OIL FILTER BYPASS? SBC
HTML-код
- Опубликовано: 15 сен 2024
- Do you need a oil filter bypass on your SBC?This video should help you decide if you need one or not. From my own past experiences with building SBC's.
This video is a must watch if you have a freshly built SBC!
![Eminem - Like My Shit [Official Audio]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/vx_IMvFkrfA/mqdefault.jpg)
-lifter clip got past the pump-pick up screen? Man, that guy wins the "bad luck" award.
Like i said I wouldn't believe it if I didn't see it hahaha
Are you supposed to leave the clip in the lifters because I pulled them out of mine before I installed them into my engine
@@Clawson_customs ive never heard of anyone doing that
Great video. Done this since the 70's in SBC boat racing engines. Thread the pipe plug the other way since that is the pressure side. Bypass ovens at 18 # so not all oil is filtered. With the plug in 100% of the oil is filtered. Never blew a filter or gasket and cold oil pressure was 90#, 60# hot at 6000rpm. Never jazzed the rpm with cold oil.
When installing the oil filter adapter make sure the part that has/had the bypass is away from the hole in the block ie 180° to how you had it while demonstrating.That way it does not block oil flow.
" Most spin-on filters must be used with some sort of bypass because they can't flow enough oil to handle 100% of the pump/ engine demand" Jenkins. The exception is AC 832 truck filter.
Don't forget there is another bypass, in the oil pump.
I've always plugged the bypass on all my SBC's. I use straight 30HD and use NAPA's truck oil filters, part # 1794. It probably has a quart and a half capacity and it's length is longer but I've never had any ground clearance problems or blown out any gaskets on them. I also run melling high volume oil pumps. All on everyday drivers. I enjoy your videos.
Awesome man! I will check that filter out
Planning a oil filter cut open comparison video!
Race on! 🏁
Amazing how GM specifies a one CUP size filter on their 5.3, 6.0, and 6.2 LS engines.
Early ones with a 10 psi bypass, and some newer ones with a 20 psi bypass.
2:14 😊@@hotrodray6802
I can’t believe I passed by your videos for so long, you are a Awsome teacher, so glad I subbed.👍🇨🇦
I delete the bypass on all my engine builds and use a race filter because they don't filter down to fine micron ratings I change my oil more often but my SBC idles at 36psi fully warm and when I took off the pan last year everything still looked brand new with 110k miles on it.
You only loose one engine to the oil filter bypass valve to make this mod very very cheap. Somehow my cam and crank survived but the bearings didn’t. Engine had 300 miles on it. I Ran the oil filter bypass blocked on a big block on the street for several years with no problems. You do have to make sure that you have a filter that can withstand the additional pressure when using high pressure pumps and heavier single viscosity oils. Can’t go wrong with Wix. I’m sure there are many others that would be suitable. Cutting a few open reveals the inner construction methods used by the manufacturer. Asking the provider for information on what particle sizes it can filter out is also a good idea. Thank you for sharing your knowledge.
I just can't understand how a valve cap keeper clip can make its way even from the upper valve deck as the clip is bigger than the gallery holes that direct the oil back to the pan. It seems to me the plug magnet would have caught it...then somehow it made its way through the sump pick up screen??? Hmm sound more like a botched valve install where the clip wasn't seated all the way into the groove on the keepers but was able to hold the keepers temporarily until jarred loose...if there's one thing I hate doing is valve spring keepers ugggh I pull my hair out twiiiing there it goes flying off to who knows where lol back to the parts house for more keeper clips lol...especially on imports that are sunken under lifter bucket shim caps...
@@timbosims4397 doh, the clip is from the inside of the hyd lifter, it holds the lifter cup/piston/spring inside the lifter. still it is a great demo on epoxying screens in the lifter valley to stop needles from roller rockers and other small parts like pieces from broken valve springs out of the pan.
Had the same thing happen to me lost oil pressure and shut down engine.Took apart and spring clip was locking up pump gears and broke shaft. Had 3 let go sometime on a 6 hour drive. A lot of oil moved in that time and pulled the clip in. Shook my head as to what happened. Replaced clips and quick inspection and all good.
Never really thought about that if I’m honest. Rebuilding the Sbc in my sons 72 Ventura now and I’m definitely going to use this advice from now on…. Good on ya brother!! 👈😎👈
Wix and baldwin actually make the NAPA gold series of filters. My trucks are diesel , so good fuel filters are important as well as oil filters. Baldwin, wix and Napa gold are the filters I use on all my engines, unless , like the wife’s car, it calls for a specific filter from OE because of the weird new low weight oils. Even my harleys get good filters. Either OE or those 3.
Just a little extra fyi to add to your great info, Rockwell used the same filter adapter in semi rear axles with inbuilt pump & filter for HD applications but were not machined for bypass so is blanked off, Baldwin B7 filter is slightly longer again which I use on my truck, keep up the great video's interesting stuff in a very easy to watch way
I built a flat tappet 350 with a high volume oil pump. I had a rear main leak during break in. Figured I’d address it while it was still on the stand. Dumped the oil (with plenty of shimmer) and pulled the pan and main cap. The rear crank journal had light scoring already from only 25-30 minutes of break in. I could feel it with my finger nail. Checked a rod main just to make sure but it was fine. I put molly lube during the build and was how that journal could have been gouged. The high volume oil pump opening the bypass and letting unfiltered oil pass through, makes sense. Fml. Wish I’d seen this vid 3 months ago.
Thats exactly it! Sorry to hear about that man hopefully, it didn't cause too much damage
I've also heard from reputable engine builders that the HV pumps should never be used with a stock pan as it can suck them dry at high rpm and starve the bottom end? Maybe you can do a video on high volume and pressure oil pumps, pickups, pans, windage trays, etc...?
