Quickly and Easily Remove Paint From Your Miniatures
HTML-код
- Опубликовано: 2 окт 2024
- For my Soulblight project, I've decided on a paint scheme for my Blood Knights, however I had painted one in a different color. Not wanting to lose details by priming over it all I began looking for ways to remove paints from my Miniatures, although the internet seems kind of divided on what is the best way. After doing a little research I decided to try Smart Strip, a paint stripper I ordered off of Amazon. I've tried using IPA in the past and I just can't stand the smell, plus it's toxic and volatile nature scares me.
While you should still wear gloves and use eye protection when using Smart Strip, it was so much easier and safer to use, plus it worked incredibly fast.
#shorts #warhammer #warhammer40k #warhammerpainting #warhammer4000 #wh40k #gamesworkshop #warhammerpainting
"Ever wanted to undo an already COMPLEATLY BADASS PAINTJOB?"
I thougth the Same xD
First off, thank you!
2nd, I have 4 more unpainted blood knights. After I finished other units in my Soulblight army, I realized I wanted a different paint scheme. In order to keep coherency between the 2, I did the deed!!
@@MOBhammer40k DEDICATION !
I use Simply Green, an amazing product that strips quickly and is environmentally friendly, and I can use it to clean my painting area as well
How long do you let the miniatures sit in it? I’ve tried it before but I just couldn’t get the results I wanted :/
I usually let my minis sit in sume green for a few days and then go at them with a tooth brush. Leave them a week or so as you work on other products and they come out great. If you use GW primers, it will leave a bit of a matte finish on them.
Personally tried both Simple Green and LA's Totally Awesome, I got better results with LA's Totally Awesome with it sitting in some tuba wear about 3-4 days.
I got some stuff second hand, literally soaked in sinple green for a year with occasional scrubbing and barely dented what the previous owner slapped on.
@@rafusekevindoes it work on plastic ?
LA's Totally Awesome. It's found at a local Dollar Store, it's a liquid concentrate so it flows into crevices and dissolves paint without harming the material.
I’ve tried it on numerous occasions and it’s never worked for me. IPA has been the most consistently reliable method for me but it’s still not the best.
@@hansstrudel9614 I've only found that LA has issues getting rattle can base coats off depending on the brand but otherwise can soak things in it for weeks if necessary.
@@Reapray yeah I’ve taken second hand models, left them to soak in it for weeks and best case *maybe* half of the base coat comes off. Forget getting it down to bare plastic I’d be happy if I got it cleanly down to the primer
I've been using totally awesome for years. Works like a charm
Works every time for me.
In Poland we have a company named Wamod and they make the single best acrylic paint remover. Pour into a glass jar, throw in your mini(s), seal shut for a day or two, take out, clean with toothbrush, bang. :D
W końcu ktoś wspomina produkt nie z USA o(*°▽°*)o Naprawdę działa? Dostałam wcześniej tylko podpowiedzi o użyciu Kreta i to była masakra (⊙_⊙;)
@@milenafighter8120 płyn hamulcowy DOT-4 też świetnie robi robotę, nie niszczy plastików i jest łatwiej dostępny (każda stacja benzynowa).
@@TomaszStachewicz to prawda, płyn hamulcowy dot4 robi robotę , rozpuszcza farbe a nie niszczy plastikowej figurki
O wiele lepszy i tańszy jest zwykły alkohol izopropylowy. W cenie buteleczki Wamodu, która ma 250ml, dostaniesz 1l alkoholu. Wystarczy 5-10min kąpieli i farba schodzi bez najmniejszego problemu
@@Nipponson86 Właśnie z alko ostatnio były problemy i mieszanka Vallejo + Scale75 leżała dobrze ponad godzinę w zanurzeniu. Po kolejnej prawie godzinie szczotkowania się poddałem i wróciłem do wamodu.
After 2 applications of biostrip, put the model in a sonic bath with a little soapy water run it about 5 mins, change the water and repeat several times. It really gets deep into the more hard to reach areas.
This is great. I’ll look into one!
