Why You NEVER ATTEMPT To Use RTV Gasket Maker Without Doing This First!!
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- Опубликовано: 17 май 2024
- Why You NEVER ATTEMPT To Use RTV Gasket Maker Without Doing This First!! #rtvGasketMaker #RTV #UltraGrey How To Use Gasket Maker!!
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Permatex gasket maker used in this video: amzn.to/45okhFd
Here's the Fel-Pro intake manifold gaskets I used in this video: amzn.to/3BMgrIr
Here's the first time I did this job: • This Is Why You NEVER ...
www.1roadgarage.com
In this video I show how I messed up doing a somewhat simple job all because I didn't do enough research into how exactly to use gasket maker. I thought I had done enough but didn't quite understand the difference between a metal to metal seal and one that also incorporates solid gaskets. Oh well, it's fixed now and I've certainly learned from this experience and hope you enjoy this video!
**This channel is for entertainment purposes only! Do not do what I do. Do not take my advice. I am not a professional. The methods I use may be completely wrong and/or dangerous. Please seek professional help with anything and everything and do your own due diligence (research). Working on cars is extremely dangerous. I am not responsible for any loss of life or limb or property. DO YOUR OWN RESEARCH. THIS CHANNEL IS FOR ENTERTAINMENT PURPOSES ONLY!**
FTC Disclaimer: I am an Amazon associate. As such, I earn a percentage of sales made through Amazon associate links found in the description of my videos and on my website and other places.
00:00 Intro
01:09 What I did wrong
02:42 Fel-Pro gaskets after 2 weeks
03:35 The reason why RTV failed
04:35 Why I made a mistake
05:39 Peeling Fel-Pro gaskets
06:19 Permatex Ultra Grey Application
07:08 New intake gaskets
08:04 Gasket maker squeezing out
08:25 Which directions to follow
09:21 Applying thread sealant
11:21 Before I start the truck
14:44 Starting the truck
15:34 Conclusion 
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Here's An EPIC 4 Year BFG KO2 Tire Update In The Snow: ruclips.net/video/niIG7e_wK8E/видео.html
This guy shouldn’t be working on engines
It's amazing how much can be learned when mistakes are made and you maintain a positive demeanor.
Facts! L's aren't loses but lessons actually.
I'm amazed he put that little lol
Yep, his mistakes to our benefit.
Watching this video, someone (hopefully) will learn of this mistake before making it themselves ☝
That is so truthful!
I love any video that reminds me of my dad who's now gone... Replace the intake gas gets on an Oldsmobile and my old man went golfing. He gave me some advice etc. But like usual I was hoping he'd be over my shoulder. I did the work anyways thought I put the gaskets on pretty well. I started it, said "look dad I fixed it."
Coolant started spewing out a split second later 🤣🤣
"Yeah, now you gotta do it again! I'll show yah what you missed."
Didn't use enough gasket maker to hold the gaskets in place and they shifted when I installed intake.
When I ask my old man why he just didn't do it for me. The first time the right way... he explained. "You learn from making mistakes!"
Miss the hell out of him 😪
The most important part before using liquid gasket is making sure the mating surfaces are prepped correctly. There can't be a single trace of oil. If you wipe the surface with a paper towel and it leaves a black smudge, the surface isn't clean enough. Then of course make sure you lay down a thick enough bead. Typically the service manual will give you an exact measurement of how large the bead should be if you aren't sure
I use brakleen or acetone to remove oil residue then smear a thin layer on both sides and let it cure for a bit before doing the bead, then let it cure completely after assembly.
@@AreaThirteenThirteen Brake clean works great to remove old sealant but it will give you a false sense of security. In my experience brake clean will leave a really thin film on aluminum surfaces for way longer than you would expect it to. Finishing the prep with a scotch brite pad works perfectly since you are effectively sanding off any leftover sealant or oil residue. You just have to be mindful of the dust
I’ve been a mechanic for 57 years full time
I still ruff up surface with electric engraver to help hold silicone in place
Just hate come back or leaks
If silicone says 12 hours to cue I double it
I find the best in my opinion, after removing old residues, clean the surface with Thinner, it doesn't leave traces.
