It totally baffles me how you are able to make videos that are so simple about common things like oil pumps that nobody else talks or writes about. Easily my most valued subscription.
In my case, the stuck bypass valve in the oil pump, caused massive spike in oil pressure, so it searched for the next weak link - namely the oil filter gasket. At first I tought it was a faulty oil filter, but after third one, I figured that something is wrong. After I took the pump apart, the clearences were spot on, just the valve would not budge.
In one of my builds I had installed 4 high vol/pressure pumps. In each case I had good pressure for about 2 minutes then pressure fell off. At that point I was thinking I had internal engine issues. Pulled the engine built another and inspected the old engine to find no issues. Turns out stuck bypass now I just assume the pump has to be serviced before installing.
I’ve looked and always wondered how an oil pump works and what makes one high volume. Thank you for the information. Most deff appreciate you taking the time to put out good information.
A High volume oil pump puts out more volume than a standard oil pump. For example a small block Chevy HV pump will pump about 25% more oil than a standard Volume. If the engine can't take the excess volume it just bleeds off the excess in a bypass. Also take a bit more HP to turn them, as the gears are taller which is how they pump more volume.
You should see how a dual stage pump works. Most engines made in the last 5 years can change volume and pressure when commanded to by the PCM. 7-10 psi at idle and 70-100 at redline. Great for fuel economy as a fluid pump creates alot of parasitic drag on an engine. Which is why pretty much all new cars use electric steering racks and variable oil pumps.
There are some early (60s Buicks for one) engines that do require the oil pump to be packed to avoid a dry start after a rebuild. They will hold prime after that though.
same with AMC v8's. Those are external pumps, and they are not gerotor (sp?) pumps. I know from experience that AMC pumps are just 2 gears. I was told to use vaseline in them
Wierd that I’m making an oil pump for my model engine and this pops up. I’m glad that I watched this because I never thought about a much-needed bypass. Thanks Tony you are the man.
I feel obligated to make a comment about this for the Oldsmobile guys. If you are building the latr Olds big blocks, 425/455, please keep in mind they were designed to run at what is considered a low RPM now days. People will say Olds have oiling issues. What actually happens in the drainback is too slow. Many times, people will do tings to allow these engines to spin faster. The average engine builder will also recommend a higher volume pump, which they do for everything really. Unfortunately, with the way the Olds oil passages are, it is possible the combination of a higher RPM and a higher volume pump will pump the pan empty and the oil will all be up in the valvetrain trying to make it's way back to the pan. This isn;t super common, but I have heard about this happening to people, where their barnd new rebuilt HiPo 455 had an oiling issue and had a break down. When they look into it, they can;t find anything wrong with the pan, pick up, or oil pump. I am pretty sure Dr. Olds himself has some videos on youtube about it, he devised some modifications to help with the oiling design of the Olds BB. Long story short: Olds guys, do your homework before deciding on a combo for your BB! Sometimes the high volume pump is worse!
As one of the newbies, I LOVE this type of video. Good to see you throwing one in now and then like you did in your early days. Oh, and bring back the stunt carb!!!
Forty plus years and he is Right on in all the engines I have worked on at the dealership and at home, Great gob! some one had to do it just keep it up Thank You!!
Great video with an excellent instructor. Been in the aviation maintenance business for years, so i well know to have an effective session of instruction you have to have a guy like this. The problem today is these kids don't understand the systems. Please do more videos like this as i too am learning.
On the Pentastar engine a chain-driven, vane-type variable displacement oil pump adjusts the flow rate and pressure as commanded by the engine management system, which uses a solenoid to drive the pump into low or high pressure mode. For example, below 3,500 rpm, the pump conserves energy by using low pressure; at speeds over 3,500 rpm, the pump switches to high pressure. A force balance mechanism inside the oil pump adjusts the size of the pumping chambers to alter oil flow.
Everybody needs to watch this video! thank you for clearing up the confusion between the standard volume, high volume, and high pressure pumps! there's an age old confusion associated with em. Great video as always!
I like to put a bit of Lucas in the pump when building the engine, a bit of Lucas and oil, Chevy pumps, with steel pinned drive shaft, the Lucas being so sticky it primes very easily, I always use a new oil pump, and pickup, and when I have the pan off a older engine, I go with a new pump and pick-up! Like you say it's dirty oil and can wear, the 94, 454 I bought. I had checked. The bearings, and new pump, and timing chain, come to learn, it only had about 50k miles on it, but toting a motorhome is no easy life! It sounds great with air gap rpm intake and long tube headers! But it's a truck cam, and probably done by 4k rpm, great video
Very informative video on simple yet so important basics! I'll be removing the oil pump on my Ford V6 and now know exactly what to expect and inspect! Thank you!
