Hey buddy, Happy 2022 to you, too! I just bought myself a Christmas present; a 1994 LHD Twin Turbo 1JZ-GTE Soarer/SC300 project. It’s incomplete but it runs and drives so well! The stock twins are seemingly always in boost. My 1990 MR2 Turbo and my 1994 Celica Turbo have finally met their big brother! Still got the LS400 holding down daily duties so my dream garage is finally complete! Just wanted to share that with someone who can relate. Great content, as usual. Your MR2 is getting nothing but the best. Love to see it.
@@negativeindustrial Now the "only" drawback to that is that you need a new dream to look forward to or life pretty fast goes on pointlessly fast without purpose. 😲
Something to remember, use some sort of protected oil lines. I had one of these kits installed on my Cummins swapped F350. One oil line rubbed a hole in itself and ruined the motor. Truck has been down since July waiting on parts and I'm 14k into the project. All of this could have been avoided had I have used a protected oil line. It's been a life lesson with zeros behind it.
it's good that your informing others from your experience so that other car enthusiasts can avoid such incidents and well 14k ain't no joke but on the bright side you learned something from your mistakes which is always a good thing :)
@@petermolnar8667 it's actually got a gauge on it but I didn't catch it. I'm thinking of either a low oil pressure shutdown switch or a shift light sized idiot light. Probably go with the light.
@@psk5746 the lines are about 7 feet long. They were running down the top of the frame rail and held into position with very wide zip ties. I thought would be a fairly safe place to be. It was just the weight of the lines on top of the frame along with the vibration that wore through the soft lines.
If you ever come to New Zealand, pop in to MRP. Barry(the owner) is one of the best people in the industry to deal with. Always a joy to visit him for 4age related parts.
It is often a good idea to relocate filter as that gives the ability to pick up pressurized oil for a turbo or charger, to install oil temp and oil pressure sensors, and to install oil cooler to prevent overheat as well. Almost mandatory for every performance oriented engine mods
@@dq2023 they have to design and build cars to a price point, rather that excellent enginering. Except for some German cars, where the Goverment support the auto industry through education & funding of science & research.
I relocated the filters on my S-10 and my Isuzu Trooper. I also switched the filter to a large and common Chevy V8 filter. The filter was more than double the size but cost the same. I mainly did the relocation because the filter sat at a 45° angle and would get oil all over the exhaust and frame when changing oil. Plus if you did a change on a hot engine there was a 99% chance you were burning your arm. I located the filter under the hood and moved the sensors to the mounting pad so they were away from exhaust heat. I can now change the filter easily with good lighting and no awkward gymnastics. I can also fill the filter with oil, which takes close to 1L, and avoid a dry startup.
@@amarularif3110 No it was a 2.8L Gas engine which was a General Motors 60 Degree V6. The main reason to start doing the swap was the leaky oil cooler lines which were discontinued so there was no real hope of salvaging the system so the remote filter made way more sense.
I don't even own a car but still comes back to watch every video. Your knowledge could never be too much, whatever it is about, and whether or not you own a car or not. 👍
To prevent dry starts after the engine hasn't been started for a while, an electric oil pump can be installed between the engine and filter triggered by a remote switch inside the car. Turn on ignition, run the pump for 10-20 seconds or so and oil pressure will build before the engine is fired up.
@@slypig24 No I don't unfortunately. I got the idea from a friend who rigged up a pump for his TVR. It was fitted with the Ford V6. Sometimes it wouldn't be used for months but the electric pump would bring the oil pressure up before starting. There's likely a big market for something like this if someone could produce a kit.
@@starmc26 of course there will- it takes time for an engine to build oil pressure- even if it's for half a second- that's half a second multiplied by ever time you start your car. It's really not a difficult concept to understand.
I relocated the filter on my 2004 Mercury Marauder because the crossmember and rack would get drowned when the filter was changed. Also, it allows the smaller FL820s filter to be replaced with a larger FL1a, plus adds 1 more quart of capacity. Mine was for convenience but this video is spot on and very informative.
Thank you so much for this video!! I've been looking at a relocation kit for the purpose of adding an oil cooler for a long time now, and wasn't sure if it would actually be worth the time, money, and effort to do so. I also wasn't sure exactly where to put it if I did. Thank you again for this video and all of the other amazing and informative videos that you do!
Revisiting this a year later because I just bought a 1977 Datsun 620 and I can't wait to start a frame-up restoration with a new, fully built, motor! Some great info here!
That's really great. I didn't know there were thermostatic bypass devices for the oil cooler and never stopped to think about the filter mounting point level. level.
Great video as always. I'd like to add that if you add the relocation kit and mount your filter close to the engine oil drain plug, it makes for faster and cleaner oil changes!
a union fitting. probably the only thing that i'll ever know that you'd forgot. 🙂 happy new year and thank you for your channel - it is absolutely top notch! 🥳🥳
Great timing! The SR20 in my NX2000 has the oil filter literally inaccessible without taking apart the whole engine bay, as well as pouring all over the engine when it comes out, so I bought a relocator kit to fix both of those issues.