I think the biggest problem here is that the gaskets on the intake are thicker than OEM, which is why you have such a big gap where you apllied the silicon gasket maker. For a normall sized gap/mating surface, the amount of silicone would have definitely been enough. So i think your conclusion at 4:35 is absolutely correct.
no, it's always got that gap on these engines. He keeps saying "more than you think you need...." Well, if you would have just looked at it when you took it off....or test fit it to check that gap, or anything other than assume you know what it needs, you would have seen the amount of space you had to fill. It's a thing. Just check that gap if you don't know. I like to see gasket squish out evenly all the way along the mating surfaces. But, I'd also use the Right Stuff, not the stuff in the package w the gaskets.
older small blocks used a rubber gasket on the front/back wall, hence the large gap, but you still needed a dab of RTV in the corners to prevent leaks. It's possible that they found the RTV to be more effective than the rubber gasket, or maybe it's simply cheaper
another tip is to use a finger and smear a thin film of rtv on both clean surfaces before applying the bead of rtv to one side. this ensures the rtv will adhere to both surfaces rather than touch but not bond properly.
Been wrenching for 20 years, that's how I do it gotta make sure learned my lesson on a 7.3 oil pan 😂.
seems like i fit tacks up it should bond properly regardless??
If you imagine your intake manifold as a V with a flat bottom. It MUST seal on the V sides against the heads. Since there's no real adjustment on the sides of the V, the manufacturer made clearance on the flat bottom to ensure the sides properly mate with the heads and seal. As you stated, gasket thickness is also a major factor in the bottom gap. This is the one place where a tall thick bead needs to be used. This is completely different than sealing a thermostat housing for example where only two surfaces are involved, there you need to use a thin bead. Otherwise, the sealant will intrude into the internals. Great video!
Always humbling when can admit you didn't do something right or good enough. And it's nice to learn from a mistake. Appreciate you Jimmy
Haha, yep. Thanks! 👍
*I went from owning a buick lesabre to owning an acura RSX - to owning a K1500 (1998) and subaru impreza (2005),* the biggest thing i noticed between japanese cars and american cars was the gaskets, specifically honda/acura uses this stuff called "honda bond" -it works every. single. time. (just a pain to get off) -i actually use the stuff anytime something calls for "gasket maker" unless its high heat.
the other thing i wanted to say is that
1. honda parts usually mate way closer than whats seen in the video, i've literally never seen something not squish a bead that big down nearly flat
2. regardless of how smashed the rtv gets, the two mating surfaces need to be cleaned very well, always wipe dry with paper towels
The same exact thing happened to me a little more than a month ago. Another mistake I made was starting the vehicle too soon to purge the air out of the coolant system. I gave the RTV 48 hours to cure the second time.
I approach this with the same logic as you. Hey you live and you learn. At least you had a positive attitude and made a video for others to learn from.
I've never waited for my front covers or oil pans to cure 24 or 48 hours and I've never had a leak 😅
Good information.. The vacuum created by just turning the engine over a time or two can potentially ruin the seal.
@@jjunderwood4095same, bolt it together, start it up. Shops aren't letting a car occupy a bay for 24 hours to allow it to cure
"Right Stuff " costs more but it's benefit is a faster working time.
No person starts off out of the starting gate a master/pro/expert at this stuff.
Thank you for sharing your experience and knowledge.
The first time I installed an intake gasket set was on a Chevy 327 many years ago.
At that time they were still supplying rubber end gaskets in the hasket sets. Using silicone was the new thing back then. I wasn't sure how much to put on, so with all surfaces clean, I set the two gaskets in place then layed the manifold in place to actually see in my mind how large the end gaps were. I'm a visual person so seeing how big the gaps were told me how much silicone was needed.
