The reason our beloved Toyota/Lexus changed to these stupid cannisters is the same reason they deleted the ATF dipstick, it is obvious and the very first thing when I found that newer cars had taken the giant step BACKWARDS for these things. Toyota wants to discourage DIY mechanics from doing anything that would make their car last longer, and making oil change a PITA is a subtle move against people who maintain their own cars. But it is the true reason, since there is absolutely no good reason for them to design them the way they are doing it now.
"Toyota wants to discourage DIY mechanics from doing anything that would make their car last longer" Yeah, it's a vast conspiracy :roll eyes: It's different than a spin -on filter, but not a big deal if you make the effort to understand how it's supposed to be serviced. Separate element also let's you "pre-oil" the element a bit, to eliminate the first 1-2 seconds of engine operation with little or no oil pressure -- that's good for engine long life. I had an early 2000s BMW that had a similar replaceable element, and a separate housing. But, the BMW's housing was near the top of the engine and pointed "up" , so virtually no spillage. That was about the only thing I liked better on the BMW.
@@appalachie I seriously retract my entire comment. On a Lexus forum I read somebody in the industry, that said EPA was leaning on the car makers to make a transmission that can go at least 100K miles on its fluid, and this is why they pre-empted the whole C.f. and had their suppliers reformulate the ATF to make it go at least that long, and why they deliberately made it harder to change it, and to change engine oil as well. So it is not Toyota's fault it is EPA's, which is what counts to me at least.
@@appalachie I would probably have ZERO complaints if the setup was like your BMW. That being said, I am sure you know this, but for SOME reason (roll eyes) failed to mention it... you can A-L-S-O pre oil the cannister filters too.
There’s a reason why they switched to this style of oil filter canisters. Two they are very durable. My 2017 Highlander has over 350k miles and its never broken. I do oil changes every 5k miles. That over 70 times I have taken this thing apart. I just saw the end of this video. Yeah definitely do not buy this adapter.
Never been a mess for me. That plastic tube that comes with the filter is to drain the cannister before you remove it. Alot of cars with cannister filters didn't have this feature. I don't find this design difficult at all.
He treated this just like a spin on filter. He didn't like that. So he converts it to....um a spin on oil filter. That seems dumb to me. I believe you also reduce capacity by at least a little bit. I like the option of removing the drain plug and putting in the plastic fitting. Some people change their oil more often than the filter, and this allows it to be done more thoroughly.
I had Mercedes and Alfas with canister type filters. Never an issue. The real advantage was that one was not buying a filter with possible bad threads or defective internals. You could see the actual filter and confirm it was in good condition before install. The canister itself was well made and leak free. Prefer it to the spin on filters.
Indeed. If he didn't want to make a f'ing mess, FOLLOW THE PROPER PROCEDURE (drain the thing before removal) If Toyota is to get any scorn, it's for using g.. d... plastic cans. (I have yet to see one removed without damage. no surprise most dealerships always replace them.) Maybe the way overpriced adapter has anti-backflow, but the cheap screw on filter sure as h... doesn't. Also take note, the screw on filter shown is HALF the size of the factory canister filter, and hangs well below the factory canister.
I’ve really come to love the Toyota design for a couple reasons. First, by allowing drainback you get a more complete oil change. Second, the vertical orientation of the filter means you don’t need drainback prevention. Third, the elements have no metal on them and thus the manufacturing process cannot cause small metal burrs to remain on the metal parts. (Spin on filters are notorious for generating debris when spun on). Fourth, the filters come with a drain provision in the cover- insert the plastic nipple, press open the drain check ball under the cover, and drain all the filter with no mess. Fifth, the lack of metal in the elements simplifies manufacturing and allows an equivalent quality filter media to be make a cheaper overall filter. I see a lot of advantages to the Toyota setup. But I’m biased because I’m an engineer that specializes in these kinds of things.
All great points, I would also say that as a consumer who tries to reduce wasted material whenever I can, it sure does feel better to toss a filter, rather than a spin on where you’re throwing away a filter, metal, silicon and whatever else it’s made of.
I totally agree with you about Toyota's terrible design. However, I have a few concerns for using the adapter: 1. Too pricey ($250 + tax for mine) 2. I have to downsize the capacity of the filter. 3. If I keep the same oil filter size, the filter bottom would be too close the ground and might hit bumps or objects on the ground.
@ron mcelroy And paying $250 to void your warranty. That stub spin on filter looks suspicious as well. Might be ok but rolling the dice on a $50K vehicle warranty is insane.
I’m 71 and just changed the oil on my Tundra myself for the first time. I always had the dealer do it. Their price rose to $98+ so I bought a 12 qt Mobil 1 oil in a box, a toyota filter and a crush washer and even after buying a MotiveX ($30) wrench to remove the filter housing I still saved a lot of money. And it will be much cheaper from here on out since I won’t be buying anything but the oil, filter and washer. Probably $50 total. As far as the mess…who cares? It’s not like I change the oil every week. I change it a 3k intervals. In my case that’s once a year as I use my truck mainly for towing our camper. At $200+ for this contraption I can stand a little oil running down my rubber gloved hand. 😊
They are very clean if drained before removing it from the vehicles from the bottom of it. I love the design because you can inspect filter media before and after oil change. Who knows what quality is in the oil filters contained in metal. Also clearance can be an issue using this adapter as well on the Sienna vehicles. Nice video.
Congratulations, I think you may be the first person that has given what is in my opinion a very good reason for the cartridge and that is being able to inspect the media after the oil change. I had not thought about that. That is a valuable insight to be able to take advantage of if you choose to do so. That being said, I do not. That it is worth it to me to sacrifice the option to be able to do that for the convenience of a canister filter. Also, in case you do not know or maybe we're just not willing to do so. You are able to cut open the canister filters to look at the media inside. Many RUclipsrs have done so. Of course it's not as easy as with the cartridge, but it is what it is.
@@jotu2121 ...but you missed my main point of seeing the filter media before installing is critical as well for cutting open a can filter makes it useless before hand. So the one extra step to drain the filter with the included plastic adapter is simple and prevents the mess that the few complain about. I can say a few times I saw filters that were cut open only to find that the filter media was torn or not even seamed together correctly causing oil to bypass the filter media completely. Finally to see the media used in the filament is also important for not all media is created equal as well. So that being said there is no problem with this proven design which has been around for over 11 years and counting without issues. The only thing I upgraded was my 2019 Toyota Sienna SE Premium plastic assembly with the metal version. As for this assembly adapter as stated before may hang down too far below the vehicle and be a hazard on some Toyota vehicles.
While I agree a spin on filter is much nicer, the filter you are using with the kit has what appears to be approximately 50% less filter media. While the 2.5 Toyota runs rather clean I’ll always prefer more filter capacity over convenience. Also with the adapter and the small filter the filter now hangs below the oil pan witch in your case has seen some abrasion already. So if that were to happen again you have now opened your oil system and if not caught in time will lead to total engine failure.
Toyota's filter housing is one of the worst to remove. It usually takes an extreme amount of force to back these off due to the large o-ring. Glad this Baxter product exists, and great video!
MADE IN USA IT IS THE RIGHT THING TO DO. MY CAMRY HAVE THIS PROBLEM NEVER GIVE BUSSINES TO TOYOTA. THRE MERCEDES I OWN AND OIL CHANGE WAS A BREEEZZEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEE
FYI: I am not affiliated with any company or products! I am just a Reliability Enthusiast! The lack of an Oil Drain Back valve in the Toyota Cartridge Filter leads to dry start scenario, only if the car sits for awhile as the oil in the cartridge filter drains out quickly. JRSVIDS makes this very clear. Don't know where this statement came from, maybe a myth? "Cold or Dry starts are known to cause 50% of the engine wear over time." Wish I could find the original article and authors findings. There would be some interesting study finds to base this statement on for sure. If the car sits for 12 hours or more, the oil in the engine bearing lubrication system also drains back to the oil pan further adding to the already dry start scenario due to the lack of an Anti-Drain-Back-Valve in the oil filter. This is a significant factor to be aware of as this lack of oil creates a dry start & could reduce the useful life of an engine. This next statement is referencing excessive wear due to the dry start, [So the engine is turning when the ignition key has been engaged, it will come close to adequate pressure and flow before firing and now in a run scenario, but there is a period of time, the engine is turning but no oil to lubricate moving parts, [Depending on how long it sat] thus the dry start. The lack of oil due to the time it takes the oil pump to fill the oil filter and charge the lubricating system of the engine to provide viscous pressurized lubrication. If you check your dipstick hot after shutting the engine off, then check 12, 24 or a couple of days later, you will notice the longer the engine sits, the higher the oil level climbs on the dipstick This increased level of oil is from the oil draining from the Filter, if no Anti-Drain-Back-Valve and the Lubrication System in your engine. I first learned this after reading an article that there can be 5 to 10% of the oil still remaining in the engine after removing the oil pan drain plug and initial drain flow has ceased. To prove this theory, I did just that, performed an oil change with a long drain span. My truck had a 5.5 quart oil capacity (SAE 10w30 Oil) with filter, I left the filter on during the test. After the oil steam at the drain plug stopped flowing to a drip into the drain pan, I put a funnel on an graduated empty quart oil bottle, placed it under the oil drain port and left it for 4 days. At 12 hours, I had just over 10 oz of oil in the bottle, 24 hours measured 13 oz. At 4 days, I had 14.5 oz of oil had drained from the oil pan. Drain plug back in..... Installed a new filter, 5.5 qts of oil. Start the engine and let run for 2 minutes, let sit for 30 mins, oil level showed half a quart low on the dipstick. Now my system held 6 qts of oil after draining for 4 days. Yes, I created a dry start scenario, probably of the worst kind. I just wanted to know. My priority and purpose in installing a BAXTER Spin-On Adapter is that I can now install a much high efficient Spin-On Canister oil filter. Please see below the GM Field Study relating wear causing particulate particles found by testing in the oil and its effect related to rate of wear and Oil Filter Efficiency. By using the BAXTER Adapter, there is now a larger selection of Oil filters to choose from. I am able to choose filters with many available lengths, diameters using a 3/4"x16 thread fitment, many different efficiencies and um ratings, up to a 99% Efficient, Beta 100 Oil Filter rated at 15ums. The engine oil could now last 2 to 3x longer, rate of wear reduced by 95% are now possible. Article from BF at Machinery Lubrication: Anti-drainback Valve Function Prevents contaminant backwash at shut-down and momentary starvation at engine starts. Typically made of nitrile or silicone. Silicone may remain more flexible in cold weather. The filter media must remove particles from the oil in the target size range (10 microns for instance), depending on the reliability objectives of the car owner. Obviously, a small micron-size oil filter is associated with lower wear rates and prolonged engine life (more on this later from the GM Filter Study). The filter must also be able to remove particles fast enough to keep up with the rate new particles arrive into the oil (ingression rate). This is referred to as the contamination control material balance. In an engine, the pump circulates the oil in a multipass fashion, giving the oil filter more than one opportunity to remove particles. Most oil filters have anti-drainback flapper valves, but not all. The flapper is a diaphragm and is usually made of a soft elastomer material like silicone or nitrile. These valves prevent oil from draining back to the sump when the engine is turned off. There are two benefits to this. One is it prevents dirt from backwashing off the outside of the filter media and into the sump. The second is it keeps the spin-on canister full of oil. When the engine restarts, oil is immediately able to move into the main oil gallery and then to active zones of the engine without needing to refill the spin-on can - momentarily siphoning the pump supply. This avoids a dry start (oil starvation) of the valve train (especially overhead cam configurations), turbocharger and bearings. Such dry starts are reported to cause knock and rattle. The anti-drainback valve feature is typically also required when the oil filter is oriented in the horizontal or inverted position. Most car oil filters also have built-in bypass valves. The exception is when the bypass valve is permanently mounted in the engine block. A bypass valve is beneficial to avoid collapsing of the filter in case it becomes plugged before a change-out. Likewise, during cold morning starts, the thick viscous oil can momentarily bypass the filter without damaging it, until it heats up and thins out. Still, there is a real possibility that you can impair oil filter performance if you rev an engine on start when the oil is very cold. Revving an engine in that circumstance is never advised. Here is an excerpt from BITOG: This article discuss;s rate of wear after the lubricating system is at pressure, engine is running, but oil system not up to temperature, the first 15-20 minutes: The Effect of Break-In and Operating Conditions on Piston Ring and Cylinder Bore Wear in SI (Spark-Ignition) Engines, Schneider et al: The rate of wear is much higher within 15-20 minutes of start-up than after reaching normal operating temperature. There was a lot of data but I conclude that the initial start-up time period (first 20 minutes) result is 100 nanometers of wear whereas the steady state wear rate was only 4 nanometers per hour thereafter. (Hence we should be concerned about start-up oil thickness more than running thickness. This justifies the statement that 95 percent of engine wear occurs just after start-up). GM Study - Influence of Filtration on Engine Wear: AC Delco Division of General Motors tested diesel engines and found an eight-fold improvement in wear rates and engine life with lower lube oil contaminant levels. In a related study on both diesel and automotive engines, General Motors reported that “compared to a 40-micron filter, engine wear was reduced by 50 percent with 30-micron filtration. Likewise, wear was reduced by 70 percent with 15-micron filtration”. Read that again. That's a lot of motivation for clean oil! Hope this helps. I personally think that the BAXTER Adapter is well worth the cost to me, considering our Reliability Objectives, factoring convenience, reduction in labour and more importantly the opportunity to use a higher efficient oil filter & extend the useful life of your oil and the engine. I understand the cost factor, its hard to justify as the long term benefits are difficult to measure. I thank the publisher of this video, it was thought provoking for me. I think this US made Spin-On Filter Adapter is a cutting edge breakthrough and will hopefully inspire more companies to make available designs that will help consumers improve the reliability of their vehicles, keep them longer thus reducing cost of ownership. Thanks
I change my Tacoma oil every 5k. I installed a Fumoto drain valve so I never have a mess. My filter cartridge, when done correctly, is a breeze. I have a plastic tube and bottle to pre-drain the cartridge. It is easy with the correct tools and no mess. No need to replac3 it.
