Sump Gasket Replacement - 15hp Briggs & Stratton
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- Опубликовано: 31 окт 2017
- Model: 28N707
Code: 9408174A
In today's video, we'll be disassembling a 15hp Briggs & Stratton vertical shaft engine & replacing the sump gasket & crankshaft oil seal!
Sump Gasket Part Numer: 692226
Oil Seal Part Number: 291675S
This engine came off a Craftsman Riding Lawn mower, we had to remove it because it was leaking oil, due to a bad/non-sealing gasket.
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Fantastic tutorial video. I only needed to replace my lower oil seal and was able to do it on the lawn tractor. Once I did a cleanup, pushed the tractor onto some car ramps and got the old one out with a little patience. Used a 1-1/4" pvc coupling to tap it flush. Then gently tapped the rest of the way with a 1/4" hex drive about 3/32". Thanks again for this great video.
Man, you gave some great info on the governor and now know where to position that pin before installing the bottom..thx..
Great video with an excellent explanation of the internal workings of the engine. Also nice to see the importance you put on the governor gear and location prior to final fit of the bottom pan. Just that point alone will save your Eliminators serious money for replacement of further parts once this gear gets damaged.
This is a good video I just wish he would have shown how to disconnect the deck. A friend just dropped one of these mowers off 4 free to me he said here you're an expert on this shit... Yeah right okay that's why I am fuddling to get the deck off it!!! Anyway I have the exact same oil leak just power washed the machine.. So a well appreciated video Mower Performer... I like the video.. Well done well done...
I ingraver the lip all the way around sump to help keep gasket in place and use KW sealant
Works great for 9 years and no come back yet
Great tutorial! You are very good at explaining everything, Im gonna tear into my 16hp opposed twin and do this now!
Excellent photography and description. I have a 12.5hp Briggs which has the same problem. Will tackle as soon as the gasket and seal arrives from Amazon. Keep up the good work.
did you unbolt in any certain order? and did you rebolt in any certain order?
Great video Eliminator
Iam confident now i can do my 8hp Briggs. Thanks
Great detail all around. Thank you.
Great tutorial. Thanks Eliminator!
Always informational! Thanks for the videos man!
Thanks, Great tips and step by step informative. Use a LITTLE LP gas on the Ali sump and the seal will release a little easier and allows the new seal to be install while warm without damage.
Great video. Very handy for my Briggs Stratton 28N707 with an oil leak or two. Thanks!
Excellent video! Very detailed and informative! I’m ready to do my B&S 14.5 hp 287707 engine today. Thanks so much!
Great video. Very informative!!
Sou do Brasil, estava procurando um vídeo sobre este motor, me ajudou muito !
grato pela ajuda !
Good Video! You can also use a rubber hammer and just tap around the pan to get it to come loose too. Especially if you can't get a scraper to easily fit in between the block and pan.
People who use screwdrivers and try to get in there to pry it apart often end up damaging the edges of the aluminum block/pan or even mess up the machined surfaces where the gasket fits, since there are no "pry points" cast into these engines.
Those fiber disks are great for gasket cleaning. For people that don't have a grider and/or air compressor, they also make similar disks like that for a dremel tool, you can find them on amazon. And if nothing else, the "dark red" scotchbrite pad and elbow grease will work too, just takes longer. You might also use some spray cleaner with that to help make it easier/quicker. Just don't get it inside the case unless you are disassembling everything for a rebuild.
I am currently rebuilding a Briggs 15.5hp Vanguard OHV 28Q777 off of a 20 year old Dixon Zero Turn, which basically looks identical to the engine you are working on in this video. Started out just replacing the crankshaft seal, but the more I looked at the engine _(removing cover and ect)_ the worse it got... smh
Ended up having a stuck ring, lots of carbon build up in head and on top piston, in the ring grooves, and a lot of sludge in the engine, as well as several bad seals. Got it all torn down, still cleaning up, going to order parts tomorrow.
Good job young man🤔👍
Awesome video
Yes. The gasket on mine was a pain-in-the-ass to remove.
Thanks for the spec on torque for those bolts. I didn't know how much to torque mine to, I watched this video. The engiine I have here is a 16hp version of yours. Otherwise everything else looks the same. The gasket looks identical as well.
VERY NICE JOB. TY
Thanks for watching!
NICE VIDEO. TY
Thanks for watching!
Harbor Freight sells a bearing & seal driver set that worked fine for mine.
I like the blue gell lock tight better than liquid
Just use a solvent to remove the gasket leftover. It may take longer, but using any kind of a wheel is risky.
You are correct, but I use the blue fabric discs. I know it can be risky but I've never had any issues. I would not use the brown fabric discs, they are super abrasive. Now if this was a cylinder head on a race motor, I wouldn't be using this method lol
@@EliminatorPerformance your video was really good. The reason I was viewing it was because I was noticing dead grass dots in my lawn….ie, a bad seal. Unfortunately, when I pulled the sump side off I noticed a lot of wear on the bearing…and to be expected after I think 20 years of service. So, I had to buy a new sump side otherwise just replacing the seal wouldn’t really fix the seal. I am really surprised the seal spring isn’t a bit stronger…to be tighter to the crank. Anyway, it’s been 20 years since I needed to dive into a 4 cycle engine so thanks for the video.