This time around, you put on exactly the right amount. A tad to much is better than a tad too little.
If there's a little too much squeezing out, its never going to get brittle and "flake" off inside the manifold and clog anything up.
I think it was big mistake to do away with the rubber gasket in a place that was designed with a gap that was made large enough to accommodate one. It should have the rubber and a small amount of sealant at the corners.
This is exactly what just to me. I can’t thank you enough for your suggestions. I’ll be doing my 93 LT1 intake manifold gasket again.
I see my mistakes thanks to your video. Especially the part where u wait before torque sequence and of course liberal amount of gasket sealer.
Im no mechanic and it sucks having to redo a job like this. But at least you're able to do it and learn from your mistake. I sure did! Great job!
You should also apply a thin layer of rtv on the other mating surface and make sure to use brake clean or equivalent to fully clean surfaces
My old love, the TBI 350 small block.
I miss these engines.
Thanks for being humble and sharing your learning experience. It gives us DIYer's the confidence and positivity needed to learn!
Good to see you keeping yourself busy after Family Ties finished.
You also want to run the gasket maker from the China walls onto the Felpro Gaskets that overlap The China Walls It will help seal the gap between The Manifold the gasket and the China Walls @1Road
WOW, I was wondering when I watched the first time about that thin layer of sealer... now we both know. Sorry you had to learn that the hard way but, think of how many guys (like me) you saved from having to do it twice! I was excited to see the intake video since I have a slight leak on the front of my manifold. Unfortunately, that job will have to wait until I recover from rotator cuff surgery. Maybe it's a blessing in disguise I got hurt because I was going to do this job on my '99 K2500 Suburban (7.4L) and would have followed your video and ended up in the same boat. It takes a honest person to show their mistakes on YT. Thanks for sharing, can't wait to see what's next.
Some people get a little self conscious about revealing their mistakes, but at the end of the day we're all here to learn and grow. Thanks for sharing! Hopefully I can now avoid the same mistake when I change the valve cover gasket on my 2012 Ford Focus.
That’s an insane amount of RTV you had to put on there. I’m a professional mechanic and I’m afraid I might not have put enough on the first go-round either.
My take: You used enough, coulda used a bit more on that thin strand, but either 1. You didn't tighten enough on the initial tighten that you sit to let it set up before the final tighten, or 2. your parts are so warped that there was a non-standard gap needing to be filled. The resulting smooshed bead was too tall. But using that monster bead, the inside of your front looks like the outside of your back, (8:25) If any of those formed individualized globules that fall off inside. . . major bumming (cussword) especially in the head oil routing, (yeah odds are it ends up in the oil pump intake and you don't notice, but it can get stuck in an oil restrictor and kill oil to an entire set of lash adjusters.) Maybe a step of like modeling clay in the gap to see if you're warped or what the smoosh will actually achieve when the parts are mated?
Ya, I saw those yuge beads and was thinking... man that would clog an pickup in a jiffy if I used that much on an oil pan. You shouldn't have a 1/4" gap to fill with RTV, that's the issue here.
I agree. He used far too much sealant for the second repair.
Does nobody use a flat reference and sand down the surface with a sanding block? That’s what I was going to do
Good catch. No matter the application, this is a good all-around lesson on being meticulous with your car 👍
Thats how we learn, what if we gave up every failed repair attempt, I wouldnt have a car. We learn and grow..nice job!
Bro we have all been there. Thank you for your humility and persistence!
Honesty and patience (with yourself) in DIY is crucial. Otherwise we’d all give up after the first stuff up.
The funny thing about mistakes is that it sticks with you and you remember it forever.
Its been a while since Ive seen a mechanical distributor.
Good job.
Protip: since those were basically new parts, You could have easily as well reused those felpro intake gaskets if someone was in a pinch and in your shoes and couldn’t find them in stock by the time you reopen the engine to reseal the rtv for a second time
I hate RTV its garbage and a crap way to get a leak proof seal. I use form a gasket and a quality gasket.
