Intake manifold Gasket replacement No Oil Leaks by Scared Shiftless
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- Опубликовано: 12 сен 2012
- How to install an intake manifold gasket with no leaks on small block and big block Chevrolet. Tips you need to know! Replacing a intake manifold gasket made easy by Mark with Scared Shiftless. 1957 Chevrolet two door post Sponsored by www.papadent.com Multi Purpose hand held tool for PDR, Stainless repair and much more.
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watched your video and installed a performer 2101 in about 45 min. Great video for someone who's never done one. Thanks.
Followed your instructions on my GM 305 CID...torqued all bolts to 30 ft lbs starting from center and found no oil leaks. Putting the distributor back in was a little dicey...but rotated the gear cw and then ccw and then slightly off the mark and it dropped right in. Engine cranked hard (battery?) but then started...needed timed 8 deg BTDC...now cranks easily...Many Thanks for your video!
Easy to follow. Good video. I'll be installing my intake tomorrow.
Good stuff. Thanks for taking the time to do this Mark.
I realize it's kinda randomly asking but does anyone know of a good site to watch newly released tv shows online ?
Best video on this subject! Thank you so much for this!!
Thank you for responding back, and thank you for your video. I was going to use those rubber gaskets, but I will just use the High temp silicone. Don't want any leaks.
Wonderful.
I have a marine GM350 with a blown gasket that Im going to change tomorrow.
This was very good information.
Great Video. Im getting ready to change my 5.7 mercruiser from a 2barrel to a 4barrel. I saw how the old intake had the same technique used. Thank you.
Mark, Thank you very much for taking the time to make this video. Its about the best one out there for Chevys. I followed your steps in detail to seal intake. I got ZERO leaks, with the new intake install. I did my timing a little different, I set it to engine to point at 34 degree BTDS on the balancer then dropped in the Distributor rotor point to # 1 Plug tower on cap. Fired right up timing very close. Thanks you again.
Mark Sir great video it’s been a while since I had to mess with these old schools but when I was a kid my old man owned a couple garages so I grew up around it but I’m putting the MSD EFI kit on a 87 Chevy Truck and I bought a new intake also so I figured I’d brush up on my skills before I put in the sent it back on and one thing you did that just brought back some memories from my old man was when you took those rubber gaskets and said just throw them in the trash. Them were his exact words. I remember I was working on a old impala he bought put an intake on and I was putting those rubber caskets home and he came over there took them off the engine and just threw them over in the field and said boy don’t ever put them damn things on here just tell them in the trash from now on. Then the Next day I was at the garage with him and he had a nova in there that had that problem with the gaskets and leaking air and he then show me and then I understood it but sorry for rambling on great video great work and thumbs up next day I was at the garage with him and he had a nova in there that had that problem with the gaskets and leaking air and he then show me and then I understood it but sorry for rambling on great video great work !! And 👍
Nicely done! I did the same procedure on my 68 350 Pontiac. 30 years later I tore down the engine and the silicone was still working and parts came off easily.
Damn Mark Boice you make some really nice videos :-) helps me a lot with my 67 Camaro keep it up. Thanks a lot
Awesome video mark will be doing this soon
Using a small amount of silicon on the intake bolts will help reduce oil from climbing up the threads. It is best if you use sealant around the sides of the bolt only!. Try not get get the sealant on the end of the bolt that could go into the engine valve train area. Great Question M. Welther. Thank You
When it comes to engines, the experts are in So. Cal...I've found!
Thanks, after a leak I now know how to seal it properly, really well explained.
Hello Mark,
thanks sooo much for showing us, how it`s done proper. This realy helped me out of a big Frustration!! I had this Job done by an "experienced" Mechanic who tried it 3 times. I got my Car back 3 times leaking Oil like a Chocolate Fountain. He has`nt realy done it wrong by using those stupid Rubber Stripes, he just has`nt done it Right by not knowing your Trick. So, i showed him your Video and we then did it together the way you`ve showed us. After that, the Hot Rod Season could be continued with no Oil Leaks at all......
