How to replace a starter gear on Briggs and Stratton Starters (both rollpin and C clip type)
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- Опубликовано: 20 дек 2024
- In this video i show how to remove and replace a starter gear on briggs and stratton starters. Best to have a tool to remove the c clips, this how to if you don't have the tool, like me. Thanks for watching.
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Thanks for the fair warning on the C clip flying off. I held the starter in a box and popped the C clip off and it stayed in the box. Seeing the difficulty you had putting the C clip back on I put the starter vertical and laid the C Clip on the shaft, then took a 10MM socked on top of the C clip and with one tap of the hammer it was on.
haha your welcome! I bought a bunch of them in case i loose them haha I hate this type! Thanks for Watching!!!
Worked like a charm. It took longer to put the starter on than to replace the gear. Your video was a huge help. Better than a manual any day.
Thank you for this video. While it was a real pain in the you know what, I did replace the gear on my starter today. Thanks to you. You ain't kidding that the dang C-clip removal and then subsequent re-installation is a royal pain. But with a bit of perseverance and your guidance, I was able to do it, re-install my starter and get my mower running today, just in time to put it away for the winter. Thanks so much!
The assembly of the lawn mower could be done without any problems ruclips.net/user/postUgkxTPN04aT-Qdjr_KS3ql7ng8wnU3wwsCqk also recommend I just puzzled something about the red strange “key”. However, it quickly turned out that this creates a kind of contact bridge between battery packs and lawn mowers. An additional backup as a father of a 1 year old nephew is great!! :-)
I looked at about 3 other videos on replacing a starter--one pushed the expensive Briggs & Stratton pin remover. Which is at least $73! Well, I was determined not to buy it. So I tried just about all other removal methods and odd tools. I struggled. I even used an awl (ice pick): only to pick my hand 4 times!
And then I saw your video--slowly take 2 flathead screwdrivers...EVEN I COULD REMOVE THE STUBBORN C-PIN THIS WAY! Thanks so much for keeping it simple!
Good video. To get the C clip back on, I set it on top of the shaft & use a 7/16 deep well socket & a small hammer to set it down into the groove. It works slightly similar to the tool they make for it.
Lucas Howard Thanks! I have heard of this before, I'll give it a try next time I run into this type. Thanks for Watching!!!
+Lucas Howard I just said this then read yours sorry
🙋🏻♂️ I noticed that also, but a little grease would help hold C clip in place guys. 3-25-2023 👍🏻🇺🇸🫶🏻
@@vicbitterdog ditto..
I found that a 3/8 worked best for me.
There's nothing like a no nonsense video. You make it look easy and saved me some money. Thanks much!!!
After my B&S starter smoked, I ordered a replacement. It had a 14 tooth gear and the old one was 16. Thanks to your clip I had the guts to swap the gears and solve my problem. That little 'c' clip was nasty, but I sprayed a little silicone on it and tapped it on. Thanks for the video!
I hear ya! Yeah, that clip is a pain, i hate that type, i much prefer the roll pin style, much easier to take apart and re-install, unless its rusted up. your welcome, Thanks for Watching!!!
Thanks for the warning about the C clip. Cut up a beer carton to make a contained area for the attempt. Grease on top and grabbed a 9mm ring spanner. Sat the spanner on top shaft with the C clip on it and gave it a hit with the hammer. Popped on first time no worries....couldn't believe it.
Thank you very much for the video. I went down and bought a gear for my roll pin style today ($5.00) and had it on and the mower running 5 minutes after I watched the video.
Good video. I liked the way you showed how to replace the pinion gear held on with either a roll pin or a C-clip and you showed details on removing the roll pin using a 1/8-inch punch that is not tapered. I needed to know how to remove the roll pin without damaging the starter.
Thanks! Glad to help out! Thanks for Watching!!!
I set the starter in a vice (made sure to secure using the mounting bracket, not the starter housing so it wouldn't crush the unit) and a closed 3/8 wrench end on top of the C clip. Whacked it down and she was pretty much set. Thanks for the helpful video to get me and eventual the tractor started!!!