@@GregariousAntithesis If you follow the directions and allow up to 3 hours before starting the engine, RTV holds extremely well. Use an adequate amount and you won't have issues.
@@kurtangusofficial fuk that garbage. I will continue to use anaerobic sealant like permatex form a gasket that never leaks.
THANKS FOR THE INFORMATION. I always liked using gaskets. One time I had to use form a gasket and was concerned about it as you were. Also, when putting in new spark plugs I use a piece of neoprene hose and put it on the top of the plug and screw it in by hand then I'll use the wrench to tighten it down. I always use the air compressor and blow around the plug then use a shop/vac to suck out any debris before pulling the plug.
We've all been there. Lesson Learned! Good job Jimmy.
Great video! Virtually all real learning comes from mistakes! Never give in!!! You are a Winner, for sure!!!
Nice work and great looking rig, Love the look of OBS. I been working on my own vehicls for 24 years as well as family vehicles and I learn new things each time also been.
Jimmy, great presentation. So happy to see your EYE PRO, also. Setting the example… good on ya!
Appreciate the heads up on the RTv bud, Doing this exact job today on a 95 5.7 tbi.
Don't be so hard on yourself Jimmy.Making mistakes is how we learn not to do things....😁👍👍Nice job, even if you did do it twice...👊
Great explanation on noting the thickness of the gasket has to be taken into account. Well done
I use permatex for many years and doesn't wait for that 1 hour dry time
Just torque everything to spec right away and let it dry , never have a problem
Great stuff! I appreciate the attention to detail and direction for us novices.
I’m glad you mentioned too much sealant, during the torque sequence of the manifold. When I was a mechanic I discovered so many vehicles with clogged or partially clogged engine oil sump screens with pieces of silicone and other debris from the assembly line.
And that is exactly why I never use silicone sealant anywhere on an engine where it may migrate into the oil system. I call that crap no more skill.
The pro application in the thumbnail is excessive
@@stupidbird4U It's needed still in some situations. On honda's, a bit is needed on mating surfaces between two parts, like your cam towers in the front and back of the head where the valve cover gasket seats, and the mating surface of the oil pan between the oil pump and engine block (and iirc, the rear main seal plate) if you don't use it, you'll never seal in those locations since it's a meeting point between two different parts. You can't get away from it no matter what due to how the engine is assembled.
I suspect it's caused more by rushing the job and not allowing a full and proper cure time. Also not using clean or new parts. For example, a new or well cleaned oil pan, given proper cure time even with too much sealant should be fine. If the sealant drips, it's not cured. If it drips into the inside of the oil pan and oil is added, then yes, the oil will float the sealant and the pickup tube will get clogged. If you don't rush, the dripped sealant will cure on the inside of the oil pan and not come off when you add oil back. Lots of places do the bare minimum, including waiting on cure time. That is more than likely the main culprit. Also more sealant means a longer cure time. Best case scenario is if you can let it cure overnight or longer.
Good camera work.. i view your stuff every few months or more when u pop up on phone while viewing car categories.l like your narration and you,like Scotty ,seem like a great guy ....thx for doing your videos
No way !!!I just watch your video yesterday and now you have start over wow!
Also putting another bead on top of the edges of the gaskets that meet the China wall will also help @1Road
Always use black silicone when your working with oil. Dont let it skin. Put the silicone on, put the parts together, and torque them down. Those old lt1 blocks are some of the worst to do. I did my camaro twice in one day once because i forgot a ⅝ wrench in the lifter Valley.
In general also be mindful of where the extra hardening material is going to go when it squeezes out on the inside. For some gasket locations, like ones with tiny oil channels on the interior, this is worth paying attention to.
Ultra grey is good stuff. Ive used it for valve gaskets, thermostat housings, coolant bypass housings, water pumps.
An intake manifold is one job you need RTV silicone for sure, as a proper vacuum is needed for function and efficiency (just like the heads). I don't know personally which silicone is best, as every mechanic seems to have their favorite that they believe is best. Nice re-do and thanks for showing us, Jimmy!
