HOW and WHY to relocate your OIL FILTER
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- Опубликовано: 26 авг 2024
- On a stock engine with a stock exhaust manifold the exhaust manifold clears the oil filter without issues. But let's see what happens if we decide to modify this engine. Let's imagine we want to fit a different exhaust manifold with the goal of turbocharging the engine.
In many cases clearance becomes a problem and the manifold is hits the oil filter. Even a shorter oil filter often doesn't help much and installing a turbo charger is simply impossible.
The only solution in a scenario like this one to relocate our filter. In other words we remove our stock oil filter and mounting plate and replace with an oil filter relocation kit that allows us to put our filter pretty much anywhere we want to.
An oil filter relocation kit consists of two main parts. One part goes onto your stock oil filter location. And the other part houses your oil filter on it's new location and then the two parts get connected to each other.
Your stock mounting plate and oil filter are connected to the engine using a long union bolt. Obviously this bolt is too long for the relocation plate so the kit has a shorter version of this union bolt.
The kit also comes with two adapters to suit a wide variety of engines.
The adapter is fastened into the mounting bracket and then the hollow bolt is installed into the adapter. After that you can screw the entire assembly into the block as you would your oil filter.
The oil filter itself is of course installed into the other part of the kit and then you can you use the provided mounting brackets and holes to install the oil filter and housing at your desired location.
The kit that I'm using in this video is made by Manon Racing Performance in New Zealand which specialized in Toyota 4AGE performance parts. This kit is a high quality billet item with impeccable finish machining to ensure perfect fitment and maximum flow. It's designed to operate reliably under high temperatures and in harsh racing conditions. Thanks to it's extensive range of adapters it also suits a wide variety of engines.
It's also designed to fit -10AN or army navy fittings for a leak free easily removable connection. -10an is a large cross-section fitting which ensures optimum flow and is the recommended size for most applications.
However there is a problem with this kit, the fittings point outward at a right angle from the engine block wall and the AN fittings add to the profile of the filter which again results in potential clearance problems. Fortunately this can easily be resolved simply by removing the provided fittings and replacing them with banjo bolt style fittings. These then point the connection downward and dramatically reduce the profile of the relocation plate leaving more than enough room for the turbo.
An oil filter relocation kit also gives us the opportunity to install an oil cooler to reduce oil temperatures which can be something very beneficial in racing or other situations where we have high engine loads for prolonged periods of time.
When it comes to plumbing the oil cooler you have two options. Option 1 is to have the oil flow from the engine to the cooler then to the filter and finally back into the engine. Option two is to have the oil run to the filter first and then to the engine. Both options are acceptable in most scenario and each has its small benefits. Having the oil cooler before the filter means that the oil filter can catch any residual solder and other debris that can break loose from inside the cooler but it can also mean that you're sending cooler more viscous oil into the filter. If the oil is too cool and too viscous it will trigger the bypass valve inside the oil filter and reduce the amount of oil actually being filtered.
But fortunately there is a solution to this problem as well. If your oil cooler ends up cooling the oil too much you can install this which is a thermostatic sandwich plate. You can install it both under the oil filter or under the mounting bracket on the engine. Inside it the thermostatic plate has a proprtioning valve which sends more oil to the cooler the hotter it gets. The end result is an engine that gets to operating temperature faster but also doesn't overcool it's oil.
In general an oil cooler is not a good idea just because it cools your oil but also because it together with the hoses needed for the system increases the oil capacity of your engine which is almost never a bad thing. Having more oil to circulate though the engine helps ensure proper temperature control.
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www.mrpltd.co.nz/product/oil-filter-relocation-kit/
Happy 2022 everyone
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Hey buddy, Happy 2022 to you, too!
I just bought myself a Christmas present; a 1994 LHD Twin Turbo 1JZ-GTE Soarer/SC300 project. It’s incomplete but it runs and drives so well! The stock twins are seemingly always in boost. My 1990 MR2 Turbo and my 1994 Celica Turbo have finally met their big brother! Still got the LS400 holding down daily duties so my dream garage is finally complete! Just wanted to share that with someone who can relate.
Great content, as usual. Your MR2 is getting nothing but the best. Love to see it.