Thanks so much again and Greetings from Germany
Wolfgang
Great News! The gasket companies should just replace the rubber gaskets with a tube of silicon and be done with it. Thank You For watching and glad the video helped. Mark
FEL - PRO Model MS 93317 for a Chevy 350' is now only using Black RTV Silcone part #226
Thanks for detailed explanation. Time to do mine now. Crossing my fingers that I an time it as I was a bone head and did not make any marks for my distributor location.😕
after watching all these videos on how to remove and or install a intake manifold I never hear or see you guys explaining that it is absolute necessary to drain the radiator and block before removing the intake....if you do not then as soon as you break the original seal between head and intake all the water at top end of motor falls into the oil pan....
Hey Mark, I have been a professional mechanic for over 10 years, I have used Scotch-Brite pads, a rectangle pad like you show and a 2.5" disk for an air tool. I have completed and estimated 1,000 intake R&R's and have never had an engine blow up. These fibers you speak of are actually composed of plastic which has a melting point of 150°C, the fibers are also coated in aluminum oxide. I agree a hard substance like aluminum oxide should not be inside an engine, however a razor blade/scraper will not always remove all gasket material/oxidization. I like my intake gasket to seal, especially if that is why you are there in the first place. If what you said were true, there would be many mechanics out of a job as I've seen nearly every one use this "forbidden" procedure.
Well lots of mechanics do things wrong, too. Most people I've heard say never to use those scotch brites, but I know there are different varieties of them so who knows, maybe some are more destructive than others.
Would you agree on the 5-minute "set" time for the silicone? I'm about to do this job on a 3.4l V6 but it's my first go at an intake manifold. I'm just curious if the silicone has to cure for a minute before torquing the manifold down.
Permatex High Temp Red RTV Item # 81160. Works very well. Never a problem. Thank You
Ok Mark I have a 67 Chevelle I put a olds5.0 from a 80 Cutlass. Now I'm up to Putin the intake on I never hear of not using the gaskets. If u have that nice of a car I'm sure u know what's up. So this Friday I'm going to do it myself. Any advice u can give me like do u use one tube of red n is it a quarter of an inch around the jackets. Well wish me luck because this is my second attempt n I tried using the rubber n when I torqued it down they moved. NICE CHEV. Thanks I let u know how it turned out
Tijuana Rick, exhaust ports are located on the side of the head where the headers or exhaust manifolds are. On the intake manifold you only have water jackets and intake ports.
WOW! It only took time, effort and attention to detail. Who would have ever thought that :) -Great Vid beat me to it
Great video
Great video! Thanks u!👍🇺🇸
Great Question! It is always a good idea to wait a couple of hours before adding coolant. It will take some time to install all the components back on the engine like carburetor, alternator, and linkage. By the time all the items are installed you should be fine to start the engine with no problems. Thank you for your comment.
In the center of the heads on the intake side there are ports that would have heated the underside of the intake to warm the fuel. The exhaust would have run from one side to the other through the intake. That is a thing of the past. It was more for smog than anything else. Very common even into the 1990s on most engines.
Great vid
One is for the heater hose fitting. The other is used for water sensor. Sometimes the water sensor is in the head. You can just block them off if you are not using them. You may want to check the back of the intake for another water port. Sometimes there is another for steam. That would go back to the radiator. Most applications do not use this port unless you are racing and need extra cooling. Thank you for your comment.
We only use Felpro MS90314-2 These gaskets fit many engine sizes so check before you install. No sense in doing all that work to save a couple of bucks installing cheap gaskets. I am pretty sure most part stores have them in stock or can order them for you. Thank You for your question.
great video, swapping out a efi throttle body out for a new carb and intake, how about those middle inserts for the bolt directional change, looks like they could use some sealer around them, your opinion, thanks
Did you ever make the ignition timing video?
Nice job! Question about your use of silicone. Why did you only use it on the water jackets and not the intake ports as well?
What about using the gaskasynch stuff on gasket(plus rtv on ends),,around every port? Would this help or hurt? Also,how do ya tell if gasket is leaking on the underside?
Is that the intake manifold gasket made for iron intake manifolds? would not the del pro 1256 be a better fit for the aluminum intake you choose to put in place of the stock cast iron one? Or can you actually use this stock factory intake manifold gasket for all intakes, cast iron OR aluminum?