I found it, that helped somewhat. I was able to get the flywheel cover off, after about 20 bolts. The starter is bolted to the engine through the top (2 bolts) and 1 bolt was easy to get to, the other is under the flywheel. However when I got the cover off and tried to start I could see that the drive gear was stuck in the down position and not engaging the flywheel! A tap and a dousing of WD40 seemed to do the trick for now, the gear itself looks like it's still in good shape. Thanks again!
After watching your video I replaced the parts of the new starter with the old starter parts( Metal) because the new starter lasted 7 starts and plastic gears got tore up I guess because there was no lubricant on them, I also used the socket idea for installing the clip and it worked great! Thanks for posting this video.
Your welcome, Thanks for Watching!!!
Good video. But a suggestion on the second one with the c clip you can use a socket to tap it down over the tapered end right into the groove. Find which socket works best over the shaft before installing the gear assembly. Hope this helps and makes it easier for ya. Thanks for the video.
I'm glad that I saw this. With the arrival of colder weather the starter gear on my pretty new Briggs and Stratton powered lawnmower stopped engaging the ring gear. There is a small possibility that the plastic gear might be damaged but I think it's just stuck in the down position. Removal and inspection is going to be necessary. If WD-40 can help matters I'll be very happy.
Sometimes they will stick or may have dirt build up on the bendix but usually will clear up with penetrating oil. Thanks for Watching!!!
I bought the first starter kit a long time ago. Finding a new starter on Amazon fully together for 25 dollars I decided it is time to get the kit on and tractor working. This video shows what not to do. Thanks
Yep, the price has came down alot on them, its almost cheaper to get a new starter then trying to fix one now! Thanks for Watching!!!
Thank you! This was EXACTLY what I needed to fix my starter!!
ALL the teeth on my starter were completely stripped away. This is going to save me a couple bucks for sure! (By couple, I mean a trip or call to a mobile small-engine repair guy, easily $30-$50 for this type of service call.)
Your welcome! Glad to help out! I hear ya! I just had that happend on my mower this past week, had to put a new one it (made a video, will be putting it up soon) the gear was making noise then it stripped out right on camera, perfect timing!!! I know right, shops charge a fortune! Thanks for Watching!!!
Thank you helped me a ton when the starter spun the ainchent plastic on my Lawn boy LT12H from the 90's!
I'm getting ready to tear into mine this week and was researching when I found your video. Thanks for sharing.
I hear ya, your welcome! Thanks for Watching!!!
Thanks so much for making this video and sharing it. I've been working on one of my cub cadets on and off for about four days trying o figure out how to repair the starter gear. Biggest problem was getting yo the you bolt attaching the starter to the engine. It was almost impossible to get to. I gab yo grind down a 13mm socket to make it small enough to get into the very small space surrounding the bolt. Once that was done, I was able O get the starter out and on a bench where your video showed me how to drive out the roll pin. Piece of cake thanks to your help!!
Your welcome! I hear ya, its hard to get to some of them, especially the opposed twin cylinder briggs and strattons, one bolt is under the flywheel, have to wrench it all the way! Glad to help out, Thanks for Watching!!!
I am so glad we found this video, it helped us so much. We were on each other's nerves trying to figure out how it came apart to put another part on. I need to subscribe to this. Thanks so much to the one who made it and shared.
+Remah Howell I also found this to take all the guess work out - apparently I have the roll pin, and I ordered a new gear on EBAY for $3.50 shipped !!
But please stop using WD-40. There are better lubricants, and penetrants out there.
+TIMEtoRIDE900 I hear ya, thats a good deal! I hear ya, I like wd myself, but I usually pb blaster for loosening bolts and stuff, alot of different stuff that would work great. Thanks for Watching!!!
good video, thanks for keeping it "G" rated so I can share with my family.
+Jeff Graha Appreciate that! I always try to keep videos as clean as possible, I want everyone to be able to watch my videos. Thanks for Watching!!!
Thanks heaps for posting this vid.My starter failed yesterday, the gear had jammed itself at 45 degrees between the outside cover and the edge of the teeth of the ring gear.My big problem was although I found all the missing bits that were scattered down the driveway, I didn't have a clue if was all there or how it fitted together. Now thanks to your vid I have learned some thing useful.Obviously, the locking clip failed. It was also found it on the driveway.Once again, thanks mate. Cheers
+tryhardparrot Your welcome, glad to help out! I hear ya, glad you got it fixed and was lucky enough to find all the parts! Thanks fro Watching!!!
