This Fatal Flaw Will Affect Millions of Honda Owners: ruclips.net/video/wvG9MAwJRbA/видео.html Thanks for watching! Like and Subscribe for More Vids Daily ► ruclips.net/channel/UCuxpxCCevIlF-k-K5YU8XPA ⬇️Scotty’s Top DIY Tools: 1. Bluetooth Scan Tool: amzn.to/2nfvmaD 2. Mid-Grade Scan Tool: amzn.to/33dKI0k 3. My Fancy (Originally $5,000) Professional Scan Tool: amzn.to/31khBXC 4. Cheap Scan Tool: amzn.to/2D8Tvae 5. Dash Cam (Every Car Should Have One): amzn.to/2YQW36t 6. Basic Mechanic Tool Set: amzn.to/2tEr6Ce 7. Professional Socket Set: amzn.to/2Bzmccg 8. Ratcheting Wrench Set: amzn.to/2BQjj8A 9. No Charging Required Car Jump Starter: amzn.to/3i7SH5D 10. Battery Pack Car Jump Starter: amzn.to/2nrc6qR ⬇️ Things used in this video: 1. Common Sense 2. 4k Camera: amzn.to/2HkjavH 3. Camera Microphone: amzn.to/2Evn167 4. Camera Tripod: amzn.to/2Jwog8S 5. My computer for editing / uploading: amzn.to/301tYt9 🛠Check out the tools I use and highly recommend ► goo.gl/rwYt2y Subscribe and hit the notification bell! ► goo.gl/CFismN
It used to be thought the first oil/filter change was the most important and done at 2500 to 3000 miles. Was / is that "street legend' valid in the day and is it valid now ?
I like how you incorporate automotive history into the content of your videos. The best elements of your videos, however, are the colorful illustrations and the brillant animations - makes understanding difficult concepts easy and fun!!!
The game changer oil filters have been around for at least since 1953 when John Frantz figured that oil should stay clean and oil filters should get dirty. Made sence to me. Didnt make sense to the oil changers. John Frantz thought what is the best oil filter available. Of course its cellulose. Where do you find high quality cellulose. Of course toilet paper.. Here come the liars and fools. They all think the fools will shut up if they get away from toilet paper. That won't work some of us have used toilet paper for over 60 years and dont drain oil.
@@captaindeadpool1640 I cannot imagine ANY oil will stay stable for 20,000 miles!! Does your vehicle have a built-in refinery or something?? Even car companies that recommend 10,000 mile intervals are dreaming, unless your car holds 10-15 quarts of oil! Most hold 3 or 4 quarts these days with the tiny engines they use..
I found it funny that Scotty thanked me for my support. It’s me who needs to thank Scotty every time he shares a video with us. Thank you Scotty. And a thousand thank you for all the content I watch and all the help he has given me.
I just finished a complete engine overhaul on my 1973 ford f350 crew cab. It started it life at Erie Mining Co. I bought the truck with less than 14,000 miles on it and then I grafted a 3.5 ton Ford dully to it to turn it into a inclosed car hauler. It weights 11,000 lbs empty, and at 75,000 miles I removed the engine and did the rebuild. I have 52 years of experience in the racing engine business so the rebuild was nothing new for me. I did oil and filter changes at 2000 miles, and also changed the OIL in the OIL BATH air filter. When I did the the tear down the engine had no cylinder wear at all, but the most amazing thing was, that when I removed the oil pan, it looked like NEW inside. I really believe most of this was because of the OIL BATH air cleaner.
Scotty - I actually got into working on my own cars and discovered your channel as a result of a botched oil change. The shop did not remove the oil canister gasket ring on my wife's 2011 camry and just added a second one over the existing gasket and this caused a slow leak over 2 days which eventually left my wife and I stranded in the pocono mountains when the engine shut off. Fortunately the engine had no damage since this was a few years ago now but since then I learned how to do all maintenance on my own vehicles with the help of your videos of course! I now have full confidence knowing basic maintenance is being done with quality parts and quality work that will last.
And that's exactly why I check the old filter for its gasket after I spin it off. If it aint there, it's still on the engine! Also, why I wipe the contact surface, then wet the filter ring on the new filter with clean oil. Makes a tighter seal, and more likely for ring seal to come off with the filter, when the time to change that filter comes due.
I did that on a '55 Buick, in the 70s. Did not see the oil gasket stuck inside. Caught it in the garage after start up.... lots of oil on the floor! So be extra careful with canister type filters.
Scotty: The oil filter is like the white "rev up your engines" coffee cup I bought from you. When I don't clean the cup, the old cofee gets sludgy and leaves brown stains at the bottom. Fresh coffee just doesn't taste fresh; kind of like adding new motor oil to your car but not changing the filter. When I clean it and pour fresh coffee into the cup, my internal engine revs up and I'm good to go. God bless and hope you enjoyed the story. Keep up the great work. Tom Ross Houston, Tx
Scotty, I have used super tech filters since at least 25 years,best buy, best fiter,best deal and Still it is SAME WITh SUPERTECH SYNTHETIC OIL.Rated high in all test.Wal-mart has best prices. Thats my Story and Sticking to IT. ,Great show.
As a young man, I had my oil changed at an oil change chain. They changed the oil and filter. However when installing the replacement filter they damaged the valve inside the filter. This didn't effect the oil flow at idle or low speeds, but when at high excelleration and speed it was starving the engine of oil. I first noticed this when the oil light flickered while getting on the highway. A full inspection and oil change corrected the issue I've never gone back to a discount oil change place since.
I miss your excitement. I've always been impressed by your ability to get me excited about what ever your video is about... Not complaining this is very polished and professional.
When I worked on US Army helicopters, the T700 GE engines had three filtration systems that cleaned the oil down to 3 microns (if memory serves.) Many claimed that this thorough filtration made the oil cleaner than when it left the can new. Because we used a local lab to analyze the various component fluids, we rarely changed them/when the lab recommended it. To the naked eye, the oil samples that we submitted looked pristine.
A lot of the issues was with the oil bowsers and contamination in the bowsers. I went to a manufactures meeting once ( I was Navy AMT 20 years and 30 Civilian) manufacture swore it is always better to "Punch and Pour" vs using a bowser.
dear Duranbailiff5337: -Thanks for your service. Wouldn't the high heat from the GEs break-down even synthetic carbon-chains, so the fluids might be LOOK "Pristeen" but be smaller, so the bearing clearances would, over time, diminish, leading to main-rotor Failure, and the copter dropping like a stone. I told my "Stup-peeriors" 40 years ago to put a rocket-deployable 'chute on top of the main rotor[s], on top of the radar some times put on the rotor-top, just to keep the copter from turning into a "safe" thrown from a plane, due to ANY reason, but the Military perfumed-princes don't CARE if we grunts...or even "Prezi-dunces" git kilt in the demmed fall!
We use Wix and Motorcraft as some of us have been training on oil, fuel , air filters! You would be surprised what’s in some filters or lack of filter media
I remember once going to a really good auto parts store and the filter they gave me which just felt totally different than any other filter especially the weight but they gave me a Hastings oil filter and it seemed like it was a good quality I wonder how good they're supposed to
I really like the K&N filters with the hex-nut welded on the end ... it has made changing the oil filter SO MUCH EASIER on several of my cars / trucks that have very hard-to-reach oil filter locations ... they have become the ONLY filter I will buy. (and they are of very durable, high-quality materials also !!).
Oil filters should not be put on by gorilla's!!! They "should" be easily removed using an appriate tool. Unfortuneatly, many 7/11 oil change shops tighten them down like they are lugnuts! One brand, the one that begins with a "F" uses some grippy material adheareard to the can to make it not much of a chore to R&R the filter can. -As for their filters, I as an above average consummer, can only assume they meet or exceed the manufactures specs...
Hey, Scotty! I have considered myself to be a pretty fair "backyard" and "hot rod" mech-guy for over a quarter century now and I'm always impressed that I learn one or two things (minimum) from each of your vids! I have my adult sons follow you too because frankly, your advice/information is ALWAYS better/more complete than mine! A big "Thank you" to you, Mr. Kilmer! Please keep doing that thing you do - for the benefit of ALL of us mech wannabe's! Cheers, good sir!
I have a 2012 Chevy Suburban with the 5.3 L v8. I have had it since 66000 mi and it has 110000 now. I have changed the oil at the mileage from the vehicle mileage countdown meter. Oil and filter was the "specials" from the local parts shop. I was seeing lowering oil pressure readings over time down to the point that it would alarm < 15 lb. I was going the tear it apart to replace the pump. On a lark i changed to a better quality oil filter and shazam, no oil pressure issues at all anymore. I will always buy the best quality filter they have now. Thanks for the info about the better filtering filters with high flow.
When I was an owner operator truck driver, I used to run a bypass oil filter system of the tractor. The advantage was you kept the oil cleaner and used oil analysis to tell you when it was time to change the oil and not a set mileage schedule. So normally, I could go 150-200k miles before actually needing to change the oil (just for comparison at that time, normal oil change intervals on heavy duty highway diesels was between 25-50k miles). The added bonus to oil analysis is you will be able to catch small issues before they become large ones that lead to catastrophic engine damage. Things like coolant leaking or fuel dilution will show up as will signs of incomplete combustion, not to mention engine wear that is normal throughout the lifespan on an engine.
I have a Mazda spin on bypass filter on the shelf. It is for a Mazda diesel pickup early 1980s. My guess it is pleated paper.Why does a pleated paper bypass filter clean oil better than a pleated paper full flow filter ? Answer It has an orifice.the slower the flow the better the cleaning. Why was it removed from the Mazda. To make room for a Frantz oil cleaner.. you cant clean oil with pleated filters. It takes depth. The Frantz has depth. 4 inches will always beat 1/32 inch. My Rambler American came new from the factory with a pleated paper bypass filter. The way I got clean oil was to remove it and install a Frantz oil cleaner. Sound like a Frantz dealer. Haven't used them in years. Better designed filters have came and gone. When you stop selling them you lose track of them. All I have now is Gulf Coasts and Motor Guards. I'm curious about the Jackmaster of Austrailia. Some Australian's use toilet paper in them. I like the tee handle and top loaders.
Those were the “good old days”. Diesel and gas engines suffer from oil dilution and contamination caused by emission control systems. A Bypass filter is still a good idea. Oil change intervals should be determined by oil analysis if you want to go beyond 5000 miles.
Good information as usual. My son changed the oil filter on our boat (350 Olds.) The filter is on the back bottom where you can just reach the filter but cannot see it. The old filter gasket stayed on the engine and distorted under the new filter. Nothing we could see. We always observe the engine on our first time out for water leaks or other issues. In this case we pumped out quarts of oil into the boat, shut it down and returned home. Rest of family not happy. He nor I will ever “not check” for the old gasket ever again.
I only use OEM oil filters on my chevy 5.3 Its made for the oil weight ,pressure bypass rating, and micron requirements for my engine . Aftermarket filters are made to cover many applications and might create more wear on the engine.I have changed my own oil and always used OEM filters all my life and never had to go into an engine for repairs.(And i ONLY drive GM vehicles).
except GM doesn't manufacture their filters, someone like WIX or Bosch does- and they also make other brands. There's only a very few cos.that make all filters, with different names..
Scotty, don't forget to remind folks to check tightness of the oil filler cap and dip stick! Both have o-ring seals that may leak and after 15 years my o-ring went flat and set off codes that were not easily solved! Aha! I found the air vacuum leak! It was the oil cap! Code instantly went off and hasn't returned since!