Hello Mark,
Great video, I pretty much do the same procedure as you but i have a problem with my intake gasket that being wet with cooling water. It begins with a small amount (drops) that occurs all along the intake and after a week the gasket is soaking wet. This has happen two times in a row.. What am i doing wrong? Didn't have this problem with my old intake (holley strip dominator), the new intake is a edelbrock rpm airgap on a big block chevy.
Best regards //Roger
I'm using Coppercoat spray on my fel pro seals. I'm using the black form a gasket silicone, recommended for flexible gaskets for the front and rear seals. Is this sufficient. btw, Why did you toss the flexible front and rear seals out... Thanks.
Great video!., but I have a Question...I am putting on a 7101 Edelbrock intake on a 350. I noticed that I have three water ports on each head; just like on the one in this video. On my new intake, it only has two on each side. My question is, did I get the wrong intake or is there away to block off one of the water ports?
Hi Mark.......nice video. Would those rubber gaskets used for the intake also cause a vacuum leak if not sealed right?
thanks, Rich
What brand silicone and number are you using? I need to do this exact process to my 340 buick engine. Thanks
Wife's bath towel... lol! I don't think so. I'll grab a clean old towel. :)
I heard you're supposed to wait several hours to put the coolant back in, is that true?
Also this is one of the best videos I've seen for installing intakes.
Hello Mark!
I am about to do the exact same job and I wanted to know why didn't you use RTV on intake ports too? Only on water jacket and exhaust? thanks a lot!
What is the size or number for those intake gaskets for the 350?
Excellent video and answered my question as to why I was getting a mild oil leak on the side of my intake. I didn't apply any sealer to my screws.
Also, in the video you stated that you would post another video showing how to adjust a distributor. Is that video uploaded?
How would I know what gaskets to order for my small block 350 engine?
Great video, but you left out a very important part on torquing the manifold bolts down in sequence and spec...
is it gas resistant? I guess it wouldn't matter if it's only on the exhaust ports. Why only the exhaust ports and water jackets, and not the intake ports?
thank you for the quick reply. I look forward to more videos.
Why no sealant around the intake ports?
That "thing" is the oil pump drive shaft and you don't have to get in there with screw driver. If you are sure the distributor gear is engaged right you can turn the motor over and it will drop the rest of the way in. BTW- the distributor turns 42 degrees from first gear engagement to bottoming out.
Use only aerosol brake cleaner or Lacquer thinner to clean gasket surfaces. Carb cleaner and many Acetone's' leave oily residue (don't know what they put in some Acetone but I avoid using it for RTV/Silicone gasket surfaces, learned the hard way). WD40?! What are you thinking, keep it away.
But if you line up the distributor to the markings you did earlier, the timing should be fine right?
Yes
Hi Mark, did you mention the gasket for the distributor? maybe you don't want to use one.
Hey Mark- Big question for me is I've got a Chrysler 383 that has bolts on the block along the front and rear mating surface/edge.. how should I apply that bead of high temp rtv to that surface.. if at all? Obvious concern is that silicon will just get pushed into the bolt holes.
Thanks again!
Some silicon will not be a problem in the holes. Use caution and good judgement. Thank You Mark
Thanks your reply, your instructions were great. I have a follow up question. When i broke the intake seal, i heard a gurgling noise, like fluid was draining down. What could that be? I did not fully remove because i had the head gaskets on. Im hoping its jot antifreze getting in. Guess i would see that once i pull intake off. What do you think?
Probably anti freeze. Just get as much out the valve train area and for sure drian the oil and replace it before starting the vehicle. Get question! Thank You
Yes antifreeze. Best to drain it down a bit or do a drain and flush when replacing manifold gaskets. My 93 Sierra leaks oil from front and back of intake manifold. And also the oil cooling lines leak and need replaced but are gonna be a pain. Has clamps holding lines to oil pan connected to the oil pan bolts. And there are two support rods from the block to the flywheel cover in the way also I can't break free. At least before I bought a 24 in breaker bar. But my engine bay is getting full of oil and looks ugly. And timing chain is going in today as well. And catylitic converter is probably coming off as well and just put pipe in it's place. No emissions where I live so don't need the restriction.
