Sorry for the downtime between episodes. I had a lot of people messaging me asking for updates. Here it is! I'm going to do my best to put out more content, even if that means making smaller videos and minor updates on the SC and other projects.
Don't worry about it, you're providing us with free entertainment on your own cost! I have been watching this build for a very long time and I'd rather see videos of you doing things the right way rather than rushing videos and screwing it up
Thanks! I don't know if I've been doing things the right way, but I'm definitely trying. I really just want to get this car finished so I can start my drifting video series. I'll make sure if do shorter videos that the effort is still there though. Thanks for the feedback!
Hey Jeff, just wanted to say; I’ve been enjoying your build series so far (little late but never too late!) just wanted to offer a tip for building AN Fittings. Using the tape to cut is a good way to prevent fraying, but also you don’t need to remove the tape installing them to the AN connectors. I always leave about 1/2” of masking tape. It is completely hidden under the fitting and will prevent future fraying. Also helps with sliding the fitting over the line itself!
definitely get some merch! would be happy to show off your logo, especially if that means helping out the build. would love to see a fully spooled hoodie!
Fully Spooled yea I am. Although I have a is300 everything is the same when doing a ls swap! I love how you go into the details and show what you are doing in detail!
Wow, this is fantastic work, Jeff! Looks very race car and professional. You could just add a small corner brace to that L bracket to reduce bouncing. Can't wait to see this thing run as always.
Yeah only thing I might worry about is the oil filter bouncing and knocking against the base or the cooler moving back and forth a bit and rubbing the lines on the radiator. I'm doubting either will be an issue though.
I wanted to make sure the oil cooler/filter system was made to be reliable since I didn't want to be puking engine oil all over the race track. This should work until I rip the engine apart later to make some upgrades before adding boost. Really appreciate the nice comments. Thanks!
Just seen all of your videos... & I subbed. You do awesome work! Gives me ideas on what to do with my project. Main reason is due to possibly going 4.8 LR-4 V8 in my Starion... An this has brought me tons of relief on how-to go about it, since 99% of my work is with my own hands. Keep it up man! Can't wait to see it running.
I've seen a couple nice LS swaps in Starions over the years. It's a great choice, though I'd opt for a 4G63 just because I love that engine so much. I never really fabricated parts before what you've seen in my videos, so anyone can do it with enough time and practice. It'd be even better if I had proper fab tools. Good luck with it!
Hows the system holding up? I'm buying one right now. So I hope they are worth it. Also no that's not why you clean your lines out. That's why you don't use an angle grinder in the first place. Use a wire cut off tool. One clean snip and done. No shavings or dust to clean out.
This is definitely my number 1 comment on any of my videos. I just slide aluminum foil under the filter and use that as a funnel to direct oil into the pan below. It's actually really easy.
Thanks for the video. It helps when I see someone going through the process. Any issues with the filter relocation as I'm pondering doing that after installing a large skid pan on a 4wd vehicle. I'd hate to have to drop that monster every time I do an oil change.
It will definitely hold more oil. I assume at least a quart if not more. I'm going to prefill the filter and the cooler to help make the first startup as easy as possible.
I think that won't be a problem with this setup. That plus a real oil pan baffle should make the system pretty reliable. I'll probably add a higher flowing oil pump and maybe even an accusump once I start adding boost. Damn the LS oiling system.
I would take a piece of heater hose and cut it down the middle and wrap it around the hose next to the radiator to keep it from rubbing threw that v8 is gonna take around in there and those will definitely wiggle around in there
So you think that's better to put the connector fittings on the top of the oil cooler... I'm in the process to buy one... on put it to a 2011 chevy colorado.for drifting purposes so I wanna be sure not to make a mistake. What u think guys who already got the cooler system?
Should have mounted filter higher on bracket so can put a small catch pan under it for oil changes. Otherwise your fender is gonna get filled with dirty oil when you do a filter change.....