Hey man, I really appreciate your content and the work that goes into it. I had the same clearance issue on my 98 celica. An aftermarket oil filter is a great improvement. The HUBB filter features a secondary filter for the bypass valve. It's stainless and washable with warranty. I would highly recommend it! Thanks again for the awesome videos.
Thank you for another interesting video! To the last point of the engine running without proper lubrication. I'm wondered why there is not an electrical oil pump for pre-lubrication of the engine before start 🤔
I'm a simple man; I see a D4A upload, I watch, I press like. This is nice but that stuff you added is +10 lbs, not to mention adds clutter in the engine bay! Lucky for me, my car's oil filter is RIGHT on top, the easiest to access out of any vehicle I have ever owned. 🙂 #N54
I have a system with a large oil cooler and 2 filters the oil filters are right next to the oil pan one filter to filter the oil and the 2nd filter is for any residual debris in the cooler and anything the first oil filter did not remove it's like a bypass filter but it is right on the engine the oil cooler is a oil to water cooler
Learned some cool stuff. I'd also like to point out, there's also the option of a heat exchanger instead of an oil cooler waaaay up in front. Shorter lines, less pressure lost in the lines. You do have to plumb some coolant lines though.
The heat exchange also has the benefit of warming the oil in low temperatures, and is arguably better than the thermostat and cooler combination since it tries to equalize the oil with coolant temperature. Dumps heat in the radiator though.
One of the reasons tuners use a separate cooler instead of a heat exchanger is that you free up some cooling capacity of the radiator, without fitting an upgrade. Normally, it would have to deal with both the heat of the coolant and oil, and with some extra power/under higher loads this could lead to overheating, fitting a separate oil cooler is just a way of increasing the overall cooling capacity
@@petermolnar8667 While that is true, an oil/air heatexchanger is suboptimal in case of the MR2 (all 3 generations) there is no good point to mount it. The side air intakes are too small and would result in higher engine bay temperatures. Front mounting would require some absurdly long lines and taking air from below would clog up or damage the oil cooler quickly. So for a turbocharged MR2, it makes more sense to use an oil/water heatexchanger and upgrade the water/air heat exchanger seperately. Besides, the water/air heatexchanger needs an upgrade anyway when you turbocharge the car, so this doesn't realy affect costs much because you'll need to get a new one anyway. Sidenote: At least the EUDM MK3 came with an oil/water heatexchanger from the factory due to the expected long periods of WOT on the Autobahn and the resulting high oil temperatures.
Upgrading oil pump is probably a good idea if doing this and make sure cooler can flow good enough for the application. For very cold weather consider the extra distance the oil will have to travel to get to where it’s going. Usually not very much of a difference but it can be considerable bellow freezing.
With an oil filter that sits with the thread side pointing up, so that inlet and outlet are pointing upwards, there is no risk of the oil draining out of it. It might run down out of the feed lines in that style set up if the lines are high but not the filter.
I was hoping that someone would point that out as it's not clarified here that the anti-drainback valve is designed for filters mounted horizontally or upside down.
Good info to know. Liked this video and how you explained about how you can starve an engine of oil by placing the filter in a wrong location and how the cooler reacts with oil filter .
Thanks for showing this item. I would like to relocate mine to a logical position. Right now it's designed to drip on every single thing under the hood when I spin it off. 👍
Awesome, I used the GREDDY thermostatic sandwich plate with an ebay relocation kit that looks exactly like that one in design. It works great on my 2ZR-FAE, that engine doesn't have room around the filter housing to fit the AN fittings, probably with the banjo fittings I could've done it, but even then the greddy plate didn't replicate the filter well enough and would not catch the threads on the oil filter housing, so I set it up just like you did on this video. I can't recommend using thread sealant enough before you run any oil through the lines, it definitely will leak even though it uses NPT fittings. My engine averages 50PSI on cold starts, so the oil pressure builds up way before my oil gauge boots up which is in less than a second.
Your timing couldn't have been more perfect on this one. I'm about to relocate mine as well. Adding an oil temp and pressure sensor as well whilst I'm at it.
Love to see parts go on that are a perfect fit. I got a replacement radiator that was 99% the same, the 1% difference was the size of the inlet and outlet so the stock hoses didn't quite fit comfortably back on. Maybe turning over the engine without spark for a bit would prime engines without as much ware for extreme setups?
Where... Was very helpful. My integra has a filter as you showed in your demo. I find it annoying to access but now I know that it's actually going to be to the detriment to the engine if I put it where I wanted it.
I work more with diesel engines rather than gas engines, but what about using an oil to coolant heat exchanger rather than an air cooler? These typically have a higher heat capacity than an air cooler, can be pretty compact, and prevent over cooling, in most cases not requiring a thermostat. You can even get one that sandwiches in between the filter and filter head, so no additional plumbing needed.
Great video. But i have read about the fact that if you get the size of the oil filter wrong, it can cause problems related to the oil presure. Or something like that. Considering this video, where you can add a ton of extra stuff and pipes and increase the amount of oil needed, can only mean that using a slighty larger (or smaller) oil filter in the original location, doesn't cause any problems at all. I hate the internet sometimes.
