👉 Thanks for Watching! Subscribe and hit the notification bell for new vids daily: ruclips.net/channel/UCuxpxCCevIlF-k-K5YU8XPA ⬇Scotty’s Top DIY Tools and Products: ►Best Scan Tools: 1. Bluetooth Scan Tool: amzn.to/2nfvmaD 2. Cheap Scan Tool: amzn.to/2D8Tvae 3. Mid-Grade Scan Tool: amzn.to/4bLkN2g 4. My Fancy (Originally $5,000) Professional Scan Tool: amzn.to/31khBXC ►Best Car Jump Starters: 1. No Charging Required Jump Starter: amzn.to/3i7SH5D 2. Mid-Grade Jump Starter: amzn.to/2nrc6qR 3. Fancy Jump Starter: amzn.to/4c1O9JI ►Best Car Accessories: 1. Dash Cam (Every Car Should Have One): amzn.to/2YQW36t 2. Key Finder (To Find Lost Car Keys): amzn.to/3Yb6gd4 3. Tire Gauge (To Check Tire Pressure): amzn.to/3y8R4CE 4. Tire Air Pump: amzn.to/46hFfXs 5. Car Memory Saver (Use When Changing Your Car's Battery): amzn.to/3YmWQeJ 6. Car Odor Eliminating Rocks (Removes Smells in Your Car): amzn.to/3zYMFCP ►Best Fluids for Your Car: 1. NuFinish Car Polish (Use on Paint or to Stop Windshield Squeaks): amzn.to/3SjmYmA 2. Meguiar's Headlight Coating (Keeps Your Headlights from Fading): amzn.to/46l7kgh 3. Meguiar's Headlight Restoration Kit (Restores Faded Headlights): amzn.to/3zT9ojN 4. Meguiar's Car Scratch Remover: amzn.to/4faB3wJ 5. AT-205 Reseal (Can Stop Leaks in Your Engine, Transmission, Etc): amzn.to/3LCruJq 6. Invisible Glass Cleaner (Inside/Outside Car Window Cleaning): amzn.to/3YcElcL 7. ATS 505 Fuel System Treatment: amzn.to/3LXhEC9 ►Best Tools for Working on Your Car: 1. Best Small Flashlight: amzn.to/4fePFep 2. Best Expensive Multi-Use Flashlight: amzn.to/3WBxzft 3. Car Battery Tester: amzn.to/3WgEo4G 4. Basic Mechanic Tool Set: amzn.to/2tEr6Ce 5. Professional Tool Set: amzn.to/2Bzmccg 6. Ratcheting Wrench Set: amzn.to/2BQjj8A 7. CSCRI Impact Kit: amzn.to/4cOXF3T 8. Corded Impact Wrench: amzn.to/4bVrHlG 9. Electrical Circuit Probe (For Testing Power, Ground, and Shorts): amzn.to/4cTwMfp 10. Socket Extension Bar: amzn.to/4dedEsf 11. Small Sledge Hammer: amzn.to/3WzHsdj 12. Best Borescope for Seeing in Tight Spots: amzn.to/3zW3U7K 🛠Check out the other tools I use and highly recommend ► goo.gl/rwYt2y 🔥Scotty Shirts and Merch ► goo.gl/pTAeca 👉Subscribe and hit the notification bell! ► goo.gl/CFismN As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases.
Scotty Kilmer i have a hyundai sonata , started burned out car shut down while driving , battery worked fine , relay, fuses and replaced a mew started and before tighting everything down tested started and worked fine and after getting everything put together i went and started it again and it wanted to start but then it burned again what can it be ???
When I was 20 years old Dad Gave Myself some advice , Check ✔️ your oil Once a month , Change it every 10,000 Km , Check Coolant , Belts , tyres ,been Doing This for 45 Years , includeing Motor cycles ( 7 Km oil ) and good Quality Nether blown a Motor , Ps Dad gave me same advice with bying House 🏠 Pay 2weekly , pay when Can extra , First 5 Years hard , then it not much different to renting , also Drink 🍸 in moderation , don't smoke Well I owned a House , for 25 Years Life lot easier , like this man listen you Can learn so much RIP Dad Cheers Mark
Scotty, I swear that you're talking directly to me as if you know me. I didn't count but you repeatedly made it clear about the correct oil to use. I appreciate that very much. Things don't sink in like they used to. It goes in one ear and (passes) the brain and leaves out the other ear. You explain things so well that even I will understand at the end of your videos what you're talking about. Thank you Sir
Thank you Scotty as you’ve taught the average guy how to diagnose problems with a simple $300 scan tool. You’ve saved me thousands in repair costs over the past few years.
the more detailed and updatable the scanner the more you can diagnose and diy. From the ones I tried and have now a $150 ish and up are pretty darn good nowdays. From there from what I seen and experienced so far. There was a couple times I had to borrow one to track down a SRS issue which mine couldn’t read exactly what it was and it tracked down to the seatbelt buckle sensor which was awesome, I was hours looking into and testing because I thought I knew what it was but finally asked to borrow it. The other time was regarding abs and it was able to tell me exactly what and where (driver rear , speed sensor. I forgot what mine read but it wasn’t that detailed so it saved me time. That was a $2000+ scanner tho I wonder if there is a $300ish scanner that would have pinpointed exactly where and what it was exactly like that? If so heck yah it’s worth it and will pay itself off. ($300 to even $500/700 I would pay) $2000+ however I wouldn’t go that far , luckily I have access to one. I’m sure I saved at least $200-400 just on those two issues alone if I had to drop it off at the dealer etc. Definitely having a decent $75-200 one will easily pay for itself after one or two uses 👍🏽. Unless you’re lucky and have a vehicle that never needs one. The wife’s FJ we had since new 2006 and never ever had an issue yet 🤷🏽♂️, knock on wood. Had relatively good luck with most of our vehicles I like to mod my vehicles lol so that’s where it comes in handy too 😜
I already fixed my car after watching your videos, but, I'm still watching your videos for many reasons. There is more to be gained here than fixing it yourself. How much self-repair do I have to do before I can stop saying "Well... I'm not really a 'car' person but..." ??? I just talked to a new mechanic (had to move and find a new local shop), and armed with knowledge I gained from this channel I swear I was passing for a 'car person' 😀. The stuff I learned from you got me the most honest service I've ever had, and I felt super confident at the shop. The mechanic responded to me as if he understood that I knew what I was looking for (needed some specific transmission work on a Mazda) and everything was done and I got a great deal. Thanks for all of this.
My experience with the mass air flow sensor. I had a K&N filter, thinking, "Get the best for my truck. Well, after a while of running it, I got a check engine light. Couldn't figure it out myself and called my mechanic. He asked me a couple of questions, and when he asked when I last changed my air filter. I told him 5 months ago, and I spent the money on the K&N. He told me that they have figured out that the oil coming of the filter is coating the MA flow sensor. All I needed to do is get the special cleaner for it and clear the code, and I should be fine. He was right, but the problem is I had to do that every 5 to 7 months, depending on how much I was driving. After the third time, I cried wolf and took the whole K&N air filter system off. Put stock back on and didn't have any more troubles.
Former tech here. We luuuuuved check engine light on, MAF code, and there's the KN. Sometimes cleaning worked, sometimes not. And advised the customer to find their old filter and housing. PS a properly oiled filter won't make a mess and 90% of KN we saw were never oiled ever.
Had a KNM filter in my car for at least six years. Never had the mass ear sensor clog up pretty oil. All I can assume is you’re putting too much oil onto that filter you only need enough to coat the filter not soak the filter.
@roberthein2156 nope! Started after installation. So I thought like you did. May factory put too much oil on it . I cleaned it and reapplied the oil, and 6 months later did the same thing. Called my friend that is a performance mechanic and he said this is a very common thing with those filters. Tried the 3rd time, and it happened again. Gave up and put factory back on.
