Magnificent excisions, great route to diagnostics, this vedio psychologically packed with lesson that it’s not what you have it’s what how you operating with it . Thanks for sharing it
Literally had another garage drop a Trafic off to us with the same fault this week. After being on the course with you and Brandon in Feb I decided to use the pressure pulse to confirm that the pipe was not blocked (yep I know overkill, but had time and wanted to practice). Anyway great content as always Ryan and I will be in touch for a Pro Master Kit. Thanks Paul. 👍
can this problem blow out the main headlights? I drove this vehicle this weekend in the morning, sunny, daylight and all, and all went fine... but on our way back we stopped at a gas station exactly when day became night, and we started out from the petrol station back onto the highway and only then realized our headlights were both dead, fused out.
Yes of course. Originally the voltage being produced was 1.6v = (998mbar) approx, after the sensor was bypassed with a voltage of 0.7v the value decreased to 700mbar. This value is a theoretical value and is not based on voltage output. We disconnected this sensor completely and the run the vehicle to find this value would still increase and decrease accordingly with engine RPM. The reason it was reading 700mbar when the correct voltage was applied was because the engine ECU had already LEARNED the higher value of 1.6v and corresponded that to 998mbar. After a road test and monitoring the values, 0.7v equalled 990mbar. It was just a learned value. Does that make sense ?
Hi I have a similar problem with my Renault duster where is says turbine upstream pressure sensor voltage outside upper limit. Can you share a picture of the sensor as well as the location of it as I wasn’t able to clearly see that in the video
Sorry for the bad englis writting,y have today the same problem what yuo have de old sensor was 1,6 v but jou nou way?because the pijp pres air too the sensor en it doont go back because the pijp was stack zo the voltage statds too 1,6 tot that hij make the hose loos dan the praser go away en the sensor was teafing ahain 0,7.So always take the pijp lose en chek the voltage if hy gose back too 0,7v.
@David Brennan turns out it's on the back of the manifold, but there's two types for the same engine, mine was the manifold without the sensor .... but if yours is you need to get right under the van and look at the back of the engine and its top right of the manifold...my fault turned out to be a split dpf pipe
Why wouldn't you actually show how to disconnect the sensor and where it's placed. This video would then be useful to more than 0.1% of people watching 👎
I think most garages know how to disconnect a connector it's quite self explanatory. The location is practically impossible to get a good shot as advised on the video because of its location. Thanks
Magnificent excisions, great route to diagnostics, this vedio psychologically packed with lesson that it’s not what you have it’s what how you operating with it . Thanks for sharing it
Thanks, Soran I'm glad you enjoyed it!
Thanks for taking the time to watch it
Great thought process 👍 thanks for taking us through your diagnosis.
Literally had another garage drop a Trafic off to us with the same fault this week. After being on the course with you and Brandon in Feb I decided to use the pressure pulse to confirm that the pipe was not blocked (yep I know overkill, but had time and wanted to practice). Anyway great content as always Ryan and I will be in touch for a Pro Master Kit. Thanks Paul. 👍
Thanks, Paul, that's a great test method to determine a blockage! Look forward to hearing from you. Regards Ryan
THAT WAS A GREAT VIDEO SIR , PLEASE WE WOULD LOVE TO SEE MORE OF YOUR TESTING TECHNIQUES AND OUTSTANDING TEST EQUIPMENT THANK YOU FOR YOUR TIME !
Thanks for watching ❤
Thanks for the video and explanation
Great run through Ryan, a fault with a substituted value could really cause a headache!
Magyar nyelvu
Nice diag Ryan
You’re the man!!!
Nice vid
Excellent video. Could this have been diagnosed by purely using the multi meter. I.e. seeing that the voltage didn't change on the signal wire?
Top diagnosis have you got a part number for the faulty sensor or photo please?
Do I understand correctly that the voltage on the sensor should be 0.7 V with the key on and the engine off?
can this problem blow out the main headlights? I drove this vehicle this weekend in the morning, sunny, daylight and all, and all went fine... but on our way back we stopped at a gas station exactly when day became night, and we started out from the petrol station back onto the highway and only then realized our headlights were both dead, fused out.
Great vid
Can you explain why the ecu would want to see 700mbar koeo and not atmospheric pressure
Yes of course. Originally the voltage being produced was 1.6v = (998mbar) approx, after the sensor was bypassed with a voltage of 0.7v the value decreased to 700mbar. This value is a theoretical value and is not based on voltage output. We disconnected this sensor completely and the run the vehicle to find this value would still increase and decrease accordingly with engine RPM. The reason it was reading 700mbar when the correct voltage was applied was because the engine ECU had already LEARNED the higher value of 1.6v and corresponded that to 998mbar. After a road test and monitoring the values, 0.7v equalled 990mbar. It was just a learned value. Does that make sense ?
Elite Automotive Diagnostics yes thank you I didn’t realise it learned the new value.
@@carlhoggatt7311 yes, certainly one to look out for
Hi I have a similar problem with my Renault duster where is says turbine upstream pressure sensor voltage outside upper limit. Can you share a picture of the sensor as well as the location of it as I wasn’t able to clearly see that in the video
Hi were you able to get correct diagnosis and rectification for your problem?
Have this issue on a renault kangoo. Virtually impossible to replace sensor without removing engine. ,
MY FAULT DTC 11301C RENAULT MASTER 2.3 WHY?
The pipe to the sensor is plugged up.
This was a electrical fault, not a physical fault with the system. The internal voltage was too high with the ignition on and not running.
I should have said probably then;) 👍
Could also have been a problem in the sensor ground. What was the actual repair ? A new sensor?
@@martijn8337 yes, new sensor plugged in was reading 0.79v
Sorry for the bad englis writting,y have today the same problem what yuo have de old sensor was 1,6 v but jou nou way?because the pijp pres air too the sensor en it doont go back because the pijp was stack zo the voltage statds too 1,6 tot that hij make the hose loos dan the praser go away en the sensor was teafing ahain 0,7.So always take the pijp lose en chek the voltage if hy gose back too 0,7v.
What engine is this as it looks slightly different to my 2.3tdci
And I'm struggling to locate the sensor
@@farrahfazdid you find the sensor I'm also can't find mine, My van is 125bhp model.
@David Brennan turns out it's on the back of the manifold, but there's two types for the same engine, mine was the manifold without the sensor .... but if yours is you need to get right under the van and look at the back of the engine and its top right of the manifold...my fault turned out to be a split dpf pipe
Part Number Please
Why wouldn't you actually show how to disconnect the sensor and where it's placed. This video would then be useful to more than 0.1% of people watching 👎
I think most garages know how to disconnect a connector it's quite self explanatory. The location is practically impossible to get a good shot as advised on the video because of its location. Thanks