Hey, question. since the oil filter now is next to the engine, after you drain the oil, when you take off the oil filter, does oil still dropping around the oil filter. The reason I ask this question is I want to relocate mine under the hood next to the engine somewhere. If oil drops around oil filter when I screw them off, I need to make sure the location is not above something that can't get oil on. Thanks,
Oil will still come out of the filter even if it's elevated above the engine. Modern Subaru engines have the oil filter at the top, and they make a drain around the filter to prevent it from spilling oil everywhere. I just slide a thin pan under the filter when doing changes and that stops oil from getting everywhere. It's really just the oil in the filter itself that comes out.
Great video, I had one question how high cam you mount the oil filter, it was located on the bottom end before close to the block, also does the length of the hoses affect the performance of the oil pump in the motor
Any pressure drop from a larger filter would be negligible compared to a stock sized filter. Of course adding anything into the oil system will cause small amounts of pressure drop - oil filter, long lines, thermostat, fittings, oil cooler, etc, but none of those things should have a huge impact on oil pressure once they are filled with oil. I'd bet the lines themselves would cause more pressure drop than the slightly larger filter. I would try to minimize any sharp 90 degree bends in the system where you can. I used full sweep 90 degree bends instead of sharp right angles to help with this.
You too! Good work on the power steering line. I've had that on my list of things to do for a while. So many little parts to order and install. I just remembered I had to order an F-body oil dipstick and tube since my truck one won't fit my oil pan. So many things to keep track of.
I have a thin pan that I slide under the oil filter and it catches the oil. Pretty clean setup actually. I could also just cut a hole there if I want to make faster changes possible.
I have links to all the parts I used in the video description. If you're asking where you can buy the parts all together as a kit, you'll have to search around online for a reputable company that makes a full kit like this.
I think the oil filter should be mounted as low as possible and the oil cooler should be upside down and higher than the oil filter because when changing the oil all the oil left in the cooler and the lines will come out when you remove the filter, i know its a space mounting issue but you got a bigger issue now when you are changing the oil the old oil in the cooler will stay in place :(
Yes it's true that the oil will stay in the cooler when I change it, but I also plan on changing the oil in this car every track day. It will never really get old enough or dirty enough to cause any issues. Also, cars come from the factory with oil filters above the engine and coolers below all the time. Oil always stays in factory cooler lines and coolers regardless of where they are located in the engine bay. Good ideas though, and I will be rerouting some things once the front of the car gets tube framed. This is a largely temporary setup.
Chico916 not a dumb question. The simple answer is it won’t come out. Lots of cars have factory oil coolers and 100% of the oil never drains out during changes. I plan on changing the oil often in this car, so the oil sitting in the cooler and lines won’t ever be old enough to cause problems.
James Wells all the parts I listed will fit except for the oil filter spin on adapter. You will have to get one specific to the 2jz. I’m sure there are plenty of those on the market. Everything else is universal fit. 10AN is 5/8” and 8AN is 1/2”.
No not yet. I'm still a few weeks away from starting the engine up for the first time. It shouldn't have any problems with pressure testing though. All high quality parts and (hopefully) installed correctly. The first start up episode will have all the drama that comes with testing multiple systems all at once.
@@FullySpooled nice one...how did you prime it? I'm using the same Greddy sandwich plate was thinking that the thermostat doesn't open till 70-80c...did you just back fill the lines/cooler?
I don't drain it each time, but the oil gets changed very frequently. Also the oil system holds almost 12 quarts, so by comparison there really isn't a lot of oil in the cooler.
Aru hadyantiko yes it’s safe. That’s how every oil change works. When you change your oil, there’s still oil in the head, lines, passages, lifters, stock oil coolers, etc, regardless of the engine configuration. There’s always some level of old oil mixing with new. As long as you make your oil changes frequently enough it’s totally fine.
Watching with great interest from over the pond. Are you planning forced induction or is that something that might happen down the road? Oh and keep up the great work, I too would purchase a hoodie especially if it would help you out financially.