My oil filter is on the opposite side of the engine. The advantage by relocation the filter is you can use the Oil filter as a cooler by putting in it direct air stream.
As always bro love the knowlage bombs bro ... ty this is the next thing I need to do to my build ( I got a 1.6 miata that I have bored 30 thou over and forged naxpeedingrods like u use and supertech 8-1 pistons and rinds a fluid damper and acl and king race bearings and thrust washers ... the head is next n I been watch your vids thinking if trying to portmatch and all myself ) again thanks for the knowlage my brotha peace n love and I can't weight to see the mr2 when it driving broski 🤘🏼💪🏽✌🏽
I remotely relocated my oil filter on my v8 e30. Used a block adaptor with -10an fittings mounted thr filter and new housing down under the chassis leg and connected the two with nice braided oil lines. No need for a cooler where it is now as it's down in a nice stream of cool air 😎
If the car is sat for along time and you’re that worried about a second without oil with 0 load. Then look in your Manuel or IG set it up with the ability to prime the system without starting the ignition. Most cars give you the ability to rotate the crank without starting ignition to prime the system you just have to do a special combination of things that the Manual will tell you or either an internet forum.
Very good and solid solution. I would Like to have oil pressure and temperature information in the canbus. But my Volvo 2.5 ft FlexiFuel does not have any Sensors For that. Also it doesn't have an oilfilter can. So i cant use such a relocating Kit with additional Sensor holes. *Sad fivezylinder noises*
@@ArneChristianRosenfeldt Turbos constantly have fresh hot exhaust pushing through them. Second to the catalytic converter and manifold, they are hottest part of car.
@@reallyhappenings5597 Yes they are. We try to distribute the heat to get rid of it. So naturally we would want to place the turbo far way from other hot parts. Ideally, it would be close to a vent to the top to let the hot air escape. It should be away from the frame in order not to weaken it. Battery doesn't like heat. I guess the only way to deal with the exhaust, is to use double walls like on a motorbike. Or triple walls. At least you need some space between block and turbo to insert all the heat shields. A turbo has a cold and a hot side and bearings at 60°C in between. Okay, 60°C is much closer to the intake temp then to the exhaust. How do they even insulate the turbine wheel from the bearing? In a jet-engine I guess they have this hollow, large diameter rim thingy where the heat would need to travel a foot of sheet metal before it reaches the bearing. Yeah, maybe the bearings are indeed hot, but the oil is injected at a very low temperature and is sucked away before it has time to cook.
Over sixty years ago, an old mechanic told me that the oil filter should be mounted "right side" up, NOT upside down. He said mounting it upside down with the input/output holes facing down, allows the oil to drain out of the filter causing a dry/no oil condition on the engine restart. Whereas with the filter mounted correctly the oil filter can stays filled with oil. A small side benefit is the oil stays in the filter when unscrewing the filter instead of spilling all over.
Great episode. Have you ever thought about an pre-start electric oil pump, purely to bring up oil pressure before starting. Or a manual hand operated oil pump, like they have for priming diesel injector pumps, but to prime the oil system.
I would be curious as to whether auxiliary electric oil pumps or pressurized oil reservoirs would be worthwhile for preventing the engine running dry on startup.
I had a 4A for a while and the stock oil filter location was a pain: right under the exhaust and right over the A/C compressor, so oil changes could be burn-y and they almost always involved oil all over the compressor. At least the car didn't have to be jacked up too high to get at it, like on a Honda D series where it's behind the engine. I never liked inverted oil filters (Mazda rotaries, newer Subarus) because they tended to be really messy and/or dry start nearly every time because anti-drainback doesn't do anything: it all just drains into the engine, leaving the filter and the long path from the filter back to the engine empty. On my 13B with any cold start I'd shut off the fuel pump and crank until the oil pressure gauge started to rise (5-10 seconds), then allow it to start.
Hello Driving 4 Answers. Great work you are doing here. I just have one request. How about you do a video on car tuning. Just explaining the fundamentals i.e stage 1 to 5 etc will be much appreciated. Keep up the good work.
happy new year my friend. that was a very good video. you explained it well. its a basic review for me but a good one. plus I get to see a great new products. thanks liked and subbed up. I also like you explaining how the turbocharger system works.
I still like the factory water oil cooler. Heats the oil up quicker and maintains it in winter. It also saves having to shoehorn an oil cooler radiator in the grill somewhere.
A pair of filters would allow a bypass system. Main filter 20 - 30 microns takes full flow. Parallel connected filter at 2 microns takes 10% flow. Result is extremely clean oil for longer engine life.
1:13 not always. On my engine it's all cast into the block as one chunk. This sort of kit would not work on a 4.9 I6, a different style where the engine end threads on as if it was a filter would be required. That being said, the 4.9 I6 does not have the exhaust and oil filter on the same side of the engine, so this clearance issue would never pop up.
This would work fine on a 4.9, as long as you had the proper base size. The nipple sticking out of the base is exactly the same as the one used in the kit, and can be removed if it's damaged.