Glad you enjoyed it! 🤙
I use ONLY the gray silicone for this purpose. It is much more robust that the orange, blue or black.
@@x-man5056no it’s not. Ultra Black/ The Right Stuff, is the most robust RTV you can get. And that’s not an opinion, that’s a fact
@@tclott316 Incorrect
According to a test performed by Project Farm, the black RTV from Mopar is the best. It is significatly better than the gray stuff from Permatex which I used to use.
When I worked for a GM dealership as an auto tech they recommended using a healthy amount of the RTV Ultra Black and it comes in a "squeeze cheese" canister so you don't have to squeeze the toothpaste style tube. Run the RTV about an inch and a half up the head BEFORE you put the intake gaskets down. I did my GMC Sonoma 4 years ago and she's still dry. I've done literally hundreds of these intake reseals. All the front wheel drive vehicles AND the 3rd Gen LT's used plastic intake gaskets which are junk and very susceptible to breaking and leaking. Mainly because it's stupid but sometimes from over torquing. Happy wrenching.
I wish you were in Co!❤😮
I know people talk about "scraping" gaskets, but its easier to use a brass brush for alot of it. Also don't wipe with a dry towel, use brake cleaner or whatever solvent.
I did a valve cover gasket on a 2002 5.9 magnum truck, I very frustrated because I obviously didn’t do a good job and I’d leaking. The rear on engine one can barely get your hands in there to even see in what condition out is. Can I also use RTV ultra
Permatex black along with gasket? I’m not a mechanic, just learning as I go, any advise I can get from anybody is welcomed.
@@Gabriellariz what type of gasket is it? RTV, pressed tin, paper, composite, cork?
And yes for cleaning rtv up nothing is quicker than brake cleaner and brass brush. It just melts off. Tapping paper gaskets gets them off pronto too
@@Gabriellarizmake sure both mating surfaces are flat. Use long flat sanding block on the manifold if not to reduce the clearances and make it uniform
I respect your honesty, you saved me from the same mistake, thanks.
don't beat yourself up brother sometimes doing a job twice is a great learning experience. It looks like you did a hell of job the second time, nice work.
I was aghast when I seen oil passages in your lower intake manifold, definitely adds a extra dynamic to a repair that uses sealants. Great content!
I recently had to repair a Rover K-series engine that someone used standard silicone sealant for the cam carrier. The excess had hardened and blocked oilways and damaged the hydraulic tappets. Anaerobic sealant is needed for anywhere it could get into oilways. Any excess doesn't harden and just mixes in with the oil
@@TheBlaert That's interesting.. I never thought about the adhesive needing to be anaerobic, or of it being a danger to oil circulation if otherwise. I have heard of mechanics who will only use clear silicone (although I've never seen an automotive clear RTV adhesive for sale anywhere).
Such a clean Old Rig so nice to see A well taken care of Truck @1Road
What you need is some 1/8"-1/4" hard cork to make the gaskets for either end of of the manifold. That is what the manuals used to specify back in the 70's. Then you can use a THIN coating of RTV on either side. Filling up the space with RTV is not the way to handle that.
That's a pretty thick bead of rtv. When too much it will end up in the oil strainer. Always clean and double clean the surface. As a tech I will say this, too much rtv will become an oil restriction in the oil system. Specifically the strainer.
It's only a problem if you rush the job and put fluids in before everything is cured enough. If given the proper time, everything should be cured enough to not fall off into the oil pan or engine, depending on what you're sealing. If the sealant isn't dripping on the outside where it pushed out, then its not dripping on the inside. If everything is clean or new like it should be, even if it drips before curing, it will stay stuck to whatever it dripped on. If it dripped onto the inside of a clean/new oil pan, if you wait the proper curing time, it will cure on the inside of the pan, and you wont have to worry about it floating and being sucked into the engine.
