The V10 Roars to Life Once Again!
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- Опубликовано: 16 окт 2024
- A long overdue update is here! On this episode I finally finish the part of the project I was dreading the most: dash upholstery and cockpit wiring. With this behind me, full steam ahead on finishing this project. Enjoy episode-47!
Love this freakin’ build!
Dash looks incredible and the engine sounds amazing.... the wiring for me is intimidating.... great work !!!
Welcome back Dan
It’s been a minute
Good to see an update.
Excellent progress Dan, so good to see you back on it again. 👍
YESSSSSSS! This is by far my favorite build on RUclips and it doesn't matter that the videos are few and far between! I even like this better than Freddy's P1 rebuild!
I’m going to REALLY try and get back to regular video posting. It was a crazy last few months. Thanks for your kind words. Freddy’s P1 is certainly on a different level so I’m humbled! 🙏
This is also my favourite RUclips build, because what you are actually doing is building a complete car from the ground up and I'm a Ultima fan. Thank you Dan for sharing all the hard work you are doing and can't wait for the completion.
Wonderful.....
Awesome work Dan. It’s coming together nicely. Can’t wait for the maiden voyage 💪💪
Dash looks great. Only you will see the wrinkles. Amazing project. Role on 2024 .
Way to go, Dan. Great to hear it running, the end is in sight!
Nice work Dan!!
This really is an astonishing piece of work. Well done Dan😊😊
wow wow wow
Amazing !!!!! ❤❤❤
Amazing progress and it sounds awesome.
And the
camera microphones wig out; don’t do it justice. Hope you are well!
Fantastic work Dan, really love the sound of this beast too. Have a great weekend
yeah bb! Wath a beauty evo! Its wants to run! Ill miss this build Men!
Hi Dan as usual outstanding work Kind Regards from Liverpool England
You have done a great Job Dan! Congratulations! We all appreciate all the hours of hard work along with filming. That must of been a great feeling all the green lights and starting perfectly. Now the final stages are now very close. 👏
Nice work!
Hi Dan, good to see that you have tackled the interior and it looks very good.
I understand that for some materials (NB: I have not seen it done for Alcantara so please note this Health Warning (fire, gases etc ?)), it is possible to use a heat gun to remove the wrinkles. It is a good idea to use the external alcantara. I'll look into this.
We are in no hurry for you to finish: you have a real job and normal Dad type progress is fine ;-).
Dan, all that wiring gives me anxiety! That thing sounds awesome.
Great to watch another update, hope the next one isn't such a long wait though 😉
The next vid won’t be as long. It’s time I get back into the groove. 👍
Cool ryker and celica in the background. The split loom would be better just in case you have to change out a wire to bigger
Dan, I woke up early this morning thinking about you and your project. I want to mention a few things about the GTR to you that I have not shared widely. I really like the guys at Ultima and they did lot of extra fabrication work on my chassis, primarily for strength, and were excellent to work with as I got into the testing phase of my GTR. First, the GTR's were run mostly in Europe on glass-smooth tracks. The chassis itself is FIA legal, which is fine for Europe, but it is not SCCA legal. You can (and I did) race in the NASA, BMW, Corvette, Ferrari, Viper club events. I also ran in one open road race, the Silver State Classic. I'm a road race instructor at the Miller track in Utah, the Las Vegas and Pahrump, NV tracks, and most of the clubs. I started racing in Formula Ford, the C-Sport Racers, then GT3 Porsche, then GT2 Porsches.
I don't know anything about what your intended use of your GTR is, but mine was pure race, non street legal and to go considerably faster than my GT3/GT2 Porsches in the open road races. I built two engine packages, a dry-sump SBC with Kinsler Stack injection, normally aspirated, about 660hp, and also a 310 cu in dry-sum SBC with twin-turbos, about 1450 hp at the rear wheels, with cockpit adjustable boost (like my airplanes). I never needed any more than about 750 hp to blow away anything in the many road races I ran.