DUDE I LOVE YOU!!! I've been fighting with that DAMN cartridge filter for 5 FREAKIN years! I just changed the oil on the wife's 2016 Rav 4 for the last time,I'm getting one of these! Prior to the 2016 we had a 2012 but the wife was hit by a car full of teens. Anyway for some reason I did a search on YT to see if anyone made a conversion kit and I'll be danged there you are and this was TWO FREAKIN years ago I have no idea why I didn't think of this sooner. Anyway thank you for posting this you're a lifesaver!!
I have 2 vehicles with the 2gr-fks engine with these canisters. Never had any problem with them myself, and haven't noticed more oil spill than I've had with a horizontal aluminum style. I've never used the bottom plug / plastic piece gizmo to drain the plastic piece either. Wear gloves, & take your time.
Seems due to the space inside the adapter and above the spin-on filter that will hold oil, this method will make even more of a mess than properly draining the cartridge filter prior to removal. I'd like to see how much oil still spills/drains out as you remove the spin-on filter.
A friend gave me a Baxter TS-101-BK that he took off his Tacoma before he traded it in for a new truck. At first I was skeptical because of the short oil filter in this video that I would need to keep the filter from scraping the ground on my 2016 Camry. Then, I did some research and found that the Mobil 1 filter (M1-102A) that my 2018 Tacoma uses and would fit my Camry is 3.375" tall and 3" diameter. The Wix filter 51335 is only 2.483" tall but is 3.67" in diameter. I physically compared the two. The Wix is much larger looking. I'm no math genius but I figure the media coverage of the two is about the same. I installed the adapter and the Wix filter last weekend. The filter hangs higher than the oil pan. Plus, since the spin on has a anti drain back valve, the VVTI doesn't make the annoying rattle on cold start up anymore. So far, I'm happy with the modification. Note: I've been told that Toyota has eliminated the cartridge filter and went back to the spin on.
I PUT ONE ON MY GRANDAUGHTER'S TOYOTA SUV AND I LOVE IT. IT TAKES A SORT OF FLAT OIL FILTER FROM NAPA. SO FAR 4 CHANGES AND ABOUT ONE YEAR IT IS WORKING GRESAT! LOVE IT! EASY CLEAN CHANGES. WORTH THE MONEY
Jo Tu, your opening soliloquy SO poignantly captured the visceral angst and frustration I experienced when I tried to remove the filter housing on my 2012 Gen 3 Prius, after a Toyota dealer torqued it so tight that I broke a removal tool and was forced to abandon a filter change. Then I found your video and was inspired to buy a Baxter adapter. I ended up using an impact wrench (after buying another removal tool) to break loose the old filter housing-- which I gleefully threw in the trash with the removal tool still attached. The Baxter solution is great for the Prius because there's plenty of room for the unit, which lies horizontally; thus there are no ground clearance concerns. I also installed a ValvoMax drain valve. Oil changes are now so easy that I plan to do them myself every 5000 miles (rather than the Toyota specified 10,000). The more frequent filter change intervals (to my mind) alleviate concerns about the somewhat smaller filtration element.
Thank you for your well written and thought out comment... I really enjoyed it. Happy that things have worked out for you. I have a low-level caution that I later discovered about the Valvomax. After installing it, I developed a very, very, slow leak and was unsure of what was leaking... could be the oil pan or whatever. After diagnosis, I have come to the conclusion that the Valvomax was simply not tightened enough at installation (because the recommended Valvomax torque spec is to low) leading to a very slow leak that will build up oil somewhere (lowest point of engine under oil plug) over time. After considering many things, I came to the conclusion that, for my vehicle (and probably most, or all, others), that the Valvomax recommended torque of 15-18 Ftlbs is simply wrong and should be adjusted closer to factory torque specs >>> FOR YOUR SPECIFIC VEHICLE
Toyota recommended 10K oil change. Yeh follow that just like the lifetime ATF fluid. I’m sure you follow that. Cartridges are not that big of a deal- well unless you let some goober at the dealer ruin the experience for you
I agree the plastic ones suck cause they are very easy to overtighten and the next guy who tries to loosen it the plastic ears break. They do make a mess, but the metal ones dont break, and its nice being able to inspect the filter pleets during an oil change and not needing any extra cutting tools or time to look at it.
Yey no way. Asking for trouble messing with what was engineered. As for oil changes being a " Huge mess" ummm not really. I have a 4runner that is about as big a PIA as Toyotas get. I did buzz my clips off my front slider made life easier. OMG I just saw the price. You are Nuts.
If you understand how to use their cartridge oil filter system it's really easy and not messy at all plus it reduces unnecessary waste by eliminating the can. I do prefer the spin on filters but I don't mind Toyota's solution either. It's just a few extra steps.
As a mechanic myself, the catridge design is a pain in the ass. When I try to drain the oil from the filter, it spun the whole cartridge which I thought was kind of strange. The plastic cartridge does get stuck. The aluminum version is a lot better than the plastic. It does provide a little bit of heat dissapation and it won't strip on you. The aluminum version is my preferred way to go. The way how you explain and do things. I see that you change both oil and filter at every change. Nothing wrong with that. It just that engineers didn't need to design this. The engineers probably design this is to reduce metal filters going to waste and just burn the paper cartridge. It does saves them money but it wastes a little bit more of our time to do it. The aftermarket adapter for the oil filter can change the oil flow, pressure, and filtration. The oil capacity that a filter can hold are also a factor to engine life. The engineers design it for a reason they know the maximum and minimum of oil the will take when the oil bypass valve turns open. A good example be like hydraulic pressure. The flow rate is like 3 gpm and the pressure running through that be like 14 psi. I haven't check the link yet if it does provide those specs. It's a great idea but with some flaws just like car manufacturers.
Toyota OEM Cartridge oil filter works fine. Easy to change and easy to check the filter internals to check for any metalic objects. Not messy at all on my 2 Tundras.
In my opinion, you didn't use enough curse words to accurately describe that cartridge filter design. Toyota even made it worse on the latest engines - on the Tacoma they put the oil filter on the bottom of the engine where you have to completely remove the skid plate. They could have easily put a door/plate on the skid plate below the filter, but noooo....
It IS a pain, having to take out the 4 bolts to remove the skid plate..then have to reinstall!! The Aluminum TRD skid plate DOES have a little door with 2 screws…STILL…shouldn’t even need to remove 2 screws…
Not a mess if you follow the instructions on the filter box. You can see if there is any debris in the filter without cutting it apart. I like this better than the cans. Easy peasy. No solution needed. About time! This is fixing a problem that doesn't exist.
oh Man, do I need that baby!! You are so right, what a royal pain in the brain to get that off. I just bought a 2012 Toyota Corolla S. The oil change went badly. That Oil cap was put on to tight and probably the oil ring was dry. It was welded on. All tabs broke off to no avail. Now I have new oil with old oil filter :( disgusted!! ---- I will order that product for sure. How I surfed into this can only be by the Grace of GOD!! thank you so much!!
BMW and Mini has these, and they did it right (they're supposed to be facing up not down). They're cheaper since it's just the filter like the air filter not the whole air box too. you can still upgrade to a bigger filter from a BMW for a mini too.
Pretty cool. I don't really find the stock one that much of a pain, but its definitely not the best. At least it doesn't try to drain all over the electrical connection on the steering rack like my Mustang does.
I see how some people like the OEM cartridge’s for various legitimate reasons but I’m just used to spin on filters and you aren’t limited to just WIX, you can use other appropriate alternative filters.
Wow, been dealing with these since they came out and never really had a complaint or problem with them at all. Heck some of them even accept a standard canister filter type cup wrench. Just never occured to me that people found them a problem.
If it were me, I would consider installing it and IF any warranty work has to be done, just switch it back to a factory filter BEFORE taking it to the dealer.
I've done all of the maintenance on my mother's 2014 Camry since the dealership maintenance ended. I have never had any issues with the cover, torque it to 25 pounds, and use the drain function. But, I have been called out to help two friends/family with high mileage Corollas, that had been taking their cars to oil change places, and then decided to change the oil themselves. The covers were locked in place and started falling apart when trying to get them off with an adapter (of note, both were also missing the locking clips). These were also side mounted, so didn't have the drain option. Much chiseling and profanity ensued! So, I wouldn't get one of these adapters for my own Toyota, but I can definitely see the benefit for someone who is going to a quick change place, just be sure to let them know you have the adapter.
