How to Replace Crankcase Oil Sump Gasket/seal & Crankshaft End Play on 11HP Briggs
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- Опубликовано: 20 май 2014
- Video on how to replace crankcase oil sump gasket, oil seal, and adjusting crankshaft end play by changing gasket thickness. Thanks for Watching!!!
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There are lots of youtube mechanics who know their stuff, but very few who know how (or who care enough) to communicate it so well. Thank you.
Thanks, I really appreciate that. I do try to put as much detail in every video that i can, your welcome, thanks for watching!!!
Excellent Info - EXACTLY what I was looking for! Thanks for including specs and part numbers. I also really appreciated the rule-of-thumb info that can't be found anywhere except from folks like you that have real experience.
Thanks, glad to hear it helped out! Yeah I try to be more down to earth i guess you could say. Thanks for Watching!!!
Thanks for a very informative and easy to follow video. I watched several times before following the same steps with a 28 model Briggs - had about twice the number of bolts holding the sump to the main housing. Ended up using aviation form-a-gasket which is the same that I used years ago to reassemble air cooled VW engines.
Your welcome! I hear ya! Thanks for Watching!!!
I have a B&S 19.5 HP vtwin L-head that recently started leaking on the bottom. I'm pretty sure it's the crankshaft oil seal. I needed instructions... and here I am. Thanks!
I hear ya! Glad my video helped out! Thanks for Watching!!!
Thankyou sir for this very informative video. I was faced with replacing the PTO seal and crankcase gasket on a 13 hp Briggs. Your video and instructions helped me do the job correctly. Thanks fro the help.
Your welcome! Glad to help out, Thanks for Watching!!!
Thank you brother for sharing, I found your video very helpful. Im in the process on replacing my oil seal and gasket on a DRT 900 rear tine tiller.
You really know how to provide an excellent how-to video! Thanks!!
The one you used in the beginning of the video to get the sump bolts off....awesome video btw!!!
Great video! I have a 1990-vintage 12hp B&S I/C. My oil ran low and I thought that my engine had seized (starter wouldn't budge the engine and I couldn't turn the crankshaft by hand or by pushing the mower). But a week later, when we started disassembling it (before breaking open the block), we found that it had not seized. So, we put it back together, drained and filled with 40 ounces of fresh 30w oil, and started it up. It seemed to be running just fine. We then completed the reassembly of the Craftsman riding lawn mower.
The following afternoon, my son reported that when he was cutting the lawn, the engine started smoking. He shut it off immediately and pushed it back into the shed. When I got home from work, I discovered that the plastic loom for the headlight wires had melted against the block (this explains the smoke). I also discovered that 3/4 of the oil had run out through the crankshaft oil seal (there were only about 10 ounces left in the sump).
Here are my questions:
Do I just replace the oil seal or should I take the whole engine apart?
What should I check when I have it apart?
Why would the engine suddenly start leaking oil like that? Something happened during the last mowing session, because the 40 ounces we put in the day before didn't leak onto the garage floor where we were working on it, nor in the shed when my son took it out the next day. After going out for a smoke, the mower was only in the shed a few hours and there were at least 10 ounces of oil on the shed floor (the rest apparently dripped into the lawn).
Thanks! Sounds like when the oil ran low the first time it overheated (oil acts as a cooler in these too to a certain point, and less oil means more friction) it probably just stressed the seal. If it wasn't smoking out the exhaust (burning oil) then i'd say a seal replacement would be fine, but if it is burning oil then a rebuild may be the best thing to do ( new rings, lap / adjust valves, new gaskets, etc) These are great engines, i love them. But yeah if its not actually burning oil and had just been leaking it, then i'd try a new seal for now. You can actually replace them without tearing the motor apart, just have to remove pulley (after pulling engine off mower) and put 2 screws into the seal (sheet metal screws will thread into them) or use a slide hammer and pull it out, then use apiece of pipe to drive the new one on. its easier with it apart but this will save time / and not having to get the sump gasket. Hope this helps. Thanks for Watching!!!
fnaguitarplayer9
Thanks for your reply. We’ll open it up and clean it out. There will be a lot of sludge. I ordered the upper bearing too. Is there any chance that would go bad from a few minutes of running almost without oil?
We recieved the rest of the parts (case gasket, 2 oil seals) but the bearing is currently backordered (and was the most expensive part in the order) so I wouldn’t object to cancelling it.
Thanks again.
your welcome. i wouldn't think the bearing would be bad but its possible. Usually the rod or cylinder is the main parts that scores with no oil. Thanks for Watching!!!