@@negativeindustrial Now the "only" drawback to that is that you need a new dream to look forward to or life pretty fast goes on pointlessly fast without purpose. 😲
Hi and Happy New Years!!
Always so informative. Really appreciate the content quality. Thank you and an awesome 2022 to you.
"turbos are for snowflakes"
message approved by Giulio Alfieri and Aurelio Lampredi 👍👍
Something to remember, use some sort of protected oil lines. I had one of these kits installed on my Cummins swapped F350. One oil line rubbed a hole in itself and ruined the motor. Truck has been down since July waiting on parts and I'm 14k into the project. All of this could have been avoided had I have used a protected oil line. It's been a life lesson with zeros behind it.
it's good that your informing others from your experience so that other car enthusiasts can avoid such incidents and well 14k ain't no joke but on the bright side you learned something from your mistakes which is always a good thing :)
Install an oil pressure gauge to or after the point where the oil gets back in the engine block. I know, hindsight 20/20
@@petermolnar8667 it's actually got a gauge on it but I didn't catch it. I'm thinking of either a low oil pressure shutdown switch or a shift light sized idiot light. Probably go with the light.
How about installing oil lines so not being rubbed by something?
@@psk5746 the lines are about 7 feet long. They were running down the top of the frame rail and held into position with very wide zip ties. I thought would be a fairly safe place to be. It was just the weight of the lines on top of the frame along with the vibration that wore through the soft lines.
If you ever come to New Zealand, pop in to MRP. Barry(the owner) is one of the best people in the industry to deal with. Always a joy to visit him for 4age related parts.
It is often a good idea to relocate filter as that gives the ability to pick up pressurized oil for a turbo or charger, to install oil temp and oil pressure sensors, and to install oil cooler to prevent overheat as well.
Almost mandatory for every performance oriented engine mods
Im sure the engine design engineers know what they are designing and doing
@@dq2023 sure. But designing a commercial engine for cars to be sold is slightly different from designing a performance engine for cars to be race.
@@dq2023 they have to design and build cars to a price point, rather that excellent enginering. Except for some German cars, where the Goverment support the auto industry through education & funding of science & research.
I relocated the filters on my S-10 and my Isuzu Trooper. I also switched the filter to a large and common Chevy V8 filter. The filter was more than double the size but cost the same. I mainly did the relocation because the filter sat at a 45° angle and would get oil all over the exhaust and frame when changing oil. Plus if you did a change on a hot engine there was a 99% chance you were burning your arm. I located the filter under the hood and moved the sensors to the mounting pad so they were away from exhaust heat. I can now change the filter easily with good lighting and no awkward gymnastics. I can also fill the filter with oil, which takes close to 1L, and avoid a dry startup.
Awesome👏 I totally understand why you did the relocation.
Nice job, the filters on a Trooper as a mess to change, and they need so soon to get changed, what a pain!
4jb1 2.8 trooper?
@@amarularif3110 No it was a 2.8L Gas engine which was a General Motors 60 Degree V6. The main reason to start doing the swap was the leaky oil cooler lines which were discontinued so there was no real hope of salvaging the system so the remote filter made way more sense.
Prefilling an oil filter is a waste of time
I truly appreciate how thorough your explanations and videos are. Thank you for all of your hard work and knowledge! 🔥 🔥 🔥
I don't even own a car but still comes back to watch every video.
Your knowledge could never be too much,
whatever it is about,
and whether or not you own a car or not.
👍
To prevent dry starts
after the engine hasn't been started for a while, an electric oil pump can be installed between the engine and filter triggered by a remote switch inside the car. Turn on ignition, run the pump for 10-20 seconds or so and oil pressure will build before the engine is fired up.
Do you know of any electric oil pumps on the market, it's s good idea, I made the same comment before I read yours.
@@slypig24 No I don't unfortunately. I got the idea from a friend who rigged up a pump for his TVR. It was fitted with the Ford V6. Sometimes it wouldn't be used for months but the electric pump would bring the oil pressure up before starting. There's likely a big market for something like this if someone could produce a kit.
Oh good lord, there won't be any "dry starts".
@@starmc26 Praying to the Lord won't solve the problem..
@@starmc26 of course there will- it takes time for an engine to build oil pressure- even if it's for half a second- that's half a second multiplied by ever time you start your car. It's really not a difficult concept to understand.
