Saitek Pro Flight Yoke Ultimate Fix (Part 1)
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- Опубликовано: 17 окт 2015
- Rebuilding your Saitek yoke to be a whole lot better. This is from an original idea by 'robertpdx' at AVSIM. See his original post here: www.avsim.com/topic/464399-sai...
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That smooth flare on landing at the end of your video HAD to have felt rewarding. I also have a Saitek (love the Sly Tek overwrite), and have tried my own engineering to get the detent out of the equation. This video has given me hope. Love how you think "out of the box", so to speak! Thanks for sharing this!
Thanks for the comments. I think in retrospect it would be better without the long extension. I had intended to have it extending through the instrument panel but things have moved on since then!
Love these kind of videos! I didn't notice the length of it when I started and I thought these might have been a series...so glad to see the whole process all the way through. Looking forward to the next one.
+NZ255 I did wonder if I should do this as a series instead of one-shot. There will be at least one follow-up to talk about how it flies...
You are definitely one of my favorite channels on RUclips. Keep up the good work!
+Prestyn Chapman Ha, Wilco ;)
I love how you fixed that. I have also found that the elevator action is trouble some on my Pro Flight yoke, particularly noticeable on landings. When I can have a dedicated space for my flight simming I want to think about doing this modification. I would have loved to purchase a better yoke, but this one was the best for my budget.
Great video, Mark. I've was toying with a similar idea that I never put into practice, mainly because I never came up with a solution for utilizing the existing potentiometer and fixing the shaft in the original case. This video has rekindled my motivation to try again. One of my goals, though, has been to increase the full throw to a full seven inches to simulate the two Cessnas I fly (or more correctly, have flown) in real life - the 172 and the 182. I have the Cessna yoke which does give me a full 180 degrees full left to full right, but always felt then elevator was far to sensitive with just 3.5 inches of total travel. Your video gave me an idea of how to accomplish this. Thanks! I'm also toying with the weight idea to add that bit of inertia and also with adding some weight insidenthenyoke handle to give it a more solid feel. Great food for thought!
+James Rickel Thanks James. Honestly, I would like to do it from scratch, maybe using a real aircraft yoke. I did a quick eBay look and turned up a nice vintage Cessna yoke that would look great. I am now convinced you can do the mechanics very easily by separating out the pitch and roll bearings in the manner I have done here. Likewise the springs, i.e. keeping them independent of each other. And by building your own yoke you could make the travel and rotation anything you wanted! I think weighting the ailerons too might make things feel a bit more realistic, especially if you fly a big aircraft.
excellent , thorough video thanks..will be sorting your upgrde...have just bought one of these from flea bay for my boy for xmas and lo and behold the lcd screen only shows half the digits, do you know of any replacement lcds around? or how to fix an lcd? cheers
Sorry, no on the LCD. It doesn't do much anyway, so I wouldn't bother. In fact the most common fix for the Saitek LCD is a strip of black insulating tape to stick over the top of it! This is because a common fault is it sooner or later develops a persistent flicker in the backlight.
What a great video. I have the Cessna yoke. Ailerons are great. I am living with the elevator control with a monthly application of Mobil 1 synthetic auto transmission fluid, and it still binds more than I'd like. I think you definitely cracked how to completely bypass the horrible plastic bushings though. If the gear oil I'm using wears them away, I'm doing this for certain.
I don't think the Cessna yoke is as bad, since the mechanical design is different. But yes, this is a sure way to fix it once and for all!
I've just completed my own version of this now, using an existing keyboard tray, and replacing the extension/dowel with a bent steel rod as one of the other commenters linked to. It is absolute night and day, not only the notchiness gone, but also the bungee tension intuitively lets you know how much you are trying to deflect the elevators and has naturally stopped me from over-correcting so much. Parts list for me was about $25. Feels like I've tripled the value of the yoke. Thanks again for this great video.
Great, the keyboard tray sounds like a bit less hassle!
Good build. One key factor is the slides you select. Can't have any play in them.