As you can see in the vid the head is on. This took ages as we had to find different valve springs for the 4afe. The stock ones are super soft and there's no aftermarket. What's not in the video is that the transmission is also on now so the next steps are now auxiliaries like alternator, starter, and then putting the engine in the car and then intake ducting, battery relocation, intercooler stuff, exhaust and finally wiring it all up. I probably forgot like half the stuff 😂
I love all your videos, however I was hoping to learn more than to have gravity explained to me. However I realize that is just how simple this is. No hate, looking forward to your consistent delivery of important key aspects of different automotive systems that others rarely touch on or fully explain. Its why I and others come back. Best wishes
will it clear que oem starter engine? ive seen honda starter motors adaptors, cos they are smaller and give you more clearance around headers super nice video as always! i was wondering how to install a thermostat alongside a relocation kit, all questions answered!
My recommendation -Do a remote mount turbo -Diy your own turbo manifold to address clearance issues whether it be engine components or vehicle components in the engine bay I'm also back, I was sick and I had covid but now I am better!
Great work and explanations I’ve got a question regarding no oil at start up for a short period of time and perhaps you could answer here in this format or it might be a good idea for a topic of another video I would like to see the video personally getting to the point would an accumulator of small capacity electrically opened at pre start up to supply oil pressure to engine prior to it turning over therefore alleviating dry start the accumulator could trap oil incrementally as engine runs and hold pressure and released at the following start up I’d like to hear your thoughts on this regards John P
Food for thought: does the MRP manual discuss priming of the cooler, lines, and accessories to avoid large air bubbles? The cooler would be easy enough, just pour oil in the top. However, the lines might be a little more difficult to prime.
Typically you want to pre-fill as much as possible. Then, upon first start, crank the engine without starting it. Some have a safety where if you try to start while the gas is fully depressed it will not supply fuel or spark. Doing so allows the engine to be turned over to build pressure prior to high force combustion.
@@TowerCrisis that is a good point, I know some older cars with point style distributors can have the oil pump manually turned without starting the engine.
1 reason to relocate it is difficulty accessing it in stock location. On the Rb26 it's under the intake plenum and it's hard to change it over without making a mess of oil all over the front diff. Installing an oil cooler + relocation kit will help improve engine life longevity and make oil changes easier at the same time. Win win.
www.mrpltd.co.nz/product/oil-filter-relocation-kit/
Happy 2022 everyone
Support d4a: driving-4-answers-shop.fourthwall.com/
Hey buddy, Happy 2022 to you, too!
I just bought myself a Christmas present; a 1994 LHD Twin Turbo 1JZ-GTE Soarer/SC300 project. It’s incomplete but it runs and drives so well! The stock twins are seemingly always in boost. My 1990 MR2 Turbo and my 1994 Celica Turbo have finally met their big brother! Still got the LS400 holding down daily duties so my dream garage is finally complete! Just wanted to share that with someone who can relate.
Great content, as usual. Your MR2 is getting nothing but the best. Love to see it.
@@negativeindustrial Now the "only" drawback to that is that you need a new dream to look forward to or life pretty fast goes on pointlessly fast without purpose. 😲
Hi and Happy New Years!!
Always so informative. Really appreciate the content quality. Thank you and an awesome 2022 to you.
"turbos are for snowflakes"
message approved by Giulio Alfieri and Aurelio Lampredi 👍👍
Something to remember, use some sort of protected oil lines. I had one of these kits installed on my Cummins swapped F350. One oil line rubbed a hole in itself and ruined the motor. Truck has been down since July waiting on parts and I'm 14k into the project. All of this could have been avoided had I have used a protected oil line. It's been a life lesson with zeros behind it.
it's good that your informing others from your experience so that other car enthusiasts can avoid such incidents and well 14k ain't no joke but on the bright side you learned something from your mistakes which is always a good thing :)
Install an oil pressure gauge to or after the point where the oil gets back in the engine block. I know, hindsight 20/20
@@petermolnar8667 it's actually got a gauge on it but I didn't catch it. I'm thinking of either a low oil pressure shutdown switch or a shift light sized idiot light. Probably go with the light.
How about installing oil lines so not being rubbed by something?
@@psk5746 the lines are about 7 feet long. They were running down the top of the frame rail and held into position with very wide zip ties. I thought would be a fairly safe place to be. It was just the weight of the lines on top of the frame along with the vibration that wore through the soft lines.
If you ever come to New Zealand, pop in to MRP. Barry(the owner) is one of the best people in the industry to deal with. Always a joy to visit him for 4age related parts.
It is often a good idea to relocate filter as that gives the ability to pick up pressurized oil for a turbo or charger, to install oil temp and oil pressure sensors, and to install oil cooler to prevent overheat as well.
Almost mandatory for every performance oriented engine mods
Im sure the engine design engineers know what they are designing and doing
@@dq2023 sure. But designing a commercial engine for cars to be sold is slightly different from designing a performance engine for cars to be race.
@@dq2023 they have to design and build cars to a price point, rather that excellent enginering. Except for some German cars, where the Goverment support the auto industry through education & funding of science & research.
