Timestamps Current state and upgrades: 0:39 Baseline performance tests: 4:55 Upgrade installation highlights: 6:07 First impressions after upgrades: 15:54 Upgraded performances tests: 20:00 Indoor course runs: 22:04 Rock crawling: 27:28 Final thoughts: 32:37
I just purchased a C10, I am in the process of upgrading it. Thank you so much for the video, it helped me a lot in what I needed to do to make this little truck great. I am new to this hobby, I just started, and I am 78 years young, Thanks again for sharing.
My GOODNESS when you started it and the motor started spinning and there was NO NOISE . . . I thought what did he do wrong?! and then I saw it was creeping forwards ever so slowly! So slow I didn't even see it was moving at first! it's like a ghost! it just drifts over the entire indoor course with hardly a whisper! VERY impressive!
Ive found a better option for mounting the shocks to the chassis than the normal way, if you mount the upper eyes of the front two shocks towards the front of the vehicle instead of the back, it helps prevent shock unloading on steep climbs because it works with gravity to keep the weight towards the wheels, it works well on the stock c10 chassis.
And want to mention that i liked this "Hulk" in its first version, with the stock chassis. Also just noticed myself after building the Mazz chassis that i like the "lesser" builds just as much. Big step for me is brushless, i just love this FOC thing, to be able to superslow crawl over anything while the brushed motor, even with a good smooth ESC reminds at a toy car, that jumpiness when you have to give more throttle when you need more power.
So pleased to see the C10 return to sleeper status - it has too much character to be in full hulk mode all the time. Bruce Banner going slightly green is its sweet spot!
Yup those shocks are pretty good, i had the injora double barrel with short springs and the limiting elastic on the front, on my comp rig, lost a ton of articulation and droop but got more capable with those shocks
I love your channel I am getting back into the RC world I use to fly but where I am there is nothing but tall trees but how far crawlers have come in the past 4-5 years when all you could get was the 1/10 scale I love these little guys and they are reasonable in cost to buy and upgrade
Man, your Killing me just got a Silver C10, B runningn it tomorrow 😂 Weill I'll, now what I need as time goes by 2 get 4 it , got a HYPER GO H16BM, 2 NOW TRYING SLOW 👍
The OG Hulk was my initial inspiration for building an scx24. I need to revisit some Trencher’s, what inserts are you running? I got pretty bad sidewall roll when I ran them on my trx4m with stock foams..
This looks so nice and squat. A question about rock sliders -Are the a must have, in terms of climbing and not getting hung-up on stuff? Or do they just offer a convenient place to mount esc/rx etc?
I like the sliders, particular with trucks that have the lexan bodies. In my experience they really do help slide up and over rocks and keep sticks and debris from getting wedged under the body. They're also very useful for mounting electronics.
Tough call. The shorter wheelbase of the C10 gives it better breakover and makes it more nimble. But the longer wheelbase on the XL make it much better at climbing. I'll have to do a head to head to find out!
Buddy of mine bought that firma system for his c-10 because it said "crawler" in the description..It was terrible at low speeds..literally incapable of a decent slow speed crawl and no way to adjust it at all which was a surprise🤔....I talked him into the furitek system and he loves it
@@CapeCrawlers I thought we could solve it via the program box...Nope...says in the manual it's preset and nonadjustable...really disappointed in spektrum on this one..Good Luck 🖖🏼
Awesome video. I dropped in an underdrive gear on my C10, but in reverse i get body lift and tilt to the left rear wheel. Tried a bunch of different o-ring configurations and none helped. Went back to stock and no problem. Is this common with underdrive or did I get a defective part?
Without going full-blown on a build right off the bat what would you recommend for a brand new C10 I've already bought wheels and tires from RC four-wheel drive and I bought diff covers covers
Check this video out: ruclips.net/video/AnaIpMUSONI/видео.html And also this one for how to mount the shocks to the frame: ruclips.net/video/FKWb6ZTaldI/видео.html
@CapeCrawlers thanks sir!! Love the pick-up style but great performance. Keep up the good vids. P.s. I love when u guys use the tilt table to compare. I wonder how this tilt stacks up against your ultimate Gladiator and Deadbolt.