The most likely scenario is the clip was busted to pieces prior to entering the oiling system. If the filter used had poor filtration efficiency, something like a Wix XP which has the efficiency of a tennis racket, then pieces of that clip can (and have) go right through it. This problem is made worse when the bypass is deleted as that causes the pressure differential across the filter media to increase which causes the filtration efficiency of the filter to fall substantially. In testing a modified version of ISO 4548-12 (the standard for oil filter testing), blocking the bypass caused pressure spikes as high as 40 psi across the media (with a large Ford FL1A sized filter and 5W-20 oil, much higher with more viscous oil and smaller filter) and caused the filtration efficiency of a standard Wix to fall from ~90% @ 20 um to
Good info to consider, thanks.
The way the Oil Filtration system works on a Small Block Chevy and Big Block Chevy V8 is that the Oil Filter only filters engine oil at idle speeds. Once engine oil Pressure increases with off idle rpms the Stock Bypass valve is 100% Open.
THIS IS FULL FLOW OIL SYSTEM.
The Filter is in parallel flow and only series flow at engine idle speeds engine oil Hot.
Same Layout used in a Pontiac V8.
Block the bypass off I have done even with best pil filters rated high flow seen 10-15 psi less lower oil Pressure Hot at idle to 6000+ Rpms
If I`m not mistaken performance filters have a courser medium in the vicinity of 60 nanometers where as a stock application is around 20 nanometers, much finer. If you use a high volume pump on a bargain filter with no bypass the filter can rupture or the element can be collapsed and cause loss of oil pressure, I use wix "r" filters in my shop on my track motors with no bypass and baldwins on the work vehicles and grocery getters. By the way I really like those 062 vortecs, I been hanging on to a set for myself that flow 244 @ .500. The napa filters are Wix
So on racing engine we have used, the fram Racing and Wix are also good. I've heard of the same collapsed filter theory but I've tried it on my own hotrod. Not race engines but high performance street, high volume pumps thicker oils and haven't experienced any collapsed filters (cutting them open to check) I've been using regular wix or Baldwin. That being said most filters have a internal bypass that will bypass at a higher pressure than the GM bypass
I am about to add oil to my new , for me , 350 Vortec , but first I will drop the adaptor and use the pipe plug >Thank You for the video .
Fram filters are junk due to their “Core shift” issues. Core shift being the filter media breaks loose and restricts the flow of oil. Long/short circa 1992
I experienced a Fram core shift issue, how did I know? Because both Fram and Walmart admitted the core shift issue so I filled out my claim and submitted it to Fram. I had a fresh 357 SBC at the time; the core shift restriction caused the lifters to collapse! I wasn’t asking for a new engine, only a new cam/lifters but Fram never paid one cent even after admission of fault. I was a young guy in my early 20’s with no way to setup a lawsuit. JD
Sorry to hear about that man! I've personally never had a issue with a fram filter on my own stuff but after cutting man different brands apart.....I can honestly see why some guys have issues with fram.
I like Wix (or napa premium) or my favorite is Baldwin cause they are basically the same inside design as wix with a thicker shell
@@cuttersperformance My family had always used Fram filters and Pennsoil; I don’t use either now. lol
Yeah it was weird, changed oil on Saturday everything was great, drove to work Monday still good but when I left work I noticed cruising 55-60 MPH my oil press was only 20# not the 50-60# it normally had! Pulled over and all lifters were clacking... I checked the oil level, tried adjusting the rockers again but nothing helped. I called the Walmart Automotive, the technician said “you have a core shift can I bring it in?”. I limped it the 15 miles to Walmart they swapped the filter, added 1 quart of Rislone and the oil pressure returned to normal but the lifters never recovered.
my cousin had two frams collapse on two of his cars.
I just finished doing this myself, thanks for your help!
Twice i have found a bypass stuck open. The first time there was a piece of nylon from the cam gear jammed in it ( a 1970 400 SB). The second time ( a 1988 350 TPI) it was just cocked and open. I could get it to close but if I pushed it just right it would stick again. I plug the bypass on all of my builds now. As far as ballooning a filter or losing oil; pressure during a cold start., the bypass in the pump should open preventing that. I have seen an external bypass on a diesel engine fail. This engine was failing and pumping garbage through the pump which stuck the bypass and plugged the filter. When the filter plugged, the pump and oil won, completely crushing the paper and center tube in the filter. Total destruction followed!
Exactly! My truck with a 355 daily driver running a Baldwin B27 on 10w40 oil bypass plugged. Full oil changed interval, I cut the oil filter apart and it showed no signs of collapsing or ballooning. Truck see freezing Temps right now and 90 psi of oil pressure
i cant believe that clip went all the way through the pump in pieces then through the filter, that is truly scary. that is a very good selling point for lifter valley screens.
You are very knowledgeable that’s why I viewed. I’m building a vortec 350. But this I would not claim. That that clip went through an oil pump. Try it. Take a junk pump on engine on the stand. Engine bottom up. Cut pickup off. Put clip in with oil. Using a priming tool power the pump.
I know its hard to believe but I saw it all with my own eyes. I don't know if I would believe it if I didn't see it lol
You could literally see the imprint on the pump gears of the peices of the clip. I think the pump is kicking around the shop somewhere. I gotta find it so you guy can see this crazy sh*t
did you break it in half? thats why it fell out in the first place i'm betting.
I was doing this in the 70's on my round track engines. I never told anybody about this. always use a Wix 2 quart filter designed for 366 Big Blocks log truck motors. Never had any oiling problems.
Hell yeah brother!
I use them bigger oil filters also sometimes and gives u more filtering area.
I've heard from 2 other mechanics that fram filters killed 2 different engines. On initial fire up both had the same complaint the engine produced next to nothing for oil pressure and shutdown the engine quickly upon further inspection found that the oil filter imploded or sucked in the case to the core of the filter destroying the engine immediately.
And were the Fram filters pre filled with oil when installed?
Never had a issue on my sbc without a bypass running 15-40 shell Rotella in the winter it’s been down to -11 F where I live
When installing a Chevy style bypass clock the bypass to the outside of the block , your demonstration shows it to the inside. When installing a aftermarket oil filter adapter with out bypass ramp goes to the inside .
its funny you say that... i had somebody ask me that recently. So from factory that were installed closer to the block (Look up in a old service manual) but some guys claim better oil flow installed away from the block
Ive done both ways and found no difference
I always use a filter Magnet.....
