There is nothing more annoying than when people try to bring politics into everything even when the topic at hand has absolutely nothing to do with anything political.
@@briang4470 it’s becoming just as irritating to see the constant comments about “no politics” ....as if nobody who makes these comments is capable of able to do exactly what they’re claiming is so critical that people do. Just appreciate it by stfu don’t mention the crap you’re saying you appreciate people not mentioning. It’s pretty simple.
Places like AutoZone drove people away from them. My Dad dailied a 68 F100 for about 30 years Dad worked there in the 90's-2000's and I don't know how many got the split in the side and squirted fuel all over the suspension. We'd start smelling gas and instantly knew what was wrong. So he was on the fuel pump, power steering pump and alternator warranty rotation plan. Rotate them out every 6 months... But hey, they were free and he was on SSI so he had to do what he had to do...
I'll add a tip I learned, especially if you drive your hotrod a lot in hot climates and use a return line regulator: Do NOT oversize the electric pump by too much. Most of the fuel is being returned to the tank and is getting hotter and hotter as it circulates. Remote mounting the regulator out of the engine compartment helps, as does installing a cooler on the return line. But for simplicity, I switched to a pump that more closely matched the actual peak demand of the engine.
I know it's two different things but, I love hearing the Mopar Starter whine and not start the first or second time and the third time it Rumbles to life, I am a purest and the sentimental feeling of how it was done in the 70's is pure Nostalgic Gold. My brother who is a "Mechanic" brought up the Idea of an Electrical Fuel Pump on my 70 Cuda.... after research of the Noise, connect to Battery, more Wires, Fuses, etc. it would have been a regret, goes to show a title does not mean common sense. Btw I looked up his horoscope and he should have been a bookkeeper Yup that says it all.
I ran a holley red years ago in a 78 4dr C20 I stuffed a 4.3 V6 in with a Q jet and home built HEI, Mounted it on the frame up front and worked great as a puller.
Hah! I like how you mentioned the Ballast Resistors! ***Ohmmmmmmm*** I fricked up my '78 f150 resistor wire by that elec pump! now it's a copper wire with an inline fuse and completely EFI'd minivan wasted spark coilpack.
I think you missed safety on this one uncle T. An electric pump should also have a shutoff for when the engine isn't running...I always wire mine through an oil pressure switch..got to crank a little till pressure comes up to start the pump...but if you ever roll the car you don't want the pump still going.
Yes..also handy for when your "wife" leaves the damn key on ...I have bypassed your crank issue 2 different ways, one I put a relay timer,that's an additional cost that many don't find necessary but 15 sec on is nice for priming the carb then it shuts down until oil pressure comes up....the other which is cheaper is wire up just as you do then have a "temporary on" push button in the car that runs the pump while you physically hold the button down , this setup also will get you home in the event your oil sending unit stops working but either way I have grown against switch on stay on wiring since I have had wife and childern,never was a problem when I was single imagine that😉
@Tom Cat i have thought of that but never took the time to do it,I primarily tinker with 40-50 year old ford trucks they all kinda get a different treatment but haven't went that far yet...now if/when I get a 70's 4door ford cab I'm going all out on something really special,the rest are beaters I work and play with now days
@Tom Cat oh yes..been there😉 been screwing around with these since they were on showroom floors...I'm convinced you just can't beat em if you ACTUALLY use your truck
I typically ground straight to the block my obvious main cable, then a 10 guage ground from engine to firewall on a clean non painted surface and the small 14 guage accessories wire on battery cable to fender once again clean unpainted surface and with that i have never had any issues even running significant aftermarket accessories...actually I have a 74 that I added an additional wire from starter bolt to frame rail...I don't remember why I did that I did it like 20 years ago...I think it may have been tail light issue
@@wolfmanrebel874 Ive always just wired my fuel pumps to a flip switch in the car. It is a smart idea to have the switch hidden somewhere so if someone tries to steal your car the car wont run. We do this all the time with 1990's honda's because theft is an issue with these cars they get stolen all the time but if I had a muscle car I would still do it because you can never be too safe.
I ordered the Carter 4070, ran 2 tees with a check valve in between so the pump can't feed a little into the tank, and I got a momentary toggle switch to prime that can also stay on if I want, relay with keyed ignition so it can't be turned on with the truck off, can't wait to install it!
Electric IS better period. It will go above and beyond what combustion engines could ever hope to do. But combustion is art, it's vicious, it's measured, it's passionate... Photoshop may be better than what you can do with real paint, but it's still not the same.
My buddy built a 68 Charger with a 383. It ran 9.5-1 compression flat top pistons, solid lifter cam with flat tappets, Holley Street Dominator, 906 heads ported with Mopar Performance Templates, and of course Headers. I can’t remember the size, but the engine shifted at 7,000 rpm. This was a street strip car that probably would have run a hydraulic cam for any of our customers, but this was built by the Machinest who owned the car. The exhaust heat crossovers were blocked off, and it ran a windage tray with a deep sump pan, ran one quart low. We estimated hp to be between 450 and 500 hp. The car was also set up for drag racing with 318 torsion bars up front, an 8 3/4 rear end with properly adjusted pinion snubber. Aft Er the engine was broken in, 3,000 miles according to Mopar Performance’s DC engine Bible, we took it to the track to see what the car would run. We took it to Firebird Raceway when it first opened for some Friday Night drags. They had some teething problems there from the start. The owner dialed in a 13.0 on the fist pass because we had no idea what it would run. We estimated low 12’s but you never know. The car was runn8ng 104+ Octane boost in a mix of regular and High octane which in AZ was 91. Most everyone else gets 93 octane. I don’t know why they shorted us. The car next to us was a regular at the track, a 70 Maverick with a 300 cid truck engine in it. That’s a big six with 4” bore and 4” stroke. If he punched it out .030” that makes 306 cubes. The car ran consistent @11.0’s every time I’d ever seen it run, and that was a lot over the years at two tracks, Firebird and Phoenix Dragway in Whitman AZ. So we lined up next to him and his light went off first, ours 2 seconds later. In other words they swapped dial ins at the lights and he got our leave. The Charger launched hard, just like it was supposed to. When the driver sidestepped the clutch the car stood up, axle wrapped as far as the pinion snubber would let it moving the instant ant center towards the rear tires and then if lurched forward, hard and T by the end of the track it started to fall off. Perplexed we made a second pass, and this time, the lights were still reversed, but by mid track my buddy had caught the Mavick, u til it fell off, a bit sooner the time. We brought it back to the pits where we had towels