I got the 4.8 LS engine specifically for forced induction. The shorter stroke and higher rod ratio make it the best LS configuration for boost. People have also managed to make naturally aspirated 4.8 engines hit the magical 500hp number and rev to 8k rpm without a ton of work. Either way I have a great platform to start off with.
Focus on content .you really want to be pushing vids daily.when that happens push merch.great vids as always but if you want to be u tube sufficient you got to hit 100k subscribers which is not easy unless you hit more a non specific audience.
Alan Moore I'm a few years late to making RUclips car videos and thinking I'll just hit 100k subs automatically. Daily uploads work great for vloggers or people with enough money to have brand new parts every day and multiple car builds going, but it's just not possible with my type of content and budget. And I'm ok with that. It takes me several days to do the wrenching and filming/editing alone! The merch comment was just because I've had people express interest so I figured I'd open it up to people to give feedback.
Fully Spooled its never too late.keep up the great vids but you gotta play the game to get the subs even the top guys are hittin the click bait game.your edit is on point but your demographic is low"sc guys".good luck and play the game you deserve it.
Sorry for the downtime between episodes. I had a lot of people messaging me asking for updates. Here it is! I'm going to do my best to put out more content, even if that means making smaller videos and minor updates on the SC and other projects.
Don't worry about it, you're providing us with free entertainment on your own cost! I have been watching this build for a very long time and I'd rather see videos of you doing things the right way rather than rushing videos and screwing it up
Thanks! I don't know if I've been doing things the right way, but I'm definitely trying. I really just want to get this car finished so I can start my drifting video series. I'll make sure if do shorter videos that the effort is still there though. Thanks for the feedback!
Hey Jeff, just wanted to say; I’ve been enjoying your build series so far (little late but never too late!) just wanted to offer a tip for building AN Fittings. Using the tape to cut is a good way to prevent fraying, but also you don’t need to remove the tape installing them to the AN connectors. I always leave about 1/2” of masking tape. It is completely hidden under the fitting and will prevent future fraying. Also helps with sliding the fitting over the line itself!
Extremely helpful info on your oil relocation build, I wish I saw this video months ago before figuring it out myself.
Great channel you do a great job of showing and doing what is needed to do this keep up the good work
I try to explain my decision making as best as I can and hope that it translates to everyone easily.
definitely get some merch! would be happy to show off your logo, especially if that means helping out the build. would love to see a fully spooled hoodie!
Thanks! That's two votes for a hoodie. I'll see what I can come up with.
I'd dig it.
this channel is loaded with information thank you for creating all this content
Thanks, glad you're finding it useful!
Fully Spooled yea I am. Although I have a is300 everything is the same when doing a ls swap! I love how you go into the details and show what you are doing in detail!
Wow, this is fantastic work, Jeff! Looks very race car and professional. You could just add a small corner brace to that L bracket to reduce bouncing. Can't wait to see this thing run as always.
Yeah I can brace both the cooler and filter fairly easily if needed, but I think it'll be ok. Thanks for the kind words as always!
Yeah only thing I might worry about is the oil filter bouncing and knocking against the base or the cooler moving back and forth a bit and rubbing the lines on the radiator. I'm doubting either will be an issue though.
Ayye
First! Your work is so clean! We were talking about this a couple weeks ago. You came up with a great solution.
Thanks Eric! It took a lot of planning to get the remote filter mounted the way I wanted. Really happy with how it turned out.
So many nice parts on this build. Really doing a perfect job dude.
I wanted to make sure the oil cooler/filter system was made to be reliable since I didn't want to be puking engine oil all over the race track. This should work until I rip the engine apart later to make some upgrades before adding boost. Really appreciate the nice comments. Thanks!
I think something like your icon as a sticker looks good. Round and simple.
Zango Vu thanks! I was actually thinking the same thing. Round stickers of the turbo logo.