I may have missed it but that clip looks to be from a hydraulic lifter where it holds the inside tab of the plunger.
What he said. I am guessing it got broken in two before making it past the screen and then the oil pump. Note to self: never settle for cheap lifter hardware.
I wonder what his pan to pump clearance was...
@@flinch622 must have been close to suck it up off the bottom.
I replace those cheap wire springs in the lifters with good C clips and use a screen between the filter and block and finally use magnets on out side of the filter or filters as well as auto tranny pan and I used a bolt and nut in the by-pass.the racing fram filters are good.i did see testing of filters on you/tube where they found that the k&n silver or gold was actually a smidge better than six racing but there are many that are more than adaquate,ac-Delo,motor craft,six racing as well as fram racing and GM has some qt truck filters like the Baldwin you showed and bigger.I’m running 2 right now with screens
What happens if you take them clips out of the lifters and install them in a motor? Because I just did that with my motor I have not started it yet
Take them out and replace them with hi heat snap rings which is what’s in all good lifters,the usually more expensive lifters.with the trouble being had with cams and lifters now I won’t even buy them if they don’t come with them.i looked a few sets I’ve more than 10 yrs recently and was happy to see that they were the right ones.
@@barrykilts4506 I ordered new lifters yesterday that have snap rings
The bypass opens during cold start when the cold oil can't flow well through the filter. I've always blocked them. The filter itself has a bypass ability as well. The Fram part number is PH373, - easy to remember to cross reference to other brands. This one is the large high capacity filter. I use Fram for engine break-in as they are cheap and I'm just going to toss it soon.
Don't use those. If you have seen those videos on RUclips when people cut open a bunch of new oil filters to compare each brands quality, you will never buy a Fram oil filter again. Air filters are ok
Yeah I seen those, even KnN is junk, I was floored cause that's all I ever ( ran) on my bikes and trucks, Baldwin all the way
You can also use A duramax filter on a small block. I run high volume pumps and always recommend them. They are almost identical size to the Baldwin in length. (About 1/2" longer.) And already have a bypass in them for more than what the small block normally has. And they filter well. I have run everything from 5w-30 to 10w40 with them. (5w-30 w/lucas and ZDDP additive) or 10w-40 with ZDDP only. And they do great. At least the ones I've recommended this to. I use & recommend this combo to quite a few people and most of these engines have already made it well over 100k miles; or about 170,000km and they run great. They are mostly mild builds (such as mellings mtc-1 & summits k1103 cam kits) with reasonable compression. 9.7-10.5:1. And I'm not sure that they all had the bypass removed as I never tore into everyone of them. But they do seem to keep oil clean enough.
Yessir! Always high volume on the oil pump! I always say its better to have too much lubrication than not even. I also keep it a half quart over full in case it tries to suck the pan dry
What size oil pan you running with that high volume pump? A standard size pan will get sucked dry by a high volume pump
@@grapeseed427 I always run about 1/5-1/4 qt over every oil change.. it’s been treating me right for yrs.. so I cannot disagree with that
@@jerryjester4959 I have run a standard pan.. and yes still one aswell, lol.. but your right about that, I always run a bit over on oil on the safe side.. I know someone’s probably gonna disagree eventually.. but most of your oil gets sucked to the top especially when cold, soo running atleast a “1/4 qt. Over” will not do harm, trust me I’ve been running engines like this for yrs.. I don’t know it all but I do know how these work & what they can benefit from
I beleive that the newer vortec SBC blocks are best though… they are made pretty tough from the factory.. they have a “one peice rear main”, roller blocks are gauranteed after a certain date, generally 4bolt.. forged rods & nodular crank.. they came with a filter adaptor on trucks that used a much smaller filter but removing it would allow you to use the bolt in adaptor for a classic style filter & everything else remains basically the same throughout the yrs unless your talkin about the side the dipstick is on or the fact it had a plastic timing chain cover
Baldwin, Wix and Hastings are very good filters. Purolator filters are decent also. I use K&N filters with Mobil 1 extended performance synthetic oil. I have been running this in my vehicles for years and never had an issue.
Im collecting filters to make a upcoming video with all the filters cut apart to see whats what
Let me know if there's a brand you want to see
KN is made by Champion aircraft filters.
Fun fact. Wix makes filters for a lot of other brands. I know at one time Carquest filters were Wix filters. I believe (don't quote me) that Napa filters are made by Wix. I've never had a problem with Fram filters, but I went to Wix after hearing all the horror stories and seeing one cut open.
I've always run a bypass, but you bring up a good point about bypasses and high volume oil pumps. I think I might start blocking the bypass from here forward as I always replace the stock oil pump with high volume even on stock rebuilds and even when just changing out the pan gasket or a rusty pan. Cheap insurance against a spun bearing.
Yeah I know for sure the Wix makes the napa gold filters
Maybe I will have to get a bunch of brands of filters and cut the open to see in a upcoming video
@@cuttersperformance that would be a good video even just to see the differences between brands
Many engine builders say to never run a high volume pump with a stock pan or it can suck the pan dry of oil at high rpm?
@@RSAW73 Not true. with loose clearances, oil returns to the pan faster. With tight clearances, only so much oil can go through the engine, so more oil remains in the pan. The immutable law of physics proves that.
@@normhodgkinson6965 Interesting theory, I will certainly explore this further as I build my Vortec engine. Thanks.
I have A old 60s GM repair book and it says that the bypass only works at very low pressure 15 pounds
Fram oil filters are JUNK
Ran them for years, care to explain why they're junk?
If you have the time and funds, buy a fram, a napa gold and a perolator filter. cut them open and you will see how crappy a fram filter realy is.