Never heard of an oil thermostatic plate.
Great idea!
Wow I can hardly believe you're creeping up on 400K subs already. Very well deserved though. Thanks for all the awesome videos!
With an oil filter that sits with the thread side pointing up, so that inlet and outlet are pointing upwards, there is no risk of the oil draining out of it. It might run down out of the feed lines in that style set up if the lines are high but not the filter.
I was hoping that someone would point that out as it's not clarified here that the anti-drainback valve is designed for filters mounted horizontally or upside down.
As always, well explained, concise and no bullshit. This type on content helps every type of car enthusiast. Awesome video brother!
That's really great. I didn't know there were thermostatic bypass devices for the oil cooler and never stopped to think about the filter mounting point level. level.
Great video as always. I'd like to add that if you add the relocation kit and mount your filter close to the engine oil drain plug, it makes for faster and cleaner oil changes!
I relocated the filter on my 2004 Mercury Marauder because the crossmember and rack would get drowned when the filter was changed. Also, it allows the smaller FL820s filter to be replaced with a larger FL1a, plus adds 1 more quart of capacity. Mine was for convenience but this video is spot on and very informative.
I work more with diesel engines rather than gas engines, but what about using an oil to coolant heat exchanger rather than an air cooler? These typically have a higher heat capacity than an air cooler, can be pretty compact, and prevent over cooling, in most cases not requiring a thermostat. You can even get one that sandwiches in between the filter and filter head, so no additional plumbing needed.
Learned some cool stuff.
I'd also like to point out, there's also the option of a heat exchanger instead of an oil cooler waaaay up in front.
Shorter lines, less pressure lost in the lines. You do have to plumb some coolant lines though.
The heat exchange also has the benefit of warming the oil in low temperatures, and is arguably better than the thermostat and cooler combination since it tries to equalize the oil with coolant temperature. Dumps heat in the radiator though.
@@mitchellpatterson1829 Yes you do need to account for it in radiator sizing as well.
Alot of cars already have this from factory ..... especially turbocharged cars!
One of the reasons tuners use a separate cooler instead of a heat exchanger is that you free up some cooling capacity of the radiator, without fitting an upgrade. Normally, it would have to deal with both the heat of the coolant and oil, and with some extra power/under higher loads this could lead to overheating, fitting a separate oil cooler is just a way of increasing the overall cooling capacity
@@petermolnar8667 While that is true, an oil/air heatexchanger is suboptimal in case of the MR2 (all 3 generations) there is no good point to mount it.
The side air intakes are too small and would result in higher engine bay temperatures.
Front mounting would require some absurdly long lines and taking air from below would clog up or damage the oil cooler quickly.
So for a turbocharged MR2, it makes more sense to use an oil/water heatexchanger and upgrade the water/air heat exchanger seperately.
Besides, the water/air heatexchanger needs an upgrade anyway when you turbocharge the car, so this doesn't realy affect costs much because you'll need to get a new one anyway.
Sidenote:
At least the EUDM MK3 came with an oil/water heatexchanger from the factory due to the expected long periods of WOT on the Autobahn and the resulting high oil temperatures.
Thank you so much for this video!! I've been looking at a relocation kit for the purpose of adding an oil cooler for a long time now, and wasn't sure if it would actually be worth the time, money, and effort to do so. I also wasn't sure exactly where to put it if I did. Thank you again for this video and all of the other amazing and informative videos that you do!
Thank you for another interesting video!
To the last point of the engine running without proper lubrication. I'm wondered why there is not an electrical oil pump for pre-lubrication of the engine before start 🤔
Don’t have that much of a issue with my 4AFE but wish it was more comfortable changing the filter. You just gave me an answer. Thanks👍
Great timing! The SR20 in my NX2000 has the oil filter literally inaccessible without taking apart the whole engine bay, as well as pouring all over the engine when it comes out, so I bought a relocator kit to fix both of those issues.
a union fitting.
probably the only thing that i'll ever know that you'd forgot. 🙂
happy new year and thank you for your channel - it is absolutely top notch! 🥳🥳
Revisiting this a year later because I just bought a 1977 Datsun 620 and I can't wait to start a frame-up restoration with a new, fully built, motor! Some great info here!
