I changed 4 oil pans and gaskets trying to solve a tiny little leak that drove me insane. This technique finally solved the issue!! Thank you sir!!!! You’ve saved my mental health..
Just as an FYI for anyone.. not that there's anything wrong with what this guy is doing, if it works for him it works, but all that goop that squeezes out is also squeezing out inside the engine on the side of the gasket you can't get to. It can get dislodged and go through your oil pump etc. Goop really is a "less is more" thing. You really only need a thin finger smear of gasket goo on gaskets, even the amount a thin finger smear squishes out when tightened is plenty
Your point is valid that too much extra silicone sealant is not a good thing. This amount used is the video is the correct application. After hundreds of oil pan installations with this method I know how much is needed. Most guys who put just some on the corners put too much there that can get into bearings or fall into the pan pickup screen. Everyone has an opinion about silicone in general too use or not. Many old school builders just use dry cork or hard rubber gaskets. I use RTV for intake manifolds, all dry gaskets, oil pans, and even transmission seals. Knowing how much to use is the key as we have zero issues with our techniques. Thanks for watching!👍
I've done many stock builds using the RTV in four corners with both good success and some not so good. I started doing this method ever since my engine machine shop builder showed me his way for stock car motors he builds weekly. Have had zero leaks this way now which wasn't always the case doing the FELPRO recommended way. I hate leaks and good luck with your build.
I did the same. 3 times till I swapped to a Moroso pan. Then 3 more times following Felpro's instructions and still have a leak. Losing my mind with this stupid leak. At this point I would definitely do this method. Maybe not along the sides because I've never had issues but definitely along the front and back.
If you have good clean straight surfaces should be fine. I use high pressure oil pumps on all of my engines and using extra RTV ensures a leak free race engine. I hate leaks. Thanks for watching.
Using the gasket maker on BOTH sides (other than the timing cover corners?) Hope your ready to use an air Chinle and get a new oil pan if it ever needs to come off...
I think you meant an air chisel and never had to use anything other then a razor scraper. When professional engine builders install intake manifolds we use even thicker amounts of RTV silicone gasket maker. Even new engines manufacturers (Dodge, Ford, GM, Honda, etc) use sealant for almost ALL gaskets. That includes head gaskets, oil pans, valve covers, and even exhaust systems. I have seen top fuel engine builders even coat head gaskets with RTV sealant. Maybe you learned something from the video, so good luck with your build! 👍
I use the same method on our oil and transmission pan gaskets. No problem getting them off later and no you don’t need an air chisel. Worst case I tap on the pans with a rubber mallet to loosen them.
I'm about ready to do this to mine, felpro gasket that i changed to seal a small leak and it still has a small leak. Redoing it tomorrow and i think I'm going to do the same, its getting old changing a oil pan gasket just to have it leak. I know Felpro says don't use sealant but only on the four corners but they aren't the ones going under the car to change it when it leaks. Over and over.
@@djrowe10 been a week now and all good no leaks, I ran about 1/4" bead of ultra black top and bottom and it came out beautiful. Next time I change my transmission fluid and filter I'm going to try the same, I'm always getting a little sipage there and have to tighten bolts so it don't leak. Thanks, your video was what convinced me of doing it. 👍👍
I am in the process of replacing a broken canton pan with a new one. It appears that the pan gasket was glued to the block with some real tenacious brown stuff and then glued to the pan with clear silicon that came off relatively easy. The entire gasket is still intact and glued to the block. Think since the pans are the same i will reuse the gasket after cleaning the bottom and putting a good layer of clear oil resistant rtv. I am going to use studs too…
Sounds like since the old gasket is secure to the block with either Permatex Aviation sealant or Permatex H type pipe thread sealant that it might work out ok. I would definitely use some new silicone between new pan and gasket to fill any indention gaps in old gasket. But if it was my own project, for the small cost of a new one peice pan gasket ($20) it would give me the piece of mind that it would not leak after installing in my car. Did I mention that I hate leaks? Good luck with your build! 👍
@@djrowe10 not so much the cost, but lying on my back scraping all that crap off, cleaning up the mess etc…my replica cobra lets me drop the thing right out after rotating engine mounts…not that hard if i have to redo the whole thing but WAY easier to try to reuse the well glued in gasket… Thanks for the response!
I'm going to install the Fel Pro one piece oil pan gasket, on a small block Chevy, in the car with the RTV like you did. Can I put the RTV on the oil pan, then put the gasket on the pan, then put RTV on the gasket, then install everything on the engine?
I've tried the four corner method with no luck two times. I just tried this method I have 24 hours to let my sealant cure before I know if it does the job or not
Hopefully you are using a good rubber gasket and not just cork which is more prone to leak even with a good amount of sealant. Good luck with your build! 🙏
No. Their instructions show how to put sealant at the corners of the pan. When you buy a one piece pan gasket there will be instructions inside showing you where to put the sealant.
