To answer your question about the rotor plates- gm has a outside vendor that casts the pump bodies and covers and after the casting process are what's called spot faced! Quality control pulls a few of every batch run for tolerances. Far from a blueprint but they work.
Here’s something I don’t know,what about if you bore all the block oil passages out and open drain back area’s and run a 7 qt pan and possibly even an oil cooler.do you think a hi volume/hi pressure pump with a 70 lb spring is good?
Agreed on the pumps being fine unless a catastrophic failure. And yep their never flat all could use a port job too. I normally take some lapping compound to em too. I bought a truck with a rod knock once the pickup had just fell off hitting on crank. Do you know if that pioneer bracket will fit the 3/4 pickups? Was looking at jegs one didn't realize pioneer made 1 too. But it says for 5/8" pickup. I'm changing out my hv pump out because its sucking pan dry at higher rpms in a 4x4 for a reg m155 and wanna put more support on the pickup because it's really long and I'm extremely rough on it curious do you know if that fits the 3/4" pickups?
The only thing that can go wrong with a used one is the spring get weak,on a new one well quality control isn’t worth a damn any more but usually the clearances and debur ring and still check the pressure.i can’t believe what I see on You/Tube with people building first time motors and don’t even buy a book
I don't see how your getting an accurate reading on the depth of the gears. A depth Mike is not that expensive. Also, I didn't see you drill ONE .. 1/8" HOLE in it's idler gear. This pressure feeds oil to the shaft it spins on !!! If you drilled 2 holes there'd be an internal leak, so just ONE. Be sure to do the exit port and main cap feed hole as well (I also chamfer it). Check alignment of oil passage to block to achieve better match. NOW...the pump is blueprinted. There's other stuff to do to cove..groove it. It's beyond scope here to show this. This eliminates chatter, which can cause Spark Scatter, as oil pump DRIVES your distributer. Source "Smokey Younicks power secrets . BILL Jenkins also outlines these procedures in his books.
This is outstanding analysis
Excellent video, content and delivery great.
To answer your question about the rotor plates- gm has a outside vendor that casts the pump bodies and covers and after the casting process are what's called spot faced! Quality control pulls a few of every batch run for tolerances. Far from a blueprint but they work.
Never knew this info. Thank you
Thank you for tuning in stay tuned
Here’s something I don’t know,what about if you bore all the block oil passages out and open drain back area’s and run a 7 qt pan and possibly even an oil cooler.do you think a hi volume/hi pressure pump with a 70 lb spring is good?
Agreed on the pumps being fine unless a catastrophic failure. And yep their never flat all could use a port job too. I normally take some lapping compound to em too. I bought a truck with a rod knock once the pickup had just fell off hitting on crank. Do you know if that pioneer bracket will fit the 3/4 pickups? Was looking at jegs one didn't realize pioneer made 1 too. But it says for 5/8" pickup. I'm changing out my hv pump out because its sucking pan dry at higher rpms in a 4x4 for a reg m155 and wanna put more support on the pickup because it's really long and I'm extremely rough on it curious do you know if that fits the 3/4" pickups?
Thank you for the video. Is this similar process for SBF? Looks like pickup tube on 302 Ford bolts to pump so assume no need to weld?
nothing gets my motor running like a tight pump !
The only thing that can go wrong with a used one is the spring get weak,on a new one well quality control isn’t worth a damn any more but usually the clearances and debur ring and still check the pressure.i can’t believe what I see on You/Tube with people building first time motors and don’t even buy a book
I don't see how your getting an accurate reading on the depth of the gears.
A depth Mike is not that expensive.
Also, I didn't see you drill ONE .. 1/8" HOLE in it's idler gear.
This pressure feeds oil to the shaft it spins on !!!
If you drilled 2 holes there'd be an internal leak, so just ONE.
Be sure to do the exit port and main cap feed hole as well (I also chamfer it). Check alignment of oil passage to block to achieve better match.
NOW...the pump is blueprinted.
There's other stuff to do to cove..groove it.
It's beyond scope here to show this.
This eliminates chatter, which can cause Spark Scatter, as oil pump DRIVES your distributer.
Source "Smokey Younicks power secrets .
BILL Jenkins also outlines these procedures in his books.
What size feeler guage was that you put down in between the gear and the housing?