Awesome, I used the GREDDY thermostatic sandwich plate with an ebay relocation kit that looks exactly like that one in design. It works great on my 2ZR-FAE, that engine doesn't have room around the filter housing to fit the AN fittings, probably with the banjo fittings I could've done it, but even then the greddy plate didn't replicate the filter well enough and would not catch the threads on the oil filter housing, so I set it up just like you did on this video. I can't recommend using thread sealant enough before you run any oil through the lines, it definitely will leak even though it uses NPT fittings. My engine averages 50PSI on cold starts, so the oil pressure builds up way before my oil gauge boots up which is in less than a second.
Upgrading oil pump is probably a good idea if doing this and make sure cooler can flow good enough for the application. For very cold weather consider the extra distance the oil will have to travel to get to where it’s going. Usually not very much of a difference but it can be considerable bellow freezing.
This kit is amazing! Simple yet so effective!
God bless German cars for their filters directly ontop of the engine. Nice and visible and easy to replace too. No time to waste Hans
I'm a simple man; I see a D4A upload, I watch, I press like. This is nice but that stuff you added is +10 lbs, not to mention adds clutter in the engine bay! Lucky for me, my car's oil filter is RIGHT on top, the easiest to access out of any vehicle I have ever owned. 🙂 #N54
My oil filter is on the opposite side of the engine. The advantage by relocation the filter is you can use the Oil filter as a cooler by putting in it direct air stream.
it does virtually nothing for cooling because of the lack of surface area.
When applied in a sensible way, it's a win/win situation. 👍
Thanks for the informative videos! Happy new year! 😄
If the car is sat for along time and you’re that worried about a second without oil with 0 load. Then look in your Manuel or IG set it up with the ability to prime the system without starting the ignition. Most cars give you the ability to rotate the crank without starting ignition to prime the system you just have to do a special combination of things that the Manual will tell you or either an internet forum.
Hey man, I really appreciate your content and the work that goes into it.
I had the same clearance issue on my 98 celica.
An aftermarket oil filter is a great improvement. The HUBB filter features a secondary filter for the bypass valve. It's stainless and washable with warranty.
I would highly recommend it!
Thanks again for the awesome videos.
I would be curious as to whether auxiliary electric oil pumps or pressurized oil reservoirs would be worthwhile for preventing the engine running dry on startup.
Also interested in this
Great video. But i have read about the fact that if you get the size of the oil filter wrong, it can cause problems related to the oil presure. Or something like that. Considering this video, where you can add a ton of extra stuff and pipes and increase the amount of oil needed, can only mean that using a slighty larger (or smaller) oil filter in the original location, doesn't cause any problems at all. I hate the internet sometimes.
Isn’t there an application to hook up an electric pump to build oil pressure before the crank?
I’ve always wanted to do this and run a much bigger filter or two depending on how much it will affect the oil pressure.
As a 7MGTE owner I would be far too scared to use banjo fittings on the oil system as the one used on the stock 7M lines is very restrictive. I assume quality AN ones are a bit better flowing like you mention hut it would still set off my knock-anxiety!
The - 10an ones are giant honestly, probably three times as large as what's stock on the 4age if I remember correctly. This means they actually drop the pressure compared to stock 😂
Using banjo fittings on an M series Toyota is as fine as the fittings and metrics themselves. I've seen many and have a 6M myself I swapped 15 years ago, still holding fine.
A classic turbo supra owner? 88-93 Supra I assume.
@@jsun3117 88-92*, and yes I have an '88 Turbo A
Your timing couldn't have been more perfect on this one. I'm about to relocate mine as well. Adding an oil temp and pressure sensor as well whilst I'm at it.
Very good and solid solution.
I would Like to have oil pressure and temperature information in the canbus.
But my Volvo 2.5 ft FlexiFuel does not have any Sensors For that. Also it doesn't have an oilfilter can. So i cant use such a relocating Kit with additional Sensor holes. *Sad fivezylinder noises*
Thank you and wishing you a happy and prosperous 2022!
I would recommend some type of heat shielding between the turbo and the relocation fittings. It’s going to get pretty hot right there..
Yeah, i hope he puts heat wraps on his headers and turbo jacket on the turbo.