Please keep us updated as to potential problems.
Thanks,
Paul
+PT Johnson I am hoing to do a follow-up 'review' video to discuss the performance. There is a little bit of play but in practice this isn't really noticeable when you fly it. However, you might go and source better sliders, these are really bargain basement ones.
BTW, since making this I have also disconnected the aileron spring and will be making an external bungee spring for ailerons.
Yes thanks for Suggestion, wont hurt to have a look, even replacing he Hat switch is better paying the silly prices they want for these at the moment.
I bought this yoke, the throttle, pedals, all brand new about 6 months ago. Everything works great right out of the box. No complaints.
Then this video isn't for you :)
I decided I could no longer stand the sticking elevator control so I went this route with the drawer slides. I did not mess with the handle or do any rewiring or lengthen the shaft (I'm not sure why you did actually). It was a nightmare to get it all set up, probably spent 20 hours on making it work well, but in the end it is so much smoother. However, the null zone you mention in part 2 of your video still makes it difficult to make a good landing, so I plan on purchasing the BU0836X and wiring it up. I learned one new thing by doing this project: center the yoke before turning on the PC since the current position will end up being the zero point once the drivers are loaded. Slide show of my build here: watch?v=JdgLoy6L2Kg
Thanks for your informative and entertaining videos.
Awesome! I linked your video here: (ruclips.net/video/JdgLoy6L2Kg/видео.html). The reason I lengthened the shaft on mine was I knew I was about to start experimenting with a front screen for gauges and I needed the screen to sit as low as possible. Mounting the yoke further back allowed me to mount the screen almost down to where it was touch the shaft, and ideally behind a fascia panel. In the end I didn't use the Saitek - I started with the Iris Dragonfly and then the Yoko, which is what I have now.
I ordered one and it is coming tomorrow/today
You are my Hero!! Greetings from Mexico. Im working on my own cockpit but Im only in the beggins of it.
Ha, good luck!
I enjoy your videos a lot, wish you could do more.
Could you do a build using an old keyboard for switches? This seems to be a cheap way to interface w/FS. Does this work well? And just how many functions could you make it perform. Would this be something you could do? Some of us don't have the resources to go out and buy switch panels and interface boards. Just a thought,
Paul
+PT Johnson Well using a keyboard for the switches would still require an interface board, otherwise it's just a keyboard. Even if you wanted to do it I doubt you could easily isolate individual switches unless you had an expensive keyboard with clicky keys, in which case you wouldn't want to destroy it! That said, I once completely rewired all the keys on a Commodore Vic 20 to make it work with my ZX Spectrum. That took a lot of very thin wires soldered onto the circuit board...
You could attach a second USB keyboard anyway and stick labels on the keys. Then you could just program those keys in FSX to do the functions you wanted. For more flexibility you could use FSUIPC and make Lua macros or use LINDA.
Is McGyver really exists? Yes..this man!!..great video.. :-))
Would you recommend buying the Cessna Yoke instead of the Pro Flight Yoke?
Yes, it is a much better yoke. Check out my detailed review video hearabouts. And as luck would have it, my Cessna yoke is for sale on eBay right now! www.ebay.co.uk/itm/162150240678?ssPageName=STRK:MESELX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1555.l2648
Wow the wires are so tiny. How do you solder and extend these? I am struggling a bit to be honest. I was hoping to find and buy the connectors to make extensions without cutting the original wires, but couldn't find them online anyway.
Yes, they are thin. You just have to be careful! It helps to have a decent wire stripper.
Solder using a lineman's splice and cover with heat shrink. Don't use less reliable crimp butt connectors which have the possibility of creating greater resistance or pulling apart. For wire guage that small, get this type of wire cutter, www.thonk.co.uk/shop/wire-strippers/ Dont get the type with different size holes.
hello. I have been using the Saitek for years and I think this is a great idea so I am doing it myself. I am confused as to what I should buy to extend the armature for the elevator pot ?
