Become a Tuning Pro: hpcdmy.co/dr4a Support the channel by shopping through this link: amzn.to/3RIqU0u Patreon: www.patreon.com/d4a AEM high flow fuel pumps: bit.ly/2D4Ahighflowfp AEM fuel pressure regulator: www.aemelectronics.com/products/fuel-delivery/adjustable-fuel-pressure-regulators/universal-adjustable-fuel-pressure-regulator
Would also be good to check the gauge of the wires running to the tank. The stock pump uses less current than the AEM pump. If you loose voltage on your cables, you loose performance on the fuel pump.
Good stuff as always, I feel smarter after watching your videos :D I have to say I am impressed at the condition under the car, not bad at all for such an old timer!
I love this project. And I allways learn something new from You. Amazing. But one small detail, You said that pump is ready for methanol/ethanol, that's true, but used rubber hose is not suitable for any of those liquids, I use this hose a lot, it's great for oil/petrol/diesel fuel, but after submerging it into ethanol fuel it will melt(not exactly melt, but change its consistency to buble gum), so that's Your weak point now. For this aplication we ussualy use nylon hoses. Otherwise very good, and it should work with E10 fuel at least few years.
The package comes provided with a small section of hose that's suitable for ethanol and methanol. I didn't reuse the stock hose. The rest of the hoses are of course a different story but if I do move to ethanol I will of course replace all of them beforehand.
Mmm. I remember replacing my AW11 fuel pump well. Why couldn't they give us a door? The biggest pain was disconnecting and reconnecting the firm filler tube. At least your tank had the drain! The early models didn't. Great work as always. So excited about this build.
Great info as always. One more thing to note for flow through a given nozzle size, flow ^2/pressure = constant where pressure is the differential pressure across the nozzle. (meaning difference between pump and manifold pressure) Therefore flow2/flow1 = sqrt(pressure2)/sqrt(pressure1) This means you can tweak the flow somewhat by adjusting the pressure.
The best possible way of educating something is to learning both theorical and practical aspects of it, and that's the exact way you do! Thank you my friend and teacher! 👌
It’s worth mentioning that OEM injectors often have a spray pattern that has been designed with the intake port/valve in mind. Most aftermarket injectors have a generic spray pattern. This can result in more fuel being sprayed on the wall/valve and increased puddling. Usually it’s not a huge deal, but can cause some drivability issues.
Wow. This video hit at the perfect time. I'm getting ready to add port injection to my DIT car and have not been having a good time figuring out what injectors to get. Thanks for this video, man!
I have always found it much easier to remove the oem pump, add a sump, and use an external inline pump. The only real downside is that they tend to be a little bit louder, but other than that, it makes literally every other part way easier to service. I know some people have had issues with reliability when using inline fuel pumps, but the only time I have seen it be an issue is when using cheap parts.
Unless extra work has been carried out on the breathing, a realistic pressure requirement will be 30 psi 2.0 Ltr engines make approx 300bhp @ approx 20psi, provided AIT does not rise to height and the turbo is not maxed out. Fuel octain requirements seem to be min of 98 Ron+ else the ignition timing needs retarding to the point the engine goes soft.
Fantastic video, as always. I have just only one thing to say about sparks in the fuel tank. As dangerous as it may seem, the fuel is actually impossible to ignite. And that is due to the lack of oxygen. For the petrol to ignite, a lot of air is needed. Of course, all wiring and wire connections have to be done professionally. The fuel ignition, in this case, is just a fun fact 🤓
There's a top access hatch to get to the fuel sender, but not one for the fuel pump. A detail change to combine the two or prioritise the pump would have crossed off one of the more shitty maintenance jobs on the MR2. The SW30 is done in the modern way.
Never realized how good I had it on my miata. On those, theres a little door behind the drivers seat, right under where the soft top folds down. This looks like a PITA
This is off this topic but what are the advantages and disadvantages of carbon clutches over organic or sintered metal clutches? In your clutch video I didn’t see it mentioned and I can’t find much on the web about them short of primary research articles.
I recently watched a Japanese episode about upgrading your ignition or battery had relatively massive positive effects, might make that one of your episodes. On best motoring i think but might find the company elsewhere. Want me to look it up?
I would not put rubber around the pump because fuel pumps and specially the boosted one get warm fast and might need the metal surface to exchange the heat, but again I would not because I have one percent of your skill!
