cooler delete mod because the lines the flow of the oil cooler lines the fact it goes in and out of a radiator and the flow over all reduces restricts pressure in anyone’s honest opinion. The lines are useless unless one is Towing a lot or you just prefer too cool oil somewhat.
7.5 foot lbs??? Hell go 8 who the hell owns a torque wrench that will go half lbs?
I do, but agree
Pretty sure the actual oem torque specs for any 350 Chevy oil filter adapter is 120 inch lbs if it makes a difference for Anyone here wanting factual specs. Beats snapping the bolts off in the block
120 in lbs = 10 ft lbs
I was thinking idk if im going to use lock tight on mine but 7fp. man i may use red
Red lock-tight does not like vibrations.
love ur vids
Thank you.