The regular fram filters are crap not the racing filters
well the biggest thing would be how many pounds of pressure exactly does it take to start cracking open the bypass? i mean if its purpose is to open to prevent oil starvation in the event of a clogged filter then really it should be slightly open anywhere from 20-30 to 35 psi of oil pressure so the engine can still receive oil at idle with a clogged filter. So when we run our engines at 6000 rpm with 60 psi of pressure oil is DEFINITELY getting past the filter just due to the fact that it offers resistance to flow
Carquest filters are made by Baldwin too, 85060 is the tall, 85061hd is the tall filter with no anti drain-back, and 85069 is the short, 2 quart filter is the 85794 and also has no anti-drainback.
Good info! Thank you
Have a strange lubrication problem with my lifters on my CSB. Yesterday I began thinking about this bypass valve. I have just changed my lifters, pushrods and rockers. I took real care to make sure that everthing was clean. Adjusted them well. When cold starting the engine it makes a hell of a noise from the lifters. So I removed a valve cover and made a cold start. And there wasnt a drop of oil coming från the hole in the rockers. It took about 30 seconds for it to start to dribble a little and another 4-5 minutes before it was ok. When its up to temperature it runs smoth with no bad sounds.
So my theory is that this valve is stuck open and when the engine is shut down every drop of oil is draing back through it, Basicly making every start a dry start.
Even with a bypass stuck open or missing the oil shouldn't be draining out of the lifters. Some out will be pushed out of some of the lifters by valve spring pressure on open valves but this is normal after shut down.
I have had a few sets of new lifters bleed down over night and are noisy for 5 to 10 seconds on start up.
Confirm you have good oil pressure, proper oil viscosity, a good oil filter, and proper lifter preload.
i wonder if the pump bypass is stuck open?
I saw an urgent video about oil filter by pass so I jumped to your site as well
I just cut open a fram filter for sbc and it’s just like in your video
I am finishing a sbc re ring job so I got worried
I plugged the bypass just like you did and with a better filter choices I feel confident sometimes you got to slow down and think it through keep up the good work
The video was uncle Tony’s garage not urgent dam spell checker
You can get that housing, without any provision for a bypass. It's a Chevrolet factory part, my 76' k20 4bolt had one.
Yeah I also run a aftermarket one on my trans am by moroso
Cheers!
That retaining clip for the plunger on the hydraulic lifter; my buddies engine had 2 lifters lose their clips, I found one on the valley & the other was stuck in the pickup screen.
The break-in procedure was probably neglected & it’s my guess that the valve train was probably never adjusted properly or even at all.
I would rather have a differential warning than a bypass - maybe 15 psi, but setpoint depends on element used. Something like a 100 micron screen maybe make it 8.
Many oil filters have a internal bypass just in case the filter clogs. I've cut many filters apart, if it clogs, you probably have major problems.
Yeah alot of them due but most at a higher pressure than the stock sbc bypass
I will be making a video comparing different brands and we will see how they all look cut open, should be fun!
No BS I’m in the middle of my cam swap right now and pulled the lifters out and one of them came out with that little clip missing. Hopefully it’s in the bottom of the oil pan ..
Yeah hopefully! I've had them pop out and found in the valley or the pan
@@cuttersperformance yep I've had a lot fall out on stock vortec roller lifters.
You can replace with internal pin type snap rings, this will eliminate the problem....good luck
In fall and winter, I use 5w-30.
In hot weather I use 10w-30 or 10w-40.
Read your owners manual.
It's seems if these clips are falling of the lifters this easy there is a parts quality issue, engine components should not be falling apart like this.
Wix has specs for their oil filters on their web site - Wix XP oil filters have thicker filter casing walls with the flow rates listed as well.
HV engine oil pumps have about 8 gallons per minute of flow rate at high RPM - so looking up the flow rate spec on the oil filter you are using will ensure your oil filter will not fail prematurely.
I've been using balwins and regular Wix filters for years, and I never had a failure or lack of oil pressure with a plugged bypass up to 6800 RPM on several engines, and even in the cold winters on my shop truck. We use the Wix racing filters on our Super stock, but it turns 9200 RPM through the lights
I would think that oil control is everything. Also if you change the oil frequently with good quality oil, and a good filter Wix or K&N Gold series it should be fine.
From what I have gathered K&N are junk also
Seen needle bearings on ford trucks get sucked up and chew up the oil pumps
I had rocker arm bearing clips break due to wrong clearances from manufacturing on my SBF. The pick up tube filter is crimped into place and has gaps all around which the clip went through. It took out my pump and then resulted in spun bearing.
That isn't really the reason for the bypass. If your at a point where your oil filter is clogged the engine already damaged and probably making noise. The reason for the bypass is to supply enough flow of oil. It is a fluid power theory of a pump creates flow and the lines create pressure etc. way beyond what I am willing to type. Most hydraulic tech (aviation for myself) and anyone big into brakes should have that knowledge.
Another issue is a few comments mentioned filters have a bypass. That is false. Yes, some do and maybe even most. When I worked for Mazda we get them 626's all the time for ticking sounds and it was from the lifters (yes, overhead cams can have hyd lifters, before you argue google it) from using a non-Mazda oil filter BECAUSE the Mazda OEM filter had the by pass in the filter where the aftermarket, including Fram, did not. This caused under high loads and cold starts to starve the top end of oil. It is only a basic spring and check valve (usually a ball) that gets over ridden when pressure get to high (cold, high load, etc) so the engine doesn't starve.
Seems counter productive to NOT run one yet spend hundreds on high pressure/volume oil pumps and special oil pans to assure adequate supply of oil.
As with most things in life.. (insert size joke) the size of the oil filter isn't relevant if you change your oil on time and use quality oil and filter. GM has two basic filters for the small block the "normal" and the small. The small was used on newer 4 wd trucks and had the cooler adapter on it. The smaller one had the same filtering capability (30 micron I believe) and gpm of flow as the large one.
Cut open your favorite oil filter, if you see a by pass it is probably because your engine doesn't have one, but out of the thousands I have cut on sbc and LS engines not one bypass valve to be seen.
Riddle me this, why do the majority of engines at a junk yard have fram filters if fram is so good????