As usual a very informative video. -Thank you so much. I also have a mid-engine car (Bertone X1/9 with an Uno Turbo 245hp) but with a Bosch 044 external pump. It is working good but it is noisy so I am going to replace it. What about the AEM pump. Is it generating more noise than stock? It has even more capacity compared to 044 but is that one also loud? It looks like it can be mounted externally as well?
With modern injectors i wouldn't be so conservative with injector size. When i modify my cars i usually install ev14 1000cc injectors, unless bigger are needed. I havent had any idle or light throttle issues with them. Usually 600-700cc injector would be fine with my builds but with 1000cc injector i have option to change e85 or bigger turbo without buying new injectors again.
Which solution is better? Fuel pump near the fuel tank with a long pressurised line and short return line or fuel pump near the engimne with short pressurized line and two long non pressure lines ( feed and return) ?
I have 11.25:1 compression on my 370 lq9/ls3 headed motor with 850cc injectors and 450lph fuel pump with lsa supercharger, on my c10 I have a stock 4.8 with 9.5:1 compression and running the 54lb lsa injectors on a 340 lph pump with a vortech centrifugal v3 sci supercharger……good times…….both are cammed and stalled…..both are around 10lbs boost
Don't crimp AND solder. crimping > soldering, soldering afterwards only makes the connection weaker. If the crimp doesn't transmit confidence, re-crimp it with better tools.
@@d4a Sure! The timestamp for reference is 14:00 The solder "hardens" the wire making it less flexible and the heat could affect the insulation. I've also read people complaining about vibrations plus heat (current) being able to melt the solder, I've never had that happen and I used to solder my shitty crimps up to a few months ago. As a disclaimer, the only repair in a car I've made are changing light bulb and filters, so I've no experience here. Given that the soldered crimps are tucked away I wouldn't disassemble everything again to redo them. The owner of the shop was with you so if he does that usually and there was no issue, it hope it's fine for this application. I love your videos and your car, btw. Thank you for the great content as always, I learnt a lot with your videos and I hope some day to put it into practice.
I have a question... I'm also building the same project as you of turboing a 4A-FE engine with the same parts as used in #project underdog, expect I'm using high compression semi forged pistons and my power goal is less than 250. NOW MY QUESTION IS is it safe to use a 4A-FE oil pump with 7.8 mm with gear or should I get the 4A-GE oil pump(with a thicker gear), since I will be installing an oil squinters and turbo oil feed??????? I really need an answer. PS #driving 4 answers I would like to add your project has been very help for turboing my car, and so I would like to thank you.
Somewhat unrelated to boosted applications, but if I were to upgrade my intake manifold to something which flows air better than the stock setup would the increase in air pressure be significant enough to validate upgrading fuel pump and injectors? I realize you don’t know what engine I have or any of the differences in specs between the stock and aftermarket intake manifolds but I guess I’m wondering generally for stock, naturally aspirated engines. 😁
I build a 300 crank horsepower 1nzfe toyota 1.5L engine. Im using a TI industry 255lph fuel pump, obx fuel rail with 550cc fiveo fuel injectors. I achieve my goal, but my tuner said my injectors are too big 😔
@@TheAdatto it uses the momentum of the car to send fuel to the lines. At least that's what I've been told since the plugs for the lines are in the lower back part of them.
Are you perhaps mixing concepts from electric cars? I've never heard about that before, so I'm sorry if I am the one mixing things. My point is, fuel cells are used in hydrogen cars. They have nothing to do with petrol cars. It also comes off to me as nonsense "using the momentum of the car to send fuel to the lines". Imagine your car has been sitting in your garage for a month. Are you gonna shake it to get some fuel running through its veins? Looks funny to me. Sorry if that comes off as offensive but I really can't make sense of the concept. I couldn't find anything on the internet about this kind of fuel cell you are talking about. If you are certain they do exist and somehow work please tell me more because you've successfully sparked my interest.
Mr when upgrading to turbo system, ecu will remain the same? If yes, what about MAP sensor? I know that turbo creates pressure and that map uses vaccum to operate correctly, so would you give me somes precisions
@@d4a Maybe you can do a video (or two) on that ‘heavily modified Lancia Delta Integrale’? I’d love to see it and hear you talking about all the special bits and pieces.