Here's the real truth with those filters. They let more airflow into your engine, which is where the supposed added horse power comes from. If it allows more air, then it allows more debris. The oiling of the filter "helps" filter the debris. So if your getting oil on your sensor, then guess what else is getting through. Long term use will shorten the life of your rings. The trade off, dollar wise is well NOT worth it. Stick with the factory filter. Oh yeah, I'm a retired professional mechanic with 45 years experience and have seen this many many times.
I drove a 1972 442 W-25, 455 Ram Air with the 308* cam from 1971 to 2000. I changed the oil quarterly & flushed the cooling system yearly. When it actually fell apart from rusting, the engine was just as good as the day I got the car.
I love you Scotty. I really do. You are a good man and brilliant teacher. The knowledge you share, time spent thoroughly explaining opinions, facts and history, and of course your character after all, means the world to me and I'm sure to all of your fans. People can learn great lessons from you even aside from vehicle maintenance. The best part is that you don't ask for payment, you give to us all and I thank you so much man. You have saved me time most importantly and Ive gained most of what I know from your channel. You're the man Scotty!
dude i have no knowledge on cars but this guy, this dude, he's fun to watch. i don't even have a car nor do i plan to get one anytime soon. This is just quality content.
Scotty, I love your videos and millions like me love them as well. That said, I have 2 suggestions about this particular video: 1) please leave links to the particular products you talk about in the video so the viewers can buy them and. 2) please break off segment 3 in this video (oil and oil changes). That portion is absolute solid gold and needs its own separate video, imho. Again, thank you for everything you do, Scotty and Happy Motoring, pal!!!!
I have been blessed with very good Mechanics. They have great knowledge. And live by the Philosophy, 'If It ain't Broke, don't fix it' and 'If they see a potential future issue, they will let you know'
That's great for you guys that are doing it and continuing to learn how to do repairs, maintenance and if course DIAGNOSING issues in the first place!!! I started around 10 years old, starting to do any and all repairs and maintenance to my little kx80 dirt bike **I was beyond lucky to have had an uncle that taught me the how's and why's of diagnostics and repairs from a very young age, the BEST teacher I have ever had, period!!!
My favorite work truck, 2001 Duramax 2500 had a K and N air filter when I purchased the truck. Ten miles per gallon around town (very light in the accelerator). Couldn’t sleep one night last week so I found a stock air filter and supporting parts in my backyard. After running stock air filter my fuel mileage has skyrocketed! Earning 16 mpg around town, guessing 18 or 19 on hiway. So refreshing to have a positive change in general.
I just used the 505 CRF Fuel cleaner and love it!!! 2015 CRV Touring, 212,218 miles at cleaning time. No oil burning. Mileage went from 22-25mpg best over the 4 years ownership from 98,000. Used Techron, Lucas, STP, Berryman and none did any improvement noticeable over the years. After 505, mileage high city Ave is 25.9mpg highway topping off at 31mpg numerous times. Worth every penny!!! Shipping only took 3-5 days. Thanks Scotty! Will be doing oil treatment soon. Current mileage 216,055.
I love how ol Scotty can school you at a level 10, then repeat it so nearly any competent person can at least grasp the concept!! Scotty is the car dad we all loved!!!
Scotty, about the ATS carbon cleaning system treatment..i checked their own website...both oil and fuel treatments both out of stock today... when Scotty talks people listen.
So what happens when in the same video he says to use that company’s oil cleaner and then in the same video says not flush your oil. Also, mentions he is impress by their fuel system cleaner, but the previous video (People say I am full of crap) says do not use fuel additives like fuel system cleaners and in other videos tell people to only use ones with PEA which ATS doesn’t have
@@robertt9342 I first thought this too but then I rewatched it and it seems he’s saying just don’t flush clean every time you do an oil change. Probably just do it once and see how it goes.
I thought Scotty died 🤣🤣🤣 bro , this man has helped me on every car I've ever owned since his channel started, I never had a dad, so Scotty has been my go to RUclipsr for dad advice (I will never have to pay a mechanic because Scotty and my hatred of paying $500 for brakes, when I can replace my rotors and brake for $120 myself)
Years ago...I had a 1965 Barracuda that still ran after 425,000 Miles-- The body rusted before the engine died... I also had a 1965 Newport with 325,000 miles on it
Simply doing common servicing upkeep on vehicles really really extends the life of any thing you're driving 95% of ppl never lift the hood they just expect them to go go go without any upkeep 😂😂
Brother s 65 Olds went over 300,000, Mom’s Olds, over 249,000. My Oldses are still running, 2 1983/s and 2 1985/s. Why? Frequent oil changes. I’ve since sold them, as they were rust buckets, only the bodies rotted and failed. Mechanically all solid. And still on the road with new owners. Current 05 Vue at 264,000. Frequent oil changes and TopTier Premium fuel.
The four cars I’m responsible for maintaining all take 5w-30. Run Mobil 1 synthetic with the matching oil filter in all of them. Change it out every 3,000. It’s already dirty at that point. Yes, it costs accordingly, but it’s been worth it, with zero motor issues in all four.
Also, I watch the people drive like idiots....one man said the truck will do what they show in the commercials, just not very long. Push the throttle easy, be careful, etc...
I use the Chevron fuel injector cleaner and only Shell fuel, it's the perfect combination. There's a noticable difference in performance in my vehicles and gas mileage if I use any other fuel.
It depends on driving conditions. Short trips with lots of stop and go are substantially harder on the oil, highway and interstate driving with a lot of steady speeds, moderate rpms, your oil will last 5K easily, especially if it's synthetic oil with a good filter.
@@packrat76 I think you missed the point; Changing the oil every 3,000 miles keeps nearly new oil in you car at all times, so it doesn't matter if you drive city or highway or if your oil will last 5,000 or more miles. Who care? not you, you change it every 3,000 miles no matter what.
So I'm preparing to do the oil change myself the next time after having it done by a mechanic at regular intervals. I see the start of the video with the additive added first to flush out the carbon and I think yes, that's a good idea, I'll do that. Then I get to end of the video where Scotty says that carbon is an important part of the ecosystem of an old worn engine. Which makes sense to me too :) I've a lovely Ford Ka from 2006 that starts on the button and generally runs great. Do I or do I not flush the carbon before changing the old for the new oil? Your input is appreciated
Scott, I sent my injectors from my '87 Porsche 944 to Injector Repair llc in Upstate NY. Tested, ultrasonically cleaned and retested with data for less than $100 for all 4 ! Big differences in performance 👏
**costs lots of YEARS of diagnosing and busted knuckles to learn it... Though it will cost you thousands and thousands of dollars getting it all repaired if you don't try doing that part yourself...
My Toyota Highlander hybrid now has 390000+ miles on it I’ve been changing the oil every 5000 miles & now I do it every 3000 Oil looks clean when I change it I was loosing half a quart on the 5000 oil change so that’s why I’ve changed to 3000 as she has a small rattle that’s started recently but seems to only do it if the engine is cold Engine doesn’t miss a beat & is as smooth & powerful as when I got it with 125,000 miles on it 4 years ago !! Fingers crossed she’ll keep on going !!
The best products I’ve found is made by HYDROTEX in Texas I used to own semi’s and one had a 3406 360 hp CAT engine . At 750,000 miles I took it to CAT in Pittsburgh Pa for an overhaul, when the mechanic took off the oil pan , they couldn’t believe how clean it was an almost no wear on the bearings so we decided to put it back together and run it till it dies. Don’t know when that happened because I ran it a couple of more years and traded it in on a new truck with a 3408 , 450 hp . Great videos Scotty, only wish you would take more time explaining the N A M E of the products you recommend.🤓
After the carbon flush on git they should put six ounces of marvel mystery oil at every oil change in my opinion. I just like it I been using it for 45 years in All my Engines and tell everybody who will listen I learned About it from a Great Mechanic and race engine builder and race car driver who Dominated the Dirt tracks in Louisiana for 30 Years. And we never had any sludge build up. But the trick is to use the Carbon flush you used about every 50,000 miles and flush your injections system the same 50,000 and Change your platinum plugs at every 50,000 cause they wear out. By breaking down metallurgy molecular. Proven. Cause my partner was crazy about his truck staying in tune.