I am glad I found this as most people think their starter is bad because the engine won't turn over, going clunk, and it is really that their engine is full of gas from a faulty shut off solenoid at the carburetor, or their valves are severely out of adjustment creating too much compression. Key on, valve is supposed to open allowing fuel, key off it is supposed to close. It can get gummed up and allow fuel past when in off position filling crank case, or you left key on and it filled. This motor is notorious for this and a manual in line shut off between tank and carb is essential to prevent gas in your oil. I am sure many shops have ripped off many customers by charging them for expensive repairs when it was gas in their oil. My suggestion to most if repairing the starter and the starter gear looks fine, would be to bypass the snap ring removal as most only needed to inspect the brushes and sand the commutator. Remove rear 2 bolts and slide internal brush pack out, then pull the entire assembly out from the other end. Sand commutator, inspect brushes, and grease rear shaft. You can avoid the grease suction problem by rotating shaft at starter gear back and forth while applying pressure to back plate. The trick to keeping the brushes in upon reassembly is iron wire cut in two pieces shaped like a horse shoe. They criss cross each other at center as one holds in two brushes and the other does same. Top wire must be 2" longer as it sits higher to clear lower wire holding other two brushes at 3 and 9 oclock, longer wire holds brushes at 12 and 6 oclock. Works perfect and slide back plate in, wires should stay as long as they are flush against brushes. Then pull them out and it makes replacing brush pack easy.
That is very true, or oil got into the cylinder from being tilted the wrong way or something like that. yeah, on OHV motors, its almost always the valves out of adjustment making it hard to crank over, they have a compression release on the camshaft, some of the older L Head / flathead motors have a release as well. Thanks for Watching!!!
It has been a very long time since I did anything for a starter.. Instead of putting the Pinion Gear the first in line on the Bendix Drive I put if on last keeping it engaged to the flywheel, but keep thinking about not being right. But I don't feel bad cause an experienced Tech got it backwards as well. I'm hoping the tech just didn't know and not trying to sell me a new Flywheel. Watched your video and got it straight. Will be showing the Tech in the morning what was wrong. Thanks bunches!
Don't forget to check bolt tightness, there has to be a lockwasher on each bolt otherwise they bottom in the hole and leave a dangling starter motor that strips threads faster. Chk starter frequently for looseness/wobbly install (loose or bottomed bolts). 2. U can use 9mm or 5/16 socket & hammer to tap the snap ring back in. 3. One guy showed how by turning the flywheel (battery disconnected) by hand he can get the pinion gear off & one without taking starter or flywheel off. Another guy showed how he with hand grinder, ground off about 3-4" length of top side of flywheel (don't get into the flywheel teeth) to make more room to get pinion gear off easier removal again w/o taking starter or flywheel off. Good video, thanks.
I'll keep that in mind next time, Thanks for Watching!!!
Thanks so much, the previous owner had lost a couple of parts so this was a big help. Especially the close-ups.
yeah i understand, i think someone else mentioned that too at one point, i never thought of the before, I will try it out next time i work on one of these starters! Thanks for the tip and thanks for watching!!!
I have a new starter gear coming in tomorrow's mail, now I know exactly how to replace it.Thanks for the video!
cheers dude. I somehow found a free MTD 1994 rear engine in my home town in Australia for Free. I went to start it after a few starts and bang! the gear actually snapped in half. oh well the 10.5hp Briggs and Stratton works alright. thanks for the vid
I hear ya! Can't beat that! Your welcome, glad to help out! Thanks for Watching!!!
Thanks for the info. You made a pain in the a-- job so easy!
Nice video there old boy.Man i sure am glad to see another man that isn't scared to use a little penetrating oil.I work on alot of push mowers that have never seen a can of wd-40.I look at it like this here.$2.98 for a can of wd-40,or $20.00 hr.i charge for labor.Oh well works out fine for me man.Job security.
Man my starter's roll pin was so rusted and expanded up I had been slamming it with a nail + 4 lbs sledge + penetrating fluid and it STILL took forever to get it off - somehow the starter motor still works but I had to sacrifice the spring + plastic encasing in my brutish attempts. Just wanted to say your video(s) were super helpful in getting my toro 8-32 rear rider up and running great!