......also if you would entertain me so I "get it" The markings you made for the bungee cords, how did you come up with those? and last here, in the original post on Avsim he did not appear to use bungee cords at all... How is that to work?
+Joey Jones Re the bungees - he did say "There is about 3/4 to 7/8 of an inch between the bottom of the platform and the bottom of the cabinet sides, so you can fit springs or a bungee there for centering." So we must presume he did so, or as you have figured out it wouldn't work!
Extending the elevator arm - honestly, anything will do. I had some scrap aluminium lying around (the same aluminium channel you see in Part 2 for the external aileron bungees) but I could have used an ice-lolly stick or some other random piece of wood. Be warned - you will not be able to remove the little metal axle that sticks out of the end of this arm, it is actually part of a bigger piece that is encased in the plastic so you will break it if you try to force it out (as I did). I connected the extension to the arm using two nuts and bolts but you could epoxy it instead.
The markings for the bungees - this looks more complicated than it is. I just wanted to make sure the bungees were all about the same length and roughly parallel, so I drew those rectangular boxes before drilling the screw holes. If you use thin bungees like this you can tailor the length (and hence tension) by putting a few knots in them.
+Almost Aviation ...ok, thank you for that...I just returned from the hardware store and will start my build tonight after work... I mist appreciate your work...thanks again.
+Almost Aviation I did go with the ball bearing rails.
Can you play the Wish You Were Here intro on that 12 string?
+Adam Wilkinson Ha, well I probably could but it wouldn't really work without the solo!
@John Akston Yes, the cheap yokes are junk. Not sure I agree with much else of what you say. Springs and bungees can produce rising rates without hydraulics and the more expensive yokes do use proper bearings. They can also be super-smooth, as is the Yoko. Some high-end flight controls do use hydraulics, of course, such as the FlightLink rudder pedals I have, although that's just another way of (partially) approximating aerodynamic feedback from real flight controls. Most high-end systems now seem to be going active force-feedback, which in principle can simulate anything. And which is obviously going to take the price far out of reach of the casual simmer. It seems notable that there are many certified ATDs using spring yokes, so they're obviously good enough for the FAA/CAA/JAA.
The junk yokes are junk because to date there is no satisfactory price/performance compromise. This is economics, not 'stupidity'. Many have tried, most have pretty much failed. Perhaps Honeycomb has done it, but it has yet to release its yokes into the wild. Fulcrum claims to have done it, but whether that will ever get into production and with its present (already mid-range) price is unknown.
Is that deadzone natural? I mean for real life flying is there a deadzone on a lets say c172's yoke or the reactions of a real plane is way more accurate and swift
well seems you and I have a few things in common, looking around your room, I play guitar and banjo, and have built my cockpit in my spare room, I have adeering little wonder, and a goldtone bg250f, happy picking and happy flying mate graham
+Graham Scott Ah, that Deering banjo. It's mostly just hung on my wall for the last ten years. I learned a couple of tunes but I've probably forgotten them now. Perhaps I will make a it a project to learn enough to make a YT video, which is always a good incentive to practise!
The grease you find inside is silicon grease. Vaseline dries out over time. Vaseline can also dissolve or damage rubber and other petroleum based substances. Remember from chemistry, likes dissolve likes. You never mentioned, why a longer throw is better. The throw on my stock Saitek yoke seems fine. What is the difference?
By 'longer throw' I will assume you are asking why I chose to lengthen the shaft. I had planned to mount it behind a panel, so it needed to stick out further.
From the strap on your banjo and the strings on your guitar, I take your left handed?
+Ryan Harris Nope, I am right-handed. Check out the compensation on the guitar bridge :)
thanks for the vid. have one button C2 not working. is it worth taking it apart to try fix it?, is it fixable? thanks
Fixable? Probably. Worth taking it apart for that? I doubt it, it's fiddly!