One of the most misunderstood things about any pump is that they create pressure. They do not. Pumps create flow. Pressure is a measurement of resistance to that flow.that why the spring changes the pressure, and the larger pump volume changes the flow.
A stiffer relief valve spring will only increase the maximum pressure. It won't increase your oil pressure at, for example, hot idle if you are only getting 10 PSI and the relief valve doesn't even open until 60+ PSI. To increase oil pressure at below the pressure the relief valve is set for, you either need to increase the restriction with tighter clearances, thicker oil, less leakage, etc or you need more flow from the pump.
I had an oil pump seize up in a ford 400 v8 once. Old, maybe original, timing gears had vinyl coated teeth. The vinyl started falling off, and the oil pump managed to suck up a small piece of it. Squished the vinyl flat before seizing up. The 3/8" allen/hex driveshaft twisted around partially, but didn't break. The teeth on the camshaft & distributor gears got chewed up in the process, also shearing the pin holding the distributor gear in place on its shaft. I was already planning an engine swap, and didn't want to invest a bunch of money into fixing the 400 properly. So I cleaned up the oil pump, swapped in a spare distributor gear, new timing gears & chain, set the timing, cleaned the oil pan and changed the oil & filter, and hoped for the best. It's been running fine ever since! Better actually, without the timing slop. It's still gonna come out though.
An exception to packing the pump with grease is with the aviation engines with their huge clearances, low compression, low RPM operating range. One additional thing you can do when blueprinting an oil pump is reducing the clearance between the pump cover and the gears: target of around 0.002 inches of clearance. A flat surface, a piece of fine sand paper and figure 8 motion until the desired clearance is achieved. Keep ‘em coming Tony!
Great videos, really like the technical ones, but getting back to the basics are helpful, in remembering stuff and even learning a different way. Keep them coming.
You forgot to mention why you should and shouldn't run a hi volume pump in certain applications. For an example I build a lot of LS turbo motors and if you just bolt a hi volume hi pressure pump on a motor in think you can rev 7,000 rpms for long periods of time it will run the pan dry. Hi volume high pressure pumps in my opinion are for added bearing clearance because you're creating a bigger leak. Most engine builders I know like 2.5-3 in something that's going live at 1,200 horsepower+ on race track but if you're going to Street drive it around mite not want to go that much maybe like 2. My one engine builder builds big block Chevy 1,200hp blower car stuff and runs 1.5 on mains and 2 on the rods with a good h bearing's. Some how he has good luck with that Seems a little tight to me but he's been building for 45 years.
The oil film takes up 002 thousands so you gotta loosen em up to get oil around the rod and main journals the first Crank I ever had balanced was on a small journal Corvette 327 and the engine builder called me and said hey it's going to be another 50 bucks I gotta polish the hell out of this crank you don't have enough room for oil when I got it back home it looked like chrome and 8000 thousand RPM was 200 below redline stock melling oil pump Corvette pan and factory windage tray Old school a I loved those little engines but eventually they had to be retired for bigger cubic inches or stay on the porch 👍👍
Before I put a new oil pump in my Comanche 4.0 I put a little bit of oil in the pressure side; backed the shaft off a little, put more in and bolted it up to the block. (Damn, those pickup tubes are a bitch to R&R!) Been working fine ever since. AMOF at roughly 215,000 miles it has better oil pressure, than the 208,000+mile 4.0 in my Grand Cherokee! It's gettin' a new one before long, too :-).
Good info Unk. I had a bypass valve stuck shut on a hi volume pump. On a cold start the oil preasure was 80 at idle and if you started to drive right away there would be a permanent bulge in the oil filter
Actually the Rover V8 was known as an engine that needed the pump packed or it doomsday, it would never prime. Even an oil change, swap the filter first then drop the oil. The problem could even occur if the vehicle had been sitting a longtime. I had in the past used a pressure sprayer hooked up to oil pressure fitting to prime them. Sure someone will mention other Buicks that were similar. Incidentally never seen issues with the Vasaline, but like I mentioned, you can use a pressure sprayer.
These simple tech videos are fantastic for the newbie building their first motor in the back shed component by component. I would love to see a complete playlist of each component breakdown and explanation working towards a complete build.
Great video! I have a 2000 Jeep Cherokee, 282000+ miles. Well, it was that time to replace the rear oil seal, might as well replace the oil pump too. It's a Melling high volume pump. Talk about a night and day difference on the pressure.
I built my first car engine when I was 12-13, years old, that was such longer ago than I want to think, before that it was a couple. Small engines, and a good bit of tinkering, with alot of stuff, it was a few years before OBD-2 , I used to use a high volume pump, but figured, unless you have looser than stock clearances, higher volume is just eating more power!
holy cow, I actually never knew all this about oil pumps. I never had to change one out before. Man this was so informative. THANK YOU. I love learning. Trying to prepare for someday building me a vehicle.
