DONT USE RTV SILICONE UNTIL YOU WATCH THIS VIDEO!!! THE HIDDEN SECRET TO MAKE IT WORK
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- Опубликовано: 9 авг 2022
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I go around the bolt holes as well. My reasoning is that if you don't it may cause flex or cracking of the housing because its a few thou difference to the mating surface.
You sound about right had to learn that trick from a 70 year old dude that’s been building motors since the 60s been learning slots of tips and tricks building my small block side by side with him check my page out I’m building my 84 cutlass supreme
🤔
At 2:45, you mention people waiting for the RTV to become tacky before assembly. Valco Cincinnati's Tech Tips page says, "Silicone needs humidity to cure properly. That’s why Valco advises mechanics to apply silicone and allow it to set for 10 to 15 minutes before assembly. During this time, silicone absorbs moisture out of the air. This permits polymer “cross-linking”- the process that allows silicone to become rubber-like. If parts are put together while silicone is wet/fresh, it is likely the silicone will never set properly."
I think this process will naturally happen to at least some degree in a lot of cases
This is correct.. You must give the silicone access to the air fully before engagement. Anaerobics are usually better when instant installation is necessary.
I don't think running it around the outside of the bolt holes is a stupid idea. If the gasket fails at that point, you're have an extra layer of protection.
It will just leak through the bolt hole.
@@pingpong9656 Rusting the bolt so it snaps on removal. Small Block Ford problems
No it doesn’t, it will leak through the bolt hole.
My thought as well , like why else would a water pump that comes with a gasket also goes around bolts
@@1pyroace1 actually you’ve got a point
Excellent videos ! 👍
I've found that a coating about the thickness of a piece of paper works well. As stated in the video the surfaces are already very good, so what you really need the silicone for is filling any imperfections. A coating about the thickness of a piece of paper will still have enough to flow into small scratches or imperfections while keeping the joint stronger because the hardware can withstand more pressure than the silicone.
Awesome video, I think they reason the instructions state to let it cure and then tighten is so that excess rtv doesn't squish too much, but even finger tight it will still moosh out a bit anyways so probably fine either way.
I also find that especially in tight spaces, slightly cured RTV doesn't wipe away as easily when trying to fit a part.
0:38
in fact when you bolt it down immediately you waste all silicone. the idea to let it cure for some time is to make a gasket.
I have best experience with Toyota FIPG silicone. I’ll used over 13 years only this silicone, great quality and saw it some cars after 10 years still holding great. Just curious brand recommendations to who fight with other brands.
Great tips , thanks
Put a plastic bag over tube and put cap on to save the silicone for next job
All I use is this and right stuff on air cooled engines
I like the Gray RTV also. It's stiffer when dry. It holds up well when exposed to Hot Oil, even if it's submerged in a hot oil pan in my experience.
i use only red rtv it seems to be stronger
Si I did not quite understand , when you put the bead of silicone are you suppose to wait for it to dry before placing the cover and bolting it down, or do you put it all together, wet and tighten down?
@@alexshatner3907 Sort of Wet. Let it set up for about 5 minutes. For a water pump as shown here, you shouldn't need a very thick amount.
Of course the instructions say don't wait for it to tack, but how many do we all know that do wait a bit?
Not me, though. I only do exactly what the instructions say. Except I usually don't. And if someone ask me how to do it, I just say, I always do exactly what the instructions say". And then my SO would say, "You're such a liar! I can't believe I let you (beep) me."
Had a question for you whats your input on using sealant. On heads with head gasket & sealant ?
Thanks, nice work!!
Every time I did the oil pan it would leak if… I didn’t put a thick bead, tighten it by hand until it started to ooze out, wait an hour and then torque to spec. I tried to take different shortcuts including yours, but I ended up repeating the job. Whomp whomp. Lol
You are supposed to let it sight and tack up because that is what the directions say to do
WATCH THE WHOLE VIDEO!
2:56
Not sure about this silicone but doesnt say that on the black stuff. It says assemble immediately and finger tighten bolts then torque to spec in an hour.