Im having a tough time sealing mine. It leaks from the front where it connects to the timing cover. And only there. So i dropped the pan and this time i added rtv before and after the gasket to the front and back timing covers and the corners. Exactly the same leak at the same spot. Only the front. Ive read that there is different gaskets for sbc 350 wich is part number 1885 and 1880. But i have a one piece rear main seal wich is different. The gasket i used is fel pro 34500. Is there a different size for mine? Also i switched to a aftermarket oil pan. It is a cobra tek chrome oil pan
The 1880/1885 gaskets are for 2 pc rear main seals. Felpro only makes the 34500 for the 1 pc rear main and has no other gaskets offered. I Fel Pro Oil Pan Gaskets OS 34500 R is designed to fit the stock timing cover on a Chevy small block engine (Gen 1) with the thick front seal and one-piece rear main seal. If you have the oem GM stock pan and timing cover this is the gasket for that. Since you have an aftermarket oil pan and did not say if using stock timing cover or not it is a guess then to say what gasket works best. But generally the aftermarket pans will use the thick front seal that is the 34500R gasket. If you are using short stock length oil pan bolts it is possible that the pan is not tightening up all the way and you could try longer pan bolts sold online. I have had some guys tell me that the 34500 has gave them similar trouble and it doesn't have any tangs on corners to go into rear main and timing cover grooves like other one piece gaskets have. The many variations of gaskets out there is why I use the combo of sealant and rubber gaskets and not just put on dry and chance leaking. I also think it is worth checking the front oil pan lip to see if bent, cracked, or warped so you can fix that area if needed. I have been using moroso pan gaskets with good success lately. The moroso one pc pan gasket you would need is part number 93151. There instructions specify that you will need to add silicone to seal area of timing cover lip and rear main cap lip area and not just the corners or completely dry either. Good luck with this build and let me know what you try or find out next. 👍
@@djrowe10 timing cover is original from that engine. And I tossed my old oil pan not thinking of this problem coming up. I have new bolts that fit fine but I did notice the rear main seal has studs, the front main seal has bolts, you think if I put studs it would be better off?
I use studs when I can for better clamping and to align the gasket easier. Probably worth trying them. You'll have to provide and update when you get it done.
What would be the best way to accomplish this with the engine still in the vehicle? Seems like the gasket would droop down with only the 4 blue clips holding it.
Should usually be more then 4 clips in the felpro gasket kit. Clips should hold enough upside down from falling off but if you only have 4 then use at the four corners in front and rear of block pan bolt holes. Just put sealer onto block and then put gasket on with clips, then sealer again on gasket to pan surface. Just remember to add extra to corners at front and rear main caps. Unlike the terrible hard rubber oem type gaskets for front and rear main caps, the blue one peice gasket doesn't have little corner tabs to get just right into cracks and is reason felpro says to add extra sealer at those spots. Good luck with your project! 👍
@DJ Rowe if doing this while the engine in the vehicle, would you recommend putting the gasket on the sealing surface of the block first, or putting it on the pan surface & then raising the pan to the engine?? Thanks so much. I’m sick of my SBC leaking so I’m going to do exactly what you do in your vid & I’m really really hoping for good things. 😉👍🏻👍🏻
I would say to put the sealant on top of oil pan lip edge and on top of gasket side facing the block then use blue clips on block to hold the gasket against block to press pan onto the block. The blue clips in kit will hold pan upside down against the block while to torque the bolts up. Good luck with your build! 👍
i just installed this same gasket upside down on a race motor that runs high compression and oil pressure it clearly states right in the instructions dont use silicone. i did the cormers doesmt leak at all
Good to hear your gasket install worked out for you. As listed in the description this video is for fixing oil pan leaks on bad surfaces. We primarily build cirlce track engines and some guys are running 30+ year old pans that have seen better days so we use this method to help seal the oil pan the best as possible due to rust pitting or deformations. Many professional machine shops use more sealant then just the corners. Thanks for watching! 👍
Use the plastic clips that twist into block bolt pan holes to hold gasket up while you put pan on. Not all gasket kits have them so be sure your kit you buy has them. Sometimes the crossmember will block the opening and you will have to seal the gasket to the pan and press it on the block. If that is the case then remember the sealant cure time and to get it up before it starts starts setting up.