@Peter Angles It disolves varnish and gum which can lead to sticking of lifters and piston rings. This is a quote that is fact. I've seen the results. Rislone Engine Treatment gradually dissolves and removes harmful deposits of varnish, sludge and gum from the internal metal parts without plugging oil passages. These deposits form within engines and can alter tolerances, stick valves and rings, cause noisy valves and lifters, and plug oil screens and passages. And my dad showed me some pretty nasty looking valve trains and nearly clogged oil passages. If you use it change your oil soon. Customer came back at 500 miles engine purring and we changed the oil again. Very filthy oil and filter was loaded but Rislone did the job. Used it ever since.
Rislone is really good, had a "faulty“ o2 sensor on my car, put it through and 1000 miles after the full cycle the light hasnt come on again, it cleans everything on the inside
Great video Scotty. If you have this mk5 GTI engine (FSI bpy), make sure you replace your "cam follower" at a regular intervals before it fails (it's a thimble sized piece between the high pressure fuel pump and the intake cam). 40$ part can same a lot of trouble if replaced.
The song goes "Scotty Doesn't Know" but I've followed this particular Scotty's suggestions for a few months and my 300,000 mile Toyota is still climbing the mountain I live on like a champ. SCOTTY KNOWS !!!
Scotty. Please clarify your position. In one video you were saying do not flush motors. Here you are flushing the motor oil. Which is it. ? And why its ok here? Thanx.
I use to use Castrol, but because of the expense I now have been using Supertech for about 6 years now. The viscosity stays good though 5000 miles. The reason I change it is because of the dirt in the oil. At $17.00 for 5 quarts, it is a lot cheaper that Castrol at about $23 to $27. I always use a Fram filter, at least a Tough Guard.
Scotty's explanation of inserting the piston reminds me of my Dad rebuilding his old M&M GB plow tractor, increased the HP a lot, good old tractor but the extra HP put to much strain on the bull gear so we had to change two of them.
When doing the oil system cleaner (1st one) , ESPECIALLY with a VW, BMW, or pretty much any other car, it also REALLY helps if you run a quart or 2 of new oil straight through the engine(before putting the drain plug back in) It helps rinse the rest of the carbon deposits and buildup through and out of the engine. I use something similar but a “step up” for work and the oil can come in looking all poopy and go out nearly clear as water.
what about leaving the drain plug out (after you drain the old oil) and with some extra fresh oil, poor it through the engine, it will gather all the dirty stuff, it will spill out the bottom. then after it starts draining "clean" oil. you let it fully drain out. and put your plug back, refill to spec and there you go you cleaned the old oil out but you didn't use any chemicals that would damage anything
@@08_crown_vic OR what about making an L out of a coat hanger and wind some cloth around it and stick in in the drain plug hole and twist it around to catch trash in the bottom of the pan ?
Scotty, my car(toyota camry 03) reduces in speed so quickly after removing my legs from the gas pedal. It’s very noticeable. In addition, it takes too long before it changes from the 3rd gear. It revs to about 4000rpms that I usually have to remove my legs from the gas pedals so as to not allow it go beyond that. My gas mileage has increased a lot. Please what do you think is wrong?
@@thestormtrooperwhocanaim496 Thank you so much. I changed it last year. I have used 20,000 miles with it. Though the high rev problem has been solved. My mechanic forgot to connect The Speed sensor circuit plug after he replaced my kickstarter. The check engine light later came up with the code P0793. That was how I knew. For the fuel injector, I will check it out too
Great material. Is this stuff different to engine flush? Only watched a vid the other day of you saying never to use engine flush which helped me make my decision. but this looks the same as engine flush really? Also no oil filter change? Is that because you change it after a short while with the new oil? Meaning two oil changes.
Lab analysis of the oil before and after the 15-minute treatment would scientifically show if more carbon has been removed and introduced into the oil. Even doing just a colour comparison of the oil before and after treatment would be helpful. Measuring the decibels before and after treatment would be helpful and present objective evidence.
Scotty, I’ve got a 2017 Ford Focus sel sedan automatic transmission with 65k miles on it. Bought it as is. Is it worth it replacing the automatic transmission fluid? I’ve heard of transmission problems after I bought the car. Anything else to help?
65,000 miles is the best time to change the transmission fluid. Most owners manuals on cars recommend 60,000 miles, or 30,000 miles under harsh driving conditions. Me personally, I never have flushed a transmission. Have heard many horror stories. I prefer the drain and fill method. Or have the shop drop the pan and change the filter, then top it back off with fresh trans fluid. And yes, the automatic Focus had many transmission issues, there is a recall for it I believe. They may have solved it by 2017, but I'm not a Ford fan. I don't read up on them much.
I got a 2016 ford focus the best advice I can give you is don't baby the car when your pressing the gas. Step on it don't go slow. My gears were slipping until I started driving it harder now it drives great.
Hi Scotty, if you change the oil filter just put a plastic bag over it and unscrew the filter. Most of the old oil will be catched in the bag and you won’t have a messy driveway. Cheers, Andy - The Netherlands
Hi Scotty, just watched the oil change/carbon clean part. Ok engine seems to run quieter after, but what about the engine temp when you first started it? some noises disappear as the engine is up to temp.
Acetone is an unbelievably good carbon cleaner. It melts carbon and dissolves it. Just don't use it anywhere near plastics and rubbers, because it damages those materials.
@@That_Handle "...all your gaskets and seals..."? Really nigel? All of them? You can be sarcastic without exaggerating beyond reason. You know, you already had me at valve stem seals...
Yo Scottie. I wish I had watched your video a month ago. For the 1st time in my life, I used sea foam in my crank case. The vehicle is a 95 Mazda b2300 with over 300k and still runs great. Sea foam instructions said," can be used in crankcase for 100 to 300 miles before changing. So I wen5the 300. I change oil religiously ever 3 to 4 months, regardless to my financial situation. I can afford oil easier than I can pay for a new engine. I guess I'll have to wait and see if this flush causes me any problems. Fingers crossed. Wish me luck. And, as always. Another GREAT video. Thanks chief.
All I can say is Your the best Scotty, I have learned a lot from watching your videos, Now for the big question of the day, What is the oil treatment do you use to clean out the carbon with?
Toyota has those exact same of oil filter canisters with the cartridge. I know bc my 2014 Camry has it. My GTI has it too but in the engine bay now on new models.
4:21 Next time remove the cap at the end of the filter housing and push in the plug to drain the oil from the filter. You won't splash oil everywhere. It seems like a lot of your issues with German cars is that you don't know how to service them properly.
Scotty, on a manual transmission how do I know I’m getting “good” results off my MAF? Mine the readings go far above and below my engine displacement (ought to be stable at roughly 2.0g/sec idling in Drive on a 2.0L engine) but I see mine all over the board as low as
@@mplslawnguy3389 I don’t have a super fancy scan tool that does graphing, nor do I trust myself to read & interpret it. I just wanna do the quickie spot check at idle and the procedure has to be slightly different for manual vs automatic
@@brucemorris3830 Hmm. I guess I didn't realize you couldn't read the data in a manual in neutral. There has to be a way. Possibly put it into gear with your foot on the clutch and brake?
As a female,not your typical waiting to see when I can get help, or wait till my car breaks down, or I don't know nothing just sit start and drive😂 uh no. I yes I,will fix it if its in my hands.I always come looking for your videos to guide me to fix my problem. Or sit and watch them and LEARN a LOT of new stuff.Been watching your videos for over 6 years.Thank you so much they do help.
Just want to say thankyou for this channel it's saved me a lot of money over time as you've thought me how to do so many jobs i'd have otherwise paid others to do. Lifesaver and i've learned so much !
