Was fighting the rod today on my 74 monte carlo i couldnt get rod fo stay in place an the rod was to far down for me to get the bolts in now i felt like rookie mistakes but man today has been a day thanks for the video🎉
I have an 86 K10 But I can't get the pump lever all the way in and fully under the rod. The rod won't raise any higher so trying to figure something else out
When installing the fuel pump with the fuel pump rod completely up the fuel pump should sit flush against the block when tightening the bolts it shouldn't have any tension.
Fffff i just did this job on my 1979 z28 and it took me 4 hrs its a lil harder when you dont have much space but thanks to your video i was able to replace my fuel pump third tried cranking it n it turned on one thing less to worry about thanks man!!
Very nicely explained video. Getting ready to change my fuel pump on a 1982 Chevy K30 pickup. I’ve watched a couple videos before this one. This is the best by far!
Excellent tip. I remember that push rod being a major pain when I replaced the fuel pump on my 348 10-15 years ago. Well, it's time to replace it again. I'm definitely doing this hack this time!
This whole time I was just using a stick to keep the rod upright, then I would very quickly move the pump in.....this video helped. I didn't even think about using that' bolt. I'm going to remount the pump today on my 350 small block.
All right I'm going to try this tomorrow on my 71 K5 for the first time ever. Wish me luck. Was going to go with the electric fuel pump but the fuel pump has lasted a very long time. The spring broke off the rivet so now it doesn't do anything. New one going in tomorrow. Awesome video brother, thank you so much for the help
I am really happy I found your video. You did a fantastic job explaining everything and the close up pictures were excellent too. You went straight to the point! Thank you!
Chris ,Excellent tutorial !Spot-on reassembly sequence. Great results on my 65 c20.Please post vid of your awesome clean rebuild so we can hear that engine running ! Thanks , Jonny
Ha! Check out some of my newer videos there are some nice shots of how it’s coming along How to Replace Your Carriage Bearings ruclips.net/video/sf-c0srktDo/видео.html and CUSTOM Cup Holder ruclips.net/video/Fz5dQLHam3c/видео.html
I actually knew this trick but thought I missed something when I tried a bolt from a puller kit (not enough threads). I am working on the same exact truck but it has a 307 and they apparently came with a 1/4" outlet with the 3 pumps I had here all being 3/8". I can probably find another bolt, but that trick of using a mounting bolt in a pinch is a great tip. The juggling with the heater hoses, ground wire and brackets makes me want to run to the hardware store. Great video. Another tip for someone just doing a replacement due to failure is have a set of angled pick tools to weasel around the rod and get it up into place with the plate on.
@@sbcbuilds5517 Big thank you. Got that truck done in the yard during a snow storm because I had a Camaro in the garage and it runs a lot better. I ended up running new 3/8" lines. It still has that beautiful low compression cranking noise but fires up so much faster. Good looking out.
Great Video...No, I'm gonna make everyone in the world think I'm hysterically funny B.S.!! Thank you for that. I 'm doing my 80 corvette pump right now and had no Idea how to hold the rod in place...Many Thanks!
I never knew about that bolt. I was taught to put some heavy grease on the rod to hold it up, which works so long as the motor is cold. The bolt thing makes much more sense so long as you don't crank the bolt down and damage the push rod.
ha, ironic I have the same hat and about to install a new pump on my camaro. The black looks really clean, debating on that or the typical chrome look. Nice vide bud, short and to the point.
Cool thanks man I have an 84 cutlass supreme with a chevy small block and my fuel pump is throwing fuel out killing my mileage. I have never changed a fuel pump outside the tank. Thanks man
I put all 4 bolts in and let it dry 24 hours then remove the top 2 and install the pump. This holds the plate in place if you tighten the bottom bolts without tightening the top you will have a gap.