Thank you for this video. I have tried both the thin and thick one piece gaskets with RTV only in the four corners. Both leaked, mainly along the front seal. The thin one leaked worse than the thick one, but the thick one seemed to be too thick and was not laying real well in the pan. I only tightened the smaller bolts to 40 in-lbs and the corner bolts to 70 in-lbs. 10 to 12 ft lbs seems like too much to me. Is that really how tight you go? I am thinking of using cork with RTV along the sides and just pure RTV along the front and rear (similar to what we do with the aluminum intake manifolds with gaskets on the sides and RTV along the front and rear). I may also end up trying your method. I noticed the ultra black permatex really sticks well to the fel-pro gaskets, so I am confident your method would work provided you don't put too much on. But if it doesn't work...man what a mess to scrape and clean up in order to redo it. Anyway. Thank you sir for doing the video. I hate leaks also!
Thanks for watching. This method is the best way I found to prevent leaks when using aftermarket parts or used oil pans. Older block's oil pan rail surfaces can be rough and pans can be warped so using RTV ultra black and the fel-pro one peice gasket is a great combo. If I need to remove the pan in the future for a rebuild then I just toss out the old gasket and get a new one just leaving some small amounts of RTV on block to peel off with a scraper. I usually tighten the pan bolts with measuring a few foot pounds at minimum. The fel-pro gasket has a metal band inside that can take some heavy clamping force. Good luck with your build! 👍
@@djrowe10 I went out yesterday and re-torqued the smaller bolts to 7 ft-lbs and the corner bolts to 14 ft-lbs. The leak is now just a small seep dead center on the front seal area. I will re-torque again tomorrow and see if it stops. If not, I will buy a new gasket and use your method. I'm sure it will do the trick. Thank you for your help.
@@djrowe10 Well...I replaced the thick one piece gasket using your method and torqued small bolts to 7 ft-lbs and corner bolts to 14 ft-lbs per my maintenance manual. Unfortunately I STILL have a leak between the timing cover and oil pan gasket. So frustrating. Do they make timing covers specifically for thin or thick gaskets? Or is it just the oil pan that determines whether a thick or thin gasket should be used? I ask because the thin gasket seems too thin and the thick gasket seems too thick for my oil pan/timing cover combination. Any ideas? When I lay the thin gasket in the pan it fits real nice, but just not sure it is thick enough to seal against timing cover. When I lay the thick gasket in the pan, It has about a half inch gap between the pan and the seal until I squish the crap out of it with both hands to make it sit down. Perhaps I should try your method again, but use the thin gasket. I'm okay with the engine leaking a little oil, but man I would probably go thru a quart a week with this kind of leak. Not good! I wish your video had the block turned 180 so we could see how your gasket should sit in the block and timing cover.
The gasket is used for increased clearance for a stroker crank. This engine had a 3.875 stroke. Fel-pro gaskets that I use also have a steel shim insert to allow a very snug torque load without crushing it. Plus whenever the time comes to change the pan gasket it will usually stick to the gasket mostly and not the block. Thanks for watching! 👍
@@djrowe10 Honestly I can’t remember what I did. I think I used some Hi-tac sticky stuff. Or RTV can’t remember. Anyways it didn’t leak 😉 It’s an Olds engine pan so I think I installed it per whatever they called out per that era? Same on timing cover and a few other miscellaneous parts that use gaskets
@@djrowe10 Thanks, I installed the gasket following the manufacturer's recommendation (only on the 4 corners), as a result, I'll have to redo the entire service..... subscribed to your channel.
I build many engines per year and always use this method for several years now after a nascar engine builder showed me this method to ensure no oil leaks. Even with the drag race motors I build and rebuild often the oil pan gasket is just removed and tossed out with very little cleanup on pan and block. Most people never take their engines apart until either something breaks or they wear out and this method will keep the pan from leaking until then. I hate leaks too.
Yes. If using cork or a rubber gasket it is better to use the sealant heavily with it because the gaskets will break down over time but the sealant won't. I have used fel-pro steel shimmed rubber gaskets with and without sealant over the years but prefer sealant in even a tiny amount to help fill in anything that's off a bit. I build transmissions for racing and mainly just use fel-pro cork rubber hybrid gaskets on th400s, th350s, 4L60s, PGs, and 4L80s too with just a smear of sealant. Good luck with your project!👍
Using fel-pro gaskets is the first step. Then be sure to use RTV on oil pan and timing cover gaskets. The last step is swiping RTV around outer lip of pan and timing cover which is the final few minutes of my video. Good luck with your build!