Why does the hot turbo even has to hug the block? Is the heat even worse for other parts in the bay?
@@ArneChristianRosenfeldt Turbos constantly have fresh hot exhaust pushing through them. Second to the catalytic converter and manifold, they are hottest part of car.
@@reallyhappenings5597 Yes they are. We try to distribute the heat to get rid of it. So naturally we would want to place the turbo far way from other hot parts. Ideally, it would be close to a vent to the top to let the hot air escape. It should be away from the frame in order not to weaken it. Battery doesn't like heat. I guess the only way to deal with the exhaust, is to use double walls like on a motorbike. Or triple walls. At least you need some space between block and turbo to insert all the heat shields.
A turbo has a cold and a hot side and bearings at 60°C in between. Okay, 60°C is much closer to the intake temp then to the exhaust. How do they even insulate the turbine wheel from the bearing? In a jet-engine I guess they have this hollow, large diameter rim thingy where the heat would need to travel a foot of sheet metal before it reaches the bearing. Yeah, maybe the bearings are indeed hot, but the oil is injected at a very low temperature and is sucked away before it has time to cook.
Hmm, this is quite interesting. How do companies like BMW who put their oil filters at the top of the engine near the head deal with the issue of the engine running dry for a few seconds when starting?
Normaly They have a valve inside so not al the oil goes back
It's a different system/ design and the filter is still very close to the engine.
They have anti-drain back valves in the filter
this shit was unexpectedly entertaining af while also being highly educational.
Where... Was very helpful. My integra has a filter as you showed in your demo. I find it annoying to access but now I know that it's actually going to be to the detriment to the engine if I put it where I wanted it.
i was thinking, is there any benefit to mount the cooler upside down (line in/out on the bottom side) and located a bit higher from the oil filter?. that way the cooler would be drained everytime you change the oil filter
Over sixty years ago, an old mechanic told me that the oil filter should be mounted "right side" up, NOT upside down.
He said mounting it upside down with the input/output holes facing down, allows the oil to drain out of the filter causing a dry/no oil condition on the engine restart. Whereas with the filter mounted correctly the oil filter can stays filled with oil. A small side benefit is the oil stays in the filter when unscrewing the filter instead of spilling all over.
Can you install this relocation kit without removing the original housing (my OE oil filter housing is also a drive shaft carrier so I cannot remove it)? I want to just thread a relocation kit in place of the old oil filter...
Thanks for showing this item. I would like to relocate mine to a logical position. Right now it's designed to drip on every single thing under the hood when I spin it off. 👍
I have never considered moving the filter! Thanks for the idea
I was thinking "ah, so i can move my oil filter to the top for easier access." until 7:13. Then I was like "nah i'll just leave it".
Great explanation of why it’s better to mount the filter lower. Thank you.
I was Just thinking of move the oilfilter location so this video was a bullseye.
Happy New Year. Løøking forward to more quality video in 2022.
Love to see parts go on that are a perfect fit. I got a replacement radiator that was 99% the same, the 1% difference was the size of the inlet and outlet so the stock hoses didn't quite fit comfortably back on. Maybe turning over the engine without spark for a bit would prime engines without as much ware for extreme setups?
Very helpful video. Besides turbos, moving the oil filter to an easier to access location, makes oil changes easier. 👍
Your channel is amazing. Who would have thought to do this? I will now!
Will it have any effect on oil pressure?? With longer hose and such, will it reduces oil flow?
I wish you made this video 8 months ago, I had the same issue, and had to come up with the same solution. I took a while brainstorming!
Sound thinking and good advice, as usual. Happy New Year.
Good info to know. Liked this video and how you explained about how you can starve an engine of oil by placing the filter in a wrong location and how the cooler reacts with oil filter .
I remotely relocated my oil filter on my v8 e30.
Used a block adaptor with -10an fittings mounted thr filter and new housing down under the chassis leg and connected the two with nice braided oil lines.
No need for a cooler where it is now as it's down in a nice stream of cool air 😎
Well done! I have installed both watched a dozen video's and I learned something!
This was super helpful!
Love this channel.
If there was a RUclips list of essential Channels like the WHO's list of essential medicines this channel should definitely make it
1:13 not always. On my engine it's all cast into the block as one chunk. This sort of kit would not work on a 4.9 I6, a different style where the engine end threads on as if it was a filter would be required.
