@@1RoadGarage my grandfather was an old farmer. He always said if a man built it you can repair it. Pay attention to how it comes apart and you'll know how it goes back together. Last but not least never start with the most expensive repair first. People always think this is a disaster and will be so expensive. Often it's a simple fix start small work your way up. Thanks for posting quality videos.
@@rab3137 yes that is something I've always lived.....I constantly say and tell my children, if somebody else can do it, there's no reason I can't do it and do it better.... the main thing is not being afraid to try
Reminds me of my first timing belt job on my 2005 Pilot. Same, took me 2-3 days to put together in December of 2021. I had to tackle my intake manifold to change injectors. I was less nervous about it. Great job!
Jimmy. I've been repairing & rebuilding cars for almost 60 years, and I got to say you did a great job. Not only completing the job, but also giving a great play by play description on how to do it. Great job !!!
Just like many other seasoned veterans I'll also say good job. Don't worry about how long it takes you, the end result is what counts & you did a fantastic job. It's better to go at a comfortable pace & do it right the FIRST time rather than rush things & end up having to do it all over again. Looks like you keep things clean & organized, that right there does wonders for any job. It does pay off to label everything even if you think you know exactly where it all goes. Sometimes unforeseen circumstances cause you to take a break in the middle of the job & that's when labeling & documenting it all really pays off. The camera on your phone is a great tool to use in doing that. Pictures are worth a thousand words.
You did an excellent fantastic job from disassembly to labeling, to cleaning, to taking your time, to photographing, to reassembly. You r truly a perfectionist!
25 years ago I had a coolant leak on my 1995 , it was only a couple years old and I was in a pinch. I removed it, cleaned it and put it back together without gaskets just using Permatex Right Stuff. I only barely snugged the bolts up then let it cure for 24hrs. Then I torqued according to spec, haven't had any leaks or grief since and am well over 300k
Excellent job Jimmy! Been waiting to see this one. I've replaced the fuel injection Spyder on my '97 Suburban and that plastic plenum was painful. I wanted to do the whole intake but that distributor process had me nervous, so I never did. My '99 K2500 Suburban has the tiniest leak right in front where that gasket maker is poking out and I really want to do this job before heading out overlanding. Your video has given me the courage to try it as soon as my arm (rotator cuff surgery) is healed up. Thanks for sharing. Glad to see you back doing mechanic stuff again!
I've done so many of those I could do them in 30 minutes. It's best to just sit your intake onto the gaskets and start some bolts (don't tighten them all the way) so you can look and see how much glue you need. It will vary especially in cases of gasket changes, machining or block being decked.
I am a master automotive technician for 40 plus years tip you should have put rtv on both sides of the of the intake manifold gasket at the water ports and put some lubricant on the distributor drive gear love to watch your videos and have a blessed day today 🙏
I'm in the process of doing all this now..... waiting right now for new camshaft and lifters to come in...... I've never done anything beyond changing oil, plugs, rebuilding tbi, small tune up stuff like that..... I'm scared to death that it won't run when I get it back together but I have confidence in my work (at least I keep telling myself that lol).... Thanks for the video and if you wanna see my solution to oil cooler lines leaking, I posted a video......I think it's the best possible solution, at least it's better than anything I've seen yet... KEEP UP THE GOOD WORK!!
By the way, I have been on this for a month now, replacing ALL grounds, power steering pump, starter, intake gasket, valve covers, camshaft, etc etc..... thank God I work for myself and can take the time off or it would take me a year🤣🤣
Hey Jimmy, I got a 98’ Z71 with 225K miles on it now and I have had to do this twice. The 1st time I had a mechanic do it at around 120K and he explained that those 98’ 350s gaskets were notorious for going out around 100K because GM got some that were paper thin in places. At 215K, my father-in-law and I tackled it again because the gasket and gasket maker failed so bad the truck was acting like it had a vacuum leak! That was a full 10hr Saturday!
Nice. Pretty sure if I had to do it again and didn’t have to film the process, 10 hrs seems about right. 👍 The hardest part of the job is scraping the old gasket.
Been troubleshooting a high idle of my 5.7 350 Chevy G20 for a month now. I've replaced a ton of sensors, valves, and gaskets w no luck. I used your videos several times especially w removing and rebuilding the throttle body. Only thing i can think of now is that i have a vacuum leak at the intake manifold and need to replace the gaskets. This video is top notch. You really go all in w every detail and i can't thank you enough for making these videos so thoroughly. Not sure yet if i'll do this myself or take the van somewhere... it's honestly nerve racking both ways as i just don't just shops to actually do a good job no matter where i take it.. i've had so many bad experiences. So might end up just attempting this myself. Anyway, thanks for the excellent play by play you're a real champ for this.
you might try to just retorque the manifold bolts. I bet you could take some heavy cardboard and make a block off gasket to put between the throttlebody and use a vaccum pump to pull a vaccum on the intake but you would need to art least loosten the rocker arms to let all the valves close.
Awesome! Highfive dude. Fixin to tackle my 91 v2500 suburban.. watching this has helped clarify the unknown a bit for me aswell. Ive been following your videos and appreciate the time you put into these videos. Ive been through hell and back with my suburban though definitley wouldnt trade it or sell it for anything at this point. Been a sacrafice and learning curve that has changed my life. Its tough enough to find clear concise information for the DIYer so your videos really make a huge difference for some of us here on the tube. Thanks jimmy! Kudos and Keep on truckin!
Jimmy, with that die grinder to clean the intake manifold, thou that disc did work, 1 small slip could spell disaster. I highly recommend the 3M roloc bristle disc's, they are a plastic abrasive gasket cleaner. The attach right to the die grinder, and have 3 different "grits" green, yellow and white, the white one is a 120 grit that is great on aluminum. I use them almost everyday doing valve covers, diff covers and head gaskets in my engine shop. I highly recommend checking th out.
You did a great job explaining why and showing us where. Just an incredible job of being so thorough. Keep up the great work. A lot of people can benefit from this video.