If you watched the whole video you would have heard me comment on fel pro and my personal discussions with them about using sealants. I allow comments and opinions from everyone within reason but since I build multiple amounts of engines for racing per year, I am sharing my methods that 100% work best for my work but it's a free country where you can do whatever you want buddy. I plan to stick with what has worked hundreds of times for my builds but please upload your own video to show us your way so I can watch and comment too. I will be waiting back yard garage guy! 👍
I don't know what engine you are working on. A quick look around my shelf supplies are for sbc, bbc, bbf engines. This video is of a Dart SBC 2 piece seal and is OS34510T. SBC 1 piece is OS34500R. BBC is 1884R. BBF 429/460 is OS34507R. I would call summit racing or jegs or speedway to confirm proper fitment since oem oil pans can be different from aftermarket pans. Whatever you do don't go to autozone as they are usually clueless about aftermarket parts. Good luck with your project! 👍
Most engine builder's rebuild someone's engine once in it's life span and the extra time and sealant goes a long way to keep out leaks over the decades. $25 for a pan gasket is cheap compared to my $185 Cometic MLS head gaskets we change out multiple times during the racing season. Oil pans get dropped and banged up too easily and I find the sealant ensures all of the surface is properly covered. Some of the best engine builders even coat their head gaskets when the manufacturers say it's not necessary...so, to each is their own method of success. Good luck with your project! 👍
The Felpro one peice gasket used here has a steel liner to prevent over tightening and smashing the gasket in half like cork is prone to. Plus it gives extra clearance for stroker crankshafts. Some builders just use the "Right Stuff" sealant alone for oil pans and intakes. Using this combination is far from a waste when it ensures no leaking pans with high oil pressures above 80psi. Thanks for watching! 👍
@@djrowe10 I’m gonna try to do without gasket. Any tips by chance on bead size? I heard 1/4” on the right angle corners so I think imma try 1/4” whole thing
I think you mean Felpro? Sounds like a great idea. Please make a video demonstration. They also don't say to use sealant on rear main seals but all professional builders do. Plus we use only 100% sealant between the intake manifold and china wall but I guess you just use the little rubbers that come in Felpro kit? I'm sure those rubbers keep you safe. Thanks for watching! 👍
Using EXCESS SEALANT will cause you to SPLIT THE GASKET when TORQUED down !!!!! Why even use a GASKET when you GLUE THE PAN DOWN?? This is not the way to do it if you plan on getting back inside the pan! Using this method is for SENDING IT DOWN THE ROAD to unsuspecting customers!!!!!!!
Gaskets provide extra clearance for stroker applications. How many times have you experienced split gaskets? My amount of sealant used is just enough to fill any minor gaps on pan or pan rail on block. I have had zero issues in the last decade but if you are splitting metal lined gaskets then I would think it was more related to too much torque on pan bolts. Thanks for sharing your experiences.
@@chriswilhelm7027 The rubbber gasket provides extra clearance for stroker crankshafts. It costs as much as cork which also uses sealant but this felpro gasket is metal lined inside the gasket to allow proper torquing without smashing the gasket flat. This method is extra insurance for preventing oil leaks using 50 year old or more blocks with used aftermarket oil pans. I build multiple engines per year and when you go through all the effort to rebuild your own engine and have an oil pan leak you will have wanted to try this bulletproof method used by top engine building shops across the world. Good luck with your build.
@@djrowe10 I experienced a split gasket on a 421 stroker with a 3.875 stroke. It caught a spot on pass pan rails and I could never get it to seal again. Currently taking it out and using a Victor Reinz brand one piece which is narrower on the pan rail around the bolt holes. The felpro hangs inside the pan more. Nice video but split gasket do happen
3:25 First pass of sealant.
4:45 Second pass of sealant.
7:00 Putting on pan.
10:25 Sealing timing cover.
Just click times to skip ahead.
I changed 4 oil pans and gaskets trying to solve a tiny little leak that drove me insane. This technique finally solved the issue!! Thank you sir!!!! You’ve saved my mental health..
Been there before and no problem! 👍
Just as an FYI for anyone.. not that there's anything wrong with what this guy is doing, if it works for him it works, but all that goop that squeezes out is also squeezing out inside the engine on the side of the gasket you can't get to. It can get dislodged and go through your oil pump etc. Goop really is a "less is more" thing. You really only need a thin finger smear of gasket goo on gaskets, even the amount a thin finger smear squishes out when tightened is plenty
Your point is valid that too much extra silicone sealant is not a good thing. This amount used is the video is the correct application. After hundreds of oil pan installations with this method I know how much is needed. Most guys who put just some on the corners put too much there that can get into bearings or fall into the pan pickup screen. Everyone has an opinion about silicone in general too use or not. Many old school builders just use dry cork or hard rubber gaskets. I use RTV for intake manifolds, all dry gaskets, oil pans, and even transmission seals. Knowing how much to use is the key as we have zero issues with our techniques. Thanks for watching!👍
I am about to install mine but going to follow the FELPRO instructions and only use RTV at the four corners.