Great video, can't wait till it's don't to see the before and after
Also a fully spooled hoodie would be dope
Great feedback, thanks!
Just seen all of your videos... & I subbed. You do awesome work! Gives me ideas on what to do with my project. Main reason is due to possibly going 4.8 LR-4 V8 in my Starion... An this has brought me tons of relief on how-to go about it, since 99% of my work is with my own hands. Keep it up man! Can't wait to see it running.
I've seen a couple nice LS swaps in Starions over the years. It's a great choice, though I'd opt for a 4G63 just because I love that engine so much. I never really fabricated parts before what you've seen in my videos, so anyone can do it with enough time and practice. It'd be even better if I had proper fab tools. Good luck with it!
Put some of the vibration damper you used on you ECU the cooler will not rub.
Great Video. Thanks for your time and show us. How is done !!
Glad it's helping people! Cheers.
Neat work man,better than some shops
Thank you. I've never had a shop do work for me so I really can't compare it. Hopefully it all works and doesn't leak.
Hows the system holding up? I'm buying one right now. So I hope they are worth it. Also no that's not why you clean your lines out. That's why you don't use an angle grinder in the first place. Use a wire cut off tool. One clean snip and done. No shavings or dust to clean out.
Great video! I only see one issue is that when you change the filter, oil is going to go everywhere! Especially with that giant filter ha.
This is definitely my number 1 comment on any of my videos. I just slide aluminum foil under the filter and use that as a funnel to direct oil into the pan below. It's actually really easy.
sick install man, first time watching any of your videos
Thanks. I learned a lot of this install. Not super easy, but it's working so far.
Very clean I like
Thanks man.
rubber pad under both would get it. and oil on ends helps job slide right on.
i realy like to see the progress on your lexus, can't wait to hear th ls starting !! (:
Victor desveaux thanks! I can't wait either. Getting really close.
Thanks for the video. It helps when I see someone going through the process.
Any issues with the filter relocation as I'm pondering doing that after installing a large skid pan on a 4wd vehicle. I'd hate to have to drop that monster every time I do an oil change.
wonder how much the oik capacity its gonna take with the bigger filter, the lines and oil cooler. she should stay nice and cool with that setup
It will definitely hold more oil. I assume at least a quart if not more. I'm going to prefill the filter and the cooler to help make the first startup as easy as possible.
Word it will be definitely cool to see this thing hold 7 qts
I think that won't be a problem with this setup. That plus a real oil pan baffle should make the system pretty reliable. I'll probably add a higher flowing oil pump and maybe even an accusump once I start adding boost. Damn the LS oiling system.
I would take a piece of heater hose and cut it down the middle and wrap it around the hose next to the radiator to keep it from rubbing threw that v8 is gonna take around in there and those will definitely wiggle around in there
I actually ended up doing exactly that after I filmed this video. Good call!
So you think that's better to put the connector fittings on the top of the oil cooler... I'm in the process to buy one... on put it to a 2011 chevy colorado.for drifting purposes so I wanna be sure not to make a mistake.
What u think guys who already got the cooler system?
Beautifully routed! :D
thank you for this video I like it
I like your video. In my cases, the AN hose-end is not good. Oil leaking was not mendable when I had to reconnect the f-AN and m-AN.
it's important to use quality hose ends and to make sure they are installed all the way onto each hose. Good luck!
love the channel keep up the good work
Ill take a sticker get your channel out there and ill stick it on my truck
Thanks for the support!
Should have mounted filter higher on bracket so can put a small catch pan under it for oil changes. Otherwise your fender is gonna get filled with dirty oil when you do a filter change.....
Slick man! 🤘🏻
choloscuinc thanks!
Keep on keepin on bro!
Thanks man. I'm watching your turbo build with envy.