MAN I love watching you do stuff! The problem is it motivates me to do stuff too. Then I spend all day in the garage and the wife gets crankier. HAHA! Thanks Jimmy!
I'm a plumber, nowhere near a mechanic, but actually able to apply some basic crossover principles, and I'm about to tackle the plenum upper and lower intake gaskets....2003 Ford e-150 4.2L Econoline .... Taking all of the tips from different videos for different tricks. Good idea with pics and labels!
Helluva job my friend. I deleted the egr because of all the gunk I found in my manifold. I thought it might run differently but I can’t tell any difference. Again, I was impressed with your thoughtfulness of your work!
You will only notice the egr in temperature extremes. (Really hot or really cold) The problem is created because the factory ecm accounts for a reduction in combustion temps that aren't there. Long term, you may get lower Long term Fuel Trims and maybe a CEL.
I like how you took your time and marked everything on the distributor, a friend of mine had a similar suburban to yours and he had to replace the engine,when he put his distributor back he was off exactly 180 degrees.
@@1RoadGarage it won't ruin anything it just won't start. One thing you didn't have to do was to set the engine at TDC. It doesn't matter where the distributor is when you pull it out AS LONG AS YOU MARK IT WHERE IT IS BEFORE YOU REMOVE IT (the capps were not meant as shouting but just to stress that you can do this just by marking the beginning and ending points of the rotor button. The only time you need to do what you did is if you had rotated the engine after you had removed the distributor. Other than that you did an excellent job as you always do.
@@1RoadGarage it ran rough on start up and backfired, then my friend’s dad flopped the distributor 180 degrees and it fired right up. Fortunately no noticeable damage from the few seconds it ran.
@@thatsonebadhatharry8610 I was wondering about that. If I simplify popped out that distributor and did the job and put it back in exactly as it was, how would the truck know any difference? Maybe it’s a default safety thing? 🤷♂️
@@1RoadGarage They start at top dead center if you just want to figure out where everything goes. Once you have the piston topped off during the compression stroke, then you know where to point your rotor. At #1. Then you use the timing light to position the rotor to the cap in the precise location that it requires to run properly. It's not nearly as complicated as it seems at first but if you visualize everything that's moving, and why, it makes sense in a pretty straightforward way.
if your going to replace the cap and rotor, you can drill a hole thru the cap into the rotor with an 1/8 drill bit for and alignment hole. Then just mark the distributer base where it contacts the block and it will be perfect.
I have a carbide edged scrapers that works miracles. They are called Super Scrapers. Well worth the money. Also I use thread sealant on the manifold bolts, the bosses are open in the valley so oil can seep through and up the threads of the bolts.
Great job. I have done this same job on a 1985 460 Ford engine. Process was almost identical. It takes time to do it right for sure. I took two days to do mine.
I had to do this on my TDI. You are very careful and document it well. However, I think a good engine degrease and thorough pressure wash prior would have made part of this much easier.
As a fellow '95 Chevy Truck owner, I will be performing the exact same procedure. As an auto mechanic for more than 22 years I can tell you that you did a great job. You have earned your first stripe. Thanks and take care.
at least 10 years or so ago, Holley had a larger 670CFM replacement throttle body available. There was an Edelbrock dual-plane intake with larger throttle body ports as well. Those were worthy upgrades on these TBI engines...did it in my chevy van!
Try 3M 18730 discs for cleaning cast and aluminum. No sanding grit being slung into the engine. GM came out with a bulletin saying not to use the sanding discs anymore. Just a thiught
A tip I learned a long time ago is to take a punch and make little divets along the sealing surface on the end rails of the block. Helps the RTV to have somewhere to squeeze into
Perfect timing for this video as I have to do this on my 1988 Chevy Silverado. I’ll be installing a new distributor and coil when I reinstall the intake manifold.
I'm currently doing head gaskets on a 4.3 vortec in my 97 Blazer. That means also doing the valve cover gaskets, lower intake manifold gaskets All gaskets, really. Also doing new rockers, push rods, valves and so on while I'm in there. It's a lot of fun.
Just for information, all BOSCH distributors have a factory made mark indicating where the centre of the rotor arm should be for cylinder 1 at top dead centre, its a small groove line on the top of the distributor body right under the cap, this mark used with the crankshaft timing marks can be used for static timing the ignition
Nice job. The only things I would have done differently would be cleaning the engine thoroughly, and replacing the valve cover gaskets before starting. My thinking is if I'm going through all of the hassle of replacing the intake manifold gasket, I'm going all the way and stopping any potential oil leaks from the valve covers too. On a side note, count me as someone who thinks that you probably skimped with the RTV sealant on the China walls. Whenever I watch the pros on other channels, including Engine Power, they always apply a thick bead, probably twice as thick as the bead you laid down. Anyhow I hope it lasts and wish you luck. Keep up the good work.
In fact it's not really necessary to put the crank at TDC firing #1 if you don't move the crank during your repair. It is only necessary to make the mark for the distributor position and the two rotor positions. Note though that on many engines the oil pump is turned via a drive rod that fits into the bottom end of the distributor drive gear. if you have gotten the distributor in correctly but it's not seating all the way into its hole then the pump shaft may have turned a bit. In this case once the distributor is in you'll need to turn the crank a bit to get the distributor end to line up with the pump shaft, the distributor will then fall into place. RTV isn't necessarily a big problem if a little of it falls into the engine, it's soft and it will simply get chewed up in the oil pump gears. Just don't get a big glob in there that could block or plug up some oil passage. Otherwise, very nice job.