I've done many stock builds using the RTV in four corners with both good success and some not so good. I started doing this method ever since my engine machine shop builder showed me his way for stock car motors he builds weekly. Have had zero leaks this way now which wasn't always the case doing the FELPRO recommended way. I hate leaks and good luck with your build.
I did the same. 3 times till I swapped to a Moroso pan. Then 3 more times following Felpro's instructions and still have a leak. Losing my mind with this stupid leak. At this point I would definitely do this method. Maybe not along the sides because I've never had issues but definitely along the front and back.
Thank you! I am going to try this same method on a FWD Chrysler 2.4 WGE, with a leaking oil pan. Using only RTV has been a fail so far.
Good luck! 👍
Thanks for video. Just installed same gasket and only put RTV black in the 4 corners. Hopefully she holds up
If you have good clean straight surfaces should be fine. I use high pressure oil pumps on all of my engines and using extra RTV ensures a leak free race engine. I hate leaks. Thanks for watching.
Using the gasket maker on BOTH sides (other than the timing cover corners?) Hope your ready to use an air Chinle and get a new oil pan if it ever needs to come off...
I think you meant an air chisel and never had to use anything other then a razor scraper. When professional engine builders install intake manifolds we use even thicker amounts of RTV silicone gasket maker. Even new engines manufacturers (Dodge, Ford, GM, Honda, etc) use sealant for almost ALL gaskets. That includes head gaskets, oil pans, valve covers, and even exhaust systems. I have seen top fuel engine builders even coat head gaskets with RTV sealant. Maybe you learned something from the video, so good luck with your build! 👍
I use the same method on our oil and transmission pan gaskets. No problem getting them off later and no you don’t need an air chisel. Worst case I tap on the pans with a rubber mallet to loosen them.
I'm about ready to do this to mine, felpro gasket that i changed to seal a small leak and it still has a small leak. Redoing it tomorrow and i think I'm going to do the same, its getting old changing a oil pan gasket just to have it leak. I know Felpro says don't use sealant but only on the four corners but they aren't the ones going under the car to change it when it leaks. Over and over.
I know what you mean! Good luck with the gasket swap out and thanks for watching 👍
@@djrowe10 been a week now and all good no leaks, I ran about 1/4" bead of ultra black top and bottom and it came out beautiful. Next time I change my transmission fluid and filter I'm going to try the same, I'm always getting a little sipage there and have to tighten bolts so it don't leak. Thanks, your video was what convinced me of doing it. 👍👍
So glad to hear about the good outcome! Plus I really appreciate your responses to let me know it helped as it helps others! 👍
I am in the process of replacing a broken canton pan with a new one. It appears that the pan gasket was glued to the block with some real tenacious brown stuff and then glued to the pan with clear silicon that came off relatively easy. The entire gasket is still intact and glued to the block. Think since the pans are the same i will reuse the gasket after cleaning the bottom and putting a good layer of clear oil resistant rtv. I am going to use studs too…
Sounds like since the old gasket is secure to the block with either Permatex Aviation sealant or Permatex H type pipe thread sealant that it might work out ok. I would definitely use some new silicone between new pan and gasket to fill any indention gaps in old gasket. But if it was my own project, for the small cost of a new one peice pan gasket ($20) it would give me the piece of mind that it would not leak after installing in my car. Did I mention that I hate leaks? Good luck with your build! 👍
@@djrowe10 not so much the cost, but lying on my back scraping all that crap off, cleaning up the mess etc…my replica cobra lets me drop the thing right out after rotating engine mounts…not that hard if i have to redo the whole thing but WAY easier to try to reuse the well glued in gasket…
Thanks for the response!
Thank you for the video. This is what I been trying to figure out
Thanks for watching and good luck with your build! 👍
I'm going to install the Fel Pro one piece oil pan gasket, on a small block Chevy, in the car with the RTV like you did. Can I put the RTV on the oil pan, then put the gasket on the pan, then put RTV on the gasket, then install everything on the engine?
If you are under the car then that will work too. Try fel pro blue clips to hold it on the block. Good luck with your project! 👍
I've tried the four corner method with no luck two times. I just tried this method I have 24 hours to let my sealant cure before I know if it does the job or not
Hopefully you are using a good rubber gasket and not just cork which is more prone to leak even with a good amount of sealant. Good luck with your build! 🙏
doesnt the fel pro company say to no use any type of rtv only at the joints.
No. Their instructions show how to put sealant at the corners of the pan. When you buy a one piece pan gasket there will be instructions inside showing you where to put the sealant.