Hi, were those stock gaskets you used to install the manifold? I've always used the ones from Edelbrock. I have stock ones on hand. So they work as good as Edelbrocks? Thanks.
Stock GM, Felpro, and Edelbrock all work just fine! We have used all with no problems. Thank You.
I put silicone on the end of the bolts I hope that nothing gets into my engine like he was saying
AS long as you put it on the side and not the end you should be fine!
I have a 1968 Mopar 318 and the manifold top gets oil that collects in the indents in the manifold top around where the bolts go in. Is it conceivable that oil is coming up the screw threads and collecting around the bold heads? it is a fair amount of ails that collects in the indents -- would pulling all the screw out and using silicon fix the problem or might the oil be leaking from somewhere else?
M Welther i have the same problem with my 72 d100. I dont think its that big of a problem though.
M Welther ii
When removing the existing intake manifold, do I need to drain out the radiator fluid? I have a Pontiac 400 engine
yes
Hi Mark, I'm installing a factory cast iron Q- jet manifold to my 67 Chevelle 396, I have a Felpro gasket set with the rubber f & r seals, would you recommend disregarding them on this application as well? I used the high heat RTV before for other applications before and I know it's good stuff, heard mixed opinions about using it on Felpro permatorque gaskets, especially cast iron manifolds. I did see your previous reply about older surfaces but was curious about my application. Thanks, Tom
I would certainly toss the front and rear seal. RTV is our friend!
Mark Boice Thanks Mark, I'll be assembling it tomorrow.
very good video, except the part I needed to know..
Which way is the correct way to fit inlet
gaskets?
Smooth side to the heads. Great question! Thank You Mark
thanks Mark :)
Mark, what is the best way to torque down the bolts, do you just torque them down 25 ft lbs in one shot or is there separate sequences?
Apply a small amount of silicone to the threads of the eight inner bolts (1,2,3,4,5,7,9 & 11) For sure to prevent oil weepage, as generally these are not blind holes in the cylinder head. Torque all of the manifold bolts in two to three
steps by the sequence. Front to rear looking from front of engine. Left bank 12-11-4-1-5-6. Right bank 10-9-3-2-7-8 3. 25 lbs. is recommended We do 30 lbs. You should check them again after the engine has been run and cooled. Thank You
Hi Mark,
Thanks for taking the time out to do the video. Question for you. Everyone says to have your engine at TDC but if you mark where the rotor is pointing and put it back at the exact same location and if the engine haven't turned since you took out the distributor, is TDC even a factor? I'm replacing my manifold and having my distributor recurved and marked the location of the base and the location of the rotor. If it goes back in the same location, I'm good to go?
Thanks!
You can set the timing to top dead center no problem. However as you stat as long as you do not move the engine you will not have any problems getting the timing set. More than likely after the distributor has been curved you will have to adjust your timing a little to compensate for the new curve values. Thank You for your comment. Mark
Mark Boice Thank you for your reply! Appreciate the help!
Mark Boice Bro, I m having a problem with the metal part of the brake booster tube at the intake.(Chev 350, 93 Suburban) I believe the smaller end is 18mm and the bigger end is 21mm. But I cant turn the smaller fitting without twisting the tube. And I cant turn the larger one without turning everything. It is the final piece before I can remove the intake easily. What do you suggest?
And I used a breaker bar on the crank to get the rotor to the #1 cylinder position in the distributor before I remove it(which also means that the engine should also be on cylinder #1. So as long as I dont crank the engine the distrib. should be installed in the exact same position(which looks like 5 o'clock) when I put it all back together. What do you think? Good or bad?
ZanzibarJose You will need to apply light oil to the fitting. Use a fitting wrench and turn the fitting back and forth just a little to loosen the tube. You can use compressed air around the fitting to remove the debris around the fitting that is holding it up. Keep applying light oil and compressed air and turn the fitting just a little at a time. It is a long process but it will work without damaging the tube and fitting. Mark
Mark Boice OK, flared wrenches, good. I ll try that. Penetrating oil on the threads of the smaller fitting, ok, good.
Dont forget the gasket for the distributor.