soaking in ice water, put them on thr 8ntak runners to cool things off and began checking everything, the car had an alternator cutoff switch, but in the pits the battery was right up where it should be. So it wants a battery issue. We checked the distributor cap and rotor, and they were fine. We swapped the fuel filter next to the carb checke the 0lug wires with an ohmmeter and everything was fine. We began to suspect the fuel pump, and we didn’t have a paste with us. The next pass it was more of the same, sweet launch, catching the car next to us by mid track, but this time it fell off much sooner. We made one more pass and it fell flat on s face by mid trac. Obviously there was something wrong and it was geting worse, so we packed up and headed back to his house, and I followed in case had to tow him home. The next da we got a new fuel pump. Mechanical, and an electric that we mounted just outside the tank. He test drove it down all empty road and it did the same thong. We brought it back h9me, took and at hose and blew out the sock filter in the gas tank. But it didn’t blow off any debris, it blew the sock off the pickup tube, completely. So we drained the gas tank and put it n his street car and what wouldn’t ft there or in his five gallon tank went into my truck. Always willing to help! The we pulled the tank out of the car and discovered that it was full of rusty, and the tank sock had gotten plugged during our race night. So we got a replacement tank mounted it a made a 1/2” steel line from the electric pump at the tank all the way up to the mechanical pump, then int9 the carb. The mechanical pump had a pressure regulator so we could adjust that slightly, and we kept it at 9lbs pressure. So now the car was getting gas when it was needed, we ran a second battery mounting both in the trunk in parallel so it would lose a charge running the electric fuel pump and electronic ignition during each pass. The next weekend out saw high 11’s. What else could you ask for. A few weeks later I had an opportunity to drive the car and it was extremely docile at lower rpms with the four speed. Very 0leasent to drive, and after we sorted out the fuel delivery problems it rams very well at the track! I think we were running Carter pumps as we were factory direct with Carter, and when your paying cost plus 5% for inventory control and shipping, why wouldn’t you? The Holley I take was a used piece and it ran a thermoquad tuned for the motor.
I also put a cheap crash switch from a Ford cop car crown vic in the trunk inline with the pump circuit. That way if you are in a crash or impact of any kind it cuts power to the pump. Just hit the red button on the switch to reset it. Can be mounted anywhere in the car. Got it for $10 at the loca yard. For guys running the electric prime pump for their mechanical pump, wire it through a relay, ground the relay cpil from the oil pressure switch. That way when the engine is running (has oil pressure) the pump automatically stops.
Great that the Road Runner is getting the spotlight on you channel! All the hot rodding and mods you do on the A-bodies and other metal is good, but the B-body Mopars RULED the streets back in the day. They were the brutes that kicked sand in everyone's faces.
Here in holland I had a Hardi electric feul pomp on a secend gen Camaro. It was a pusher but used for years like a puller :P. The only downside was the hard "tikking" from under the bonnet
I love the amount of knowledge you have. The haters may not understand, but I do perfectly. THIS is what is missing in many modern hot rodders, and they also tend to lack the ability to listen and learn. I have applied things you have talked about to much more modern cars, namely a 1993 Acura Integra with a high compression (12.26:1) B18A1 with a ported GS-R head, a 1998 Honda Prelude with a JDM H22 and my 1992 Honda Civic with its D15B7 engine. Everything you talk about, still (mostly) applies to those engines. There are a few things that had to be changed, mostly because Honda engines tend to be happiest around 13.5:1 AFR under heavy load, and like to run around 15:1 to 14:1 under light loads. I have shown some of these videos to my friend with the Integra, and he even understands better what I have done with his car.
On my 61 Chevy pick up, I bypassed the mechanical pump and put in an inexpensive electric pump. Truck doesn't even need the choke anymore. Just run the pump for a few seconds and it fires right off.
@@johnpossum556 he hasnt finished the 1st dam thing since he started... hes hittin the bong w/Cali sour diesel buds & these dreamers run behind him... pitiful...
I went electric out of paranoia once... My 318 67 Dart GT fuel pump had an uncommon failure. One day the car wouldnt turn over. Ok, changed starter. New one, same thing. WTH?? Tried to bar engine over, it was really difficult. Uh-oh, time to drop the pan. Pulled the plug and the stream blew the plug outta my hand. Overflowed the drain pan by a few gallons!! The pump had completely filled the crankcase with gas til it was hydrolocked!! After dropping pan, wiping everything out, and a few oil changes back to back after just cranking engine over without spark, was back in business!! That engine was absolutely spotless inside after that!! Hung an electric pump out back and blocked off the mech hole because of sheer paranoia of a Hiroshima-like future event. I was young...🤣🤣
Over here in oz my 1980 Chrysler with a 318 was running a mechanical fuel pump but once the cam,intake and 4 barrel edelbrock went on I was told the wheezy little mechanical pump supplied only 25gph! Which wouldn’t be enough,So he installed a carter gold electric fuel pump. Seems to run fine and the pump is not that noisy at all.
The fuel pump just went out in my 70 vette, 350 small block w/Holly 750. So now I have to have it flat bed to a garage to put a new one in. It kills me because back in the day I was a Chevy mechanic but I'm 65 and don't have any way to do it myself.
I always wanted to go electric but heck I couldn't figure electric pumps out. I don't exactly like mechanical ones and I still can't get rid of the gas smell in my oil from almost half a year ago but it's simple and it works good enough for government work.
Every now and then, one of my gearhead friends has fuel issues and decides to put an electric pump in... then the REAL FUN problems start, like leaky float valves or a chinesium pressure regulator allowing a gallon of fuel into the intake.
What I hate is when people take the time to install an electric pump but don't bother by-passing the mechanical one. Half the time they don't wire them up worth a crap, the wires get pinched or rub through (some people don't even bother wiring it through a fuse, just a wire from the battery, to a toggle switch, and to the pump) and the pump shorts out or they forget to shut it off and kill the battery, then they bring it to me to fix. I ask them why they didn't just replace the mechanical pump and they look at me like *I'M* the idiot.
I had a Pressure regulator... ahhh, let's call it a Shower Head.. best description.. thank Jesus Chrysler that I was only moving my car 10 feet.. the word Gas is in the name and he's called Mr.. just sayin.. be safe out there..
@@AlienGrade what the fuck is your problem... you took the time.. so what is it then.. I said a Mr Gasket Fuel pressure regulator turn into a shower head, filling the concave portions of the manifold with pools of gas.. you good now..
Great video! I could’ve used this info a few months ago when I was having fuel issues. I been through a few pumps and fuel pressure regulators. I’m now using that carter 4070 pump you got. Has a built in regulator, it’s been great!