Forgot to revisit the filter relationship, and mention that a long pull on a 5qt pan with a high volume pump can suck a pan dry, but good accurate info.
I had one pump that wouldn’t prime. I took off the oil filter and used a shop Vac to suck some oil through the pump which then allow the pump to prime.
The noise in the back is not a problem, your first 5 or All the videos have more noise & dogos eating your food 😂,am joke, you have amazing videos with a lot of knowledge, am like it ,am still looking your videos since you started, 10 years ago they are all good’s even with noises thanks for what you teaching
YOu did good on this one, shiming the springs, good stuff. One thing you didn't touch on is the gears are pressed on slant six, a peice of grit/metal get in there it will spin the rotor off the shaft. I have welded the gear on the shaft. it wasn't bad, you just have to plane the weld down so it works against the plate. Its a close tolerance, and you can lose pressure so be sure to use care machining it down after you welld it
Yeah the oil pump shaft on a SBF is the Achilles heel of it in my opinion... I put an aftermarket shaft in them even if it is a stock type build! Good video..
Hi Uncle Tony. Good job. I learned a lot. The next oil system video vould be about the downstream component, the oil filter. Check valve diaphram, silicone or rubber. What engines have bypass valves in the filter or not. Filter media and pleat count, etc. Good quality filters vs. Cheap ones, etc. Thanks.
This is perfectly timed video. I've been thinking about what to do with the oiling system on my 455 Olds. They have over oiling issues from what I have read and understand.
GREAT video! I woct 2 about the 440 oil pump befor this and they were useless. (including vasaline) Now I finally know I need a hi volume pump on my old 440 due to low presssure after it warmz up.
Uncle Tony, you are correct on each point, right on brother. It is a missed opportunity to add oil accumulators. There is a huge discussion going on about the but it all comes down to how the vehicle is driven. Plus the new wrinkle is the "Stop / Start" technology being employed. I truly come that era where we rebuilt everything and I can't stand the idea that someone is going to have the same starter life, flex plate life or bearing wear as they did without these systems as a 4 cylinder is going to stop at the same location (Plus / Minus 3 teeth) and take it from there! DK, Omaha. ASE Master Tech, retired.
On a 63 Mercury comet I had an oil pump jam up and twist off the distributor to oil pump shaft, because of 1 "little" piece of carbon that got sucked into the oil pump gears. about 1/16" piece about the size of a grain of sand ! Great tutorial, Thanks
Thank you very much UT for explaining this. I learned more in 14 minutes about oil pumps than I have in 20 years because everyone I've talked to has had a different opinion or theory, and especially for HV and HP pumps. This got me thinking. Say you buy a classic car or truck with 100K miles and it runs good but doesn't look like the engine was taken care of. Instead of just doing a tune up and changing fluids pull and inspect the pump for signs of grit or abrasion. Even though a worn pump could still make pressure it might not be making what it should. I've known guys who say 10 PSI at idle is okay because the engine is worn when in fact it could be a good engine with a a worn pump. Replace the pump and you restore proper lubrication and maybe extend the life of that motor.
By the way, I love your videos!♡!♡! Thank you for sharing your knowledge and experiences. There are a lot of people who don't know the difference between a head gasket and an ass gasket. You are not one of those people. I only have a fraction of the knowledge you have, and take all of your video info and translate it into air-cooled VW engine, because that is all I really know but love to learn more. So thank you again
Melling is the only brand of oil pump i use in engine rebuilds and never had an issue.I do mostly fords and the drive shafts are so flimsy,always replace them with a Melling or ARP shaft even if its a stock rebuild.If any of you reading this have Fords the shaft will twist off with the engine still running with no oil pressure (If the pump locks up) If you use a hardened shaft it will shear off the pin in the distributor and the engine will shut off saving it.
The Ford's have a shaft like a 5/16 Allen wrench if I remember right the last one I built was in a old square bronco 302 2barrel bore job new Pistons cam lifters and valve job went back stock they run that thing in the mud till the sides fell off the body 👍
Had this exact thing happen to me with my 92 mustang. oil pump was binding, not totally seized. It still spun the gear on the distributor shaft. Somehow it didn't spin it totally off. Not knowing what had happened I managed to limp the car home a mile with timing retarded 40 degrees ATDC. The engine is now out of the car for a refresh.
@@wickedlou9 That's amazing it ran in that state,the OE 5.0 engines use an aluminum oil pump housing while the Melling replacement is cast iron and beefy.Part number M-68 is a standard volume pump for any small block ford. ARP 154-7904 is the drive shaft.
Wanna have some fun Tony, Fill a 5 gallon aquarium with water, hook a drill to the shaft. Stick an unlubricated pump in the water and turn on the drill. It will suck up water even dry (head pressure) and send it out the port. . You can show the difference of the high volume pump at the same RPM too
Cool and interesting video! I really like watching your channel because I always learn something. On worn pumps or for high performance applications, there is a company called Line to Line Coatings that have an abradable powder coat they use mainly for piston skirts, but they also do anything that rotates and has clearances like oil pumps. Pretty cool stuff!