Took it all apart & found that the oil slinger/governor had been destroyed. Replaced it, upper bearing, all seals, and gaskets.
Only problem was that when I tightened the piston rod cap bolts to spec (14 ft-lbs), could not turn the crankshaft. Had used Permatex assembly lube, which is as thick as Elmer’s glue. Thought that might be the problem. No scoring on the crank, rod, or cap, btw. Took apart the rod, cleaned the bearing surfaces with brake cleaner, & lubed with 30W.
At 14 ft-lb, now just very, very hard to turn, so I backed off to 10 ft-lb & it was only very hard, so I bent the tabs in place & completed reassembly.
Starter cranked it, so I added oil, attached spark plug, & it started. Ran fine for an hour at low idle (didn’t overheat or leak anything), so I call it fixed.
Odd, though. It had been six weeks since I disassembled it, so I don’t exactly recall the force to turn before I disassembled, but I think it was easier than now.
Top notch very informative ! have the same vintage briggs 11hp cast iron on a lawn tractor. I think the sump gasket replacement is the same procedure on briggs 10hp - 12hp
Thanks Mr.Hill, you saved me some experimentation.
Da A Mr Hill??? Your welcome, Thanks for Watching!
I was joking, you sound like Hank Hill.
fnaguitarplayer9 ohh I see haha I was wandering what you meant!
Thank you for making the video, it helps
Your welcome, Thanks for Watching!!!
Thanks for the video. I'm working on one exactly like that. It started leaking real bad all of the sudden, and started to knock. I found out that all of those sump bolts are loose. I haven't got a chance to dig in to it yet to see if the knocking is just from the loose sump or something more serious like the rod letting go. Time will tell. I feel a whole lot more confident digging in after watching your video.
your welcome! i hear ya, hopefully its from the bolts working loose. It could be rod knock if the oil got to low or from years of use. hard to say really. I hear ya! Glad to help out. Thanks for Watching!!!
+fnaguitarplayer9 just in case you were curious. a loose sump can cause the counterweight to knock against the block and simulate self destruct mode. I tightened up the bolts and it got quiet. So looks like I will be doing gasket and seal now that I know the rod isn't letting go. Guess it's a good thing to be familiar enough with a machine so you can catch this kind of stuff in time. Thanks again!
I'll have to remember this next time i run into one thats knocking bad, i hear ya! no problem, thanks for letting me know what happened!
Thanks for the video. You are very good at this.
Your welcome, appreciate that. Its a hobby i picked up helping my dad keep the mowers running, I like working on small engines more than anything. Thanks for Watching!!!
Man thanks for posting!
This helped alot never done a crank gasket couldnt figure out what all the xtra was for now i know
lfouse232 I hear ya! Glad to help out! Yeah it sets the crankshaft end play, stacking gaskets as needed.Thanks for Watching!
Excellent. Thanks a lot, I am ready to do the job now.
Jeff Minton Your welcome, good luck on your project! Thanks for Watching!!!
Thank you sir! Very helpful
+PuchMaxi1988 Your welcome! Thanks for Watching!!!
Dude, you might have been a lifesaver today. Bought a used 12 hp Toro rider with a Briggs and Stratton that has oil pumping out of that seal area. Buying parts today, putting them in tomorrow. $125, with a bagger (both in great shape, and $12 for the gasket, and an oil seal), and I might be the happiest camper around. :)
Heard that! Thats not a bad deal at all, glad my video helped out! Thanks for Watching!!!
got it all together and running good, no leaks, nothing wrong except it seems like it's running kind of rough. Wish I knew someone who knew enough about these things to hear it run and diagnose it. Wondering if I got the carb connections hooked up right. Can't seem to find a diagram of how they are supposed to go.
Randy Farber
Glad to hear you got it going, if you could make a video i could tell you whats going on with it (more than likely, sometimes its hard to diagnose something without actually physically looking at it) I do have a video on how to setup the linkages on these motors.
There is a lever attached to the throttle that is also attached to a shaft coming out of the lower part of the engine. It is bouncing back and forth, affecting the idle. If I hold it still the engine runs evenly. If I let it go, it lopes. Could that be the issue? It does have a slight spring on it.
Randy Farber
I'm not sure of what that could be right off hand, if you could take a picture (i can give you my email address) or make a video showing what your talking about, i could probably tell your more.
Thank you for the end play spec. I couldn’t find.
Great video!
Thanks for Watching!!!
Well done - thanks.