On my 1972 Mercury Montgo, 351C engine, the mechanical fuel pump gets hot and quits pumping. I put a Holley Red pump on it. Bingo! Solved my problem. Installed fuel guage, the pressure never drops. Stays at 7psi. Factory fuel tank. Weiand Tunnel-Ram 2 450 cfm Holley carbs. Thanks for info.
An A/C thumper pump will push 5 gallons of gasoline in about 8-10 seconds😀 through a single Spread bore Holley 800 DP 😀 but it has to be in the rear of the car or it will stop pumping. I had 1 on a 454 in a 57 Chevy years ago, it sucked up 5gals of feul in 4 gears in about 10 seconds. What a ride. Wish I still had it😔
Tony, your hemi pump can be rebuilt. Mancini carries kits, and although i have done a couple im not real thrilled with the chineez feeling kit, but it can be done. As far as electric on the street = noisy and and i would run some sort of oil pressure or tach signal switch
I just replaced the mechanical pump on my 79 suburban. It hadn't been running well for a few weeks, kept getting worse, turned out the pump was leaking internally, returning more fuel than it was getting to the carb. I plugged the return hose, which made it run a whole lot better, but it started spraying fuel out the side of the pump. I grabbed an old pump out of the shop, took about 30 minutes to install it. Hot rods are one thing, run whatever pump you want, but my stock, daily drivers will never, ever see electric pumps. I can still get gas without ethanol in it, but like Tony said, it still evaporates out of the carb if the truck sets for a week. That doesn't bother me, it just takes a few more cranks. As long as I can still get new replacement mechanical pumps, why bother spending 3x the time and labor to install an electric pump?
I HATE when you see a nice old classic and before it fires up, you hear an electric fuel pump GRRRRRRRRROOOAAANNNNNNNN . It's super obnoxious. I have a new holley 80gph mech pump and a holley 4160 carb, my car regularly sits for a week, it starts right up with one pump of the gas. I seriously don't understand what everyone is talkin about. I'm always using 93 octane, maybe it's a better blend and tony is using 87 could be worse?
@@ArdFarkable Thank you, I'm glad someone agrees. What I hate the most about electric pumps is that they're usually installed half assed, with self drilling screws right into the underbody, then plumbed right into the stock system by cutting metal lines and installing hoses so it has to pump through the old mechanical pump anyway.
I noticed even the well known named brands / built mechanical fuel pumps like Carter ect are now made in china or Mexico ect and cheaply built . I've had to keep an extra pump in the box behind the seat . but I'm think about electric fuel pump . I was told 5 psi max of fuel pressure for 1 - 2 barrel carbs and 6 psi max for 4 barrels ?
My 4bbl Edelbrock will flood at 7psi. I have a electric high flow 155gph QuickFuel pump paired with a return Aeromotive regulator (1/2in pickup and return with 3/8 from regulator to carb, more adjustable that way)
@@allanmcelroy9840 make sure when you take the top of the edlebrock off and flip it upside down check the float level . I set mine at about 1/2" - 11/32's with gasket on carburator housing lid and make sure no more then 6 psi while running at idle and when you reev it up . I also take a autobody scotch brite pad and sand the hinges of the fuel float just to polish them only then take out the fuel needle and scrub the 3 spots of the fuel needle to make sure their smooth and then clean everything with carb choke cleaner and reassemble. you can use a long drill bit same size as mentioned up top just use the end the goes into the drill
@@allanmcelroy9840 its just enough of a lite adbrasive to clean the brass . I also lightly scribe the floats as well . check where the float pivots on the brass rod that flat round area the pivots up against the metal tower that the brass rod slides through and make sure its not rubbing up against it and the float has the freedom of pivoting als make sure on the floats that the brass tab on the back of the floats are adjusted rich so the float doesnt touch the bottom of the fuel bowl
I went electric too, I felt a little ...fancy... But it works really well. I'd run the mechanical but the China repros they sell for stovebolts are no good
Was a shocker when a buddy put a gauge on his gto and went for a rip. Higher gears the more the pressure dropped. He added an electric in the setup and it felt like it added 30hp. (Not a gain really I know , just getting back what's lost due to issues)
Mechanical fuel pump for the win. I dont have an issue changing the pump on occasion. The Chevy OBS truck in tank pumps give up the ghost constantly and you have to take the bed off each time and its a huge pain. A lot easier to lean over the fender and change one.
I can’t find any Teflon core braided hose at the plumbing supply stores - it’s all pvc on the inside. The only place i can find Teflon core is from places like summit. It’s not cheap either.
Tony do a video on the dual quad intakes you use. I see OEM iron 383 and Offenhauser in your garage. Many people have forgotten about Offy as Edelbrock became the biggest player.
@@Welcometofacsistube offenhauser still makes the daul 4 spread-bore intake for the 383/400, it's the offenhauser 5750. Summit racing has them on their website.
Ut on my older diesel i made a fuel heater i wrapped it around my upper rad hose then back into injection pump i truly feel it run smooter than b4..my 2 cents again..
I bought a Carter electric pump a few years ago. I don't remember which part number it was, but it didn't work well at all. I tried remounting several times as close and level to tank as possible, still didn't work... Sent my hard to find mechanical pump off to be rebuilt, and it's been fine ever since... I can't wait to see how it works for you, please keep us updated... Really like your channel, keep up the great work/videos!!!!!
Why do I not have those same percolation issues with that same exact mechanical pump on my daily 71 Dart? (360LA) As long as I'm using the oem vapor return line, that is.
In one of my 440’s! I haven’t touched in 4-5 years I gave it a refresh,maniacal pump. No matter what I did it kept running out out gas????? My god I lost sleep over this..long story short.. the fuel pump push pin was worn down and wasn’t depressing the fuel pump arm in far enough! That’s a first time for me! Just saying.
ive got a Carter pump on my 77 k10..... which MIGHT have been a factory // dealer installed thing....as its got a skid plate it makes quite a bit of noise..... but ya cant kill the damn thing . and ya always know if your pump is on....because of said noise.... which i see as a plus
and when we rebuild my dads 440 (rod knock...BIG sad face ).....its gonna get a carter pump . they just work.... dont have to worry about anything (oil dilution, oil leaks, fuel leaks etc)
A properly functioning mechanical fuel pump should not be malfunctioning or encountering any percolation issues. They will work perfectly fine on a 300-500 hp engine assuming all is well with your fuel system (i.e. no restrictions on the suction side, etc)
The push pump in my V8 Vega's fuel tank quit, so rather than dropping the tank to replace the dead one, I removed the dummy plate on the SBC block and installed an old 283 fuel pump there. It pulled right past the non-functional pusher pump in the tank. That shameful setup became a speed limiter if you tried to exceed 120 mph (which was unwise in that deathtrap anyway).