One advantage to the cartridge is that you can easily inspect the filter media for swarf at each oil change. Aside from that this is a smart improvement.
While I applaud your positive spirit, I am willing to bet money that the "positive" you listed was NEVER a reason why Toyota adopted the cannister. My money is on Toyo purposefully making it look "foreign" and SUPER messy to beginner DIY consumers in order to subliminally "Nudge" them into dealerships (to avoid the the mess and hassle) so that Toyota can ensure they sell more OEM filters while simultaneously boosting their dealer profits.
@@tundras4ever552 well I think that that SHOULD be the reason, I severely doubt that it is. I think it's more about driving sales to the dealership I'm making it more difficult and messy to change your oil.
I was frustrated because the WIX filter Baxter said to use is impossible to find or very expensive. I ordered the universal Toyota fit 501-BK for a 2017 Camry. After trying a lot of different filters I discovered that a FRAM Tough Guard TG4386 series filter works well. It is the same filter that a 2007 Camry uses and I have used them on it for 15 years , 260K miles on the car.
Interesting. We just got a 2018 Toyota Highlander. I plan on doing the retrofit. Baxter Performance suggests Wix 51335. Found them on Amazon for $8.74 - is that the one you were looking for?
I went ahead and bought the Baxter Mod for my wife's 2022 Lexus and my son helped to install-Thank you for the note at about 7:25 on the video on the compression of the installation which helped a lot along with the tilt. Thanks again.
Takes me less then 5min and IV never made a mess or had my hand covered in oil and yes they do have a back flow it's in the spring it's built differently and it's really easy to change no hassle at all I wouldn't mess with their engineering process usually Toyota and Lexus have it on lock and have very good quality I'm happy with the original cartridge style filter on my Toyota
Yes this would be a great positive addition to my Toyota Rav. But on a fixed income and in a wheel chair its going to be tough to come up with the $400 dollars for this adapter with shipping and tax! All the reviews I have seen for this adapter no one ever mentions the extremely HIGH cost.
Michael W. I agree with you that the $400 cost does NOT justify for the (maybe more) convenience. I would change the oil filter at home or hire a handyman to do this job and be sure to hand tight it as opposed to torque range tighten it as in the Toy. Dealers
As an express tech at Toyota. It’s really not that bad. Sometimes you’ll get one that’s a bit overtightened but overall they’re pretty painless once you get the hang of them. I’d still prefer they go back to spin on filters are I feel they provide better filtration
ECO Freaks are the cause of the plastic filter housings...Baxter has eliminated those crying 😢 clowns infringement on the home mechanic now!! GOOD 👍 VIDEO!!!!!
Just finished changing the oil and filter on my 2017 Tacoma. It is a giant pain compared to my brothers 2005 Tacoma with the canister filter on top of the engine. Like other posters I agree it is all a ploy to get owners into the dealership for an oil change. Dealerships today make most of there money on servicing vehicles. Wouldn't be so bad if it weren't so expensive and I could trust they'd do the job properly.
Great design but I'll stick with the OEM one. For a few reasons. #1 when the oil filter is vertical you don't need a check back drain valve.#2 You must use an aftermarket oil filter the OEM cartridge filters are superior to the aftermarket ones. #3 this will change the dynamic oil flow rate from the OEM. But I do agree the non - cartridge filter is a poor design. Shame on Toyota for doing that.
It wasn’t that long ago , maybe 15 years the oil filter on a Camry was on the top of the motor , no spills, spin on filter , worked great , then they moved it underneath, ridiculous
They must have had a lot of their better engineers retire during that period......and the new ones forgot the KISS ideology that Toyota was famous for.
Of course there will be a mess when you don’t drain it first. I find this Toyota method with the drain nozzle cleaner than old style spin on oil filters. But cleanest yet is my Subaru with the FA-/FB-series oil filter. It’s a spin on too high up in the engine compartment on the left side close to oil filler cap. Happy new year from Sweden!
I can tell you from experience.. I properly torque my bowl and drain cap, yet every time I do an oil change I fight like hell to get the drain cap off. The moment you apply force to loosen it, the entire bowl turns, thus beginning a cycle of (tighten filter bowl, attempt to loosen drain cap, tighten filter bowl, attempt to loosen drain cap, etc)
I fell for it!! Bought the TS401BK at $273.00 with tax and installed it on my Corolla because I hated hearing the dry start metal grinding sound during start ups!! Only problem is IT DONT WORK and changed nothing except now it has a spin on oil filter!! After sitting 2 days and really bad atc4 days sitting,then starting up it sounds exactly the same as it did BEFORE installing the Baxter Performance TS401BK
It's not a big deal to remove the plug at the bottom of the filter, insert the draining device that comes with the new filter, which drains all of the oil from the canister and then remove the canister. I guess this is personal preference as it seems that when you unscrew the filter, it's going to drain a little oil.
I use that stupid thing every time I change my oil, not only does it never drain all the oil but leaves plenty in there to make a fantastic mess once the seal from the o-ring is broken but getting the stupid thing out is a pain in the ass once everything is coated with oil also every time I've done it thus far in the 3 years I've owned my truck one of the little plastic tabs that clips into the hole snaps off and I have to dig it out with a pic or something. It's a pain in the ass and completely unnecessary
The reason why Toyota uses paper cartridge is paper filter is easier to do inspection when you removed it from filter housing, insp for metal or carbon residue and shavings, same as aircraft engine filters, VERY clever and nice! And you don't have to cut open the metal can to insp the filter! Although it makes bit mess, but for maintenance and inspection wise, I would say paper cartridge style is very good!
I Installed 1 years ago on my 2011 highlander V6 part# TS -101-BK ….And my other 1 on my 4Runner 2021 TS-201-BK makes my oil changes way easier and faster less messy, I do my own oil services works perfectly fine for my vehicles.
Nice thorough explanation. I just did my 1st oil change on my 21 tacoma 4x4 sport.I drive very little being takes me almost a yr for a change.The oem version does suck.My previous 14 tacoma with the 4 cyldr had a spin on far easier.I will hold off on any change until my warranty is over.Cool tho
Thats what I did when replacing my spark plugs, inserted, went lefty loosie until I felt and heard the click, knowing I found the threads, no problem at all with cross threading.
As a Lexus technician I hate the housings. some come seized the plastic ones in general and if they are too tight it cracks. The metal housing threads are a tad longer hence the mess. Overall I hate these things I wish I could sell these lmao maybe I should
You can swap to the aluminum ones. You just have to remove the inner tube and put the one that has the right length. The one from the 2gr sienna works best.
VERY similar design for the stock canister assembly as lots of jet engines and for that reason I'm fine with the stock setup. I'd be curious to see what microns that wimpy filter is good for compared to the stock one. Good luck.
I urge you to actually do some REAL research and find out the microns in a Genuine Toyota filter. For the 2gr-fe engine, the filtration is not very good. Only upgrade you can do is go to a TRD filter (but my hunch is that the TRD filter starves my VVTI so... it is what it is.
...I didn't know this about aircraft oil filters and when you said that, it occurred to me why they'd want to use a cannister type, presumably to make it easier to do an oil/filter analysis. Which on aircraft I'm guessing, they would want to do that fairly frequently?
Looks like a solution in search of a problem. Little square plug and oil filter supplied adapter are made to drain canister before removal. Never had any messes with mine.
I have been changing the oil in my Toyota Sequoia since it was new in 2011. It has always been a pain and I suspect as others have said that it is planned to make it difficult for DIYers. My OEM is plastic and I tried years ago to replace it with an aftermarket metal one but it always leaked, so I went back to the old one. I was surprised to see that this new setup has such a tiny filter cartridge. That cannot be good. Also the large "O" ring I noticed gets pretty hard from the engine heat, so you are probably going to find that you need to replace that from time to time. I am sticking to the OEM. Over 200k miles on mine and with the new car crap they are trying to sell us these days, I am going to try to get another 200-300k out of my big V8 polution machine.
I looked and could not find the Fram tool that you speak of. Please provide a part number or link and PLEASE make sure this will work with a CARTRIDGE style filter.
Thanks for the informative video. Having done about 20 oil changes for our Toyotas with cannisters over the past seven years I can atest that it is annoying and takes probably 3X as long to first drain the filter of oil and then unscrew the cartridge, remove and replace the cartridge, change two 0 rings and reinstall the canister. Getting one's hands a little oily always happens as well. However, I can live with that. What is more absurd to me is to purchase an adapter for $270 to alleviate that minor annoyance for vehicles that otherwise are pretty amazing.
Ok..It definately a quality adapter..But did everyone see the exposed spin on oil filter underneath..If you dont have a shield under there..Was it worth the 250.00+ repairs on filter contact with road conditions? Stick with the canister.....
The spin on filter looks really small after the adapter. I was wondering if the surface area for the filtering materiel is less because of the adapter.
I see why it's such a mess removing the cartridge. That 3/8" socket hole in the bottom is a cap that allows you to drain the filter before removing it. Do that, and you don't get near the mess. Nonetheless, I hate these cartridge filters too. I'll be looking into this. Thx
I found that that filter drain was just an exercise in ridiculousness. It drained very little oil from my filter so it literally left me with twice the mess. The mess of dealing with pre-draining the filter and then the mess of taking the filter cartridge off and haveing oil go everywhere anyways. It's so ridiculous that I'm getting mad about it (again) while I'm writing this.
@@joshbrown284 That little cap takes about half the torque that the filter does. It's probably too tight. Mine did that last time, and I tightened the filter a little and it came right off.
@@jotu2121 I bought an Amsoil filter which came with a very nice screw in plastic drain tube instead of the POS snap in one that comes with the Toyota filters. I kept it and use it every time now. Key thing is to leave it in after you drain it and while you remove the main cartridge housing. More oil will come out that way
@@condor5635 different engines have the filter oriented differently and, thus, oil flows out of the port on the bottom of the filter housing more difficultly from one model to the next. If your cartridge works for you then great. As far as the 2008 Avalon is concerned I think it stinks!
That tiny new spin-on wix filter is now the lowest object protruding from the bottom of the front of the the car. It will surely be the first point of impact if you happen to bottom out, no thanks.
For drain plug i replaced mine with a fumoto valve. That helps with the mess. I agree with the messiness of the oil filter and i cant remove the drain adapter without spinning the housing as well. Must have torqued too much. I would like to use this conversion kit but the price is a bit much (i have no doubt about the quality) and the lengthening of the filter close to the ground (2011 sienna). Another drawback is the metal of the "disposable " but "non biodegradable " filter. The pluses are less mess and you are not tied to Toyota filter.
One of my mechanics told me the reason some car makers dropped the spin-ons was that cannisters degrade quicker in landfills than spin-ons, making them better for the environment.
thanks for the video jotu , but wait a minute the horizontal plastic one has a drain . it is the 1/2 inch on the bottom. drains out most of the oil. but i agree ,its a pain somewhere. just what were they thinking.