THAT ROD IS THE EXACT ISSUE IM HAVING WOTH MY ENGINE. I didn’t know that. Thank you so much for showing that. I’ve been fighting it for a while now to the point of almost giving up and that was the issue all along. But my fuel pump doesn’t have that bracket that goes in between the fuel pump and block though. I don’t know why it didn’t have one
FUNNY STORY: I rebuilt my 350 SBC back in 1998 for my 1978 Trans Am, using Edelbrock cam, carb, intake, etc and full machining. I've put 25000 miles on it in the 24 years since as a summer hot rod. Also got married and had a couple kids. So now the fuel pump started leaking and I watched your video. I find that I am missing that bolt that locks the push rod in place. I must never installed it since there is orange paint in the threads. Now I know where the oil has been leaking from all these years!! LOL. Now I'm wondering about that lower bolt hole, about 1.5" below. I can shove a wire in there well over 1". And there is roasted oil all around that hole. It may be from the upper hole, but I'm wondering what that lower hole is for. I noticed your lower hole doesn't have a bolt in it. Can you advise what that lower hole is for? I'm thinking to put a short bolt in both of them just to be on the safe side. Great video by the way!
Thanks for the video. On my block the threaded hole on the side is not a through hole, so it can't be used to hold the pumping rod. Oh well- the assembly grease should hold it.
I usually slide pushrod up slide a hacksaw blade down between the pushrod & fuel pump arm. Once you get the pump mounted close to the engine block, pull out the hacksaw blade & install the 2 fuel pump mounting bolts. Trust me it works. 👍
Hey man I got a 93 chevy tbi 350 what’s should I do to cut off the electrical fuel pump to install the mechanical pump so I can skip buying the regulator?
🟥 1) put motor oil on the rod before install 2) put a dab of grease on both ends of the rod 3) use copper coat spray on gaskets instead of silicone. (You don't want that shit to find it's way into an oil galley) Been building these things since the 60s. Never a problem. Then again, everybody does things differently.
Just spray the gaskets and stick them on? I failed miserabely today using silicone. It made a huge mess I didnt feel comfortable so i took it all apart and cleaned it. Ruined both my gaskets in the process.
@jeffmarcum3643 I take a cardboard box, put a hole in the top,drop a wire down the hole,put my gasket on the end of the wire,spray both sides of the gasket with the copper coat spray. When it tacks up, stick it to where you want and assemble. Easy peasy...Done
Damn I wish I had watched this great video BEFORE I removed my old fuel pump!!! Fuel pump rod fell and I can't get it pushed back up in the block. Any advice on this will be greatly appreciated 👍
Just found your channel and will be subscribing. Was looking because my son's Nova suddenly had fuel leaking and found that the bolt that you put in to hold the rod is missing. You explained everything well. What size did you say the bolt was?
Hey man I’m replacing mine right now but cannot find info on whether or not the push rod needs to be oriented a certain way. One side of the rod is smoother / shinier than the other side. Which side is the cam side ? Thanks in advance.
I have an 88 Cheyenne. The previous owner put a 4 barrel carb on it instead of the fuel injection. He ran the fuel line from the tank to the mechanical pump on the older used engine that he installed. The electric pump pushes fuel to the mechanical pump on the side of the block. My question is; is this ok to do or will it cause problems?
Im missing the original bolt for the hole you put the longer bolt in to hold the pushrod up. Any chance you know what size bolt should be there to begin with? Found out thats where my oil leak is from
Is it possible that the camshaft will be stuck in the fuel pump rods furthest outward position? I can't get the pin to push upwards into the hole, do I need to manually turn the engine over a bit to cycle the pin inward?
I've made a big mistake not pushing the rod and installing that fuel pump now that rod it's stucked , didn't put my ingine on top death center I broke the fuel pump also ,, any advise to get that rod out? ☹️
@@ChrisNCars Awesome thanks. I got new one working it seems so far..it wasnt pumping fuel to filter at first so i just squeezed the hose and that seemed to do the trick to get the pump going.
Working on a 83 Firebird, teaching myself. She's still having fuel problems, when I installed a new pump I pushed the rod up by hand, never took off that plate. How likely is it I goofed something?