If i mount just a better fuel pump in aspirated stock car can i harm something ? I have a fuel pump from another car with a bigger engine . Tnx in advance .
how much air do you feel comfortable cramming into the 4AFE? I have a G6 Corolla with a 4EFE, and am debating whether to boost it to like 5psi, make an ITB kit or just swap it for a 7AFE with an AWD driveline, but then I'd have to sacrifice the 6-speed CR gearbox EDIT: oh dear god, I just got to the part where you mention 20psi, I sincerely hope that's your oil pressure at idle, not your target boost :p
Yes, that's my target boost. But this is my block: ruclips.net/video/FsGwMN9Q0Tk/видео.html It's honestly not worth going through the trouble of implementing forced induction to run 5psi. A healthy bone stock 4afe can take 10psi and still be reasonably safe, of course provided the tuning is done right.
@@d4a Thanks for the input. The 7AFE and AWD driveline is pretty common here in Iceland, so I suppose that's the most sensible upgrade, being a bolt-in affair. Good luck with the MR2, I'm really enjoying the series on it.
Does anyone else find it strange that forced induction even works in the first place? If a turbo doesn't violate the no such thing as a free lunch law, I don't know what does.
How so? To spin the turbo you need the exaust gas pressure. That obviously is a problem, albeit not a significant one. By pumping more air as boost into the engine you burn more fuel too. This increases your MPG the same way putting a bigger engine in your engine bay would. It's just that the boost doesn't change the size of the engine, only the amount of air it can burn. I wonder, what are you doubtful about? Are you having problems understanding that? I can try explaining in simpler terms if that is the case. I hope I could be of help.
Become a Tuning Pro: hpcdmy.co/dr4a
Support the channel by shopping through this link: amzn.to/3RIqU0u
Patreon: www.patreon.com/d4a
AEM high flow fuel pumps: bit.ly/2D4Ahighflowfp
AEM fuel pressure regulator: www.aemelectronics.com/products/fuel-delivery/adjustable-fuel-pressure-regulators/universal-adjustable-fuel-pressure-regulator
I’ve always dreamed of turbocharging a 4AFE. Really looking forward to this series!!
Same here!
me too, hoping to do it on my 92 corolla wagon soon
Would also be good to check the gauge of the wires running to the tank. The stock pump uses less current than the AEM pump. If you loose voltage on your cables, you loose performance on the fuel pump.
It never occurred to me to check if various wires can handle extra current. That’s a good think to keep in mind!
A
this is the only channel i've come acros that shares this knowledge in great detail. please show us whats next on your journey
Good stuff as always, I feel smarter after watching your videos :D I have to say I am impressed at the condition under the car, not bad at all for such an old timer!
I love this project. And I allways learn something new from You. Amazing.
But one small detail, You said that pump is ready for methanol/ethanol, that's true, but used rubber hose is not suitable for any of those liquids, I use this hose a lot, it's great for oil/petrol/diesel fuel, but after submerging it into ethanol fuel it will melt(not exactly melt, but change its consistency to buble gum), so that's Your weak point now. For this aplication we ussualy use nylon hoses. Otherwise very good, and it should work with E10 fuel at least few years.
The package comes provided with a small section of hose that's suitable for ethanol and methanol. I didn't reuse the stock hose. The rest of the hoses are of course a different story but if I do move to ethanol I will of course replace all of them beforehand.
Thanks for the insane amount of information. I will definitely be watching Boost school and project underdog playlists
Mmm. I remember replacing my AW11 fuel pump well. Why couldn't they give us a door? The biggest pain was disconnecting and reconnecting the firm filler tube. At least your tank had the drain! The early models didn't. Great work as always. So excited about this build.
Great info as always. One more thing to note for flow through a given nozzle size,
flow ^2/pressure = constant where pressure is the differential pressure across the nozzle.
(meaning difference between pump and manifold pressure)
Therefore
flow2/flow1 = sqrt(pressure2)/sqrt(pressure1)
This means you can tweak the flow somewhat by adjusting the pressure.
best video about fuel pump on mr2 PERIOD
The best possible way of educating something is to learning both theorical and practical aspects of it, and that's the exact way you do! Thank you my friend and teacher! 👌
Glad to see this still going, I enjoy listening to it on my way to work. Keep up the excellent work.
It’s worth mentioning that OEM injectors often have a spray pattern that has been designed with the intake port/valve in mind. Most aftermarket injectors have a generic spray pattern. This can result in more fuel being sprayed on the wall/valve and increased puddling. Usually it’s not a huge deal, but can cause some drivability issues.
Wow. This video hit at the perfect time. I'm getting ready to add port injection to my DIT car and have not been having a good time figuring out what injectors to get. Thanks for this video, man!
I have an odd suggestion for the iconic engines series: the BMC A-Series as found in the mini and was in production for over 60 years.