Im having a tough time sealing mine. It leaks from the front where it connects to the timing cover. And only there. So i dropped the pan and this time i added rtv before and after the gasket to the front and back timing covers and the corners. Exactly the same leak at the same spot. Only the front. Ive read that there is different gaskets for sbc 350 wich is part number 1885 and 1880. But i have a one piece rear main seal wich is different. The gasket i used is fel pro 34500. Is there a different size for mine? Also i switched to a aftermarket oil pan. It is a cobra tek chrome oil pan
The 1880/1885 gaskets are for 2 pc rear main seals. Felpro only makes the 34500 for the 1 pc rear main and has no other gaskets offered. I Fel Pro Oil Pan Gaskets OS 34500 R is designed to fit the stock timing cover on a Chevy small block engine (Gen 1) with the thick front seal and one-piece rear main seal. If you have the oem GM stock pan and timing cover this is the gasket for that. Since you have an aftermarket oil pan and did not say if using stock timing cover or not it is a guess then to say what gasket works best. But generally the aftermarket pans will use the thick front seal that is the 34500R gasket. If you are using short stock length oil pan bolts it is possible that the pan is not tightening up all the way and you could try longer pan bolts sold online. I have had some guys tell me that the 34500 has gave them similar trouble and it doesn't have any tangs on corners to go into rear main and timing cover grooves like other one piece gaskets have. The many variations of gaskets out there is why I use the combo of sealant and rubber gaskets and not just put on dry and chance leaking. I also think it is worth checking the front oil pan lip to see if bent, cracked, or warped so you can fix that area if needed. I have been using moroso pan gaskets with good success lately. The moroso one pc pan gasket you would need is part number 93151. There instructions specify that you will need to add silicone to seal area of timing cover lip and rear main cap lip area and not just the corners or completely dry either. Good luck with this build and let me know what you try or find out next. 👍
@@djrowe10 timing cover is original from that engine. And I tossed my old oil pan not thinking of this problem coming up. I have new bolts that fit fine but I did notice the rear main seal has studs, the front main seal has bolts, you think if I put studs it would be better off?
I use studs when I can for better clamping and to align the gasket easier. Probably worth trying them. You'll have to provide and update when you get it done.
What would be the best way to accomplish this with the engine still in the vehicle? Seems like the gasket would droop down with only the 4 blue clips holding it.
Should usually be more then 4 clips in the felpro gasket kit. Clips should hold enough upside down from falling off but if you only have 4 then use at the four corners in front and rear of block pan bolt holes. Just put sealer onto block and then put gasket on with clips, then sealer again on gasket to pan surface. Just remember to add extra to corners at front and rear main caps. Unlike the terrible hard rubber oem type gaskets for front and rear main caps, the blue one peice gasket doesn't have little corner tabs to get just right into cracks and is reason felpro says to add extra sealer at those spots. Good luck with your project! 👍
@DJ Rowe if doing this while the engine in the vehicle, would you recommend putting the gasket on the sealing surface of the block first, or putting it on the pan surface & then raising the pan to the engine??
Thanks so much. I’m sick of my SBC leaking so I’m going to do exactly what you do in your vid & I’m really really hoping for good things. 😉👍🏻👍🏻
I would say to put the sealant on top of oil pan lip edge and on top of gasket side facing the block then use blue clips on block to hold the gasket against block to press pan onto the block. The blue clips in kit will hold pan upside down against the block while to torque the bolts up. Good luck with your build! 👍
i just installed this same gasket upside down on a race motor that runs high compression and oil pressure it clearly states right in the instructions dont use silicone. i did the cormers doesmt leak at all
Good to hear your gasket install worked out for you. As listed in the description this video is for fixing oil pan leaks on bad surfaces. We primarily build cirlce track engines and some guys are running 30+ year old pans that have seen better days so we use this method to help seal the oil pan the best as possible due to rust pitting or deformations. Many professional machine shops use more sealant then just the corners. Thanks for watching! 👍
I will be doing this with the engine in the vehicle. Any tips on how to do it with just myself
Use the plastic clips that twist into block bolt pan holes to hold gasket up while you put pan on. Not all gasket kits have them so be sure your kit you buy has them. Sometimes the crossmember will block the opening and you will have to seal the gasket to the pan and press it on the block. If that is the case then remember the sealant cure time and to get it up before it starts starts setting up.
Thank you for this video. I have tried both the thin and thick one piece gaskets with RTV only in the four corners. Both leaked, mainly along the front seal. The thin one leaked worse than the thick one, but the thick one seemed to be too thick and was not laying real well in the pan. I only tightened the smaller bolts to 40 in-lbs and the corner bolts to 70 in-lbs. 10 to 12 ft lbs seems like too much to me. Is that really how tight you go? I am thinking of using cork with RTV along the sides and just pure RTV along the front and rear (similar to what we do with the aluminum intake manifolds with gaskets on the sides and RTV along the front and rear). I may also end up trying your method. I noticed the ultra black permatex really sticks well to the fel-pro gaskets, so I am confident your method would work provided you don't put too much on. But if it doesn't work...man what a mess to scrape and clean up in order to redo it. Anyway. Thank you sir for doing the video. I hate leaks also!