When you tighten the bolts down, however much sealer squeezes out that you can see on the outside, is the same on the inside. The less, the better.
Good old common sense! Good advice and tech advice! I seen globs of rtv size of toothpaste bead! Waste of rtv and messy! Thanks .
Hey I found your channel yesterday and I watched a ton of your old videos. Great stuff! Is this video and some other recent ones current or from a long time ago? Do you still make new videos or no?
I found spreading a thin layer (paint thickness-ish) on one side say the block or diff housing etc. let that set up, skin over. Apply another bead similar to what was shown in the video to the other part(water pump, diff cover etc.) and assemble immediately. IMO and experience it gives a little more thickness to create a "gasket". I have sealed a lot of crap with that method over a lot of years with exceptional results. I also like the ultra grey, the ultra black works well also.
Si I did not quite understand , when you put the bead of silicone are you suppose to wait for it to dry before placing the cover and bolting it down, or do you put it all together, wet and tighten down?
Yes, the thin skin first bead is allowed to dry or skin over. It only takes a few minutes, maybe 5 plus. That skin does not squish out from between the parts as readily as uncured rtv. The bead of fresh rtv on the opposing surface fills any small gaps and sticks the two surfaces together. I have seen friends put a bead on one side and let it skin over or not, then assemble with zero leaks and I have also seen it leak, same with my method. I have simply had far better results with my method, so I go with it.@@alexshatner3907
Imo, start with the info the company gives you and then adapt from there. Nobody seems to ever follow the permetex instruction, but perm tells put down the correct amount, put pieces together - finger tight, and then torque 24 hours later. I try to adhere to the time requirements specified, but most do not. I get why, being the time needed before you torque, but apparently it works anyway. You got the one guy here that first puts down a thin layer, let's it tack up, and then does the other side the real way. I would think you want a one layer seel.
I've worked with a lot of glue type product in construction, waterproofing, included. All as technical support. Never had one fair on a job I teched. If putting on two sides, you want a monolithic seal, as if it was one piece when cured. I do not believe permetex was designed to do that, but if layer 2 "melts" layer one and they bond as one, theoretically, it could be possible. But in that case, why wait for one side to tack up, as it's not "just" a glue, but I've always treated it as if it creates a gasket itself that you torque down. I guess the stuff sounds like it's pretty screw up proof once you come up with a workable system. I prefer yhe mfgrs system. I'm not gonna be in a rush, and they've already proved it out. But then, if a reliable mech is doing his way, chances he's not getting leaks either. Do overs cost much more than one and done. Clean is always the biggest factor, I have always concerned myself with. Good luck. Hope it turned out well for you. I'm starting one in about 20 minutes. Oil pan farm equipment for a neighbor.
@@nothankyou5524 Sweet, you do you, im sure it works fantastic. I don't have time to wait 24 hrs normally, most mechanics don't. I know my method works, I have my theories behind why it does work and after 25 plus years, see no reason to change what works. Have a fantastic day and hope your neighbors pan turns out amazing.
Man can you help me on how to spare the parts after doing that? I’m suffering haha
I actually followed the directions where it said to bolt the part loose and then tighten fasteners all the way and my seal failed 😢. This video is 💯 percent accurate!!!!
so you made it wrong, cause all fabs are saying the same: bolt it loose, wait, torque it down.
I've always went around the bolt holes as well. I guess because if you have thru holes & not blind ones, you could have a leak.
Let it sit and tack up so it doesn't squeeze out. I much prefer indian head gasket shellac. No squeeze out or contamination of fluids.
Thanks legend, I’m in a hurry and need it to work within a cpl hours 😂
I like to let it set up overnight before I add the fluids and start the engine. don't know if anybody else does this.
There is one instance for a heavy bead of RTV....small block chevy intakes. Throw away the rubber strip gaskets that go on the block and lay a nice thick bead. Drop the intake on, torque it properly, leave it set for 24 hrs. It will never blow out like the rubber ones.