Tony, I did a good amount of LS style engines in the GMC Savana vans, ( we gotta fleet of about 2-300 of em, I had those a few times never make pressure, almost like it was vapor lock. I reverse filled the oil through the switch, tried a few other tricks but i find a lil bit of gear oil helped me.
Most mechanics I know of prime the oil pump before they put the distributor in to make sure the engine is lubed before startup. It also lets you know what the pressure is.
yup, I've had my knuckles smashed against the firewall more than once priming an engine. You have to be ready for when the pump starts building pressure or it can twist a powerful drill out of your hands
Good video. Uncle T touched on something from my HD mechanic school days... very simply, pre-lube every component with the same fluid it will be exposed to while operating normally. In addition, always follow the installation instructions provided with the component. It's that easy.
"instructions! i don't need no stinking instructions". much work, head scratching and possibly a few thrown tools later, "now, where are them stinking instruction. hope i didn't throw them away.". anecdote from my personal experience.
Ahahahahah, yeah Tony, I can tell you, some 30 yrs ago, I had my friend, my Mechanic in Mexico. I brought to him all of the parts to "rebuild" my 1953 Chevy, 216 cu in inline 6 cyl parts, but I didn't buy an OIL PUMP. My mechanic tells me, hey Marcelo you didn't bring me an oil pump? I told him, "oh , it doesn't need it, the oil presure was FINE". He told me,........... "look, if I'm going to be going into this engine so deeply, you need to bring me a NEW OIL PUMP, doesn't matter if you say it didn't need it, I'm going to put in a NEW oil pump. Otherwise, all of the other parts are going to be NEW and the oil pump will be old, and it's the WEAK LINK, and it'll break , right away! You go get me/bring to me a NEW OIL PUMP! I said , yes sir. I learned something very valuable, right there~!
It totally baffles me how you are able to make videos that are so simple about common things like oil pumps that nobody else talks or writes about. Easily my most valued subscription.
I always use Deep Purple when I clean my oil pump pickup. Highway Star, Smoke on the Water, Space Truckin', as loud as possible.
In my case, the stuck bypass valve in the oil pump, caused massive spike in oil pressure, so it searched for the next weak link - namely the oil filter gasket. At first I tought it was a faulty oil filter, but after third one, I figured that something is wrong. After I took the pump apart, the clearences were spot on, just the valve would not budge.
In one of my builds I had installed 4 high vol/pressure pumps. In each case I had good pressure for about 2 minutes then pressure fell off. At that point I was thinking I had internal engine issues. Pulled the engine built another and inspected the old engine to find no issues. Turns out stuck bypass now I just assume the pump has to be serviced before installing.
This particular circumstance is specifically mentioned in oil filter catalogs (CarQuest at least)
Did your filter blow like a beer can?
@@alanmeyers3957 Nah, it wasn't that bad, but the oil was everywhere in the engine bay. Not to mention the pavement around my car.
I soaked in Deep Purple for a few hours when I was a kid. I was never the same again
I’ve looked and always wondered how an oil pump works and what makes one high volume. Thank you for the information. Most deff appreciate you taking the time to put out good information.
A High volume oil pump puts out more volume than a standard oil pump. For example a small block Chevy HV pump will pump about 25% more oil than a standard Volume. If the engine can't take the excess volume it just bleeds off the excess in a bypass. Also take a bit more HP to turn them, as the gears are taller which is how they pump more volume.
Ok I miss read your post "I always wondered what..." Thought you asked what made one HV.
You should see how a dual stage pump works. Most engines made in the last 5 years can change volume and pressure when commanded to by the PCM. 7-10 psi at idle and 70-100 at redline. Great for fuel economy as a fluid pump creates alot of parasitic drag on an engine. Which is why pretty much all new cars use electric steering racks and variable oil pumps.
So did I
Volume is longer gears, pressure is stronger spring
YES!!!!
I for one prefer these basic tech vids over the stuff like economy or trivia.
More please!
Yep! and Let the JunkYard Jet Guy's Do their own thing. If Your not building it, we don't care.
There are some early (60s Buicks for one) engines that do require the oil pump to be packed to avoid a dry start after a rebuild. They will hold prime after that though.
70's 350 Buick engines need the oil pump primed when new gears have been installed brand new too.
Perhaps dose them with, say, a teaspoon of straight 50 (or higher weight) oil?
same with AMC v8's. Those are external pumps, and they are not gerotor (sp?) pumps. I know from experience that AMC pumps are just 2 gears. I was told to use vaseline in them
@@bigassfordsd Ya, I think that's what the Buicks are, Oldsmobile too. Gear pumps not 'gerotor'.