Talk about changing your oil filter...my auto teacher back in the day made the statement..."well, you change your underwear after taking a shower, don't you, so change your oil filter!"
Dee Gee, you actually really change your underwear after every shower?? Damn, if your showering everyday, isn't your underwear good for at least a week replacement interval?? I mean all things being relative, it's the mileage between change intervals and less soaps/detergents and fabric softeners will help the Environment! Ohhh, an don't play wit dat dipstick too much as you shower the engine.
Very thorough and informative video. If a person has the time and basic mechanical ability to change their own oil then I recommend it. Why? One, you have the time to let that oil drain as long as you want to. That means more bad oil out. Two, and this may sound ate up, but it helps you connect with your vehicle. It becomes more than just a piece of equipment that gets you to and from work. Lastly, you can make sure it’s done correctly. Filter gasket removed and new one lubricated. Filter and drain plug not over tightened. Properly check for leaks afterward. Remove and reinstall access panels correctly.
I am amazed by Scotty's efforts and dedication to make such illustrating (and good) animation videos that perfectly show with images what he says in words. Keep it up Scotty tells 👍👍
The pictures say the full flow filter removes 100% of the contamination on the first pass.. In reality almost all contamination is too small for the full flow filter to remove. Not even the Mazda bypass filter on my diesel pickup could clean the oil. I had to remove it and install a Frantz oil cleaner to get the oil clean. They say the bypass or secondary filter cleans 10 % of the oil. In reality the Frantz or other toilet paper filters clean 100% of the oil several times on a trip. The full flow filter is there to get the big stuff. Oil changes or depth filters are there for the small stuff. It's not rocket science.
I use Amsoil for everything, 2015 Ram 1500 (116 miles), Coleman mini bike, whole house generator, sport bikes. It's more expensive but everything seems to run smoother and oil maintains viscosity.
I noticed a design change with mine last time I bought a mobil one... and the timing chain rattle was gone on my toyota with the new design ;) It came back only a year later with older oil
Great information Scotty. Always change your filter with the oil change using 100% synthetic oil and the manufactured recommended weight every 3-5k miles and your engine will love you, and we love Scotty.👍🏻
I own a 1961 Cessna and that engine came with just an oil screen that you would wash on every oil change. Later on a spin on oil filter adapter was added to the engine as a FAA approved modification. Oil changes on the engine occurs every 25 hours of engine operation and you change the filter on the 50th hour ( every other oil change) it’s SOP.
I've been watching a heck of a lot of oil-filter videos recently -- I'm glad to see a heavy-hitter take them on. If anyone is curious. Mobil-1 oil-filter seems to be better than FRAM or SuperTech, and in some ways better than K&N. The channel I watched most recently didn't get into Wix or NAPA-Gold. A channel I watched long ago had actual surface rust inside of the FRAM when he cut it open, and that turned me off of FRAM pretty much permanently.
The last time i ever let someone else change my oil they had the same filter on it that i had on the car when I showed up. I will never let a shop change my oil again.
I take my cars to my mechanic for oil change. I buy the correct oil and filter and take it to him. He charges me a minimum because I let him do all my maintenance.
amen to that. I have seen these clowns overfill the oil, and tighten the oil filter and plug so tight you need vice grips and a cheater bar to get plug off, or have to puncture the filter and pry it back off. I don't trust any of them, that's why I do it myself. Especially the quik-lube places, they are paying flunkies near minimum wage to do oil changes on your car- and they don't know or care about your car. Even at a dealership, it's not the top mech that's changing your oil, it's the newbie...
When I worked in a full service Standard Station it was sir you could use an oil change. Now its sir you could use a depth bypass filter. Filters that clean oil are not practical for a lot of people. The good ones all have oil lines. You have to understand the oil system. But if you want to escape the allowing the oil to get dirty wear and foul the engine then draining it system you need a depth bypass filter. Pleated paper doesnt do it.
@@ralphwood8818 well, it's done it for me for decades. I've never owned a car with mileage that didn't go >200k, and never had one damaged or had the heads off, using standard oil filters the whole time...
Agreed, inspection is important after the change and at the next gasoline fill. I've had 2 filters fail that didn't leak immediately; one with a painted-over pinhole, another installed with 2 o-rings. I also check engine oil before and after a change, especially if done by a shop. Before to see how much oil was used, after to make sure they filled the engine. I've had 4 in a 5 quart system and the other way around. Being down half a pint lets me know what to expect at the next oil check, instead of being worried.
I had a brand new car from a dealership that offered free oil change for three years. They put 5 qts. of oil in my car with a 4 qt.capacity. I don't trust any of them..
I have been using WIX oil filters for years . I worked at a shop were the owner got more out of his trucks than I had ever seen . He used WIX ,filled the filter with oil and changed the oil every 2,000 miles. So I did the same.
In modern engines there's very little 'dirt', particles in oil is actually wear metals! Once some steel wears of cams and the crankshaft these particles then wear aluminum from pistons, chromium from rings and lead from babbit main bearings, etc. How do I know? Oil analysis reports before and after show strong magnets were inserted on and in my spin-on oil filters. To get good results you need lots of magnets because engine oil is thick and moves fast thru the filter. At 8:24 Scotty claims magnetic filters don't work on aluminum, true, but when you reduce steel particles, the aluminum wear drops considerably. What's best, small or large oil filters? Turns out oil takes the shortest path thru a filter as soon as it enters, filter media at the mount plate of the filter sees the highest oil flow while the rest of the filter fills up, flow thru the media at the other end is far slower. Was I surprised to see this? Yes. Do I like large filters? Yes. It turns out it does not help. Look up the oil filter for a (C2 and up) Corvette, any Corvette, they are incredibly small! Mostly to fit a tightly packed engine, if there ever was a need for a large filter this is it, yet not so! My car? 2009 Impala, spin-on filter with 27 magnets (incl 2 FilterMags on the outside). Lead wear is < 1ppm!
what magnets do you use and where do you place them? Most neodymium magnets lose considerable magnetism when hot, so putting them in oil is bunk. Just curious about your ideas though
@@dansmith6990 Neodymium magnets lose a percentage of their magnetism depending on their curie point. Most w/ a curie point of 350F will lose about 20-30% at 200F and recover when cool. If they hit 350F they become non-magnetic. Magnets with higher curie points can be bought for much more $$. For a spin-on oil filter I use a pair of FilterMags on the outside, be sure there is enough room all the way around. Between them there's enough space for Neo bar magnets. Inside I place 2 bar mags down the tube seated opposite each other. Then on the filter threaded base I put small round neo disk mags on the steel between the oil holes. Been doing it for years now.
@@arlenmargolin1650 Yes, during an oil change I take all the mags off and clean. Once the oil is off the steel particles are stubborn, so I use damp tissue paper to move all material to one spot and 'pinch' it off. It takes a few minutes, but hey, TLC always gives good results.
I did some research on the reusable filters and I realise that this is the answer to saving the environment from all waste. The filter that spins over 3000 RPM not only removes particles down to 1 to five microns, it doesn’t restrict the flow at all. Your engine will last twice as long if not a lot longer than expected. Amazing, but manufacturers won’t come close to it because there modow is don’t fix just replace. $
I would have a very hard time believing there is such a filter. Eventually it's going to need cleaning or replacing. I don't fully trust the synthetic oil I use. My thoughts are sceptical at best. I take every scheduled maintenance of my vehicle very serious because I bought it used. I don't know what the inside looks like. Even though it was in top shape when I bought it in 2012. It had 186,000 on it then. 232,000 now. That 46,000 in 10 year's. Most of the time I drive less then 300 miles a month. Unless I visit friends out of State. I wish I could be convinced full synthetic oil was as advertised. I just don't buy it. I'm not going to ruin my motor just because someone says I can drive up to 7,000 miles on it. I change my filter everytime too. I don't trust mechanic's to work on my car anymore because I have been stung a lot in the past and cost me money instead of saving me $$.
That would be the Franz bypass filter that uses a roll of TP as the filter media. All of the motor eventually runs thru it where the dense TP captures the finest crud so the oil always remains clean. In theory one doesn't need to change the motor oil, just the TP with a quart of fresh oil to replace what's trapped inside the roll and renew the additives to the old oil.
Jackmaster claims their elements are better than toilet paper. That could be true. Their elements seem firmer than toilet paper.Ive used toilet paper since 1963 Too old to change now. Some of us are expert toilet paper squeezers. The Jackmaster element is a little firmer than the Scott 1000 or the Great value 1000 from Walmart. Im not driving a Lamborghini. Toilet paper has always worked for me.There was a time when I had to go to a janitorial supply store to get the best.
A few years ago I bought a new truck. I took it to the dealer at 3,000 miles to get the oil changed. They didn’t want to change my oil because the oil change light did not come on yet. I had to argue with them to get an oil change done. I couldn’t believe it. My opinion is that changing the oil and filter more often will help keep the engine in good condition for as long as possible.
I like to place magnets on my regular oil filters. When you cut them open there is usually a very fine particle pile in the shape of the magnetic flux lines. It's never much but always good to keep particles out of the oil. Magnets are cheap.
A lot of steel is much too small for the high volume full flow filter to remove.A magnet or many bypass type oil filters can remove it. Oil changers recommend draining the oil. For the last 60 years I have used depth bypass filters such as Frantz Motor Guard Gulf Coast and the Australian Jackmaster. My pristine engines have almost nothing in the oil large enough to be removed by the full flow filter. The Wix on my Pontiac has been on there about 4 years and 60,000 miles. No doubt it is still clean. I normally change the full flow filter every 2 years. The bypass depth filter is supposed to keep the full flow filter clean as well as the engine. Actually a game changer filter can only keep the oil clean. Clean oil can do a lot of things. I have the Australian Jackmaster Classic. As far as I know it is the easiest to service still in production. Push in the toilet paper and put on the lid. Similar to the Gulf Coast junior.
I have been using AMSOIL Synthetic oil & filters for over 40 years. Company recommended oil change 25.000 miles or one year. If you send them an oil sample you can go past that. One the road truckers, change the oil filters at 30,000 miles & replace the oil that was in the filters. They also send in an oil sample for analysis.
My favorite oil filter trick: using an oversized filter. More surface area, less impediment to flow. I drive a Saturn but when I'm buying a filter, I pretend it's a Dodge Neon SRT.
My AMSOIL by-pass filter cleaned all the way down to like 3 or 4 Microns! My diesel engine was still running at 300,000 miles, but getting parts for a 20 year old Iveco truck was almost impossible to find so I parked the 20 foot van and made a storage unit out of her. She ran on Ams Oil products for 20 years without problems...
Scotty should've mentioned the bypass oil filter. A bypass oil filter is the true game changer. Filters your oil down to extremely smaller particles than a standard oil filter can easily extend the life of your oil 20,000 miles or more. You'll find several cases where a person goes a million miles or more on the same oil, just doing regular filter changes and adding a little oil when needed. Granted, those vehicles are usually diesels that are doing that kind of mileage on no oil changes. Just regular filter changes. However, the effect will still greatly lengthen the lifespan of your oil in any vehicle.