Thanks. Very useful. Gabriel.
+Adina M Your welcome, Thanks for Watching!!!
The gaskets you used in this video would they work on a 8hp briggs#191707. If not what would you recommend recommend.
Good info.....and not to much rambling...LIKE THAT!
Thanks! I try to stay to the point, but now and then I might ramble haha Thanks for Watching!!!
EXCELENT VIDEO
Thanks for Watching!!!
The area where the seal rides on the crankshaft is worn enough that a new seal still allows oil to leak. is there a "speedi sleeve" like they make for the chevrolet harmonic balancer seal. I.E. slips over the shaft and gives the seal a new surface to ride on.
Devin Rosenblum I know what your talking about, I just replaced the timing chain in my truck, i was concerned about that crank seal on it, but it was fine. I've never heard of it for a small engine, my suggestion would be to find a used crank (off ebay) or take it to a machine shop, they might be able to make a sleeve for it, or turn the crank down and put a bushing of some sort on it. Hope this helps, thanks for watching!!!
please reply if you can i have a ttr 230 the oil seals need replaced but i want to wait a little longer i can i make a temp fix is there like an outside seal i could use sorry for the ignorant question thank you
Minuteman108 I don't think that would work, if it was like the crankcase gasket you might be able to get by with it, but on the oil seals like on the crankshaft, it won't work since whatever you use would stick to the crank as well and it would just pull off when it starts. If its not leaking a whole lot, you may be able to get by with some leak stop, or use a high mileage oil thats supposed to help with that, but you would have to check with the manufacturer to see if would work, it could cause more harm than good. Hope this helps, thanks for watching!
Thanks for this great video. I'm doing sump gasket, output shaft seal, valve adjustment and rocker gasket on 14.5hp Briggs. Very helpful video
Any idea what he's using to pre-lube the bearing surfaces? Thanks.
I use either STP or lucas oil treatment, works great. Motor oil will work to if thats all you have on hand. Thanks for Watching!!!
Hell of a damn job mid summer
thanks for watching!!!
You have to have the 015" thick gasket on at all times according to Briggs. The other thinner gaskets are for increasing the crankshaft end play only. If you have too much end play, a shim should be put between the timing gear and cover. BTW, too much end play can cause a knocking sound from the engine. I had that once and it drove me crazy trying to find it. :-)
+motoprof1441 That sounds about right, I usually start with it first and go from there, very rarely have i had to shim it further, but sometimes you will need to use the thinner ones to start with, just depends on the engine, there all different. I hear ya! That could definitely cause a knock. Thanks for Watching!!!
Do you have any videos of how to replace the crankcase bushings in the briggs intek engines?
No, actually I don't. I've never had to do it, to be honest about it. Thanks for Watching!!!
Assuming your talking about crankshaft bushings right?
Yes, that is correct. I am not able to find a video of it anywhere. If you find one, please let me know. Your videos are very good. I make my living repairing small engines and really enjoy your videos.
I guess its not a real common repair, you might have to take it to a machine shop along with the crankshaft and have them machine bushings for it and have them pressed in. Appreciate that very much!
What would happen if the crankshaft has no play? can the engine be damaged?
So a good amount a end shaft play is normal I have a briggs 206 it was bought new and i have it on a mini bike and the clutch moves a little and makes a knick sound almost the original owner told me the end shaft play is normal it seems close to the clearance you have in your video
can you replace the oil seal for the crankshaft without taking the motor apart? For instance, Can I stand the mower on its end, take off the PTO and pulley and replace the seal? The reason I ask is that I replaced the seal and all gaskets and had to take it apart again to replace the camshaft.. getting kinda pricey replacing the gaskets because of not knowing what was wrong. I really like your videos, they have helped me a lot. You do a good job. Thanks for your help!
Mark Arnold Yes you can, but it is much harder to do, i should its harder to get the old one out, but once you get it out the new one will go on fairly easily if you have a piece of pipe (like pvc pipe) to press it back on with. only reason i replace the crank cover at the same time is because most of the time they need replaced at the same time, not always though, if the crank cover is still good then yeah, i'd just replace the seal. your welcome! thanks for watching!!!
GOOD JOB. TY
Your welcome, Thanks for Watching!!!
Great video. I am replacing the gasket on thiss same engine. I discovered when I pulled the sump off the end of the crankshaft is scored real bad and the area where it goes through the oil seal. I guess it has been run over the years low on oil. What are your thoughts on this? Can I just replace the gasket, and oil seal and watch the oil level like a hawk or is this a disaster waiting to happen. Thanks.
