Very effective video. FELPRO's instructions (actually included in the instruction sheet) are to put RTV across the bridge of the entire front and rear seal area on block-side only. They said that in intensive testing, this was a significantly important factor to preventing leaks.
I installed this gasket on my small block, even did it upside down on the stand, did the rtv in the corners and guess what’s leaking? The front and rear valleys! I have my tranny out to replace it, and discovered that the rear main and the valleys are leaking!
I replaced my rear main seal in March and was deathly afraid I’d have another leak. Used this same gasket in hopes to have the first 350 in the history of man to not leak oil. So far, so good!
If you really want no leaks ever, run a Vac pump on the crank case. If there's a hole in the gasket or seal, oil won't be dripping out, but air will be sucked in, instead. Pricey tho.....
YOU USED THE WRONG GASKET!!! There are two different gaskets. You needed OS34509T or 1885. This part # has a thin front seal (1/4") for pre-1975 OEM pans. GM went to the thick seal (3/8") in 1975. To avoid a 3rd part # they just added a passenger side dipstick to the thick front seal gasket in 1978. Your dipstick being on the driver side along with the obvious gap between the pan and the block suggests pre 1975 oil pan requiring the thin front seal.
I love these one piece gaskets, but you have a decision to make in most cases. You see, a gen1 stock cork rail gasket is 0.090" thick, but these are 0.140". What this means is their "thin" front pan seal portion may or may not get much of a crush - it's going to be close. It matches the thickness of orginal stock front seal bang on, but... you might not get close enough to enjoy that because rail thickness stops you out. In my case, I discovered this with a pan bought in 1994 - I wound up switching from the "thin" to the "thick".
Thanks for the video and instruction. Greatly appreciated. I see that you apply some RTV at the 90 degree joint on the outside pan side of the gasket. Fel-Pro's recommendation is on the block side only. What has been your experience with this since they also say that RTV where it should not be gets in the way and causes leaks? I appreciate your experience since their way has failed once already and here I am with a second gasket and $50 the poorer. The time and effort of getting under the car is more costly. Thanks very much.
@@brianjohn7917 doing this now, have pulled the engine 2x now and $80 in the hole with 2 of their gaskets. both leak like hell in the front near the timing cover
@@tylerhunt9129 I tried it 3 times (thick without sealant except where recommended, thin without sealant and thin with sealant everywhere on both sides). I also have a leak dead center between the timing cover and pan. Did you figure out an alternative solution?
I’m thinking of using this 1 piece seal, will I still have to install the thick rubber gasket that comes with the new timing chain cover set or will this felpro serve as a gasket for my timing cover? Thanks in advance
I bought the same gasket from Fel Pro, it’s not a perma dry plus rather just a perma dry, but it didn’t have any bolts included. Does that mean I can re use the bolts?
Anyone know the oil pan type used here I need one like this ? The one I have is too big around the crank. Please if anyone knows of a part number thanks!
Then you used soft junk bolts. 12 ft lbs is not a lot, and it is the correct torque as per the manual for the oil pan. Use grade 5 as a minimum on engine applications, grade 8 is even better.
@@Rodeshion The engine that I put this on was a junk yard acquisition. I had to try several gaskets to find the right one. I'm sorry but I cannot answer your question. Thank though for your inquiry.
Very effective video. FELPRO's instructions (actually included in the instruction sheet) are to put RTV across the bridge of the entire front and rear seal area on block-side only. They said that in intensive testing, this was a significantly important factor to preventing leaks.
You are apparently referring to the intake manifold gasket
@@freemanfornow264 No, it's the oil pan gasket. It's in the instructions.
@@MOMENTSbyRonSonedecker wow I have yet to see or hear thar except with intake gaskets
I installed this gasket on my small block, even did it upside down on the stand, did the rtv in the corners and guess what’s leaking? The front and rear valleys!
I have my tranny out to replace it, and discovered that the rear main and the valleys are leaking!
Thank you. Enjoyed your video. I’m fixing to install this gasket on a 81 Chevy c20. Your video answered several questions.
Just put the crank back in my 96 Vortec tonight. Doing the rest of reassembly tomorrow. Thanks for the video!
nice to have it all out and accessible on that one. looks like you got a good seal
Yes it was, isn't there always a leak you have to go back an fix?
I replaced my rear main seal in March and was deathly afraid I’d have another leak. Used this same gasket in hopes to have the first 350 in the history of man to not leak oil.
So far, so good!
Good deal!
If you really want no leaks ever, run a Vac pump on the crank case. If there's a hole in the gasket or seal, oil won't be dripping out, but air will be sucked in, instead. Pricey tho.....
YOU USED THE WRONG GASKET!!! There are two different gaskets. You needed OS34509T or 1885. This part # has a thin front seal (1/4") for pre-1975 OEM pans. GM went to the thick seal (3/8") in 1975. To avoid a 3rd part # they just added a passenger side dipstick to the thick front seal gasket in 1978.
Your dipstick being on the driver side along with the obvious gap between the pan and the block suggests pre 1975 oil pan requiring the thin front seal.
you may have just saved my build lol 🤘
Not necessarily, depends on your oil pan. Most aftermarket pans are the thick seal. I have a pre 75 block that uses the thick front seal.
Thanks for doing this video. Very well done and helpful!
I'm happy it was helpful.