You shouldn’t need to take the plate off but you need to hold that rod up while putting in pump. You can’t really do that by hand that’s why I use the bolt. The other was is use a saw blade or bendable piece of metal.
@@Avengel-hl5kg I’m not sure how she could hold the rod while you got fuel pump in, it’s a really narrow gap. Could be a lot though kink in tub, old junk in tank plugging something, fuel filter, etc.
It will run, but your going to leak some oil, that goes directly to fuel pump shaft that is lubricated by oil pumping in engine. It’s a super common size just find a new 3/8 - 16 thread and about 1/2 inch long.
Hell yeah thanks for the info! Great video and very informative. Not overwhelming and just enough to get us by. Glad to see some updated videos that aren’t 480p and 7+ years old 😅
@@ChrisNCars I found out my car had this problem and it fouled up my plugs. Got new plugs in, swapped the oil out and my car ran smooth for a day. Shortly after that it feels rough again and my oil reeked of gas. Had a compression check done and it was normal so it's not a piston seal or something.
Odd... my 327 in my 67 impala does not have the holes for the bolts. Its just flat. Makes me wonder if the previous owner did something to it, or if this year production did something different.
@@ChrisNCars That was my first thought, but I checked the casting number. It is dated for this car, made in 67... definitely in a time of mechanical fuel pumps. Never been so confused. I'm currently working on it, wondering how the previous own put on the mech fuel pump that's on it.
Thanks bud awesome vid !! Really helpful !
I am 60, worked on SBC my whole young life and have fought and fought the rod and now I know. Thanks!
Was fighting the rod today on my 74 monte carlo i couldnt get rod fo stay in place an the rod was to far down for me to get the bolts in now i felt like rookie mistakes but man today has been a day thanks for the video🎉
How could i remove the fuel pump Dummy plate on my 5.7l tbi ?
those bolts wont hold my rod in place for some reason...i would need a torque wrench
Just replaced Mine on a rebuilt 87 k10 and just winged it. came to a video to make sure it was done right and now my truck runs again.
I have an 86 K10
But I can't get the pump lever all the way in and fully under the rod.
The rod won't raise any higher so trying to figure something else out
Watched a dozen videos on this. Your the first one I truly understood what needs to happen. Thanks
When installing the fuel pump with the fuel pump rod completely up the fuel pump should sit flush against the block when tightening the bolts it shouldn't have any tension.
Fffff i just did this job on my 1979 z28 and it took me 4 hrs its a lil harder when you dont have much space but thanks to your video i was able to replace my fuel pump third tried cranking it n it turned on one thing less to worry about thanks man!!
Very nicely explained video. Getting ready to change my fuel pump on a 1982 Chevy K30 pickup. I’ve watched a couple videos before this one. This is the best by far!
Finally a straight forward video that makes it simple to understand! Going out to replace my fuel pump now.
Glad it helps!
Did you get it installed? This guy makes it look pretty easy
Excellent tip. I remember that push rod being a major pain when I replaced the fuel pump on my 348 10-15 years ago. Well, it's time to replace it again. I'm definitely doing this hack this time!
This whole time I was just using a stick to keep the rod upright, then I would very quickly move the pump in.....this video helped. I didn't even think about using that' bolt. I'm going to remount the pump today on my 350 small block.
Yours is by far the best video on this subject that I have seen. Thanks!
All right I'm going to try this tomorrow on my 71 K5 for the first time ever. Wish me luck. Was going to go with the electric fuel pump but the fuel pump has lasted a very long time. The spring broke off the rivet so now it doesn't do anything. New one going in tomorrow. Awesome video brother, thank you so much for the help
This was a great help changing the mechanical fuel pump in my boat. 350 5.7. The mounting nut to hold rod back worked like a charm. Thanks.
Glad to help!
I am really happy I found your video.
You did a fantastic job explaining everything and the close up pictures were excellent too.