I would be interested in a video about E10 and E85 fuel and how they effect older cars.
Even though it's not the same engine this has helped me greatly with building my big turbo Dodge Neon SRT4
Please keep in mind, that the fuel return line may be to small for this 340l/h pump. It could make fuel pressure issues
awesome cadency, perfect didactics!
Can't wait to see the next video on the turbo build.
Svaka cast majstore! Samo nastavi. Dugo vec pratim tvoj kanal, veoma edukativan i zabavan sadrzaj!
Ziv bio!
With your video in hand I'm doing the fuel pump on my Corolla G6 and 2 Celica ST185.
I'm looking forward for a pressure regulator video now !!!
Your presentation and insight was as the kids say "on fleek". Whatever that means. Carry on knuckle buster.
I have always found it much easier to remove the oem pump, add a sump, and use an external inline pump. The only real downside is that they tend to be a little bit louder, but other than that, it makes literally every other part way easier to service. I know some people have had issues with reliability when using inline fuel pumps, but the only time I have seen it be an issue is when using cheap parts.
Unless extra work has been carried out on the breathing, a realistic pressure requirement will be 30 psi
2.0 Ltr engines make approx 300bhp @ approx 20psi, provided AIT does not rise to height and the turbo is not maxed out. Fuel octain requirements seem to be min of 98 Ron+ else the ignition timing needs retarding to the point the engine goes soft.
Fantastic video, as always.
I have just only one thing to say about sparks in the fuel tank. As dangerous as it may seem, the fuel is actually impossible to ignite. And that is due to the lack of oxygen. For the petrol to ignite, a lot of air is needed. Of course, all wiring and wire connections have to be done professionally. The fuel ignition, in this case, is just a fun fact 🤓
I can't believe how much effort it takes to change the fuel pump in that Toyota!
There's a top access hatch to get to the fuel sender, but not one for the fuel pump. A detail change to combine the two or prioritise the pump would have crossed off one of the more shitty maintenance jobs on the MR2. The SW30 is done in the modern way.
Good info! I learned a lot. Thank goodness this video wasn't uploaded on april 1st.
Never realized how good I had it on my miata. On those, theres a little door behind the drivers seat, right under where the soft top folds down. This looks like a PITA
Very good educational video! 👌🏼
This is an amazing series! Part 14 coming anytime soon? I’m motivated to boost my 7A-FE with the stock head now
Thank you for the video i learn something New today. Its not a easy Job to get the tank down or up i have a sw20 and its the same shape and place.
This video is legendary
So dense with knowledge
Never seen a good video on this, thank you
This is the video i was waiting for
Are you concerned that soldering the wires to the connectors you could be creating a hard spot at the terminal that may fail with vibration?
Make a video on Volvos b21ft I've heard they've got forged internals and are pretty strong engines also I think they went racing as well. Thank you
Great informative video as usual bruv.....
Great video as always 👍
Awesome video. I want to upgrade an old car, but I wonder how to supply vacuum to the brake booster. It is a FORD MONDEO with ZETEC 1.8 liters engine
very helpful video, thanks
Great video man.
Hay alguna diferencia si fuera la marca walbro...es lo mismo aem... o mejor pregunto ?
Very great video as always
Amazing content ..can you do a video on toyota 2gr fse...in my country we add turbos on them running 11 .1 comp ratio getting 400+ hp
This is off this topic but what are the advantages and disadvantages of carbon clutches over organic or sintered metal clutches? In your clutch video I didn’t see it mentioned and I can’t find much on the web about them short of primary research articles.
I recently watched a Japanese episode about upgrading your ignition or battery had relatively massive positive effects, might make that one of your episodes. On best motoring i think but might find the company elsewhere. Want me to look it up?
That was nice and clear.
can you cover the possibility of running pre turbo aux injector?
What's the difference between high impedance and low impedance fuel injectors? (Applications, mechanical differences, etc.)
I would not put rubber around the pump because fuel pumps and specially the boosted one get warm fast and might need the metal surface to exchange the heat, but again I would not because I have one percent of your skill!
Thanks! Another great video. 🙂
As usual a very informative video. -Thank you so much. I also have a mid-engine car (Bertone X1/9 with an Uno Turbo 245hp) but with a Bosch 044 external pump. It is working good but it is noisy so I am going to replace it. What about the AEM pump. Is it generating more noise than stock? It has even more capacity compared to 044 but is that one also loud? It looks like it can be mounted externally as well?
Great video. Do you use imperial units just for videos or in your everyday engine head life?