Can confirm this works really well. I stripped and redid a bunch of models using a sonic cleaner and isoprophyl alcohol and it worked really well. This looks like it works even better so I think I'll give it a shot next time I want to strip a model.
AK Paint Stripper is amazing, too. And if you run it through a coffee filter, you can use it again and again.
AK Products are incredible.
Yeah, this is the correct answer to the age-old question of "What's best to strip paint from models?"
You literally apply AK paint stripper and the paint starts coming off almost instantly. Just repeat the process, and as you advised, filter it afterwards, and a bottle will last longer.
Drain cleaner (anti clog) solutions works really good and fast. Usually I use these for this purpose.
Brake cleaner fluids works also well.
Drain cleaner is pretty harsh though man... The reaction can create a lot of heat too. I'd be pretty careful with that stuff.
LAs totally awesome, and 5 minutes in a sonic cleaner. Comes out looking brand new.
Do you use a sonic cleaner solution, or just soapy water?
@benjaminhayward5921 Straight cleaner. Either LA's, or Simple Green. Either one takes the paint off easy. The simple green sometimes needs a toothbrush for motivation, but not much.
I use detol and just let it sit for a day or 2, it's really skin friendly and is cheap + easily available unlike a lot of options I've been told about
Thanks for the tip!
I loathe using detol, anytime I used it the paint would gunk horribly and i had to switch it to isopropyl
Here in the UK the cheapest place I found for buying BioStrip 20 (1L tub), including delivery, was direct from Fuze (the makers)
This stuff (I use Biostrip) is magic. I fucked up undercoating my Votann Hearthkyn so needed to remove it and it was so easy to use.
ive been using good old break oil for ages now, soak it over might glove and gogle up scrub it rinse it done
I used breake fluid (dot 4) I it worked pretty well.
"Have you ever wanted to undo a paint job?"
One that looks better than anything I've ever painted... no I'm good! 😭 🤣
I know - I liked it too. But I swear I have bigger plans for it!
All paint yields to LA's Totally Awesome, isopropyl, Simple Green, or if the mini is metal, acetone. Different paint brands react differently to each solvent and if one doesn't work, I recommend another.
Isopropic Alchahol was best for me, still think thats the GOAT
Ive always used oderless mineral spirits. Dont leave your softer molds in for too long or they get melty.😅
I do 91%isopropyl alcohol. 10 minute soak and all the paint comes off. Ive done it well over 30 times when i repainted my ultramarines as dark angels and it never harmed my models but got them completely cleaned off. Ive never had any issues with it.
But it already looks so cool 🥹
It just does the EXACT same thing in the EXACT same time as Isopropyl 99.99% alcohol
AK paint stripper is hands down the best. Doesn't require any long soaking time.
Literally apply it, wait 30 seconds then scrub. Repeat the process until completely clean.
99% IPA. Dump model into a bowl of it, about an hour or so later, toothbrush loosens paint and off it comes. Beauty of it is, apart from some discolouration and particulates, the alcohol is unaffected and poured back on the bottle, is still completely usable for further paint stripping.
I was wondering if it was reusable
Totally. I just pour it back into the bottle slowly so little in the way of particulates get through. I suppose a coffee filter would do it well.
I wholeheartedly agree, not really sure what the issues are that people have with IPA. Plus it is easily evaporates so no worries about crevices holding excess moisture. And it works on plain models as well to clean off any mold release or industrial chemicals that would affect priming.
I tried other methods but IPA proved best for me. It’s cheap too so that’s a plus! I remember people on forums saying it damaged models, caused glue to come apart and other horrors. I e used it pretty regularly over the last 3-4 years with not one sign of any damage, except to the paint!
Same here, i dunno what he meant in the video when he said that it was "too difficult to handle" when you can just leave a mini in a jar for a week lmao
I just throw it my minis either into ISO 99% give em a like shake with the ole sonic bath or put them to sit in a tub of degreaser if I dont mind waiting. Usually does the job and hasnt hurt anything yet.
I've done some pretty extensive cleaning using LAs totally awesome on SW Legion minis and had a lot of success
Where was this 20 years ago??? I've been out of the mini painting game for so long
99% (precisely) alcohol has always been good for me.