Scotty, my dad bought a mid 90s Mustang that he called me about. Seems he got a 12 cylinder(I explained how the intake runners worked) so even though he counted 12 runners it was actually a 6 cylinder. He next told me he had to get rid of it because it ran " sewing machine oil " which after reading the article in MotorTrend about lightweight oils that myth was desposed of. And yes it is made to run over 200 degrees to help emissions so stop putting water on the engine at 180 because it is not overheating.
From my experience, and knowledge, you should run a short oil change interval after using an engine flush. This will rinse the engine out of loosened carbon and varnish, and rinse out the remainder of the flush. And like Scotty says, "not at every oil change". I agree, and would recommend every 4 to 5 years. The short oil change interval should be about 800 to 1000 miles. Even without the flush, this is excellent for an engine.
*Scotty what's your method on which scan tool you use? I see you use the Xtool D8 ( the reason I bought one ) a lot. But you also pull out the Think, or a lower grade Xtool.*
Hey, Scotty, us older Guys always “burned the Carbon “ out of our Engines by simply driving the Snot out of’ em, worked too! No additive, just good ol’ Sunoco 26o. 😜
My Rav4 was stalling at idle. I took the gas pump out from beneath the back seat and just changed the strainer on it. Not the filter. It was $5. It was completely full of crap on the outside and was never changed. It's been a year and runs fine.
A man who was a engineer for Vicker's Hydraulics told me that the change to paper air filters from the old oil bath air filter was the biggest factor in extending engine life.
That would be incorrect because not all cars used em and some cars still use em. The best way to extend the life of your engine is to replace the internal timing chain and change your oil while running full synthetic from 0.0 miles. Don't play Johnny race car, Don't tune it, Don't habitually floor it, don't idle it excessively, and don't run out of oil if it leaks.
@@djnone8137 hey man. I hope my 6 cylinder lasts a long time when I change oil, spark, and plugs when they need to be changed (early if possible) when it’s tuned and I floor it sometimes! One redline a day keeps the mechanic away!
@Peter Angles for one, taxis get serviced via gaskets Noone on Craigslist replaces. I grew up in a shop and found 1 used vehicle in my lifetime that had 1 gasket changed which was a valve cover . Two look at the engine of taxis. It speaks more of the engine design and not how its driven. Three: show me hundreds of taxis with 500k miles. You can't buy any car out there used with that many because almost none exist.
Amazing product. I wanted to see what it would do with clean oil. In a 2016 volkswagon tiguam with new oil, after 15 munutes ,2000 rpm I changed the new oil and filter again. This oil looked as if it had 10000 miles on it. The car runs better than it ever had. The car had 50,000 miles on it and the tailpipes always had this muck that built up. I suspect not running premium fuel was the culprit. My wife had since been using premium and i dont see it building up anymore. Great product ! Thanks Scotty.
That confused me in the video, what did he use, and why did he say in the later part to never use "oil flush products" or whatever? What's the difference?
German cars are big into the paper oil filters instead of the metal oil filter cans because of the recycling factor. The Greens party in Germany is very powerful and demand it, the whole car industry in Germany is pressured to make cars easy to recycle. I like it on my BMW and my VW TDI, because it's up on top of the engine and super easy to change.
Had good luck with oil flushes myself. If you use it on a ford modular 3v when it first has the cam phaser symptoms it will save you an engine. I have multiple customers with original engines and over 200000 miles.
Scotty , i wish all mechanics were like you . You are what all should be judged by !! Thank you for your knowledge sir. P.S. I love the sign above your garage!! Live free or die!!
You've done so much good for educating people and giving honest reviews on products that you believe in without incentives. I believe you should get the money for advertising. I know if I made anything for a car that works, I'd pay to have your name on it all day
Did the oil cleaner reduce the oil's viscosity and thus the viscous drag on the engine for a higher engine speed? Had the old oil's hot viscosity deteriorated over time, thus thinning out and offering less cushioning to the valve train parts for a noisier engine? I wonder if the engine's quieter running might have been due to the fact that there was fresh oil in the crankcase. The claims may have very well been true but, as you said, I'm very skeptical of the effectiveness of these magic potions in a can.
Scotty, what about sea foam? I've used it on old vehicles over the years. Just wondering your take on sea foam or should I save my money and get something else to clean the carbon.
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1. Bluetooth Scan Tool: amzn.to/2nfvmaD
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4. My Fancy (Originally $5,000) Professional Scan Tool: amzn.to/31khBXC
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2. Mid-Grade Jump Starter: amzn.to/2nrc6qR
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Scotty could you give us a link where we can buy the ATS chemical 505 CRO? I've searched for it but couldn't find it
Scotty Kilmer i have a hyundai sonata , started burned out car shut down while driving , battery worked fine , relay, fuses and replaced a mew started and before tighting everything down tested started and worked fine and after getting everything put together i went and started it again and it wanted to start but then it burned again what can it be ???
@@Romeois28b2 I did a google search and it came up, try that.
Could you make a video one time where you try to not use your hands for explaining anything? You know.... just for fun 😃
..
Love your videos Scotty!
Can you tell me what city and state you are in. I would like for you to look at my car. I need your help
When I was 20 years old Dad Gave
Myself some advice , Check ✔️ your oil
Once a month , Change it every 10,000 Km , Check Coolant , Belts , tyres ,been
Doing This for 45 Years , includeing Motor cycles ( 7 Km oil ) and good Quality Nether blown a Motor ,
Ps Dad gave me same advice with bying House 🏠 Pay 2weekly , pay when
Can extra , First 5 Years hard , then it not much different to renting , also
Drink 🍸 in moderation , don't smoke
Well I owned a House , for 25 Years
Life lot easier , like this man listen you
Can learn so much
RIP Dad
Cheers Mark
❤His soul always next to you.
Preach to someone who cares
Thank you for the message Mark!
Your Dad was a wise man
Hey brother
“Oil is cheap, engines are very expensive” has been instilled into my brain.
Not for long
oil is sometimes not so cheap in some place，such as china，often 40 to 60 bucks to buy 4 liters for a normal car
@@edwitsai still cheaper than engines but that is very expensive..
@@votivespark Still oil is cheaper than to rebuild an engine.
Oil used to be cheap let's go Brandon
Love this guy. No surprise he has a large following. A trustworthy, honest and knowledgeable auto-mechanic is priceless!!
The 3 things:
1:10 Get rid of the carbon inside the engine
5:52 air filter
11:43 engine oil
Thank you!
Engine oil AND oil filter.
Thanks
No, it wasn’t the air filter
Can i use Lucas Oil Fix?
Scotty,
I swear that you're talking directly to me as if you know me. I didn't count but you repeatedly made it clear about the correct oil to use. I appreciate that very much. Things don't sink in like they used to. It goes in one ear and (passes) the brain and leaves out the other ear. You explain things so well that even I will understand at the end of your videos what you're talking about.
Thank you Sir
There's a repeat bar. Lol. Just saying lol
Thank you Scotty as you’ve taught the average guy how to diagnose problems with a simple $300 scan tool. You’ve saved me thousands in repair costs over the past few years.
That's about a 5or6 hund dollar scanner I'd like to have one like it
@@dfls5069 yes, my scan tool is $100 and works great
Is there a short version?. I have disabilities... Can someone just tell me the pruducts he used the he liked.. Ty
the more detailed and updatable the scanner the more you can diagnose and diy. From the ones I tried and have now a $150 ish and up are pretty darn good nowdays. From there from what I seen and experienced so far. There was a couple times I had to borrow one to track down a SRS issue which mine couldn’t read exactly what it was and it tracked down to the seatbelt buckle sensor which was awesome, I was hours looking into and testing because I thought I knew what it was but finally asked to borrow it. The other time was regarding abs and it was able to tell me exactly what and where (driver rear , speed sensor. I forgot what mine read but it wasn’t that detailed so it saved me time.