@@Floyd12345 if it sets long enough and the intake valve happens to be open some you will get coolant on top of the piston, some will go on and leak past the rings but it could leave enough in the cylinder to liquid lock when the piston comes up and bend the rod, the thing is even if it starts the oil in the crankcase now has water in it and if enough water sets in the bottom it will get sucked up by the oil pump and go into the bearings and probably ruin the bearings and crankshaft.
chevy created this problem with the longlife coolant that erodes away the gasket around the waterports, chev also sells coolant maintenance sealer for their caddies and chevs actually just a stop leak to sort of fix it without pulling the manifold. if you do fix it dont use the gaskets that have the plastic or neophrene rubber molded in rings, just use normal gaskets or permatex right stuff on a really clean surface.
amazing attention to detail. Im a mechanic for a living and would welcome someone like you to work on my own vehicle.....as long as Im not paying hourly. lol
I'm going to have to do this soon I think. I have a GM 3800 Series 2, still using the orange coolant. Most of it is new as I lost a lot when I replaced the 2 plastic coolant elbows and again when I just replaced the water pump. I had to add a lot after replacing that. When I end up having to do the upper and lower intake gaskets I will flush it all out and put the regular green stuff in it.
If it runs the orange stuff from the factory it's probably not a good idea to change to another type. Coolants have different formulas for different engines. Make sure before you change, that green has the proper formulation for your engine.
Jimmy I did my upper and lower gasket replacement and power washing the intakes and cleaning the top part of the engine all in 13 hrs here at my apartment 98 Ford E250 van 4.2 liter V6 Essex engine
Just for the future, if you drench those cast intakes in LAs totally awesome, scrub it with a toothbrush, and rinse with hot water it will pull most of the oil and grime out of the cast and come out looking almost brand new
Great job... always slow doing something on a vehicle/motor.....still wanted you to do a meet-n-greet. I'm in Memphis and followed you for years now... would love to hangout with you on Broad Street or camping somewhere...thank you for all you do....
The gaskets that come with the FelPro 98000 set are far superior. They are aluminum with bonded rubber. The only problem is that you can only get them as part of that set, so they cost a bit more; however, it is well worth the investment as they will not fail as others do. It's all I use on SBC jobs. The 98000 is for Vortech intakes, but they also make one for the non-vortech intake.
if it leaks at the ends dont despair, just spray it with brake cleaner, let it dry and with your finger push more of the grey permatex up into the channel from one side to the other, let it dry on a warm day overnight and see how that works. dont stop till it is done from one side to the other, you will probably have to do the dist job again but it will go quicker the 2nd time around.
Did the job, took 3 days! but mine has 225k miles so lots of rust and corrosion at the water ports. Extra step for me was to tap all bolt holes and die all the bolts. My EGR was stuffed up too! I made the mistake of not installing the distributor at #1 compression stroke, was at the intake stroke. I still don’t understand how you can’t just take the dist out and install back where you found it (what I did) without setting at TDC. How does the dist know that? Anyways it’s daunting for sure but well worth stopping all the oil leaks. Mine had oil seeping up the bolts, make sure you put high temp thread sealant on the intake bolts!!!
Your local mechanic is not going to be as detailed and/or as concerned. Good job overall. I’m surprised you didn’t do the valve cover gaskets as you were already in there.
Great video. Your neighbours must be able to hear you yelling a block away 😉. I have to turn your videos way down. This looks a lot more involved than the one on my '99 6.0L. My son has a '95 K1500 4x4 with 330,000kms on it, but I'm not sure that we'll tackle this unless needed...😁
I did my first head gasket n intake gasket job on tbi motor a few years ago. Had hard time with getting timing correct even marked it lol easy motor to learn on👍
A bit late to the party, but thought I would add my 2 cents. I have the L05 5.7 engine 1989 Chevy K1500. To pull the distributor move crank pully to TDC on compression stroke. Two ways to determine... 1. Pull distributor cap, rotor needs to point to the front of the engine or toward cyl #1. 2. Use spark plug adapter and zip tie a finger off a rubber glove to it, turn crank until the finger expands, then continue moving the crank to line up the crank pully. Now mark the cap, distributor and base, so it lines up when installed. Do not move the crank until the distributor is reinstalled. If the distributor does not fall into place, use screwdriver to move the oil pump drive, however if you have to do that, possible you might be off a tooth.
Looks like you did a good job. My only advice would be careful about using the sanding discs they almost all contain aluminum oxide which can embed and damage engine bearings. Some will also leave the surface too course which can literally scrub off the gasket with thermal expansion over time. Secondly the only silicone I will use anymore is permatex right stuff 1 minute gasket maker. Trust me I’ve used it thousands of times. Lastly I’m a little more on the generous with the silicone and make sure to get it in the corners below and on top of the gasket.
Long ago, GM published a bulletin about the discs. The debris (disc and gasket and carbon) get thrown everywhere and can have a negative effect on engine bearing life, and can compromise flatness in some scenarios. The manifold I like to surface with a fine sanding block before getting it clean enough to eat off of. Cleaning the heads is the tedious part... The grey silicone (Yamabond and friends) is what most manufacturers use now...I use that or what is available. Toyota's black sealant is really nice too. Chevy's like to wick oil up the intake bolts...best to put a little white Permatex thread sealant on them... Agreeing with you and adding my 2 cents...
cleaning the manifold (both half's) took all day. The rtv, i like to cut a v shaped grove in the tip and lay the bead that way - sort of like doing a windshield
at the end you're talking about how hard this job was but I'm just thinking its normal mechanic stuff. remember to thank your mechs people! taking off an intake is a comparatively easy job on most cars. wait till you pull an engine, or do a timing belt.
The way you marked the distributor makes it a no Brainer , good job. I use the toyota rtv , I think it's the best you can buy.1/4 inch bead works perfect. Great video brother.
Just a tip be careful with those scotch brite wheels. I know you said you were, but they can definitely eat away at aluminum fast like you said. They also deposit abrasives, so never use them on head and block mating surfaces where those abrasives can get into the crank case.
Nothing like those "elephant in the room" repairs that start as a mild concern but you know very well you're going to have to address before it becomes a major problem. Anyone who's been forced to deal with the dreaded o-ring replacement on the oil pump pickup in the early 2000's GM full-size 4WD will know EXACTLY what I'm talking about.