Yup... been there... had a used pump (on that Buick V-8) would not re-prime with oil! Had to be primed with petroleum jelly. Lesson learned.
You’re always such a great teacher every time I watch your video. I never have any questions. Good job.
Wierd that I’m making an oil pump for my model engine and this pops up.
I’m glad that I watched this because I never thought about a much-needed bypass.
Thanks Tony you are the man.
I feel obligated to make a comment about this for the Oldsmobile guys.
If you are building the latr Olds big blocks, 425/455, please keep in mind they were designed to run at what is considered a low RPM now days. People will say Olds have oiling issues. What actually happens in the drainback is too slow.
Many times, people will do tings to allow these engines to spin faster. The average engine builder will also recommend a higher volume pump, which they do for everything really. Unfortunately, with the way the Olds oil passages are, it is possible the combination of a higher RPM and a higher volume pump will pump the pan empty and the oil will all be up in the valvetrain trying to make it's way back to the pan.
This isn;t super common, but I have heard about this happening to people, where their barnd new rebuilt HiPo 455 had an oiling issue and had a break down. When they look into it, they can;t find anything wrong with the pan, pick up, or oil pump.
I am pretty sure Dr. Olds himself has some videos on youtube about it, he devised some modifications to help with the oiling design of the Olds BB.
Long story short: Olds guys, do your homework before deciding on a combo for your BB! Sometimes the high volume pump is worse!
You were right, UT. It was the bypass getting stuck. Took it out, cleaned it and stuck it back in. Spun it, made like 22-24 PSI on the drill.
As one of the newbies, I LOVE this type of video. Good to see you throwing one in now and then like you did in your early days. Oh, and bring back the stunt carb!!!
As a younger guy that didn’t get the opportunity to grow up around these old school vehicles these videos are honestly really very helpful
Deep Purple, I used to have their greatest hits on cassette.
Great info on oil pumps.
Forty plus years and he is Right on in all the engines I have worked on at the dealership and at home, Great gob! some one had to do it just keep it up Thank You!!
Great video with an excellent instructor. Been in the aviation maintenance business for years, so i well know to have an effective session of instruction you have to have a guy like this. The problem today is these kids don't understand the systems. Please do more videos like this as i too am learning.
One of the most informative videos I've ever watched.
On the Pentastar engine a chain-driven, vane-type variable displacement oil pump adjusts the flow rate and pressure as commanded by the engine management system, which uses a solenoid to drive the pump into low or high pressure mode. For example, below 3,500 rpm, the pump conserves energy by using low pressure; at speeds over 3,500 rpm, the pump switches to high pressure.
A force balance mechanism inside the oil pump adjusts the size of the pumping chambers to alter oil flow.
Everybody needs to watch this video! thank you for clearing up the confusion between the standard volume, high volume, and high pressure pumps! there's an age old confusion associated with em. Great video as always!
"Deep purple" cleaner. You old 70's hippy! Great video
deep Purple! Tony, that is a band from the early 70's. you crack me up. they had some great hits
Gasket! So key to keep in mind! 👍👍 Thank you, Uncle T 🙂
Thanks Tony. You are possibly the only and definitely the first I've seen to explain auto oil pumps. Now I know!
These are the kind of vids that made me a UTG fan.
Well done Professor Uncle Tony.
Love the info uncle Tony. I watch all the time, like a lot of videos, but I dont comment often. I appreciate everything you share with us.
I like to put a bit of Lucas in the pump when building the engine, a bit of Lucas and oil, Chevy pumps, with steel pinned drive shaft, the Lucas being so sticky it primes very easily, I always use a new oil pump, and pickup, and when I have the pan off a older engine, I go with a new pump and pick-up! Like you say it's dirty oil and can wear, the 94, 454 I bought. I had checked. The bearings, and new pump, and timing chain, come to learn, it only had about 50k miles on it, but toting a motorhome is no easy life! It sounds great with air gap rpm intake and long tube headers! But it's a truck cam, and probably done by 4k rpm, great video
These type of videos are my absolute favorite... solid information that helps us all out so much, thanks!!
Very informative video on simple yet so important basics! I'll be removing the oil pump on my Ford V6 and now know exactly what to expect and inspect! Thank you!
Thank you uncle tony, for passing along all this knowledge!
One of the most misunderstood things about any pump is that they create pressure. They do not. Pumps create flow. Pressure is a measurement of resistance to that flow.that why the spring changes the pressure, and the larger pump volume changes the flow.
A stiffer relief valve spring will only increase the maximum pressure. It won't increase your oil pressure at, for example, hot idle if you are only getting 10 PSI and the relief valve doesn't even open until 60+ PSI.
To increase oil pressure at below the pressure the relief valve is set for, you either need to increase the restriction with tighter clearances, thicker oil, less leakage, etc or you need more flow from the pump.