That was a $2000+ scanner tho I wonder if there is a $300ish scanner that would have pinpointed exactly where and what it was exactly like that?
If so heck yah it’s worth it and will pay itself off. ($300 to even $500/700 I would pay) $2000+ however I wouldn’t go that far , luckily I have access to one. I’m sure I saved at least $200-400 just on those two issues alone if I had to drop it off at the dealer etc. Definitely having a decent $75-200 one will easily pay for itself after one or two uses 👍🏽. Unless you’re lucky and have a vehicle that never needs one. The wife’s FJ we had since new 2006 and never ever had an issue yet 🤷🏽♂️, knock on wood. Had relatively good luck with most of our vehicles I like to mod my vehicles lol so that’s where it comes in handy too 😜
@@dfls5069 nope. It’s very very easy. It’s called a blue driver. It’s blue tooth and connects to your phone through the app.
Wish I had such a honest and knowledgeable mechanic such as Scotty in my area to service my car.
I had one, he would even let me use his lift and tools. He retired a few years back. I doubt I'll ever find another.
Same.
Im sure you do. Just gotta find him or her
Im wishing the same a million times.
Same here!
I already fixed my car after watching your videos, but, I'm still watching your videos for many reasons. There is more to be gained here than fixing it yourself. How much self-repair do I have to do before I can stop saying "Well... I'm not really a 'car' person but..." ??? I just talked to a new mechanic (had to move and find a new local shop), and armed with knowledge I gained from this channel I swear I was passing for a 'car person' 😀. The stuff I learned from you got me the most honest service I've ever had, and I felt super confident at the shop. The mechanic responded to me as if he understood that I knew what I was looking for (needed some specific transmission work on a Mazda) and everything was done and I got a great deal. Thanks for all of this.
When I speed up Scotty’s voice on my phone by 2x it is incomprehensible. This guy has so much knowledge it blows the average mind
Sounds Russian or Cambodian 😂
This guys a fuckin wackjob amd a joke
That's when he is Theodore.
My experience with the mass air flow sensor. I had a K&N filter, thinking, "Get the best for my truck. Well, after a while of running it, I got a check engine light. Couldn't figure it out myself and called my mechanic. He asked me a couple of questions, and when he asked when I last changed my air filter. I told him 5 months ago, and I spent the money on the K&N. He told me that they have figured out that the oil coming of the filter is coating the MA flow sensor. All I needed to do is get the special cleaner for it and clear the code, and I should be fine. He was right, but the problem is I had to do that every 5 to 7 months, depending on how much I was driving. After the third time, I cried wolf and took the whole K&N air filter system off. Put stock back on and didn't have any more troubles.
I've heard about this too. My stuff is old, 90 GMC etc , so the K&N doesn't effect it that way, but I've heard this.👍
Former tech here. We luuuuuved check engine light on, MAF code, and there's the KN. Sometimes cleaning worked, sometimes not. And advised the customer to find their old filter and housing. PS a properly oiled filter won't make a mess and 90% of KN we saw were never oiled ever.
Had a KNM filter in my car for at least six years. Never had the mass ear sensor clog up pretty oil. All I can assume is you’re putting too much oil onto that filter you only need enough to coat the filter not soak the filter.
@roberthein2156 nope! Started after installation. So I thought like you did. May factory put too much oil on it . I cleaned it and reapplied the oil, and 6 months later did the same thing. Called my friend that is a performance mechanic and he said this is a very common thing with those filters. Tried the 3rd time, and it happened again. Gave up and put factory back on.
Here's the real truth with those filters. They let more airflow into your engine, which is where the supposed added horse power comes from. If it allows more air, then it allows more debris. The oiling of the filter "helps" filter the debris. So if your getting oil on your sensor, then guess what else is getting through. Long term use will shorten the life of your rings. The trade off, dollar wise is well NOT worth it. Stick with the factory filter. Oh yeah, I'm a retired professional mechanic with 45 years experience and have seen this many many times.
Scotty is a national treasure
World wide Treasure!!!
International treasure he has my Prestigious Cuban Cat seal of approval! 🐱👍🏿
We ALL wish we could live in his town!
International. Hello from oz
Ez Scotty & all Kru...
Shevy , Brighton, UK 💪😎
I drove a 1972 442 W-25, 455 Ram Air with the 308* cam from 1971 to 2000. I changed the oil quarterly & flushed the cooling system yearly. When it actually fell apart from rusting, the engine was just as good as the day I got the car.
What mileage did you get
@@orenJF At first, 6 around town, 11 on the road. I advanced the timing & then got 7 in town & 14 on the road.
I love you Scotty. I really do.
You are a good man and brilliant teacher. The knowledge you share, time spent thoroughly explaining opinions, facts and history, and of course your character after all, means the world to me and I'm sure to all of your fans. People can learn great lessons from you even aside from vehicle maintenance. The best part is that you don't ask for payment, you give to us all and I thank you so much man. You have saved me time most importantly and Ive gained most of what I know from your channel. You're the man Scotty!
Legend
True
God bless you Scotty
dude i have no knowledge on cars but this guy, this dude, he's fun to watch. i don't even have a car nor do i plan to get one anytime soon. This is just quality content.
Scotty you're a legend in the game! Youve left a whole era of mechanic knowledge on your page, Thank you! 🍻🍻
The man's a Sage.
@@Allplussomeminus A jazz sage?
I agree. I t took a long time to find a honest auto mechanic in my city. There is only one I found and the parts store definitely agrees.
What is the additive brand name you advise for older engines? Can't read the label in your video.
He is a Amazing man.💯❤😉👍🙌
Scotty, I love your videos and millions like me love them as well.
That said, I have 2 suggestions about this particular video:
1) please leave links to the particular products you talk about in the video so the viewers can buy them and.
2) please break off segment 3 in this video (oil and oil changes). That portion is absolute solid gold and needs its own separate video, imho.
Again, thank you for everything you do, Scotty and Happy Motoring, pal!!!!
God I don’t even know how long I’ve been subscribed to Scotty Kilmer, but he’s changed my life as a young mechanic to a middle aged man.
28 and im on the same journey
I have been blessed with very good Mechanics. They have great knowledge. And live by the Philosophy, 'If It ain't Broke, don't fix it' and 'If they see a potential future issue, they will let you know'
That's great for you guys that are doing it and continuing to learn how to do repairs, maintenance and if course DIAGNOSING issues in the first place!!!
I started around 10 years old, starting to do any and all repairs and maintenance to my little kx80 dirt bike
**I was beyond lucky to have had an uncle that taught me the how's and why's of diagnostics and repairs from a very young age, the BEST teacher I have ever had, period!!!
** still learning all I can still to this day no less, because to be an expert ya gotta learn everything ya can!!!
35 yrs
My favorite work truck, 2001 Duramax 2500 had a K and N air filter when I purchased the truck. Ten miles per gallon around town (very light in the accelerator). Couldn’t sleep one night last week so I found a stock air filter and supporting parts in my backyard. After running stock air filter my fuel mileage has skyrocketed! Earning 16 mpg around town, guessing 18 or 19 on hiway. So refreshing to have a positive change in general.
Just put KN filter on my Mazda 2, highest mileage was 54.5 and went up to 61.1 with the new air filter vs the OEM.
I just used the 505 CRF Fuel cleaner and love it!!!
2015 CRV Touring, 212,218 miles at cleaning time. No oil burning. Mileage went from 22-25mpg best over the 4 years ownership from 98,000. Used Techron, Lucas, STP, Berryman and none did any improvement noticeable over the years. After 505, mileage high city Ave is 25.9mpg highway topping off at 31mpg numerous times. Worth every penny!!! Shipping only took 3-5 days. Thanks Scotty! Will be doing oil treatment soon. Current mileage 216,055.
Ever try seafoam?
I love how ol Scotty can school you at a level 10, then repeat it so nearly any competent person can at least grasp the concept!! Scotty is the car dad we all loved!!!