+journeyquest1 Great advice! Thank You
hello mark,i realy like your video, have a question, i have a 454 and i am swaping it tbi to carb,so before watching you video i did prety much the same exept i used a small abrasive high speed used up 120 grit pad and coverd everything first and carfully sanded it , it left some marks but not very deep, i can feel it with my finger, so would it be best to put the high temp selant on and under the whole gasket to fill in the very little warps that i have made,the one or two,¸and of course if the black or grey very fine powder debris that could have maybe gone in the motor even with the precautions i toulk, i am thinking of cleaning every thing i might see with a good rag in the tinyest corners , so i would like to know your take or opinion on all this, and are there oil filters out there that are more afichant to pick up fine particles in the oil,thank you.
IF you have small scratches you should be fine. I would not seal the complete gasket. I think you would do more harm putting gasket sealer around the gasket as you cannot get it even enough to not warp the intake. Thank you for your question.
So you dont have to use the two gasket pieces that for the back of the block and front of the block . just silicon?
Yes, No gasket in the front or rear.
Thank you for this video man, I just used this to replace my intake in my 63 impala. Followed every step and I hope it doesn't leak and solves my problems I'm having. Also very funny with the wifes towel . Thanks for adding some humor to it. How long do you usually wait before starting the car?
24hrs
You should wait at least 4 hours. We usually give the sealant time dry over night. Thank You for your comment.
Hey Mark . I waited a weak to start it . just started it and it's leaking coolant out of the front and rear intake only on the pass side . it's coming from the gasket , not the bolts .. I checked and they are torqued . any ideas ? will I have to pull it all off and try again ?
Sounds to me if you have only one side leaking, the gasket slide from its positive position. You will have to take it up to inspect. The only other thing which would be not so common a problem is that the block and heads have been milled past the correct angles between cylinder head and intake. My bet is on the gasket slide. Please let us know when you find out the problem and solution. Thank You.
Mark Boice okay I will check and see . all bolt holes aligned with the gasket holes when I installed the bolts . but I will tear is back down and see what's going on . think I'll need to buy new gaskets or can I reuse ?
Are those middle holes that you put RTV on, are they water jackets too?
No, They are exhaust ports. Exhaust travels under the intake manifold from side to side. This is a smog thing. If you want to get more performance use gaskets that have no holes in them. This will not let the fuel get hot and more performance. Thank You Mark
I had a faulty repair job on 2001 chevy van.Second mechanic said the intake manifold gasket had slipped. First mechanic said chances of that is very small, plastic pins that go into the head holds it in place, making sure you don't let the gasket slip. Comments?
hidden4est Interesting! It seems very unlikely that they could slip. However there is not much room in the engine compartment so it could have gotten moved during installation of the intake. Even if it slipped a little it should have been close enough to seal. It would have been near impossible to line up the bolts into the gasket had it moved a lot. If the gasket where so far out the truck would not run well and you would have some very good oil leaks.
+Mark Boice You can also use a spray gasket adhesive to hold the gasket in place while jockeying it around to get the intake to mate. This method is especially helpful if you can't get eyes on the intake and head while you are installing it.
When putting the distributor back in correctly as lined up when removed will the timing need to be adjusted? Thanks for the video! This will be my 1st time doing this so I am praying all goes well.
You should always try to get the best timing for performance. It is a pretty simple task. You will do well. Thank You
Mark
Awesome! Thanks buddy.
Why are you adding more gasket to a gasket, specifically RTV sealant. The intake gasket is the RTV gasket. You are creating another place for fluid/exhaust to leak from. Felpro recommends to install their intake gaskets DRY.
Answer is simple! No Oil Leaks! Felpro designs their gaskets with parts that are free from rust pits and prefect surfaces. When using original parts that are sometimes 30 or 40 years old a perfect surface does not exist! Thank You for your question.
Hey, I bought a good wrench SBC from Jegs a while back and before i could get it properly broken in i ran into some transmission issues. I since then I have fixed that problem, but now I am having major leaking from the front and read of my intake manifold. Do you recommend I put gaskets along with silicome or do you recommend that I only use silicone when reinstalling my manifold. Thanks
Hey man, did you end up fixing the intake issue? how does that engine run? I was thinking of getting a GM crate motor if the new intake gaskets don't fix my problem. which version did you get, the 290 HP?