I have a 2020 Toyota Tacoma with the cartridge filter if I go to the Baxter spin on filter adaptor will that modification void my warranty additionally, how do I know what new filter to buy to replace the only cartridge type? Thanks for the informative video JR
Toyota will probably discourage this (along with nearly any other ideas you might have), but I think "a way around it" would be to just do what you want and, if any issues, replace with old cartridge before attempting to claim warranty service. That being said, do what you are comfortable with doing. To be VERY clear... I AM NOT A PROFESSIONAL MECHANIC.
I like my SeaDoo oil filter cartridge - unscrew long bolt, remove cap, remove filter, insert new filter, put back together with new o-rings, and you are ready to fill up with new oil (if you pumped it out already)
This may work on vehicles that have high clearance and can use regular spin-on filters. However, many Toyota and Lexus cars like the 2015 Lexus RX should not use this product. The Baxter adapter adds at least 1-inch of length to the filter. Baxter tells you to use a shorty Wix 51335 or a Napa 1335 filter that is only 2.5 high -- to avoid hanging down too close to the road. These filters are not designed for the Lexus 3.5L V6 engine. It's too small and doe not offer enough filter elements to meet the needs of the engine. Please research before you buy. If you have enough clearance to use a full-size filter after you install the adapter, I highly recommend the Baxter spin-on adapter. But do not use it for the Lexus RX or any vehicle that requires you to use a shorty small filter.
I was just thinking that. It's a total disaster to happen in case you hit something underneath. Then your new frustration will supersede by far with comparison of only dealing with cleaning and fitting the old OEM ones in the good old days.
A solution to a problem that most of us didnt know was an issue. I never have made a mess removing the oil filter or "battled" with it in any way, shape or form.
I installed this on my 2014 Avalon a few days ago. For me it wasn't necessarily for convenience, but you now have a filter installed with a backflow valve. My valve train is now silent at start up...even after a weekend of sitting. For me, the price is a good trade off. It's not a pre-oiler, but it is bound to help.
You're still going to have the same oily mess when to remove your spin off filter because the oil isn't drained so all you really gained is a little convenience for added cost.
The filter is that size only for the 08 Avalon (possibly other years of Avalons too). for other cars, filters will be bigger / filters will vary by engine bay space and engine size / specs along with your personal preferences.
@@yone2002 It isn't "funny" that, before you make FALSE ACCUSATIONS about someones integrity, you don't (AGAIN) check your facts. Search this comment page (make sure you scroll to bottom first and then use ctrl F) for a post by user FreddyXP and look in the replies. You will see that, not only did I leave yours posted, I informed you that I made the changes. Then again, this level of research (on your behalf) should not surprise me based on (generally speaking) the unresearched comments & OPINIONS in your other posts. To quote you "Haha"... you do almost ZERO research prior to posting your OPINIONS. To be totally, fair, if you want to "do the right thing", you should strongly consider deleting THIS false & accusatory remark yourself as 1) it is FALSE. 2) It only serves to challenge YOUR credibility (not mine). Also, an apology would be greatly appreciated. I am in a hurry now so I will read the other post you made later. I wish you only the best.
@@jotu2121 If I may add something here. Check with Baxter on oil filters as I had a problem of leaks until I found the correct one through the help of Baxter Performance.
If you pull the plug and drain the filter as it is designed it isn’t as messy. This system has worked of Toyota for years and years, I see no reason to fix something that isn’t broken.
Exactly, it works for TOYOTA and NOT the consumer. It intimidates some consumers into getting dealer oil changes. If you like it, more power to you... but MANY OTHERS DO NOT!!!
Our 2010 Kluger has an allen headed screw in plug at the bottom off the filter; undo it, and in the filter kit is a push in plastic drain that goes in to allow filter oil drain. Australian Kluger for reference
Great upgrade. Too bad its pricey over $200. Just did my wife's 2016 4 runner limited and wasn't so bad. I use black latex gloves to keep hands clean and torque the drain plug to 10ft-lbs and 25ft-lbs for the canister. The plug always comes off without spinning the whole canister at those torque values. Use a screw on plastic drain valve that comes with the new filter instead of the push in type, no mess at all. I used an amsoil filter and it came with the screw on valve instead of the push in to snap into place. The only time consuming part is taking off the skid plate and plastic shroud in front of it for easy access.
Did you have to modify the skid plate on the 4Runner? I was told that the filter will be too low if you don't cut a hole for it to extend a libit. Have a 2014 and the Baxter unit but am hesitant until I know about skid plate. Thanks!
Best $200.00 I ever spent. 3 times I had to take mine to a garage to get the filter off. I would spend it again to avoid the headaches I've went through.
Watch the torque spec on the cartridge. It is only 18 foot lbs. If you over torque it will be tough to remove and is prone to cracking. I agree $248 is a no way for me.
100% worth it IMO after doing 4 of these changes, I’ve already spent $100 on replacement plastic cartridges (they break) and special tools! I was about to order another aluminum replacement cartridge and matco removal tool, combined cost over $100 to replace the old worn out cartridge and tool. Found this video just in time, will save me plenty of money in the long term not to mention headaches.
I prefer the Toyota cartridge. It makes less mess and waste compared to a spin-on, when done per instructions. Can we see some footage of an oil filter change with this Baxter setup?
I just found your channel after ours posted a similar video. As a fellow RUclipsr, I have to say, your content is amazing. Nice work! I just subscribed. You're about to hit 1000 subscribers - and you deserve many more!!
The oil filter should be removed first, because it takes much less time to drain all of the oil out of the filter housing, than it does to drain all of the oil out from the oil pan! I always allow at least one to two hours to drain the oil from the drain plug! This way I get much more of the old oil out than I could, if I only let it drain for say, fifteen minutes!
I'm not sure if I agree with your removing the oil filter first technique. But (changing gears)... Since it takes so long for YOUR oil to fully drain out of the engine (2 hrs), it sounds like you're doing it with the engine & oil cold???? If so, you should at least know that the engine SHOULD be warmed up to operating temperature when changing the oil. For further confirmation just Google the subject. The point is to get all the impurities suspended and moving around in the oil and then dumping all the oil QUICKLY out while the impurities are still suspended. A side benefit is that the oil comes out much faster when it's hot.
@@jotu2121 No, I always drain the oil when it is hot! Even hot oil will continue dripping for more than one or two hours later! The longer you let it drain, the more old oil you will get out of the oil pan!
I always change the oil after I have driven the car for several miles, to make sure that the engine is up to operating temperature! With the oil filter taken off first, and then the oil draining from the pan next, I can take my time cleaning the filter housing, and installing the new filter, while the oil is still draining from the oil pan!
@@jotu2121 Why would you not agree with removing the oil filter first? Also, on many cars, if you open the drain plug first, the oil draining out, will be in the way of me trying to remove the oil filter! It makes much more sense to remove the oil filter first, for the reasons I have stated!
Sure wish I’d have found this while we owned a Toyota minivan. But since we’ll never make THAT mistake again, we’ll just fine this under, “Of f*kin’ well.”
The reason our beloved Toyota/Lexus changed to these stupid cannisters is the same reason they deleted the ATF dipstick, it is obvious and the very first thing when I found that newer cars had taken the giant step BACKWARDS for these things. Toyota wants to discourage DIY mechanics from doing anything that would make their car last longer, and making oil change a PITA is a subtle move against people who maintain their own cars. But it is the true reason, since there is absolutely no good reason for them to design them the way they are doing it now.
SPOT-ON & EXACTLY what I tell anyone who will listen.
"Toyota wants to discourage DIY mechanics from doing anything that would make their car last longer"
Yeah, it's a vast conspiracy :roll eyes: It's different than a spin -on filter, but not a big deal if you make the effort to understand how it's supposed to be serviced.
Separate element also let's you "pre-oil" the element a bit, to eliminate the first 1-2 seconds of engine operation with little or no oil pressure -- that's good for engine long life.
I had an early 2000s BMW that had a similar replaceable element, and a separate housing. But, the BMW's housing was near the top of the engine and pointed "up" , so virtually no spillage. That was about the only thing I liked better on the BMW.
@@appalachie I seriously retract my entire comment. On a Lexus forum I read somebody in the industry, that said EPA was leaning on the car makers to make a transmission that can go at least 100K miles on its fluid, and this is why they pre-empted the whole C.f. and had their suppliers reformulate the ATF to make it go at least that long, and why they deliberately made it harder to change it, and to change engine oil as well. So it is not Toyota's fault it is EPA's, which is what counts to me at least.
@@appalachie I would probably have ZERO complaints if the setup was like your BMW. That being said, I am sure you know this, but for SOME reason (roll eyes) failed to mention it... you can A-L-S-O pre oil the cannister filters too.
There’s a reason why they switched to this style of oil filter canisters. Two they are very durable. My 2017 Highlander has over 350k miles and its never broken. I do oil changes every 5k miles. That over 70 times I have taken this thing apart.
I just saw the end of this video. Yeah definitely do not buy this adapter.
Never been a mess for me. That plastic tube that comes with the filter is to drain the cannister before you remove it. Alot of cars with cannister filters didn't have this feature. I don't find this design difficult at all.
I laughed my ass off when this bone head took that filter bowl off before draining it
@@oveidasinclair982 I laughed mine off when he talked about no back flow prevention. Like the oil can defy gravity.
He treated this just like a spin on filter. He didn't like that. So he converts it to....um a spin on oil filter. That seems dumb to me. I believe you also reduce capacity by at least a little bit. I like the option of removing the drain plug and putting in the plastic fitting. Some people change their oil more often than the filter, and this allows it to be done more thoroughly.
Me neither... this thing is $300+++ No way
I have no problem with them, and I have them on my Tundra and Lexus.
I had Mercedes and Alfas with canister type filters. Never an issue. The real advantage was that one was not buying a filter with possible bad threads or defective internals. You could see the actual filter and confirm it was in good condition before install. The canister itself was well made and leak free. Prefer it to the spin on filters.
Indeed. If he didn't want to make a f'ing mess, FOLLOW THE PROPER PROCEDURE (drain the thing before removal) If Toyota is to get any scorn, it's for using g.. d... plastic cans. (I have yet to see one removed without damage. no surprise most dealerships always replace them.) Maybe the way overpriced adapter has anti-backflow, but the cheap screw on filter sure as h... doesn't. Also take note, the screw on filter shown is HALF the size of the factory canister filter, and hangs well below the factory canister.
For $250.00 I can live with the little mess stock oil cartridge. Wear gloves, get a big oil drain pan.
😂Fr Fr
That is true. 250 seems like a greedy cash grab for a precision engineering plastic cnc machine product
I don't like that itty bitty oil filter. 🤔
Yup.. I’d be a player at 70 bucks . Lol
If you’re DIY enough to be changing your own oil, the 20 seconds to fit the supplied drain plug every 6 months doesn’t seem to be a $270 effort.
I’ve really come to love the Toyota design for a couple reasons. First, by allowing drainback you get a more complete oil change. Second, the vertical orientation of the filter means you don’t need drainback prevention. Third, the elements have no metal on them and thus the manufacturing process cannot cause small metal burrs to remain on the metal parts. (Spin on filters are notorious for generating debris when spun on). Fourth, the filters come with a drain provision in the cover- insert the plastic nipple, press open the drain check ball under the cover, and drain all the filter with no mess. Fifth, the lack of metal in the elements simplifies manufacturing and allows an equivalent quality filter media to be make a cheaper overall filter.
