How to Install an Intake Manifold - Roadkill Extra
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- Опубликовано: 1 июл 2024
- It’s official: the “How to Build Your First Engine Series” is over! This is the final episode, as David Freiburger and Steve Dulcich wrap up their engine project for Roadkill Garage’s Vanishing Paint 1970 Dodge Challenger by installing the intake manifold and giving you plenty of advice as they go. Now it’s back to the regular programming on our daily Roadkill Extra vlog show-but stay tuned for future episodes of Roadkill Garage to see this Mopar V-8 get installed and running!
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As you watch, cruise over to Facebook.com/RoadkillShow, follow us, and watch for future posts asking for your questions to be answered on the Q&A sessions that are posted every Friday on Roadkill Extra Powered by Dodge. 
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"start on the inside and work your way out." As he cranks the four corners first 😂
Dull check stripped the fuck out of that last bolt you can see it in his face he’s like “fuck....” 😂😂😂
MrMexicutioner18 with a speed handle? No way lol
Derek Coiner aluminum heads breh.
Still no way, you have so little leverage with one of those.
Those threads are stripped to fuck now. Hahaha. His face was brilliant when he realised!
I think he just cross threaded that bolt.
I feel empowered! I was actually just outside working on my $450 Lemon's Special 1993 Eagle Summit DL (doing exhaust work and thermostat replacement) and when I went under to take off the lower radiator hose to drain the coolant I noticed that both control arms are completely rotted. Came inside to absorb the shock of what I just found and said to myself "I need to hear some Roadkill to give me the motivation to continue to work on this junk."
Back outside I go, thanks guys!
Because Roadkill...
Bad Boy Adventures reason why I still work on my truck
ponytail Dulcich is my spirit animal.
Beaver? Muskrat? Woodchuck? Marmot?
Dulcheck
You can tell when two people know what their doing, it becomes a sophisticated, endless conversation of information.👍
the ending was funny. Bolts did not align after all.
Yeah, and Dulcich did a really good job of playing it off like it wasn't happening. lol
If you expected anything more from these two you just be new here.
Oh hell no, this is RoadKill after all! lol In this episode though, they were really milking the "depth" they were getting into. Plus, usually they don't even try to hide their mistakes!
SPOILER
looked like he cross threaded it
The end had me laughing . Dulich face when he cross threaded
Looked like a guilt ridden psychopath 👀.
After watching you guys goop that thing I feel MUCH better about installing my own intakes.
As far as sealants go, I used gray RTV on the end seals (I used the cork gaskets, they worked great), copper RTV on the heat riser ports (could be gray, since it won't get as hot as exhaust) and aviation gasket maker / high-tack / Indian head shellac around the intake ports. All of those are insoluble in gasoline and I have used them on both my 302 and several straight sixes.
IF you're having a problem with a certain gasket not sealing, like these cork manifold gaskets and you hate oil/water leaks, want a 100% leak free seal, you can try this method. It's not quick but it's easy, the thing is you have to prepare the gaskets a day ahead of assembly, I like the ultra gray silicone, I use a razor blade and smear a very thin coat of silicone on both sides pushing very hard to embed the silicone and make it stick, hang the gaskets and let them dry completely. When you assemble parts you apply another thin bead of silicone to both sides again, make sure parts surfaces are cleaned with brake clean or paint prep spray to remove all dirt, oil, grease, etc, assemble and lightly torque bolts, wait for silicone to dry/cure several hours before final torque of bolts and you'll have a leak free seal. I've used this method on oil pan, water pump, intake, and many other gaskets and can get 100% seal if done right.
You can use this method on header collector gaskets that seem to always leak, take two gaskets, smear a thick coating of the high temp silicone between the two gaskets and another coating on the outside of the sandwiched gaskets, making 5 layers, 3 of silicone and the two gaskets, making a "gasket" that's about 1/2 thick, let dry completely before install and you can get 100% leak free seal on the header collector.
thanks will b using this tip,,
Place the bead of sealant in the corners BEFORE you place the cork.
That intake came right back off as soon as the camera stopped rolling. Lol. Dulcich has become on of my favorites. Dude is a precision guru.........
The timing of finding this video while doing this Edelbrock top end installation on my 360 now is impeccable!
Love watching these two, they work well together!
Good info fellas, thanks. Well presented. Was just figuring out the exhaust crossover dilemma on my own engine, so, timely. Dulcich, you are in your element -- was cool to watch. You'd be a good guy to build a motor with -- "I think the sealing area is back here" he says politely.