Greetings Sir.Hope all is well.I know this is a old video and I am sure you are using a different yoke as of now.I am still using the saitek and I have modded and extended it six inches.It is still working out for me.My question is, on the 3 usb ports on the yoke .Are they used as power for the radio stack,multi switch and panel? In other words can you plug the saitek radio panel ,saitek switch panel and the multi switch panel in those usb,s and will they function?
You can try plugging those things into the yoke but you will probably find thay work unreliably unless you use the optional power adapter. In other words, it acts as an unpowered USB hub by default. I'd just buy a cheap powered hub and run it separately.
@@AlmostAviation Yes I have been doing that for years.I was just curious Sir.Thanx for getting back to me.
Do you have any idea of how to introduce a vibration motor inside a yoke ?
+Willy Taiti Not sure what you mean by a 'vibration motor' but you could have a look at Opus FSI. This allows you to hook up speakers to a separate sound card and connect specific sound effects to simulator events. It's intended for use with ButtKicker systems or bass transducers, rather than regular speakers. You will need to buy a separate 5.1 capable sound device but you can get a USB one for about £25.
Hi, I realise I'l late to the party here (some 8 years after the video was psted). My Saitek yoke keeps disconnecting -if I jerk it too quickly the lights go out. Also, the led on the throttle quadrant flickers some times as does the screen on the yoke. I put this down to poor electrical connections - have you experienced this as well and is there a simple fix?
The LCD screen was well-known for becoming flickery over time. I think the general 'fix' (which I used) was to stick a piece of black electrical tape over it! As for the disconnecting, I expect your are right that it's a loose connection somewhere. I guess that would be fixable if you could trace it, but the wires are all very skinny :|
Any help with the yoke being very stiff like when I am about to flare it I need to a lot of back pressure
Are you sure you're talking about the Saitek yoke?
i need help its only responding to up and down but not left or right i tried everything plz help
I would love to hear your views on the Saitek Cessna yoke.
+Steve Walton If you want to send me one I will let you know :)
Ha well I would do but I'm currently thinking of selling mine as I prefer the Eclipse :)
Do you have an Eclipse? If not, do you want to swap?
I actually have both! Otherwise that would of been an option! It's tricky actually as I do really like both but if I had to keep one it would be the Eclipse simply because it has no centre detent - although I am finding the more I use the Cessna yoke the better it's getting!
+Steve Walton If you do not use your Cessna yoke, how much would you sell it for, as I have the original Saitek yoke, but would like to extend my range!
would you recommend me removing all strings of the yoke? in real life there are no springs in the control system which centers aileron and elevator so i thought that must be more realistic
No, definitely not. You are wrong about real life, the control surfaces are centred by the effects of the airflow, which at any given speed acts just like a spring with a rising rate. The difference is that the spring tension changes as you speed up and slow down. The only time you ave no centring tendency is when the aircraft is parked (or stalled, I suppose).
@@AlmostAviation hmm you are right thx for that! i almost made the mistake getting dirty fingers of it ;P
I have had one of these yolks for years, have been through a couple of rudder pedals, and throttle quadrants. But yolk still going, with one exception the hat on the left hand yolk, keeps not letting you look al round, just up! Is there a repair for this? I would get a new one but all suppliers including manufacturers are out of stock if you do find money there anything from £300-500. So will be sticking to one I have especially if I can fix the hat. Can anyone help?
I expect you could get a new hat switch and replace it, or maybe it's a broken wire. You can dismantle the handle and have a look.
Hey, does the Saitek Pro Flight Yoke work with P3Dv4??
I can't imagine any reason why it wouldn't, it's just a standard joystick device.
Sounds good. Thanks for quick feedback.
I have the exact same yoke how ever my issue is that my yokes usb cable is broken as in its working in very specific areas and it only works for a few seconds
If you're sure it's the USB cable and you can tell where it's bad, it should be quite easy to fix. USB only has four wires and they are standard colours. I had this problem with the USB connector for my TrackIR, so I just chopped it off and then cut up another USB lead and soldered the wires together. The main problem is the wires are very thin, so you have to be careful.