I see a lot of advantages to the Toyota setup. But I’m biased because I’m an engineer that specializes in these kinds of things.
Well spoken, as an aviation mechanic that now does auto work...I agree with your statement.
All great points, I would also say that as a consumer who tries to reduce wasted material whenever I can, it sure does feel better to toss a filter, rather than a spin on where you’re throwing away a filter, metal, silicon and whatever else it’s made of.
Engineer as well here, all valid points, but I'm also biased haha
Obviously you have not done many oil changes with this system. I bet you never had one of the plastic housings break either.
@@hillbillysportsman5818 mine are all metal. And I have 347k miles between two lexuses with them and do every oil change myself.
I totally agree with you about Toyota's terrible design. However, I have a few concerns for using the adapter:
1. Too pricey ($250 + tax for mine)
2. I have to downsize the capacity of the filter.
3. If I keep the same oil filter size, the filter bottom would be too close the ground and might hit bumps or objects on the ground.
U can buy an oil filter housing for the same motor for the can style oil filter
May concern would be a voiding of any warranty claim by modifying the oil filtration designed by Toyota, flawed or not…
@ron mcelroy And paying $250 to void your warranty. That stub spin on filter looks suspicious as well. Might be ok but rolling the dice on a $50K vehicle warranty is insane.
250 dollars!!! No thanks
thats why he EMPHASIZED it is AMERICAN MADE lmao. American made = expensive :) you have to pay for it.
I’m 71 and just changed the oil on my Tundra myself for the first time. I always had the dealer do it. Their price rose to $98+ so I bought a 12 qt Mobil 1 oil in a box, a toyota filter and a crush washer and even after buying a MotiveX ($30) wrench to remove the filter housing I still saved a lot of money. And it will be much cheaper from here on out since I won’t be buying anything but the oil, filter and washer. Probably $50 total. As far as the mess…who cares? It’s not like I change the oil every week. I change it a 3k intervals. In my case that’s once a year as I use my truck mainly for towing our camper. At $200+ for this contraption I can stand a little oil running down my rubber gloved hand. 😊
They are very clean if drained before removing it from the vehicles from the bottom of it. I love the design because you can inspect filter media before and after oil change. Who knows what quality is in the oil filters contained in metal. Also clearance can be an issue using this adapter as well on the Sienna vehicles. Nice video.
Congratulations, I think you may be the first person that has given what is in my opinion a very good reason for the cartridge and that is being able to inspect the media after the oil change. I had not thought about that. That is a valuable insight to be able to take advantage of if you choose to do so. That being said, I do not. That it is worth it to me to sacrifice the option to be able to do that for the convenience of a canister filter. Also, in case you do not know or maybe we're just not willing to do so. You are able to cut open the canister filters to look at the media inside. Many RUclipsrs have done so. Of course it's not as easy as with the cartridge, but it is what it is.
@@jotu2121 ...but you missed my main point of seeing the filter media before installing is critical as well for cutting open a can filter makes it useless before hand. So the one extra step to drain the filter with the included plastic adapter is simple and prevents the mess that the few complain about. I can say a few times I saw filters that were cut open only to find that the filter media was torn or not even seamed together correctly causing oil to bypass the filter media completely. Finally to see the media used in the filament is also important for not all media is created equal as well. So that being said there is no problem with this proven design which has been around for over 11 years and counting without issues. The only thing I upgraded was my 2019 Toyota Sienna SE Premium plastic assembly with the metal version. As for this assembly adapter as stated before may hang down too far below the vehicle and be a hazard on some Toyota vehicles.
@@CharlesBridgTec but the canister filter has no back pressure check valve
@@JayElement13 Sure does. The whole filter can canister core tube move which will bypass the filter if it were to clog.
I too like the fact I can look at the dirty filter to see if there are metal particles and such. I think the design works well.
While I agree a spin on filter is much nicer, the filter you are using with the kit has what appears to be approximately 50% less filter media. While the 2.5 Toyota runs rather clean I’ll always prefer more filter capacity over convenience. Also with the adapter and the small filter the filter now hangs below the oil pan witch in your case has seen some abrasion already. So if that were to happen again you have now opened your oil system and if not caught in time will lead to total engine failure.
Best design I think, can drain it first without mess, can drain it only without changing it, can inspect without cutting, I love it.
Toyota's filter housing is one of the worst to remove. It usually takes an extreme amount of force to back these off due to the large o-ring. Glad this Baxter product exists, and great video!
MADE IN USA IT IS THE RIGHT THING TO DO. MY CAMRY HAVE THIS PROBLEM NEVER GIVE BUSSINES TO TOYOTA. THRE MERCEDES I OWN AND OIL CHANGE WAS A BREEEZZEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEE
FYI: I am not affiliated with any company or products! I am just a Reliability Enthusiast!
The lack of an Oil Drain Back valve in the Toyota Cartridge Filter leads to dry start scenario, only if the car sits for awhile as the oil in the cartridge filter drains out quickly. JRSVIDS makes this very clear.
Don't know where this statement came from, maybe a myth? "Cold or Dry starts are known to cause 50% of the engine wear over time." Wish I could find the original article and authors findings. There would be some interesting study finds to base this statement on for sure.
If the car sits for 12 hours or more, the oil in the engine bearing lubrication system also drains back to the oil pan further adding to the already dry start scenario due to the lack of an Anti-Drain-Back-Valve in the oil filter. This is a significant factor to be aware of as this lack of oil creates a dry start & could reduce the useful life of an engine.
This next statement is referencing excessive wear due to the dry start, [So the engine is turning when the ignition key has been engaged, it will come close to adequate pressure and flow before firing and now in a run scenario, but there is a period of time, the engine is turning but no oil to lubricate moving parts, [Depending on how long it sat] thus the dry start. The lack of oil due to the time it takes the oil pump to fill the oil filter and charge the lubricating system of the engine to provide viscous pressurized lubrication.
If you check your dipstick hot after shutting the engine off, then check 12, 24 or a couple of days later, you will notice the longer the engine sits, the higher the oil level climbs on the dipstick This increased level of oil is from the oil draining from the Filter, if no Anti-Drain-Back-Valve and the Lubrication System in your engine.
I first learned this after reading an article that there can be 5 to 10% of the oil still remaining in the engine after removing the oil pan drain plug and initial drain flow has ceased. To prove this theory, I did just that, performed an oil change with a long drain span.
My truck had a 5.5 quart oil capacity (SAE 10w30 Oil) with filter, I left the filter on during the test. After the oil steam at the drain plug stopped flowing to a drip into the drain pan, I put a funnel on an graduated empty quart oil bottle, placed it under the oil drain port and left it for 4 days. At 12 hours, I had just over 10 oz of oil in the bottle, 24 hours measured 13 oz. At 4 days, I had 14.5 oz of oil had drained from the oil pan.
Drain plug back in..... Installed a new filter, 5.5 qts of oil. Start the engine and let run for 2 minutes, let sit for 30 mins, oil level showed half a quart low on the dipstick. Now my system held 6 qts of oil after draining for 4 days. Yes, I created a dry start scenario, probably of the worst kind. I just wanted to know.
My priority and purpose in installing a BAXTER Spin-On Adapter is that I can now install a much high efficient Spin-On Canister oil filter.
Please see below the GM Field Study relating wear causing particulate particles found by testing in the oil and its effect related to rate of wear and Oil Filter Efficiency.
By using the BAXTER Adapter, there is now a larger selection of Oil filters to choose from. I am able to choose filters with many available lengths, diameters using a 3/4"x16 thread fitment, many different efficiencies and um ratings, up to a 99% Efficient, Beta 100 Oil Filter rated at 15ums. The engine oil could now last 2 to 3x longer, rate of wear reduced by 95% are now possible.
Article from BF at Machinery Lubrication: Anti-drainback Valve Function
Prevents contaminant backwash at shut-down and momentary starvation at engine starts. Typically made of nitrile or silicone. Silicone may remain more flexible in cold weather.
The filter media must remove particles from the oil in the target size range (10 microns for instance), depending on the reliability objectives of the car owner. Obviously, a small micron-size oil filter is associated with lower wear rates and prolonged engine life (more on this later from the GM Filter Study).
The filter must also be able to remove particles fast enough to keep up with the rate new particles arrive into the oil (ingression rate). This is referred to as the contamination control material balance. In an engine, the pump circulates the oil in a multipass fashion, giving the oil filter more than one opportunity to remove particles.
Most oil filters have anti-drainback flapper valves, but not all. The flapper is a diaphragm and is usually made of a soft elastomer material like silicone or nitrile.
These valves prevent oil from draining back to the sump when the engine is turned off. There are two benefits to this. One is it prevents dirt from backwashing off the outside of the filter media and into the sump.
The second is it keeps the spin-on canister full of oil. When the engine restarts, oil is immediately able to move into the main oil gallery and then to active zones of the engine without needing to refill the spin-on can - momentarily siphoning the pump supply.
This avoids a dry start (oil starvation) of the valve train (especially overhead cam configurations), turbocharger and bearings. Such dry starts are reported to cause knock and rattle. The anti-drainback valve feature is typically also required when the oil filter is oriented in the horizontal or inverted position.
Most car oil filters also have built-in bypass valves. The exception is when the bypass valve is permanently mounted in the engine block. A bypass valve is beneficial to avoid collapsing of the filter in case it becomes plugged before a change-out.
Likewise, during cold morning starts, the thick viscous oil can momentarily bypass the filter without damaging it, until it heats up and thins out. Still, there is a real possibility that you can impair oil filter performance if you rev an engine on start when the oil is very cold. Revving an engine in that circumstance is never advised.
Here is an excerpt from BITOG:
This article discuss;s rate of wear after the lubricating system is at pressure, engine is running, but oil system not up to temperature, the first 15-20 minutes: The Effect of Break-In and Operating Conditions on Piston Ring and Cylinder Bore Wear in SI (Spark-Ignition) Engines, Schneider et al:
The rate of wear is much higher within 15-20 minutes of start-up than after reaching normal operating temperature. There was a lot of data but I conclude that the initial start-up time period (first 20 minutes) result is 100 nanometers of wear whereas the steady state wear rate was only 4 nanometers per hour thereafter. (Hence we should be concerned about start-up oil thickness more than running thickness. This justifies the statement that 95 percent of engine wear occurs just after start-up).
GM Study - Influence of Filtration on Engine Wear:
AC Delco Division of General Motors tested diesel engines and found an eight-fold improvement in wear rates and engine life with lower lube oil contaminant levels.
In a related study on both diesel and automotive engines, General Motors reported that “compared to a 40-micron filter, engine wear was reduced by 50 percent with 30-micron filtration. Likewise, wear was reduced by 70 percent with 15-micron filtration”. Read that again. That's a lot of motivation for clean oil!
Hope this helps. I personally think that the BAXTER Adapter is well worth the cost to me, considering our Reliability Objectives, factoring convenience, reduction in labour and more importantly the opportunity to use a higher efficient oil filter & extend the useful life of your oil and the engine. I understand the cost factor, its hard to justify as the long term benefits are difficult to measure.