Hi there!,1958 AMC Rambler Super (pt.21) here, watched this video and learned a thing or two, but I'll have to search for videos of people who go into details about how a mechanical fuel pump can be rebuilt (if it needs to be) my 195.6 ohv six cylinder engine that's being rebuilt uses one of those really old mechanical fuel pumps and I don't know if it works, I've got my fingers crossed!
UT, as usual excellent, but I think I have seen some old GM mech fuel pumps with a tell tale hole, that if a diaphragm breaks, it will leak gasoline onto the ground, and not into the crankcase? Been a while.
You should consider running the pump with a relay and triggering it through a oil pressure switch, I know the wiring could get complicated but when you are upside-down in a ditch you don't need to be pumping gas on the wreck, just saying.
B body gas tanks the fuel pickup is at front of tank and doesn't have far to draw but there is an important screen on it and most are 5/16. The clips in frame are for 5/16 steel line as well ( rocker counts as frame). Hemi cars had 3/8 line which is a bitch to bend. Usually the problem on big block engines is not the pump but pump rod because it was assembled without lube and it burns the shaft. That hex plug beneath fuel pump opening is for rod. Check against a good or new one if it is visibly short that is reason for fuel starvation. Happens a lot. Don't hook fuel pump into either side of ballast resistor one side is cut off during startup and your pump won't work. Steel line from pump or fuel line goes behind alternator under the distributor and two carbs. Should not be a flexible line at all on engine itself. Btw most carb fittings have a 1/4 orifice on carb. The one that screws in with fine thread and a gasket. If you want to run more fuel through it needs to be changed and most stock carter inlet float jets don't have extra opening on side for extra fuel.
@UncleTony'sGarage , why don't you get like a delphi pump for an lsi based engine and pull the sending unit and just put the pump right onto the outlet fuel line and push thru that and then you can mount the regulator underneath by the tank for that hidden stock appearance. Ive learned that Delphi pumps running straight and not off pulse width modulation work great on street motors
Also they will suck gas also the have a v8 swap replacement electric fuel pump for the old bronco 2s that used a pump on the fram rails and those are also puller pumps
Would you be able to show how to check fuel pressure using a Vacuum Gauge on an upcoming video and if a fuel pressure regulator is needed? This would be in regards to a 65 Olds 442 with a 400 cui stock engine. Thanks
I use a fuel pump relay to energize my pump. It's a dedicated circuit for the fuel pump only. I have a bump switch for safety, and a manual kill switch next to the ignition key. Don't play games without a way to shut down the pump. I don't use mechanical pumps.
@uncletonysgarage Can you use the 3 way fuel filter at the top of the engine with a holley blue line electric pump? My 85 c10 has the electric pump and also has vapor lock issues when restarting the engine when it is hot. Thanks
I agree to a point. I own a 1972 charger with a 318. Fuel pump went, flooded the crankcase with gas in oil and ruined the motor. It runs of the cam and is directly in the block. If the diaphragm goes bye bye oil
I run a $40 electric pump on my 59. The engine starts like a modern EFI car. Hot or cold. My 79 C30 just has a mechanical pump, have to crank that for 10 or more seconds to get fuel up to the carb. Worse when I want to restart a hot engine. Ethanol gas boils out of the carb quickly.
I just spend the 25 bucks for a delphi mechanical fuel pump. It costs less than a tank of gas. Part stores generally carry them too so you can fix it right in their parking lot.
Saw a youtube video I should have watched efore starting an old truck sitting for years. The fuel pump diaphragm rotts then you try and start it. It dumps gas into oil.
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Still here. Still paying attention. Thanks Tony!
What's up Man..
I appreciate ya Uncle Tony and Kathy, thank u both
Question: Why do I like Uncle Tony?
Answer: No pandemics and a shared love of Mopar cars.
There is nothing more annoying than when people try to bring politics into everything even when the topic at hand has absolutely nothing to do with anything political.
Yes... thanks for saying ..
@@briang4470 it’s becoming just as irritating to see the constant comments about “no politics” ....as if nobody who makes these comments is capable of able to do exactly what they’re claiming is so critical that people do. Just appreciate it by stfu don’t mention the crap you’re saying you appreciate people not mentioning. It’s pretty simple.
Thank you, that was very interesting, you mentioned a few tips I haven't thought about.
Wow Tony I haven't seen a crank driven fuel pump in 30 years. Your one of the best thanks again.
Places like AutoZone drove people away from them. My Dad dailied a 68 F100 for about 30 years Dad worked there in the 90's-2000's and I don't know how many got the split in the side and squirted fuel all over the suspension. We'd start smelling gas and instantly knew what was wrong. So he was on the fuel pump, power steering pump and alternator warranty rotation plan. Rotate them out every 6 months... But hey, they were free and he was on SSI so he had to do what he had to do...
@@BRIAN14263 Thats what I meant a couple of years ago😁
I'll add a tip I learned, especially if you drive your hotrod a lot in hot climates and use a return line regulator: Do NOT oversize the electric pump by too much. Most of the fuel is being returned to the tank and is getting hotter and hotter as it circulates. Remote mounting the regulator out of the engine compartment helps, as does installing a cooler on the return line. But for simplicity, I switched to a pump that more closely matched the actual peak demand of the engine.
First repair I ever did by myself, Changed the fuel pump on my 69 Dart. Worked good.
Hi uncle tony thank you for all the good information on fuel pumps👍🔧🚘
I know it's two different things but, I love hearing the Mopar Starter whine and not start the first or second time and the third time it Rumbles to life, I am a purest and the sentimental feeling of how it was done in the 70's is pure Nostalgic Gold. My brother who is a "Mechanic" brought up the Idea of an Electrical Fuel Pump on my 70 Cuda.... after research of the Noise, connect to Battery, more Wires, Fuses, etc. it would have been a regret, goes to show a title does not mean common sense. Btw I looked up his horoscope and he should have been a bookkeeper Yup that says it all.
I have the same intake on a 400 with 509 purple shaft cam, windage tray and milled heads in my sons 86’ 2wd ram charger. She’s a screamer 💯
I ran a holley red years ago in a 78 4dr C20 I stuffed a 4.3 V6 in with a Q jet and home built HEI, Mounted it on the frame up front and worked great as a puller.