Filters that clean oil have been around for 70 years. They are seldom mentioned. They started with a Frantz oil cleaner in 1953. My experience started in 1963 with a Frantz oil cleaner on my Rambler American. In 1961 Motor Guard came out with another one. They converted to compressed air filters. Gulf Coast filters came out with improved top loaders. Im told the Jackmaster came out in 1954 in Australia. Similar to the Gulf Coast junior it is made of high pressure die cast aluminum. I had to have one. Removed a Motor Guard to make room for it on the Pontiac Torrent. Should have ordered one years ago. Ordered the Classic model with no hoae and fittings.. Nothing wrong with the Motor Guard. They filter the same. The Motor Guard on the Ford 390 is 50 years old..Seems to be more interest in the game changer filters.
My dad added a secondary toilet roll oil filter system to our 1960 Volkswagen Kombi. Not sure how it would stack up today. But it was always pretty dirty when he swapped in a new roll about every 6 months. Cheap and effective. Anyone else remember them?
Yep, have seen and even used will not work on cars newer than around 1980...you see, those filters sometimes fail. Decomposing and shredding crap all over the inside of the engine...if not changed about every 1500 to 3000 miles ..and omg what a mess to change
Dad was on top of that, never had any issues. But toilet paper isn't the same now. It was a novel alternative which also added an extra 500mls of oil to the system.
I changed the toilet paper pretty often on the beetle. The engine was loaded with large engine damaging pieces of steel and probably aluminum. That would have been a good engine for both a full flow filter and the toilet paper filter. Dont know if full flow filters were available then. They are now.
Scotty you may have mentioned that if anybody pre fills their oil filter prior to installation it should be done through the small holes and not through the center hole
If you are pre-filling with new, fresh clean oil, what difference does it make? When you filled the crankcase with the new oil it has already run over the moving parts of the engine without that part of the oil being filtered.
@@ald8612 only as a precaution or if you are as picky as I am the filter filters from the outside to the center so if anything goes in from your container it will be caught in the filter
Scotty, I have always told people that the cheapest insurance you can buy to make your vehicle last longer is quality oil, oil filter, and air filter. Making sure to change them frequently is a must.
My dad taught me to do oil changes when I was around 12 years old. I've always done my own oil changes, except occasionally when I don't have time, etc. Just did one a couple of days ago
yeah, I learned the hard way to check, recheck, and check again, because in 15 degree weather here in TN when I was a teenager. I forgot to put the oil plug in my ford inline 6. I didn't know it didn't have any oil and drove 4 miles, ran outta gas and killed the battery on my way to work that evening. Me and my dad decided to put 1 qt of slick 50 and 4 qts of 20W50 Castrol GTX motor oil in it. Drove it another week, because the damage was already done, the motor was doing 4,000 to 5,000 ram and only going 5 mph. When I made it back home and cut it off it locked up. So, it's good to idea 💡 to always check, recheck and check again.
absolutely..there's no way I'm going to allow someone I don't know who doesn't care about my car to change my oil. It is not the top experienced mech changing oil, it's the youngest newbie in the shop..
@@land7776 understand, went with a friend to quick oil change place and salesman asked her if she wanted regular, part synthetic or full synthetic oil. Her owners manual said full 0w 20 full synthetic.
When removing the filter make sure the gasket comes off with the filter! I missed it once and my wife left with the car only to call me to say the oil light came on, but thankfully she pulled over immediately. I changed the filter beside a busy freeway and refilled the engine. There was no apparent damage. We were planning to trade the car and did so soon! I am 71 and have personally changed my oil since I was 16 except for one time when the dealer changed it and I had to remove the filter by driving a long screwdriver through it.. that was years ago, but enough to learn a lesson. I still enjoy doing most maintenance on my cars 😉👍
@@richardbauer3327 when a guy was telling me about doing it I thought it would be very rare. I see some filters have a gasket that is pretty much captive in the filter. I dont remember it as being trouble in a full service Standard station in the early 60s. Its mentioned a lot here.I remember a few that were leaking because of not oiling the gasket and it wrinkled.
I use to drive 20k mi a year most highway, and I would change synthetic oil every 14 k mi and oil filter every 7 k mi. Always supported by oil lab analyzed. And I had great results. Still have same VW diesel engine, but I I drive much less and don't see the need. I chane now every 14 month or so.
@@mopiktm9480 huh that makes it easy eh, I'm surprised more manufacturers don't do that. I suppose maybe just to keep the engine bay cleaner? Less chance of spilling oil? But then again the oil fill cap is in the engine bay, so... I'm at a loss
Yes Scotty, I had a Fram oil filter once and when I changed it, it was dry inside. No oil at all inside of it. I couldn't understand it. And the oil pressure light was never on.
I had the Franz oil filter where you insert a roll of toilet paper. Oil color was gold with every 5K oil change up to 150,000 miles when I finally sold the car.
@@OldBob2 Filters that dont clean oil are sold. Filters that clean oil are hawked. The Australian Jackmaster is a better filter than the Frantz or Amsoil. I think It came here to go with the Gulf Coast filters. I googled it. Lot of information. No more oil waste . Probably be going on military vehicles. Some Gulf Coast filters are showing up on military vehicles. Portable systems are being used also. The oil change racket will still be with us for a long time. Its deeply rooted like a religion. My opinion is the Gulf Coast junior on the Humvee was too small. I would have put the same filter that they put on the Army 5 ton The Gulf Coast 0 1.
Allison Transmission found most foreign debris was introduced during the oil change. Make sure the funnel is clean and anything else that might introduce debris into the engine. Stick refrigerator magnets around/to the outside of the filter. Clean or change the PCV Valve that also keeps the oil clean and is overlooked by most. As the miles get higher the oil change interval should be shortened. I run a Synthetic oil and have 281K miles on a 2010 Acura MDX, original engine and transmission. Something to consider.
Great video Scotty ! This video explains it all. I perform my own oil changes and always use a new filter. I also write the date and mileage on the oil filter with a felt pen so that I can check when the next oil change is due. I also write that information on the oil filter box top and put it in the glove box.
Thank you Scotty, from now on I will stop buying the cheapest filter I can find and pay attention to the quality and type of filter material. I gotta keep that '99 Camry running!
I bought my 2013 f150 used.. and when i checked the oil it had 3 1/2 quarts out of the 7.7 needed ! after a well needed flush i use the Motorcraft filter and it's full synthetic oil.. i usually change it around 5k miles
Awesome presentation Scotty --- In the past I was all over the map with filters until I watched a comparison of filters and their breakdown and construction. That comparison was eye-opening.I highly recommend watching it. Just google oil filter comparisons. I now use Wix exclusively and believe it to be the absolute best. An inventor of the spin-on filter named Mr. Wicks was mentioned in your presentation and I'm wondering if there is a connection. Pretty sure I've heard you mention Wix filters before Scotty and wouldn't be surprised if you use them yourself.
My cars have thrived high mileage by using Mobil1 Extended service oil filters and oil. Good for 20k miles. I change them out at 7-10k miles. 95% highway driving. Great products
Hi. I think Scotty made a content mistake at 05:45. How can a synthetic oil filter be effective at 24%? Correct me if am wrong? But isn't the synthetic one suppose to be a higher end than the cellulose one?
yeah i think i'm gonna keep changing mine i have a 98 Chevy S10 that runs like new. i've kept it that way by doing PM regularly. put that in your dipstick.
@3:11 known as Wix oil filters. The only filters I will use. If you use Fram, you do not care about your engine. Fram is garbage. Napa Gold filters are rebranded Wix ones. Love the calm explanation Scotty.
..and yet there's no evidence that Fram filters damage engines or don't filter and that is with billions of miles of driving. Military and civ. airlines have been using Fram oil and fuel filters for decades, and they monitor delta pressure and particles constantly...along with regular phase inspections with trend analysis and oil sampling. If they were inferior it would have shown up long ago...
@@land7776 It's basically people making video's cutting apart different filter brands seeing how quality varies among brands. I would use an Fram XG on my vehicles (and I do) but not the other Fram models. I trust Wix & a few other brands too.
@@sameoldeh well, the old orange Frams , fuel and oil, are the ones I've seen used in aircraft for decades. As well as Mann, Wix, Hastings and others. Also in marine engines. There's no testing after millions of gallons/miles of data and trend analysis that shows a problem with them. If there was, it would've been seen and they wouldn't use them. But the Fram hate meme lives on I guess...
None of the full flow filters clean oil. I depend on my game changer bypass depth filter to clean oil. When I choose a full flow filter it will be on there a couple of years. I will be interested in how heavy the steel is. How good the bypass valve is. The paper ends are no concern to me.. They will last as long as the pleated paper. The last full flow filter I put on the Pontiac Torrant was a Wix. I probably liked the feel of it. The Motor Guards will do the cleaning and protecting the full flow filter. The tractor is a straight bypass system. It has a Old Frantz adapter. No full flow filter to worry about. The Kohler on the yard tractor has a Gulf Coast junior bypass filter to do the work and a cheapest Fram to grab anything big.
Wix does the same as other full flow filters. They protect the engine from large engine damaging abrasives and let the small engine wearing abrasives and sludge build up in the oil until you drain it. The Wix full flow filter on my Pontiac Torrent has 61,000 miles on it and a little over 4 years. The depth bypass filter keeps it clean. I normally change the full flow filter every 2 years. The car doesnt care what brand of full flow filter is on it. None of them clean oil.
I saw where someone had left the same Oil filter on until the can began rusting through! That, and the oil resembled liquefied concrete. Gritty and grey. A 1972 Skylark, with pristine Leopard print console shift interior.
I heard that too! Change oil filter every other oil change! I always thought why change oil if your not changing the oil filter. Just my thoughts! I usually get into the 200,000 plus mileage range on my vehicles.
The spinner filter operates like a centrifugal fuel polisher for diesel fuel. That is one of the best things to use with high horsepower yacht diesels. Fuel polishing in Diesel engines is very helpful.
@@HypocriticYT well you're right I remember somebody having that problem and ended up losing all their oil almost blew the motor up that is a good tip thank you
Back in1986 I changed the oil on my Toyota extended cab 4 cylinder efi 2.2 liter engine. I was on the interstate and my oil gauge flashed red. I drove 3 miles at highway speed to a gas station. I forgot to check to make sure the old o-ring was off. It wasn't! Filled up with a synthetic oil and went to work. Today the engine runs fine. . .
The last oil change I did myself I could remove the filter. I called my mechanic brother and he said it's okay to change it the next time I changed oil. He since gave me an oil filter remover (looks like a cap that connects to a socket wrench (don't know if that the right term for the tool) so I can remove it cause my dainty hands can't twist it. The funny thing is I was the one who put the oil filter on the last time. Guess I ate too much spinach the night before.💪🏼.
FYI. Do not use the wrench to install the filter, only use it to remove it. When installing one make sure to put some oil on the seal and just tighten it by hand. If you use the wrench when installing it you can damage the filter, threads or your engine.
@@josecuervo4423 Or better yet follow the instructions; A good filter will usually tell you how many turns to tighten once the gasket has made contact. "do it by hand" is just as imprecise as using a tool with no specification and a loose filter can cause catastrophic engine damage. Tighten it the *correct* amount. If you can do that by hand more power to you. If you need to use a tool that's fine too.
Ok I give up I can not reply to every post anymore Mr Toyota you Win , happy trails wish you the best Scotty my only advice is remember is nice to be important but is more important to be nice Chevy/dodge/Ford # 1 remember Japan don’t put food in my table god bless!!