Unfortunately that's not just discoloration... Stripping agents and solvents can actually weaken certain plastics and those discolored areas are a result of damage to the plastic. In this case it's thick enough that its probably just surface damage and it should be alright and easy to hide or repair, but for really thin pieces it can make some plastics very brittle, especially styrenes and certain resins like PLA and the stuff used to create cast components (I forget what it's called but it's used for a lot of resin accessory kits and models). The material will seem softer and more malleable at first and the surface can even be kinda gooey because the plastic has begun to break down, but once it totally dries it will be all splotchy and discolored like that and become quite brittle. Again the thicker items are usually okay and you kinda just have to avoid touching them too much at first so they don't get any fingerprints, indentations, or unwanted textures on the surface, but the the really fine/thin components will become very fragile due to the weakening of the material.
I'm not too familiar with this particular product, but I am familiar with the discolored patches on models and parts after exposing them to various solvents/stripping compounds and why it happens.
Nail polish remover was working well enough for me.
Super clean aka purple power is my go to. Let soak for a day or so and most of the paint will come right off. Maybe a little scrub with a toothbrush
Same! The first time I used it I didn't realize you were supposed to dilute it, I also left them in it for multiple days, so it etched some of my old 1993 GW minis, but that just meant that spray primer adhered even better.
This brought me some memories of using white spirit on my metallic minies
Why not use paint thinner? Genuinely curious, will it damage the plastic?
The fumes can be a bit intense and toxic if you don’t have proper ventilation. Plus you do have to be careful that whatever you get can be used with plastics.
You can buy an ultrasonic cleaner for very little money.
I did that, did nothing.
Hmmm, use what works for you, if this works for you, keep using this, but personally I get the exact same results with isopropyl alcohol.
And, for my UK folks, since isopropyl isn't as readily available via box store retail outlets, another very safe alternative is brown dettol. It's... mostly because it's some pine scented nonsense mixed with isopropyl alcohol, and it will leave your miniatures smelling a bit fresh, but it does work in a pinch. Less effective than pure alcohol but since the only active ingredient is alcohol, it won't damage your minis at all, and is also entirely safe to use. But in all cases, for the love of God wear some gloves, the paint does *not* come out of skin as easily as it comes off your minis.
Non acetone nail polish remover (Ethyl Acetate) works quick. It never ever demaged my minis, and evapurates 100% in just minutes.
Non Acetone is definitely key.
Ipa would do that in one go.
Yellow Dasty is better. Nothing is better.
Never heard of that! I’ll have to check it out :)
Las Awesome for me is #1
Looks quite bad product, with difficulties to remove the paint.
After many tests (US bath, alcohol, glanzer...), Tried the GSW paint remover, works perfectly and is re-useable
I still think isopropanol is the easiest way. Put the mini in over night -> done.
My favorite method is the classic....tupperwear filled with Simple Green....toss a mini in.....forget it in there for 7 months
Nitromorse!!
Makes your fingernails soft.
Nasty stuff.
Works
Testors ELO also works similarly well. Not sure which is cheaper or safer though
Someone, please tell me what this song is. I love it
Another fast paint remover I've found is degreaser, it breaks down glues and oils, so it removes paint, you only need to put your model in for 30 minutes at most or it'll begin destroying your model if its made from plastic or resin, metal models I've left in for weeks, they come out very shiny.
well most of my miniatures are tin.. so i just use paint thinner.. Though I have a sizable empire army where half are the old plastic models, and they definitely need a repaint.. So might give this a try
I've had a similar discolouring effect using ISO.
I've tried it all. Sometimes it just don't come off. GW spray primers jack your models up
If you have metal miniatures, the best was petrol. 2-5 minutes and the paint fell off, no scrubbing. Off course there was a MASSIVE risk of fire and inhalation but hey you have to pay for your art.
Wait y’all are having problems with isopropyl alcohol? How?