Gm claims the oil filter bypass is to prevent a no oil condition if the filter element becomes restricted or during cold winter starts when the cold oil cannot past through the filter easily.
In my own testing ive have found testing that running no bypass even in the winter with thicker (10w40) I dont experience any oil pressure loss, starvation or oil filter damage (ie case bulging)
The bypass has nothing really do to with line pressure but more to do with pressure differential across the filter element. When the pressure difference on the inlet side of the element is approx 15 psi more (usually less on sbcs) than the exit side of the element the bypass will open.
Some filters (alot of racing filters) have a internal bypass with a screen that will open around 20 to 25 psi differential)
I cant agree with the engine damage vs filter clog. I work on all types of engines, ive seen lots of issues with cartridge filters. After extended oil change intervals causing the elements the plug up and collapse. No engine damage just too far in between oil changes. Oil gets dirty especially in modern direct injection engines the filter is doing its job but it can only collect so much but the larger the filter the more oil is can flow and the more debris it can collect before restriction.
Most hotrods are well taken care of and the oil and filter are changed way before the element is plugged.
A quality filter, no bypass and changing my oil by color not mileage is what works for me.
I highly recommend no bypass during break in, then you can swap out for a bypass after a few oil changes if you prefer
I cant say ive cut open thousands of filters but I certainly change quite of few in my career and cut open lots.
Ive cut apart enough to know that I wont run fram filters haha.
Balwin or wix is my preferred filters and ive had good luck my own hot rods, dailys and all my customers
Thanks for checking out my channel and i appreciate the input
i dont agree with your mazda explanation. if the mazda filter had a bypass that was there for a dirty filter or cold thick oil. no bypass would only restrict oil if the filter was clogged or if the oil was cold. my 92 mazda van had clicking lifters and i did not use mazda filters out of convience. It was not high mileage. After trying several different synthetics from the mobil 1 i was using, i took it to a shop. They did a search on mazda tech articles and those articles said the lifters needed shims to correct the problem. i traded it for a harley truck even though i really liked it for hauling my gear to the deerlease where i left my jeep all season.
Chinese lifters that aren't hardened are probably to blame for wiped cams more than break-in sequence.
So I came across a 1967 327 and it has smaller screw holes then the 283 I took the adapter off of. Are they different? Can I still use it with smaller bolts? Anyone please help
I would run a much larger oil filter with more filter media volume.
When the oil is cold and thick and or heavy weight oil will open the by pass until the oil heats up and thins out.
Run a good size magnet on the filter,or outer bottom of the pan..........you never know.
Good tip! Might have saved that engine
Crack open an old computer hard-drive. The magnet inside is ridiculously strong. Stick it to the pan just above the drain plug. When you change your oil, take it off just before you pull the drain plug. Hard-drive magnets are so strong, you can use them to pull a metal sliver from your eye. Serious.
@@micahj9828 Excellent tip!
@@micahj9828 that is great info but the only drives i have from the 80s or 90s are new never installed, i dint think i ever kept a bad one. dang it.
now that i think about it i had some big round magnets that had a white plastic coating on them white but i dont remember what they were used for originally.
I’m definitely gonna look into this on my current rebuild. I may just leave mine alone as it’s just a service vehicle and I’m running stock oil pump. I’d think that bypass would temporarily fluctuate open/ close all the time though if it’s 10-13 psi spring and most stock vehicles are running 30-50psi. One question I have is, do you use a gasket when installing the oil filter adapter?
seems like they come with a gasket when buying a new one.
I had 6 of those damn clips break on me a couple years back, I put a new set of comp lifters in , no problems since , the lifters that broke were new , however not brand name, so I wound up blaming the lifters for being made out of Chineseium
Thats really weird
Have you experienced vavle float? The only reason those clips could ever have pressure on them is if there is no valve no preload on the lifter. *valves not adjusted properly, valve float, or something worn down
I can't really figure it out either, it's possible I messed up adjusting the valves I am a hobby guy , however I have done this before, the car worked great at 5k rpm, it happened to 5 of them, and I did the exact same thing with the new comp lifters and they are still going strong 3 years later, the engine was a total rebuild, the heads were new 906 casting with, .489 lift on both sides of cam, I'd post the pictures here but I can't, the square clip broke directly across from the gap, no weird marks anywhere on lifters
Also I love your videos man thanks
@@jasonsalsman6491 if the springs got into coil bind or the retainers touched the seals that would cause havoc with the lifters i would think. maybe the seals are now "adjusted" for more clearance.
@charleswittmer2477 I think I've got it nailed down to not enough lash / not tightened down quite enough and the lifters were topping out and wearing the clip
I have used gram oil filters for 20 years with no problems and I use it as a daliy
The same thing happened to me with the lifter clip on an old engine. I have real snap ring lifters now.
Did the clip take out your crank aswell? Or just end up in the pan?
@@cuttersperformance made it through my pickup screen Locked my oil pump and broke my oil pump drive shaft. I shut it off as soon as I saw there was no oil pressure but i ended up replacing the whole engine as It was getting tired already anyways.
Wow insane! Still blows my mind it makes it past the pickup
@PISS-CUTTER Performance hey my new engine is a 355 with vortec heads and 10.7:1 compression. I'm running leaded 100 octane race gas ngk non projected 8 heat range copper plugs and a lunati voodoo 233/241 .050 cam. I was wondering if my jetting was correct I'm running an avs2 650cfm edelbrock carb and my spark plugs have a slight yellow tint on the end of the porcelain towards the ground strap then going down about half way a white ring all the way around about 1/16 wide then at the bottom a light black soot. It runs pretty good I have 8.5 wide 27" tall tires and a spool on a 3800lb car but still the original 3.08 gears it spins the tires very easily can get them to break loose going around 35mph but sometimes has a slight hesitation when transitioning to the secondaries could it just be the gears that they are too numerically low?