Oh wow! I've had them like that, i've had to drill them before too. Thanks for Watching!!!
I really appreciate you guys taking the time to post this stuff. Well done.
+Peter from the Tweed Your welcome, always glad to help out! Thanks for Watching!!!
glad it helped out! always glad to save people money, shops charge crazy prices these days!!! thanks for watching!!!
Great video. But the gear I have is good. The plastic worm gear on mine is stripped. After I get the c clip off does the worn gear slide off the armature shaft?
That makes sense! thanks for the tip! i will definitely try that out next time, sounds a lot easier!!! never thought of that!!! thanks for watching!!!
Great help! I got the nasty ring and broken black plastic gear off. Do I need to remove the flywheel to get the new gear on? The starter bolts are under the flywheel and cover.
tleihn Glad to help out! I hear ya, you should be able to install the new gear without pulling the starter or flywheel, you may have to turn the flywheel while you turn the gear to get it to go down on the starter. Thanks for Watching!!!
glad it helped out! yeah that can happen, done that before myself! Thanks for Watching!!!
heard that! your welcome, glad to help out! thanks for watching!
thank you for the video...just used this to fix my old roper 16hp....only 35 for parts...keep up the great work.
+allan robertson Your welcome! I hear ya! Thanks for Watching!!!
Thanks I have the C Pin. But you lesson got me through it! I've got a work rider.
Thanks! For me, the trick in getting the C clip off was clamp the starter in a vice, pry up the cip from the bottom,and have a cardboard box in front of the starter to catch the clip when it flies off.
Wallroad Zipper your welcome! Thats a good idea for catching the clip. I try to keep a few on hand in case i loose it haha thanks for watching!!!
Important note when removing the C-clip from the 2nd half of this video is to do it with the starter inside a large one-gallon zip lock bag. This way when the C-clip flies off it will stay inside the bag rather than be flying across the room into oblivion, never to be found again.
That is a good idea, i've lost many of them! Thanks for Watching!!!
Your video helped me take off the gear to replace it with a new one, thanks!
TIP: The end of the shaft is tapered so the ring can be driven in with a 1/2" socket and hammer. Support the back end of the starter to avoid armature damage.
Thank you so much! I just pulled my starter out today and it's great to know what I'm up against before I pull it apart.
Your welcome, glad to help out! thanks for watching!!!
10m/3/8 scocket will drive the ring on also for reinstallation
bill carpenter I've had others say that as well, will try it next time! Thanks for Watching!!!
3/8 works perfect
Thank you, just what I needed. Had the version with the pesky c clip. My spring retaining cap wouldn't push down so I put an old 3/8 socket over the shaft and hit it lightly once with a hammer to get it moved down. To put the c clip back on - I put the clip over the top of the shaft and then put the 3/8 socket on top of it and hit it a couple times with a hammer to knock the c clip back in place.
Your welcome! Heard that, they are a pain haha Thats a good idea, i've done it like that a few times. Thanks for Watching!!!
To get the C-clip off, rotate the clip in the cap so the opening of the clip is away from the slot in the cap. Use a screwdriver that is narrow enough to fit in the slot to get under the clip as you press the cap down. Pry it up until it’s halfway off, then use needle-nose to get it off. To get it back on, set the C-clip in place and tap a 3/8” socket down over the C-clip with a hammer, a little grease may help. Worked for me. Then use a little graphite dry lube on the gear shaft, WD-40 will attract dirt
Excellent video. I would never have figured it out on my own. Got the new kit installed, and everything is working again. Just wish I didn't have to pull all the shrouds and the flywheel to get the old gear off and the new one on.
Thanks. Glad to help out, I usually remove the starter to replace the gear, depends on the motor. Thanks for Watching!
great video thanks for doing it! If anyone has a rollpin design, DO NOT try to hammer the pin out with the starter bolted to the engine! I cracked the aluminum mounting bracket in half on mine because I was hammering so hard. Unbolt the starter and use a hydraulic press.
Do you recommend removing the starter in general? I want to replace gear with it mounted
@@TalkinTuesdays that’s what I tried but that pin on mine was so tight that I broke my cast aluminum starter bracket mount. I had to press the pin out on my hydraulic press
i hate the snap ring kind, my twin eats starter gears all the time and i hate having to replace them, i'm thinking of trying a E clip or a real c clip not a bent piece of wire like briggs used from factory
Turned out I had to go to a completely different type of OUTSIDE Snap Ring. I just could not get the required ring in. And I was not about to buy a tool for over $40.00 that I would use just this one time.