You went straight to the point!
Thank you!
Well done. I'll be putting mine on in the morning. Thank you.
Great video but I think you used a bit too much silicone. Aside from that man this was much much easier than the other videos. Straight to the point.
Way better video than most of the ones I’ve seen thank you !!
Appreciate it!
Thank you sir..short and to the point! Good job!
Thanks Brotha, getting a little older and like to double check on things I haven't done in a couple decades, lol.
Ha! Glad it helped
that rod gave me absolute hell the last two hours and i had no idea i could do that 😂
Ha! yeah, the little tricks is what its about!
@@ChrisNCars Your a life saver man🙏
Chris ,Excellent tutorial !Spot-on reassembly sequence. Great results on my 65 c20.Please post vid of your awesome clean rebuild so we can hear that engine running ! Thanks , Jonny
Ha! Check out some of my newer videos there are some nice shots of how it’s coming along How to Replace Your Carriage Bearings
ruclips.net/video/sf-c0srktDo/видео.html and CUSTOM Cup Holder
ruclips.net/video/Fz5dQLHam3c/видео.html
65 C20? I'm jealous...
thanks for the video. im about to do this to my 1980 heavy half!
Very helpful! Used this for a 305.
Thank you sir!!! Nice and simple!!! BIG help 👍
I actually knew this trick but thought I missed something when I tried a bolt from a puller kit (not enough threads). I am working on the same exact truck but it has a 307 and they apparently came with a 1/4" outlet with the 3 pumps I had here all being 3/8". I can probably find another bolt, but that trick of using a mounting bolt in a pinch is a great tip. The juggling with the heater hoses, ground wire and brackets makes me want to run to the hardware store. Great video. Another tip for someone just doing a replacement due to failure is have a set of angled pick tools to weasel around the rod and get it up into place with the plate on.
If you are still looking by any chance, summit has what you are looking for. I can give you part numbers if needed.
@@sbcbuilds5517 Big thank you. Got that truck done in the yard during a snow storm because I had a Camaro in the garage and it runs a lot better. I ended up running new 3/8" lines. It still has that beautiful low compression cranking noise but fires up so much faster. Good looking out.
Thanks for simplifying this process 🙌🙌
Thanks, did not know that trick about the push-rod!!
Great Video...No, I'm gonna make everyone in the world think I'm hysterically funny B.S.!! Thank you for that. I 'm doing my 80 corvette pump right now and had no Idea how to hold the rod in place...Many Thanks!
Nice! Glad it helped
This video helps a lot thanks for creating it.
Appreciate it! Glad it helped.
Thanks! My fuel pump is a really tight fit. This will make the install much easier! Thanks again!
Glad it helped!
Very good video!! Very useful and clear, thank you! It hepls me a lot 👍
Thanks buddy. That's a great looking truck. I have a 66 Chevelle and I can't seem to get fuel to the carb. I hope this works.
Right on thank you for your Help Going to work on the old 65 Chevy pick up today. Knock it out. 😂.
Glad it helped!
Dude, you are a lifesaver!
Great video buddy worked for me was going crazy thanks a lot
Nice! Glad it helped
Video is very helpful and is explained really good!!! Thank-you 😊
WELL DONE, CHRIS!!
Very helpful. Thanks for sharing.
Very helpful video men.thank
Took 4 hours to replace in a 70' C10. I didn't know about the bolt that holds the pushrod, I greased to hold it in place. Heard that somewhere.
Thanks bud doing this today.
I never knew about that bolt. I was taught to put some heavy grease on the rod to hold it up, which works so long as the motor is cold. The bolt thing makes much more sense so long as you don't crank the bolt down and damage the push rod.
Yeah that’s why I swap the bolts around!
Mine doesn’t have a bolt
ha, ironic I have the same hat and about to install a new pump on my camaro. The black looks really clean, debating on that or the typical chrome look. Nice vide bud, short and to the point.