Nice but you put the silicon on the wrong side I am afraid
Used one on my boat they work good
I love these one piece gaskets, but you have a decision to make in most cases. You see, a gen1 stock cork rail gasket is 0.090" thick, but these are 0.140". What this means is their "thin" front pan seal portion may or may not get much of a crush - it's going to be close. It matches the thickness of orginal stock front seal bang on, but... you might not get close enough to enjoy that because rail thickness stops you out. In my case, I discovered this with a pan bought in 1994 - I wound up switching from the "thin" to the "thick".
Sure hope I do not have any leaks.
well done, really enjoyed video!
I am doing great thank you for asking
Thankyou needed torque spec Awesome
I'm glad the video helped!
I’ve got one that’s been laying around for 15 years 🤣
Thanks for the video and instruction. Greatly appreciated. I see that you apply some RTV at the 90 degree joint on the outside pan side of the gasket. Fel-Pro's recommendation is on the block side only. What has been your experience with this since they also say that RTV where it should not be gets in the way and causes leaks? I appreciate your experience since their way has failed once already and here I am with a second gasket and $50 the poorer. The time and effort of getting under the car is more costly. Thanks very much.
Just the way I have always done it.
@@ThrottleStopRacing I trust you. Thanks again for the videos. very informative and instructional. Best wishes.
@@brianjohn7917 doing this now, have pulled the engine 2x now and $80 in the hole with 2 of their gaskets. both leak like hell in the front near the timing cover
My new 383 with this gasket does the same. Getting ready to drop the pan
@@tylerhunt9129 I tried it 3 times (thick without sealant except where recommended, thin without sealant and thin with sealant everywhere on both sides). I also have a leak dead center between the timing cover and pan. Did you figure out an alternative solution?
My felpro gasket did not come with bolts, so I hope that it is not going to be a problem......but I ordered the snap-ups.
My gasket was thicker than stock and needed the longer bolts?
thanks for responding!!!!!
maybe mine isnt as thick, I can't remember what kind of gasket I used the last time I had the sump off.
@@carlodonnell146 That was my thought.
I’m thinking of using this 1 piece seal, will I still have to install the thick rubber gasket that comes with the new timing chain cover set or will this felpro serve as a gasket for my timing cover? Thanks in advance
It will serve as the gasket for your timing cover, no need to install the thick rubber gasket that came with your timing cover. J
Do you put thin coat oil on oil filter seal and threads?
Yes, the filter had already been on and I took it off to put the pan on.
I bought the same gasket from Fel Pro, it’s not a perma dry plus rather just a perma dry, but it didn’t have any bolts included. Does that mean I can re use the bolts?
They will will most likey be to short.
Mine didn’t come with the bolts :(
Would it benefit to put RTV on the entire gasket... both sides?
If your pan is straight, not bent at the bolt holes, then RTV is not needed.
I noticed there's no windage tray, do you not think it would be a benefit on a stock engine?
HP gained by adding a windage tray on a stock motor is overkill I think
will that gasket fit a 1995 638 block 350 chevy small block motor?
Sorry I do not know.
What brand gasket sealer do you use ?
Ultra Black Permatex
You put the oil filter on dry, not good.
wouldn't use any other oil pan gasket.
Thanks for the great tip!
What type oil u put in
Valvoline 10W-30 VR1 Racing & Classic Cars
Will this fit a Chevy 230 or 250 inline 6 ? Or do you know where I can find one or an oil pan? Greg video by the way
Sorry, I do not think it fits, I got this from Summit racing. Thanks.
Did it leak
Anyone know the oil pan type used here I need one like this ? The one I have is too big around the crank. Please if anyone knows of a part number thanks!
I wish I could help but this was the pan that came off the engine when disassembled.
What engine is this one.? 305, 317,or 350?
350 which is now a 383
12ft lbs snapped 3 bolts thanks
I'm sorry to hear that, that is what the instructions stated. I know it does not help your situation though.
Then you used soft junk bolts. 12 ft lbs is not a lot, and it is the correct torque as per the manual for the oil pan. Use grade 5 as a minimum on engine applications, grade 8 is even better.
ARP isn’t the same anymore
@@danielchavez1632 Sorry to hear that, I have liked ARP for a long time.
Is their a link for that gasket or anything?
Fel Pro gaskets are sold through your local parts store..
And weight
Valvoline 10W-30 VR1 Racing & Classic Cars
I broke one of these off inside my block today 😭😔😭 now my bolt won't thread never using these plastic bs again
If you can't get that broken plastic out, probably best if you stay away from working on your car
Fucked up my gasket thanks!
Sorry to hear this, what happened?
@@ThrottleStopRacing rear seal started leaking i put rtv on the corners that didnt do shit
What is the part # on that gasket, i was told they discontinued the dual dipstick revision gaskets. Just through out a 355 because of this.
I did this awhile ago. I do not remember the part number. Sorry.
I got one @ O'Reillys I think they still make them.
@Papar0chi what year vehicle did they come in
@@Rodeshion The engine that I put this on was a junk yard acquisition. I had to try several gaskets to find the right one. I'm sorry but I cannot answer your question. Thank though for your inquiry.
@jakekelch2572 I don't understand your question, but I installed in my 80 k10 with a 350. I hope that helps.
Wrong Gasket they make two different going to that one thick one thin, depending on your oil pan brother
How is the gasket wrong?