Which Jeep, the JLU or the gladiator? My recipe is pretty standard across builds: long shocks with no springs, mounted to the frame rails. Usually have to trim the body to make room for the articulation and bigger tires (of your choice). I like to widen the axles and add brass down low (knuckles, diff covers). Regarding your previous comment about upside down shocks: I only do this when I find the shocks to be sticking. It helps reduce binding. Removing one o-ring from the top mounting position helps a lot too.
About those Injora Oil Shocks, i am surprised that you go from "no springs" on most of your performance rigs to those rather stiff springs, just tried them on a mofo chassis, angles about like yours but now its a monster truck stance, no crawler, i understand the idea of less articulation and that the oil dampening might help but the high stance with rather stiff springs ??? Might try to use those without springs, will try later.
It depends on the chassis too. I can get away with springs and more damping with these high performance chassis kits. They position the shocks in a way that lowers the COG substantially from the get go, which is the goal of removing the springs from my other builds. If I were pursuing lots of articulation I would still remove the springs because I would be running a longer shock and the collapsed length would invariably raise the chassis height.
It always takes me by surprise when somebody correctly refers to shock action as “damping” instead or “dampening”, which means “to make damp”. Well done.
Why don’t you just keep the mini hulk and just buy a new c10 body and paint it for sleeper build. The only thing that’s left in there probably is the body and the servo once you finished the build. At least you now have a two c10 build.
my tuck is having some problems.the steering stops and starts 3-4 times as i try to steer from cennter to all the way to the left or right .the (digital emax) servo is good.the red light on the esc turns off when the servo stops. the motor only works when the red light is on.the red light sometimes flickers, goes dim, or just turns off.i put new batteries in the remote ,, and a full battery in the truck.i don't know what is wrong ..as long as the red light is on the motor works fine.i was wondering if you have any ideas
Timestamps
Current state and upgrades: 0:39
Baseline performance tests: 4:55
Upgrade installation highlights: 6:07
First impressions after upgrades: 15:54
Upgraded performances tests: 20:00
Indoor course runs: 22:04
Rock crawling: 27:28
Final thoughts: 32:37
I just purchased a C10, I am in the process of upgrading it. Thank you so much for the video, it helped me a lot in what I needed to do to make this little truck great. I am new to this hobby, I just started, and I am 78 years young, Thanks again for sharing.
A shootout between your best crawlers would be fun tonwatch!
I'll make it happen!
@CapeCrawlers good to hear 👍
I second that!
Is there a link to your 4 corner scale? My apologies if I missed that.
Probably one of my favorite scx24 videos...of any channel!
I love the concept, and performance! So nice to watch an RC vid with no receiver/esc whine.
My GOODNESS when you started it and the motor started spinning and there was NO NOISE . . . I thought what did he do wrong?! and then I saw it was creeping forwards ever so slowly! So slow I didn't even see it was moving at first! it's like a ghost! it just drifts over the entire indoor course with hardly a whisper! VERY impressive!
That was impressive! So nice slow crawling and planted, no rub to the fenders no bouncing, no belly dragging, just awesome dude!
Thanks! It's probably my most refined build!
Yes it did crushed that line, it looks pretty steep awesome 👍👍😎
Ive found a better option for mounting the shocks to the chassis than the normal way, if you mount the upper eyes of the front two shocks towards the front of the vehicle instead of the back, it helps prevent shock unloading on steep climbs because it works with gravity to keep the weight towards the wheels, it works well on the stock c10 chassis.
Great idea!
And want to mention that i liked this "Hulk" in its first version, with the stock chassis. Also just noticed myself after building the Mazz chassis that i like the "lesser" builds just as much. Big step for me is brushless, i just love this FOC thing, to be able to superslow crawl over anything while the brushed motor, even with a good smooth ESC reminds at a toy car, that jumpiness when you have to give more throttle when you need more power.
Wow u did not hold back so clean🔥🔥🔥
Thanks! It was a fun project!
@@CapeCrawlersit’s like that ship of Theseus theory lol
Just goes to show, mega flex could be a flop. I think you went in the right direction, great build!😊 Awesome video Adam 👍
Flex is fun but not always practical. Thanks for watching!
Man that thing is a monster now even with the shorter length shocks! Such a sleeper!
It really is a beast. I am so happy with how it turned out!