With modern injectors i wouldn't be so conservative with injector size. When i modify my cars i usually install ev14 1000cc injectors, unless bigger are needed. I havent had any idle or light throttle issues with them. Usually 600-700cc injector would be fine with my builds but with 1000cc injector i have option to change e85 or bigger turbo without buying new injectors again.
This is me, on my way to turbo my K24 after binge watching
Boost School…
engines maximal fuel flow per minute is in 2. gear on WOT when accelerating toward max rpm
You can do it!😁
High impedance and low impedance injectors. Big difference.
Well well never thought I'd see the sane engine as my car being built
Which solution is better? Fuel pump near the fuel tank with a long pressurised line and short return line or fuel pump near the engimne with short pressurized line and two long non pressure lines ( feed and return) ?
I have 11.25:1 compression on my 370 lq9/ls3 headed motor with 850cc injectors and 450lph fuel pump with lsa supercharger, on my c10 I have a stock 4.8 with 9.5:1 compression and running the 54lb lsa injectors on a 340 lph pump with a vortech centrifugal v3 sci supercharger……good times…….both are cammed and stalled…..both are around 10lbs boost
That sounds like a riot! So much muscle, must be fun flooring it and watching the surroundings blur 😁
Great information to know! Just curious but if adding dual injection would this formula still work or would it be a different one?
Do we know what max is for the stock fuel rail? A stock Gen II 3S-GTE rail can barely handle the stock pump.
How/where do you find the floerate for your Stock injectors/ fuelpump?
Don't crimp AND solder. crimping > soldering, soldering afterwards only makes the connection weaker. If the crimp doesn't transmit confidence, re-crimp it with better tools.
I would love to know how solder weakens a crimp
@@d4a Sure! The timestamp for reference is 14:00
The solder "hardens" the wire making it less flexible and the heat could affect the insulation.
I've also read people complaining about vibrations plus heat (current) being able to melt the solder, I've never had that happen and I used to solder my shitty crimps up to a few months ago. As a disclaimer, the only repair in a car I've made are changing light bulb and filters, so I've no experience here.
Given that the soldered crimps are tucked away I wouldn't disassemble everything again to redo them. The owner of the shop was with you so if he does that usually and there was no issue, it hope it's fine for this application.
I love your videos and your car, btw. Thank you for the great content as always, I learnt a lot with your videos and I hope some day to put it into practice.
I have a question... I'm also building the same project as you of turboing a 4A-FE engine with the same parts as used in #project underdog, expect I'm using high compression semi forged pistons and my power goal is less than 250. NOW MY QUESTION IS is it safe to use a 4A-FE oil pump with 7.8 mm with gear or should I get the 4A-GE oil pump(with a thicker gear), since I will be installing an oil squinters and turbo oil feed??????? I really need an answer.
PS #driving 4 answers I would like to add your project has been very help for turboing my car, and so I would like to thank you.
I would definitely go with the 4age oil pump
Somewhat unrelated to boosted applications, but if I were to upgrade my intake manifold to something which flows air better than the stock setup would the increase in air pressure be significant enough to validate upgrading fuel pump and injectors? I realize you don’t know what engine I have or any of the differences in specs between the stock and aftermarket intake manifolds but I guess I’m wondering generally for stock, naturally aspirated engines. 😁
Definitely no need to upgrade the fuel pump for that
I build a 300 crank horsepower 1nzfe toyota 1.5L engine. Im using a TI industry 255lph fuel pump, obx fuel rail with 550cc fiveo fuel injectors. I achieve my goal, but my tuner said my injectors are too big 😔
A 300hp mr2……definitely good times
What about fuel cells? Like those aluminium boxes without the pump
Without?
@@TheAdatto it uses the momentum of the car to send fuel to the lines. At least that's what I've been told since the plugs for the lines are in the lower back part of them.
Are you perhaps mixing concepts from electric cars? I've never heard about that before, so I'm sorry if I am the one mixing things. My point is, fuel cells are used in hydrogen cars. They have nothing to do with petrol cars.
It also comes off to me as nonsense "using the momentum of the car to send fuel to the lines". Imagine your car has been sitting in your garage for a month. Are you gonna shake it to get some fuel running through its veins? Looks funny to me. Sorry if that comes off as offensive but I really can't make sense of the concept. I couldn't find anything on the internet about this kind of fuel cell you are talking about. If you are certain they do exist and somehow work please tell me more because you've successfully sparked my interest.
Why you don't use the ae110 intake ?