I truly appreciate how thorough your explanations and videos are. Thank you for all of your hard work and knowledge! 🔥 🔥 🔥
I relocated the filters on my S-10 and my Isuzu Trooper. I also switched the filter to a large and common Chevy V8 filter. The filter was more than double the size but cost the same. I mainly did the relocation because the filter sat at a 45° angle and would get oil all over the exhaust and frame when changing oil. Plus if you did a change on a hot engine there was a 99% chance you were burning your arm. I located the filter under the hood and moved the sensors to the mounting pad so they were away from exhaust heat. I can now change the filter easily with good lighting and no awkward gymnastics. I can also fill the filter with oil, which takes close to 1L, and avoid a dry startup.
Awesome👏 I totally understand why you did the relocation.
Nice job, the filters on a Trooper as a mess to change, and they need so soon to get changed, what a pain!
4jb1 2.8 trooper?
@@amarularif3110 No it was a 2.8L Gas engine which was a General Motors 60 Degree V6. The main reason to start doing the swap was the leaky oil cooler lines which were discontinued so there was no real hope of salvaging the system so the remote filter made way more sense.
Prefilling an oil filter is a waste of time
Never heard of an oil thermostatic plate.
Great idea!
Wow I can hardly believe you're creeping up on 400K subs already. Very well deserved though. Thanks for all the awesome videos!
I don't even own a car but still comes back to watch every video.
Your knowledge could never be too much,
whatever it is about,
and whether or not you own a car or not.
👍
To prevent dry starts
after the engine hasn't been started for a while, an electric oil pump can be installed between the engine and filter triggered by a remote switch inside the car. Turn on ignition, run the pump for 10-20 seconds or so and oil pressure will build before the engine is fired up.
Do you know of any electric oil pumps on the market, it's s good idea, I made the same comment before I read yours.
@@slypig24 No I don't unfortunately. I got the idea from a friend who rigged up a pump for his TVR. It was fitted with the Ford V6. Sometimes it wouldn't be used for months but the electric pump would bring the oil pressure up before starting. There's likely a big market for something like this if someone could produce a kit.
Oh good lord, there won't be any "dry starts".
@@starmc26 Praying to the Lord won't solve the problem..
@@starmc26 of course there will- it takes time for an engine to build oil pressure- even if it's for half a second- that's half a second multiplied by ever time you start your car. It's really not a difficult concept to understand.
I relocated the filter on my 2004 Mercury Marauder because the crossmember and rack would get drowned when the filter was changed. Also, it allows the smaller FL820s filter to be replaced with a larger FL1a, plus adds 1 more quart of capacity. Mine was for convenience but this video is spot on and very informative.
As always, well explained, concise and no bullshit. This type on content helps every type of car enthusiast. Awesome video brother!
Thank you so much for this video!! I've been looking at a relocation kit for the purpose of adding an oil cooler for a long time now, and wasn't sure if it would actually be worth the time, money, and effort to do so. I also wasn't sure exactly where to put it if I did. Thank you again for this video and all of the other amazing and informative videos that you do!
Beautifully explained. Had I not seen this video, i could had done the installation in a way that could harm my engine. Thank you so much for this!
Don’t have that much of a issue with my 4AFE but wish it was more comfortable changing the filter. You just gave me an answer. Thanks👍
Revisiting this a year later because I just bought a 1977 Datsun 620 and I can't wait to start a frame-up restoration with a new, fully built, motor! Some great info here!
That's really great. I didn't know there were thermostatic bypass devices for the oil cooler and never stopped to think about the filter mounting point level. level.
Great video as always. I'd like to add that if you add the relocation kit and mount your filter close to the engine oil drain plug, it makes for faster and cleaner oil changes!
a union fitting.
probably the only thing that i'll ever know that you'd forgot. 🙂
happy new year and thank you for your channel - it is absolutely top notch! 🥳🥳
Great timing! The SR20 in my NX2000 has the oil filter literally inaccessible without taking apart the whole engine bay, as well as pouring all over the engine when it comes out, so I bought a relocator kit to fix both of those issues.
This kit is amazing! Simple yet so effective!
Hey man, I really appreciate your content and the work that goes into it.
I had the same clearance issue on my 98 celica.
An aftermarket oil filter is a great improvement. The HUBB filter features a secondary filter for the bypass valve. It's stainless and washable with warranty.
I would highly recommend it!
Thanks again for the awesome videos.
When applied in a sensible way, it's a win/win situation. 👍
Thanks for the informative videos! Happy new year! 😄
Very helpful video. Besides turbos, moving the oil filter to an easier to access location, makes oil changes easier. 👍
Thank you for another interesting video!
To the last point of the engine running without proper lubrication. I'm wondered why there is not an electrical oil pump for pre-lubrication of the engine before start 🤔
I'm a simple man; I see a D4A upload, I watch, I press like. This is nice but that stuff you added is +10 lbs, not to mention adds clutter in the engine bay! Lucky for me, my car's oil filter is RIGHT on top, the easiest to access out of any vehicle I have ever owned. 🙂 #N54
I have a system with a large oil cooler and 2 filters the oil filters are right next to the oil pan one filter to filter the oil and the 2nd filter is for any residual debris in the cooler and anything the first oil filter did not remove it's like a bypass filter but it is right on the engine the oil cooler is a oil to water cooler
Learned some cool stuff.