Thanks for watching. This method is the best way I found to prevent leaks when using aftermarket parts or used oil pans. Older block's oil pan rail surfaces can be rough and pans can be warped so using RTV ultra black and the fel-pro one peice gasket is a great combo. If I need to remove the pan in the future for a rebuild then I just toss out the old gasket and get a new one just leaving some small amounts of RTV on block to peel off with a scraper. I usually tighten the pan bolts with measuring a few foot pounds at minimum. The fel-pro gasket has a metal band inside that can take some heavy clamping force. Good luck with your build! 👍
@@djrowe10 I went out yesterday and re-torqued the smaller bolts to 7 ft-lbs and the corner bolts to 14 ft-lbs. The leak is now just a small seep dead center on the front seal area. I will re-torque again tomorrow and see if it stops. If not, I will buy a new gasket and use your method. I'm sure it will do the trick. Thank you for your help.
@@djrowe10 Well...I replaced the thick one piece gasket using your method and torqued small bolts to 7 ft-lbs and corner bolts to 14 ft-lbs per my maintenance manual. Unfortunately I STILL have a leak between the timing cover and oil pan gasket. So frustrating. Do they make timing covers specifically for thin or thick gaskets? Or is it just the oil pan that determines whether a thick or thin gasket should be used? I ask because the thin gasket seems too thin and the thick gasket seems too thick for my oil pan/timing cover combination. Any ideas? When I lay the thin gasket in the pan it fits real nice, but just not sure it is thick enough to seal against timing cover. When I lay the thick gasket in the pan, It has about a half inch gap between the pan and the seal until I squish the crap out of it with both hands to make it sit down. Perhaps I should try your method again, but use the thin gasket. I'm okay with the engine leaking a little oil, but man I would probably go thru a quart a week with this kind of leak. Not good! I wish your video had the block turned 180 so we could see how your gasket should sit in the block and timing cover.
@@dennis6325 The oil pan determines the gasket thickness
@@dennis6325 early pan, thin, later pan , thick. Early 55-74-thin, 75+ thicker. Aftermarket pans, you need to check what they are modeled after.
So serious question. Why even use the gasket? Why not just use the RTV by itself?
The gasket is used for increased clearance for a stroker crank. This engine had a 3.875 stroke. Fel-pro gaskets that I use also have a steel shim insert to allow a very snug torque load without crushing it. Plus whenever the time comes to change the pan gasket it will usually stick to the gasket mostly and not the block. Thanks for watching! 👍
@@djrowe10 cool thanks for taking the time to explain. Makes sense now
Hey I hope you were able to use this method with good results! I have heard back from some that it did the trick. Thanks for your comments! 👍
@@djrowe10 Honestly I can’t remember what I did. I think I used some Hi-tac sticky stuff. Or RTV can’t remember. Anyways it didn’t leak 😉 It’s an Olds engine pan so I think I installed it per whatever they called out per that era? Same on timing cover and a few other miscellaneous parts that use gaskets
Awesome
Hello DJ Rowe, please, what is the diameter +/- do you cut at the tip of the applicator to have this thin cord without excess. Thanks.
Usually I cut the tip off about 1/8"-1/4" depending on what area if the block I am sealing.
@@djrowe10 Thanks, I installed the gasket following the manufacturer's recommendation (only on the 4 corners), as a result, I'll have to redo the entire service..... subscribed to your channel.
Was hoping it all worked out with this method for you! Thanks for your comments! 👍
DJ Rowe have you used this method of RTV on both sides of the gasket more than once & always had good luck with it??
I build many engines per year and always use this method for several years now after a nascar engine builder showed me this method to ensure no oil leaks. Even with the drag race motors I build and rebuild often the oil pan gasket is just removed and tossed out with very little cleanup on pan and block. Most people never take their engines apart until either something breaks or they wear out and this method will keep the pan from leaking until then. I hate leaks too.
Would you take the same route for a th400 pan?
Yes. If using cork or a rubber gasket it is better to use the sealant heavily with it because the gaskets will break down over time but the sealant won't. I have used fel-pro steel shimmed rubber gaskets with and without sealant over the years but prefer sealant in even a tiny amount to help fill in anything that's off a bit. I build transmissions for racing and mainly just use fel-pro cork rubber hybrid gaskets on th400s, th350s, 4L60s, PGs, and 4L80s too with just a smear of sealant. Good luck with your project!👍
How would you seal timing chain cover, that's where mine seems to always leak from
Using fel-pro gaskets is the first step. Then be sure to use RTV on oil pan and timing cover gaskets. The last step is swiping RTV around outer lip of pan and timing cover which is the final few minutes of my video. Good luck with your build!