As always thanks for the knowledge Uncle Tony
Where were you when I first started playing with electric pumps, would have saved me alot of grief and money 👍again great info
That Roadrunner is the coolest car you own (in my opinion) and I'm looking forward to future content revolving around it.
Hah! I like how you mentioned the Ballast Resistors! ***Ohmmmmmmm*** I fricked up my '78 f150 resistor wire by that elec pump! now it's a copper wire with an inline fuse and completely EFI'd minivan wasted spark coilpack.
OHM...😑
I think you missed safety on this one uncle T. An electric pump should also have a shutoff for when the engine isn't running...I always wire mine through an oil pressure switch..got to crank a little till pressure comes up to start the pump...but if you ever roll the car you don't want the pump still going.
Yes..also handy for when your "wife" leaves the damn key on ...I have bypassed your crank issue 2 different ways, one I put a relay timer,that's an additional cost that many don't find necessary but 15 sec on is nice for priming the carb then it shuts down until oil pressure comes up....the other which is cheaper is wire up just as you do then have a "temporary on" push button in the car that runs the pump while you physically hold the button down , this setup also will get you home in the event your oil sending unit stops working but either way I have grown against switch on stay on wiring since I have had wife and childern,never was a problem when I was single imagine that😉
@Tom Cat i have thought of that but never took the time to do it,I primarily tinker with 40-50 year old ford trucks they all kinda get a different treatment but haven't went that far yet...now if/when I get a 70's 4door ford cab I'm going all out on something really special,the rest are beaters I work and play with now days
@Tom Cat oh yes..been there😉 been screwing around with these since they were on showroom floors...I'm convinced you just can't beat em if you ACTUALLY use your truck
I typically ground straight to the block my obvious main cable, then a 10 guage ground from engine to firewall on a clean non painted surface and the small 14 guage accessories wire on battery cable to fender once again clean unpainted surface and with that i have never had any issues even running significant aftermarket accessories...actually I have a 74 that I added an additional wire from starter bolt to frame rail...I don't remember why I did that I did it like 20 years ago...I think it may have been tail light issue
@@wolfmanrebel874 Ive always just wired my fuel pumps to a flip switch in the car. It is a smart idea to have the switch hidden somewhere so if someone tries to steal your car the car wont run. We do this all the time with 1990's honda's because theft is an issue with these cars they get stolen all the time but if I had a muscle car I would still do it because you can never be too safe.
Can’t wait for the 451 Stroker build!
Great feedback Uncle Tony! Keep it 100 and stay loyal to efficiency! Much appreciated!
Just here for the algorithm. Thanks for another great video Tony
This is amazing info to know, thank you for sharing your knowledge with us!
I ordered the Carter 4070, ran 2 tees with a check valve in between so the pump can't feed a little into the tank, and I got a momentary toggle switch to prime that can also stay on if I want, relay with keyed ignition so it can't be turned on with the truck off, can't wait to install it!
uncle tony going electric over mechanical? im crushed my life has no meaning now.
With today’s gas, electric is helpful!
Well it beats the ultra reliable gravity feed alternative that fills your motor full of gas when the needle doesn't seat perfect. :-)
Electric IS better period. It will go above and beyond what combustion engines could ever hope to do. But combustion is art, it's vicious, it's measured, it's passionate... Photoshop may be better than what you can do with real paint, but it's still not the same.
@@snakeballs8965 can I recharge my battery in 5 minutes?
lol
Loved the close up of the engine bay. I gre up with my dads 70 satellite 383 alpine white.
My buddy built a 68 Charger with a 383. It ran 9.5-1 compression flat top pistons, solid lifter cam with flat tappets, Holley Street Dominator, 906 heads ported with Mopar Performance Templates, and of course Headers. I can’t remember the size, but the engine shifted at 7,000 rpm. This was a street strip car that probably would have run a hydraulic cam for any of our customers, but this was built by the Machinest who owned the car. The exhaust heat crossovers were blocked off, and it ran a windage tray with a deep sump pan, ran one quart low. We estimated hp to be between 450 and 500 hp. The car was also set up for drag racing with 318 torsion bars up front, an 8 3/4 rear end with properly adjusted pinion snubber. Aft Er the engine was broken in, 3,000 miles according to Mopar Performance’s DC engine Bible, we took it to the track to see what the car would run. We took it to Firebird Raceway when it first opened for some Friday Night drags. They had some teething problems there from the start. The owner dialed in a 13.0 on the fist pass because we had no idea what it would run. We estimated low 12’s but you never know. The car was runn8ng 104+ Octane boost in a mix of regular and High octane which in AZ was 91. Most everyone else gets 93 octane. I don’t know why they shorted us. The car next to us was a regular at the track, a 70 Maverick with a 300 cid truck engine in it. That’s a big six with 4” bore and 4” stroke. If he punched it out .030” that makes 306 cubes. The car ran consistent @11.0’s every time I’d ever seen it run, and that was a lot over the years at two tracks, Firebird and Phoenix Dragway in Whitman AZ. So we lined up next to him and his light went off first, ours 2 seconds later. In other words they swapped dial ins at the lights and he got our leave. The Charger launched hard, just like it was supposed to. When the driver sidestepped the clutch the car stood up, axle wrapped as far as the pinion snubber would let it moving the instant ant center towards the rear tires and then if lurched forward, hard and T by the end of the track it started to fall off. Perplexed we made a second pass, and this time, the lights were still reversed, but by mid track my buddy had caught the Mavick, u til it fell off, a bit sooner the time. We brought it back to the pits where we had towels soaking in ice water, put them on thr 8ntak runners to cool things off and began checking everything, the car had an alternator cutoff switch, but in the pits the battery was right up where it should be. So it wants a battery issue. We checked the distributor cap and rotor, and they were fine. We swapped the fuel filter next to the carb checke the 0lug wires with an ohmmeter and everything was fine. We began to suspect the fuel pump, and we didn’t have a paste with us. The next pass it was more of the same, sweet launch, catching the car next to us by mid track, but this time it fell off much sooner. We made one more pass and it fell flat on s face by mid trac. Obviously there was something wrong and it was geting worse, so we packed up and headed back to his house, and I followed in case had to tow him home. The next da we got a new fuel pump. Mechanical, and an electric that we mounted just outside the tank. He test drove it down all empty road and it did the same thong. We brought it back h9me, took and at hose and blew out the sock filter in the gas tank. But it didn’t blow off any debris, it blew the sock off the pickup tube, completely. So we drained the gas tank and put it n his street car and what wouldn’t ft there or in his five gallon tank went into my truck. Always willing to help! The we pulled the tank out of the car and discovered that it was full of rusty, and the tank sock had gotten plugged during our race night. So we got a replacement tank mounted it a made a 1/2” steel line from the electric pump at the tank all the way up to the mechanical pump, then int9 the carb. The mechanical pump had a pressure regulator so we could adjust that slightly, and we kept it at 9lbs pressure. So now the car was getting gas when it was needed, we ran a second battery mounting both in the trunk in parallel so it would lose a charge running the electric fuel pump and electronic ignition during each pass. The next weekend out saw high 11’s. What else could you ask for. A few weeks later I had an opportunity to drive the car and it was extremely docile at lower rpms with the four speed. Very 0leasent to drive, and after we sorted out the fuel delivery problems it rams very well at the track!