Great fix and presentation ! Keep up the good work 👍
My first time using this to seal an intake manifold looked exactly like the "after" photo.
The front liquid gasket looks beautiful.
Tip for using those coin-type spark plug gap measuring tools. Us a pair of calipers to check the calibration. Some of the gappers are bare as-cast, and some are plated. I don't think they compensate for the plating. I've found some gappers are off by .010" from actual measurements (treating the caliper as "standard"). The gappers are still useful, you just need to know what to add/subtract to correct the scale on the gapper.
Thabks for making this I'm mid replacing a very involved spoiler like not a thin one it raps around the bottom duckbill style and man I have pne part left been spending all day doing this, and this video showing not everyone is always good at everything and has mistakes definitely gave me a bit more motivation to do it
@1ROAD I applaud your willingness to show your mistake on camera, and to jump right back in and fix it right. One side note, check your PCV system. If the crankcase is over pressurizing due to a clogged or stuck PCV valve, then these RTV seals will see a lot of pressure, and they are the weak spot in the system. They could blow out and cause another oil leak issue. Just a heads up.
Having to sit on top of the engine bay is an especially important technique most mechanics fail to mention. 😁😉 Awesome video! Thanks!
Thanks for the video, a number of good points. I am, sure you saved me a lot of work!
I like to use spray tack to hold the gaskets. Great video.
An ATF technician told me to lay down a bead, then use a gloved finger to smear it around. This has worked for me everytime since.
Nice video. I appreciate your transparency
Excellent Video Brother, Great Job 👍
I Absolutely Love All of your videos ❤ Thank You!
Very good video, and some good tips and procedures to follow. Yup, you learn what, when, where and how much RTV sealant to use by doing it.
Can get longer bolts same tread cut off heads use them to guide intake & hold gaskets also. I do that also for transmissions to guide it in
I am appreciative of your candor and thankful that I have learned from your mistakes. 😂😉🥰😏👍
I had to replace my whole oil pan recently, about 15 bolts just holding the pan. also a very tight squeeze getting it in and working under the car on jack stands was a real pain. I used enough gasket maker the first time but after letting it sit for the 24 hours I realized there was a little section inside the pan that was supposed to get gasket maker too that I forgot so I had to remove the pan and scrape all that gasket maker off again and redo the entire project. Just like you said now i go SLOW and make sure I'm taking my time and doing it right the first time so I don't have to go through that kind of mess again lol. Great video!
Another nice one, Jimmy!
After laying the intake gaskets down, the corner protruded ends of the gaskets lay on top of the gasket maker material. So the gaskets are bare in those corners. You should put a dab of gasket maker over each exposed corner of the gasket, to blend it in with the rest of your gasket maker application to make sure it is completely sealed on those ends.
When building up that much I use a center punch and I put 10-12 dimples in the block and intake “S” turns. Gives it a little extra to grip on.
As pitted as the coolant ports are, it’s a good idea to use rtv around the ports on the heads and intake manifold. In the meantime I would keep tabs on your oil & coolant cross contamination.
I have done this job many times for many years I put a 3/8 bead across and go up onto the intake gaskets just a bit and I spread a thin amount on the water ports with my finger
I remember on older engines like that the gasket set included a rubber gasket for the front and rear with rtv for the corners to fill any small gap at the ends of the rubber gasket.
Respect to Jimmy
Thank you; appreciated!
I did one years ago on a gen 1 350 prior to internet and the old guy that told me to use silicone I made the bead exactly like yours there only one thing he told me to different was to let it skin over first. So it didn’t all squeeze out all over the place. I still drive the same 350 once or twice a year it was my daily driver for years built motor at least 25 years ago still doesn’t leak at the intake manifold. But it does leak everywhere else. Hahaha great video.
Just at it down and smooth it out. Works for an air/fluid tight seal on all of the jobs I’ve done and it prevents excess amount from forming into the case
Great work as Always Jimmy @1Road
Thanks for the video. I think it's great to keep these older vehicles going. I'm not really interested in the complexity jump in cars after about 2010 to game the EPA fuel economy tests.