I thank the publisher of this video, it was thought provoking for me. I think this US made Spin-On Filter Adapter is a cutting edge breakthrough and will hopefully inspire more companies to make available designs that will help consumers improve the reliability of their vehicles, keep them longer thus reducing cost of ownership. Thanks
I change my Tacoma oil every 5k. I installed a Fumoto drain valve so I never have a mess. My filter cartridge, when done correctly, is a breeze. I have a plastic tube and bottle to pre-drain the cartridge. It is easy with the correct tools and no mess. No need to replac3 it.
VW and MB did top screw filter like 30 years ago ,why can't other makers do it ?
DUDE I LOVE YOU!!! I've been fighting with that DAMN cartridge filter for 5 FREAKIN years! I just changed the oil on the wife's 2016 Rav 4 for the last time,I'm getting one of these! Prior to the 2016 we had a 2012 but the wife was hit by a car full of teens. Anyway for some reason I did a search on YT to see if anyone made a conversion kit and I'll be danged there you are and this was TWO FREAKIN years ago I have no idea why I didn't think of this sooner. Anyway thank you for posting this you're a lifesaver!!
Your welcom & thnak YOU for the wonderful gratitude! :-)
I have 2 vehicles with the 2gr-fks engine with these canisters.
Never had any problem with them myself, and haven't noticed more oil spill than I've had with a horizontal aluminum style. I've never used the bottom plug / plastic piece gizmo to drain the plastic piece either. Wear gloves, & take your time.
Seems due to the space inside the adapter and above the spin-on filter that will hold oil, this method will make even more of a mess than properly draining the cartridge filter prior to removal. I'd like to see how much oil still spills/drains out as you remove the spin-on filter.
I think you're right, the only advantage I was looking for was the need for fewer tools.
Most excellent point! All that oil above will drain all over the place. Don’t fix it if it ain’t broken
The new version has a shrader valve, and it pushes the oil out with compressed air .
I've owned
2010 Corolla,
2013 Camry,
now have a 2022 RAV4.
I'm happy to say that Toyota changed to a spin on filter for the RAV4. Hooray!
Great news
A friend gave me a Baxter TS-101-BK that he took off his Tacoma before he traded it in for a new truck. At first I was skeptical because of the short oil filter in this video that I would need to keep the filter from scraping the ground on my 2016 Camry. Then, I did some research and found that the Mobil 1 filter (M1-102A) that my 2018 Tacoma uses and would fit my Camry is 3.375" tall and 3" diameter. The Wix filter 51335 is only 2.483" tall but is 3.67" in diameter. I physically compared the two. The Wix is much larger looking. I'm no math genius but I figure the media coverage of the two is about the same. I installed the adapter and the Wix filter last weekend. The filter hangs higher than the oil pan. Plus, since the spin on has a anti drain back valve, the VVTI doesn't make the annoying rattle on cold start up anymore. So far, I'm happy with the modification.
Note: I've been told that Toyota has eliminated the cartridge filter and went back to the spin on.
Thank you so much for this valuable and detailed (about spin on filters) information. I greatly appreciate your comment! 🙂
I PUT ONE ON MY GRANDAUGHTER'S TOYOTA SUV AND I LOVE IT. IT TAKES A SORT OF FLAT OIL FILTER FROM NAPA. SO FAR 4 CHANGES AND ABOUT ONE YEAR IT IS WORKING GRESAT! LOVE IT! EASY CLEAN CHANGES. WORTH THE MONEY
I've been changing the oil on my Tundra every 6 months or 5,000 miles since 2012 and have never had a mess when changing the cartridge.
Jo Tu, your opening soliloquy SO poignantly captured the visceral angst and frustration I experienced when I tried to remove the filter housing on my 2012 Gen 3 Prius, after a Toyota dealer torqued it so tight that I broke a removal tool and was forced to abandon a filter change.
Then I found your video and was inspired to buy a Baxter adapter. I ended up using an impact wrench (after buying another removal tool) to break loose the old filter housing-- which I gleefully threw in the trash with the removal tool still attached.
The Baxter solution is great for the Prius because there's plenty of room for the unit, which lies horizontally; thus there are no ground clearance concerns. I also installed a ValvoMax drain valve. Oil changes are now so easy that I plan to do them myself every 5000 miles (rather than the Toyota specified 10,000). The more frequent filter change intervals (to my mind) alleviate concerns about the somewhat smaller filtration element.
Thank you for your well written and thought out comment... I really enjoyed it. Happy that things have worked out for you. I have a low-level caution that I later discovered about the Valvomax. After installing it, I developed a very, very, slow leak and was unsure of what was leaking... could be the oil pan or whatever. After diagnosis, I have come to the conclusion that the Valvomax was simply not tightened enough at installation (because the recommended Valvomax torque spec is to low) leading to a very slow leak that will build up oil somewhere (lowest point of engine under oil plug) over time. After considering many things, I came to the conclusion that, for my vehicle (and probably most, or all, others), that the Valvomax recommended torque of 15-18 Ftlbs is simply wrong and should be adjusted closer to factory torque specs >>> FOR YOUR SPECIFIC VEHICLE
Toyota recommended 10K oil change. Yeh follow that just like the lifetime ATF fluid. I’m sure you follow that. Cartridges are not that big of a deal- well unless you let some goober at the dealer ruin the experience for you
I agree the plastic ones suck cause they are very easy to overtighten and the next guy who tries to loosen it the plastic ears break. They do make a mess, but the metal ones dont break, and its nice being able to inspect the filter pleets during an oil change and not needing any extra cutting tools or time to look at it.
Smaller filter size seems a little sketchy
You can put a larger (longer) spin on filter on this.
The filter on my 2011 Tacoma is larger than the one on my 2007 gmc 6.0l so there is no rhyme or reason for filter size
Yey no way. Asking for trouble messing with what was engineered. As for oil changes being a " Huge mess" ummm not really.
I have a 4runner that is about as big a PIA as Toyotas get. I did buzz my clips off my front slider made life easier. OMG I just saw the price. You are Nuts.
If you understand how to use their cartridge oil filter system it's really easy and not messy at all plus it reduces unnecessary waste by eliminating the can. I do prefer the spin on filters but I don't mind Toyota's solution either. It's just a few extra steps.
As a mechanic myself, the catridge design is a pain in the ass. When I try to drain the oil from the filter, it spun the whole cartridge which I thought was kind of strange. The plastic cartridge does get stuck. The aluminum version is a lot better than the plastic. It does provide a little bit of heat dissapation and it won't strip on you. The aluminum version is my preferred way to go.
The way how you explain and do things. I see that you change both oil and filter at every change. Nothing wrong with that. It just that engineers didn't need to design this. The engineers probably design this is to reduce metal filters going to waste and just burn the paper cartridge. It does saves them money but it wastes a little bit more of our time to do it.
The aftermarket adapter for the oil filter can change the oil flow, pressure, and filtration. The oil capacity that a filter can hold are also a factor to engine life. The engineers design it for a reason they know the maximum and minimum of oil the will take when the oil bypass valve turns open. A good example be like hydraulic pressure. The flow rate is like 3 gpm and the pressure running through that be like 14 psi. I haven't check the link yet if it does provide those specs.
It's a great idea but with some flaws just like car manufacturers.
REAL PAIN TRUE CURSE WORD EVERY TIME I CHANGE THE OIL EVERY TIME
Toyota OEM Cartridge oil filter works fine. Easy to change and easy to check the filter internals to check for any metalic objects. Not messy at all on my 2 Tundras.
The canister works fine. The mistake is the adapter you offer.
In my opinion, you didn't use enough curse words to accurately describe that cartridge filter design. Toyota even made it worse on the latest engines - on the Tacoma they put the oil filter on the bottom of the engine where you have to completely remove the skid plate. They could have easily put a door/plate on the skid plate below the filter, but noooo....
It IS a pain, having to take out the 4 bolts to remove the skid plate..then have to reinstall!! The Aluminum TRD skid plate DOES have a little door with 2 screws…STILL…shouldn’t even need to remove 2 screws…
Not a mess if you follow the instructions on the filter box. You can see if there is any debris in the filter without cutting it apart. I like this better than the cans. Easy peasy. No solution needed. About time! This is fixing a problem that doesn't exist.
oh Man, do I need that baby!! You are so right, what a royal pain in the brain to get that off. I just bought a 2012 Toyota Corolla S. The oil change went badly. That Oil cap was put on to tight and probably the oil ring was dry. It was welded on. All tabs broke off to no avail. Now I have new oil with old oil filter :( disgusted!! ---- I will order that product for sure. How I surfed into this can only be by the Grace of GOD!! thank you so much!!
BMW and Mini has these,
and they did it right (they're supposed to be facing up not down).
They're cheaper since it's just the filter like the air filter not the whole air box too.
you can still upgrade to a bigger filter from a BMW for a mini too.
Pretty cool. I don't really find the stock one that much of a pain, but its definitely not the best. At least it doesn't try to drain all over the electrical connection on the steering rack like my Mustang does.
The filter location is a dream in this video. On 2014+ corollas the filter is horizontal right close up against other metal structures.
I see how some people like the OEM cartridge’s for various legitimate reasons but I’m just used to spin on filters and you aren’t limited to just WIX, you can use other appropriate alternative filters.
Name me one advantage that you can see of the Toyota cartridge style filter ?
Wow, been dealing with these since they came out and never really had a complaint or problem with them at all. Heck some of them even accept a standard canister filter type cup wrench. Just never occured to me that people found them a problem.
Thanks for the comment. My video has over 177K views as I write this. That should tell you and the rest of the world that THERE IS A PROBLEM!!!
Nice video review …. I have been considering this adapter but I’m too concerned about voiding my Tundra warranty.
If it were me, I would consider installing it and IF any warranty work has to be done, just switch it back to a factory filter BEFORE taking it to the dealer.
@@jotu2121 I was thinking the same thing
I've done all of the maintenance on my mother's 2014 Camry since the dealership maintenance ended. I have never had any issues with the cover, torque it to 25 pounds, and use the drain function.
But, I have been called out to help two friends/family with high mileage Corollas, that had been taking their cars to oil change places, and then decided to change the oil themselves. The covers were locked in place and started falling apart when trying to get them off with an adapter (of note, both were also missing the locking clips). These were also side mounted, so didn't have the drain option. Much chiseling and profanity ensued!
So, I wouldn't get one of these adapters for my own Toyota, but I can definitely see the benefit for someone who is going to a quick change place, just be sure to let them know you have the adapter.
One advantage to the cartridge is that you can easily inspect the filter media for swarf at each oil change. Aside from that this is a smart improvement.
While I applaud your positive spirit, I am willing to bet money that the "positive" you listed was NEVER a reason why Toyota adopted the cannister. My money is on Toyo purposefully making it look "foreign" and SUPER messy to beginner DIY consumers in order to subliminally "Nudge" them into dealerships (to avoid the the mess and hassle) so that Toyota can ensure they sell more OEM filters while simultaneously boosting their dealer profits.
@@jotu2121 it’s to reduce waste ♻️
@@tundras4ever552 well I think that that SHOULD be the reason, I severely doubt that it is. I think it's more about driving sales to the dealership I'm making it more difficult and messy to change your oil.
And less metal filters to recycle ♻️.
@@marcinpasnicki248 Please reread my reply to the prior recycle advocate / commenter. My answer still stands.