Thank for covering the rumor claims NSP! Your livestreams are really fun to listen to!🙌🏽💕
Some of these rumors really make me raise my eyebrows. At this point for me, having the FF13 Trilogy on modern hardware is all I need, whatever extra things/features that gets added is a very welcome addition!😂❤🤩🙌🏽
To those who have a low IQ like myself, ANY LEVELS OF ACETONE WILL DESTROY THE MINI.
I used brake cleaner and the model retained I would say 99% of it's details.. which totally surprised me.
Me: sees video thumbnail
Me: remembers That certain jar video
This stuff does work amazing…. BUT FYI DONT USE THIS ON RESIN MODELS!!! I had put a resin Astorath in for an afternoon to soak and when I checked back on him he was completely dissolved 😅
Theres a priduct called "LA's Totally Awesome Cleaner" that is safenon metal and plastic and takes the paint right off. You want the yellow original version of the product.
Just use LA’s Totally Awesome from the dollar store and soak minis in it for as long as they need. Significantly cheaper. Doesn’t weather/discolor the plastic.
That paint job was good, though.
Yes… it was good. Which was really the thing I had to really ponder if I wanted to start over. Originally I got the blood knights to play Warcry, but now that I’m moving towards AOS and Spearhead, I’m realizing that that original paint scheme doesn’t fit with the rest of the army. So…. Tough decisions were made :(
Just use LA's Totally awesome. It's at the dollar store, is harmless, and is the best stripper on the market. Everything else is stupid.
Testors decal and paint remover is by far far far far the best thing ive ever used, and ive used everything under the hardware sun. 10 minutes of a dunk a little brushing and its back to bare. Even hard gunky crap spray primer will breeze away.
I've wanted to get into the tabletop Warhammer for years. But I'm terrible at drawing/painting, and I already have a SNES collecting hobby. So I just stick with reading the books. It's amazing the detail you all can get on the models though.
Undo a paint job???
Buddy, I can hardly bring myself to paint it in the first place!
I love modeling and kitbashing, but for whatever reason *despise* painting! So once that paint is down, I ain't redoing it!
I used methylated spirits it's purple and lll just throw the model in for an hour or two sometimes just a dunk and a scratch with a toothbrush and your good its easier than that looked
I figured out that DOT3 or DOT4 Brake Fluid works too. But I found out the hard way.
atm I am using the Green Stuff World Paint Remover, works and not had any problems.
Soft jazz and low lighting usually works
Or just use methylated spirit. It is very cheap and the paint will come off without any scrubbing in about 30 seconds.
Dettol is amazing, just have to leave it in for 24 hours.
Only use the brown Dettol and don't use cheap brands even if they look the same they won't work.
Also get most of the paint off with a paper towel or two before getting water and your toothbrush involved.
Brown Dettol. cheaper and less harmful. and you then have some disinfectant in the house.
91% isopropyl is the best. Nothing out there compares to it. Simple Green is 97% water, don't use that.
I've stripped my minis (Blood Knights too, actually) with Dettol. I've left minis in for days (due to other things taking priority) and the paint has come off without issue, and no harm to the minis.
Why even strip models in the first place? If you paint with properly thin layers, you need hundreds of layers of paint to actually clog detail.
Yes, I've seen MWM video, but I also know that 100 layers of any paint does not fucking look like that if it was thinned *properly* because I routinely put on like 30 layers of paint for skin, and lose none of the skin texture.
Just look at Vince Venturella's Larry the ogre. That guy has seen hundreds of laysrs of paint and dozens of layers of PRIMER and still looks like a regular ogre model. He always mentions how he never strips it.
To the people thinking of using simple green. I got bestvresults when I put the SG in a tub with a lid then submurge modles, then seal it and put it someplace warm. A warm lamp or the sun in summer sould be enough. Rhe heat activates the SG and makes it alot more effective.
Ps I'm to lazy to fix typo/spelling mistakes.