Hello Eliminator,
Thank you very much for this video - it was very helpful as I have this same exact engine. My only comment was that you stated the torque spec to be 140 in-lb but the B&S manual shows a sump bolt torque spec of 220 in-lb for bolts with the integral washer head (140 in-lb for bolts with a separate lock washer). I also confirmed this at the B&S website.
Thanks
Paul (in MA)
Good info, thanks for watching! Probably good I used thread locker, still no issue with this engine though.
I'm no professional mechanic but, despite the manufacturer saying that the torque is more, you have to be careful with tightening too much since the body of the engine is aluminum. The bolts can easily strip the inside threads out, which leads to tapping new threads and having to get bigger bolts. On the other hand, not enough torque leads to it leaking all over again. But nice heads up noticing what the manufacturer suggests.
I torqued mine to 210 in-lbs (I do have the integral washer).. and I STRIPPED THE THREADS in 1 hole. In hindsight this seems like way too much torque for aluminum. I'll be torqueing to 140 next time. Tread with caution here.
I set at 180
@@philliphall5198 That seems like a good mid-ground, any issues ? did you have to go back and tighten them again>?
Its good to get a Oil dipstick O ring to as well..
Don Edmondson Great point, I inspected that and the leak wasn't coming from there so we never replaced it!
Lot of good info. If I can make a suggestion, more hands-on. I know it lengthens the video, but actually seeing something being done is better than just hearing about it. Like reading a book then trying it out. For example. driving the seal in place. Keep up the good work. Thanks
That was a fantastic video!!! I need to do this exact job. Damn that was a great video!! Im subbing! 👍🍺
Thank you!
Hi, been following your excellent video very closely. I was able to remove sump and am currently in the process of carefully removing stuck gasket material from the surfaces.
During a break I looked at my stack pulley. It does not appear to have a protrusion like yours built it. There are two dents on the outside which I assume could be used for a wrench to hold the shaft while trying to loosen the bolt. I looked on the parts list for my B&S 14.5 hp 287707 engine and it looks like the timing key is a woodruff key - 1/2 moon. For the life of me I cannot find the key anywhere. Could it be possible that the key was crushed and the mower still ran acceptable? I’m going to the mower repair shop tomorrow and will bring the stack pulley and photos of the engine shaft with the key groove visible. Wish I could attach photos! Keep you posted! Thanks!
Stens has good parts but a little high price but I think it’s worth it, gaskets are great and correct thickness
Where can I buy the inside partas the gasket?
Great info. I’m looking at a white riding mower with BS 15hp industrial. Would appreciate you thoughts on that engine.
Want to use it to pull logs too.
Briggs and Stratton and Tecumseh are quality, stay away from Kohler, good luck and thanks for watching!
how did you get the crsp out of the motor/?
Good video. My gasket kit has 5 sump gaskets 2 look like they're of paper, WHY
Measure them with a vernier caliper
I recomend washing out with kerosene prior to reassembly.
So if Im just changing the crank oil seal I dont need to take pan off?? Thanks nice vid.
Technically no, but you'll need some type of tube to press it down over the crankshaft
There are 2 of those pins on the 16 hp version that I'm putting back together.
Can't believe this wood Chuck left the starter on
You have a locating pin missing. There are usually 2.
Hey man, great video, perfectly explained,i had a couple of questions,could you point me to a repair/assembly manual number for Briggs?
i have a 2006 mower and a 1995 tiller plus a 500 e series mower thats like 2 years old, i was wondering if there was a manual that would cover most of these motors, the 500 and the 06 mower motors are very similar and the tiller is a 5 horse engine, i found a whole bunch on eBay but im not sure which one to get and i wasn't sure if maybe you had one you could recommend? thank you for your time!!
Also on the gasket issue how do you determine the endplay and what gasket you need? the 500 needs a new sump gasket and its a newer mower so im guessing just a stock gasket? been working on cars since i was a kid but here lately ive been getting into many small little engines so trying to learns as as much as i can.
For the manual, just type in Google what your engine is and put service manual after, usually a PDF file will come up you can download.
As for measuring end play, you need a dial indicator, and you measure the amount the crankshaft goes up and down. Up to about 0.025" is acceptable and you use thrust washers (the washer on the crankshaft) to set this. But remember that using a thicker thrust washer will change the thickness of gasket required. Most engines won't need adjustment unless they're really old or have many many hours on them.
And thanks for watching!
@@EliminatorPerformance Thank you much man,yeah this engine is relatively new,ill just get a standard gasket, you deserve more viewers man,i subscribed, you have a really good way of explaining things and the camera is super clear, thank you.
@@dntlss thank you!
Should a permetex gasket sealer be used on at least one side of the gasket. I would think on the sump side, just to hold the gasket in place and make clean up easier if it had to removed and scraped off again in the future. I am ready to replace the sump gasket on a tecumseh ohv 12 engine and I was amazed how thin and brittle the old gasket was.