Need a higher volume filter if you’re using a high volume pump or you’re going to run on bypass quite abit
I'm not a mechanic .... not smart enough to be but. I think if you in beef up your pump and don't change much else... pressure you'd figure would increase and the bypass has some sort of return spring. Calibrated * LOL ... makes sense to me as I'm looking at it like a pressure relief valve ... thanks for the video enjoyed it. Made me think lol
I like the way your thinking man, but the bypass valve is actually not for controlling pump pressure. Its actually for allowing oil to flow around the oil filter element.
But that being said...going to a high volume pump will that cause the bypass to be open more than it should be? I think so. I believe its better to run a filter will a bypass that will usually bypass at the higher pressure or run a larger high quality oil filter and change it religiously.
Also the fact that your thought process was...better pump should equal better bypass...shows me you got some mechanic smarts..don't sell yourself short brother
Cheers!
Pat
@@cuttersperformance thanks for the explanation and the kind words. Cheers
You think if that motor with the clip that came off lifter if the oil pan drain plug would of been magnetic if would of caught it? I run a strong Derale magnetic plug on my new engines when I break them in and leave it there. I always ran the bypass and know what u are doing. It can get 20 below zero here in SD so I leave the bypass in place, I plug in my engines but the oil is still cold and if u block your bypass when the oil is stiff and cold the heavy oil can just bypass in and out of the oil pump if it has to much resistance being to heavy and can't go through the filter. Just a thought if u have thought about that? With the magnetic plug It will catch fine metal particles from a cross hatch cylinder breaking or camshaft breakin and u can clean plug and monitor things when u change the oil.
Its very possible that a magnet would have saved it, but at the same time this was a freak thing that I wouldn't believe..if I didn't see it with my own eyes haha
I've been running no bypass on my truck this winter way below freezing with 10w40 oil as an experiment to see if i notice any changes in oil pressure or damage to the oil filter.
So far no change in oil pressure, and no oil filter damage (cut open the filter to check element inside) thats with a Baldwin filter
Oem puts a bypass in incase someone doesnt do regular oil changes and its better to have dirty oil flow thru the motor than no oil at all.
I'm a little surprised the clip wasn't still in the lifter valley.
Yeah I have had them pop out and just sit in the valley, not that sucker haha I will never forget it
I wish i still have the oil pump where you could see the indent of the clip
Those non - by pass types are kinda expensive, about $40.00 from what I have seen. Nice to see a way to save some money and DIY.
I believe oil filters have a built in bypass, that’s what the spring is for in the filter. Seems like the filter adapter bypass is redundant.
This is true but apparently its often twice as high (2.5 bar) as your regular bypass so it rarely opens unless the filter plugs.
Many don’t have a built in bypass. Wix 51069 for example for a small block Chevy has no bypass.
Great video for me an eye opener thanks I’m just DIY my sbc 350 and getting all the info I can thanks one question is the B6 filter for sbc? Thanks
Yeah the B6 is for a SBC or BBC
I have a new car.. i was wondering how bypass works on cold starts... think i should get a early first oil change ?
Im abit crazy with stiff like that. I would do an oil change within the first 300 to 500 miles
I've had 2 failures with Fram oil filters. They are junk. Luckily no harm. I use ac Delco or a K&N on my Chevrolet and a Mopar filter or K&N on my Dodge.
Finally found the video i asked about
I've run them both ways on my SBC race engines. I've also checked the bottom ends. With the bypass I would always see scratches in the bearings from debris. Once I started running it blocked, I don't see that. IMO, the bypass is there for people that neglect maintenance or everyday drivers that see extended oil change intervals. I don't believe they belong in any perfrmance engine.
My man! You're exactly right. I've noticed the same thing, and some guys think it's crazy not to run one. Works perfectly for me, even in the winter months
A friend of mine built an engine for his round track car it had 60 psi oil pressure he ran the motor 5 miles and changed the brake in oil, he put a new filter on it and filled it up with oil. the filter he put on there this time was a Fram.
He started the car it ran five minutes and the oil pressure went to zero. I mean zero! I said that’s impossible you must have broken an oil pump shaft, the valves started rattling so we knew that the gauge wasn’t wrong. We pull the oil pan off and replaced the oil pump with an M 55HV.
Put the oil pan back on it filled it up with oil started the car oil pressure went up to 10 pounds then back to zero. We put the old oil filter back on there just for the hell of it & the oil pressure went up to 70 pounds cold.
That brand new Fram oil filter would not let any oil go through it and I thought the bypass had to be blocked but it wasn’t and I do not know why or how the oil pressure went to zero but as God is my witness it did and we fixed it by removing the Fram filter.
I used to be a diehard Fram user never again will I ever use one!
Thats some scary stuff! Once you start cutting fram filters open, I learned pretty quick why not to run them
You’d be surprised that the SuperTech oil filters are pretty good. Not saying you’d want to use them on a performance engine.
*They are made by Champion Laboratories.
I use ST filters on every vehicle I own. Been using them for years. No problems ever. Use ST motor oil,too.
@@jjwick3043
Yep. Just put ST oil and filter on my Camry this past Tuesday.
Warren Oil Company makes the ST oil and it’s highly rated too.
I use 15-40 rotella in my small blocks most are hydraulic flat tappet I have a vortec too, same oil and I use delco PF-932 filters on all of them, the big long tall filter, I’d never done this because I was skiddish that it would get enough oil pressure in the winter when the oil is cold. But I might reconsider that seeing this.
I run a plugged bypass in the cold with no issues
the new rotella has less zink than it used to have because the commies in cali made them reduce it for emissions. google it. my son and i used it in vws and also my flat tappet sbcs.
bypasses always leak a little, if they're poorly made they leak alot all the time. Ford hasnt run oil filter bypasses in their engines since the 60s
you should review the Fram HP series oil filters they seam well made, baldwin seams to be a great filter too..
I do have a cut apart fram hp filter somewhere! They are built pretty good too but they have this plastic internal bypass im not too fond of
So you are saying that a Fram HP for a SBC Chevy will give you a second filter byass in the filter itself.
@@hotrodray6802 I believe that there is a screen over the bypass so that if it bypasses the oil still goes through a screen. I got a well used one at home I'll have to cut open in a couple weeks. Then we will know for sure..