I had an oil pump seize up in a ford 400 v8 once. Old, maybe original, timing gears had vinyl coated teeth. The vinyl started falling off, and the oil pump managed to suck up a small piece of it. Squished the vinyl flat before seizing up. The 3/8" allen/hex driveshaft twisted around partially, but didn't break. The teeth on the camshaft & distributor gears got chewed up in the process, also shearing the pin holding the distributor gear in place on its shaft.
I was already planning an engine swap, and didn't want to invest a bunch of money into fixing the 400 properly. So I cleaned up the oil pump, swapped in a spare distributor gear, new timing gears & chain, set the timing, cleaned the oil pan and changed the oil & filter, and hoped for the best.
It's been running fine ever since! Better actually, without the timing slop.
It's still gonna come out though.
As simple as the oil pump is , this was still very informative Thanks UT.
Appreciate your time in making these videos. Your experience shows.
Superb video. This explained everything I wanted to know, and more.
An exception to packing the pump with grease is with the aviation engines with their huge clearances, low compression, low RPM operating range. One additional thing you can do when blueprinting an oil pump is reducing the clearance between the pump cover and the gears: target of around 0.002 inches of clearance. A flat surface, a piece of fine sand paper and figure 8 motion until the desired clearance is achieved. Keep ‘em coming Tony!
Great videos, really like the technical ones, but getting back to the basics are helpful, in remembering stuff and even learning a different way. Keep them coming.
Thank you uncle Tony a very educational video on oil pumps you have an old school of knowledge.🇺🇲🚗🚙
You forgot to mention why you should and shouldn't run a hi volume pump in certain applications. For an example I build a lot of LS turbo motors and if you just bolt a hi volume hi pressure pump on a motor in think you can rev 7,000 rpms for long periods of time it will run the pan dry. Hi volume high pressure pumps in my opinion are for added bearing clearance because you're creating a bigger leak. Most engine builders I know like 2.5-3 in something that's going live at 1,200 horsepower+ on race track but if you're going to Street drive it around mite not want to go that much maybe like 2. My one engine builder builds big block Chevy 1,200hp blower car stuff and runs 1.5 on mains and 2 on the rods with a good h bearing's. Some how he has good luck with that Seems a little tight to me but he's been building for 45 years.
The oil film takes up 002 thousands so you gotta loosen em up to get oil around the rod and main journals the first Crank I ever had balanced was on a small journal Corvette 327 and the engine builder called me and said hey it's going to be another 50 bucks I gotta polish the hell out of this crank you don't have enough room for oil when I got it back home it looked like chrome and 8000 thousand RPM was 200 below redline stock melling oil pump Corvette pan and factory windage tray Old school a I loved those little engines but eventually they had to be retired for bigger cubic inches or stay on the porch 👍👍
Before I put a new oil pump in my Comanche 4.0 I put a little bit of oil in the pressure side; backed the shaft off a little, put more in and bolted it up to the block. (Damn, those pickup tubes are a bitch to R&R!) Been working fine ever since. AMOF at roughly 215,000 miles it has better oil pressure, than the 208,000+mile 4.0 in my Grand Cherokee! It's gettin' a new one before long, too :-).
Good info Unk.
I had a bypass valve stuck shut on a hi volume pump. On a cold start the oil preasure was 80 at idle and if you started to drive right away there would be a permanent bulge in the oil filter
These kinds of videos are very informative, hope to see more like this. Once again, you have shown me things that I did not know. Thank you.
Actually the Rover V8 was known as an engine that needed the pump packed or it doomsday, it would never prime. Even an oil change, swap the filter first then drop the oil. The problem could even occur if the vehicle had been sitting a longtime.
I had in the past used a pressure sprayer hooked up to oil pressure fitting to prime them.
Sure someone will mention other Buicks that were similar. Incidentally never seen issues with the Vasaline, but like I mentioned, you can use a pressure sprayer.
The rover v8 and Buick V8s are closely related if you know your auto history. Might explain some of that
@@wobbles7915 Correct. I had a Rover SD1 V8 in my Toyota Celica and I purchased a manual which stated that Rover V8 is based Buick.
Is the Rove a gear pump or the type shown here.
@@wobbles7915 Buick 215.
@@mpetersen6 Gear.
These simple tech videos are fantastic for the newbie building their first motor in the back shed component by component. I would love to see a complete playlist of each component breakdown and explanation working towards a complete build.
Thank you for this video. I understand now a whole lot better how they work.
Hope you never die.. absolute genius
That about high value pump explained is what my engine is doin thanks I know what to install and try.
wow I learned what I needed to know about the oil pumps, thank you Tony !
Great video! I have a 2000 Jeep Cherokee, 282000+ miles. Well, it was that time to replace the rear oil seal, might as well replace the oil pump too. It's a Melling high volume pump. Talk about a night and day difference on the pressure.