Great job guys! Future generations of growing hot rodders will thanks you.. You are Legends
Make sure manifold bolts are tight or the floor pan might fall off.
Took me a second to get the joke.
What I've experienced is at the corners, you need to use TRS there BEFORE you put ANY gaskets on !!! There is a valley there that you need to fill in. Then go with the gaskets, which creates another opening, and THEN do the corners again to cover that ! Using Edelbrock gaskets. Hiding a valley at the corners with the ends of the gaskets and doping on top of the gasket corner, won't get it done. Use the Grey ONLY.
I don't use end gaskets, just a thick bead of Grey on the block rails and also a bead on the front and rear of the intake so they will smash seal. Line up your marks on the intake and heads that you made on the dry run, for a good alignment and drop the bolts in with assembly lube under the bolt head and washers, and top of intake bolt hole, only, so nothing digs in and effects your torque reading.
Leave the bolts threads dry without garbage RTV on the threads. Use it and it can get you in the end. You'll have a mess! The factory didn't do it !! I use an all thread type Grade 8 bolts, no shoulder, with thick grade 8 washers.
Torque the bolts in proper sequence, but stop half way to total. WAIT a couple of hours at least, then finish torqueing. Now, there is torque on your seal. This is what makes the Grey so good ! Recheck later !
Magnum 360 and LA 360 Mopar motors, have completely different specs and sequences !
Don't mix them up.
This was helpful info. Thanks
what is TRS if i may ask , trying to learn before i put mines on this week
A very long time ago I discovered that the neoprene or cork seals were a pain in the backside, they always weep. I have used Silastic 732 as end seals. Put a decent bead then leave it for 20 min and you will have no leaks. I use contact adhesive on the gaskets as you did. stops them from moving. While it is never 100% checking the gasket on both intake and heads is essential. Many intakes are a fraction smaller and 15 min with the die grinder helps a lot. Ofcourse this best done on a dummy assembly where you can clean all the crap up before final assembly
yep I learn a lot on MT & I get some good ideas too. & sometimes they know best places to acquire parts too. thanx for doing it guys.
I want the sign in the background saying "Roadkill Extra" very subtle, perfectly done.
I just love how this is one complete scene in real time, no video cuts
Get some .010 stainless steel shim stock to make your own crossover blocking, that stuff will never burn through, and use 3M super weatherstrip adhesive to glue your gaskets on. I've been using it for 30 years.
Lmao
Dulcheck: “I think If I was a guy…”
Fryburger: “would you feel empowered?”
David I spent years in hardware retail a key thing with rtv is you push it forward along the gap which pushes your rtv into the gap creating the seal your after. The way you did it the way you did it you run the risk if the rtv bridging the gap and having an empty gap underneath as such not actually sealing what you're trying to seal.
So wish we could get motor tend here in New Zealand so I could watch more.
I like to use temporary bolt studs while setting in the gaskets onto the heads to help aligning the gaskets accurately.
Great video guys! It's funny, every single person does the same job unique to his/her own preference. It's funny seeing two ppl w/their own experience interjecting it and confirming w/the other, which is probably the best, portraying 2 opinions based on 2 different backgrounds. I'm a Chevy guy but definitely a fan of the old Mopars... Steve stop subconsciously influencing me to look Mopars, Dave does it enough already w/G-Mayhem & Tony A's Demon😊 . Thankfully Lucky rocks that nice '66 Chevelle 😁
I actually learned something. Thanks guys.
what i like about this? that you show whether the rubber sealing on the hasket faces up, intake side or cyl head side... THANK YOU!
Best way to use those cork gaskets is to throw them away and use "right stuff" gasket maker. Can torque and start the motor as soon as assembled.
How do you know how thick to lay it on..?
prefit the intake and measure the gap @@JoHa-dl5zr
Those cork end gaskets are leaking on my 340. Gonna go silicone instead cause come to find out edelbrock actually calls for silicone
Same here, mines a Holley.
Using grey rtv this time.
love this show you guys are awesome!
If you're building a small block Chevy with Vortec heads, there's an easy way to make sure the intake lines up properly on the first shot: put studs in the four corners and drop the manifold over them. Don't wanna buy studs for the intake? Then just use the "easy ups" from an SBC one-piece pan gasket set. Same thread size, and they are long enough to make dropping the intake over them easy, and are easy to remove as well after you start the four inboard bolts. By the way, the best intake gasket to use for Vortecs comes from the FelPro MS98000T intake gasket set. You get a bunch of stuff you don't need with that set, but the intake gaskets themselves are rubber over a metal core, and are very reusable.