You could use some to hold it in place, but you have to keep in mind sump gaskets come in different thicknesses.
The thicker it is, the more crankshaft end play you'll have.
The thinner, the less crankshaft end play you'll have.
"End play" is the amount of distance the crankshaft moves up and down, when the engine is fully assembled.
So by adding permatex gasket maker you could actually be increasing crankshaft end play.
Normally gaskets come in sizes like 0.005" 0.009" 0.015" and you can adjust end play accordingly.
Just thought I would add, if you use automotive tube gasket maker/sealer, you only want to use a very thin coating, as it doesn't take much. Because you have to be very careful not to get any 'overflow' on the inside of the crankcase when you bolt the parts together. As pieces can later break off on the inside of the engine, and clog up your oil pump and screens, or get into gears, governor, ect.
If you just want to hold a gasket in place, its better to use a Hi-Tack gasket sealer spray. It will make the gasket tacky to hold it in place while you assemble. Plus it will always remain tacky and help maintain a good seal. A lot of mower shops use this. Loctite used to make a good one, but not sure if they still sell it.
And as Eliminator Performance pointed out the issue with paste gasket maker/sealer adding to much thickness to the gasket, by only using Hi-Tack gasket spray sealer, it won't add to the thickness of the gasket. So you won't have clearance and end play issues.
@@Yhrim70 I did the job nearly 2 years ago and the permatex helped in reassembly. There was no thickness to it, and it was just like a tacky glue. The machine has been running great without that annoying oil stain appearing on the floor.
@@lorettacaputo6997 didn't say it wouldn't work. And yes, once you put the parts together and bolt them down it will always be thin between the parts, the problem is if there is to much. As you have to be careful or the "overflow" will be squeezed out *inside* the case. Saw car engines that were ruined because someone wasn't careful, and they added to much permatex (or whatever brand of gasket maker) to the part. One engine someone had removed the oil pan and just used gasket maker to replace the gasket, which can be done if done correctly. They put to much on and the extra squeezed out on the inside of the oil pan. Sometime later (may have been several years) pieces of gasket maker broke off and clogged up a oil passage and the engine was starved for oil. Required a needless engine rebuild.
How many hours could this take if every thing goes to plan ?
3
quick question, while doing this repair, i went to change the oil seal
on the crank shaft in the sump cover and noticed there was a sort of
O-ring in there also, it seems to be a sort of a "spring" like ring not
made of rubber. one was not included with the new seal P/N 690589 (#943
on the parts drawings on line) is this thing part of the original seal
that came off or is it not needed? i dint see it anywhere listed on any
of the drawings. do you know the part im talking about? BTW i did this
fix in about an hour and this video was amazingly helpful. thanks!
Hard to say, usually just the seal is fine. Sorry I can't be of more help!
Well looking at the new seal again it does have the same spring thing I. It so I’m gonna day that’s it and just got install the new seal lol thanks!
@@hdrjunkie yep, that was what I was going to say :-) Most shaft seals have a "spring" that goes all the way around on the back side of the seal.
@@Yhrim70 yeah that was it, everything went back together without issue and the tractor is still running fine. Thanks.
How did you clean sludge out? Thanks.
Just wiped it out with shop towels
Mineral spirits works great for me.
Where do I buy Twist Lock absive pad
amazon and most auto part stores.
You forgot the governor seal and dipstic o ring if itsf
Got one... didn't mention it.
Yes good point, those weren't leaking so it wasn't repaired! Thanks for watching!
@@EliminatorPerformance oh your video is really good. Not critical just an observation.
I'm currently replacing 2 heads on a 24 vtwin intek.. pulled sump pan to retrieve pushrod. Got lucky no damage inside. I just ordered the whole engine gasket kit. If u got it apart what the heck. Heads overheating due to rocker covers leaked and coated fins... bummer.
Customer will definitely pull shroud and blow out engine from now on.. again great vid
And I like those disks. I been using pb blaster and scotchbright
Missing the timing set on the shafts. Never governor will be corectly on the governor arm after installing sump engine. The inside governor arm must be chenged in desing.
140 inch pounds is 11.6 foot pounds on my torque wrench. Is that right ?
Yes
@@EliminatorPerformance thanks brother . I appreciate it
Should have replaced Governor seal just in case it starts leaking
why not just use a block of wood to use as a spacer when turning engine over....then wont have to remove dip stick.
Would a 20 year old John Deere Lt33 be worth getting this done on? Think I'd rather pay someone.
Merry Merry Christmas and yes. Look at prices of new mower and the trans are junk
Even a new engine is great also
That’s some nastyyyyyyy sludge.
it would have been nice to give the gasket number.
Please read description (under video) I list all the part numbers there!
It would have been nice if you were grateful that he made a video at all. Man people are lazy. Before the internet, and Google, we would have had to dig through a phonebook in order to track down a repair shop or parts store. Now everything is at people's fingertips yet it's still too difficult for them to do a simple search.
Too much ah and um
too much talking