That's pretty bizarre. A little off the topic but this reminded of it. I bought a built 327 once from a personal friend and built by a local reputable machine shop. Started it up and was breaking it in when Kaboom ! Oil filter (brand new )blown off engine. The engine sat in heated house for 25 plus years. Has anyone encountered the same problem ? I found the answer after tearing into it.
Pressure relief valve stuck closed on the oil pump?
what did you find out? was the oil pump valve stuck?
@@cuttersperformancehad it happen to me brand new gm high-performance pump. That was in 1975, checked them ever sence before installing.
The adapter bypass opens when cold, and at high RPM. Any time you see more than 5psi drop through the filter its open.
High oil pressure due to filter restriction is not good, most people check pressure after the filter, so they may not see the high pressure before the filter. You put more load (wear) on the timing chain, cam bearings, distributor drive gear, run the risk of shearing the oil pump drive shaft.
Oil quantity is more important than oil quality thats why they put the 5psi bypass in em.
And onto the subject of fram filters.
The PH5 base offering is garbage, but thats why it's cheap. The XG5 is actually a pretty good filter for commuter smallblocks not running crazy oil pressures. The fiber end caps do not concern me, its easier to glue filter paper to fiber board than it is to glue filter paper to steel.
I've been blocking bypass on hotrods for a few years now and its very common with any race engine. But my truck is the first daily that I've plugged. So far I've haven't noticed any difference in oil pressure hot or cold (even freezing out), no damage to oil filter inside or out. I've run filters with internal bypass and without.
No bypass is not for everyone and I don't recommend for most people with daily drivers but alot of guys do it with no issues
I guess at the end of the day, if guys always keep good clean oil in the engine then none of this should be an issue
Cheers! 🏁 🏎
Did you cut the pickup apart to see where it got through?
Are we talking strictly built by pass filters or also separate by pass systems suck as Franz ?
Have you tried swapping out the spring with a stiffer one?
I have not
But you can use a oil filter with a bypass if you worried about your filter plugging
The built in oil filter bypass will typically bypass higher pressure than the one on the block
Great video mate. Never understood bypass side effects till now. One question, I have a 87 Chev 350 single rear main seal with factory oil cooler lines. I'm removing all those cooler lines and going back to the Gen1 SBC oil filter style. There is some sort of thick adapter connecting the 2 cooler lines that needs to be removed. What do I need to buy after I've removed the cooler lines and adapter? Cheers
All you'll need is a standard sbc oil filter adapter and new bolts
@@cuttersperformance Ok sir thank you.
@@cuttersperformance I want to talk a little bit about the bypass valve which you deleted. While it makes sense to have it deleted for the reasons stated, but all those cars in the early years ran for up to 250-350,000 miles with those factory bypass setup and never had issues as long as the oils/filter were changed every 3,000miles/5,000kms. So why the fear now?
@hmayerv8 you absolutely can run one but when running a freshly rebuilt engine with thicker oil that bypass is going to open. During break-in, there can/will be metal in the oil from the cylinder cross hatch breaking-in. You can block the bypass and swap out for a bypass adapter after break in of you wish. Or you can run a bypass the whole time if you'd like. If it's a flat tappet cam, I highly recommend not running a bypass just in case a lobe goes flat. It will most likely save the engine from a complete rebuild.
@@cuttersperformance Noted mate. In this case it's a 1987 SBC roller cam/lifters.
I always thought that shimmering in the oil of my newly built engines came from the bearing, tire my 355 down for a freshen-up after 7yrs of abuse and the crosshatch was still there.
Alot of people think its bearing material in the oil during break in, but the reality is that bearings don't "break in." What your seeing is the high spots of the cross hatch wearing down as the rings seat.
You will hear that we are "wearing in" the rings during break-in, but its more like we are wearing in the cylinder with the rings.
@@cuttersperformance so after honing with a 240 grit stone if you use a 400 or 500 grit stone to remove the very top of the new scratches from the 240 grit would there be less shimmer? i think its called plateauing the finish?
if you do not have an external oil cooler should you have an oil filter bypass?
I just rebuild my motor and I pulled out all of them little clips from my lifters are they supposed to stay in the lifters?
Thats a April fools joke?
@cuttersperformance no I really did pull them out
@@cuttersperformance I have not started it yet because I'm still building it
@Clawson_customs youll want to put those clips back in. If you were to ever float the valves or loose preload the lifter will come apart inside your engine
@cuttersperformance OK I didn't know if they were suppose to stay or not because I couldn't pump them in oil they was stiff so I took one out and then they pump up much more easily so I did it for all of them
Thanks!
I'm going to have say that the reading the lifter clip cam out is because it broke up in the valley, then some of it could possibly get thru the screen ,but in one piece there is no way it made it thru the screen ,the hooked ends would not let it thru in one piece. If it did some how get thru the screen in one piece I don't believe it would fit thru the pickup tube to get to the pump. To close I would say the oil pump didn't have pinned gears to the shaft so if it made it to there it would have locked the gears up and spun the oil shaft or blown the powered gears apart . Just my common sense thinking ,
I cant really say exactly what happened but all i know is the clip some how got past the screen in one or two pieces. I know this because the oil pump gears had the imprint of the clip on the rotors. It then looked like the clip broke up in the pump, a chunk wedge the oil filter bypass and held it open and the other pieces went through into the engine instead of being caught in the filter. The engine ran and had oil pressure (lower than normal as the bearings were destroyed)
Like I said in the video, i wouldn't believe it if i didn't see it with my own eyes.
I wish i still had the oil pump with the imprint of the clips in the rotors
too much weed
I have a 95 trans am LT1 seems to drop oil pressure at high rpm wot pulls, also seems to have barely any oil in the filter between oil changes. Any input would be GREATLY appreciated. I bought the car done back in 07 I would assume the engine has been out as it is cammed. I tried changing the oil filter bypass and that did not seem
to change anything. Have yet to put a mechanical gauge on it... right around 20 psi maybe a little less at hot idle 1,000 rpm. Any help would be great thanks!