Hey, question. since the oil filter now is next to the engine, after you drain the oil, when you take off the oil filter, does oil still dropping around the oil filter. The reason I ask this question is I want to relocate mine under the hood next to the engine somewhere. If oil drops around oil filter when I screw them off, I need to make sure the location is not above something that can't get oil on. Thanks,
Oil will still come out of the filter even if it's elevated above the engine. Modern Subaru engines have the oil filter at the top, and they make a drain around the filter to prevent it from spilling oil everywhere. I just slide a thin pan under the filter when doing changes and that stops oil from getting everywhere. It's really just the oil in the filter itself that comes out.
@@FullySpooled got it. sounds like I need to buy a Baxter mount which also has the drain around it. thanks,
Nice install
Prince Green thanks!
Great video, I had one question how high cam you mount the oil filter, it was located on the bottom end before close to the block, also does the length of the hoses affect the performance of the oil pump in the motor
Just found your video/channel
Great video 👍
Has the original oil filter location leaked or still good ?
Just saw this comment. The oil filter relocation is all good. No leaks and works great.
@@FullySpooled And when you change the filter, it's still functional?.
@@ESW_JSALINAS Which part? I unscrew the filter and replace it during oil changes like any other car.
@@FullySpooled You have to disassemble the filter, The filter holder, along with the hoses, So don't make a mess with the oil in it.
Hey man, do you think the larger oil filter will cause a pressure drop due to the higher flow?
Any pressure drop from a larger filter would be negligible compared to a stock sized filter. Of course adding anything into the oil system will cause small amounts of pressure drop - oil filter, long lines, thermostat, fittings, oil cooler, etc, but none of those things should have a huge impact on oil pressure once they are filled with oil. I'd bet the lines themselves would cause more pressure drop than the slightly larger filter. I would try to minimize any sharp 90 degree bends in the system where you can. I used full sweep 90 degree bends instead of sharp right angles to help with this.
this makes a lot of sense. Thanks for the response! Keep up the solid work
You too! Good work on the power steering line. I've had that on my list of things to do for a while. So many little parts to order and install. I just remembered I had to order an F-body oil dipstick and tube since my truck one won't fit my oil pan. So many things to keep track of.
Hell yess!! Merch
What type of merch would you be into?
So will you be adding some sort of channel underneath the filter to direct the oil when you change the filter?
I have a thin pan that I slide under the oil filter and it catches the oil. Pretty clean setup actually. I could also just cut a hole there if I want to make faster changes possible.
Finally !!
I know right?
Great. Where can I buy the whole things ?.
I have links to all the parts I used in the video description. If you're asking where you can buy the parts all together as a kit, you'll have to search around online for a reputable company that makes a full kit like this.
Much better down if you change oil the oil in cooler change
I think the oil filter should be mounted as low as possible and the oil cooler should be upside down and higher than the oil filter because when changing the oil all the oil left in the cooler and the lines will come out when you remove the filter, i know its a space mounting issue but you got a bigger issue now when you are changing the oil the old oil in the cooler will stay in place :(
Yes it's true that the oil will stay in the cooler when I change it, but I also plan on changing the oil in this car every track day. It will never really get old enough or dirty enough to cause any issues. Also, cars come from the factory with oil filters above the engine and coolers below all the time. Oil always stays in factory cooler lines and coolers regardless of where they are located in the engine bay. Good ideas though, and I will be rerouting some things once the front of the car gets tube framed. This is a largely temporary setup.
Nicee... Good job bro..
Isrizal Ishak thanks man!
Dumb question how will the oil come out of the cooler when u do oil change?
Chico916 not a dumb question. The simple answer is it won’t come out. Lots of cars have factory oil coolers and 100% of the oil never drains out during changes. I plan on changing the oil often in this car, so the oil sitting in the cooler and lines won’t ever be old enough to cause problems.
Thank you for responding.. Watching your videos I’m jealous of your project, please keep posting videos..
Start a patreon!
He'd deserve the support.
How messy does it when when you do the oil change with this relocation?
James Wells not messy at all. I just put a thin aluminum or plastic tray under the oil filter. No mess at all actually.