Only the silicon sealant. No gaskets!
Save your money! Fixing the intake oil leak is a much cheaper investment. 290HP! Thank You
Does the area under the intake where the push rods are have to be totally clean? I have never installed an intake and would like to know.
Thanks
There is always normal build up of deposits on older engines. Most importantly is no loose debris. I would try not to disturb the valve train area by cleaning. Could cause problems latter. Thank You for your comment.
I personally would not over clean that area. Loosening up some of the debris in that area could find its way into the valve train like lifters and portions of the camshaft. These debris could possibly create problems in these areas. Just make sure that there is no loose debris that can get into the oil passage ways and you should be fine. Thank You
Thanks for the reply,
So, as soon as I began to loosen manifold bolts, a considerable amount of coolant started leaking out from under the manifold, and going all over. ...is that normal?
It would be if you did not drain the coolant from the engine. Otherwise not normal at all.
@@MrScaredshiftless I removed the hose from the radiator to the manifold, and did my best to drain all the coolant from where that hose goes into the manifold.
How do you drain the coolant from the engine?
...I watched every video I could find on removing the manifold, and not a single one addresses coolant fluid.
@@LastBastian You can use a vacuum to get the coolant up that you can see. However an oil change is the best.
The water jacket area will always have some pitting on the intake and the heads. Silicon will fill the void to prevent leaks. Water in the oil Not Good!
Not really. When the rubber gaskets are blown out the PCV valve does not work properly. It sucks air in where the gasket material is missing. This causes the engine to run poorly. A bad or missing PCV valve can create so many oil leaks on and engine you just would not believe. In older engine to solution was a down draft tube. Today the answer is a vacuum pump. Some engines even have a catch can to collect oil. Hopes this helps you. Thank You Mark
why only silicone by the water jack?? why not by the intake port too??
The water ports usually have rust pits where the intake areas do not. Great question! Thank you Mark
What's to keep the sealant on the manifold bolts to creep up the bolts as you tighten them? thanks.
The sealant acts like an o ring and fills the gaps in the threads. Great Question! Thank You
where's the next vid?
24 carat purple
SO LETS GO AHEAD
LETS GO AHEAD
Why throw those other rubber pieces in the trash?
Just not worth the Leak. Silicon much better option in this case. Thank you for you comment.
My neighbor told me that a bad intake manifold gasket could cause oil to leak into my coolant.
Is that true?
He said my compression numbers were too normal for it to be a blown head gasket..
Thanks in advance..
I have never seen or heard of that happening.
@@MrScaredshiftless Me either, but someone else also agreed that it's possible..
My neighbor is a pretty reliable source..
I was going to pay him to fix the head gasket, or head, which I would have had to pay him much more, but not as much as a shop.
I think it could be true..
Read above. Your either to young to know or not familiar with SBC's.
Red RTV?!? Never.... Use BLACK for this job.
I use the stuff called Great Stuff and it is black.
theres no oil in the intake manifold, so it shouldnt be hard to avid oil leaks from there.
of corse, the Oil is not IN the Intake, it`s UNDER the Intake and it needs to sealed off.
The oil doesn't come through the intake manifold. It comes up through the manifold bolt threads--usually the 4 around the center of the intake right below the carb. Very common problem with the SBC. That's why you need to use thread sealant on the bolts.
The entire valley has oil. Why do you think sealant goes across the front and rear of the engine?
Hi Mark.......nice video. Would those rubber gaskets used for the intake also cause a vacuum leak if not sealed right?
thanks, Rich
Not really. When the rubber gaskets are blown out the PCV valve does not work properly. It sucks air in where the gasket material is missing. This causes the engine to run poorly. A bad or missing PCV valve can create so many oil leaks on and engine you just would not believe. In older engine to solution was a down draft tube. Today the answer is a vacuum pump. Some engines even have a catch can to collect oil. Hopes this helps you. Thank You Mark
Running crankcase back into carb via PCV valve is a horrid idea and not good for carb as long as a vehicles exempt from emissions. Run a breather and call it a day.