Good info on the Chamfered side up (for the pinion). Mine was not labeled in any way, but I deduced that the chamfered side would engage the Ring Gear a lot easier than the "flat" side, just like a car's starter pinion.
Sure appreciate you folks who take the time to make these videos. Have done lots of these things many years ago and then forgot after not having done "whatever" again for 50 years or so.
I understand that when WD-40 (so named 'cuz it took its inventor 40 tries to come up with the formula) sold many years ago the new owners significantly raised the water content in it. No idea if this is true or just Camel Poop, but Blaster works just fine for me. Thank you.
I hear ya! I'm always glad to help people out. I do agree with that, i usually only use wd40 on stuff like that starter or hinges, and pb for rusted on bolts and stuff. your welcome, Thanks for Watching!!!
Thanks bud great video, I had this apart and forgot the spring placement. Keep up the good work!
Your welcome, Thanks for Watching!!!
Abut the c ring. Could you find a socket the same size as the c-ring that fits over the shaft and tap it on that way? If you understand what I mean. Thanks
Awesome video. Video quality was the best I've seen in an instructional video. Plus you were very descriptive.
Appreciate that! Thanks for Watching!!!
Great tip! I used a 3/8 deep well socket for this process.
Do you know if these are inner changeable ? Can you use either one on the same motor thanks in advance
My gear looks fine however the spring and washer look melted and I see shaving around it, is there an oem part of the spring?
Thank you so much for your video it saved me from buying a new starter and saved me all kinds of time so thank you it was great!
Only question is if you have a “c” clip style and want to convert to a Roll Pin style do you have to buy a RollPin style starter first? Thanks
Well, you make driving that pin out look so easy. The roll pin in my starter must be welded in. I pounded and pounded and it does not budge. Penetrating oil and all. I ended up breaking one of the plastic pieces. Life is too short.
@Bobbymitchell10 yeah. wander if mine has that, not sure never paid attention, i just pulled the starter on mine. i need to get a new starter for mine, it drags alot.
I just finished rebuilding my B&S starter motor.....the kind with that damn circlip. After watching this and other videos, I noticed that they conveniently pause at the point of showing how to install the clip.........and then restart once the clip is on. Well, I figured out a way to do it in less than 1 minute and it doesn't use a deep socket. Start one end of the clip in the motor shaft groove and then use a large pair of channel lock pliers to pinch the other end into the groove. Finish the job with a pin punch, screw driver, etc to fully seat the clip. Easy peasy!! Maybe I'll post the video.
+midyearguru I hear ya. hahaha yeah, well about that, I had like 10 minutes of video trying to do it on video, gave up on recording it haha Makes sense, i'll try it. Thanks for Watching!!!
That black plastic thing fits on different places on different models ?
Hi, would you happen to know if these starters are interchangable? My dad has a Craftsman LT1000 which uses the clip style. I have a good roll pin starter. The measurements seem the same as well as the gear travel, the only difference seems to be the roll pin starter is a little longer cause of the top spring. Hope this made sense. Thanks
Yes, either will work, as long as they both have the same gear (metal or plastic). Yeah the taller spring shouldn't matter. No problem! Thanks for Watching!!!
Looks like you use it properly. On grass only. I just finished a customers AYP (Sears) rider. He uses it in fields. Blades were rounded bad, deck crammed w/weeds, etc; belt worn and loose. I sharpened, replaced/adjusted belt...I know he's gonna whine (he's a whiner customer) because I replaced the belt less than a year ago. This time I'm gonna tell him, "These are riding LAWN mowers, not field and brush mowers." No warranty, etc.
Most people THRASH riding mowers. You don't, obviously.
Thanks.
Un the second type is it possible to remove the other part under the gear???i need to remove my starter because it burned and that part is not letting me get to the two bolts that hold the starter to the block
Thank You for posting. My gear split in two. I had the pin type. Your video really helped me out.
+Dark Jedi Your welcome! oh wow, most of the time the teeth just strip off. Thanks for Watching!!!