I'd also like to point out, there's also the option of a heat exchanger instead of an oil cooler waaaay up in front.
Shorter lines, less pressure lost in the lines. You do have to plumb some coolant lines though.
The heat exchange also has the benefit of warming the oil in low temperatures, and is arguably better than the thermostat and cooler combination since it tries to equalize the oil with coolant temperature. Dumps heat in the radiator though.
@@mitchellpatterson1829 Yes you do need to account for it in radiator sizing as well.
Alot of cars already have this from factory ..... especially turbocharged cars!
One of the reasons tuners use a separate cooler instead of a heat exchanger is that you free up some cooling capacity of the radiator, without fitting an upgrade. Normally, it would have to deal with both the heat of the coolant and oil, and with some extra power/under higher loads this could lead to overheating, fitting a separate oil cooler is just a way of increasing the overall cooling capacity
@@petermolnar8667 While that is true, an oil/air heatexchanger is suboptimal in case of the MR2 (all 3 generations) there is no good point to mount it.
The side air intakes are too small and would result in higher engine bay temperatures.
Front mounting would require some absurdly long lines and taking air from below would clog up or damage the oil cooler quickly.
So for a turbocharged MR2, it makes more sense to use an oil/water heatexchanger and upgrade the water/air heat exchanger seperately.
Besides, the water/air heatexchanger needs an upgrade anyway when you turbocharge the car, so this doesn't realy affect costs much because you'll need to get a new one anyway.
Sidenote:
At least the EUDM MK3 came with an oil/water heatexchanger from the factory due to the expected long periods of WOT on the Autobahn and the resulting high oil temperatures.
God bless German cars for their filters directly ontop of the engine. Nice and visible and easy to replace too. No time to waste Hans
Upgrading oil pump is probably a good idea if doing this and make sure cooler can flow good enough for the application. For very cold weather consider the extra distance the oil will have to travel to get to where it’s going. Usually not very much of a difference but it can be considerable bellow freezing.
I have never considered moving the filter! Thanks for the idea
I was Just thinking of move the oilfilter location so this video was a bullseye.
Happy New Year. Løøking forward to more quality video in 2022.
With an oil filter that sits with the thread side pointing up, so that inlet and outlet are pointing upwards, there is no risk of the oil draining out of it. It might run down out of the feed lines in that style set up if the lines are high but not the filter.
I was hoping that someone would point that out as it's not clarified here that the anti-drainback valve is designed for filters mounted horizontally or upside down.
Great explanation of why it’s better to mount the filter lower. Thank you.
Good info to know. Liked this video and how you explained about how you can starve an engine of oil by placing the filter in a wrong location and how the cooler reacts with oil filter .
Thanks for showing this item. I would like to relocate mine to a logical position. Right now it's designed to drip on every single thing under the hood when I spin it off. 👍
Awesome, I used the GREDDY thermostatic sandwich plate with an ebay relocation kit that looks exactly like that one in design. It works great on my 2ZR-FAE, that engine doesn't have room around the filter housing to fit the AN fittings, probably with the banjo fittings I could've done it, but even then the greddy plate didn't replicate the filter well enough and would not catch the threads on the oil filter housing, so I set it up just like you did on this video. I can't recommend using thread sealant enough before you run any oil through the lines, it definitely will leak even though it uses NPT fittings. My engine averages 50PSI on cold starts, so the oil pressure builds up way before my oil gauge boots up which is in less than a second.
I wish you made this video 8 months ago, I had the same issue, and had to come up with the same solution. I took a while brainstorming!
Well done! I have installed both watched a dozen video's and I learned something!
Your timing couldn't have been more perfect on this one. I'm about to relocate mine as well. Adding an oil temp and pressure sensor as well whilst I'm at it.
Love this channel.
If there was a RUclips list of essential Channels like the WHO's list of essential medicines this channel should definitely make it
Sound thinking and good advice, as usual. Happy New Year.
Love to see parts go on that are a perfect fit. I got a replacement radiator that was 99% the same, the 1% difference was the size of the inlet and outlet so the stock hoses didn't quite fit comfortably back on. Maybe turning over the engine without spark for a bit would prime engines without as much ware for extreme setups?
Thank you and wishing you a happy and prosperous 2022!
Where... Was very helpful. My integra has a filter as you showed in your demo. I find it annoying to access but now I know that it's actually going to be to the detriment to the engine if I put it where I wanted it.
I work more with diesel engines rather than gas engines, but what about using an oil to coolant heat exchanger rather than an air cooler? These typically have a higher heat capacity than an air cooler, can be pretty compact, and prevent over cooling, in most cases not requiring a thermostat. You can even get one that sandwiches in between the filter and filter head, so no additional plumbing needed.
svaku epizodu rado pogledam, unikatan i originalan content na svjetskom nivou. kapa do poda
Hvala puno 😊
I’ve always wanted to do this and run a much bigger filter or two depending on how much it will affect the oil pressure.
this shit was unexpectedly entertaining af while also being highly educational.