And for putting the cylinder heads on the block without messing up the head gasket or crushing your fingers, a couple of scrap head studs also work wonders. Or a couple of old head bolts with their heads cut off, although with those you would want to make sure they are long enough to be able to remove after you put the head in place. If you use actual head studs, they should have an allen socket in their top that you can use to get them out even if they are too short to easily reach. Again, make sure you put a couple of bolts in through the head into the block before removing the installation "studs."
Ya nice 6” long pieces of thereaded rod I use, heat shring ove the upper threads so I can totally control the manifold drop into place between the intake gaskets, I do the ultragrey bead on the ends and ditch the cork - a nice controlled landing and torquing several times with hours in between to allow the sealant to cure before applying that final pinch
What about that corner bolt... Waiting till filming stops to say it won't go in? ;D
Very helpful video. I was wondering about using or not using sealant on the printoseal gaskets. This answered my question.
Awesome guys thanks for the good info
Steve Dulcich is the coolest guy on MT!!
Thanks for taking the time to make this good video
I have never seen Dulcich not have a solid answer off the top of his head. I don't know if he is this fluent in Ford or Chevy, but this dude knows his Mopar! I wonder how many motors he has put together! Dulcich is the MAN! F-Burger is cool too :-)
Awesome video. Now I know how to block the exhaust crossover port👍
Very informative. Cheers!
I thought we were beyond using cork gaskets, I can’t remember the last time I’ve used those. Other than that, great video!
Why are you using the cork end gaskets. I never install them . I use red silicon and have no leaks.
Those double back end gasket still slip out once they get warmed up so they leak.
Don't use the printoseal gaskets unless you tear down alot. They clean up easy but don't last long term.
That's the first time I've heard you guys reference Vanishing Point. Very cool movie.
Good stuff the first engine I ever worked on was a 318 in a Satellite Sebring very good entry level engine to work on small block Chrysler
Whoever pulls that intake is gonna be hella pissed! LOL
I would have put some rods in the bolt holes to guide the gasket with the impact adhesive.. that stuff is the bane of my existence
not too sure if i would trust the cork gasket , i think a bead of black would be extra security.without i think it would leak after a year or two
it's a pity Dulcich couldn't get the 4th bolt in...
What was all that dabbing of silicone? I usually lay a bead on. That's why they give you a cap that is cone shaped. You can cut it to the size of the bead you want to lay down. Good tip on cutting the head gasket tabs. Those water ports are critical as ethyl glycol(anti-freeze) eats bearing babbit material, destroying your engine.
Great video. I have only done an Intake install on a big block Mopar but never a small block.
John Totten Check my page for a vid of my Twin Turbo S550 Mustang. I️ just got it and we have a Hellion turbo kit on it. My friends reaction is great 😂 FYI this is my personal RUclips obviously that idgaf about so not tryna earn subs
Thank you bro!
About to do the same intake to 360. good video.
At 5:50 wen Freiburger says "U WONT" "WHY NOT" had me dieing laffin!
Next time guys, if of course you choose to use the cork's, position them with a drop of super glue... On each corner, you will see it sets quickly, so it doesn't hinder build time, and works like a champ... just a drop-in the corners.. Most times what causes the failure is the cork moves, slides around unless you let the adhesive set... This eliminate that... Try it once, you'll be impressed and add it into your build technicqes.... I build engines for a living, and set all my gaskets this way.. give it a try... Your welcome...
It looks like there’s already an adhesive on the bottom side of the cork, they peel off an adhesive blocker before putting them down.
That and offend Dulcich by putting down a layer of Permatex.
Dulcheck you rock
One trick that I read is to use studs and screw them into the heads to make sure you have everything aligned. You can also use the studs to drop the intake on to ensure alignment. If you don't have studs...cut off the heads of the old intake bolts. I'm installing my edelbrock rpm soon on my 289
that works great to align most components, only problem with an intake is the angle of the valley means the studs get in the way usually
Not on an SBC with Vortec heads.
Tony Mallos Correct. Use when applicable.
This was awesome haha
“Cross threads is better than no threads”..- steve dulcich
I always use Permatex aviation sealer.
You should do another episode on break in & tuning.
Vanishing Paint! I get the 'POINT' LOL!
do yourself a favour, just use a bead of silicon. aim those China rail cork, rubber intake base gaskets for the bin, 10 points if you get them in.