Well as it turned out when doing the job the two bolts on the starter were loose and the starter twisted to the side causing the gear to split in two. The engine had just been replaced at the shop and someone was sloppy and either didn't tighten the bolts to proper torque and didn't use thread lock on it. So that was the reason why it happened. As the old saying goes "If you want something done right , do it yourself." :-)
I hear ya, that will do it! haha i hear ya, that is true!
I bought a used 20 HP 46" husker and when I bought it the starter gear was striped but only half the gear was striped in fact I found the cap that holds the spring was magnetized to the flywheel and after reviewing your video I noticed the metal spacer below the starter was missing which may be causing the starter gear to not fully in gauge my question is what is the name of the spacer after two starter gears I figured there was something missing. Could you advise me please.
Thanks so much for this info as my gear broke today.
Glad to help out! thanks for watching!!!
Spend $15 for the kit with all new hardware, take the discarded white nylon piece, it is the exact right diameter of the metal shaft to smack the snap ring over the taper of the shaft without going metal on metal.
+jonzy246 That makes sense, I'll do that next time i get the kit. Thanks for Watching!!!
I needed to see the order for the pats to go on. My old one flew apart, which is why I need to replace it. I do know an easier way to get that C ring back on, though. If you have a deep socket, that's best. Just use a socket which barely fits over the shaft on the starter - I THINK it's 3/8, maybe a 7/16 though. Place the ring on the tapered end of the shaft, put the socket over it, and dive it down until it snaps in place.
EDIT: Finally fixing mine, and found a 10mm works great. I used a deep 10mm socket to drive it into place. If yu are having trouble getting the ring back on, you might wanna give it a try.
When removing snap rings, if you can (or if you have a friend around to do this), hold a screwdriver against the end of the shaft when you take it off. When it pops off, it is trapped on the shaft of the screwdriver. Beats sweeping the area with a magnet. Yep, been there a few times...
good to hear! haha glad it helped. i try to be more hands on and to the point than manuals. thanks for watching!!!
Hey I had a question. That shaft that sticks out the starter where the gears/bearings goes, is it supposed to have and slack. Is it suppress to wiggle?
it will some, if its excessive then the parts are probably worn. Thanks for Watching!!!
@V8Mike93 yeah replacing the starter gear ain't a repair that is done very often. especially on the newer briggs that have a metal gear, they seem to hold up pretty good. but i prefer a plastic starter gear haha thanks for watching man
@Bobbymitchell10 yeah i do to. there a pain. my twin has the c clip too, only had to replace the gear once, because the c clip came loose and it just shredded the gear haha the replacement i buy (from tewarehouse) is a actual clip, the factory ones looks just like a piece of bent wire haha i wander if a snap ring (type used with snap ring pliers) would work on one, i'd think they would be to thin. thanks for watching!
Does the 14 teeth pignon gear shaft diameter accepts a 16 teeth pignon gear?
@fnaguitarplayer9 yeah i cant figure it out either i will have to look at it next time i have it apart, mine has notches on one side of the ring gear so i dont have to pull the starter to replace the gear
@Bobbymitchell10 yeah they can be a pain. the way i do is just buy the whole end cap and replace it, it comes with brush holders. check out my newest video (still processing right now, should be up afterwhile)
for the starter with the c clip can i remove the c clip with the starter still installed and still get new gear on?
no problem! I actually did a video showing how to remove and reinstall the starter, look through my videos for that. Must be a twin cylinder, the starters on them are slightly different than these, but its the same procedure replacing the gear. thanks for watching!
Is there another material beside plastic gear ?
Thanks! I have a 10hp B&S and I need a new starter or at least the two end caps, after watching the video. I have not found the model number... the engine was a gift, so no paperwork. Stamped on the eared end plate of the starter is the number 8905623, but I am coming up blank at the parts houses. Any advice you could give? Thanks in advance
Nancy's Ranch Your welcome! I hear ya. The model, type and code numbers are stamped in the flywheel cover, usually over top of where the spark plug is or side of the cover on the starter side of engine. If its a newer one there will be a plate riveted on the top of flywheel cover. Yeah that number on the starter is pretty much useless, it must be a part # just for that plate or something. Hope this helps! Thanks for Watching!!!
fnaguitarplayer9 Thanks for the help! I found it! Under the rust it was staring me in the face right on top where you said it would be.