There were only 5 GTR cars in the USA when I started my build, and all but one were unskilled hobby builders. The exception was the K&N Racing team, who quickly figured out the chassis wasn't legal, and the other complaints they had were related to the front suspension, in particular caster angle, and essentially unsafe level of bump-steer (toe-in/toe-out with suspension travel). I didn't think much about it at the time, an set up the suspension per the factory instruction where essentially with a caster angle of 0 degree's (straight up and down). This works well on a glassy smooth chassis and since there was no power steering in the early cars, it was the only option for any driver other than a body builder. However, if you want to go fast, you generally run somewhere around 9 degrees of caster. Upon the completion of my build, the first event I took the car to was the Silver State Classic, and I'm thinking that was in the Fall of 2000. My co-driver was a friend and also a road-race instructor in the bmw club. We ran the twin-turbo engine package for that race, and went from zero to 237 mph in 18 seconds flat, verified by a radar gun at the starting line. A friend of mine Gary Patterson (President of Shelby America), was an official at that race at the starting line and he said he had never seen anything accelerate that fast in the history of the event. So, we were flying, and then just 10 miles down the track we hit a small bump and nearly lost the car (and our lives). Somehow I saved it, slowed it down and parked on the side of the road so we could watch all the other cars run. At the time, I had though the instability was an aerodynamic issue despite the wind-tunnel testing with the wing settings we used.
I road raced the car that year successfully on road-race circuits. On a smooth circuit the handling and stability of the car was fine, and it gave me time to talk with many racers and mechanics about suspension geometry and what I had experienced in the open road-race. On a road race-track, you might have a bad day and you might bend some expensive parts, but you probably won't dir. What I learned was the biggest issue was the camber; the faster you go the more camber you need. Second issue was the GTR steering of that year was straight into a rack and pinion assembly, and way to 'quick' for high speed travel. Looking at your videos I see some kind of mechanism between the steering wheel shaft and the box. Ideally this box would be power assist and also have changeable ratios if you want to race. The final piece is that you must know the suspension coil-rates and I would recommend someone with track experience to get it right. The bump-steer issue as I understood it was something that K&N made extensive changes to on their chassis.
What I did is give up on 230 mph open road racing... A good friend of mine died and his wife/co-pilot were critically injured as a result of a tire failure and resulting crash at 190mph in his twin-turbo Porsche in the 2001 race. It took him a year to succumb to his injuries... hard to watch. My children at that time we 2, 6 and 7 and it made me think about the risks. But that's another story.
I'm totally blown away with your many fab skills and attention to details with your project. Clearly you have an occupation that allows you the freedom to have some fun and not worry so much about what it costs. A GTR is a really lightweight car and even with 400 hp you can easily kill yourself. Regardless of your driving experience I would find a very large paved open area, or a road race track that is flat and figure out the save envelope of speeds and G's; then avoid those speeds and G's. We do this in the process of learning to fly airplanes, and for good reason.
Sorry for the diatribe... stay safe.
Wow--amazing and scary stories...Certainly reinforces the respect this car requires and deserves. And great advice to get the car out in a large open space to test the envelope--this is definitely a 'must do'! Thanks for taking the time to provide me perspective. I really appreciate it!
@@DanDulac re-reading my prior note, I mean caster, not camber of front suspension. 9 degrees improves high speed stability but greatly increases steering effort; not an issue if you have power assist. No such system was available circa 2000.
Great work dan, but do we have wait an another 2 months for a video?
That is not in the plan. I’m determined to get back on a more frequent schedule!
Tip
If there are buttons that you don’t want to accidentally press don’t put them anywhere near ones you do.
For example
If you put the starter button or kill switch beside the horn or windshield wipers it could be embarrassing if you fat fingered the wrong button.
Was so ready for some good content. Great stuff for sure. I actually was thinking about this build a few days ago stuck in traffic.....wondering....how is Dan and his build coming along. Thanks and safe travels.