I prefer having a permanent, higher quality check-valve in my turbocharged engine (VAG EA888 1.8L tsi). There is no missed quality control, i.e. “lemon”, spin-on style filters to worry about. I just replace the oil filter media and 1 o-ring. The oem filters are 5-8 USD a piece from online euro parts stores. I do Pentosin HP II 5.5L + OEM filter for $50-55...2x a year. Super easy to change the filter and zero mess. Most spin-on filters are mounted upside down and removing them usually makes a mess, especially the hard to access filters you have to dance out of the engine bay/suspension area. Oh yeah my husband really misses the spin on Chevy cavalier filters...right next to the exhaust manifold 😂 been over a decade since he worked at a quick lube though haha. Now plastic oil pans/drain plugs are a different story....ive already cracked and replaced mine with a steel pan and drain bolt.
Most engineers would rather stick to the spin on cartridge, high up executives would rather stick to higher profit margins. Toyota did use cartridge on some models then went back. (I think)
I like the cartridge filter that's on my Mercedes. It's right on top in easy reach. Not a single drop of stray oil gets dropped anywhere since I use a oil extractor to take out the old oil. I know Toyota has a cartridge type that isn't as simple. I will be dealing with that probably next year when I replace my '97 4 Runner with another 4 Runner.
I love the cartridge filter on our Hyundai. Right up top, super easy to change without making a mess, and you can visually inspect the media without having to cut open an oily metal can. Easier to check for leaks too.
I can the oil when it smells funky & darkens, indicating its become acidic & contaminated. I use the OEM filter during an oil change & change the oil while the engine is hot, thin warm oil drains more effectively. I also lift & lower the jack on one side to tip the car to help more oil get out & notice at some angles the flow rate increases, while the drain bolt out so oil goes into the drain pan where I collect spent motor oil. I put the spent motor oil into a container using a funnel to take the used oil to a local auto parts store for recycling. Charing the motor oil slightly more often will only cost a little extra, but if you going to keep the car for a long time & high mileage, a few extra oil changes can reduce engine wear & make your engine last longer ..
Take a paper towel, pull out the oil dip stick & wipe it off. Clean motor oil a light yellow color. As blow by from the engine contaminates the oil with acidic funk & particles, exhaust gas etc that slips by the rings even in good engines, the oil becomes darker & smells worse. If you wipe the oil on the paper tower & it looks darker & smells like HC or gasoline or has a burned funky smell, change the oil & oil filter early.
My brother's first car was a 1958 Pontiac with a cartridge filter. The first time I change it, I loosened the center bolt and hot motor oil ran down my arm, into my armpit, and onto my back. When I saw that recent cars had switched to cartridge filters, it brought back memories of that old car.
Air cooled beetles, metal screen and magnet. Which most people ignored. Oil change stories galore. Lady brought her explorer in for its first oil change at 60,000 miles. Captain on the boat complaining low oil pressure. Cartridge plugged so bad it collapsed. Had to remove in pieces. Countless double gaskets by DIYers. Few missing filters, seized engines so bad had to drop pan and disconnect all the rods and loosen the mains just to turn it enough to unbolt converter. Or the drain plugs falling out 2 miles down the road from service stations. Don't miss it. But those who were religious about oil changes and maintenance. 200 -300 thousand miles was not uncommon even back then. Cheap insurance.
Scotty does mention the full flow n bypass n centrifugal oil filters, while the magnetic oil filter is exactly that as it only removes metals needing to be cleaned.
Back in the 1980s when I worked in a well respected garage as a mechanic there was a older guy that had a 1980 ford f150 with a 302 engine and he would get me to service his truck and the oil change consisted of a motorcraft oil filter and one quart of valvoline 10w30 oil and he ran that truck 100,000 miles with no engine problems...every oil change was a filter and a quart of oil to replace what the filter had in it and the engine had no sludge in it if you people were wondering.
I serviced telephone trucks in the 60s. With the pickups they only changed the filters and added a quart of new oil. They knew when they traded them in the engines would be a sludged up mess but it wouldnt make them worth less than if the engine was pristine. Oils were not good in those days unless you used an oil like Standard Delo W 30. You could also get W 20 Delo in those days. I personally used a Frantz oil cleaner with Delo W 30. Frantz and Motor Guard were the game changers of the 60s. Frantz also had the FAA approved AeroFrantz. All I have now is Motor Guards and Gulf Coasts. They are the easiest to service. I dont need any more game changer filters. Was ordering a E C M for the Pontiac. Saw a Austrailian Jackmaster on Ebay. I'm curious about them. I've heard they are Australia's best oil filter.
I can see an engine going 100,000 miles with no oil changes changing only the filter and adding a quart of oil. I've seen engines so sludged up there was as much sludge in the engine as oil. It was probably caused by not changing the filter more than not changing the oil. Also oil in the 80s were better than oil in the 60s. My 93 Subaru Legacy had 116,000 miles on it when I bought it. Has 237,000 miles on it now. Shows no signs of engine problems. Got its first oil change since I've owned it the other day. Went to synthetic oil. It has Motor Guards on the engine and transmission. Those are the game changer toilet paper oil filters. The old F 350 dually diesel had over 300,000 miles on it when I bought it said the rancher pulling a large horse trailer. Pulled off the overhead Avion camper and sold the truck. Took it from Texas to Seattle a couple of times and to Florida. Lost interest. Always glad to get home.
Hey Scotty, I remember the Frantz “lifetime” filter with its “toilet paper roll” inside. I even recall the Prelin Electric Oil Refiner (now being peddled as PetroSaver). I also remember the extended drain interval claims made by Mobil 1 - even replaced a turbocharger on my 1978 Saab 99 Turbo because I believed them. 🙄
Mobil one dpecifixally recommended to NOT use extended drain intervals on turbo or supercharged engines....had a friend w z turbo Shelby front wheel drive car that learned the hard way about turbo cars....fun to drive but pure hell to take care of
@@johnervin1474 any idea WHEN that recommendation came out? I wonder if it was too many people with bad experiences like mine 40 years ago that caused it.
Never had a car with a turbo. There are over the road trucks with over a million miles with no oil drains that have turbo charged engines. Of course they have large bypass filters like the Gulf Coast 02 filter that takes 3 gallons of make up oil 5.5 gallons when the full flow filters are also changed. Pulled into.a Cummins shop once with a new truck with a screaming turbo. One of the big hose clamps had ended up inside a hose. Worked it's way into the turbo.
@@ralphwood8818 one more thing to fail (expensively). Boost more air and fuel into an engine, and you create more heat and stress. It had better be well built or it won’t last.
I have heard that if you use oiled gauze air filters like the K&N, you should change your oil filter twice as often to remove the grit. Oil can be changed at normal intervals, if you like.
My sister used to get her oil changed at the corner oil change shop faithfully every 3000 miles. I was going to change it for her, put synthetic in it with a premium filter. When I changed the filter, they had written the change date in marker on it. They were only changing her filter every other oil change but charging her for it.
I got a story for you scotty. Was rebuilding an engine for a fella who said it was just time. We started taking her apart, draining fluids, disconnecting hoses and such and undid his filter... Well it fealt weird to me so I got the guys and we took a look inside... The metal was there, but nothing else. The filter system was all but gone. Dude had just gotten his oil done at a "jiffy lube" less than 2k miles 2months prior to this as per the sticker they put on his window. Well when we got into the engine we found so much debree we couldn't believe it. So we told him and saved him a full rebuild and just got it all cleaned up and with a few minor (inhouse) improvements and about $2 grand back in his pocket he was happily going down the road.
This Fatal Flaw Will Affect Millions of Honda Owners: ruclips.net/video/wvG9MAwJRbA/видео.html
Thanks for watching! Like and Subscribe for More Vids Daily ► ruclips.net/channel/UCuxpxCCevIlF-k-K5YU8XPA
⬇️Scotty’s Top DIY Tools:
1. Bluetooth Scan Tool: amzn.to/2nfvmaD
2. Mid-Grade Scan Tool: amzn.to/33dKI0k
3. My Fancy (Originally $5,000) Professional Scan Tool: amzn.to/31khBXC
4. Cheap Scan Tool: amzn.to/2D8Tvae
5. Dash Cam (Every Car Should Have One): amzn.to/2YQW36t
6. Basic Mechanic Tool Set: amzn.to/2tEr6Ce
7. Professional Socket Set: amzn.to/2Bzmccg
8. Ratcheting Wrench Set: amzn.to/2BQjj8A
9. No Charging Required Car Jump Starter: amzn.to/3i7SH5D
10. Battery Pack Car Jump Starter: amzn.to/2nrc6qR
⬇️ Things used in this video:
1. Common Sense
2. 4k Camera: amzn.to/2HkjavH
3. Camera Microphone: amzn.to/2Evn167
4. Camera Tripod: amzn.to/2Jwog8S
5. My computer for editing / uploading: amzn.to/301tYt9
🛠Check out the tools I use and highly recommend ► goo.gl/rwYt2y
Subscribe and hit the notification bell! ► goo.gl/CFismN
It used to be thought the first oil/filter change was the most important and done at 2500 to 3000 miles. Was / is that "street legend' valid in the day and is it valid now ?
Please go live one day let us send u chats
i imagined you waving your arms. hahaha
Another great video
@@Dingleberry81 he does twice a week see notes
First time I listen smooth and clear voice of Scotty.
Well you should have subscribed earlier🙂
Wisdom and truth calm the soul.
The knowledge of Scotty never ceases to amaze me
Lol yes me too first time i hear scotty talks calmly
It's ASMR Scotty lmfao
My auto teacher said "Oil is cheaper than engine parts" still seems true today.
@Andy Man 🤡
@Andy Man 12 grand on motor oil? What kind of motor oil are you buying?
@Andy Man its $12 for 5 quart jug at walmart lol. 12 grand for oil??? What kind of oil is that lol
"seems" true?
@Andy Man tf are you talking about?
I like how you incorporate automotive history into the content of your videos. The best elements of your videos, however, are the colorful illustrations and the brillant animations - makes understanding difficult concepts easy and fun!!!
Professor Kilmer - wonderful presentation on the details and importance of oil filters and filtration. God speed, young man!!
What would we do without scotty
I'm young man
Where is the new game changer oil filter
The game changer oil filters have been around for at least since 1953 when John Frantz figured that oil should stay clean and oil filters should get dirty. Made sence to me. Didnt make sense to the oil changers. John Frantz thought what is the best oil filter available. Of course its cellulose. Where do you find high quality cellulose. Of course toilet paper.. Here come the liars and fools. They all think the fools will shut up if they get away from toilet paper. That won't work some of us have used toilet paper for over 60 years and dont drain oil.
So where's the oil filter thats a game changer as advertised??
The game changer filter is the brand that pays the most.
Amsoil oil and filters are the best in the market 🇺🇸🇺🇸
Mobil 1 full synthetic 20% more efficient and is guaranteed for 20,000 miles or two years.
@@captaindeadpool1640 show me where you get this fallacy
@@captaindeadpool1640 I cannot imagine ANY oil will stay stable for 20,000 miles!! Does your vehicle have a built-in refinery or something?? Even car companies that recommend 10,000 mile intervals are dreaming, unless your car holds 10-15 quarts of oil! Most hold 3 or 4 quarts these days with the tiny engines they use..
I found it funny that Scotty thanked me for my support. It’s me who needs to thank Scotty every time he shares a video with us. Thank you Scotty. And a thousand thank you for all the content I watch and all the help he has given me.
He makes a lot of $$ - that's why...