Is it theoretically possible to add some kind of force feedback (ie a stick shaker/vibration/buffeting effect) to the design whilst keeping the original assembly in the case?
Anything's possible, I suppose. But i doubt it's worth doing.
@@AlmostAviation I guess then my question is does there exist a yoke for pc that does have force feedback/stall feedback?
@@MrEthanhines Yes, but make sure you're sitting down :) www.brunner-innovation.swiss/shop/
Or if you're just talking about special effects, I think an XBox controller does its vibration things in MSFS. I suppose you could just screw/tape one to the yoke and that ought to give you some feedback :|
@@AlmostAviation I am not a pilot but I have a GUT feeling that a yoke on a Cessna 172 doesn't go back to a centre position as when pulling back on the Logitech(Saitek) yoke I have a feeling that the yoke responds to the current configuration of the elevators/ailerons and also I am told that right before stalling there's a shuttering effect on the yoke as well. Theses are the types of feedback I would like to replicate.
as minhas manetes está com o fio partido de cor vermelha na placa principal e não sei onde soldar ele, você pode me ajudar?
By now I'm sure you have also looked inside the Saitek Flight Control Pedals, you probably can explain why all the wires from the potentiometers (yaw and brakes) to the small board inside, are totally naked, they even touch each other. This board failed for me and I'm looking for a replacement like an Arduino board. May be you can kindly show some light in the subject. Thank you
Sorry, I haven't looked inside the pedals. Perhaps the naked wires are grounds wires, so they should all be connected together. Perhaps your problem is a bad ground connector? Otherwise you can replace the controller with a Leo Bodnar board or similar. Using an Arduino board is going to be fiddly, so I wouldn't bother unless costs are really tight.
@@AlmostAviation Thank you for your comments. If you look inside you will see 6 naked strand wires coming from right and left brake pots, they connect into 2 headers (3 each) and into the board Vx and Vy. The Yaw pot is connected with regular sleeved wires and soldered to board. It is a bit puzzling. I will look into the boards you mentioned. Thank you again
I have a different issue, hope someone has some advice. I purchased a used Saitek pro yoke. It works fine in left turns and pitch up, but it has spastic motion in right turns and pitch down. I can watch in from exterior view, and it does it in the control panel of windows. (Win10home64)Is there a likely fix? Open the case, check the connectors, blow the dust out? Does anyone rebuild/repair these for a fee?
I would open the case and look. It should be apparent if it's a mechanical fault or not. From your description it's not clear whether both axes are affected or if the glitching is just due to one axis. Can you do smooth climbing turns to the right or descents to the left? If you have two faulty axes it seems less likely to be a worn or faulty potentiometer.
Hello, I'm having issues with the saitek cessna yoke. My aileron control for rolling to the right has a slight but very annoying zone with no resistance at all and then after 15% it has the normal resistance again. This only happens when I roll to the right. It didn't have that problem from the beginning. I searched for this problem everywhere on the internet and I just couldn't find anything. Does anyone here know a fix? And no, fixing it the way you fix the Roll on the Pro flight doesn't work as the Cessna Yoke uses gears and NOT springs.
Actually the Cessna yoke does use springs, so you likely want to try to figure out why yours appear to be slack in one part of the rotation. You can see something of the spring operation in my Saitek Cessna yoke video, here: ruclips.net/video/Rehh4ShX16Y/видео.html, from about 30:35.
Thanks, I opened the case and checked every part. At first, I thought it was the spring you're talking about but after closer inspection, (trying to look through the plastic cylinder) I found that the metal bar responsible for the ailerons is faulty. It is thinner on one side, due to the wear of the right piece of plastic supporting the springs. Now I simply have no way of fixing that as it would require no not only take that cylinder apart but also the pole itself (no clue how I'd do that). I'm very disappointed that Saitek made something that used to be an easy fix, this hard to repair. Do you by any chance have any ideas?