You really nailed this one! Nice job, man. Keep making these builds.
Thank you, glad you enjoyed it!
So pleased to see the C10 return to sleeper status - it has too much character to be in full hulk mode all the time. Bruce Banner going slightly green is its sweet spot!
So well said!
Yup those shocks are pretty good, i had the injora double barrel with short springs and the limiting elastic on the front, on my comp rig, lost a ton of articulation and droop but got more capable with those shocks
I am really surprised at how well they work. Bargain performance right there!
I love your channel I am getting back into the RC world I use to fly but where I am there is nothing but tall trees but how far crawlers have come in the past 4-5 years when all you could get was the 1/10 scale I love these little guys and they are reasonable in cost to buy and upgrade
Cool video!LCG with oil shocks seems to tame the terrain well with this rig!
Love this video sooo much I just keep watching it over and over fantasizing to do this with my c10 🤞🏻
dude a cheat code under that must be insane
Looks great, performs great and makes you happy. Mission accomplished 👍🏻👍🏻
Man, your Killing me just got a Silver C10, B runningn it tomorrow 😂 Weill I'll, now what I need as time goes by 2 get 4 it , got a HYPER GO H16BM, 2 NOW TRYING SLOW 👍
Other than the body, is it still an Axial rig? 😅 Feel like all the Axial parts have been, totally ripped out like there's no tomorrow. Lol
The stock diff gears in the front axle housing! LOL
@@CapeCrawlers seems legit. Lol
Nice. I made a sleeper as well. Also a C10, but the body might look a bit more beat up.
Just bought my first RC car ever and it’s an axial c10. Bone stock. Do you have list of parts for mods that you recommend for my first build ?
Check out this video: ruclips.net/video/nOOvKnG--JE/видео.html
Really took cap of to save weight but then put a big tire up top ?? What's the weight difference??
I would have to weigh them. The cap is pretty weighty. The spare tire is much easier to take off if I want max performance
The OG Hulk was my initial inspiration for building an scx24. I need to revisit some Trencher’s, what inserts are you running? I got pretty bad sidewall roll when I ran them on my trx4m with stock foams..
I'm running stock foams that come with the trenchers. I am going to try the new ProLine dual stage foams soon though
I use foams one tire size too small. Gives squash like running 8 psi irl.
Yeah that’s a tough line, did it great 👍👍😎
sweet thanks
good info and products u used for ur build
Could you do a vid of building a rig from the ground up vs pre built with upgrades and see wich is cheaper.
This looks so nice and squat.
A question about rock sliders -Are the a must have, in terms of climbing and not getting hung-up on stuff? Or do they just offer a convenient place to mount esc/rx etc?
I like the sliders, particular with trucks that have the lexan bodies. In my experience they really do help slide up and over rocks and keep sticks and debris from getting wedged under the body. They're also very useful for mounting electronics.
Nice build dude 👍🪨🛻
Are you wheeling these today? I want to come see them before i go buy one.
hey Adam, are you going to Axialfest 2023 at Robb's Resort in pollock pines, California?
Not this year unfortunately. Next year I am going to schedule some trips though!
That was awesome up Hells gate 👍👍😎
Which one do you think is more capable of your two mazz designs build the XL or this one the mini hulk.
Tough call. The shorter wheelbase of the C10 gives it better breakover and makes it more nimble. But the longer wheelbase on the XL make it much better at climbing. I'll have to do a head to head to find out!
@@CapeCrawlers what if yiu give the c10 a little stretch. something like the ultra 24 wheelbase to get a good combination of both worlds?
Wait! The motor turns 😮
That was awesome of the excavator
I’m curious if the magnet body mount came with the kit? If not where did you get it from? Thanks
Buddy of mine bought that firma system for his c-10 because it said "crawler" in the description..It was terrible at low speeds..literally incapable of a decent slow speed crawl and no way to adjust it at all which was a surprise🤔....I talked him into the furitek system and he loves it
I thought about keeping the firma and using the UD gears to try to smooth it out. I think it's a lost cause though. That motor is just too jumpy
@@CapeCrawlers I thought we could solve it via the program box...Nope...says in the manual it's preset and nonadjustable...really disappointed in spektrum on this one..Good Luck 🖖🏼
Awesome video. I dropped in an underdrive gear on my C10, but in reverse i get body lift and tilt to the left rear wheel. Tried a bunch of different o-ring configurations and none helped. Went back to stock and no problem. Is this common with underdrive or did I get a defective part?