I even tuff up surface with electric engraver also and thick layer of right stuff plus wait 24 hours
@@philliphall5198 Aaaww.... you took me back to 1968 with that one! I used to lay up top in my bunk bed thinking that, _if I "grind down" the top of my cylinder head on my Faux Sears _*_Mini-Bike_*_ i'd get increased compression._ Because so much shlit has happened since I seen *Hippies* smokin' pot at Haight & Ashbury, I forgot what i finally did.
On the directions it says to let sit exposed for x amount of time. 👌🏼
Yeah i just sent it right away then read directions it says let cure for one hour then torque o well !!
ULTRA BLACK Silicone is the Best.
The bigger the glob ,the better the job !
Whatever squeezes out is a waste. And you dont want it to "skin" over before torquing the bolts
It’s not a wife’s tale , the manufacturers suggest it . A 1/8” shallow silicone bead is sufficient . Anaerobic sealant also works very well on flat surfaces .
Si I did not quite understand , when you put the bead of silicone are you suppose to wait for it to dry before placing the cover and bolting it down, or do you put it all together, wet and tighten down?
@@alexshatner3907 It is ok to apply and tighten immediately . Before applying clean surface well with brake clean or ether to remove any oil residue on the mating surfaces .
Nice
Man I did it exactly like you did, but… anybody can say me htf can spare the parts then? I’m using a cutter blade but… man it feels like I’m cutting the aluminum. I just put some w40 around the pump and looking for help in the internet
Yes. Use. Nice
Gee i wonder who's wife printed those instructions on most tubes of RTV/liquid gasket and my motorcycle service manual.
My Dad did the same
A little bit goes a Long Way and let it set up before you assemble.
I love rtv seal. Recently used it to glue the glass panel of an oven door back on
That doesn't work well on autos on that part the new style has a recessed Grove the traps the rtv , that part will scruch it to .010 and seap most times ,others have a high spot that holds it apart farther , you can do that with a tooth pick rtv ed on let dry then set rtv it and it has sufficient thickness
What do you think you taught people exactly? I'm not seeing it
Zetor yeah!
Si I did not quite understand , when you put the bead of silicone are you suppose to wait for it to dry before placing the cover and bolting it down, or do you put it all together, wet and tighten down?
Don’t wait
Don’t listen to the guy that tells you not to wait. Sealants need AIR to cure. This is the reason they recommend giving it the amount of time they engineered it for.
@@kevinanderson8773 Thanks Kevin
I had a 92 ford ranger 4 cylinder lose oil pressure. Dropped the pan to find the oil pickup completely blocked with chunks of rtv. Engine had never been worked on. It came like this from the factory. Of course it was out of warranty.
You put on too much silicone! Screw on the applicator tip, cut the tip so that only a thin bead comes out, and then take your finger and dab it so that little hills and valleys are formed and that's it. Like you said, most people put on too much silicone. The manufacturers of small engines make a video showing how little silicone is really needed.
Si I did not quite understand , when you put the bead of silicone are you suppose to wait for it to dry before placing the cover and bolting it down, or do you put it all together, wet and tighten down?
thanks i will try with valve cover
I know in 99% of cases this does not apply but.....
Somewhere some idiot is watching this video before doing an intake and applying a thin bead to the "China wall" of an intake. When you have two flat surfaces that meet you should apply a thin bead as you have shown as any extra will be squeezed out both sides and can potentially clog hydraulic lifters, oil pressure bypass valves etc.
However on surfaces that by design will have a gap its crucial that the width of the bead exceeds the compressed dimension of the gap when torqued. Also in these types of gaps its crucial that both surfaces be completely clean to insure that the sealant bonds to the surfaces and does not leak.
GOOD THING IT DID NOT LEAK. NOT LEACKED
Its better to make a paper gasket and paint it.
The rule that no one follows when using silicone sealant . Always allow the sealant to form a skin before assembly.
Naw I never have. Never get leaks either. I use a caulking gun w a 14oz tube of ultra grey. When you think you have enough, it's usually too much. Most peoples use way too much! Everything that squishes out is wasted. A 3/16" bead is plenty for most applications. Lifelong mechanic by trade specializing in trans & drive lines.
@@oneninerniner3427 You're lucky. Phil's right.