Doing this on a TBI motor would be a vacation lol I had to do head gaskets on a 97' Tahoe with a Vortec and just getting to where the intake was removed was irritating. Re-assembly was even worse.
Funny how all these videos use Fel Pro gaskets for the intake manifold on these trucks. Before I started I emailed Fel Pro they said do not use our gaskets we don’t make proper gaskets for those years of trucks, then pull out the back rear ports you’ll notice the little pinhole in the Fel Pro gaskets. The OEM gaskets are the correct ones to use for this truck.
Last night I had to pull the intake off my b18 to put an iacv in lmfao. Its relocated and with a giant manifold I could not get it bolted on. I got the bolts out of the back of the skunk2 manifold, but couldn't get it on. I shoul've ran my lsvtec line better, along with a few other things that could've made it possible.
Imagine the labor to access the intake manifold. My Taurus was so simple it was an 06. This engineering and planning had no thought of maintenance imo.
One thing I want to make you aware of these engines are pretty much bullet proof they're well built but make sure you change the rod and main bearings the reason is that that's there major fail when they do fail. It's not very common but does happen anytime I buy a used Chevy truck that's the first thing I do not cause it needs it but parts do wear over time and this will keep you from having catastrophic failure and the parts aren't expensive the job is pretty easy to. Also while you're there go ahead and replace the oil pump too there's nothing better than knowing you'll have no major issues that could cause you too spend a lot of money
I'm restoring a 1971 citroen van and need to replace the intake manifold gasket. What material should the intake manifold gasket be made of? I tried some gasket maker materials but they failed.
i had to spray guide coat over the alum manifold intake ports and sand it to get the manifold flat so it would seal. my intake gasket sagged down into the engine producing a massive vac leak - my had would stick to the oil filler tube under the vacuum! Idle was at 1500rpm with that leak.
It’s only a 200 hp motor …to the flywheel. Let it burn up and the LS swap it 👍… lol na. I’ve been a long time subscriber and watcher of your channel. I always enjoy your content 👍
Before you take anything apart, take out your cell phone and take several pictures. Try to get 2 angles of every disconnect, hose routing, anything that looks "busy". Lots of busy under Jimmy's air filter. Most of the time it is NOT necessary to label connectors. There is almost always enough difference in them and were they lay that getting them mixed up is not the problem, it's getting the routing right going back together...PICTURES. I'm not telling novices not to label connectors though. If you do, make sure to remove them when you are done so you don't have a gooey mess to clean up 2 weeks later.
Hi Jimmy When it comes to a liquid gasket maker like silicone sealant the fine line is have I put enough on or have I put too much on. The rule of thumb in the olden days before 1996 electronics is one third of the flange width is the maximum width of the sealant to be put down the minimum amount of sealant is one quarter of the width of the flange. Nower day's it is between 2mm and 6mm of sealant depending on manufacturers specifications like the vehicle manufacturers says 3mm but the manufacturers of the silicone says 5mm so first attempt you go with vehicle spec it starts to leak, then you try the silicone spec it is too much, so 3rd try in between let's try 4mm it dose the trick. The vehicle manufacturers silicone is of a denser mix than the after market ones, plus the factory gunk always splurges out they are never a clean look so they don't care on how much is put on just is it sealed. But most of all Jimmy very good, clean work you are showing the not so friendly mechanic's to shame in how to do the job correctly and cleanly.
Thank you for your comment. I agree with you, during my ‘research’ I found many different ways of doing it. Ultimately came down to what I thought was the correct method but of course second guessed myself once it was done. I don’t know why those two areas can’t have a rubberized pre-made gasket that we can set into place though??
Just wait until you find out that it will start leaking again after 1 year. Not a perfect design. Nice work anyway! Edit: I would be sure to verify ignition timing! I like to run these trucks 1-2° advanced.
Nothing better than finishing a job the first time with good results. The hardest part of most jobs is taking the risk into the unknown.
Yep. Felt good. Thanks 👍
@@1RoadGarage my grandfather was an old farmer. He always said if a man built it you can repair it. Pay attention to how it comes apart and you'll know how it goes back together. Last but not least never start with the most expensive repair first. People always think this is a disaster and will be so expensive. Often it's a simple fix start small work your way up. Thanks for posting quality videos.
@@rab3137 I like that, “if a man built it, you can repair it”. I’m gonna remember that one. Thanks for the tips.
@@rab3137 yes that is something I've always lived.....I constantly say and tell my children, if somebody else can do it, there's no reason I can't do it and do it better.... the main thing is not being afraid to try
Reminds me of my first timing belt job on my 2005 Pilot. Same, took me 2-3 days to put together in December of 2021. I had to tackle my intake manifold to change injectors. I was less nervous about it.
Great job!
Jimmy. I've been repairing & rebuilding cars for almost 60 years, and I got to say you did a great job. Not only completing the job, but also giving a great play by play description on how to do it. Great job !!!
Thank you for that. 🤙
sure ! he really has a great teacher approach 👏🏻👍🏻
Just like many other seasoned veterans I'll also say good job. Don't worry about how long it takes you, the end result is what counts & you did a fantastic job. It's better to go at a comfortable pace & do it right the FIRST time rather than rush things & end up having to do it all over again. Looks like you keep things clean & organized, that right there does wonders for any job. It does pay off to label everything even if you think you know exactly where it all goes. Sometimes unforeseen circumstances cause you to take a break in the middle of the job & that's when labeling & documenting it all really pays off. The camera on your phone is a great tool to use in doing that. Pictures are worth a thousand words.
You did an excellent fantastic job from disassembly to labeling, to cleaning, to taking your time, to photographing, to reassembly. You r truly a perfectionist!
You have faced your fear and come out victorious in the end.
Congratulations !!!!
25 years ago I had a coolant leak on my 1995 , it was only a couple years old and I was in a pinch. I removed it, cleaned it and put it back together without gaskets just using Permatex Right Stuff. I only barely snugged the bolts up then let it cure for 24hrs. Then I torqued according to spec, haven't had any leaks or grief since and am well over 300k
Right Stuff is amazing stuff!