Cool to see you mention every detail
Great video. But i have read about the fact that if you get the size of the oil filter wrong, it can cause problems related to the oil presure. Or something like that. Considering this video, where you can add a ton of extra stuff and pipes and increase the amount of oil needed, can only mean that using a slighty larger (or smaller) oil filter in the original location, doesn't cause any problems at all. I hate the internet sometimes.
My oil filter is on the opposite side of the engine. The advantage by relocation the filter is you can use the Oil filter as a cooler by putting in it direct air stream.
it does virtually nothing for cooling because of the lack of surface area.
with the banjo adaptors, that's really neat and compact
but for the price of more pressure losses then straight out into AN fittings.
I was thinking "ah, so i can move my oil filter to the top for easier access." until 7:13. Then I was like "nah i'll just leave it".
Your channel is amazing. Who would have thought to do this? I will now!
As always bro love the knowlage bombs bro ... ty this is the next thing I need to do to my build ( I got a 1.6 miata that I have bored 30 thou over and forged naxpeedingrods like u use and supertech 8-1 pistons and rinds a fluid damper and acl and king race bearings and thrust washers ... the head is next n I been watch your vids thinking if trying to portmatch and all myself ) again thanks for the knowlage my brotha peace n love and I can't weight to see the mr2 when it driving broski 🤘🏼💪🏽✌🏽
I remotely relocated my oil filter on my v8 e30.
Used a block adaptor with -10an fittings mounted thr filter and new housing down under the chassis leg and connected the two with nice braided oil lines.
No need for a cooler where it is now as it's down in a nice stream of cool air 😎
If the car is sat for along time and you’re that worried about a second without oil with 0 load. Then look in your Manuel or IG set it up with the ability to prime the system without starting the ignition. Most cars give you the ability to rotate the crank without starting ignition to prime the system you just have to do a special combination of things that the Manual will tell you or either an internet forum.
Very good and solid solution.
I would Like to have oil pressure and temperature information in the canbus.
But my Volvo 2.5 ft FlexiFuel does not have any Sensors For that. Also it doesn't have an oilfilter can. So i cant use such a relocating Kit with additional Sensor holes. *Sad fivezylinder noises*
I would recommend some type of heat shielding between the turbo and the relocation fittings. It’s going to get pretty hot right there..
Yeah, i hope he puts heat wraps on his headers and turbo jacket on the turbo.
Why does the hot turbo even has to hug the block? Is the heat even worse for other parts in the bay?
@@ArneChristianRosenfeldt Turbos constantly have fresh hot exhaust pushing through them. Second to the catalytic converter and manifold, they are hottest part of car.
@@reallyhappenings5597 Yes they are. We try to distribute the heat to get rid of it. So naturally we would want to place the turbo far way from other hot parts. Ideally, it would be close to a vent to the top to let the hot air escape. It should be away from the frame in order not to weaken it. Battery doesn't like heat. I guess the only way to deal with the exhaust, is to use double walls like on a motorbike. Or triple walls. At least you need some space between block and turbo to insert all the heat shields.
A turbo has a cold and a hot side and bearings at 60°C in between. Okay, 60°C is much closer to the intake temp then to the exhaust. How do they even insulate the turbine wheel from the bearing? In a jet-engine I guess they have this hollow, large diameter rim thingy where the heat would need to travel a foot of sheet metal before it reaches the bearing. Yeah, maybe the bearings are indeed hot, but the oil is injected at a very low temperature and is sucked away before it has time to cook.
Over sixty years ago, an old mechanic told me that the oil filter should be mounted "right side" up, NOT upside down.
He said mounting it upside down with the input/output holes facing down, allows the oil to drain out of the filter causing a dry/no oil condition on the engine restart. Whereas with the filter mounted correctly the oil filter can stays filled with oil. A small side benefit is the oil stays in the filter when unscrewing the filter instead of spilling all over.
Wow! What I didn't know. Thanks for the info.
Thank you for the clarification, great video!!👍🏻👍🏻
Thank you for the video! Another question is, is position of the filter important (say you flip it upside down)?
Really nice video...
Really appreciate your videos. Hoping for more of those videos...
This was super helpful!
awesome video and a great explanation!! love from Australia
You make this stuff seem so easy. Thanks!
Great episode. Have you ever thought about an pre-start electric oil pump, purely to bring up oil pressure before starting. Or a manual hand operated oil pump, like they have for priming diesel injector pumps, but to prime the oil system.
I would be curious as to whether auxiliary electric oil pumps or pressurized oil reservoirs would be worthwhile for preventing the engine running dry on startup.
Also interested in this
I was just looking at doing this in my build, thanks for the info!
Great video, thank you for sharing.
I installed one on a dune buggy and added an oil cooler too.