You should watch the instructions from Fel Pro ! The say RTV only in the corners !!! I'm pretty sure they know what their talking about !
If you watched the whole video you would have heard me comment on fel pro and my personal discussions with them about using sealants. I allow comments and opinions from everyone within reason but since I build multiple amounts of engines for racing per year, I am sharing my methods that 100% work best for my work but it's a free country where you can do whatever you want buddy. I plan to stick with what has worked hundreds of times for my builds but please upload your own video to show us your way so I can watch and comment too. I will be waiting back yard garage guy! 👍
what is the part number for the blue gasket ?
I don't know what engine you are working on. A quick look around my shelf supplies are for sbc, bbc, bbf engines. This video is of a Dart SBC 2 piece seal and is OS34510T. SBC 1 piece is OS34500R. BBC is 1884R. BBF 429/460 is OS34507R. I would call summit racing or jegs or speedway to confirm proper fitment since oem oil pans can be different from aftermarket pans. Whatever you do don't go to autozone as they are usually clueless about aftermarket parts. Good luck with your project! 👍
Why spend so much money on the one piece gasket that is "reusable" only to cover it in sealant and make it a 1 time use gasket?
Most engine builder's rebuild someone's engine once in it's life span and the extra time and sealant goes a long way to keep out leaks over the decades. $25 for a pan gasket is cheap compared to my $185 Cometic MLS head gaskets we change out multiple times during the racing season. Oil pans get dropped and banged up too easily and I find the sealant ensures all of the surface is properly covered. Some of the best engine builders even coat their head gaskets when the manufacturers say it's not necessary...so, to each is their own method of success. Good luck with your project! 👍
Kinda a waiste buying the felpro one piece gasket if you still have to treat it the same way as cork and rubber.
The Felpro one peice gasket used here has a steel liner to prevent over tightening and smashing the gasket in half like cork is prone to. Plus it gives extra clearance for stroker crankshafts. Some builders just use the "Right Stuff" sealant alone for oil pans and intakes. Using this combination is far from a waste when it ensures no leaking pans with high oil pressures above 80psi. Thanks for watching! 👍
That helps👌
👍❤
Seems like that sealant itself would be enough to seal it
The gasket is still needed too since it would be too difficult to get the amount of sealant just right. Thanks for watching! 👍
@@djrowe10 I’m gonna try to do without gasket. Any tips by chance on bead size? I heard 1/4” on the right angle corners so I think imma try 1/4” whole thing
1/4" is probably fine. I have only done transmission pans that way and think it was about that size. Good luck with that and hope it worked out! 👍
Don't push the caulk gun
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Thanks for watching!👍
@@djrowe10 good video
Fail Pro instructions say install this dry and only use small dabs on junctions
I think you mean Felpro? Sounds like a great idea. Please make a video demonstration. They also don't say to use sealant on rear main seals but all professional builders do. Plus we use only 100% sealant between the intake manifold and china wall but I guess you just use the little rubbers that come in Felpro kit? I'm sure those rubbers keep you safe. Thanks for watching! 👍
Using EXCESS SEALANT will cause you to SPLIT THE GASKET when TORQUED down !!!!! Why even use a GASKET when you GLUE THE PAN DOWN??
This is not the way to do it if you plan on getting back inside the pan! Using this method is for SENDING IT DOWN THE ROAD to unsuspecting customers!!!!!!!
Gaskets provide extra clearance for stroker applications. How many times have you experienced split gaskets? My amount of sealant used is just enough to fill any minor gaps on pan or pan rail on block. I have had zero issues in the last decade but if you are splitting metal lined gaskets then I would think it was more related to too much torque on pan bolts. Thanks for sharing your experiences.
@@djrowe10 12 Ft lbs is all I do
What was the point of the rubber gasket
@@chriswilhelm7027 The rubbber gasket provides extra clearance for stroker crankshafts. It costs as much as cork which also uses sealant but this felpro gasket is metal lined inside the gasket to allow proper torquing without smashing the gasket flat. This method is extra insurance for preventing oil leaks using 50 year old or more blocks with used aftermarket oil pans. I build multiple engines per year and when you go through all the effort to rebuild your own engine and have an oil pan leak you will have wanted to try this bulletproof method used by top engine building shops across the world. Good luck with your build.
@@djrowe10 I experienced a split gasket on a 421 stroker with a 3.875 stroke. It caught a spot on pass pan rails and I could never get it to seal again. Currently taking it out and using a Victor Reinz brand one piece which is narrower on the pan rail around the bolt holes. The felpro hangs inside the pan more. Nice video but split gasket do happen