Loved?? Is he still with us?
Can he do Prado fuel pump problem.
Scotty, about the ATS carbon cleaning system treatment..i checked their own website...both oil and fuel treatments both out of stock today... when Scotty talks people listen.
✏️✏️
So what happens when in the same video he says to use that company’s oil cleaner and then in the same video says not flush your oil. Also, mentions he is impress by their fuel system cleaner, but the previous video (People say I am full of crap) says do not use fuel additives like fuel system cleaners and in other videos tell people to only use ones with PEA which ATS doesn’t have
@@robertt9342 quit trolling
shows as can order now.........
@@robertt9342 I first thought this too but then I rewatched it and it seems he’s saying just don’t flush clean every time you do an oil change. Probably just do it once and see how it goes.
No wonder you have over 5 million subscribers Mr Kilmer! You know your stuff!
Do you have an uncle who's name is Roger....just curious
Lol ..not at all. I'm the last in my family name, alive!
where can i buy the first engine treatment?
I thought Scotty died 🤣🤣🤣 bro , this man has helped me on every car I've ever owned since his channel started, I never had a dad, so Scotty has been my go to RUclipsr for dad advice (I will never have to pay a mechanic because Scotty and my hatred of paying $500 for brakes, when I can replace my rotors and brake for $120 myself)
No idea what car you drive but I just did front rotors and brakes on my 19 Ford Edge myself and it was 320 lol
@@huskers1278 rotors and pads have gone way up, cost around 320 to do my rear pads and rotors yesterday but I did also have to replace a caliper
@stevenkunkle3857 They really have I put new rotors and pads on my Edge a couple months ago and I believe it was 360 dollars which is crazy
Years ago...I had a 1965 Barracuda that still ran after 425,000 Miles-- The body rusted before the engine died... I also had a 1965 Newport with 325,000 miles on it
Simply doing common servicing upkeep on vehicles really really extends the life of any thing you're driving 95% of ppl never lift the hood they just expect them to go go go without any upkeep 😂😂
Brother s 65 Olds went over 300,000, Mom’s Olds, over 249,000. My Oldses are still running, 2 1983/s and 2 1985/s. Why? Frequent oil changes. I’ve since sold them, as they were rust buckets, only the bodies rotted and failed. Mechanically all solid. And still on the road with new owners. Current 05 Vue at 264,000. Frequent oil changes and TopTier Premium fuel.
The four cars I’m responsible for maintaining all take 5w-30. Run Mobil 1 synthetic with the matching oil filter in all of them. Change it out every 3,000. It’s already dirty at that point. Yes, it costs accordingly, but it’s been worth it, with zero motor issues in all four.
What do you do to keep them running this far?
Also, I watch the people drive like idiots....one man said the truck will do what they show in the commercials, just not very long. Push the throttle easy, be careful, etc...
Scotty you the goat my boy! I’m working at Honda as lube tech now.And you’ve taught me more than they have the past year !
I use the Chevron fuel injector cleaner and only Shell fuel, it's the perfect combination. There's a noticable difference in performance in my vehicles and gas mileage if I use any other fuel.
If you change oil every 3000 miles, your engine will last forever. I own a car for 40 years, the engine is still running great
Over the past 24 years, I've changed the oil in my Toyota Corolla every 3000 miles without fail. At 278,000 miles, it's still running great.
It depends on driving conditions. Short trips with lots of stop and go are substantially harder on the oil, highway and interstate driving with a lot of steady speeds, moderate rpms, your oil will last 5K easily, especially if it's synthetic oil with a good filter.
@martinmummert5614 rookie numbers my 2011 ram 1500 has 300000 already and will probably last 400000 easy
@@packrat76
I think you missed the point; Changing the oil every 3,000 miles keeps nearly new oil in you car at all times, so it doesn't matter if you drive city or highway or if your oil will last 5,000 or more miles. Who care? not you, you change it every 3,000 miles no matter what.
@@pelon666Rookie numbers my 1998 BMW 328i has 396k miles.
So I'm preparing to do the oil change myself the next time after having it done by a mechanic at regular intervals.
I see the start of the video with the additive added first to flush out the carbon and I think yes, that's a good idea, I'll do that.
Then I get to end of the video where Scotty says that carbon is an important part of the ecosystem of an old worn engine. Which makes sense to me too :)
I've a lovely Ford Ka from 2006 that starts on the button and generally runs great.
Do I or do I not flush the carbon before changing the old for the new oil?
Your input is appreciated
Flush it before changing oil :). Trust me.
If someone tied your hands down could you still talk
😂😂😂
😂😂😂😂
No one dares to try it
Now That is funny
If someone taped your lips together, would you still make smide comments ? Maybe you talk with your hands as well, then some tyraps would look good !
Scott, I sent my injectors from my '87 Porsche 944 to Injector Repair llc in Upstate NY. Tested, ultrasonically cleaned and retested with data for less than $100 for all 4 ! Big differences in performance 👏
Oh my Lordy!!!
For fuel injector prices from my dealer $3500.0
It’s hard to believe I don’t have to pay 💰 for info this good! Pay attention folks, the education he is giving in these videos costs a lot of money!
**costs lots of YEARS of diagnosing and busted knuckles to learn it...
Though it will cost you thousands and thousands of dollars getting it all repaired if you don't try doing that part yourself...
I'll have to watch this video more than once to get all the info presented here.
Great video, Scott!
Or should I say, "Great Scott, Excellent video"?
Did you figure out what carbon cleaner he used lol
My Toyota Highlander hybrid now has 390000+ miles on it
I’ve been changing the oil every 5000 miles & now I do it every 3000
Oil looks clean when I change it
I was loosing half a quart on the 5000 oil change so that’s why I’ve changed to 3000 as she has a small rattle that’s started recently but seems to only do it if the engine is cold
Engine doesn’t miss a beat & is as smooth & powerful as when I got it with 125,000 miles on it 4 years ago !!
Fingers crossed she’ll keep on going !!
The best products I’ve found is made by HYDROTEX in Texas I used to own semi’s and one had a 3406 360 hp CAT engine . At 750,000 miles I took it to CAT in Pittsburgh Pa for an overhaul, when the mechanic took off the oil pan , they couldn’t believe how clean it was an almost no wear on the bearings so we decided to put it back together and run it till it dies. Don’t know when that happened because I ran it a couple of more years and traded it in on a new truck with a 3408 , 450 hp . Great videos Scotty, only wish you would take more time explaining the N A M E of the products you recommend.🤓
After the carbon flush on git they should put six ounces of marvel mystery oil at every oil change in my opinion. I just like it I been using it for 45 years in All my Engines and tell everybody who will listen I learned About it from a Great Mechanic and race engine builder and race car driver who Dominated the Dirt tracks in Louisiana for 30 Years. And we never had any sludge build up. But the trick is to use the Carbon flush you used about every 50,000 miles and flush your injections system the same 50,000 and Change your platinum plugs at every 50,000 cause they wear out. By breaking down metallurgy molecular. Proven. Cause my partner was crazy about his truck staying in tune.
Wooo. A new Scottie. Lol
Do you think I should do a carbon flush on my bmw 2007 328i it has 149k miles?
17:48 If you continuously use solvent based engine flushes . Use a detergent based one so not to harm seals , gaskets , etc
Can you name a few brands? Im learning
@@kemangraya2382AMSoil engine flush is very good detergent based
Ive always work on my own car and Scotty is the best he really does help on saving money and not getting scammed by a big name shop
I have a mechanic who is a good man, honest, and a great mechanic. If he only was as entertaining as Scotty, he would be all I could ask for.
I believe in Rislone.
Years ago while my dad was a journeyman auto mechanic he showed me the cleaning capability of Rislone.
Yep...me too.
@Peter Angles
It disolves varnish and gum which can lead to sticking of lifters and piston rings.
This is a quote that is fact. I've seen the results.