Thanks, extra clean touch with a rattle can 😜
Thanks bro
Great videos 💯
Cool thanks man I have an 84 cutlass supreme with a chevy small block and my fuel pump is throwing fuel out killing my mileage. I have never changed a fuel pump outside the tank. Thanks man
I put all 4 bolts in and let it dry 24 hours then remove the top 2 and install the pump. This holds the plate in place if you tighten the bottom bolts without tightening the top you will have a gap.
Easy to understand…Thank you. Liked and Subbed.
THAT ROD IS THE EXACT ISSUE IM HAVING WOTH MY ENGINE. I didn’t know that. Thank you so much for showing that. I’ve been fighting it for a while now to the point of almost giving up and that was the issue all along. But my fuel pump doesn’t have that bracket that goes in between the fuel pump and block though. I don’t know why it didn’t have one
Is there 4 bolt holes like a bracket should go there?
@@ChrisNCars I don’t remember. I’d have to look at it again. The motor is either a 305 or a 307 but I can’t remember
@@ChrisNCars yes. But I’m having trouble getting the roller to come back up so I can get it out, any tips?
@@ChrisNCars I got it put. My bracket was their it just seemed a little smaller throwing me off. It also bender in a bit
FUNNY STORY: I rebuilt my 350 SBC back in 1998 for my 1978 Trans Am, using Edelbrock cam, carb, intake, etc and full machining. I've put 25000 miles on it in the 24 years since as a summer hot rod. Also got married and had a couple kids. So now the fuel pump started leaking and I watched your video. I find that I am missing that bolt that locks the push rod in place. I must never installed it since there is orange paint in the threads. Now I know where the oil has been leaking from all these years!! LOL. Now I'm wondering about that lower bolt hole, about 1.5" below. I can shove a wire in there well over 1". And there is roasted oil all around that hole. It may be from the upper hole, but I'm wondering what that lower hole is for. I noticed your lower hole doesn't have a bolt in it. Can you advise what that lower hole is for? I'm thinking to put a short bolt in both of them just to be on the safe side. Great video by the way!
Thanks for the video. On my block the threaded hole on the side is not a through hole, so it can't be used to hold the pumping rod. Oh well- the assembly grease should hold it.
I had one that wasn't threaded all the way, just took a tap and finished the job. We had a zz4 crate eng. Hole was not drilled in it.
If you put the engine on top dead center the rod goes all the way up and you don’t have to fight putting the bolts in ! 😉
Yeah I mentioned that in the video, but didn’t want to explain putting an engine to top dead center in this video.
Thanks Brother good vid.
プッシュロッドの固定に苦労してました。
非常に助かります。
Way cool. Easy,. Well at least you made it look easy...
Ha! it is pretty easy. Always good to work on your own cars.
@@ChrisNCars totally agree.
I usually slide pushrod up slide a hacksaw blade down between the pushrod & fuel pump arm. Once you get the pump mounted close to the engine block, pull out the hacksaw blade & install the 2 fuel pump mounting bolts. Trust me it works. 👍
Yup that works too!
So that's what that bolt on the front of the block is for!
Haha! You got it
Great video only thing I would have done differently is I would have greased up the fuel pump plunger arm and pivot rod.
Nice add!
Is there a specific kind of grease one should use? I got some for lubing the car. Would that work?
@@thejubieexperience probably motor assembly grease.
@@ChrisNCars Thanks! Very helpful
@@thejubieexperience van use marine grease, it's green colour
Great vide. Just subbed.
Thanks! Hope it helped
good video my brother
If you put the engine on top dead center you don’t have to fight the bolts on the fuel pump 😉
Muy buen video muy vien esplicado , solo una pregunta , si el orificio donde entra el lapiz viene tapado, es solo un tapon ? Se puede destapar ?
May be it has an electric fuel pump and not needed from the factory. Also, camshaft may not have the fuel pump lobe to drive the pump
just barely snug that bolt into the pushrod hole, just enough to hold the rod on place
Nice video , I hate those ratchets though lol
Thank you!