Same thing happened to me ONCE on a chevy 4.3. I learned from that mistake and now make sure it is VERY clean absolutely no oil on the surface where the gasket maker goes and let it dry overnight.
Proper torque sequence and pattern is important too. Both installing and removing
When I did mine, I made the same mistake. Mahle made a video about the Vortec intake gasket (which are notorious for failing) and cited "using too much rtv" as the number one mistake installers make. With that in mind, I used too little, and in the wrong spots. I've been putting off fixing it, but making quite the mess of my parking spot.
Yep, saw that in a few different videos too. It’s definitely good advice but being a perfectionist I took it a little too far and used about 1/4 of what it needed.
its what of those things you just got to experience. to much RTV gasket maker on a trans or diff rebuilt destroys them. To little on a intake causes a leak. Just got to experience it sometimes.
Mahle makes decent gaskets though that’s for sure
Applying the right amount of rtv, is somewhat of a science. This is why so many manufacturer's, have relied on machines to do it.
I did the same thing. Redid it with a bunch of sealer on the back wall. Fixed it! Better to put too much on the back.
When I worked on my older cars, I used gasket maker where it supposed to be used. I found out there is a difference between gasket maker and silicone sealant. Silicone tends to make things slide.
Great job! That engine sounds awesome. The SUV is sweet, better than new. 👍🏻
Thanks bud, gotta do a valve cover gasket myself for the same reason apparently.
Way to go! I think I know what I have to do this weekend!
Thank you 👍
(BTW, luckily, old Mopars have no coolant in intake man.)
Really? I learned something new today, thanks! 👍
@@1RoadGarage We learn more from you! I will always think of you when flushing steering fluid. No more turkey baster and wasted fluid. Thank you 👍. Best Memorial Weekend ✝️🇺🇸🙏
Permatex black rtv I use for most jobs and for most people the pressure cans are fine however I just get the full size caulk tube
Felpro makes legendary intake manifold gaskets, as for "gasket maker" there's using it to seal something up, then there's "making a gasket" with the stuff, letting it skin up as opposed to not and when
Great video, man.
Great job!! Second time around. 😂😂. We all seem to learn the hard way. 😮
ive had a few of these intakes off to say the least. i was able to pull off and put back on these guys in a few hrs tops depending on what i was doing for the repair. and i never had to remove one for oil leaks or coolant. one of the best things you can do when applying silicone sealant. put a big ole thick glob on. then go in circles with your finger smoothing it out and smearing it around. it should look like a nice weld a bunch or dimes stacked on eachother. i also put a ring of it around the coolant passages on the heads then put the gasket on so both sides of it get the silicone on it in the front and back. then one more ring of silicone around the coolant passages on the top of the gasket and set intake smoosh it around a little and start the bolts let it sit 5-10 mins till the outside gets a little tacky but doesnt come off on your finger when you touch it. you want it to have a skin but still be pliable and wet inside the skin. then torque it down. the last part of lettting it skin is almost as important as smearing it around neatly. no bubbles. the skin lets it compress before it squishes out so it really fills in the gaps instead of just push out. also when cleaning mating surfaces always try to scrape along the surface and not across. on the back of the motor i seen a gouge going from the lifter valley cavity to the outside of the motor. those can cause leak channels and may never seal. one of my friends learned that the hard way recently and created a fire hazard that leaked about 8 quarts of oil in an oil change interval.
Good tutorial on gasket maker bead..but I'm wondering if any fluid came out of the plug holes on dry starts..thank you
6:45 After applying the generous bead of silicon give it 5 minutes to 'skin' before installing manifold.
You also need a thin layer of silicon around the coolant ports, heads and manifold.
I give the silicon at least 24 hours to dry before adding coolant. I also install my water pump this way, just silicon no gasket, works every time.
Great video! Thank you!