I think we were running Carter pumps as we were factory direct with Carter, and when your paying cost plus 5% for inventory control and shipping, why wouldn’t you? The Holley I take was a used piece and it ran a thermoquad tuned for the motor.
I’m a big fan of Bosch K-Jetronic. That is the most reliable, analogue fuel injection system.
I also put a cheap crash switch from a Ford cop car crown vic in the trunk inline with the pump circuit. That way if you are in a crash or impact of any kind it cuts power to the pump. Just hit the red button on the switch to reset it. Can be mounted anywhere in the car. Got it for $10 at the loca yard.
For guys running the electric prime pump for their mechanical pump, wire it through a relay, ground the relay cpil from the oil pressure switch. That way when the engine is running (has oil pressure) the pump automatically stops.
Another great video ty.
Thx needed this info my 72 kingswood is always dry after some time going to buy me a helper electric one to start it up 👍
Damn don’t see anyone talking about the fuel lines he used kinda wanted to read more about them
Awesome video, Tony. Thanks. You are great to watch. I always learn something from you.
Great video as always very informative.
I love the Amway fuel squirt bottle. 👍
Thank you for your insitghts and video 🙂❤👍
Beautiful mate,have a lovely day cobba!
This was very helpful. Thank you
Great that the Road Runner is getting the spotlight on you channel! All the hot rodding and mods you do on the A-bodies and other metal is good, but the B-body Mopars RULED the streets back in the day. They were the brutes that kicked sand in everyone's faces.
Here in holland I had a Hardi electric feul pomp on a secend gen Camaro. It was a pusher but used for years like a puller :P. The only downside was the hard "tikking" from under the bonnet
I love the amount of knowledge you have. The haters may not understand, but I do perfectly. THIS is what is missing in many modern hot rodders, and they also tend to lack the ability to listen and learn. I have applied things you have talked about to much more modern cars, namely a 1993 Acura Integra with a high compression (12.26:1) B18A1 with a ported GS-R head, a 1998 Honda Prelude with a JDM H22 and my 1992 Honda Civic with its D15B7 engine. Everything you talk about, still (mostly) applies to those engines. There are a few things that had to be changed, mostly because Honda engines tend to be happiest around 13.5:1 AFR under heavy load, and like to run around 15:1 to 14:1 under light loads. I have shown some of these videos to my friend with the Integra, and he even understands better what I have done with his car.
On my 61 Chevy pick up, I bypassed the mechanical pump and put in an inexpensive electric pump. Truck doesn't even need the choke anymore. Just run the pump for a few seconds and it fires right off.
Great video, Uncle T!
super helpful. I am doing this now. Geek and Son
Electrical fuel pumps from now on? Tony, is that you? What are you smoking?
@@johnpossum556 he hasnt finished the 1st dam thing since he started... hes hittin the bong w/Cali sour diesel buds & these dreamers run behind him... pitiful...
@UCxJbFmPaqkF9lxJ8zkCMb2Q bitch you still in his comments , if you was respectable you would watch him at all. Who raised you?
I went electric out of paranoia once... My 318 67 Dart GT fuel pump had an uncommon failure. One day the car wouldnt turn over. Ok, changed starter. New one, same thing. WTH?? Tried to bar engine over, it was really difficult. Uh-oh, time to drop the pan. Pulled the plug and the stream blew the plug outta my hand. Overflowed the drain pan by a few gallons!! The pump had completely filled the crankcase with gas til it was hydrolocked!! After dropping pan, wiping everything out, and a few oil changes back to back after just cranking engine over without spark, was back in business!! That engine was absolutely spotless inside after that!! Hung an electric pump out back and blocked off the mech hole because of sheer paranoia of a Hiroshima-like future event. I was young...🤣🤣
Over here in oz my 1980 Chrysler with a 318 was running a mechanical fuel pump but once the cam,intake and 4 barrel edelbrock went on I was told the wheezy little mechanical pump supplied only 25gph! Which wouldn’t be enough,So he installed a carter gold electric fuel pump. Seems to run fine and the pump is not that noisy at all.
The fuel pump just went out in my 70 vette, 350 small block w/Holly 750. So now I have to have it flat bed to a garage to put a new one in. It kills me because back in the day I was a Chevy mechanic but I'm 65 and don't have any way to do it myself.
Wait is he actually using a fender cover! Or are my eyes playing tricks on me again?
That's one of the few cars that has paint on it. I think Tony has 13 cars and maybe 3 have a decent paint job.
@@markg7030 He daily's alot of them but I imagine even Uncle Tony has a few garage queens.
Again thank you..Guys..
Thanks for all the great info!
May I suggest a momentary switch for the helper pump as that will make sure you don't forget to switch it off.
I always wanted to go electric but heck I couldn't figure electric pumps out. I don't exactly like mechanical ones and I still can't get rid of the gas smell in my oil from almost half a year ago but it's simple and it works good enough for government work.
You can put a few one way gas valves in to keep the gas where you need it!
Awesome channel!!
Every now and then, one of my gearhead friends has fuel issues and decides to put an electric pump in... then the REAL FUN problems start, like leaky float valves or a chinesium pressure regulator allowing a gallon of fuel into the intake.
What I hate is when people take the time to install an electric pump but don't bother by-passing the mechanical one. Half the time they don't wire them up worth a crap, the wires get pinched or rub through (some people don't even bother wiring it through a fuse, just a wire from the battery, to a toggle switch, and to the pump) and the pump shorts out or they forget to shut it off and kill the battery, then they bring it to me to fix. I ask them why they didn't just replace the mechanical pump and they look at me like *I'M* the idiot.
I had a Pressure regulator... ahhh, let's call it a Shower Head.. best description.. thank Jesus Chrysler that I was only moving my car 10 feet.. the word Gas is in the name and he's called Mr.. just sayin.. be safe out there..