I just finished a complete engine overhaul on my 1973 ford f350 crew cab. It started it life at Erie Mining Co. I bought the truck with less than 14,000 miles on it and then I grafted a 3.5 ton Ford dully to it to turn it into a inclosed car hauler. It weights 11,000 lbs empty, and at 75,000 miles I removed the engine and did the rebuild. I have 52 years of experience in the racing engine business so the rebuild was nothing new for me. I did oil and filter changes at 2000 miles, and also changed the OIL in the OIL BATH air filter. When I did the the tear down the engine had no cylinder wear at all, but the most amazing thing was, that when I removed the oil pan, it looked like NEW inside. I really believe most of this was because of the OIL BATH air cleaner.
Scotty - I actually got into working on my own cars and discovered your channel as a result of a botched oil change. The shop did not remove the oil canister gasket ring on my wife's 2011 camry and just added a second one over the existing gasket and this caused a slow leak over 2 days which eventually left my wife and I stranded in the pocono mountains when the engine shut off. Fortunately the engine had no damage since this was a few years ago now but since then I learned how to do all maintenance on my own vehicles with the help of your videos of course! I now have full confidence knowing basic maintenance is being done with quality parts and quality work that will last.
And that's exactly why I check the old filter for its gasket after I spin it off. If it aint there, it's still on the engine! Also, why I wipe the contact surface, then wet the filter ring on the new filter with clean oil. Makes a tighter seal, and more likely for ring seal to come off with the filter, when the time to change that filter comes due.
I did that on a '55 Buick, in the 70s. Did not see the oil gasket stuck inside. Caught it in the garage after start up.... lots of oil on the floor! So be extra careful with canister type filters.
Scotty... You did not mention the new oil filter that just changed the game.
Was wondering the same thing
That was most likely to get your attention....
Yeah where is the new oil filter the chain is the game?
I guess we will never know
It probably was the magnetic filter that's ineffective and dont work on aluminum. He said it never needs charging.
I enjoy this format of video Scotty - keep em coming!!
thank you, it's a lot of work!
I agree these videos are great
10-4. Keep up these educational videos! Pass that knowledge down to younger generations!
@@scottykilmer
It shows Scotty, great teaching videos!
If I don't see a cat pillow, how can I be sure that I am getting good advice.
Scotty:
The oil filter is like the white "rev up your engines" coffee cup I bought from you. When I don't clean the cup, the old cofee gets sludgy and leaves brown stains at the bottom. Fresh coffee just doesn't taste fresh; kind of like adding new motor oil to your car but not changing the filter. When I clean it and pour fresh coffee into the cup, my internal engine revs up and I'm good to go. God bless and hope you enjoyed the story. Keep up the great work.
Tom Ross
Houston, Tx
Scotty, I have used super tech filters since at least 25 years,best buy, best fiter,best deal and Still it is SAME WITh SUPERTECH SYNTHETIC OIL.Rated high in all test.Wal-mart has best prices. Thats my Story and Sticking to IT.
,Great show.
As a young man, I had my oil changed at an oil change chain. They changed the oil and filter. However when installing the replacement filter they damaged the valve inside the filter. This didn't effect the oil flow at idle or low speeds, but when at high excelleration and speed it was starving the engine of oil. I first noticed this when the oil light flickered while getting on the highway. A full inspection and oil change corrected the issue I've never gone back to a discount oil change place since.
These videos help me with my mental health. Thank you Scotty.
I miss your excitement. I've always been impressed by your ability to get me excited about what ever your video is about...
Not complaining this is very polished and professional.
Learn something every day. Had no idea exactly how a oil filter worked. Thank you Scotty. I will be more aware now
When I worked on US Army helicopters, the T700 GE engines had three filtration systems that cleaned the oil down to 3 microns (if memory serves.) Many claimed that this thorough filtration made the oil cleaner than when it left the can new. Because we used a local lab to analyze the various component fluids, we rarely changed them/when the lab recommended it. To the naked eye, the oil samples that we submitted looked pristine.
Correction at some point before 500,000 miles Pepsi sold the truck to a Motorcycle hauler. Lost track of it after a million miles inspection.
A lot of the issues was with the oil bowsers and contamination in the bowsers. I went to a manufactures meeting once ( I was Navy AMT 20 years and 30 Civilian) manufacture swore it is always better to "Punch and Pour" vs using a bowser.
dear Duranbailiff5337: -Thanks for your service. Wouldn't the high heat from the GEs break-down even synthetic carbon-chains, so the fluids might be LOOK "Pristeen" but be smaller, so the bearing clearances would, over time, diminish, leading to main-rotor Failure, and the copter dropping like a stone. I told my "Stup-peeriors" 40 years ago to put a rocket-deployable 'chute on top of the main rotor[s], on top of the radar some times put on the rotor-top, just to keep the copter from turning into a "safe" thrown from a plane, due to ANY reason, but the Military perfumed-princes don't CARE if we grunts...or even "Prezi-dunces" git kilt in the demmed fall!
@@jackdale9831The system you are proposing is impossible
We use Wix and Motorcraft as some of us have been training on oil, fuel , air filters! You would be surprised what’s in some filters or lack of filter media
I use Wix filters exclusively and always will.
@@musicauthority7828 well good for you. Bosch/Mann or whoever makes Wix loves you...
I only use WIX.
I remember once going to a really good auto parts store and the filter they gave me which just felt totally different than any other filter especially the weight but they gave me a Hastings oil filter and it seemed like it was a good quality I wonder how good they're supposed to
@@arlenmargolin1650 Hastjng are or were good quality
I really like the K&N filters with the hex-nut welded on the end ... it has made changing the oil filter SO MUCH EASIER on several of my cars / trucks that have very hard-to-reach oil filter locations ... they have become the ONLY filter I will buy. (and they are of very durable, high-quality materials also !!).
Oil filters should not be put on by gorilla's!!! They "should" be easily removed using an appriate tool. Unfortuneatly, many 7/11 oil change shops tighten them down like they are lugnuts! One brand, the one that begins with a "F" uses some grippy material adheareard to the can to make it not much of a chore to R&R the filter can. -As for their filters, I as an above average consummer, can only assume they meet or exceed the manufactures specs...
Hey, Scotty! I have considered myself to be a pretty fair "backyard" and "hot rod" mech-guy for over a quarter century now and I'm always impressed that I learn one or two things (minimum) from each of your vids! I have my adult sons follow you too because frankly, your advice/information is ALWAYS better/more complete than mine! A big "Thank you" to you, Mr. Kilmer! Please keep doing that thing you do - for the benefit of ALL of us mech wannabe's! Cheers, good sir!
The production quality of this video is great. Watched every second of it.
I have a 2012 Chevy Suburban with the 5.3 L v8. I have had it since 66000 mi and it has 110000 now. I have changed the oil at the mileage from the vehicle mileage countdown meter. Oil and filter was the "specials" from the local parts shop. I was seeing lowering oil pressure readings over time down to the point that it would alarm < 15 lb. I was going the tear it apart to replace the pump. On a lark i changed to a better quality oil filter and shazam, no oil pressure issues at all anymore. I will always buy the best quality filter they have now. Thanks for the info about the better filtering filters with high flow.
When I was an owner operator truck driver, I used to run a bypass oil filter system of the tractor. The advantage was you kept the oil cleaner and used oil analysis to tell you when it was time to change the oil and not a set mileage schedule. So normally, I could go 150-200k miles before actually needing to change the oil (just for comparison at that time, normal oil change intervals on heavy duty highway diesels was between 25-50k miles). The added bonus to oil analysis is you will be able to catch small issues before they become large ones that lead to catastrophic engine damage. Things like coolant leaking or fuel dilution will show up as will signs of incomplete combustion, not to mention engine wear that is normal throughout the lifespan on an engine.
It is hours of operating the engine, not miles, that count.
I have a Mazda spin on bypass filter on the shelf. It is for a Mazda diesel pickup early 1980s. My guess it is pleated paper.Why does a pleated paper bypass filter clean oil better than a pleated paper full flow filter ? Answer It has an orifice.the slower the flow the better the cleaning. Why was it removed from the Mazda. To make room for a Frantz oil cleaner.. you cant clean oil with pleated filters. It takes depth. The Frantz has depth. 4 inches will always beat 1/32 inch. My Rambler American came new from the factory with a pleated paper bypass filter. The way I got clean oil was to remove it and install a Frantz oil cleaner. Sound like a Frantz dealer. Haven't used them in years. Better designed filters have came and gone. When you stop selling them you lose track of them. All I have now is Gulf Coasts and Motor Guards. I'm curious about the Jackmaster of Austrailia. Some Australian's use toilet paper in them. I like the tee handle and top loaders.
love your videos YAY
Yes, but there's a linear relationship between the two.
Those were the “good old days”. Diesel and gas engines suffer from oil dilution and contamination caused by emission control systems. A Bypass filter is still a good idea. Oil change intervals should be determined by oil analysis if you want to go beyond 5000 miles.
Good information as usual. My son changed the oil filter on our boat (350 Olds.) The filter is on the back bottom where you can just reach the filter but cannot see it. The old filter gasket stayed on the engine and distorted under the new filter. Nothing we could see. We always observe the engine on our first time out for water leaks or other issues. In this case we pumped out quarts of oil into the boat, shut it down and returned home. Rest of family not happy. He nor I will ever “not check” for the old gasket ever again.
I only use OEM oil filters on my chevy 5.3 Its made for the oil weight ,pressure bypass rating, and micron requirements for my engine . Aftermarket filters are made to cover many applications and might create more wear on the engine.I have changed my own oil and always used OEM filters all my life and never had to go into an engine for repairs.(And i ONLY drive GM vehicles).
except GM doesn't manufacture their filters, someone like WIX or Bosch does- and they also make other brands. There's only a very few cos.that make all filters, with different names..
@@land7776 Fram is one company that manufactures and markets several brands of oil and air filters.
Scotty, don't forget to remind folks to check tightness of the oil filler cap and dip stick! Both have o-ring seals that may leak and after 15 years my o-ring went flat and set off codes that were not easily solved! Aha! I found the air vacuum leak! It was the oil cap! Code instantly went off and hasn't returned since!
He talked about the oil filler cap seal a couple of weeks ago.
Are you talking about the wait a minute is there a cap on the oil filter where is the cat
If the middle long piece part of the oil cap is missing how bad would that affect the engine?
Talk about changing your oil filter...my auto teacher back in the day made the statement..."well, you change your underwear after taking a shower, don't you, so change your oil filter!"
Haha that’s really good
What if I don’t change my underwear for 5,000 miles should I also not change my oil filter?
What if I prefer to go commando? Should I not run with an oil filter at all?
Stupidest thing I’ve heard in awhile . And I mean awhile 👍
Dee Gee, you actually really change your underwear after every shower?? Damn, if your showering everyday, isn't your underwear good for at least a week replacement interval?? I mean all things being relative, it's the mileage between change intervals and less soaps/detergents and fabric softeners will help the Environment!
Ohhh, an don't play wit dat dipstick too much as you shower the engine.
Very thorough and informative video. If a person has the time and basic mechanical ability to change their own oil then I recommend it. Why? One, you have the time to let that oil drain as long as you want to. That means more bad oil out. Two, and this may sound ate up, but it helps you connect with your vehicle. It becomes more than just a piece of equipment that gets you to and from work. Lastly, you can make sure it’s done correctly. Filter gasket removed and new one lubricated. Filter and drain plug not over tightened. Properly check for leaks afterward. Remove and reinstall access panels correctly.