I had a 4A for a while and the stock oil filter location was a pain: right under the exhaust and right over the A/C compressor, so oil changes could be burn-y and they almost always involved oil all over the compressor. At least the car didn't have to be jacked up too high to get at it, like on a Honda D series where it's behind the engine. I never liked inverted oil filters (Mazda rotaries, newer Subarus) because they tended to be really messy and/or dry start nearly every time because anti-drainback doesn't do anything: it all just drains into the engine, leaving the filter and the long path from the filter back to the engine empty. On my 13B with any cold start I'd shut off the fuel pump and crank until the oil pressure gauge started to rise (5-10 seconds), then allow it to start.
Perfect thank you very much I learn something for my miata, and I will put your knowledge in good use sir.
Hello Driving 4 Answers. Great work you are doing here. I just have one request. How about you do a video on car tuning. Just explaining the fundamentals i.e stage 1 to 5 etc will be much appreciated. Keep up the good work.
happy new year my friend. that was a very good video. you explained it well. its a basic review for me but a good one. plus I get to see a great new products. thanks liked and subbed up. I also like you explaining how the turbocharger system works.
What a genuinely great and helpful video! Thanks mate, learned a lot 😊
Fwiw, aeroflow in Australia sell an oil filter relocator with a thermostat oil cooler input output built in.
Very simple, clear, and pragmatic
Está genial, no sabía que se vendían estos kit, yo lo he hecho de manera artesanal.
I still like the factory water oil cooler. Heats the oil up quicker and maintains it in winter. It also saves having to shoehorn an oil cooler radiator in the grill somewhere.
A pair of filters would allow a bypass system. Main filter 20 - 30 microns takes full flow. Parallel connected filter at 2 microns takes 10% flow.
Result is extremely clean oil for longer engine life.
this truly one of my favorite videos as i love over building but oil coolers aren’t good for daily’s, that oil cooler adapter/regulator sounds perfect
1:13 not always. On my engine it's all cast into the block as one chunk. This sort of kit would not work on a 4.9 I6, a different style where the engine end threads on as if it was a filter would be required.
That being said, the 4.9 I6 does not have the exhaust and oil filter on the same side of the engine, so this clearance issue would never pop up.
This would work fine on a 4.9, as long as you had the proper base size. The nipple sticking out of the base is exactly the same as the one used in the kit, and can be removed if it's damaged.
Once again a great video on a subject i would totally overlook if you would not have made this. How is the project coming along?
As you can see in the vid the head is on. This took ages as we had to find different valve springs for the 4afe. The stock ones are super soft and there's no aftermarket. What's not in the video is that the transmission is also on now so the next steps are now auxiliaries like alternator, starter, and then putting the engine in the car and then intake ducting, battery relocation, intercooler stuff, exhaust and finally wiring it all up. I probably forgot like half the stuff 😂
I love all your videos, however I was hoping to learn more than to have gravity explained to me. However I realize that is just how simple this is. No hate, looking forward to your consistent delivery of important key aspects of different automotive systems that others rarely touch on or fully explain. Its why I and others come back. Best wishes
Fantastic video!!! Very informative!
Filters usually mount to the side of the block? Usually used to seeing them on the bottom or top
will it clear que oem starter engine?
ive seen honda starter motors adaptors, cos they are smaller and give you more clearance around headers
super nice video as always! i was wondering how to install a thermostat alongside a relocation kit, all questions answered!
Isn’t there an application to hook up an electric pump to build oil pressure before the crank?
Great vid and the advice on install is worth $1000's
My recommendation
-Do a remote mount turbo
-Diy your own turbo manifold to address clearance issues whether it be engine components or vehicle components in the engine bay
I'm also back, I was sick and I had covid but now I am better!
Great work and explanations I’ve got a question regarding no oil at start up for a short period of time and perhaps you could answer here in this format or it might be a good idea for a topic of another video I would like to see the video personally getting to the point would an accumulator of small capacity electrically opened at pre start up to supply oil pressure to engine prior to it turning over therefore alleviating dry start the accumulator could trap oil incrementally as engine runs and hold pressure and released at the following start up I’d like to hear your thoughts on this regards John P
This is a helpful video. Thanks!
Are there any pre-pumps for building oil pressure before starting?
New subscriber!!! I love this channel!! One day will you please do a video on LS ENGINES😁😁😁🔥🔥🔥
Food for thought: does the MRP manual discuss priming of the cooler, lines, and accessories to avoid large air bubbles? The cooler would be easy enough, just pour oil in the top. However, the lines might be a little more difficult to prime.
Typically you want to pre-fill as much as possible. Then, upon first start, crank the engine without starting it. Some have a safety where if you try to start while the gas is fully depressed it will not supply fuel or spark. Doing so allows the engine to be turned over to build pressure prior to high force combustion.
@@TowerCrisis that is a good point, I know some older cars with point style distributors can have the oil pump manually turned without starting the engine.
Thank you every munch good intel
1 reason to relocate it is difficulty accessing it in stock location. On the Rb26 it's under the intake plenum and it's hard to change it over without making a mess of oil all over the front diff. Installing an oil cooler + relocation kit will help improve engine life longevity and make oil changes easier at the same time. Win win.
just having it lower than the factory location is enough for it to not drain back to the sump.