Excellent job Jimmy! Been waiting to see this one. I've replaced the fuel injection Spyder on my '97 Suburban and that plastic plenum was painful. I wanted to do the whole intake but that distributor process had me nervous, so I never did. My '99 K2500 Suburban has the tiniest leak right in front where that gasket maker is poking out and I really want to do this job before heading out overlanding. Your video has given me the courage to try it as soon as my arm (rotator cuff surgery) is healed up. Thanks for sharing. Glad to see you back doing mechanic stuff again!
I've done so many of those I could do them in 30 minutes. It's best to just sit your intake onto the gaskets and start some bolts (don't tighten them all the way) so you can look and see how much glue you need. It will vary especially in cases of gasket changes, machining or block being decked.
I am a master automotive technician for 40 plus years tip you should have put rtv on both sides of the of the intake manifold gasket at the water ports and put some lubricant on the distributor drive gear love to watch your videos and have a blessed day today 🙏
I'm in the process of doing all this now..... waiting right now for new camshaft and lifters to come in......
I've never done anything beyond changing oil, plugs, rebuilding tbi, small tune up stuff like that..... I'm scared to death that it won't run when I get it back together but I have confidence in my work (at least I keep telling myself that lol)....
Thanks for the video and if you wanna see my solution to oil cooler lines leaking, I posted a video......I think it's the best possible solution, at least it's better than anything I've seen yet...
KEEP UP THE GOOD WORK!!
By the way, I have been on this for a month now, replacing ALL grounds, power steering pump, starter, intake gasket, valve covers, camshaft, etc etc..... thank God I work for myself and can take the time off or it would take me a year🤣🤣
Hey Jimmy, I got a 98’ Z71 with 225K miles on it now and I have had to do this twice. The 1st time I had a mechanic do it at around 120K and he explained that those 98’ 350s gaskets were notorious for going out around 100K because GM got some that were paper thin in places. At 215K, my father-in-law and I tackled it again because the gasket and gasket maker failed so bad the truck was acting like it had a vacuum leak! That was a full 10hr Saturday!
Nice. Pretty sure if I had to do it again and didn’t have to film the process, 10 hrs seems about right. 👍 The hardest part of the job is scraping the old gasket.
I have done my 98 twice, it is painful. I upgraded the fuel injector spider as well.
This guy is the Sawyer Brown of intake R&R. Great job - should be on TV.
Been troubleshooting a high idle of my 5.7 350 Chevy G20 for a month now. I've replaced a ton of sensors, valves, and gaskets w no luck. I used your videos several times especially w removing and rebuilding the throttle body. Only thing i can think of now is that i have a vacuum leak at the intake manifold and need to replace the gaskets. This video is top notch. You really go all in w every detail and i can't thank you enough for making these videos so thoroughly. Not sure yet if i'll do this myself or take the van somewhere... it's honestly nerve racking both ways as i just don't just shops to actually do a good job no matter where i take it.. i've had so many bad experiences. So might end up just attempting this myself. Anyway, thanks for the excellent play by play you're a real champ for this.
you might try to just retorque the manifold bolts. I bet you could take some heavy cardboard and make a block off gasket to put between the throttlebody and use a vaccum pump to pull a vaccum on the intake but you would need to art least loosten the rocker arms to let all the valves close.
Awesome! Highfive dude. Fixin to tackle my 91 v2500 suburban.. watching this has helped clarify the unknown a bit for me aswell. Ive been following your videos and appreciate the time you put into these videos. Ive been through hell and back with my suburban though definitley wouldnt trade it or sell it for anything at this point. Been a sacrafice and learning curve that has changed my life. Its tough enough to find clear concise information for the DIYer so your videos really make a huge difference for some of us here on the tube. Thanks jimmy! Kudos and Keep on truckin!
Jimmy, with that die grinder to clean the intake manifold, thou that disc did work, 1 small slip could spell disaster. I highly recommend the 3M roloc bristle disc's, they are a plastic abrasive gasket cleaner. The attach right to the die grinder, and have 3 different "grits" green, yellow and white, the white one is a 120 grit that is great on aluminum. I use them almost everyday doing valve covers, diff covers and head gaskets in my engine shop. I highly recommend checking th out.
You did a great job explaining why and showing us where. Just an incredible job of being so thorough. Keep up the great work.
A lot of people can benefit from this video.
Nice Job Jimmy! It's good to see you back wrenching on your vehicles!
It definitely feels good to be working. 👍
Oh my god, that thing is so clean and rust-free, must be a dream to work on!
The money saved is well worth it ! GOOD JOB ! Pictures also help out with replacement
U have every good mechanics thoughts get it done triple check everything u did talking to ur self helps a lot 💯 reconfirms every thing 😂
MAN I love watching you do stuff! The problem is it motivates me to do stuff too. Then I spend all day in the garage and the wife gets crankier. HAHA! Thanks Jimmy!
I did that exact job on the side of the road in a school bus , took 4 hours... It's been 4 years and still going strong
I'm a plumber, nowhere near a mechanic, but actually able to apply some basic crossover principles, and I'm about to tackle the plenum upper and lower intake gaskets....2003 Ford e-150 4.2L Econoline .... Taking all of the tips from different videos for different tricks. Good idea with pics and labels!
Doing your own repairs is an excellent idea, because it enables rapidly amassing a varied collection of spare parts for future repairs.
Helluva job my friend. I deleted the egr because of all the gunk I found in my manifold. I thought it might run differently but I can’t tell any difference. Again, I was impressed with your thoughtfulness of your work!
You will only notice the egr in temperature extremes. (Really hot or really cold) The problem is created because the factory ecm accounts for a reduction in combustion temps that aren't there. Long term, you may get lower Long term Fuel Trims and maybe a CEL.