Had a is250 and it was never a issues, and all i did was use ramps . This is a $250 solution to a non existent problem
I was frustrated because the WIX filter Baxter said to use is impossible to find or very expensive. I ordered the universal Toyota fit 501-BK for a 2017 Camry. After trying a lot of different filters I discovered that a FRAM Tough Guard TG4386 series filter works well. It is the same filter that a 2007 Camry uses and I have used them on it for 15 years , 260K miles on the car.
Interesting. We just got a 2018 Toyota Highlander. I plan on doing the retrofit. Baxter Performance suggests Wix 51335. Found them on Amazon for $8.74 - is that the one you were looking for?
Yup, that's my 2011 Toyota Camry LE 2ARFE cannister.
I went ahead and bought the Baxter Mod for my wife's 2022 Lexus and my son helped to install-Thank you for the note at about 7:25 on the video on the compression of the installation which helped a lot along with the tilt. Thanks again.
The pleasure is all mine. Glad I could help!
So Zama have you had any problems with oil pressure, leakage or (God forbid), engine noise?
Takes me less then 5min and IV never made a mess or had my hand covered in oil and yes they do have a back flow it's in the spring it's built differently and it's really easy to change no hassle at all I wouldn't mess with their engineering process usually Toyota and Lexus have it on lock and have very good quality I'm happy with the original cartridge style filter on my Toyota
Yes this would be a great positive addition to my Toyota Rav. But on a fixed income and in a wheel chair its going to be tough to come up with the $400 dollars for this adapter with shipping and tax! All the reviews I have seen for this adapter no one ever mentions the extremely HIGH cost.
Michael W.
I agree with you that the $400 cost does NOT justify for the (maybe more) convenience.
I would change the oil filter at home or hire a handyman to do this job and be sure to hand tight it as opposed to torque range tighten it as in the Toy. Dealers
$400 buys a lot of oil filters
As an express tech at Toyota. It’s really not that bad. Sometimes you’ll get one that’s a bit overtightened but overall they’re pretty painless once you get the hang of them. I’d still prefer they go back to spin on filters are I feel they provide better filtration
ECO Freaks are the cause of the plastic filter housings...Baxter has eliminated those crying 😢 clowns infringement on the home mechanic now!! GOOD 👍 VIDEO!!!!!
Just finished changing the oil and filter on my 2017 Tacoma. It is a giant pain compared to my brothers 2005 Tacoma with the canister filter on top of the engine. Like other posters I agree it is all a ploy to get owners into the dealership for an oil change. Dealerships today make most of there money on servicing vehicles. Wouldn't be so bad if it weren't so expensive and I could trust they'd do the job properly.
Great design but I'll stick with the OEM one. For a few reasons. #1 when the oil filter is vertical you don't need a check back drain valve.#2 You must use an aftermarket oil filter the OEM cartridge filters are superior to the aftermarket ones. #3 this will change the dynamic oil flow rate from the OEM. But I do agree the non - cartridge filter is a poor design. Shame on Toyota for doing that.
#2 is only orret if you change it to "some aftermarket filters" because some are superior.
Wix, PUROLATOR=""BOSS""! MOBIL 1, FRAM ULTRA!! ALL ARE OIL FILTERS BETTER THAN OEM!! THEY USE A SUPERIOR SYTHNETHIC MEDIA!!
@@jotu2121 Correct!! The top oil filters are just as good as OEM, AND EVEN BETTER!!
No.
@@captainamericaamerica8090 like Ams oil filter at only 5x the price.
They are usually hanging vertically so therefore maintained full. Also, the metal of replacement filters makes them hard to dispose of.
It wasn’t that long ago , maybe 15 years the oil filter on a Camry was on the top of the motor , no spills, spin on filter , worked great , then they moved it underneath, ridiculous
They must have had a lot of their better engineers retire during that period......and the new ones forgot the KISS ideology that Toyota was famous for.
51335 Wix or by another name NAPA Gold 1335... isn't that a lawnmower filter!? How's that an improvement!?
Of course there will be a mess when you don’t drain it first.
I find this Toyota method with the drain nozzle cleaner than old style spin on oil filters. But cleanest yet is my Subaru with the FA-/FB-series oil filter. It’s a spin on too high up in the engine compartment on the left side close to oil filler cap.
Happy new year from Sweden!
I can tell you from experience.. I properly torque my bowl and drain cap, yet every time I do an oil change I fight like hell to get the drain cap off. The moment you apply force to loosen it, the entire bowl turns, thus beginning a cycle of (tighten filter bowl, attempt to loosen drain cap, tighten filter bowl, attempt to loosen drain cap, etc)
@@Prosecute-fauci Interesting. I’ve only had to apply light force to wrench it off.
@@Prosecute-fauci same for me, have to pull housing with cap still on. Can’t get that cap loose no matter what.
@@glock23biker6 that’s the reason I installed an adapter to convert from cartridge to spin on. It’s not worth the hassle
I fell for it!! Bought the TS401BK at $273.00 with tax and installed it on my Corolla because I hated hearing the dry start metal grinding sound during start ups!! Only problem is IT DONT WORK and changed nothing except now it has a spin on oil filter!! After sitting 2 days and really bad atc4 days sitting,then starting up it sounds exactly the same as it did BEFORE installing the Baxter Performance TS401BK
It's not a big deal to remove the plug at the bottom of the filter, insert the draining device that comes with the new filter, which drains all of the oil from the canister and then remove the canister. I guess this is personal preference as it seems that when you unscrew the filter, it's going to drain a little oil.
I use that stupid thing every time I change my oil, not only does it never drain all the oil but leaves plenty in there to make a fantastic mess once the seal from the o-ring is broken but getting the stupid thing out is a pain in the ass once everything is coated with oil also every time I've done it thus far in the 3 years I've owned my truck one of the little plastic tabs that clips into the hole snaps off and I have to dig it out with a pic or something. It's a pain in the ass and completely unnecessary
@@joshbrown284 dammit! I just bought the new 4Runner, not looking forward to years of this! I agree, the plastic thing ain't so great.
@@V211-q4g I think it still has the 4.0 you should still have the regular spin on
@@joshbrown284 that 4.0 has the easiest oil filter to change
@@godofthunder6613 I don't have a 4.0
The reason why Toyota uses paper cartridge is paper filter is easier to do inspection when you removed it from filter housing, insp for metal or carbon residue and shavings, same as aircraft engine filters, VERY clever and nice! And you don't have to cut open the metal can to insp the filter!
Although it makes bit mess, but for maintenance and inspection wise, I would say paper cartridge style is very good!
I Installed 1 years ago on my 2011 highlander V6 part# TS -101-BK ….And my other 1 on my 4Runner 2021 TS-201-BK makes my oil changes way easier and faster less messy, I do my own oil services works perfectly fine for my vehicles.
Did you have to modify/ cut the skid plate on the 4Runner? I hear this system makes the filter too low
We have a RAV and a Tundra and the cartridge filter is ridiculous. My 1985 Suzuki used that tech.
Nice thorough explanation. I just did my 1st oil change on my 21 tacoma 4x4 sport.I drive very little being takes me almost a yr for a change.The oem version does suck.My previous 14 tacoma with the 4 cyldr had a spin on far easier.I will hold off on any change until my warranty is over.Cool tho
5,000 mi or 6 months whichever comes first. Do not wait till 1 year Jeremy!
The cannister is superior to a spin on filter, just buy an adapter to install/remove. Why downgrade?
It was easy screwing it in. But first I went lefty loosey to find the first start of the treads. Bingo. Then clockwise it went in so nice.
Thats what I did when replacing my spark plugs, inserted, went lefty loosie until I felt and heard the click, knowing I found the threads, no problem at all with cross threading.
As a Lexus technician I hate the housings. some come seized the plastic ones in general and if they are too tight it cracks. The metal housing threads are a tad longer hence the mess. Overall I hate these things I wish I could sell these lmao maybe I should
You can swap to the aluminum ones. You just have to remove the inner tube and put the one that has the right length. The one from the 2gr sienna works best.
VERY similar design for the stock canister assembly as lots of jet engines and for that reason I'm fine with the stock setup. I'd be curious to see what microns that wimpy filter is good for compared to the stock one. Good luck.
I urge you to actually do some REAL research and find out the microns in a Genuine Toyota filter. For the 2gr-fe engine, the filtration is not very good. Only upgrade you can do is go to a TRD filter (but my hunch is that the TRD filter starves my VVTI so... it is what it is.
...I didn't know this about aircraft oil filters and when you said that, it occurred to me why they'd want to use a cannister type, presumably to make it easier to do an oil/filter analysis. Which on aircraft I'm guessing, they would want to do that fairly frequently?
Then why doesn't my Toyota fly?
@@zerosn1nz most likely "operator error".
I'll stick with the oem.
Absolutely zero mess changing my lexus is350 using the cartridge. Thanks for the option.
Finally, a REMARKABLE PRODUCT MADE IN THE USA!!!!
Spin-On Oil Filters are by far, easier to remove/install and they ALL HAVE ANTI-DRAIN BACK VALVES!
If anti drain back was such a big deal Toyota would have addressed it or maybe they did on these new filters.
The filter is facing down. Where is it going to drain back to, Oil doesn’t float up when the car isn’t running.
Looks like a solution in search of a problem. Little square plug and oil filter supplied adapter are made to drain canister before removal. Never had any messes with mine.
I have been changing the oil in my Toyota Sequoia since it was new in 2011. It has always been a pain and I suspect as others have said that it is planned to make it difficult for DIYers. My OEM is plastic and I tried years ago to replace it with an aftermarket metal one but it always leaked, so I went back to the old one. I was surprised to see that this new setup has such a tiny filter cartridge. That cannot be good. Also the large "O" ring I noticed gets pretty hard from the engine heat, so you are probably going to find that you need to replace that from time to time. I am sticking to the OEM. Over 200k miles on mine and with the new car crap they are trying to sell us these days, I am going to try to get another 200-300k out of my big V8 polution machine.
Fram has a oil filter removal boot which catches the Oil so it does not run down your arm $8.00
Saves the mess and head aches NO BIG cost
I looked and could not find the Fram tool that you speak of. Please provide a part number or link and PLEASE make sure this will work with a CARTRIDGE style filter.
@@jotu2121 it might be called a oil udders oil catcher tool different brand
@@jotu2121 Amazon sells it under XL oil spill catcher
Thanks for the informative video. Having done about 20 oil changes for our Toyotas with cannisters over the past seven years I can atest that it is annoying and takes probably 3X as long to first drain the filter of oil and then unscrew the cartridge, remove and replace the cartridge, change two 0 rings and reinstall the canister. Getting one's hands a little oily always happens as well. However, I can live with that. What is more absurd to me is to purchase an adapter for $270 to alleviate that minor annoyance for vehicles that otherwise are pretty amazing.
Ok..It definately a quality adapter..But did everyone see the exposed spin on oil filter underneath..If you dont have a shield under there..Was it worth the 250.00+ repairs on filter contact with road conditions? Stick with the canister.....
The spin on filter looks really small after the adapter. I was wondering if the surface area for the filtering materiel is less because of the adapter.
Even though it may look smaller, it has 50% more filter media in it due to its girth.