Oh yeah, that would probably account for it. I would guess the inner sleeve of the slot has worn, rather than the bar itself, as I think the sleeve has a plastic lining. You could try inserting some kind of shim inside the slot. I'm thinking of something like a long rectangular shim, maybe cut from a beer can or something. Whatever you do it will likely be a pain without dismantling the mechanism :(
I understand. Thank you so much for trying to help though! You definitely deserve more subscribers :).
Are you using rudder pedals mate?
Probably not in this video, but yes in general.
My Yoke system won't turn anymore. Any suggestions on how to fix this?
That seems pretty final. I guess you need to open it up and see why!
Here we are some seven years later and we now see 3D printing being more affordable and being able to do it from home.
In light of the modern day availability of 3D printing from home, what would you do differently today?
Sorry, I don't see the connection with 3D printing?
@@AlmostAviation
Well, rather than all that cumbersome attachment stuff that probably was a great idea back then but looks a bit awkward, would you choose to 3D print component parts that together create some kind of internal mechanism that allows you to attach a printed platform attached to the steering column that the potentiometer could be attached to so that the pot slides along with the column when you push in and pull out but stays put when you turn the column from side to side, also 3D printing some rings/collars for around the column that could be better shaped to attach the bungee cords to so that everything is set internally to the housing rather than having a big stick sticking out of the back and cords attached to a moving shelf.
@@wirralnomad Yes, there's probably lots of ways to skin the same cat. I think something about the inertia and robustness of this way scores, though. Admittedly it's ugly as anything other than a prototype!
@@AlmostAviation
Ugly as anything lmao, well you said that and beggars can't be choosers and I'm pretty much a beggar at this point so I wouldn't turn my nose up at something that works a treat.
I do wonder upon the feasibiliity of my own suggestions that would also include being able to release the yoke from it's restricted turning abilities by adding a stopper on a 3D printed ring collar that serves as a stopper that blocks the column from over turning if you should remove whatever piece that is currently preventing it from turning the full 180.
With all of the suggestions I have n my mind the ability to open up space that would allow me to have a gauge panel that surrounds the point on the sim where the steering column protrudes from just as on a real cockpit dashboard and so giving it a more real life layout without building a fuck off massive enclosed fucker of a cockpit in a pokey little bedroom lol.
Terraced houses are just not compatible with such flamboyant ideas, but since I want to fly a real plane too then I really do need to male my set up more convincing with regards to instrument layout so that transitioning between sim, plane and sim again is relatively easy without making it too difficult to adapt between the two.
Doing it all on a budget too is a must for me at least which means making my own clocks and dials/gauges and also housing my gaming pc internals inside my sim rather than having a separate pc tower awkwardly situated somewhere near the sim.
I would be nice to be able to shift it all down into a garden shed then instead of cluttering up my bedroom where I have many vinyl records and musical instruments to store so space saving is pretty much a vital requirement from the off.
It's a project that I would love to video and share but filming and editing is pretty much beyond my abilities, it would be an interesting project to record.
@@wirralnomad Well, good luck with all that! I will not try to dissuade you, as the creation of such a thing is a worthy thing in itself. I can't help thinking you could spend a couple of hundred pounds on a decent yoke without conceding more than one or two flying lessons, but that's just logic :) Just think, if you gave up the idea of the real world flying you could be buying Brunner force feedback, motion platforms and a garden shed to house it all!
Do you have a fix all my buttons don't work 😥
If all the buttons are inoperable that kind of suggests you have one faulty wire. It would be hard to track down, as the wires are very skinny. You might be better buying a new controller, like the Leo Bodnar BBI-32, and wiring up the buttons to that.
Cool, unfortunately the ailerons still have that's horrendous deadzone in the middle.
Not if you watch Part 2 :)
@@AlmostAviation Woahhhh!
Hilarious. The yoke itself is a joke, but your rebuild made me choke.
Well, glad to entertain!
Would you recommend one?
+Colby Bryan Out of the box, definitely not. But if you're prepared to tinker like this and you can get a second-hand one cheap, you can end up with a much better yoke. Be sure to watch Part 2, which I will be uploading later this evening!