I am amazed by Scotty's efforts and dedication to make such illustrating (and good) animation videos that perfectly show with images what he says in words.
Keep it up Scotty tells 👍👍
are you sure this is all Scotty or is he just narrating something someone else has made and paid him for?
Mazda put this together. He narrates and makes the big $$$.
The pictures say the full flow filter removes 100% of the contamination on the first pass.. In reality almost all contamination is too small for the full flow filter to remove. Not even the Mazda bypass filter on my diesel pickup could clean the oil. I had to remove it and install a Frantz oil cleaner to get the oil clean. They say the bypass or secondary filter cleans 10 % of the oil. In reality the Frantz or other toilet paper filters clean 100% of the oil several times on a trip. The full flow filter is there to get the big stuff. Oil changes or depth filters are there for the small stuff. It's not rocket science.
I use Amsoil for everything, 2015 Ram 1500 (116 miles), Coleman mini bike, whole house generator, sport bikes. It's more expensive but everything seems to run smoother and oil maintains viscosity.
I didn't hear anything about a new oil filter!
I noticed a design change with mine last time I bought a mobil one... and the timing chain rattle was gone on my toyota with the new design ;) It came back only a year later with older oil
@@livebassngames cool story who asked?
Great information Scotty. Always change your filter with the oil change using 100% synthetic oil and the manufactured recommended weight every 3-5k miles and your engine will love you, and we love Scotty.👍🏻
Thank you scotty! You gave me the confidence to work on my own car with your videos 👍👍
thanks, glad to hear it!
@@SquadJuiced Could it feel smoother because you are now one with your vehicle?
It's a challenge on some engines !
I own a 1961 Cessna and that engine came with just an oil screen that you would wash on every oil change. Later on a spin on oil filter adapter was added to the engine as a FAA approved modification. Oil changes on the engine occurs every 25 hours of engine operation and you change the filter on the 50th hour ( every other oil change) it’s SOP.
I always use the synthetic filter with my full synthetic oil. Engine still runs smooth with 164k miles on it. Got it used with 34k miles
I've been watching a heck of a lot of oil-filter videos recently -- I'm glad to see a heavy-hitter take them on.
If anyone is curious. Mobil-1 oil-filter seems to be better than FRAM or SuperTech, and in some ways better than K&N. The channel I watched most recently didn't get into Wix or NAPA-Gold. A channel I watched long ago had actual surface rust inside of the FRAM when he cut it open, and that turned me off of FRAM pretty much permanently.
The last time i ever let someone else change my oil they had the same filter on it that i had on the car when I showed up. I will never let a shop change my oil again.
I take my cars to my mechanic for oil change. I buy the correct oil and filter and take it to him. He charges me a minimum because I let him do all my maintenance.
I only had it done once and I saw how easy it was so I’ve done it myself ever since on my Tahoe and Altima and change the cvt fluid the same
amen to that. I have seen these clowns overfill the oil, and tighten the oil filter and plug so tight you need vice grips and a cheater bar to get plug off, or have to puncture the filter and pry it back off. I don't trust any of them, that's why I do it myself. Especially the quik-lube places, they are paying flunkies near minimum wage to do oil changes on your car- and they don't know or care about your car. Even at a dealership, it's not the top mech that's changing your oil, it's the newbie...
When I worked in a full service Standard Station it was sir you could use an oil change. Now its sir you could use a depth bypass filter. Filters that clean oil are not practical for a lot of people. The good ones all have oil lines. You have to understand the oil system. But if you want to escape the allowing the oil to get dirty wear and foul the engine then draining it system you need a depth bypass filter. Pleated paper doesnt do it.
@@ralphwood8818 well, it's done it for me for decades. I've never owned a car with mileage that didn't go >200k, and never had one damaged or had the heads off, using standard oil filters the whole time...
Agreed, inspection is important after the change and at the next gasoline fill. I've had 2 filters fail that didn't leak immediately; one with a painted-over pinhole, another installed with 2 o-rings. I also check engine oil before and after a change, especially if done by a shop. Before to see how much oil was used, after to make sure they filled the engine. I've had 4 in a 5 quart system and the other way around. Being down half a pint lets me know what to expect at the next oil check, instead of being worried.
I had a brand new car from a dealership that offered free oil change for three years. They put 5 qts. of oil in my car with a 4 qt.capacity. I don't trust any of them..
we love you scotty!! 💯
We love Scotty in a manly platonic kind of way. 😁😋
I have been using WIX oil filters for years . I worked at a shop were the owner got more out of his trucks than I had ever seen . He used WIX ,filled the filter with oil and changed the oil every 2,000 miles. So I did the same.
In modern engines there's very little 'dirt', particles in oil is actually wear metals! Once some steel wears of cams and the crankshaft these particles then wear aluminum from pistons, chromium from rings and lead from babbit main bearings, etc. How do I know? Oil analysis reports before and after show strong magnets were inserted on and in my spin-on oil filters. To get good results you need lots of magnets because engine oil is thick and moves fast thru the filter. At 8:24 Scotty claims magnetic filters don't work on aluminum, true, but when you reduce steel particles, the aluminum wear drops considerably. What's best, small or large oil filters? Turns out oil takes the shortest path thru a filter as soon as it enters, filter media at the mount plate of the filter sees the highest oil flow while the rest of the filter fills up, flow thru the media at the other end is far slower. Was I surprised to see this? Yes. Do I like large filters? Yes. It turns out it does not help. Look up the oil filter for a (C2 and up) Corvette, any Corvette, they are incredibly small! Mostly to fit a tightly packed engine, if there ever was a need for a large filter this is it, yet not so! My car? 2009 Impala, spin-on filter with 27 magnets (incl 2 FilterMags on the outside). Lead wear is < 1ppm!
what magnets do you use and where do you place them? Most neodymium magnets lose considerable magnetism when hot, so putting them in oil is bunk. Just curious about your ideas though
Interesting..
@@dansmith6990 Neodymium magnets lose a percentage of their magnetism depending on their curie point. Most w/ a curie point of 350F will lose about 20-30% at 200F and recover when cool. If they hit 350F they become non-magnetic. Magnets with higher curie points can be bought for much more $$. For a spin-on oil filter I use a pair of FilterMags on the outside, be sure there is enough room all the way around. Between them there's enough space for Neo bar magnets. Inside I place 2 bar mags down the tube seated opposite each other. Then on the filter threaded base I put small round neo disk mags on the steel between the oil holes. Been doing it for years now.
@@mmpiforall5913 on these magnets do you then have to clean these magnets and is it hard to get particles off of them
@@arlenmargolin1650 Yes, during an oil change I take all the mags off and clean. Once the oil is off the steel particles are stubborn, so I use damp tissue paper to move all material to one spot and 'pinch' it off. It takes a few minutes, but hey, TLC always gives good results.
I did some research on the reusable filters and I realise that this is the answer to saving the environment from all waste. The filter that spins over 3000 RPM not only removes particles down to 1 to five microns, it doesn’t restrict the flow at all.
Your engine will last twice as long if not a lot longer than expected.
Amazing, but manufacturers won’t come close to it because there modow is don’t fix just replace. $
Did I miss the name of the oil filter that means you never have to change the oil?
You would not have clicked on "Oil Filter Tutorial."
I would have a very hard time believing there is such a filter. Eventually it's going to need cleaning or replacing. I don't fully trust the synthetic oil I use.
My thoughts are sceptical at best.
I take every scheduled maintenance of my vehicle very serious because I bought it used. I don't know what the inside looks like. Even though it was in top shape when I bought it in 2012. It had 186,000 on it then. 232,000 now. That 46,000 in 10 year's. Most of the time I drive less then 300 miles a month. Unless I visit friends out of State.
I wish I could be convinced full synthetic oil was as advertised. I just don't buy it. I'm not going to ruin my motor just because someone says I can drive up to 7,000 miles on it. I change my filter everytime too.
I don't trust mechanic's to work on my car anymore because I have been stung a lot in the past and cost me money instead of saving me $$.
That would be the Franz bypass filter that uses a roll of TP as the filter media. All of the motor eventually runs thru it where the dense TP captures the finest crud so the oil always remains clean. In theory one doesn't need to change the motor oil, just the TP with a quart of fresh oil to replace what's trapped inside the roll and renew the additives to the old oil.
Jackmaster claims their elements are better than toilet paper. That could be true. Their elements seem firmer than toilet paper.Ive used toilet paper since 1963 Too old to change now. Some of us are expert toilet paper squeezers. The Jackmaster element is a little firmer than the Scott 1000 or the Great value 1000 from Walmart. Im not driving a Lamborghini. Toilet paper has always worked for me.There was a time when I had to go to a janitorial supply store to get the best.
A few years ago I bought a new truck. I took it to the dealer at 3,000 miles to get the oil changed. They didn’t want to change my oil because the oil change light did not come on yet. I had to argue with them to get an oil change done. I couldn’t believe it.
My opinion is that changing the oil and filter more often will help keep the engine in good condition for as long as possible.
I like to place magnets on my regular oil filters. When you cut them open there is usually a very fine particle pile in the shape of the magnetic flux lines. It's never much but always good to keep particles out of the oil. Magnets are cheap.
Brilliant!
I'm gonna do this on my next oil change.
Install a Magnetic Drain plug! Also!
@@leegillette9178
Always! The filter sees all of the oil at some point, though. Drain plug may or may not but it is a great way to get out more, also.
A lot of steel is much too small for the high volume full flow filter to remove.A magnet or many bypass type oil filters can remove it. Oil changers recommend draining the oil. For the last 60 years I have used depth bypass filters such as Frantz Motor Guard Gulf Coast and the Australian Jackmaster. My pristine engines have almost nothing in the oil large enough to be removed by the full flow filter. The Wix on my Pontiac has been on there about 4 years and 60,000 miles. No doubt it is still clean. I normally change the full flow filter every 2 years. The bypass depth filter is supposed to keep the full flow filter clean as well as the engine. Actually a game changer filter can only keep the oil clean. Clean oil can do a lot of things. I have the Australian Jackmaster Classic. As far as I know it is the easiest to service still in production. Push in the toilet paper and put on the lid. Similar to the Gulf Coast junior.
I have been using AMSOIL Synthetic oil & filters for over 40 years.
Company recommended oil change 25.000 miles or one year. If you send them an oil sample you can go past that.
One the road truckers, change the oil filters at 30,000 miles & replace the oil that was in the filters. They also send in an oil sample for analysis.
My favorite oil filter trick: using an oversized filter. More surface area, less impediment to flow. I drive a Saturn but when I'm buying a filter, I pretend it's a Dodge Neon SRT.
Saturn you don't need to change oil , just keep adding and change filter .
@@kenj.8897 I mean, that is one way to do it for sure. It does use the oil quickly enough 😅
My AMSOIL by-pass filter cleaned all the way down to like 3 or 4 Microns! My diesel engine was still running at 300,000 miles, but getting parts for a 20 year old Iveco truck was almost impossible to find so I parked the 20 foot van and made a storage unit out of her. She ran on Ams Oil products for 20 years without problems...
I use a spin on M1-212 for my Impala. Great filters. ☺️ MOBIL 1 all the way.
Mobil One? Check out the ea-series filters from AMSOIL. Then you'll truly be impressed.