Rislone Engine Treatment gradually dissolves and removes harmful deposits of varnish, sludge and gum from the internal metal parts without plugging oil passages. These deposits form within engines and can alter tolerances, stick valves and rings, cause noisy valves and lifters, and plug oil screens and passages.
And my dad showed me some pretty nasty looking valve trains and nearly clogged oil passages.
If you use it change your oil soon.
Customer came back at 500 miles engine purring and we changed the oil again. Very filthy oil and filter was loaded but Rislone did the job. Used it ever since.
Rislone is really good, had a "faulty“ o2 sensor on my car, put it through and 1000 miles after the full cycle the light hasnt come on again, it cleans everything on the inside
What about MMO ??
My car engine ticks and I used a rislone lifter tick quieter in the past, but it didn't do anything
Great video Scotty. If you have this mk5 GTI engine (FSI bpy), make sure you replace your "cam follower" at a regular intervals before it fails (it's a thimble sized piece between the high pressure fuel pump and the intake cam). 40$ part can same a lot of trouble if replaced.
Every 10k miles. So have to pull off the fuel pump every 2 oil changes. If you can get to it. Horrible design too.
✏️✏️
You are a vehicle repair genius I sure wished you lived next door me !
The song goes "Scotty Doesn't Know" but I've followed this particular Scotty's suggestions for a few months and my 300,000 mile Toyota is still climbing the mountain I live on like a champ.
SCOTTY KNOWS !!!
Scotty. Please clarify your position. In one video you were saying do not flush motors. Here you are flushing the motor oil. Which is it. ? And why its ok here? Thanx.
what is the name of that liquid that Scotty pour into the engine oil ?
That supertech oil is cheap and works great in all my vehicles. Can’t believe the price difference when I shop at Walmart for oil versus Napa !
I use to use Castrol, but because of the expense I now have been using Supertech for about 6 years now. The viscosity stays good though 5000 miles. The reason I change it is because of the dirt in the oil. At $17.00 for 5 quarts, it is a lot cheaper that Castrol at about $23 to $27. I always use a Fram filter, at least a Tough Guard.
@@gpkidder the Fram filters are now Chinese made. Garbage.
Super tech was the only thing that quoted my lifters on my 03 xterra
Scotty's explanation of inserting the piston reminds me of my Dad rebuilding his old M&M GB plow tractor, increased the HP a lot, good old tractor but the extra HP put to much strain on the bull gear so we had to change two of them.
Good info. I'm gonna go out and buy ME a tractor
Lol
Just stumbled on this guy's videos. This guy is the best! I watch at 1.25x speed and it's truly entertaining.
When doing the oil system cleaner (1st one) , ESPECIALLY with a VW, BMW, or pretty much any other car, it also REALLY helps if you run a quart or 2 of new oil straight through the engine(before putting the drain plug back in) It helps rinse the rest of the carbon deposits and buildup through and out of the engine. I use something similar but a “step up” for work and the oil can come in looking all poopy and go out nearly clear as water.
what about leaving the drain plug out (after you drain the old oil)
and with some extra fresh oil, poor it through the engine, it will gather all the dirty stuff, it will spill out the bottom.
then after it starts draining "clean" oil.
you let it fully drain out.
and put your plug back, refill to spec and there you go
you cleaned the old oil out but you didn't use any chemicals that would damage anything
The new oil filter will catch it.
@@stoundingresults I meant before you put on the filter.
You keep the drain plug and the filter off for the cleaning
well, why not blow some high pressure air into the oil filler port, that would push any garbage in the bottom of the oil pan out too
@@gocanada9749 that's another great idea
@@08_crown_vic OR what about making an L out of a coat hanger and wind some cloth around it and stick in in the drain plug hole and twist it around to catch trash in the bottom of the pan ?
I really do appreciate all these videos Scotty, you're teaching me so much man
Scotty, my car(toyota camry 03) reduces in speed so quickly after removing my legs from the gas pedal. It’s very noticeable. In addition, it takes too long before it changes from the 3rd gear. It revs to about 4000rpms that I usually have to remove my legs from the gas pedals so as to not allow it go beyond that.
My gas mileage has increased a lot.
Please what do you think is wrong?
when's the last time you change the transmission oil and filter? also how are your fuel injectors looking? I would check those
@@thestormtrooperwhocanaim496 Thank you so much. I changed it last year. I have used 20,000 miles with it.
Though the high rev problem has been solved. My mechanic forgot to connect The Speed sensor circuit plug after he replaced my kickstarter. The check engine light later came up with the code P0793. That was how I knew.
For the fuel injector, I will check it out too
Great material. Is this stuff different to engine flush? Only watched a vid the other day of you saying never to use engine flush which helped me make my decision. but this looks the same as engine flush really? Also no oil filter change? Is that because you change it after a short while with the new oil? Meaning two oil changes.
What is the name of the oil to put into the engine ?
ATS Carbon Clean
Did I miss something or did he Not mention the name of the oil additive product ???
I’m looking everywhere for it
Lab analysis of the oil before and after the 15-minute treatment would scientifically show if more carbon has been removed and introduced into the oil. Even doing just a colour comparison of the oil before and after treatment would be helpful. Measuring the decibels before and after treatment would be helpful and present objective evidence.
Yeah, I was surprised Scotty didn't do a little more scientific experiments.
Scotty nos wat up
engine would be quieter based on the new oil alone. should have changed the oil first so that clean oil wasn't a variable in the noise test.
Think 🤔 Scotty and his boy r in cahoots 4 this product.
A man of science
Scotty, I’ve got a 2017 Ford Focus sel sedan automatic transmission with 65k miles on it. Bought it as is. Is it worth it replacing the automatic transmission fluid? I’ve heard of transmission problems after I bought the car. Anything else to help?
65,000 miles is the best time to change the transmission fluid. Most owners manuals on cars recommend 60,000 miles, or 30,000 miles under harsh driving conditions. Me personally, I never have flushed a transmission. Have heard many horror stories. I prefer the drain and fill method. Or have the shop drop the pan and change the filter, then top it back off with fresh trans fluid. And yes, the automatic Focus had many transmission issues, there is a recall for it I believe. They may have solved it by 2017, but I'm not a Ford fan. I don't read up on them much.
I got a 2016 ford focus the best advice I can give you is don't baby the car when your pressing the gas. Step on it don't go slow. My gears were slipping until I started driving it harder now it drives great.
Hi Scotty, if you change the oil filter just put a plastic bag over it and unscrew the filter. Most of the old oil will be catched in the bag and you won’t have a messy driveway. Cheers, Andy - The Netherlands
Can we get the name of that carbon eater fluid in the description, please?
Hi Scotty, just watched the oil change/carbon clean part. Ok engine seems to run quieter after, but what about the engine temp when you first started it? some noises disappear as the engine is up to temp.
Acetone is an unbelievably good carbon cleaner.
It melts carbon and dissolves it.
Just don't use it anywhere near plastics and rubbers, because it damages those materials.
So basically don’t use it in any modern car 😂
Can't use it then lol it will destroy seals and what not
@@That_Handle
"...all your gaskets and seals..."?
Really nigel? All of them?
You can be sarcastic without exaggerating beyond reason.
You know, you already had me at valve stem seals...
Your my car hero, thank you Scottie.
Hes a Legend. No cons no scams, he tells it in layman terms. I bet a lot of mechanics hate him 🤣
Yo Scottie. I wish I had watched your video a month ago. For the 1st time in my life, I used sea foam in my crank case. The vehicle is a 95 Mazda b2300 with over 300k and still runs great. Sea foam instructions said," can be used in crankcase for 100 to 300 miles before changing. So I wen5the 300. I change oil religiously ever 3 to 4 months, regardless to my financial situation. I can afford oil easier than I can pay for a new engine. I guess I'll have to wait and see if this flush causes me any problems. Fingers crossed. Wish me luck. And, as always. Another GREAT video. Thanks chief.