@@AtZero138 Just speak plain English next time.
@@AtZero138 LOL "Jesus CHRYSLER" That's hilarious!
@@AlienGrade what the fuck is your problem... you took the time.. so what is it then..
I said a Mr Gasket Fuel pressure regulator turn into a shower head, filling the concave portions of the manifold with pools of gas.. you good now..
Great video! I could’ve used this info a few months ago when I was having fuel issues. I been through a few pumps and fuel pressure regulators. I’m now using that carter 4070 pump you got. Has a built in regulator, it’s been great!
Very helpful, thank you.
On my 1972 Mercury Montgo, 351C engine, the mechanical fuel pump gets hot and quits pumping. I put a Holley Red pump on it. Bingo! Solved my problem. Installed fuel guage, the pressure never drops. Stays at 7psi. Factory fuel tank. Weiand Tunnel-Ram 2 450 cfm Holley carbs. Thanks for info.
Noticed gas in my oil in my 440, brand new Holley. Assuming it’s the mechanical pump leaking 🤔 sat for years before I got it going.
Thanks, just what I wanted to know.
You readin my mind Uncle Tony?
An A/C thumper pump will push 5 gallons of gasoline in about 8-10 seconds😀 through a single Spread bore Holley 800 DP 😀 but it has to be in the rear of the car or it will stop pumping. I had 1 on a 454 in a 57 Chevy years ago, it sucked up 5gals of feul in 4 gears in about 10 seconds. What a ride. Wish I still had it😔
I was going to use a 70 Gallon Per Hour pump, but I wasn't going to be out that long.
Get one that pumps in gallons per minute
Tony, your hemi pump can be rebuilt. Mancini carries kits, and although i have done a couple im not real thrilled with the chineez feeling kit, but it can be done. As far as electric on the street = noisy and and i would run some sort of oil pressure or tach signal switch
I just replaced the mechanical pump on my 79 suburban. It hadn't been running well for a few weeks, kept getting worse, turned out the pump was leaking internally, returning more fuel than it was getting to the carb. I plugged the return hose, which made it run a whole lot better, but it started spraying fuel out the side of the pump. I grabbed an old pump out of the shop, took about 30 minutes to install it. Hot rods are one thing, run whatever pump you want, but my stock, daily drivers will never, ever see electric pumps. I can still get gas without ethanol in it, but like Tony said, it still evaporates out of the carb if the truck sets for a week. That doesn't bother me, it just takes a few more cranks. As long as I can still get new replacement mechanical pumps, why bother spending 3x the time and labor to install an electric pump?
I HATE when you see a nice old classic and before it fires up, you hear an electric fuel pump GRRRRRRRRROOOAAANNNNNNNN . It's super obnoxious. I have a new holley 80gph mech pump and a holley 4160 carb, my car regularly sits for a week, it starts right up with one pump of the gas. I seriously don't understand what everyone is talkin about. I'm always using 93 octane, maybe it's a better blend and tony is using 87 could be worse?
@@ArdFarkable Thank you, I'm glad someone agrees. What I hate the most about electric pumps is that they're usually installed half assed, with self drilling screws right into the underbody, then plumbed right into the stock system by cutting metal lines and installing hoses so it has to pump through the old mechanical pump anyway.
I noticed even the well known named brands / built mechanical fuel pumps like Carter ect are now made in china or Mexico ect and cheaply built . I've had to keep an extra pump in the box behind the seat . but I'm think about electric fuel pump . I was told 5 psi max of fuel pressure for 1 - 2 barrel carbs and 6 psi max for 4 barrels ?
Same fuelpump problems for me man on all my ol Chevies in the last couple of years.even Delphi is made in China....sad times.
My 4bbl Edelbrock will flood at 7psi. I have a electric high flow 155gph QuickFuel pump paired with a return Aeromotive regulator (1/2in pickup and return with 3/8 from regulator to carb, more adjustable that way)
@@allanmcelroy9840 make sure when you take the top of the edlebrock off and flip it upside down check the float level . I set mine at about 1/2" - 11/32's with gasket on carburator housing lid and make sure no more then 6 psi while running at idle and when you reev it up . I also take a autobody scotch brite pad and sand the hinges of the fuel float just to polish them only then take out the fuel needle and scrub the 3 spots of the fuel needle to make sure their smooth and then clean everything with carb choke cleaner and reassemble. you can use a long drill bit same size as mentioned up top just use the end the goes into the drill
@@MoparMan-ff8fb had not considered scotchbrite material for cleaning
@@allanmcelroy9840 its just enough of a lite adbrasive to clean the brass . I also lightly scribe the floats as well . check where the float pivots on the brass rod that flat round area the pivots up against the metal tower that the brass rod slides through and make sure its not rubbing up against it and the float has the freedom of pivoting als make sure on the floats that the brass tab on the back of the floats are adjusted rich so the float doesnt touch the bottom of the fuel bowl
Excellant information
I went electric too, I felt a little ...fancy...
But it works really well. I'd run the mechanical but the China repros they sell for stovebolts are no good
Yeah... I've forgiven you for lots of things, let just get that out of the way... so I just added to the List.. 😆..
Oi oi oi Brother.. love ya
That beat beat Roadrunner you got should be running in the 12s 11 so that roller cam
Was a shocker when a buddy put a gauge on his gto and went for a rip.
Higher gears the more the pressure dropped.
He added an electric in the setup and it felt like it added 30hp.
(Not a gain really I know , just getting back what's lost due to issues)
Mechanical fuel pump for the win. I dont have an issue changing the pump on occasion. The Chevy OBS truck in tank pumps give up the ghost constantly and you have to take the bed off each time and its a huge pain. A lot easier to lean over the fender and change one.
I can’t find any Teflon core braided hose at the plumbing supply stores - it’s all pvc on the inside. The only place i can find Teflon core is from places like summit. It’s not cheap either.
Tony do a video on the dual quad intakes you use. I see OEM iron 383 and Offenhauser in your garage. Many people have forgotten about Offy as Edelbrock became the biggest player.
Had a duel 4 barrel spread bore offy for a b engine for a long time. Guy offered me a bunch of money for it. Still regret selling it
@@Welcometofacsistube offenhauser still makes the daul 4 spread-bore intake for the 383/400, it's the offenhauser 5750. Summit racing has them on their website.
great video - miss these types
Ut on my older diesel i made a fuel heater i wrapped it around my upper rad hose then back into injection pump i truly feel it run smooter than b4..my 2 cents again..
yup even OEM Diesel engines like some heat in the fuel!