Is there any link for the injectors. Oh, I'm working on a 7afe engine. Can I follow this project to improve performance? Thanks in advance
Mr when upgrading to turbo system, ecu will remain the same? If yes, what about MAP sensor? I know that turbo creates pressure and that map uses vaccum to operate correctly, so would you give me somes precisions
It's impossible to go turbo with this oem ecu so I'm going standalone
ruclips.net/video/jGKu6etyLZQ/видео.html
@@d4a thnx,
So i forgot to ask about fuel pressure regulator, it will remain the same or you'll gone change it?
ruclips.net/video/kVSPLTLVf1Y/видео.html
Hi, what are all the trophy about in your garage ?
It's not my garage, the mechanic who is also a multiple hill-climb champion with his heavily modified Lancia Delta Integrale owns the garage.
Thanks for the answer sir, love your channel !
@@d4a
Maybe you can do a video (or two) on that ‘heavily modified Lancia Delta Integrale’?
I’d love to see it and hear you talking about all the special bits and pieces.
WHAT A VIDEO
that vintage high pressure fuel pump is funny looking
Good
cover head lift next please
Thanx alot
If i mount just a better fuel pump in aspirated stock car can i harm something ? I have a fuel pump from another car with a bigger engine . Tnx in advance .
ni najbolji inženjeri iz Zastave ti nisu ravni!
Hi ! How can I boost just a little bit a naturally aspirated Toyota 1NR-FE 99 hp 1329 cc port injection ?
how much air do you feel comfortable cramming into the 4AFE? I have a G6 Corolla with a 4EFE, and am debating whether to boost it to like 5psi, make an ITB kit or just swap it for a 7AFE with an AWD driveline, but then I'd have to sacrifice the 6-speed CR gearbox EDIT: oh dear god, I just got to the part where you mention 20psi, I sincerely hope that's your oil pressure at idle, not your target boost :p
Yes, that's my target boost. But this is my block: ruclips.net/video/FsGwMN9Q0Tk/видео.html
It's honestly not worth going through the trouble of implementing forced induction to run 5psi. A healthy bone stock 4afe can take 10psi and still be reasonably safe, of course provided the tuning is done right.
@@d4a Thanks for the input. The 7AFE and AWD driveline is pretty common here in Iceland, so I suppose that's the most sensible upgrade, being a bolt-in affair. Good luck with the MR2, I'm really enjoying the series on it.
I'm running a 340lph pump with 1k injectors ...I'm capable of running E85 and 93
I tune my 3sgte max 70% duty cycle inj but thats around 20 psi
Gracias a ti monte un carro turbo vase a tus datos
Y yo mitsubishi 1.8 turbo basándome en su matemática..
Thanks..00729
How it is possible if stoch 250HP engine runs without problems on stock 80l/h fuel pump?
Because it's enough. And you don't drive with max hp 99% of the time. Max HP is only at max rpm.
48 liters per hour 😱 That is economical 🥳
The tyoe for the pump??
What car is the engine installed in?
1987 Toyota Mr2
I thought this was 1.8 liters? I had a 94 Celica ST and it had a 1.8 with 110hp
Were you sick or anything? You sounded somewhat different to me.
Maybe a bit closer to the mic than usual? Also processed the audio to remove reverb
@ 4 in a half gas i want to cut fuel consumption x half 🥴 also we need to stop stacking dead bodies at the gas pump.. jesus the killing is terrible.
Does anyone else find it strange that forced induction even works in the first place? If a turbo doesn't violate the no such thing as a free lunch law, I don't know what does.
Because it isn't. In the end it's just an engine part that helps to burn alot more fuel that costs money.
How so? To spin the turbo you need the exaust gas pressure. That obviously is a problem, albeit not a significant one. By pumping more air as boost into the engine you burn more fuel too. This increases your MPG the same way putting a bigger engine in your engine bay would. It's just that the boost doesn't change the size of the engine, only the amount of air it can burn. I wonder, what are you doubtful about? Are you having problems understanding that? I can try explaining in simpler terms if that is the case. I hope I could be of help.
@@felipevellasco6526 I still don't know, but to be honest now I'm more interested in knowing how more displacement equals better fuel economy.
And of course, fuel pumps only fail after you fill the tank all the way up. Dang.
Will these fit my tesla...oh wait, I just remembered, I don't need no stinking gas or oil!
Removing an MR2 fuel tank, not exactly easy... eh?
8:51 with vaseline?
I’m a Mechanophilia when are you talking about engines again?
I need to mastibate