That being said, the 4.9 I6 does not have the exhaust and oil filter on the same side of the engine, so this clearance issue would never pop up.
This would work fine on a 4.9, as long as you had the proper base size. The nipple sticking out of the base is exactly the same as the one used in the kit, and can be removed if it's damaged.
I had a 4A for a while and the stock oil filter location was a pain: right under the exhaust and right over the A/C compressor, so oil changes could be burn-y and they almost always involved oil all over the compressor. At least the car didn't have to be jacked up too high to get at it, like on a Honda D series where it's behind the engine. I never liked inverted oil filters (Mazda rotaries, newer Subarus) because they tended to be really messy and/or dry start nearly every time because anti-drainback doesn't do anything: it all just drains into the engine, leaving the filter and the long path from the filter back to the engine empty. On my 13B with any cold start I'd shut off the fuel pump and crank until the oil pressure gauge started to rise (5-10 seconds), then allow it to start.
with the banjo adaptors, that's really neat and compact
but for the price of more pressure losses then straight out into AN fittings.
I've seen a lot about loss of oil pressure when relocating your oil filter that worry me. Why didn't you touch on these points, or is it a non-issue?
Speed academy gave you a shout out on their new video. Did you see it?
I commented on that video. Most liked comment too 😤
@@d4a haha I was listening to it while cooking so I didn't get to read the comments
I want to add a relocation kit with a thermostatic sandwich plate on my 4age but I am worried of all that extra volume can affect the oil pressure
Volume won't do anything to oil pressure, It's line length and local losses.
On the location of remote filter, I had filters mounted remotely to the frame under the passenger door on my Dodge diesel truck. I experienced the no oil pressure issue 2 or 3 times. Moved them to a bracket fastened to the exhaust manifold and don't have that issue anymore.
I have a system with a large oil cooler and 2 filters the oil filters are right next to the oil pan one filter to filter the oil and the 2nd filter is for any residual debris in the cooler and anything the first oil filter did not remove it's like a bypass filter but it is right on the engine the oil cooler is a oil to water cooler
Food for thought: does the MRP manual discuss priming of the cooler, lines, and accessories to avoid large air bubbles? The cooler would be easy enough, just pour oil in the top. However, the lines might be a little more difficult to prime.
Typically you want to pre-fill as much as possible. Then, upon first start, crank the engine without starting it. Some have a safety where if you try to start while the gas is fully depressed it will not supply fuel or spark. Doing so allows the engine to be turned over to build pressure prior to high force combustion.
@@TowerCrisis that is a good point, I know some older cars with point style distributors can have the oil pump manually turned without starting the engine.
I personally use a thermostatic oil cooler to reduce the possibilities of leakage with all the gaskets and adapters. Also why not just buyer a header that sweeps either forward or back or out further. Many ways to do it.
Wow! What I didn't know. Thanks for the info.
svaku epizodu rado pogledam, unikatan i originalan content na svjetskom nivou. kapa do poda
Hvala puno 😊
Fwiw, aeroflow in Australia sell an oil filter relocator with a thermostat oil cooler input output built in.
Cool to see you mention every detail
Thank you for the clarification, great video!!👍🏻👍🏻
What if my filter is already above the engine? Just wondering out of curiosity
A pair of filters would allow a bypass system. Main filter 20 - 30 microns takes full flow. Parallel connected filter at 2 microns takes 10% flow.
Result is extremely clean oil for longer engine life.
awesome video and a great explanation!! love from Australia
Really nice video...
Really appreciate your videos. Hoping for more of those videos...
Thank you for the video! Another question is, is position of the filter important (say you flip it upside down)?
Are there any pre-pumps for building oil pressure before starting?
You can use an oil filter relocation kit on a normal engine too, because some engines have the oil filter sideways in a very tight place and you end up with a real dirty mess and burnt used oil every time the filter is replaced.
Yup, Miata/MX-5 engines are like that. You can use some tricks but still annoying
Very simple, clear, and pragmatic
Once again a great video on a subject i would totally overlook if you would not have made this. How is the project coming along?