Have you tried the "Fumoto" valve? I have one on my 2015 Rav4, my 2014 Triumph 675R, and my Ford E350 small motorhome.
Best thing ever.
I see why it's such a mess removing the cartridge. That 3/8" socket hole in the bottom is a cap that allows you to drain the filter before removing it. Do that, and you don't get near the mess. Nonetheless, I hate these cartridge filters too. I'll be looking into this. Thx
I found that that filter drain was just an exercise in ridiculousness. It drained very little oil from my filter so it literally left me with twice the mess. The mess of dealing with pre-draining the filter and then the mess of taking the filter cartridge off and haveing oil go everywhere anyways. It's so ridiculous that I'm getting mad about it (again) while I'm writing this.
That stupid cap wants to spin the cartridge off every single time
@@joshbrown284 That little cap takes about half the torque that the filter does. It's probably too tight. Mine did that last time, and I tightened the filter a little and it came right off.
@@jotu2121 I bought an Amsoil filter which came with a very nice screw in plastic drain tube instead of the POS snap in one that comes with the Toyota filters. I kept it and use it every time now. Key thing is to leave it in after you drain it and while you remove the main cartridge housing. More oil will come out that way
@@condor5635 different engines have the filter oriented differently and, thus, oil flows out of the port on the bottom of the filter housing more difficultly from one model to the next. If your cartridge works for you then great. As far as the 2008 Avalon is concerned I think it stinks!
This solved essentially nothing but thanks for the explanation though
What flow is that given? Sure you haven't restricted it?
You don’t need a backflow preventer if the filter is mounting vertically with the bowl down. Where’s it gonna go?!
That tiny new spin-on wix filter is now the lowest object protruding from the bottom of the front of the the car. It will surely be the first point of impact if you happen to bottom out, no thanks.
How often are you bottoming out your car? Lmao
@@Zach-ix3ob only takes once try driving over one of those speed bumps that are set too high that would do it
Stop speeding and change out your shocks an struts. 9 times out of 10 your shocks and struts are junk after only 20,000 miles....
You may be right, but don't call him surely!
@@michaelborrego2886 They are good for the life of the car, 300k miles +
For drain plug i replaced mine with a fumoto valve. That helps with the mess. I agree with the messiness of the oil filter and i cant remove the drain adapter without spinning the housing as well. Must have torqued too much. I would like to use this conversion kit but the price is a bit much (i have no doubt about the quality) and the lengthening of the filter close to the ground (2011 sienna). Another drawback is the metal of the "disposable " but "non biodegradable " filter. The pluses are less mess and you are not tied to Toyota filter.
It also gives you the option to use regular filters
You dont need a anti drain back valve because your oil filter is mounted vertically.
One of my mechanics told me the reason some car makers dropped the spin-ons was that cannisters degrade quicker in landfills than spin-ons, making them better for the environment.
thanks for the video jotu , but wait a minute the horizontal plastic one has a drain . it is the 1/2 inch on the bottom.
drains out most of the oil.
but i agree ,its a pain somewhere. just what were they thinking.
I have a 2020 Toyota Tacoma with the cartridge filter if I go to the Baxter spin on filter adaptor will that modification void my warranty additionally, how do I know what new filter to buy to replace the only cartridge type? Thanks for the informative video JR
Toyota will probably discourage this (along with nearly any other ideas you might have), but I think "a way around it" would be to just do what you want and, if any issues, replace with old cartridge before attempting to claim warranty service. That being said, do what you are comfortable with doing. To be VERY clear... I AM NOT A PROFESSIONAL MECHANIC.
I like my SeaDoo oil filter cartridge - unscrew long bolt, remove cap, remove filter, insert new filter, put back together with new o-rings, and you are ready to fill up with new oil (if you pumped it out already)
This may work on vehicles that have high clearance and can use regular spin-on filters. However, many Toyota and Lexus cars like the 2015 Lexus RX should not use this product. The Baxter adapter adds at least 1-inch of length to the filter. Baxter tells you to use a shorty Wix 51335 or a Napa 1335 filter that is only 2.5 high -- to avoid hanging down too close to the road. These filters are not designed for the Lexus 3.5L V6 engine. It's too small and doe not offer enough filter elements to meet the needs of the engine. Please research before you buy. If you have enough clearance to use a full-size filter after you install the adapter, I highly recommend the Baxter spin-on adapter. But do not use it for the Lexus RX or any vehicle that requires you to use a shorty small filter.
I was just thinking that. It's a total disaster to happen in case you hit something underneath. Then your new frustration will supersede by far with comparison of only dealing with cleaning and fitting the old OEM ones in the good old days.
A solution to a problem that most of us didnt know was an issue. I never have made a mess removing the oil filter or "battled" with it in any way, shape or form.
I installed this on my 2014 Avalon a few days ago. For me it wasn't necessarily for convenience, but you now have a filter installed with a backflow valve. My valve train is now silent at start up...even after a weekend of sitting. For me, the price is a good trade off. It's not a pre-oiler, but it is bound to help.
Is yours the v6?? Is the valve train still silent?? My variable valve timing components are noisy as heck on start up on my rav4 V6.
I thought on the cartridge filters engines the back flow valve was built in.
All Avalons were built with a V6.
@@eluniversodelecuador they also have a hybrid with the I4
Since the original filter housing already holds oil, there's no advantage to having a filter with a backflow valve.
You're still going to have the same oily mess when to remove your spin off filter because the oil isn't drained so all you really gained is a little convenience for added cost.
That is one tiny ass filter. I will stick with the factory filter.
The filter is that size only for the 08 Avalon (possibly other years of Avalons too). for other cars, filters will be bigger / filters will vary by engine bay space and engine size / specs along with your personal preferences.
@@yone2002 It isn't "funny" that, before you make FALSE ACCUSATIONS about someones integrity, you don't (AGAIN) check your facts. Search this comment page (make sure you scroll to bottom first and then use ctrl F) for a post by user FreddyXP and look in the replies. You will see that, not only did I leave yours posted, I informed you that I made the changes. Then again, this level of research (on your behalf) should not surprise me based on (generally speaking) the unresearched comments & OPINIONS in your other posts. To quote you "Haha"... you do almost ZERO research prior to posting your OPINIONS. To be totally, fair, if you want to "do the right thing", you should strongly consider deleting THIS false & accusatory remark yourself as 1) it is FALSE. 2) It only serves to challenge YOUR credibility (not mine). Also, an apology would be greatly appreciated. I am in a hurry now so I will read the other post you made later. I wish you only the best.
@@jotu2121 My apology. did not realize it was a different post. I deleted my comment here.
@@jotu2121 If I may add something here. Check with Baxter on oil filters as I had a problem of leaks until I found the correct one through the help of Baxter Performance.
@@randyschiffer3265 Yes, I have recommend this to every viewer.
I am happy with the stock Filter cartridge and is no more a mess that with a spin on filter.
Good 4 U
If you pull the plug and drain the filter as it is designed it isn’t as messy. This system has worked of Toyota for years and years, I see no reason to fix something that isn’t broken.
Exactly, it works for TOYOTA and NOT the consumer. It intimidates some consumers into getting dealer oil changes. If you like it, more power to you... but MANY OTHERS DO NOT!!!
Our 2010 Kluger has an allen headed screw in plug at the bottom off the filter; undo it, and in the filter kit is a push in plastic drain that goes in to allow filter oil drain.
Australian Kluger for reference
Great upgrade. Too bad its pricey over $200. Just did my wife's 2016 4 runner limited and wasn't so bad. I use black latex gloves to keep hands clean and torque the drain plug to 10ft-lbs and 25ft-lbs for the canister. The plug always comes off without spinning the whole canister at those torque values. Use a screw on plastic drain valve that comes with the new filter instead of the push in type, no mess at all. I used an amsoil filter and it came with the screw on valve instead of the push in to snap into place. The only time consuming part is taking off the skid plate and plastic shroud in front of it for easy access.
Did you have to modify the skid plate on the 4Runner? I was told that the filter will be too low if you don't cut a hole for it to extend a libit.
Have a 2014 and the Baxter unit but am hesitant until I know about skid plate.
Thanks!
The original one is perfect. Worked at Toyota for 10 years and i never had the thought that this was a problem.
$200 no way dude
Best $200.00 I ever spent. 3 times I had to take mine to a garage to get the filter off. I would spend it again to avoid the headaches I've went through.
Watch the torque spec on the cartridge. It is only 18 foot lbs. If you over torque it will be tough to remove and is prone to cracking. I agree $248 is a no way for me.
259.99 now....
@@fredcheesemonkey 😂😂 what a joke of price. There is no mess if you know what you are doing.
100% worth it IMO after doing 4 of these changes, I’ve already spent $100 on replacement plastic cartridges (they break) and special tools! I was about to order another aluminum replacement cartridge and matco removal tool, combined cost over $100 to replace the old worn out cartridge and tool. Found this video just in time, will save me plenty of money in the long term not to mention headaches.
I prefer the Toyota cartridge. It makes less mess and waste compared to a spin-on, when done per instructions. Can we see some footage of an oil filter change with this Baxter setup?
There is a reason Toyota didn't do that , wish they would let us know..
I think it has to do with the environment of having a paper filter than a metal one
My guess is that they were causing less of a disposal issue with this type of filter vs a traditional canister filter.
I just found your channel after ours posted a similar video. As a fellow RUclipsr, I have to say, your content is amazing. Nice work! I just subscribed. You're about to hit 1000 subscribers - and you deserve many more!!
The oil filter should be removed first, because it takes much less time to drain all of the oil out of the filter housing, than it does to drain all of the oil out from the oil pan! I always allow at least one to two hours to drain the oil from the drain plug! This way I get much more of the old oil out than I could, if I only let it drain for say, fifteen minutes!
I'm not sure if I agree with your removing the oil filter first technique. But (changing gears)... Since it takes so long for YOUR oil to fully drain out of the engine (2 hrs), it sounds like you're doing it with the engine & oil cold???? If so, you should at least know that the engine SHOULD be warmed up to operating temperature when changing the oil. For further confirmation just Google the subject. The point is to get all the impurities suspended and moving around in the oil and then dumping all the oil QUICKLY out while the impurities are still suspended. A side benefit is that the oil comes out much faster when it's hot.
@@jotu2121 No, I always drain the oil when it is hot! Even hot oil will continue dripping for more than one or two hours later! The longer you let it drain, the more old oil you will get out of the oil pan!
I always change the oil after I have driven the car for several miles, to make sure that the engine is up to operating temperature! With the oil filter taken off first, and then the oil draining from the pan next, I can take my time cleaning the filter housing, and installing the new filter, while the oil is still draining from the oil pan!
@@jotu2121 Why would you not agree with removing the oil filter first? Also, on many cars, if you open the drain plug first, the oil draining out, will be in the way of me trying to remove the oil filter! It makes much more sense to remove the oil filter first, for the reasons I have stated!
@@jotu2121 it makes absolutely no difference which you do first
I drain my filter with hose I got with a kit along with a metal wrench for canister.
No mess.
Sure wish I’d have found this while we owned a Toyota minivan. But since we’ll never make THAT mistake again, we’ll just fine this under, “Of f*kin’ well.”