I'm so glad you took the time to make a in-depth how to video because my oil pump was defective my relief valve is stuck on my first build. Blessings and more Blessings to you and your Family 🤗👌
Having oil pressure issue. All plugs in block even hidden plug. bearing 2.5 to 3 thou. clock cam bearings/ Hei msd /stock pan with Melling hv pump.1/2`` off pan/20/50 oil wix filter only 30 psi when cold and 10 when hot. Does not increase much when at 2500prm. verified test gauges as well. Bad pump? Fresh rebuild 355. also new bypass for oil filter.
I have swapped new rotors from one oil pump to the other to achieve tighter clearances on the sides as well as the gear mesh. I port the inlet at the turn to smooth the transfer of oil into the pump. i also like to remove any burrs in the outlet with a ball shaped die grinder tool. I also recommend drilling the driven rotor top and bottom as the video shows. All this is done to improve idle oil pressure. The maximum oil pressure is controlled by the by pass spring. melling sells a kit that contains 6 different springs. i like to see 35 idling and 55 hot out on the road using 10-30 oil so i normally install a 60 lb spring. Great video.
Thanks this helps. I'm going to replace my bone stock 1998 4.3Ls oil pump, going with a high volume pump. I was a bit unsure about the bypass spring selection. Thanks again
When I built my last sac and bbc beside chamfering and radiusing all casting edges, I polished the interior cavities for zero restriction. Before reassembly I packed the entire pump cavity with moly grease so the second the pump gears turned it pulled oil into and through the pump. I also radiused the edges of the pump gears with #600 Emory paper. Not a sharp edge anywhere.
Here is what he failed to explane, you only have 4 quarts of oil in a factory oil pan. With a hi volume standard pressure pump you can suck all the oil out of the pan before the oil gets a change to return to the pan causing a motor killing air pocket ! In my opinion. For most applications with a factory 4qt. oil pan you would like to have 45 to 60 psi witch would be a hi pressure pump, with standard volume so you would get the extra oil protection of the hi pressure but your not going to suck the pan dry before the oil returns to the pan.
@@Dougarrowhead, I have a Chevy that I use for towing. No racing or spirited driving, just towing. Trailer weight can vary from 3k to 16k, and distances are usually between 100 miles to 800 miles at a time. My oil pan holds 8 quarts with max RPM of 3,000 and cruise at about 2,200 RPM. I'm building an engine to swap later this year. Think I'd be okay with a hi-volume + hi-pressure oil pump?
@@vivillager i put high volume high output oil pumps on small blocks with 5 or 7 quart pans. they still have a lot of oil pressure. they are fine for racing or normal driving. i have never had a high pressure oil pump even for high performance. i think you will be fine.
@@vivillager i had a high volume high output in a 383 stroker and it had 80 psi cold and a steady 60 psi when hot. now im going back with same thing on new build. that is what the engine builder recommended.
I know this is two years ago but do you think deep sump 7 qt pan would be ok for the HV/standard pressure pump? The motors pushing a little over 4 pony’s
You don't need to do all that burn are you stock oil pumps my hot rods all the time I don't modify them like that it always have good oil pressure and taking a pot make sure it ain't no savings and machining and put it back together no engine problems
I'm so glad you took the time to make a in-depth how to video because my oil pump was defective my relief valve is stuck on my first build.
Blessings and more Blessings to you and your Family 🤗👌
Having oil pressure issue. All plugs in block even hidden plug. bearing 2.5 to 3 thou. clock cam bearings/ Hei msd /stock pan with Melling hv pump.1/2`` off pan/20/50 oil wix filter only 30 psi when cold and 10 when hot. Does not increase much when at 2500prm. verified test gauges as well. Bad pump? Fresh rebuild 355. also new bypass for oil filter.
I have swapped new rotors from one oil pump to the other to achieve tighter clearances on the sides as well as the gear mesh. I port the inlet at the turn to smooth the transfer of oil into the pump. i also like to remove any burrs in the outlet with a ball shaped die grinder tool. I also recommend drilling the driven rotor top and bottom as the video shows. All this is done to improve idle oil pressure. The maximum oil pressure is controlled by the by pass spring. melling sells a kit that contains 6 different springs. i like to see 35 idling and 55 hot out on the road using 10-30 oil so i normally install a 60 lb spring. Great video.
Thanks this helps. I'm going to replace my bone stock 1998 4.3Ls oil pump, going with a high volume pump. I was a bit unsure about the bypass spring selection. Thanks again
When I built my last sac and bbc beside chamfering and radiusing all casting edges, I polished the interior cavities for zero restriction. Before reassembly I packed the entire pump cavity with moly grease so the second the pump gears turned it pulled oil into and through the pump. I also radiused the edges of the pump gears with #600 Emory paper. Not a sharp edge anywhere.
Took your advice and checked my new Mellings pump,found the pressure valve was inside the casting defective. It wouldn't even protrude out the hole.
that isn't a bad idea on drilling feed holes for the rotor.
Here is what he failed to explane, you only have 4 quarts of oil in a
factory oil pan. With a hi volume standard pressure pump you can suck
all the oil out of the pan before the oil gets a change to return to the
pan causing a motor killing air pocket ! In my opinion. For most
applications with a factory 4qt. oil pan you would like to have 45 to 60
psi witch would be a hi pressure pump, with standard volume so you
would get the extra oil protection of the hi pressure but your not going
to suck the pan dry before the oil returns to the pan.
This is a 350 it has a 5 quart oil pan not a 4 quart.
@@Dougarrowhead, I have a Chevy that I use for towing. No racing or spirited driving, just towing. Trailer weight can vary from 3k to 16k, and distances are usually between 100 miles to 800 miles at a time. My oil pan holds 8 quarts with max RPM of 3,000 and cruise at about 2,200 RPM. I'm building an engine to swap later this year. Think I'd be okay with a hi-volume + hi-pressure oil pump?
@@vivillager i put high volume high output oil pumps on small blocks with 5 or 7 quart pans. they still have a lot of oil pressure. they are fine for racing or normal driving. i have never had a high pressure oil pump even for high performance. i think you will be fine.
@@vivillager i had a high volume high output in a 383 stroker and it had 80 psi cold and a steady 60 psi when hot. now im going back with same thing on new build. that is what the engine builder recommended.
I know this is two years ago but do you think deep sump 7 qt pan would be ok for the HV/standard pressure pump? The motors pushing a little over 4 pony’s
So how long do you think these pumps been working without the mods?
Detail work is the difference between an assembler and a builder.
How long do you want your race engine to last?
Here to quick look up the gear to cover spec for my vid, still a good watch!
What does he use the chamfer the bolt holes?
You don't need to do all that burn are you stock oil pumps my hot rods all the time I don't modify them like that it always have good oil pressure and taking a pot make sure it ain't no savings and machining and put it back together no engine problems
where are you?
Make m live !! Good work.
Just use a normal BBC pump....