Led Tape Part 2
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- Опубликовано: 21 май 2021
- Cutting, soldering and connecting LED tape. This example shows RGBW tape with 5 wire connection, but the principles of connecting wires are the same for single colour (2 wires) and RGB (4 wires).
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The most no-nonsense presentation style on youtube, but is apparently a fan of one of the silliest TV shows in history... Love it.
Great video. Remind me of my old electronics teacher at school in the 80's
Crystal clear. And thanks for targeting lead-free solder with some choice remarks.
7:37 . . . That was art to watch being done!!
Ah another good afternoon to all JW club members.... Let's watch part 2 on tape... Forget DVD... any JW production is better anyway
Liquid electrical tape works very well to cover the soldered connectors and acts like strain relief on the wires too
It does require a bit of time for the solvent to evaporate and it turn to 'plastic' but well worth it.
John Ward,
Thanks for another great video, I have to agree with you regarding lead-free solder, I've used 60/40 for ever, that's getting hard to find here now, but I have a stash of it in my workshop.
I'm pretty sure it was lead-free solder that wrecked the last tip on my Hakko soldering iron, it corroded the tip away, even though I use one of them brass wool tip cleaners.
It's just do-gooders thinking they know what's best for everyone else.
Good to see you telling everyone how crappy lead free solder is.
20:18 very small "nit pick" but the output is almost certainly unsmoothed PWM on the ground, rather than a varied voltage.
Great Video on LED Tape - My three tips:
1) BlueTac is also a useful substance for holding wires/items while soldering.
2) I use a mini battery fan off Flee Bay to blow the solder fumes away...
3) I used the white LED tape under our kitchen units and looks great. But instead of cat5, I used white phone cable, then used super glue (mind your fingers!) instead of P clips to stick cable into corner, leading to void at back of units, with the 12v LED driver on top of the units.
thanks john very very good
The controller doesn't vary the voltage it uses pulse width modulation so the controller doesn't need large heat dissipation and more complex control.
you sir, are an absolute master class, thankyou
Make sure the wire you're using is copper, too. I've encountered some CAT5 cables that simply would not take solder no matter how much flux I caked them in. They must have been CCA or something lower in quality than pure copper.
I typically use scissors / shears to cut LED tape. If using short lengths where you only need to connect to one end, it can be helpful to cut so as to leave the entire pad on the usable piece.
Hey - it's worth noting that cat5e cable and cat6 don't have huge current ratings. The pure copper cat 6 is only rated upto 350ma in IT applications. 5e is less and anything that's cca or copper clad aluminium has a lower rating.
Why so low out if interest? Assuming 23awg is being used here.
@@TheHawkeye001 probably that's the results from the tests.... Cat5e is 24awg, cat6 is 24 or 23. So from the tables for 23 it looks under but then you need to look at voltage drop over the length you're using.
The dimming may well be Pulse Width Modulation (PWM). Since this is cheaper to implement.
Do you know of one that isn't? When I tried to find a dimmer that lowered the voltage or did variable constant current control I couldn't find one.
With a remote at least. (You could use a generic variable DC DC power supply module with CC I guess, but then no remote and not made for LED strips?)
Just installing a lot of this stuff in our new kitchen. The LED tape is silicone covered, the remote system is radio controlled with screw terminals and the 24V power supplies are pretty powerful things. Only complaint is that the 350W power supply for our 20m run, has a fan which runs all the time, so it's not silent. The 150W PSU for a smaller run is fine.
Though they cannot be controlled directly by the Amazon Alexa, I'm working on a solution for that.
Nice one I use this all the time .The plug connectors are rubbish. I will have ago at this.
Nice to know soldering is fine.
Is soldering better than buying a snap/clip on "RGBW LED Strip Tail Connector" or just easier? Or maybe a regulation thing?
Hello J.W Your Hair is so Trendy. i love it...
Hi John, 21:17, not just for support also a switch to indicate inserted plugs on them too,
ps, did you notice the resistor values on the strip were 151 all except for the R line which read 331, enjoyed the video
Kind regards Warren
can i use my controller on my 100w panel for led lights strip
Might it be better to have the wires approach the pad from the tape side?
If 12v led tape was rated at ip65 does it need to be in an enclosure for the rating to be effective?
Great video too!
If the tape itself is truly rated at IP65, no. I suspect you'd have to take care at the splicing points though.
But what about joining waterproof tape or rgbic tape?
Also as it the normal from stuff from China...it may say WBRG...The number of times I’ve connected it up that way and red is blue or blue is red
Hi mr.John
We want contact with you
I want to come an electrician what I have to do can you suggest a college or place to learn please I am living in Kingston
I’ve been using this individually addressable strip, RGBW LEDs with only three terminals on the strip (+5V, GND, and Data). 60 LEDs per metre. However I have to use 18AWG or in my case three core 0.75mm flex (toolstation I think? Or maybe from TLC) because current is much higher. Works nicely for about 5m as long as power is injected along the route at various points. Then you have the problem of how to inject power which requires running two cores of that cable in parallel with the strips, inside the aluminium strip. I found a 10mm strip works like a treat as you can push the cable up inside the edges. Check out Intermit.Tech on RUclips as he makes these excellent driver boards with specified current ratings (20A!) that can be powered from an external supply. All controlled over WiFi. Love his stuff!
I'd transpose the White and Brown, but that's maybe just me
Oh lord.. a crummy age-old Antex iron still prevails :D
My first iron was an Antex. Worked well enough, until the day the bit became live and sparked to a nearby surface. Never been even close to an Antex iron since.
@@bdf2718 If your bit was able to become live then your earth was obviously faulty or non-existent, but if you saw a spark then it's more likely that what you were trying to solder was in fact actually live! nothing wrong with those old Antex irons so long as you have an earth connection in the plug/socket and what you're soldering is not connected to any form of supply voltage - user error I suspect.
Completely agree that lead free is rubbish.
If you’ve measured your length of led tape and at the end of the length your not going to solder wires onto it to say go round a corner...cut the tape but leave all the copper pad on the next piece makes a large pad for soldering then...