Awesome video. Finally got me to understand oil pumps and is knowledge useful on nearly all cars
I built my first car engine when I was 12-13, years old, that was such longer ago than I want to think, before that it was a couple. Small engines, and a good bit of tinkering, with alot of stuff, it was a few years before OBD-2 , I used to use a high volume pump, but figured, unless you have looser than stock clearances, higher volume is just eating more power!
holy cow, I actually never knew all this about oil pumps. I never had to change one out before. Man this was so informative. THANK YOU. I love learning. Trying to prepare for someday building me a vehicle.
Forgot to revisit the filter relationship, and mention that a long pull on a 5qt pan with a high volume pump can suck a pan dry, but good accurate info.
Awesome, comprehensive video.
My cure for the common Ford oil pump shaft:
SBF - hardened Melling or ARP
BBF - hardened Melling
Glad we got the old UTG back. No more going down vapor fuel rabbit hole
I had one pump that wouldn’t prime. I took off the oil filter and used a shop Vac to suck some oil through the pump which then allow the pump to prime.
Thanks UTG, great tutorial on oil pumps.
The noise in the back is not a problem, your first 5 or All the videos have more noise & dogos eating your food 😂,am joke, you have amazing videos with a lot of knowledge, am like it ,am still looking your videos since you started, 10 years ago they are all good’s even with noises thanks for what you teaching
My hubby takes every new oil pump apart and checks clearances, which are usually wrong, and one time, found a metal chip in the pump !
we always soaked the oil pump internals in STP and put it together old school trick I'm sure you know about!
YOu did good on this one, shiming the springs, good stuff. One thing you didn't touch on is the gears are pressed on slant six, a peice of grit/metal get in there it will spin the rotor off the shaft. I have welded the gear on the shaft. it wasn't bad, you just have to plane the weld down so it works against the plate. Its a close tolerance, and you can lose pressure so be sure to use care machining it down after you welld it
Thanks- I learned a lot.
Yeah the oil pump shaft on a SBF is the Achilles heel of it in my opinion... I put an aftermarket shaft in them even if it is a stock type build! Good video..
Yeah, the long Allen key waa. Always fun to see them twisted like a pretzel.......in somebody else's engine.
Andy be keeping an eye on UT 👀
@@baby-sharkgto4902 Always!
Great job Uncle Tony.
Excellent lesson Uncle Tony.
Cheers & stay safe guys😊
The basic tech stuff is some of your best stuff. I know most of it, but still learn something from many of them.
Hi Uncle Tony. Good job. I learned a lot. The next oil system video vould be about the downstream component, the oil filter. Check valve diaphram, silicone or rubber. What engines have bypass valves in the filter or not. Filter media and pleat count, etc. Good quality filters vs. Cheap ones, etc. Thanks.
Agreed, that could make a very good educational video.
Project Farm did a video on oil filters. I think you might like it.
Thanks for this. It’s just what I needed.
This is perfectly timed video. I've been thinking about what to do with the oiling system on my 455 Olds. They have over oiling issues from what I have read and understand.
Excellent show, thank you
Great video on oil pump basics!
GREAT video! I woct 2 about the 440 oil pump befor this and they were useless. (including vasaline) Now I finally know I need a hi volume pump on my old 440 due to low presssure after it warmz up.
Uncle Tony, you are correct on each point, right on brother. It is a missed opportunity to add oil accumulators. There is a huge discussion going on about the but it all comes down to how the vehicle is driven. Plus the new wrinkle is the "Stop / Start" technology being employed. I truly come that era where we rebuilt everything and I can't stand the idea that someone is going to have the same starter life, flex plate life or bearing wear as they did without these systems as a 4 cylinder is going to stop at the same location (Plus / Minus 3 teeth) and take it from there!
DK, Omaha. ASE Master Tech, retired.
Great Video exactly what we need more of the basic engine parts and how the work and how to fix them
Great video Tony!
This bypass valve part saved my day , thank you!! About to go pull the pump off the slant 6 😂
On a 63 Mercury comet I had an oil pump jam up and twist off the distributor to oil pump shaft, because of 1 "little" piece of carbon that got sucked into the oil pump gears. about 1/16" piece about the size of a grain of sand !
Great tutorial, Thanks
Another super usefull lesson. Thanks Tony!
Thank you very much UT for explaining this. I learned more in 14 minutes about oil pumps than I have in 20 years because everyone I've talked to has had a different opinion or theory, and especially for HV and HP pumps. This got me thinking.
Say you buy a classic car or truck with 100K miles and it runs good but doesn't look like the engine was taken care of. Instead of just doing a tune up and changing fluids pull and inspect the pump for signs of grit or abrasion.