I was going to order the yoke with throttle off of a pilot store on the Internet.
If it's like the farming simu!ator wheel then it's very cheap made but not cheap in price.
Sounds like it probably is, then :)
Is it normal to have lateral play? Video: we.tl/t-NV8ArgZ3u0
I can't see that video. I don't know what you mean by lateral play?
Hi thanks for your reply. Here is another link for the same video: ruclips.net/video/EcVb3To_kog/видео.html - apologize for the language, its in Maltese. But you can clearly see the “loose” movement i.e lateral play.
Hi Matthew. I can't be certain as I don't have an unadulterated Saitek yoke any more but I wouldn't be surprised if this was normal. The bearing is just a plastic ring and perhaps it wears over time.
@@AlmostAviation That is strange since I purchased this yoke just 3 weeks ago. Will get in touch with the shop and ask for a replacement then. Once again thank you very much for your time.
@@matthewborgcarr1345 Hi Matthew, I wonder if you misunderstood, I meant to say this is probably normal. It might be worth checking with other people though, maybe asking in this forum at Avsim: www.avsim.com/forums/forum/328-hardware-controllers-joysticks-drivers/
Why don’t Saitek listen to the many user complaint about the crappy manufacture of their product and fix it. It’s not difficult?
because they would need to increase the price if they wanted to make a better product. This is the best you'll get for this price point
Yup, cost. They probably figure that is their marginal rate of return on this product.
Also, it probably is difficult. Changing processes, altering various doodads. There's probably heaps of science involved.
Because Saitek doesn't exist anymore, first bought out by madcatz, and in turn bought out by logitech, and Logitech is not interested in flight controls, hence why all the original Saitek components are becoming harder and harder to find. (Such as the now vanished trim wheel)
I ave opened 100 times. Just horror. I removed all and use a rubbers, but still crap and remain crap.
Look like cost them no more than 10 dollars to make it. And I paid, better not say.
WOW! That's 35 minutes of my life I'll never get back. Why anyone would go through all that to make this yoke work better is beyond me. You would need the knowledge of an engineer to do all of this. I don't believe it's worth it at all not to mention it a total eyesore to look at.
And yet, 76,000 people were interested.
@Jeff - Perhaps people don't need to be an engineer to do this.... maybe just a little bit more clever than you are.
This guy has no idea what he’s doing he called grease vaseline
Impeccable reasoning.
@@AlmostAviation I was just making a joke no offence
@@GermanPilotNishanth OK, none taken :)
You may have a good idea, however too much negativity I cannot watch the entire thing.
I'm not sure what you mean, sorry.
You lost me when you wanted to take the action away from the yoke and used the drawer slides instead. That takes away from the realism to me. I grasp that these aren't the best working yoke systems but having the shaft fixed in position jsut wouldn't seem right to me. Not knocking your work by any means, just isn't for me.
If you close your eyes, can you tell the difference?
@@AlmostAviation I doubt it but I'm not too keen on flying with my eyes closed, otherwise I wouldn't need a yoke at all lol
@@Gkitchens1 The mechanism is in any case intended to be out of sight, which is why I made the shaft longer.
@@AlmostAviation that certainly makes sense. If I couldn't see mine it wouldn't matter to me very much. Do you think it would bother you if iyour set up was such that it was in your full view while being used?
@@Gkitchens1 No, I don't think it would. I think the intuition that if it looks incongruous it can't be useful is wrong. Look at how many people who haven't tried TrackIR are scornful of it, and yet it is probably one of the best-selling FS addons there has ever been.
Seems totally unnecessary
And yet...
Wow Really that looks awful.
Really? That’s ugly.
Ugly utility beats beautiful junk :)
Almost Aviation that’s he reason I upgrade to PFC.
I'm 9 minutes into this video and still have no idea what you are trying to accomplish. You've rambled on quite a bit with no stated goal.
Well it seems you haven't been paying attention. The goal is pretty much summed up at 1:25.