Scotty should've mentioned the bypass oil filter. A bypass oil filter is the true game changer. Filters your oil down to extremely smaller particles than a standard oil filter can easily extend the life of your oil 20,000 miles or more. You'll find several cases where a person goes a million miles or more on the same oil, just doing regular filter changes and adding a little oil when needed. Granted, those vehicles are usually diesels that are doing that kind of mileage on no oil changes. Just regular filter changes. However, the effect will still greatly lengthen the lifespan of your oil in any vehicle.
Hey Scotty, do you edit these yourself? These types of videos are awesome! I still love your unscripted content too 😁
Nothing worse than a guy asking a question he already knows the answer too just to try to be noticed
Filters that clean oil have been around for 70 years. They are seldom mentioned. They started with a Frantz oil cleaner in 1953. My experience started in 1963 with a Frantz oil cleaner on my Rambler American. In 1961 Motor Guard came out with another one. They converted to compressed air filters. Gulf Coast filters came out with improved top loaders. Im told the Jackmaster came out in 1954 in Australia. Similar to the Gulf Coast junior it is made of high pressure die cast aluminum. I had to have one. Removed a Motor Guard to make room for it on the Pontiac Torrent. Should have ordered one years ago. Ordered the Classic model with no hoae and fittings.. Nothing wrong with the Motor Guard. They filter the same. The Motor Guard on the Ford 390 is 50 years old..Seems to be more interest in the game changer filters.
My dad added a secondary toilet roll oil filter system to our 1960 Volkswagen Kombi. Not sure how it would stack up today. But it was always pretty dirty when he swapped in a new roll about every 6 months. Cheap and effective. Anyone else remember them?
Yep, have seen and even used will not work on cars newer than around 1980...you see, those filters sometimes fail. Decomposing and shredding crap all over the inside of the engine...if not changed about every 1500 to 3000 miles ..and omg what a mess to change
Dad was on top of that, never had any issues. But toilet paper isn't the same now. It was a novel alternative which also added an extra 500mls of oil to the system.
I changed the toilet paper pretty often on the beetle. The engine was loaded with large engine damaging pieces of steel and probably aluminum. That would have been a good engine for both a full flow filter and the toilet paper filter. Dont know if full flow filters were available then. They are now.
A lady had a beetle engine that broke down on her. Another lady.stopped and told her she had an extra engine in the trunk.
Scotty you may have mentioned that if anybody pre fills their oil filter prior to installation it should be done through the small holes and not through the center hole
If you are pre-filling with new, fresh clean oil, what difference does it make? When you filled the crankcase with the new oil it has already run over the moving parts of the engine without that part of the oil being filtered.
@@ald8612 only as a precaution or if you are as picky as I am the filter filters from the outside to the center so if anything goes in from your container it will be caught in the filter
@@ald8612 this is especially important for fuel filter
@@ald8612 Not really.
Depends on the filter's position when installed.
Two oil filter gaskets do not seal twice as well as one. Make sure the old gasket comes off before spinning on a new filter. I learned the hard way.
I really enjoy Scotties Documentaries. He has the perfect voice and disposition or it. another great video Scotty, looking forward to the next one.
Scotty, I have always told people that the cheapest insurance you can buy to make your vehicle last longer is quality oil, oil filter, and air filter. Making sure to change them frequently is a must.
My dad taught me to do oil changes when I was around 12 years old. I've always done my own oil changes, except occasionally when I don't have time, etc. Just did one a couple of days ago
yeah, I learned the hard way to check, recheck, and check again, because in 15 degree weather here in TN when I was a teenager. I forgot to put the oil plug in my ford inline 6. I didn't know it didn't have any oil and drove 4 miles, ran outta gas and killed the battery on my way to work that evening.
Me and my dad decided to put 1 qt of slick 50 and 4 qts of 20W50 Castrol GTX motor oil in it. Drove it another week, because the damage was already done, the motor was doing 4,000 to 5,000 ram and only going 5 mph. When I made it back home and cut it off it locked up.
So, it's good to idea 💡 to always check, recheck and check again.
i use good oil and filter. change my own oil/filter. can change it quicker than it takes driving to place to have it changed. i have peace of mind
absolutely..there's no way I'm going to allow someone I don't know who doesn't care about my car to change my oil. It is not the top experienced mech changing oil, it's the youngest newbie in the shop..
@@land7776 understand, went with a friend to quick oil change place and salesman asked her if she wanted regular, part synthetic or full synthetic oil. Her owners manual said full 0w 20 full synthetic.
When removing the filter make sure the gasket comes off with the filter! I missed it once and my wife left with the car only to call me to say the oil light came on, but thankfully she pulled over immediately. I changed the filter beside a busy freeway and refilled the engine. There was no apparent damage. We were planning to trade the car and did so soon! I am 71 and have personally changed my oil since I was 16 except for one time when the dealer changed it and I had to remove the filter by driving a long screwdriver through it.. that was years ago, but enough to learn a lesson. I still enjoy doing most maintenance on my cars 😉👍
This happens more often than you would think
My wife was an office manager at the college. A professor asked her what is the red light that says oil. It's been on for a couple days.
@@richardbauer3327 when a guy was telling me about doing it I thought it would be very rare. I see some filters have a gasket that is pretty much captive in the filter. I dont remember it as being trouble in a full service Standard station in the early 60s. Its mentioned a lot here.I remember a few that were leaking because of not oiling the gasket and it wrinkled.
I guy once told me he ruined a engine by not removing the old filter gasket. He gave a little chuckle. His wife said and you think its funny.
I normally have a little crap around where the gasket makes contact. I wipe off the surface. It would be hard for me to miss a gasket stuck on.
I use to drive 20k mi a year most highway, and I would change synthetic oil every 14 k mi and oil filter every 7 k mi. Always supported by oil lab analyzed.
And I had great results. Still have same VW diesel engine, but I I drive much less and don't see the need. I chane now every 14 month or so.
How do you change the filter and not the oil?
@@hovojefe VW have the oil filter on the upper side of the engine, not at the bottom.
@@mopiktm9480 huh that makes it easy eh, I'm surprised more manufacturers don't do that. I suppose maybe just to keep the engine bay cleaner? Less chance of spilling oil? But then again the oil fill cap is in the engine bay, so... I'm at a loss
I Wish diesels were more popular here in USA. I have a 2017 Wolfsburg golf 1.8tsi
They discontinued the gasoline wagon here too :(
Oil used or not used still build up acids and water, still needs to be changed.
Yes Scotty, I had a Fram oil filter once and when I changed it, it was dry inside. No oil at all inside of it. I couldn't understand it. And the oil pressure light was never on.
I had the Franz oil filter where you insert a roll of toilet paper. Oil color was gold with every 5K oil change up to 150,000 miles when I finally sold the car.
How many years ago? In the early 60s?
How many years ago? In the early 60s?
@@harleylawdude Still available with more modern filter element as.well.
They used to hawk these at the LA county fair.
@@OldBob2 Filters that dont clean oil are sold. Filters that clean oil are hawked. The Australian Jackmaster is a better filter than the Frantz or Amsoil. I think It came here to go with the Gulf Coast filters. I googled it. Lot of information. No more oil waste . Probably be going on military vehicles. Some Gulf Coast filters are showing up on military vehicles. Portable systems are being used also. The oil change racket will still be with us for a long time. Its deeply rooted like a religion. My opinion is the Gulf Coast junior on the Humvee was too small. I would have put the same filter that they put on the Army 5 ton The Gulf Coast 0 1.
Allison Transmission found most foreign debris was introduced during the oil change. Make sure the funnel is clean and anything else that might introduce debris into the engine. Stick refrigerator magnets around/to the outside of the filter. Clean or change the PCV Valve that also keeps the oil clean and is overlooked by most.
As the miles get higher the oil change interval should be shortened. I run a Synthetic oil and have 281K miles on a 2010 Acura MDX, original engine and transmission. Something to consider.
Great video Scotty ! This video explains it all. I perform my own oil changes and always use a new filter. I also write the date and mileage on the oil filter with a felt pen so that I can check when the next oil change is due. I also write that information on the oil filter box top and put it in the glove box.
Thank you Scotty, from now on I will stop buying the cheapest filter I can find and pay attention to the quality and type of filter material. I gotta keep that '99 Camry running!
Excellent tutorial. Man i wish Scotty was my high school teacher. I would've done so much better.
I bought my 2013 f150 used.. and when i checked the oil it had 3 1/2 quarts out of the 7.7 needed ! after a well needed flush i use the Motorcraft filter and it's full synthetic oil.. i usually change it around 5k miles
Awesome presentation Scotty --- In the past I was all over the map with filters until I watched a comparison of filters and their breakdown and construction. That comparison was eye-opening.I highly recommend watching it. Just google oil filter comparisons. I now use Wix exclusively and believe it to be the absolute best. An inventor of the spin-on filter named Mr. Wicks was mentioned in your presentation and I'm wondering if there is a connection.
Pretty sure I've heard you mention Wix filters before Scotty and wouldn't be surprised if you use them yourself.
My cars have thrived high mileage by using Mobil1 Extended service oil filters and oil. Good for 20k miles. I change them out at 7-10k miles. 95% highway driving. Great products
Thank you Scotty from Hamilton, ON, CA. Love the content
Hi. I think Scotty made a content mistake at 05:45. How can a synthetic oil filter be effective at 24%? Correct me if am wrong? But isn't the synthetic one suppose to be a higher end than the cellulose one?
@@whenrosesfadeaway he made an error
yeah i think i'm gonna keep changing mine i have a 98 Chevy S10 that runs like new. i've kept it that way by doing PM regularly. put that in your dipstick.
@3:11 known as Wix oil filters. The only filters I will use. If you use Fram, you do not care about your engine. Fram is garbage. Napa Gold filters are rebranded Wix ones. Love the calm explanation Scotty.
The Fram XG is a very good filter.
The cheap Fram isn't so good at all.
..and yet there's no evidence that Fram filters damage engines or don't filter and that is with billions of miles of driving. Military and civ. airlines have been using Fram oil and fuel filters for decades, and they monitor delta pressure and particles constantly...along with regular phase inspections with trend analysis and oil sampling. If they were inferior it would have shown up long ago...
@@land7776
It's basically people making video's cutting apart different filter brands seeing how quality varies among brands.
I would use an Fram XG on my vehicles (and I do) but not the other Fram models.
I trust Wix & a few other brands too.
@@sameoldeh well, the old orange Frams , fuel and oil, are the ones I've seen used in aircraft for decades. As well as Mann, Wix, Hastings and others. Also in marine engines. There's no testing after millions of gallons/miles of data and trend analysis that shows a problem with them. If there was, it would've been seen and they wouldn't use them. But the Fram hate meme lives on I guess...
None of the full flow filters clean oil. I depend on my game changer bypass depth filter to clean oil. When I choose a full flow filter it will be on there a couple of years. I will be interested in how heavy the steel is. How good the bypass valve is. The paper ends are no concern to me.. They will last as long as the pleated paper. The last full flow filter I put on the Pontiac Torrant was a Wix. I probably liked the feel of it. The Motor Guards will do the cleaning and protecting the full flow filter. The tractor is a straight bypass system. It has a Old Frantz adapter. No full flow filter to worry about. The Kohler on the yard tractor has a Gulf Coast junior bypass filter to do the work and a cheapest Fram to grab anything big.