Never found a better all rounder than Dettol (uk). Plastic, metal, even used it on finecast. Cheap and you can pick from a couple of hours soak to a couple of weeks depending how much paint you want/need stripped off
simple green is my go to, i've bought a 2 gallon bottle for 20 bucks and its been enough to strip and clean over 8000+ points of my army including super heavies from forgeworld, just toss it in a bucket for a day (leave it in the night before, go to work and when you come back its all good) its safe to handle without gloves- don't drink it though, and it smells nice lol
Says "Earth friendly" but irritates the skin. Why would even put that lie on *paint stripper* ?
Jesus just use oven cleaner spray, it works in seconds/minutes and doesn't damage the plastic.
Coca-Cola and monster-energy-drink works fine
....I feel like this is a trap.
Using a ultrasonic cleaner amd a liquid paint remover wouldn't be best? I really don't know, but it seems reasonable
ISO does the exact same thing and you don't necessarily need PPE
How tf can you not "handle" Isopropyl? It's literally the easiest.
People keep telling me LA Totally Awesome. I finally got some and am ready to try it out, I just don't know if I need to dilute it or by how much, and whether it will play nice with several different kinds of plastics and resins, in addition to my metals. Trial amd error would probably be an unfortunate way to find out as some of these minis are irreplaceable. Going to do a little more research. This looks to do as good a job as your method here, but with a longer soaking time and the ability to strip large numbers of minis at the same time. This is ideal, because I also had some very expensive stuff that worked passably most of the time (could he better), but I was spending 20 minutes or more per miniature, and it DID weaken plastic (manufacturer recommended don't use the process more than twice). Also, large pieces like tanks or that cavalry model you have there would have been difficult to impossible.
Have you tried an industrial pressure washer with aggregate?
I want to know what figure that is, it looks cool
Blood knight from the Soulblight Gravelords Army!
I dont know how widely available it is outside of Germany, but for me Sterilium, a kind of hand sanitizer works really great
Simply green works best and its very cheap
Can confirm, I'm in the UK and biostrip is the way to go. I saved so much money buying poorly painted riders of rohan on ebay and now I have 30 standing proudly in my pile of shame.
Simple Green is also my go to. However, if the model is exclusively metal, and you have access to it... acitone. I put a model in a jam jar for canning, cover it in acitone, and put on a lid. It will remove everything. If the model has plastic or resin parts, don't do this - it will melt to slag.
Paint remover from Green Stuff IS wonderful ....
I'm a Purple Power kinda guy. Just submerge the minis in it and let it sit for 24hrs. After that use a soft bristle brush to scrub the paint off the mini. Also once the paint is off i have a small bowl with warm slightly soapy water to clean any left over Purple Power residue.
I actually bought a cheapo battery operated electric toothbrush and it works wonders. A little tip for all of yall is when you're not using the electric toothbrush is to take out the battery. If there's several months or longer between the times you stip models you dont want the battery sitting in the device.
Lol, need as much toothbrush work as isopropyl alcohol. (simplygreen is a soap not a solvant) plz stop trying to reinvent the wheel, alcohol for the win
Man you could have tried it on a mini salvaged from ebay. The one you stripped was wY better than anything I've ever painted 😭
plastic safe acetone in a Ziplock with your miniature. soak then shake.
the mini was FINEEEE!
But it doesn’t fit the scheme of the rest of my army/blood knights 😭
Try using lye or hair dresser developer ( peroxide emulsion) I think that product is lye and not peroxide.
you only need alcohol... 24 to 48h submerged and then use a toothbrush, on certain hard surfaces you may need to repeat the process a second time, this is old as fuck and damages 0 the plastic.
Ohhh wait that’s actually really good, been wanting to repaint some of my old space marine miniatures appreciate the short
Plastic manufacturer here, not that it matters at all, but discolored plastics are degraded plastics.
It's probably not an issue with miniatures at all, but that stuff definitely leached something from the surface of the plastic.
Beats back in the day when brake fluid was our best option.
In the UK just simple clean spirit, not white spirit have used for years also it softens old glue a treat don't know what the clean spirit is called in the states, it may well be clean spirit
Fun fact gloves can melt i know but my hand got burnt and my eczema started flared up.
Brake fluid has never failed me, just gotta leave it soaking for awhile, and re-prime after it’s dry