Si I did not quite understand , when you put the bead of silicone are you suppose to wait for it to dry before placing the cover and bolting it down, or do you put it all together, wet and tighten down?
@@alexshatner3907 The thing that no one seems to under stand is, Let it skin over like the instructions say. A half an hour or 10 minutes or so. Then put it together.
If you put it together wet, it will all squish out.
He put on way too much. A thin film is all you need. Thin. Like paint thin. :)
@@ebenwaterman5858 Thanks Eben makes more sense the way you explained it
Transmission pan bad
Still using 10 x two much !
Why people put RTV and with 5-10 minutes?! Because that what the manufacturer tells you on the package!
Guess Im not the only one that read the instructions. Hand tighten then tq however long later.... I think one was 24hrs no?
@@dave-yj9mc Let dry for 1 hr before torquing. Wait 24hrs before filling with fluid.
it doesnt say that on the Black stuff. It says assemble immediately and finger tighten bolts. Torque in an hour.
You don't have time to let it cure???
Ur suppose to finger tackitup.....so it grabs on each mating surface.
I think you should read those instructions before instructing. Or is this a not what to do video.
Never use silicone ever ( find something else ) or only use it outside and then wash everything if you are going to do any spray painting or finishing in your shop.
Silicone, somehow, gets everywhere and wreaks havoc with paint and finishes by causing fish eyes. Once it's in your shop it takes years to finally get rid of it.
I don't paint I'm more likely to need to use rtv than paint something that is that critical
The reason your hand shakes is due to the fact you're squeezing the tube to push the product out. The simple muscle contraction of your hand won't allow for a completely smooth application. The added approach of going around the bolt holes is simply a good idea to have a uniform layer of sealant on the mating surface.
Using your finger is stupid because you then create air bubbles in the sealant
It's not autistic, it's being thorough.
2:57 B O T T O M T E X T
The key thing about silicone sealant is never ever ever use it on a gasket it will turn the gasket too mush in a few months then you'll have a bigger problem, supposed to be used without gasket but can be used with rubber o-rings
Si I did not quite understand , when you put the bead of silicone are you suppose to wait for it to dry before placing the cover and bolting it down, or do you put it all together, wet and tighten down?
Needs tack off time
Never use RTV on anything hydraulic. Thst includes transmissions and power steering.
Si I did not quite understand , when you put the bead of silicone are you suppose to wait for it to dry before placing the cover and bolting it down, or do you put it all together, wet and tighten down?
There no dumb reasons.
Or just get the correct gasket..,.....,... Never mind, that's another scam 🤣
I have a 2008 Cadillac Escalade ESV. GM, nor anyone else (fel-prone,etc.) makes a gasket for the thermostat housing to the water pump. I've wasted so much coolant after putting on the water pump thinking that maybe my tourque specifications were off or something along those lines, when in all actuality, there was a gasket "missing" the whole time that no one makes.This video just saved me tons of money.
Yeah, apparently no one can make a gasket that doesn't leak.
@@theme61I have same vehicle napa autoparts has that gasket if not get rrv works for me
You spelled leaked wrong. You spelled it Leacked 😂
For whatever reason I’m autistic 😂
Don't say "I'm Autistic" it is insulting to MANY people.
They can be insulted though, that's ok, I have faith that they can be insulted and are big enough and strong enough to cope. The world will still spin, and carry on.
1 step before anything this guy did is to clean the surface before applying.
Yup, clean it and clean it until you think that it must be clean enough, then clean it some more - acetone seems to work well (ventilate!)
@@kellismith4329 Acetone and lacquer thinner are excellent. Residue free contact cleaner is a good substitute in a pinch but it's expensive in comparison to the first two. Best wishes!
- Max Giganteum
you used to much, not trying to be negative
So you think that you do one job / part right, but you don't do what the label says about letting it dry before adding coolent, because you are mechanic, well to me i would rather use a little to much than not enough, i have done it both ways, and prefer to use a little more for a job, not real messy , but at least twice what he put down,
Si I did not quite understand , when you put the bead of silicone are you suppose to wait for it to dry before placing the cover and bolting it down, or do you put it all together, wet and tighten down?