Even though a worn pump could still make pressure it might not be making what it should. I've known guys who say 10 PSI at idle is okay because the engine is worn when in fact it could be a good engine with a a worn pump. Replace the pump and you restore proper lubrication and maybe extend the life of that motor.
Thank you for the information
I’m glad you covered the gasket
By the way, I love your videos!♡!♡! Thank you for sharing your knowledge and experiences. There are a lot of people who don't know the difference between a head gasket and an ass gasket. You are not one of those people. I only have a fraction of the knowledge you have, and take all of your video info and translate it into air-cooled VW engine, because that is all I really know but love to learn more. So thank you again
thank you! i always learn something useful from you
If Uncle Tony does a whole series of lectures on basic automotive technology, I'll watch every one of them. Beats 99% of stuff on RUclips.
as usual UT takes us to the classroom ty
Melling is the only brand of oil pump i use in engine rebuilds and never had an issue.I do mostly fords and the drive shafts are so flimsy,always replace them with a Melling or ARP shaft even if its a stock rebuild.If any of you reading this have Fords the shaft will twist off with the engine still running with no oil pressure (If the pump locks up) If you use a hardened shaft it will shear off the pin in the distributor and the engine will shut off saving it.
The Ford's have a shaft like a 5/16 Allen wrench if I remember right the last one I built was in a old square bronco 302 2barrel bore job new Pistons cam lifters and valve job went back stock they run that thing in the mud till the sides fell off the body 👍
Had this exact thing happen to me with my 92 mustang. oil pump was binding, not totally seized. It still spun the gear on the distributor shaft. Somehow it didn't spin it totally off. Not knowing what had happened I managed to limp the car home a mile with timing retarded 40 degrees ATDC. The engine is now out of the car for a refresh.
@@wickedlou9 That's amazing it ran in that state,the OE 5.0 engines use an aluminum oil pump housing while the Melling replacement is cast iron and beefy.Part number M-68 is a standard volume pump for any small block ford. ARP 154-7904 is the drive shaft.
Thankyou greatly, a very clear and educational explanation.
Wanna have some fun Tony, Fill a 5 gallon aquarium with water, hook a drill to the shaft. Stick an unlubricated pump in the water and turn on the drill. It will suck up water even dry (head pressure) and send it out the port. . You can show the difference of the high volume pump at the same RPM too
Cool and interesting video! I really like watching your channel because I always learn something. On worn pumps or for high performance applications, there is a company called Line to Line Coatings that have an abradable powder coat they use mainly for piston skirts, but they also do anything that rotates and has clearances like oil pumps. Pretty cool stuff!
A extra lesson for your book... Well done.
Thanks for what you do..I've learned so much
Tony, I did a good amount of LS style engines in the GMC Savana vans, ( we gotta fleet of about 2-300 of em, I had those a few times never make pressure, almost like it was vapor lock. I reverse filled the oil through the switch, tried a few other tricks but i find a lil bit of gear oil helped me.
Great informational video, This is the type of content that drew me to your channel
Most mechanics I know of prime the oil pump before they put the distributor in to make sure the engine is lubed before startup. It also lets you know what the pressure is.
yup, I've had my knuckles smashed against the firewall more than once priming an engine. You have to be ready for when the pump starts building pressure or it can twist a powerful drill out of your hands
@@superrodder2002 Ouch 🤕
Mechanics gloves is a thought.....
Great info, thanks!
Thanks uncle tony
Good video. Uncle T touched on something from my HD mechanic school days... very simply, pre-lube every component with the same fluid it will be exposed to while operating normally. In addition, always follow the installation instructions provided with the component. It's that easy.
"instructions! i don't need no stinking instructions". much work, head scratching and possibly a few thrown tools later, "now, where are them stinking instruction. hope i didn't throw them away.".
anecdote from my personal experience.
@@jessebianchi2631 hahaha, too true brother!
I got something out of this. My oil pump was shot.
Thanks for the tips!!!!
Thanks Tony. Good to know.
Very well put together 👍🏼 Appreciate it boss
Ahahahahah, yeah Tony, I can tell you, some 30 yrs ago, I had my friend, my Mechanic in Mexico. I brought to him all of the parts to "rebuild" my 1953 Chevy, 216 cu in inline 6 cyl parts, but I didn't buy an OIL PUMP. My mechanic tells me, hey Marcelo you didn't bring me an oil pump? I told him, "oh , it doesn't need it, the oil presure was FINE". He told me,........... "look, if I'm going to be going into this engine so deeply, you need to bring me a NEW OIL PUMP, doesn't matter if you say it didn't need it, I'm going to put in a NEW oil pump. Otherwise, all of the other parts are going to be NEW and the oil pump will be old, and it's the WEAK LINK, and it'll break , right away! You go get me/bring to me a NEW OIL PUMP! I said , yes sir. I learned something very valuable, right there~!