Man, I recall the first time I put the distributor back in my 350. The notch for the oil pump moved a little and had me stumped for a while. 😂
I was hoping that wouldn’t happen to me. 👍
I like how you took your time and marked everything on the distributor, a friend of mine had a similar suburban to yours and he had to replace the engine,when he put his distributor back he was off exactly 180 degrees.
What does that do exactly? Did it ruin anything or just not start?
@@1RoadGarage it won't ruin anything it just won't start. One thing you didn't have to do was to set the engine at TDC. It doesn't matter where the distributor is when you pull it out AS LONG AS YOU MARK IT WHERE IT IS BEFORE YOU REMOVE IT (the capps were not meant as shouting but just to stress that you can do this just by marking the beginning and ending points of the rotor button. The only time you need to do what you did is if you had rotated the engine after you had removed the distributor. Other than that you did an excellent job as you always do.
@@1RoadGarage it ran rough on start up and backfired, then my friend’s dad flopped the distributor 180 degrees and it fired right up. Fortunately no noticeable damage from the few seconds it ran.
@@thatsonebadhatharry8610 I was wondering about that. If I simplify popped out that distributor and did the job and put it back in exactly as it was, how would the truck know any difference? Maybe it’s a default safety thing? 🤷♂️
@@1RoadGarage
They start at top dead center if you just want to figure out where everything goes. Once you have the piston topped off during the compression stroke, then you know where to point your rotor.
At #1. Then you use the timing light to position the rotor to the cap in the precise location that it requires to run properly. It's not nearly as complicated as it seems at first but if you visualize everything that's moving, and why, it makes sense in a pretty straightforward way.
if your going to replace the cap and rotor, you can drill a hole thru the cap into the rotor with an 1/8 drill bit for and alignment hole. Then just mark the distributer base where it contacts the block and it will be perfect.
Jimmy, looks like you did a very thorough job in replacing the intake manifold gasket. Something you don’t want to rush.
I have a carbide edged scrapers that works miracles. They are called Super Scrapers. Well worth the money. Also I use thread sealant on the manifold bolts, the bosses are open in the valley so oil can seep through and up the threads of the bolts.
Great job. I have done this same job on a 1985 460 Ford engine. Process was almost identical. It takes time to do it right for sure. I took two days to do mine.
Great video, as someone getting ready to try this for the first time, you hit on all the concerns I had with the process.
great camera work. very good demonstration. i like that wild little crowfoot you used!
Harbor Freight for that one. Good tool. 👍
I had to do this on my TDI. You are very careful and document it well. However, I think a good engine degrease and thorough pressure wash prior would have made part of this much easier.
As a fellow '95 Chevy Truck owner, I will be performing the exact same procedure. As an auto mechanic for more than 22 years I can tell you that you did a great job. You have earned your first stripe. Thanks and take care.
at least 10 years or so ago, Holley had a larger 670CFM replacement throttle body available. There was an Edelbrock dual-plane intake with larger throttle body ports as well. Those were worthy upgrades on these TBI engines...did it in my chevy van!
Try 3M 18730 discs for cleaning cast and aluminum. No sanding grit being slung into the engine. GM came out with a bulletin saying not to use the sanding discs anymore. Just a thiught
Good to know, thanks!
A tip I learned a long time ago is to take a punch and make little divets along the sealing surface on the end rails of the block. Helps the RTV to have somewhere to squeeze into
Perfect timing for this video as I have to do this on my 1988 Chevy Silverado. I’ll be installing a new distributor and coil when I reinstall the intake manifold.
I'm currently doing head gaskets on a 4.3 vortec in my 97 Blazer. That means also doing the valve cover gaskets, lower intake manifold gaskets All gaskets, really. Also doing new rockers, push rods, valves and so on while I'm in there. It's a lot of fun.
Just for information, all BOSCH distributors have a factory made mark indicating where the centre of the rotor arm should be for cylinder 1 at top dead centre, its a small groove line on the top of the distributor body right under the cap, this mark used with the crankshaft timing marks can be used for static timing the ignition
Nice job. The only things I would have done differently would be cleaning the engine thoroughly, and replacing the valve cover gaskets before starting. My thinking is if I'm going through all of the hassle of replacing the intake manifold gasket, I'm going all the way and stopping any potential oil leaks from the valve covers too.
On a side note, count me as someone who thinks that you probably skimped with the RTV sealant on the China walls. Whenever I watch the pros on other channels, including Engine Power, they always apply a thick bead, probably twice as thick as the bead you laid down. Anyhow I hope it lasts and wish you luck. Keep up the good work.
I agree. That's going to leak oil in the near future and now will be able to redo in half the time. Good job other than that
In fact it's not really necessary to put the crank at TDC firing #1 if you don't move the crank during your repair. It is only necessary to make the mark for the distributor position and the two rotor positions. Note though that on many engines the oil pump is turned via a drive rod that fits into the bottom end of the distributor drive gear. if you have gotten the distributor in correctly but it's not seating all the way into its hole then the pump shaft may have turned a bit. In this case once the distributor is in you'll need to turn the crank a bit to get the distributor end to line up with the pump shaft, the distributor will then fall into place.
RTV isn't necessarily a big problem if a little of it falls into the engine, it's soft and it will simply get chewed up in the oil pump gears. Just don't get a big glob in there that could block or plug up some oil passage.
Otherwise, very nice job.
I'm burning coolant out my tail pipes and loosing coolant with no leaks. 1995 gmc 350.
@@Floyd12345 you have a leak from the coolant passage to the cylinder
@@Floyd12345 if it sets long enough and the intake valve happens to be open some you will get coolant on top of the piston, some will go on and leak past the rings but it could leave enough in the cylinder to liquid lock when the piston comes up and bend the rod, the thing is even if it starts the oil in the crankcase now has water in it and if enough water sets in the bottom it will get sucked up by the oil pump and go into the bearings and probably ruin the bearings and crankshaft.
chevy created this problem with the longlife coolant that erodes away the gasket around the waterports, chev also sells coolant maintenance sealer for their caddies and chevs actually just a stop leak to sort of fix it without pulling the manifold. if you do fix it dont use the gaskets that have the plastic or neophrene rubber molded in rings, just use normal gaskets or permatex right stuff on a really clean surface.
amazing attention to detail. Im a mechanic for a living and would welcome someone like you to work on my own vehicle.....as long as Im not paying hourly. lol
I'm going to have to do this soon I think. I have a GM 3800 Series 2, still using the orange coolant. Most of it is new as I lost a lot when I replaced the 2 plastic coolant elbows and again when I just replaced the water pump. I had to add a lot after replacing that. When I end up having to do the upper and lower intake gaskets I will flush it all out and put the regular green stuff in it.