Nancy's Ranch Your welcome! yeah, I hate when they rust up, makes it hard to see, sometimes you can take a wire brush to it and then paint it, sounds weird but if you put a few light coats of paint on them it makes them easier to read sometimes. I'm thinking about putting this on my video list, identifying small engine model numbers.
@V8Mike93 you mean plastic flywheel gear? i have one like that. ever have the magnets come loose on the bottom of flywheel (stator magnets). my 12.5 power built locked up, thought sure it seized up, turns out thats what happened and jammed it all up haha
No problem, glad to help out, thanks for watching!
i've never damaged a started by doing this. this is just one way you can do it. not the best but it works. if you don't spray oil on it the parts won't work freely and can lock up and cause damage to the starter.
Thanks, 1983 Murray still running strong after rehab, rewire, clean out, 12.5HP I/C (industrial / Commercial) B&S 42" cut; why not a new J.Deere, well those are now all plastic which cracks apart in just 5 yrs, this 1983 Murray is ALL metal and can take the occasional impact with bushes, we love it, so we rehab'd it. I wax it once a week with yellow spray wax. BTW: I might have chosen a socket exactly the diameter of the c ring/clip to tap it down.
Your welcome! I feel the same, I hate plastic! Thanks for Watching!!!
🙋🏻♂️👍🏻 3-25-2023…… I notice that the shaft as to where the C clip fits is flat top cone. So it’s possible that the C clip could be placed centered over that , and use a small socket and tap it on until it pops in place. And using grease would allow ease of fit.
But I never removed one or reattached the C clip , so it’s just a thought. ( Definitely have something close to catch that CLIP if not in a shop ) . 😍 Just took the C clip off, and I was very careful to have my hand over that area to catch it. There’s a slot in the edge of that top washer that contains the C clip. Well, I used a flat screwdriver of that width, which enabled the removal of the C clip much easier. Just turned that top washer until C clip came off, NOT flying across the room. Also, I selected Subscribe ❣️❣️
i didn't know that drive mechanism had a name!!! its hard to say, most places will try to rip people off. but on most of these motors the ring gear on the flywheel is replaceable, on newer engines anyways, on the older ones it was part of the flywheel casting. your welcome, thanks for watching!
everyone does things there own way. My mowers are well taken care of, like you say alot of people cut fields with them, i always clean and wax my mower everytime i get done with the grass. Thats another thing too, all the dirt gets blown in past the cooling fins and burns motors up. I know what you mean about it being a dust collector, but to be honest i've never seen any dirt on mine, and i don't even have the starter gear cover on.
Where can you buy the roll pin type I can’t find one anywhere
When reinstalling the c clip use a socket that will just fit down over the shaft.place the c clip on top of the shaf tthen tap it down over using the socket.Then squeeze it with your pliers or vice grips to insure its tight.
Thats the way i do em anyway.
And yes i keep spare clips in the shop because they will fly when removing...sometimes never to be found.I found pointing the shaft at a ice cream container or bucket
works well for trapping the clip.
My Snapper has the Intec engine & the starter whines... I'll test if battery is good for trouble shooting, but the starter is the C-clip style. So can i get new starter that is the rollpin style and install it? Or do i have to use the same C-clip style that is on the mower now? Does it matter?
was the new gear made up of some sort of metal?
your welcome, glad to help! thanks for watching!!!
original 1991 roll pin won't release. soaked in wd 40 overnight. will not budge 1 mm. any ideas? thanks
I have two riders with Briggs motors on them, I am having trouble with the plastic gears, I put a new gear on one of these mowers & mowed two lawns & the starter gear was chewed up & would not start the mower again. What is going on?
Is it the single cylinder or twin cylinder starters? I had a issue on a opposed twin, and had to drill the holes out bigger to get it to space a little closer to the flywheel, but that won't work on these singles. Could be a worn out bendix, the spiral piece where the gear goes on it, either that or i've noticed the non-briggs brand gears do not hold up good at all. Thanks for Watching!!!
@1972FordF150 yeah it is really nice, i like the zoom, thats a BIG help on these videos and so is the auto focus, my old camera had either regular or macro, this camera makes alot clearer videos.