Scotty is the mechanic we all need
The oil explanation of labeling had me 🤣🤣🤣🤣❤😉👍Scotty Kilmer is so Awesome!!!
All I can say is Your the best Scotty, I have learned a lot from watching your videos, Now for the big question of the day, What is the oil treatment do you use to clean out the carbon with?
See my post below
What he say what kind
THANK YOU SCOTTY FOR THE VALUABLE INFORMATION TO KEEP MY CAR RUNNING AS LONG AS POSSIBLE.
Scotty is real legend.respect from Croatia.
Toyota has those exact same of oil filter canisters with the cartridge. I know bc my 2014 Camry has it. My GTI has it too but in the engine bay now on new models.
Chrysler uses a plastic one, too on the 3.6l pentastar engines so it's not just German cars as Scotty implied 😮
You make everything make sense, even for us ladies , thank you Scotty.
4:21 Next time remove the cap at the end of the filter housing and push in the plug to drain the oil from the filter. You won't splash oil everywhere. It seems like a lot of your issues with German cars is that you don't know how to service them properly.
Scotty, on a manual transmission how do I know I’m getting “good” results off my MAF? Mine the readings go far above and below my engine displacement (ought to be stable at roughly 2.0g/sec idling in Drive on a 2.0L engine) but I see mine all over the board as low as
☝️
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Seeking answers for a manual transmission scenario
Couldn't you just drive it with the scan tool hooked up and read that data?
@@mplslawnguy3389 I don’t have a super fancy scan tool that does graphing, nor do I trust myself to read & interpret it. I just wanna do the quickie spot check at idle and the procedure has to be slightly different for manual vs automatic
@@brucemorris3830 9
@@brucemorris3830 Hmm. I guess I didn't realize you couldn't read the data in a manual in neutral. There has to be a way. Possibly put it into gear with your foot on the clutch and brake?
As a female,not your typical waiting to see when I can get help, or wait till my car breaks down, or I don't know nothing just sit start and drive😂 uh no. I yes I,will fix it if its in my hands.I always come looking for your videos to guide me to fix my problem. Or sit and watch them and LEARN a LOT of new stuff.Been watching your videos for over 6 years.Thank you so much they do help.
Just want to say thankyou for this channel it's saved me a lot of money over time as you've thought me how to do so many jobs i'd have otherwise paid others to do. Lifesaver and i've learned so much !
Scotty, my dad bought a mid 90s Mustang that he called me about. Seems he got a 12 cylinder(I explained how the intake runners worked) so even
though he counted 12 runners it was actually a 6 cylinder. He next told me he had to get rid of it because it ran " sewing machine oil " which after reading the article in MotorTrend about lightweight oils that myth was desposed of. And yes it is made to run over 200 degrees to help emissions so stop putting water on the engine at 180 because it is not overheating.
Tell him to count spark plugs next time. Not runners, not valves, not bolts on the head lol
From my experience, and knowledge, you should run a short oil change interval after using an engine flush. This will rinse the engine out of loosened carbon and varnish, and rinse out the remainder of the flush. And like Scotty says, "not at every oil change". I agree, and would recommend every 4 to 5 years.
The short oil change interval should be about 800 to 1000 miles. Even without the flush, this is excellent for an engine.
*Scotty what's your method on which scan tool you use? I see you use the Xtool D8 ( the reason I bought one ) a lot. But you also pull out the Think, or a lower grade Xtool.*
Hey, Scotty, us older Guys always “burned the Carbon “ out of our Engines by simply driving the Snot out of’ em, worked too!
No additive, just good ol’ Sunoco 26o.
😜
My Rav4 was stalling at idle. I took the gas pump out from beneath the back seat and just changed the strainer on it. Not the filter. It was $5. It was completely full of crap on the outside and was never changed. It's been a year and runs fine.
Rev your engines!! A true master mechanic! Plus darn pretty good economist! Been with ya since before 50k subs, keep up the amazing info Scotty!
A man who was a engineer for Vicker's Hydraulics told me that the change to paper air filters from the old oil bath air filter was the biggest factor in extending engine life.
That would be incorrect because not all cars used em and some cars still use em.
The best way to extend the life of your engine is to replace the internal timing chain and change your oil while running full synthetic from 0.0 miles.
Don't play Johnny race car, Don't tune it, Don't habitually floor it, don't idle it excessively, and don't run out of oil if it leaks.
@@djnone8137 hey man. I hope my 6 cylinder lasts a long time when I change oil, spark, and plugs when they need to be changed (early if possible) when it’s tuned and I floor it sometimes! One redline a day keeps the mechanic away!
@Peter Angles for one, taxis get serviced via gaskets Noone on Craigslist replaces. I grew up in a shop and found 1 used vehicle in my lifetime that had 1 gasket changed which was a valve cover .
Two look at the engine of taxis. It speaks more of the engine design and not how its driven.
Three: show me hundreds of taxis with 500k miles. You can't buy any car out there used with that many because almost none exist.
Scotty’s three solutions:
1. Buy a Toyota
2. Buy a Toyota
3. Buy a Toyota
No question he has a preference here, but who doesn't?
I just did.
Amazing product.
I wanted to see what it would do with clean oil.
In a 2016 volkswagon tiguam with new oil, after 15 munutes ,2000 rpm I changed the new oil and filter again.
This oil looked as if it had 10000 miles on it.
The car runs better than it ever had.
The car had 50,000 miles on it and the tailpipes always had this muck that built up.
I suspect not running premium fuel was the culprit.
My wife had since been using premium and i dont see it building up anymore. Great product !
Thanks Scotty.
I can't find the name of the product anywhere on this video.
Can you tell me what it was?
That confused me in the video, what did he use, and why did he say in the later part to never use "oil flush products" or whatever? What's the difference?
Hi can you please name the chemical you poured in Volkswagen before changing oil? Thanks.
Scotty, I just wanna thank you for helping me with my car troubles before I have them!
Love how the VW is engineered to get oil all over the place when changing the filter.
German cars are big into the paper oil filters instead of the metal oil filter cans because of the recycling factor. The Greens party in Germany is very powerful and demand it, the whole car industry in Germany is pressured to make cars easy to recycle. I like it on my BMW and my VW TDI, because it's up on top of the engine and super easy to change.
Where can I find the brand of carbon cleaner you added to the oil? What is it?
Had good luck with oil flushes myself. If you use it on a ford modular 3v when it first has the cam phaser symptoms it will save you an engine. I have multiple customers with original engines and over 200000 miles.
Scotty , i wish all mechanics were like you . You are what all should be judged by !! Thank you for your knowledge sir.
P.S. I love the sign above your garage!!
Live free or die!!
Hi Scotty!! Another great video I need to maintain my 2018 Honda Fit. I always watch your videos for your helpful great tips.☺️👍
Scotty is one hammah!
"SCOTTY"! How do I know when it's time to change my "dilithium crystals" on my Starship 1701 NCC?
You've done so much good for educating people and giving honest reviews on products that you believe in without incentives. I believe you should get the money for advertising. I know if I made anything for a car that works, I'd pay to have your name on it all day
Lo the way you take the time to explain things simply.
5:49 air filter
11:44 oil
Did the oil cleaner reduce the oil's viscosity and thus the viscous drag on the engine for a higher engine speed? Had the old oil's hot viscosity deteriorated over time, thus thinning out and offering less cushioning to the valve train parts for a noisier engine? I wonder if the engine's quieter running might have been due to the fact that there was fresh oil in the crankcase.
The claims may have very well been true but, as you said, I'm very skeptical of the effectiveness of these magic potions in a can.
Well it was running quieter with brand new oil in it with no cleaner whatsoever.
How do you set the idle to run at 2000 like that?
Scotty, what about sea foam? I've used it on old vehicles over the years. Just wondering your take on sea foam or should I save my money and get something else to clean the carbon.
Such great knowledge, right there! Thx, Scotty!