WIX makes a fine filter 👍
Always buy oem
Wix does the same as other full flow filters. They protect the engine from large engine damaging abrasives and let the small engine wearing abrasives and sludge build up in the oil until you drain it. The Wix full flow filter on my Pontiac Torrent has 61,000 miles on it and a little over 4 years. The depth bypass filter keeps it clean. I normally change the full flow filter every 2 years. The car doesnt care what brand of full flow filter is on it. None of them clean oil.
I saw where someone had left the same Oil filter on until the can began rusting through! That, and the oil resembled liquefied concrete. Gritty and grey. A 1972 Skylark, with pristine Leopard print console shift interior.
I heard that too! Change oil filter every other oil change! I always thought why change oil if your not changing the oil filter. Just my thoughts! I usually get into the 200,000 plus mileage range on my vehicles.
You're right and those you "heard" it from are "penny wise and pound foolish".
The spinner filter operates like a centrifugal fuel polisher for diesel fuel. That is one of the best things to use with high horsepower yacht diesels. Fuel polishing in Diesel engines is very helpful.
When changing the oil I once had to drive a large screwdriver through the filter body to unscrew it. Yes it was that tight.
I've had that fail too.
Me too, and in fact again just last week... A last resort.
I think that's why they tell you to wipe fresh oil or any kind of oil on the rubber
@@arlenmargolin1650 always make sure the rubber seal is on the old oil filter, if not it's stuck on the filter housing and must be removed.
@@HypocriticYT well you're right I remember somebody having that problem and ended up losing all their oil almost blew the motor up that is a good tip thank you
Back in1986 I changed the oil on my Toyota extended cab 4 cylinder efi 2.2 liter engine. I was on the interstate and my oil gauge flashed red. I drove 3 miles at highway speed to a gas station. I forgot to check to make sure the old o-ring was off. It wasn't! Filled up with a synthetic oil and went to work. Today the engine runs fine. . .
The last oil change I did myself I could remove the filter. I called my mechanic brother and he said it's okay to change it the next time I changed oil. He since gave me an oil filter remover (looks like a cap that connects to a socket wrench (don't know if that the right term for the tool) so I can remove it cause my dainty hands can't twist it. The funny thing is I was the one who put the oil filter on the last time. Guess I ate too much spinach the night before.💪🏼.
FYI. Do not use the wrench to install the filter, only use it to remove it. When installing one make sure to put some oil on the seal and just tighten it by hand. If you use the wrench when installing it you can damage the filter, threads or your engine.
@@josecuervo4423 Or better yet follow the instructions; A good filter will usually tell you how many turns to tighten once the gasket has made contact. "do it by hand" is just as imprecise as using a tool with no specification and a loose filter can cause catastrophic engine damage. Tighten it the *correct* amount. If you can do that by hand more power to you. If you need to use a tool that's fine too.
Ok I give up I can not reply to every post anymore Mr Toyota you Win , happy trails wish you the best Scotty my only advice is remember is nice to be important but is more important to be nice Chevy/dodge/Ford # 1 remember Japan don’t put food in my table god bless!!
One question, is there a special place in hell for the engineers that switched from screw on to cartridge?
You’d think the cartridges would be significantly cheaper but no
I prefer having a permanent, higher quality check-valve in my turbocharged engine (VAG EA888 1.8L tsi). There is no missed quality control, i.e. “lemon”, spin-on style filters to worry about. I just replace the oil filter media and 1 o-ring.
The oem filters are 5-8 USD a piece from online euro parts stores. I do Pentosin HP II 5.5L + OEM filter for $50-55...2x a year. Super easy to change the filter and zero mess.
Most spin-on filters are mounted upside down and removing them usually makes a mess, especially the hard to access filters you have to dance out of the engine bay/suspension area. Oh yeah my husband really misses the spin on Chevy cavalier filters...right next to the exhaust manifold 😂 been over a decade since he worked at a quick lube though haha.
Now plastic oil pans/drain plugs are a different story....ive already cracked and replaced mine with a steel pan and drain bolt.
Most engineers would rather stick to the spin on cartridge, high up executives would rather stick to higher profit margins. Toyota did use cartridge on some models then went back. (I think)
I like the cartridge filter that's on my Mercedes. It's right on top in easy reach. Not a single drop of stray oil gets dropped anywhere since I use a oil extractor to take out the old oil. I know Toyota has a cartridge type that isn't as simple. I will be dealing with that probably next year when I replace my '97 4 Runner with another 4 Runner.
I love the cartridge filter on our Hyundai. Right up top, super easy to change without making a mess, and you can visually inspect the media without having to cut open an oily metal can. Easier to check for leaks too.
I can the oil when it smells funky & darkens, indicating its become acidic & contaminated. I use the OEM filter during an oil change & change the oil while the engine is hot, thin warm oil drains more effectively. I also lift & lower the jack on one side to tip the car to help more oil get out & notice at some angles the flow rate increases, while the drain bolt out so oil goes into the drain pan where I collect spent motor oil. I put the spent motor oil into a container using a funnel to take the used oil to a local auto parts store for recycling. Charing the motor oil slightly more often will only cost a little extra, but if you going to keep the car for a long time & high mileage, a few extra oil changes can reduce engine wear & make your engine last longer ..
Take a paper towel, pull out the oil dip stick & wipe it off. Clean motor oil a light yellow color. As blow by from the engine contaminates the oil with acidic funk & particles, exhaust gas etc that slips by the rings even in good engines, the oil becomes darker & smells worse. If you wipe the oil on the paper tower & it looks darker & smells like HC or gasoline or has a burned funky smell, change the oil & oil filter early.
Love your videos Scotty!
It would be great if you would do one on which brand of oil filters are best, good and poor quality.
My brother's first car was a 1958 Pontiac with a cartridge filter. The first time I change it, I loosened the center bolt and hot motor oil ran down my arm, into my armpit, and onto my back. When I saw that recent cars had switched to cartridge filters, it brought back memories of that old car.
This is quickly becoming one of my favorite channels
Air cooled beetles, metal screen and magnet.
Which most people ignored.
Oil change stories galore.
Lady brought her explorer in for its first oil change at 60,000 miles.
Captain on the boat complaining low oil pressure. Cartridge plugged so bad it collapsed. Had to remove in pieces.
Countless double gaskets by DIYers.
Few missing filters, seized engines so bad had to drop pan and disconnect all the rods and loosen the mains just to turn it enough to unbolt converter.
Or the drain plugs falling out 2 miles down the road from service stations.
Don't miss it.
But those who were religious about oil changes and maintenance. 200 -300 thousand miles was not uncommon even back then.
Cheap insurance.
Very cool scotty. Thank you!
Scotty does mention the full flow n bypass n centrifugal oil filters, while the magnetic oil filter is exactly that as it only removes metals needing to be cleaned.
Keep up the great works, Scotty!!! Even an old wrench, can learn more...
Back in the 1980s when I worked in a well respected garage as a mechanic there was a older guy that had a 1980 ford f150 with a 302 engine and he would get me to service his truck and the oil change consisted of a motorcraft oil filter and one quart of valvoline 10w30 oil and he ran that truck 100,000 miles with no engine problems...every oil change was a filter and a quart of oil to replace what the filter had in it and the engine had no sludge in it if you people were wondering.
I serviced telephone trucks in the 60s. With the pickups they only changed the filters and added a quart of new oil. They knew when they traded them in the engines would be a sludged up mess but it wouldnt make them worth less than if the engine was pristine. Oils were not good in those days unless you used an oil like Standard Delo W 30. You could also get W 20 Delo in those days. I personally used a Frantz oil cleaner with Delo W 30. Frantz and Motor Guard were the game changers of the 60s. Frantz also had the FAA approved AeroFrantz. All I have now is Motor Guards and Gulf Coasts. They are the easiest to service. I dont need any more game changer filters. Was ordering a E C M for the Pontiac. Saw a Austrailian Jackmaster on Ebay. I'm curious about them. I've heard they are Australia's best oil filter.
I can see an engine going 100,000 miles with no oil changes changing only the filter and adding a quart of oil. I've seen engines so sludged up there was as much sludge in the engine as oil. It was probably caused by not changing the filter more than not changing the oil. Also oil in the 80s were better than oil in the 60s. My 93 Subaru Legacy had 116,000 miles on it when I bought it. Has 237,000 miles on it now. Shows no signs of engine problems. Got its first oil change since I've owned it the other day. Went to synthetic oil. It has Motor Guards on the engine and transmission. Those are the game changer toilet paper oil filters. The old F 350 dually diesel had over 300,000 miles on it when I bought it said the rancher pulling a large horse trailer. Pulled off the overhead Avion camper and sold the truck. Took it from Texas to Seattle a couple of times and to Florida. Lost interest. Always glad to get home.
Hey Scotty, I remember the Frantz “lifetime” filter with its “toilet paper roll” inside. I even recall the Prelin Electric Oil Refiner (now being peddled as PetroSaver). I also remember the extended drain interval claims made by Mobil 1 - even replaced a turbocharger on my 1978 Saab 99 Turbo because I believed them. 🙄
Frantz.actually worked. New.version has been.created while old school is still available. Watch a demo some day.
Mobil one dpecifixally recommended to NOT use extended drain intervals on turbo or supercharged engines....had a friend w z turbo Shelby front wheel drive car that learned the hard way about turbo cars....fun to drive but pure hell to take care of
@@johnervin1474 any idea WHEN that recommendation came out? I wonder if it was too many people with bad experiences like mine 40 years ago that caused it.
Never had a car with a turbo. There are over the road trucks with over a million miles with no oil drains that have turbo charged engines. Of course they have large bypass filters like the Gulf Coast 02 filter that takes 3 gallons of make up oil 5.5 gallons when the full flow filters are also changed. Pulled into.a Cummins shop once with a new truck with a screaming turbo. One of the big hose clamps had ended up inside a hose. Worked it's way into the turbo.
@@ralphwood8818 one more thing to fail (expensively). Boost more air and fuel into an engine, and you create more heat and stress. It had better be well built or it won’t last.
I have heard that if you use oiled gauze air filters like the K&N, you should change your oil filter twice as often to remove the grit. Oil can be changed at normal intervals, if you like.
Dang…. No recommendations.
My sister used to get her oil changed at the corner oil change shop faithfully every 3000 miles. I was going to change it for her, put synthetic in it with a premium filter. When I changed the filter, they had written the change date in marker on it. They were only changing her filter every other oil change but charging her for it.
Great job again Scotty!!!
thank you!
@@scottykilmer Scotty, can you PLEASE SAY WHAT THE NAME OF THE OIL FILTER THAT CHANGED THE GAME.😤😰😭😩🥵
@@scottykilmer What oil filter changed the game???
@@kenyareed3051 Pay attention class: It was "The Purolator", introduced in 1923 by George Greenhalgh and Ernest Sweetland (@2:32)
I tape two large magnets to my oil filter . Fram Premium is very good . XG9688 . $15
I use Nippon Micro Oil Filters. Made in Japan built like a tank.
Japanese build great stuff!
I got a story for you scotty. Was rebuilding an engine for a fella who said it was just time. We started taking her apart, draining fluids, disconnecting hoses and such and undid his filter... Well it fealt weird to me so I got the guys and we took a look inside... The metal was there, but nothing else. The filter system was all but gone. Dude had just gotten his oil done at a "jiffy lube" less than 2k miles 2months prior to this as per the sticker they put on his window. Well when we got into the engine we found so much debree we couldn't believe it. So we told him and saved him a full rebuild and just got it all cleaned up and with a few minor (inhouse) improvements and about $2 grand back in his pocket he was happily going down the road.