SDPC Tech Tips: Big Block Chevy Oil Filter Bypass
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- Опубликовано: 13 сен 2024
- Nick goes over the Chevy big block with one important, albeit, tiny detail!
When using a Big Block from a truck, boat or other vehicle that had the plumbing in place for an oil cooler, some people might encounter a low oil pressure reading on their gauge.
#SDPC #SDPCRaceshop #TechsualHealing #BigBlockChevy
Thanks for clarification. I've too many remove and don't remove videos was very hesitant. Now from yall I trust your opinion thanks alot.
I took the inner one out on my 502 and actually blocked the ‘red’ one with a dime or a nickel or something. My 502 is actually a 540, I spin it 7500 on occasion and it holds pressure just fine. This video would have been nice about 5 years ago!
Built many Mark IV's, just got a 19170538 454 HO block to build from you. This is exactly the answer to my question. I know your a GM dealer and your info is accurate. One bypass valve, just out from center hole and I'm done. Thanks
If you remove the bypass valve in the center, drain back will occur and you will have dry starts. Removing the outer valve and plugging the hole in the block will keep unfiltered oil from circulating thru the motor
Man thank you so much🙏🏾💯
Very good explanation ! Thanks
I removed the bypass vale your talking about. I have blown the o ring seal out 3 times in a natter of 1 minute run time. two wix filters and 1 cheap filter. Why???????????? Sjhould I put the by pass valves back in? Thanks
I did the exact same thing , instaled a hvp oil pump pressure is 75 80 cold 25 30 hot never problem
At 4:09 you said you hoped you explained the issue. You didn’t explain anything at all. Why is the oil relief valve in the middle of the filter outlet? Is it a high pressure bypass? You really need a diagram to show how the oil circuits route the oil. After watching other videos, I see how it works. The center relief valve is a relief valve that lets oil bypass the oil cooler if it stops up. Since the oil cooler passages are plugged you’re causing ALL of the oil to go through the relief valve which is too small and restrictive so yes the center valve MUST be removed if not running an oil cooler. It’s not due to too many 90 degree turns, it’s that the main path for oil is blocked with pipe plugs. As for the the relief valve off center, that one needs to stay or you’ll be allowing unfiltered oil to bypass the filter and go directly into the engine. Your readers need to know this information so that they don’t just assume taking them both out is better than just one.
You seem knowledgeable and I am building a late model gen 6 bbc. Do you know what lb. relief valve goes in that off center hole?
Low oil pressure make your blood pump stop.
Great video I spend my bearings because of that valve till I talk to an old timer I use the 9/16 bolt threaded it up in the valve and pulled it out. But there is no video at the time thanks again
What do you do with the 30lb valve thats in your hand?..
I have a 1997 c2500 suburban with the 454 and blew an oil cooler line for the second time, this thing has 75psi cold for the last 80k that I've had it. Blows the cooler hoses right apart where the metal gets swedged onto the hose
Gonna bypass them cooler lines now.......
the best oil pressure is with a drill and a priming shaft, 20 psi at the oil filter, at the back of the block 15psi, putting the distributor in, and cranking with no spark plugs 0 pressure, help!! Mark V block with a 70 psi pump
Am I understanding that the valve you removed from the engine block is an oil filter bypass valve? Does the oil filter for the big block Chevy engine have a bypass valve in it?
Some,not all filters, have bypass valves. You could be confusing the oil filter drain back valve with a bypass valve?
@@milomanx6531 yes, there is a difference. The drain back valve blocks the inlet holes. The bypass, if there is one, is at the other end and bypasses the filter media. Some engine blocks have a built in bypass valve.🙂
Can I still run my oil cooler with the oil filter adapter to change the direction of the filter
Gen 4 454 4 bolt main, looking to get the oil cooler to get to work, the oil cooler stays cool to the touch? Motor is fine pressure is good. Temps are ok, but I’m still having a cool oil cooler, it gets fluid but doesn’t seem to get hot or warm? My block doesn’t accommodate that pressure valve? The shop is looking at it now for a second opinion. Thanks in advance
Having same issue on Gen V.. Did you manage to sort it out eventually?
My goodnnss man. Just show us how to have it set with and without the oil cooler , keep it simple
Bloodviking
Reply Can I take the bypass on the outer side out and plug it like on a gin 4 you can buy a oil filter adapter without a bypass
Why can't you show the actual bypass on the engine. Is it on the engine or on the filter? Thanks.
Good Video, What about the oil filer bypass on a Mark IV? Will it bypass at what pressure?Does it bypass ONLY when the oil filter is plugged? Thanks
No, It also opens when oil pressure is high. That keeps from blowing the filter apart.
Question, do I have to take the bypass valve out above the filter? Why not just plug the cooler ports and leave it in??
I would leave it in. If you remove it you will be applying a band aid to the low oil pressure at idle after a hard run especially on marine engines. Removing it allows the filtered oil to return almost a straight shot to oil galleys and not forced to make 4 90 deg turns thru blocked off oil cooler ports on the pan rail. The main reason for low oil pressure at idle after a hard run is not the 4 90 deg turns but due to high oil temps. There is a reason Chevy cast cooler ports cast into the block. I have a 502 in a 24' boat with an oil cooler and oil temps have hit 250 deg on a long run at wide open throttle. Yes my oil pressure alarm goes off when I hit a no wake zone and have to idle but goes away pretty quick. Yes I need a bigger oil cooler. However by removing the center bypass the cam galleys will have a straight pass to drain back to the pan allowing for dry cam bearings and valve train on start up. I would rather have oil in the galleys since my boat may sit for weeks and moths at a time. Hope this helps.
@@nunya5891 do you have turbos on your boat.
@@filitamayo Nope. Naturally aspirated
Thanks! Do you still sell a part that installs in the cooler line ports and diverts 100% of the oil to the cooler ? What part number if so?
Would a sandwich style oil cooler adapter in the filter boss also divert all the oil to the cooler?
Thanks again
I'm wondering the same thing. What did you end up doing?
Ran into this issue, I have a fresh built gen 6 with a high volume pump and cold it’s 50-75psi but when hot (180) it’s goes down to 25-30. Hopefully this solves my issue
It's been 3 months. What happened?
That good oil pressure whats problem
Cranking over the oil pump with a drill. The drivers side lifters pump up. Lifters on the passenger side DO NOT pump up. Any I dea's? By the way great vidio. Help me alot. Thanks
When priming the big block, the driver side will prime faster than the passenger side. It does help to rotate the engine over and it should eventually get there.
I did stop with the drill and cranked the motor over a little and 1 lifter has p[umped up so far on the passenger side. I'll keep going. Thanks
Prime the engine for 5 minutes, turn 180 degrees and prime again. Do this four times. Problem solved!
I have a gen 6 454 that has a tick a idle after it warms up it’s not a filter but it comes and goes I can’t seem to figure it out
I think they all do mine does same thing after hot normal noise been doing it for 3000 k miles now no problems
I recently rebuilt gen 5 454, i replaced the oil pump with a shaft with steel sleeve, pistons, crank mainsand rod bearings replaced, blocck was hot tanked. After start up we are getting 80 lbs psi but no oil to the valves?
I have this problem, too. But
i see no responses from the original poster.
The oil won’t flow up there until it’s thin and warm. It may take 5 minutes before you see it coming through the pushrods.
119👍's guys thanks for sharing
Can you run turbo supply and return though the oil cooler lines .
That is not recommended. You need the turbo oil draining freely and not into a pressurized stream.
@@Sdpartscenter what are you useing for supply, so basically just weld a drain on the oil pan for the drain
3/ 8 ? Bolt screw it in pull out simple as that