As you can see in the vid the head is on. This took ages as we had to find different valve springs for the 4afe. The stock ones are super soft and there's no aftermarket. What's not in the video is that the transmission is also on now so the next steps are now auxiliaries like alternator, starter, and then putting the engine in the car and then intake ducting, battery relocation, intercooler stuff, exhaust and finally wiring it all up. I probably forgot like half the stuff 😂
As always bro love the knowlage bombs bro ... ty this is the next thing I need to do to my build ( I got a 1.6 miata that I have bored 30 thou over and forged naxpeedingrods like u use and supertech 8-1 pistons and rinds a fluid damper and acl and king race bearings and thrust washers ... the head is next n I been watch your vids thinking if trying to portmatch and all myself ) again thanks for the knowlage my brotha peace n love and I can't weight to see the mr2 when it driving broski 🤘🏼💪🏽✌🏽
I'm surprised the factory would even put the oil filter that close to the exhaust manifold to begin with. I'm used to them being toward the bottom of the engine, not out the side, nearly touching the stock exhaust.
Isn't the goal to cool your engine fluids? Wouldn't having the oil filter that close to the exhaust manifold just make it that much hotter?
That's why I say it seems kind of crazy the factory would even design it that way to begin with.
Great episode. Have you ever thought about an pre-start electric oil pump, purely to bring up oil pressure before starting. Or a manual hand operated oil pump, like they have for priming diesel injector pumps, but to prime the oil system.
1 reason to relocate it is difficulty accessing it in stock location. On the Rb26 it's under the intake plenum and it's hard to change it over without making a mess of oil all over the front diff. Installing an oil cooler + relocation kit will help improve engine life longevity and make oil changes easier at the same time. Win win.
Thank you every munch good intel
Hello Driving 4 Answers. Great work you are doing here. I just have one request. How about you do a video on car tuning. Just explaining the fundamentals i.e stage 1 to 5 etc will be much appreciated. Keep up the good work.
My recommendation
-Do a remote mount turbo
-Diy your own turbo manifold to address clearance issues whether it be engine components or vehicle components in the engine bay
I'm also back, I was sick and I had covid but now I am better!
I still like the factory water oil cooler. Heats the oil up quicker and maintains it in winter. It also saves having to shoehorn an oil cooler radiator in the grill somewhere.
I was just looking at doing this in my build, thanks for the info!
I have a kinda/sorta related question - aircraft piston reciprocating engines get certified after running flat-out for over 6-days; why can't automobile engines run flat-out, or even at 75% for as long? Is it a matter of harmonics and/or lubrication?
It's a matter of they don't need to be able to do that. A dead engine in a car means getting towed, in an airplane it's a different story obviously. You could design a lawnmower engine that's capable of running flat out for a month, but obviously that's useless and wasteful.
alot of manufacturers do thease kinds of tests but with varying loads and speeds
@@d4a thanks for the reply - General Aviation piston reciprocating engines are of large displacement, and turn slow. The Lycoming IO360 (fuel injected, slightly over square, opposed, and 360 cubic inches of displacement) develops max power @ approx 3000 rpm. They can run at 75% all day. What parts and/or systems fail in an internal reciprocating engine, say a 5.8 square small block, running at 75% all day? My guess is that any failure would be found at the bottom end - from rings all the way down to bearings; the harmonics they make at the different increasing RPMs, and the need for adequate lubrication at said rpm. Converting an auto engine to work in experimental aircraft always had my attention. This is why I now ask this question.
It depends what you call "flat out", if you check the list of FIA Absolute World Records, the Mercedes Benz team ran a Mercedes Benz 190 E 2.3-16 at 154 mph for 25,000 miles and 50,000 km in 1983, another Mercedes Benz, a E320 CDI at 140 mph for 100,000 km and 100,000 miles in 2005 and Volkswagen ran their W12 (not a production car) at 200 mph for 24 hours and another records including 5,000 km and 5,000 miles. I'm not sure if those sorts of tests are realistic for cars, but it might be wrong to say that they can't do them.
Fantastic video!!! Very informative!
I love all your videos, however I was hoping to learn more than to have gravity explained to me. However I realize that is just how simple this is. No hate, looking forward to your consistent delivery of important key aspects of different automotive systems that others rarely touch on or fully explain. Its why I and others come back. Best wishes
happy new year D4A!!
Happy New year my man!