Hey man I got a 93 chevy tbi 350 what’s should I do to cut off the electrical fuel pump to install the mechanical pump so I can skip buying the regulator?
🟥 1) put motor oil on the rod before install
2) put a dab of grease on both ends of the rod
3) use copper coat spray on gaskets instead of silicone.
(You don't want that shit to find it's way into an oil galley)
Been building these things since the 60s. Never a problem.
Then again, everybody does things differently.
Just spray the gaskets and stick them on? I failed miserabely today using silicone. It made a huge mess I didnt feel comfortable so i took it all apart and cleaned it. Ruined both my gaskets in the process.
I'm curious about this too - can you elaborate on the copper coat spray and how to apply?
@jeffmarcum3643 I take a cardboard box, put a hole in the top,drop a wire down the hole,put my gasket on the end of the wire,spray both sides of the gasket with the copper coat spray. When it tacks up, stick it to where you want and assemble. Easy peasy...Done
@@paulricelli5520 What about the actual fuel pump once its ready to go on? How do you spray that without spraying the inside?
@lloydchristmas1086 spray both sides of the gasket ONLY. When it gets tacky...do your assembly
You learn something new ever day
The front small bolt. 3/8"-16 x 1/2"
Bro my buddy snapped this bolt in half at 1am this morning commen is too helpful
Damn I wish I had watched this great video BEFORE I removed my old fuel pump!!!
Fuel pump rod fell and I can't get it pushed back up in the block. Any advice on this will be greatly appreciated 👍
Is it going in at all? Putting the engine at top dead center will make it go higher.
Put a rag in the fuel pump block hole to keep junk from falling into the engine.
@@johnmorykwas2343 always do, missed showing for video though 😅
PERFECT
Nice vedio how do you know if fuel pump is going out
Just found your channel and will be subscribing. Was looking because my son's Nova suddenly had fuel leaking and found that the bolt that you put in to hold the rod is missing. You explained everything well. What size did you say the bolt was?
You want a 3/8th” x 16 x 1/2”
Very helpful especially with the rod.
What does that short bolt do?
Probable just designed to hold up the rod and plug the hole 🤷♂️
Step 1. Top dead center. Makes it so much easier.
Yeah I mentioned that but not necessary.
I'm do you really need to take out the bolt on the side of the fuel pump I'm having a hard time trying to take it out
Hey man I’m replacing mine right now but cannot find info on whether or not the push rod needs to be oriented a certain way. One side of the rod is smoother / shinier than the other side. Which side is the cam side ? Thanks in advance.
Smoother rounder side I would assume what you want hitting the cam
I have an 88 Cheyenne. The previous owner put a 4 barrel carb on it instead of the fuel injection.
He ran the fuel line from the tank to the mechanical pump on the older used engine that he installed. The electric pump pushes fuel to the mechanical pump on the side of the block.
My question is; is this ok to do or will it cause problems?
Short answer is use one or the other. Probably best to remove mechanical but if the electric has too much pressure on carb that’s not good either.
The bottom bolts on the bracket does anyone know the size
I have changed dozens of these and never realized that bolt did that..... I feel like a dummy lol
Excellent video. What's the difference between the longer (height wise) pumps vs the shorty one you installed?
Do you mean the bowl being longer? Just more fuel capacity, more gas.
@@ChrisNCars Yea the bowl part.
Do all fuel pumps need that bracket? I have a 1981 silverado with a small block and mine doesnt have a bracket.
Im missing the original bolt for the hole you put the longer bolt in to hold the pushrod up. Any chance you know what size bolt should be there to begin with? Found out thats where my oil leak is from
I believe it is short, like half inch. If you tighten a bolt in there and it doesn’t go all the way down it’s too long 😜
Is it possible that the camshaft will be stuck in the fuel pump rods furthest outward position? I can't get the pin to push upwards into the hole, do I need to manually turn the engine over a bit to cycle the pin inward?