I bought a Carter electric pump a few years ago. I don't remember which part number it was, but it didn't work well at all. I tried remounting several times as close and level to tank as possible, still didn't work... Sent my hard to find mechanical pump off to be rebuilt, and it's been fine ever since... I can't wait to see how it works for you, please keep us updated... Really like your channel, keep up the great work/videos!!!!!
One downside to electric pumps is that some of them are very noisey.
Why do I not have those same percolation issues with that same exact mechanical pump on my daily 71 Dart? (360LA)
As long as I'm using the oem vapor return line, that is.
In one of my 440’s! I haven’t touched in 4-5 years I gave it a refresh,maniacal pump. No matter what I did it kept running out out gas????? My god I lost sleep over this..long story short.. the fuel pump push pin was worn down and wasn’t depressing the fuel pump arm in far enough! That’s a first time for me! Just saying.
ive got a Carter pump on my 77 k10..... which MIGHT have been a factory // dealer installed thing....as its got a skid plate
it makes quite a bit of noise..... but ya cant kill the damn thing
.
and ya always know if your pump is on....because of said noise.... which i see as a plus
and when we rebuild my dads 440 (rod knock...BIG sad face ).....its gonna get a carter pump
.
they just work.... dont have to worry about anything (oil dilution, oil leaks, fuel leaks etc)
A properly functioning mechanical fuel pump should not be malfunctioning or encountering any percolation issues. They will work perfectly fine on a 300-500 hp engine assuming all is well with your fuel system (i.e. no restrictions on the suction side, etc)
Maybe you can talk about the wiring of a new fuel pump. Do you use a switch,relay,oil pressure cutoff. I just want to avoid the no no's..
Run it through a relay as all motor driven devices pull more amps. Also consider using an inertia switch, you can get one cheap from a Ford Focus.
The push pump in my V8 Vega's fuel tank quit, so rather than dropping the tank to replace the dead one, I removed the dummy plate on the SBC block and installed an old 283 fuel pump there. It pulled right past the non-functional pusher pump in the tank. That shameful setup became a speed limiter if you tried to exceed 120 mph (which was unwise in that deathtrap anyway).
Great advice vid. Thanks!
Cheers :-)
Hi there!,1958 AMC Rambler Super (pt.21) here, watched this video and learned a thing or two, but I'll have to search for videos of people who go into details about how a mechanical fuel pump can be rebuilt (if it needs to be) my 195.6 ohv six cylinder engine that's being rebuilt uses one of those really old mechanical fuel pumps and I don't know if it works, I've got my fingers crossed!
UT, as usual excellent, but I think I have seen some old GM mech fuel pumps with a tell tale hole, that if a diaphragm breaks, it will leak gasoline onto the ground, and not into the crankcase? Been a while.
You should consider running the pump with a relay and triggering it through a oil pressure switch, I know the wiring could get complicated but when you are upside-down in a ditch you don't need to be pumping gas on the wreck, just saying.
Best advice I could find so far
When you put a helper pump at the back, can the mechanical pump pull the gas through it with no damage to the electric pump?
Yes and the electric pump will push gas thru the stock pump without damage.
B body gas tanks the fuel pickup is at front of tank and doesn't have far to draw but there is an important screen on it and most are 5/16. The clips in frame are for 5/16 steel line as well ( rocker counts as frame). Hemi cars had 3/8 line which is a bitch to bend.
Usually the problem on big block engines is not the pump but pump rod because it was assembled without lube and it burns the shaft. That hex plug beneath fuel pump opening is for rod. Check against a good or new one if it is visibly short that is reason for fuel starvation. Happens a lot.
Don't hook fuel pump into either side of ballast resistor one side is cut off during startup and your pump won't work.
Steel line from pump or fuel line goes behind alternator under the distributor and two carbs. Should not be a flexible line at all on engine itself.
Btw most carb fittings have a 1/4 orifice on carb. The one that screws in with fine thread and a gasket. If you want to run more fuel through it needs to be changed and most stock carter inlet float jets don't have extra opening on side for extra fuel.
@UncleTony'sGarage , why don't you get like a delphi pump for an lsi based engine and pull the sending unit and just put the pump right onto the outlet fuel line and push thru that and then you can mount the regulator underneath by the tank for that hidden stock appearance. Ive learned that Delphi pumps running straight and not off pulse width modulation work great on street motors
Also they will suck gas also the have a v8 swap replacement electric fuel pump for the old bronco 2s that used a pump on the fram rails and those are also puller pumps
I have that carter pump.
It’s a good one and lasts for years.
Fuel filter before or after the electric pump?
I love my Holley Blue with my 406 SBC.
Would you be able to show how to check fuel pressure using a Vacuum Gauge on an upcoming video and if a fuel pressure regulator is needed? This would be in regards to a 65 Olds 442 with a 400 cui stock engine. Thanks
I use a fuel pump relay to energize my pump. It's a dedicated circuit for the fuel pump only. I have a bump switch for safety, and a manual kill switch next to the ignition key. Don't play games without a way to shut down the pump. I don't use mechanical pumps.
It's also a good idea to ground the fuel pump relay through an oil pressure switch.
@@excavatoree That's done also.
@uncletonysgarage Can you use the 3 way fuel filter at the top of the engine with a holley blue line electric pump? My 85 c10 has the electric pump and also has vapor lock issues when restarting the engine when it is hot. Thanks
Maybe a push button for priming is better than an actual off on switch ?
Interesting
I'll stick with my old mechanical pump. It's cheap and I've never had a problem with it.
I agree to a point. I own a 1972 charger with a 318. Fuel pump went, flooded the crankcase with gas in oil and ruined the motor. It runs of the cam and is directly in the block. If the diaphragm goes bye bye oil
I run a $40 electric pump on my 59. The engine starts like a modern EFI car. Hot or cold. My 79 C30 just has a mechanical pump, have to crank that for 10 or more seconds to get fuel up to the carb. Worse when I want to restart a hot engine. Ethanol gas boils out of the carb quickly.
@@taylorsutherland6973 I bought mine for $17 three years ago, and has no issues. Out side of being cold natured. I run a QJ.
Ut you could put the fuel tank above the carburetor you know on the roof ..have it gravity feed ..there you go. Lol..it can flood the engine.
I just spend the 25 bucks for a delphi mechanical fuel pump. It costs less than a tank of gas. Part stores generally carry them too so you can fix it right in their parking lot.
Saw a youtube video I should have watched efore starting an old truck sitting for years. The fuel pump diaphragm rotts then you try and start it. It dumps gas into oil.