What happens at wot? Goes up then drops down? Whats the pressure at wot?
@@cuttersperformance correct I would say like 20 psi at wot, its hard to say cause the gauge moves so frequently. All I can think is maybe there is a HV pump sucking the pan dry and maybe messing with the bypass or the pickup tube fell off..
@@dragin79 have you tried adding a extra quart of oil over "full" and seeing if there's are difference? 20 psi at wot is very low
@@cuttersperformance I will for sure try that. I run the deeper truck filter, any idea how many quarts that will be total over filled? Stock pan. Also what would cause the filter to be close to empty between oil changes?
Stock lt1 takes about 5 quarts. So you may need to put 6 or 6.5 of you want to over fill it.
I can't wrap my head around no or little oil in the filter, because the fact that you have any oil pressure tells me the filter is full. The oil pump feeds directly to the filter before the rest of the engine so to show any pressure it would have to be full
Are there different types of adapters or just one with and without the bypass?
Mostly bypass or no bypass. Then you have the older style stock ones and the ones for oil coolers
Allstar sells a billet style adapter (no bypass) Dave at ACADIAN PERFORMANCE
I have actually seen an oil pump that one of these clips went through
A lot of guys don't believe it! Its wild
There is no good reason to block off the filter bypass. Because in all positive cases (such as the filter is clean, the filter can flow enough, the oil is warm, bearing clearances are tight, oil flow volume is low etc) the bypass is closed and in all negative cases the bypass saves your bearings by ensuring they get enough volume of oil.
the bypass always lets oil through even with a clean filter.
Moroso 2 qt filter , personally I run wix on dailys , hotrods I use a System1 filter .
Think about it. Assume an oil pump is making 30 psi. Now, with the motor shut off you have zero pressure in the oil passages and filter. When you start the engine 30 psi (or more) will hit the filter but you still have zero pressure in the oil passages. That bi-pass spring IS NOT capable of holding 30 psi so it will open up until the pressure builds up on both sides of the bi-pass. With an equalized pressure on both sides, then the spring in the bi-pass can do its job. So basically, your bi-passing EVERY TIME you start the engine. Especially, if it's cold.
Feel free to test the spring if you don't believe me
yes but my thinking is the volume is more than the bypass alone can pass so there is more oil left over still for the bearings and rockers.
@@charleswittmer2477 Depends on the engine, of course
You ought to do a oil filter comparison video.. wow have things changed for the worse. Some filters have been “discontinued “ and their “replacements” are way, way smaller.. like the old school long 2 quart fram PF-373... the replacement is At least 60-70% smaller. I wouldn’t have believed until they brought the replacement to the counter. Sad indeed.
Yeah I think I should too
I will start collecting different brands of filters and I will do a comparison
Let me know what you want to see
Wix and napa filters are the same, carquest used to be made by wix but is now made by Baldwin.
When it comes to choosing filters if you use a wix, napa, carquest, Baldwin, Donaldson, fleetguard and cat then you will be getting all of the highest quality filters available, all the other filters are going to be at alot lower quality and questionable, however on certain engines it is advised to use a oem filter, I have seen on Ford 5.4 liters and chevy equinox engines the orange rubber ring in the top of the filter coming apart and getting pushed through the engine and plugging oil galley port inside the block and starving parts of the engine for oil.
The main thing I see is a dirty engine also if you don't have the valves adjusted right lifters going to come apart dirty engine people complain about FRAM oil filters not being the best yeah they're better filters what Fram filter does a good job for what it is by the way there's two bypasses once in the pickup tube and one is in the oil filter housing
Oil filters have built in bypass for cold weather startups.
Is it needed? I run my truck all year round, freezing temps in the winter and always have instant oil pressure. Just food for thought
I run no bypass in northern Canada -40 400 small block 10 30 no problem WIx 1060 .. I build engines on a regular basis and they all get filter bypass delete
Heck yeah 🇨🇦
Leave the OEM oil filter adapter in place on any SBC that is not a max effort race engine.
AC Delco filters are shit now they had metal inserts now they have a plastic basket like super tech I been using Wix from O'Reilly's
Why would anyone consider not having a filter. For any reason
Hi thanks for the video. I have been having an issue with my sbc, 81 malibu w/ 350. The hot oil pressure drops to 12 to 15 psi at idle after a running it on the street for 20 minutes. I disconnected the aftermarket oil cooler to see if the improved the hot oil pressure at idle, maybe a small change but not much. My late brother did the build, I assume he knew his stuff but I cannot ask him at this point. Is the bypass always blocked when using an aftermarket cooler and filter relocate? I took a pic of the oil filter adapter but it is hard to tell from my pic. I was thinking of buying a new adapter from summit to see if it will help with my op. And did you say that there is no gasket there? Also, the rabbit hole that led me here was the question of oil viscosity. To go with 10w40, 30 hd or 20w50, seems like everyone has a different answer. And the best thermostat for a street beater, 160, 180, 195 or open. I am leaning towards a 180 to hopefully add a couple psi and trying hd 30 valvoline vr1 with a kn filter. I believe the block is a 350 four bolt with a single piece rear seal. They say my oil pressure is fine for that motor. I would like to see 25 to 30 at hot idle. So hope I didnt get to far off topic, they always act weird when I do that at aa...best. Ps, any advice on hot oil pressure at idle would be welcome,
Could be cam bearings were groved when installing cam shaft, the distributor gear on the end of the cam can easily Grove the bearings, letting oil out, lowering oil pressure.
a motor only needs 10psi for each 1000rpms so at 750rpms less than ten psi but still more is mobeta. actually more pressure means more used up hp to drive the pump and the more oil bypassed the more heat so the oil gets hotter. over 250 degrees the oil breaks down and needs to be replaced soon.
@@williepelzer384 i have seen builders that have a new cam that is too tight in the new bearings bore use a old cam with grooves cut in the journals broach the new bearings out to free up the new cam. some builders say the cam bores were not true from the factory. thats why shops blueprint motors to get everything the best it can be.