Put the engine at top dead center, that should allow the rod to go higher.
I've made a big mistake not pushing the rod and installing that fuel pump now that rod it's stucked , didn't put my ingine on top death center I broke the fuel pump also ,, any advise to get that rod out? ☹️
Since the fuel pump has just 2 bolts, why do you also remove the plate that has 4 bolts? Is it to just push the rod up with your finger?
Because it was leaking so I replaced both 😜
Thanks. How long does the silicone need to dry for before you start vehicle?
Technically you can start immediately, I give it a few hours
@@ChrisNCars Awesome thanks. I got new one working it seems so far..it wasnt pumping fuel to filter at first so i just squeezed the hose and that seemed to do the trick to get the pump going.
شكرا 👍👍👍👍
Working on a 83 Firebird, teaching myself. She's still having fuel problems, when I installed a new pump I pushed the rod up by hand, never took off that plate. How likely is it I goofed something?
You shouldn’t need to take the plate off but you need to hold that rod up while putting in pump. You can’t really do that by hand that’s why I use the bolt. The other was is use a saw blade or bendable piece of metal.
@@ChrisNCars My gf held the rod up while I installed, I think she's good? Carb still isn't getting gas so somethings iffy
@@Avengel-hl5kg I’m not sure how she could hold the rod while you got fuel pump in, it’s a really narrow gap. Could be a lot though kink in tub, old junk in tank plugging something, fuel filter, etc.
Grrrr! I’m under the car now and can’t find a video on getting the pushrod up and in! C’mon now!
What happens if you’re missing the bolt in front of the block? I swapped my pump but lost the bolt. Can I still run the truck without it?
It will run, but your going to leak some oil, that goes directly to fuel pump shaft that is lubricated by oil pumping in engine. It’s a super common size just find a new 3/8 - 16 thread and about 1/2 inch long.
Hell yeah thanks for the info! Great video and very informative. Not overwhelming and just enough to get us by. Glad to see some updated videos that aren’t 480p and 7+ years old 😅
My mechanical fuel pump have a long thing on it that the rod hit will it still work
Does you pump look the one in the video? There is a lever the rod pushes on but I can’t tell you your good without seeing it
Would gas get mixed in with the motor oil if any of these gaskets go out?
Not unless the internal seals in pump failed?
@@ChrisNCars I found out my car had this problem and it fouled up my plugs. Got new plugs in, swapped the oil out and my car ran smooth for a day. Shortly after that it feels rough again and my oil reeked of gas.
Had a compression check done and it was normal so it's not a piston seal or something.
Odd... my 327 in my 67 impala does not have the holes for the bolts. Its just flat. Makes me wonder if the previous owner did something to it, or if this year production did something different.
Probably a newer v8 that would assume electric pump?
@@ChrisNCars That was my first thought, but I checked the casting number. It is dated for this car, made in 67... definitely in a time of mechanical fuel pumps. Never been so confused. I'm currently working on it, wondering how the previous own put on the mech fuel pump that's on it.
#1
What happens if u don’t put the rod back in the right spot? Will the fuel pump go back on?
You can only put the rod in one way? The pump wouldn’t work without rod
How tight do the bolts go? My gasket broke from over tightening
20-25 foot pounds doesn’t need to be crazy tight
tried it in my 1960 283...it was a blind hole
my 79 GMC Sierra Grande doesn't have a bracket on it, is that unusual, something missing, something I should worry about?
If it’s a 350 or 5.7 just look up what year should have
Didnt do this on a 84 C10. You must use fuel resistant/proof sealant
The bolt you put back in did u tighten it hard? The one that was holding the pushrod?
No like 15-20 pounds of torque
@@ChrisNCars is it necessary for that bolt? I’ve seen many engine builds and none of them have it
@@bigbawsz2054 it will leak without it if you have a mechanical pump. If you don’t have mechanical you probably have a plate and plug over all this.