Would all the parts that you listed down at the bottom pit in to 2JZ GE motor? And what’s the difference between 10AN and 8AN?
James Wells all the parts I listed will fit except for the oil filter spin on adapter. You will have to get one specific to the 2jz. I’m sure there are plenty of those on the market. Everything else is universal fit. 10AN is 5/8” and 8AN is 1/2”.
That 2 hole is for the hook
How much -10an hose did you end up needing for this?
I ordered 12 feet and have about 2.5-3 feet left. So somewhere around 8-9 feet. I'd order a couple extra feet just to make sure you have enough.
Great, thanks! Have you tried pressure testing the system yet?
No not yet. I'm still a few weeks away from starting the engine up for the first time. It shouldn't have any problems with pressure testing though. All high quality parts and (hopefully) installed correctly. The first start up episode will have all the drama that comes with testing multiple systems all at once.
Fully Spooled I have faith! I especially hope it does since I'll probably copy this haha. Looking forward to the next video.
Did you Prime the oil cooler?
Sure did! Also used a pressurized pump to pump oil through the entire system.
@@FullySpooled nice one...how did you prime it? I'm using the same Greddy sandwich plate was thinking that the thermostat doesn't open till 70-80c...did you just back fill the lines/cooler?
Nice sticker
Did you drain your oil cooler every time you change your oil?
I don't drain it each time, but the oil gets changed very frequently. Also the oil system holds almost 12 quarts, so by comparison there really isn't a lot of oil in the cooler.
@@FullySpooled so, is it safe, new oil mixed with the old oil even though not so much old oil in it?
Aru hadyantiko yes it’s safe. That’s how every oil change works. When you change your oil, there’s still oil in the head, lines, passages, lifters, stock oil coolers, etc, regardless of the engine configuration. There’s always some level of old oil mixing with new. As long as you make your oil changes frequently enough it’s totally fine.
@@FullySpooled thanks a lot dude for the response 😊
Curious on how much cursing went down during the first oil change lol those lines in front of the plug would piss me off every time i touch it
The lines are connected via swivel hose ends. I can just move the lines away from the drain plug. Super easy actually.
Fully Spooled oh okay haha was gonna say, I’ve done a new ram 1500 and they put a sway bar literally in front of the plug lol
Hi sir
Kindly reply
I need this assembly
I kinda want to do the remote filter to my civic just because lol
Watching with great interest from over the pond. Are you planning forced induction or is that something that might happen down the road? Oh and keep up the great work, I too would purchase a hoodie especially if it would help you out financially.
I got the 4.8 LS engine specifically for forced induction. The shorter stroke and higher rod ratio make it the best LS configuration for boost. People have also managed to make naturally aspirated 4.8 engines hit the magical 500hp number and rev to 8k rpm without a ton of work. Either way I have a great platform to start off with.
+Fully Spooled '7y
where are the 20k plus viewers? why not subs yet?
Gee_El Gaming 🤷♂️
I buy a decal 👍
TeamTOS amazing! Thank you!
If you make me a part list I'm more than willing to pay you for your time thks
Focus on content .you really want to be pushing vids daily.when that happens push merch.great vids as always but if you want to be u tube sufficient you got to hit 100k subscribers which is not easy unless you hit more a non specific audience.
Alan Moore I'm a few years late to making RUclips car videos and thinking I'll just hit 100k subs automatically. Daily uploads work great for vloggers or people with enough money to have brand new parts every day and multiple car builds going, but it's just not possible with my type of content and budget. And I'm ok with that. It takes me several days to do the wrenching and filming/editing alone! The merch comment was just because I've had people express interest so I figured I'd open it up to people to give feedback.
Fully Spooled its never too late.keep up the great vids but you gotta play the game to get the subs even the top guys are hittin the click bait game.your edit is on point but your demographic is low"sc guys".good luck and play the game you deserve it.
Placeing an oil cooler right in front of a cooling radiator seems like a shit Idea to me.
take measurements