If it runs the orange stuff from the factory it's probably not a good idea to change to another type. Coolants have different formulas for different engines. Make sure before you change, that green has the proper formulation for your engine.
Job well done man don’t worry you did a good job keep on trucking
Thanks! 👍
Jimmy I did my upper and lower gasket replacement and power washing the intakes and cleaning the top part of the engine all in 13 hrs here at my apartment 98 Ford E250 van 4.2 liter V6 Essex engine
Great Job! C1500 Suburban here!
Nice man!
Great job explaining the whole job
Did my best, thanks. 👍
Good job ! The oil pump drive sometimes rotates after dist. removal . Can move it back with a blade screw driver .
Just for the future, if you drench those cast intakes in LAs totally awesome, scrub it with a toothbrush, and rinse with hot water it will pull most of the oil and grime out of the cast and come out looking almost brand new
You are right but it's worth it and it's coming out perfect I'm almost ready to put it back I appreciate your video I've gained a lot of knowledge
I never imaginedtakingsll that apart.
'm proud of you.
Haha, thanks!
Great job... always slow doing something on a vehicle/motor.....still wanted you to do a meet-n-greet. I'm in Memphis and followed you for years now... would love to hangout with you on Broad Street or camping somewhere...thank you for all you do....
The gaskets that come with the FelPro 98000 set are far superior. They are aluminum with bonded rubber. The only problem is that you can only get them as part of that set, so they cost a bit more; however, it is well worth the investment as they will not fail as others do. It's all I use on SBC jobs. The 98000 is for Vortech intakes, but they also make one for the non-vortech intake.
Good job man I'd rather see man take his time rather than have to redo later. About do one myself. Ty
if it leaks at the ends dont despair, just spray it with brake cleaner, let it dry and with your finger push more of the grey permatex up into the channel from one side to the other, let it dry on a warm day overnight and see how that works. dont stop till it is done from one side to the other, you will probably have to do the dist job again but it will go quicker the 2nd time around.
Did the job, took 3 days! but mine has 225k miles so lots of rust and corrosion at the water ports. Extra step for me was to tap all bolt holes and die all the bolts. My EGR was stuffed up too! I made the mistake of not installing the distributor at #1 compression stroke, was at the intake stroke. I still don’t understand how you can’t just take the dist out and install back where you found it (what I did) without setting at TDC. How does the dist know that? Anyways it’s daunting for sure but well worth stopping all the oil leaks. Mine had oil seeping up the bolts, make sure you put high temp thread sealant on the intake bolts!!!
Your local mechanic is not going to be as detailed and/or as concerned. Good job overall. I’m surprised you didn’t do the valve cover gaskets as you were already in there.
Great video. Your neighbours must be able to hear you yelling a block away 😉. I have to turn your videos way down. This looks a lot more involved than the one on my '99 6.0L. My son has a '95 K1500 4x4 with 330,000kms on it, but I'm not sure that we'll tackle this unless needed...😁
Looks good. I dropped my steering wheel and pulled my dash out to replace a heater coor. That's also a lot of time.
I did my first head gasket n intake gasket job on tbi motor a few years ago. Had hard time with getting timing correct even marked it lol easy motor to learn on👍
The timing scared me but it worked out thankfully.
A bit late to the party, but thought I would add my 2 cents. I have the L05 5.7 engine 1989 Chevy K1500. To pull the distributor move crank pully to TDC on compression stroke. Two ways to determine... 1. Pull distributor cap, rotor needs to point to the front of the engine or toward cyl #1. 2. Use spark plug adapter and zip tie a finger off a rubber glove to it, turn crank until the finger expands, then continue moving the crank to line up the crank pully. Now mark the cap, distributor and base, so it lines up when installed. Do not move the crank until the distributor is reinstalled. If the distributor does not fall into place, use screwdriver to move the oil pump drive, however if you have to do that, possible you might be off a tooth.
Looks like you did a excellent job! Next should be the valve cover gaskets.
Looks like you did a good job. My only advice would be careful about using the sanding discs they almost all contain aluminum oxide which can embed and damage engine bearings. Some will also leave the surface too course which can literally scrub off the gasket with thermal expansion over time.
Secondly the only silicone I will use anymore is permatex right stuff 1 minute gasket maker. Trust me I’ve used it thousands of times.
Lastly I’m a little more on the generous with the silicone and make sure to get it in the corners below and on top of the gasket.
Long ago, GM published a bulletin about the discs. The debris (disc and gasket and carbon) get thrown everywhere and can have a negative effect on engine bearing life, and can compromise flatness in some scenarios. The manifold I like to surface with a fine sanding block before getting it clean enough to eat off of. Cleaning the heads is the tedious part...
The grey silicone (Yamabond and friends) is what most manufacturers use now...I use that or what is available. Toyota's black sealant is really nice too.
Chevy's like to wick oil up the intake bolts...best to put a little white Permatex thread sealant on them...
Agreeing with you and adding my 2 cents...
I replaced my factory plastic distributer while i was at it - thats another winner
You can also do a final wipe with acetone before applying rtv.
Little late now. It's all done
cleaning the manifold (both half's) took all day.
The rtv, i like to cut a v shaped grove in the tip and lay the bead that way - sort of like doing a windshield
Right?? Those gaskets are the worst!!