Good job
My edelbrock intake gasket set does not have the front or rear china wall gaskets . The installation guide says to use 1/4” bead of RTV instead. Coat head surface and the bottom of intake gasket with gascacinch gasket sealer and let air dry before installing the manifold.
I wish you guys would do a dyno test on the 440 Weiand Six Pack Super Stock intake. It would be cool to know how well they can perform. Please do it!!!
Do a video on how to rebuild a carburetor.
Nice info
Do you ever use all-thread studs instead of bolts for intake? I found using them makes easier to align the intake up and helps prevent broken bolts that rust in the heads. Windsor are horrible about the corner bolts rusting in because the barrier from the gaskets are too narrow to seal long term
When you rebuild an engine do you replace all fasteners if so would you recommend studs for the mains and elsewhere if possible. I did up a 340 a few years ago and ran into a lot of difficulties with bearings spinning and Carroll Shelby speed secrets stated it was mandatory in all american engine especially Mopar small blocks due to the dimensions of the bearing gernals
"I won't let you". Solid
That car is now at Vice Grip garage 😊
Please cover bolt sealants, and how to apply sealant to bolts
My head gasket tab broke free from the masking tape and fell down, barely landing on the edge of the dist gear!😬.....Tense moments with needle nose pliers ensued.
Twinning with camo shorts today on roadkill extra
What happens if the front and rear cork gaskets don't seal properly? Big oil leaks? I guess there's a fair amount of oil splattering around inside the lifter valley when the engine is running...
the defined art of rvt
Wish I used rtv around my water ports...
Nice wall paint Lurch, I mean Dulcich!
I used to believe the theory of tighten center out bolt patterns but not with some gaskets. I've done a truck 351 Windsor engine and used the same pattern as a 302. It broke the gasket and that's the only time I've ever broke a gasket was a cheap gasket kit with the reman engine.
"Who knew you needed a hammer and a chisel to install an intake manifold?" Says Dulcich who wants that hammer for that last corner bolt.
This must be for the new viewers. If you've been watching Roadkill/HotRod Garage for any length of time, you already know how to install both intake and exhaust manifolds.
Good stuff ! I see many comments, but without going through all, wanted to ask about Edlebrock mention not using the cork gaskets at the end and just use rtv. What’s the verdict plz?
I used the Dulcich method, and I think I have a leak at the back of my manifold! It's not a new distributor or oil pressure sensor! It's not the new valve cover, oil pan gaskets or the new rear main seal!
I think the pros use rtv
Have you ran the Old 1970 Challenger vs New Challlenger yet? Will it be on a road course and on the 1/4 mile track? That will be a really good comparison. Old Budget Build Challenger vs New Tech Challenger.
I have a cast intake and heads. There's a little pitting around the water ports on both. The gasket is Felpro, and comes with the rubber seals for the front and back, though I may ditch the rubber seals and use a 1/4" tall bead of permatex. Seems the easiest way to work around the pitting is to use sealant around the water ports. However, Felpro says to not use sealant because "using sealant can cause the gaskets to slip or split during torquing". My question is, would the same apply to the gaskets you guys used? In other terms, would you guys use sealant anyway? All input appreciated, I've never installed an intake. For what it's worth, Felpro recommends flatting the pitting with epoxy or have them machined.
You should do a similar series on how to install the engine into the challenger
"I won't let you.". And Frierburger just looks at him like. ......? Ok. :D :D :D
I liked this.. Good info to have... no one ever really talks about gaskets in their videos...
I wish these were my creepy uncles
I'd like David wanted to skim those Cork gaskets 😊
what type of thread sealer are using? what brand?
Did you do an oil pan gasket video?
...behind the scene : " this whole intake did not line up after all with the cylinder heads so lets take a apart and call it a day cause we are not shooting this video again" lol
After looking at this video again... I think Dulcich was wrong about the no bead of silicone. I did valve cover gaskets, an aluminum intake manifold, and a rear main seal because I added a new high flow oil pump on a Mopar 360 LA engine. I haven't seen any leaks at the filter or oil pan gasket! I thought it might be leaking at the oil pressure sensor, but I'm realizing that it may be at the back of the intake manifold near the new distributor! I don't want to do it, but it looks like I'm removing the intake manifold to solve that leak!
From my mom, who walked by as I was watching. "Dulcich needs to cut his hair. He isn't Fabio!"
Make a video of how you corrected the intake alignment issues you were having.
My guess Steve hogged out the holes ?
My first v8 is a gen 3 hemi, this might help
ALWAYS USE SEALANT!