I ran into a similar problem a couple years ago on a generator, only much worse, it actually seized up at that bearing, we took it apart and I sanded the crankshaft and bearing down with really rough paper, probably like 40 grit, just to get the scores out then i went over it with a much finer paper like 320 or so, to get out any scratches, replaced the seal and its been fine ever since. You just have to be careful not to take to much metal away or you'll have play in the bearing, i would skip the rough paper in this case and use just a 320 or so grit paper to smooth it down, just enough so you can feel the score marks with your fingernail, thats a general rule on score marks if you can't feel them with your fingernail its not that big of a deal. If you let it go it will probably lock up at some point and since its rough where the seal rides, it will burn out the new seal in no time. Hope this helps, and like i said just don't crazy with the sand paper just do what you have to do. Thanks for Watching!!!
Thanks for the advice. Keep on keeping on!
your welcome!
Would this same process work on a 17.5HP Briggs Engine?
William Lefin Yes, pretty much, the only difference would be any part #'s i showed, that is a slightly bigger engine than this 11HP, but overall yes it would be the same. Sorry for the late reply, thanks for watching!!!
my 16hp briggs is smoking from a leak in crankcase should i replace those
seals
+Johnathan Caldwell If its smoking from the exhaust it isn't from seals it would be from worn piston rings, but if you mean there is like vapor coming from a seal/gasket or a mist then yes it would have to be toredown and new seals and gaskets put in. Thanks for Watching!!!
I got a 1/4" of play in my crank, will this fix it?
wow. It may or may not, it depends on what kind of gaskets is on it now, but i'd get the thinnest one for it, that should cut it down alot. Thanks for Watching!!!
Should you change the oil seal every time ? or just when its leaking? GREAT VID BTW!
I suggest changing the seal while you got it apart, preventive maintenance, and it doesn't cost much to replace. But thats up to the person doing it, and if i was replacing the gasket and didn't have a seal and it wasn't leaking, I would more than likely re-use the old one. But if you have a new one, replace it while your in there. Kind of like on a vehicle, you never replace just the clutch disc, you replace all of it, pressure plate and throwout bearing, so its all new. Thanks, appreciate that! Thanks for Watching!!!
good stuff to know
Thanks for Watching!
can you put links to all important tools and items you used?
You basically just need the basic mechanic tools, sockets, ratchet, wrenches, gasket scraper, etc, the list goes on, there's always a unexpected tool you will need. I actually have a video on tool needed for basic small engine repair, you can find it on my channel, i can link it if you need me to. Thanks for Watching!!!
What kind of socket wrench is that .....that things cool as hell???
Its a old Craftsman speeder ratchet, 3/8" drive. It was given to me from a friend, its the first one i've ever seen, works really good for those long bolts! Thanks for Watching!!!
My riding mower which had a 11hp Briggs and Stratton will not start I have cleaned the carb, changed plugs, even sprayed starter fluid and still will not start.. anyone have ideas?
check it for spark, and i show how to diagnose spark problems in this video ruclips.net/video/S8B7Xwpz94w/видео.html if you have any more questions feel free to ask. Thanks for Watching!!!
Thanks for responding and helping...I'll let you know what I get
your welcome, sounds good!
Is there a followup to this? Does it run? Does it leak?
It runs and doesn't leak, i never made another video on that particular engine. This video was just for that particular repair. Thanks for Watching!!!
I always put the blue loctite on my sump bolts ..
My cranshaft has no endplay I don't think it had any before I put this piss thin replacement gasket in but not positive
May have to use another gasket or double on it to get some clearance.thanks for watching!!!
You disassemble engines just like me lol
haha I hear ya! Thanks for Watching!!!
Sorry the one you used to spin the bolts off is the one I mean!!!
just pulled the same engine off of an old craftsman for the same reason. same bolt that is missing in this video was just rattling around in the whole and none of the bolts were very tight. interesting
Josh Peterson I hear ya, that is weird, must be a certain vibration or something causing that on these motors for some reason. Thanks for Watching!!!
Other videos guys drill a hole in the seal and use a screw to pull it out.
That works good too! Thanks for Watching!!!
At time set 2:00
Also my bolt stripped the thread at 40ftlbs.wtf
i have a question is that seal a 1 piece or a two piece? , msg back with email and ill send pics explaining
its a one piece seal. Thanks for Watching!!!
You should hear the words I say when my engine flops down on it stop like that.
LOL thanks for watching!!!
G