Jimmy is a wonderful person. 😊 I wonder if he was named after the GMC Jimmy? 😮
Side note tip, ame intl quick valve change tool.Engine Restore for good compression.
at the end you're talking about how hard this job was but I'm just thinking its normal mechanic stuff. remember to thank your mechs people! taking off an intake is a comparatively easy job on most cars. wait till you pull an engine, or do a timing belt.
The way you marked the distributor makes it a no Brainer , good job. I use the toyota rtv , I think it's the best you can buy.1/4 inch bead works perfect.
Great video brother.
Did that job a few times, you'll be fine. It will leak most likely, after a year or so. Good luck
Just a tip be careful with those scotch brite wheels. I know you said you were, but they can definitely eat away at aluminum fast like you said. They also deposit abrasives, so never use them on head and block mating surfaces where those abrasives can get into the crank case.
Nothing like those "elephant in the room" repairs that start as a mild concern but you know very well you're going to have to address before it becomes a major problem. Anyone who's been forced to deal with the dreaded o-ring replacement on the oil pump pickup in the early 2000's GM full-size 4WD will know EXACTLY what I'm talking about.
Did my 93, this job is a giant pain getting everything clean and reinstalled correctly
Great job! Would’ve been a good time to throw an aftermarket Edelbrock on there, though, with a bigger throttlebody for more horsepower!
Doing this on a TBI motor would be a vacation lol I had to do head gaskets on a 97' Tahoe with a Vortec and just getting to where the intake was removed was irritating. Re-assembly was even worse.
Funny how all these videos use Fel Pro gaskets for the intake manifold on these trucks. Before I started I emailed Fel Pro they said do not use our gaskets we don’t make proper gaskets for those years of trucks, then pull out the back rear ports you’ll notice the little pinhole in the Fel Pro gaskets. The OEM gaskets are the correct ones to use for this truck.
You probably could have used a carbide scraper for the gasket removal. Amazon has quite a few. Nice job!
I have seen those sanding disks destroy engine bearings. I haven't used them on internal surfaces for years.
Last night I had to pull the intake off my b18 to put an iacv in lmfao. Its relocated and with a giant manifold I could not get it bolted on. I got the bolts out of the back of the skunk2 manifold, but couldn't get it on. I shoul've ran my lsvtec line better, along with a few other things that could've made it possible.
wow great vid Jimmy, that's what Im talking about
Glad you liked it! 👍
Imagine the labor to access the intake manifold. My Taurus was so simple it was an 06. This engineering and planning had no thought of maintenance imo.
One thing I want to make you aware of these engines are pretty much bullet proof they're well built but make sure you change the rod and main bearings the reason is that that's there major fail when they do fail. It's not very common but does happen anytime I buy a used Chevy truck that's the first thing I do not cause it needs it but parts do wear over time and this will keep you from having catastrophic failure and the parts aren't expensive the job is pretty easy to. Also while you're there go ahead and replace the oil pump too there's nothing better than knowing you'll have no major issues that could cause you too spend a lot of money
I'm restoring a 1971 citroen van and need to replace the intake manifold gasket. What material should the intake manifold gasket be made of? I tried some gasket maker materials but they failed.
Attention to detail!! Also, super handsome guy.❤
i had to spray guide coat over the alum manifold intake ports and sand it to get the manifold flat so it would seal. my intake gasket sagged down into the engine producing a massive vac leak - my had would stick to the oil filler tube under the vacuum! Idle was at 1500rpm with that leak.
It’s only a 200 hp motor …to the flywheel. Let it burn up and the LS swap it 👍… lol na. I’ve been a long time subscriber and watcher of your channel. I always enjoy your content 👍
You should have used pipe sealant on the corner bolts due to the holes going into the coolant passage.
Yeah, being a perfectionist has its downside, on the other hand, well done.
Before you take anything apart, take out your cell phone and take several pictures. Try to get 2 angles of every disconnect, hose routing, anything that looks "busy". Lots of busy under Jimmy's air filter.
Most of the time it is NOT necessary to label connectors. There is almost always enough difference in them and were they lay that getting them mixed up is not the problem, it's getting the routing right going back together...PICTURES. I'm not telling novices not to label connectors though. If you do, make sure to remove them when you are done so you don't have a gooey mess to clean up 2 weeks later.
Nice work. You make me miss my old Chevelle sm block.
Since it was all apart, did you upgrade to MPFI ? And get rid of those poppit fuel injectors ?
It's not port fuel injection
Is there a detail issue turning the motor back off top dead center or just as is restart?
Ya did that lots of times that's a long time ha learn as you go and fill comfortable with
Hi Jimmy
When it comes to a liquid gasket maker like silicone sealant the fine line is have I put enough on or have I put too much on.
The rule of thumb in the olden days before 1996 electronics is one third of the flange width is the maximum width of the sealant to be put down the minimum amount of sealant is one quarter of the width of the flange.
Nower day's it is between 2mm and 6mm of sealant depending on manufacturers specifications like the vehicle manufacturers says 3mm but the manufacturers of the silicone says 5mm so first attempt you go with vehicle spec it starts to leak, then you try the silicone spec it is too much, so 3rd try in between let's try 4mm it dose the trick.
The vehicle manufacturers silicone is of a denser mix than the after market ones, plus the factory gunk always splurges out they are never a clean look so they don't care on how much is put on just is it sealed.
But most of all Jimmy very good, clean work you are showing the not so friendly mechanic's to shame in how to do the job correctly and cleanly.
Thank you for your comment. I agree with you, during my ‘research’ I found many different ways of doing it. Ultimately came down to what I thought was the correct method but of course second guessed myself once it was done. I don’t know why those two areas can’t have a rubberized pre-made gasket that we can set into place though??
I like tearing apart all the cars that I buy, its like a puzzle but giant xD
Did you have to use any thread sealant on the intake bolts ?
Just wait until you find out that it will start leaking again after 1 year. Not a perfect design. Nice work anyway!
Edit: I would be sure to verify ignition timing! I like to run these trucks 1-2° advanced.