It’s possible. You could be getting some binding due to a bad part
Without going full-blown on a build right off the bat what would you recommend for a brand new C10 I've already bought wheels and tires from RC four-wheel drive and I bought diff covers covers
I would suggest a servo upgrade, new motor, and some brass steering knuckles
@@CapeCrawlers so far I bought tires and inserts servo and the mount and RC and injura (sp) weighted bet you can add or take weights
Great video and awesome rig!
I'm new to the game. Your videos are so cool
Thats SUPER IMPRESSIVE MATE. Can you do a video of taking it out to a comp 🤘
Thanks! And yes, when I take it to an actual comp I will certainly document it
Can this perform as good as the deadbolt? I am in the market but the c10 just looks way better!
Yes it can absolutely
i have double barrel shocks on my c10 should i run some upside down i have the injore 43mm
The DB like to be ran upside down sometimes, helps with any binding. Can’t hurt to give it a shot..
the jlu could give me the link to get some things to widen it and also i am not sure where the frame rails are would i have to get a new chasis
Check this video out: ruclips.net/video/AnaIpMUSONI/видео.html
And also this one for how to mount the shocks to the frame: ruclips.net/video/FKWb6ZTaldI/видео.html
Siki smooth, love it !👍
Need a chassis set up that works like this for the fcx24 blazer.
Agreed. Furitek makes the grasshopper chassis for the FCX. I've never tried it to see if it's a big performance gain though
You should do a kyosho jeep crawler build
I should. I get asked about that a lot actually
Can the LGRP motor be mounted backwards or in it's stock location?
You can flip the skid plate around and run it rear facing
How much longer than the K5 BLAZER?
Are you gonna do a injora tarantula video? I’m thinking of buying it but I might wait for your video to get it
Yes! The video will be up by Sunday
@@CapeCrawlersok good
Hey bud, I was wondering the type of wheels used here
What wheels you got on there?
They're Injora beadlocks but I can't seem to find them online anymore. Here is a similar set: amzn.to/44y3wqm
Sweet man 😋👌
Love it
Hi great video, where did you get that top from I haven’t seen them for sale anywhere, stay safe mate 🇬🇧
Thanks! Here is the top: alnk.to/2jKcUyL
@@CapeCrawlers thanks for that I will get that ordered , thanks mate stay safe 🇬🇧
@CapeCrawlers hey what cheat code chassis did you/he use here??? The link goes to 4 different ones the v2, v2 ti, xl, and xl ti
V2 on this one
@CapeCrawlers thanks sir!! Love the pick-up style but great performance.
Keep up the good vids. P.s. I love when u guys use the tilt table to compare. I wonder how this tilt stacks up against your ultimate Gladiator and Deadbolt.
aslo how could i get my c10 to be a similar build to the jeep
Which Jeep, the JLU or the gladiator? My recipe is pretty standard across builds: long shocks with no springs, mounted to the frame rails. Usually have to trim the body to make room for the articulation and bigger tires (of your choice). I like to widen the axles and add brass down low (knuckles, diff covers). Regarding your previous comment about upside down shocks: I only do this when I find the shocks to be sticking. It helps reduce binding. Removing one o-ring from the top mounting position helps a lot too.
how did you mount the spare tire?
What type of corner scales are they or recommend?
I use the Powerhobby ones and like them a lot
About those Injora Oil Shocks, i am surprised that you go from "no springs" on most of your performance rigs to those rather stiff springs, just tried them on a mofo chassis, angles about like yours but now its a monster truck stance, no crawler, i understand the idea of less articulation and that the oil dampening might help but the high stance with rather stiff springs ??? Might try to use those without springs, will try later.
It depends on the chassis too. I can get away with springs and more damping with these high performance chassis kits. They position the shocks in a way that lowers the COG substantially from the get go, which is the goal of removing the springs from my other builds. If I were pursuing lots of articulation I would still remove the springs because I would be running a longer shock and the collapsed length would invariably raise the chassis height.
If it wasn’t so wide it would be a true sleeper build
That’s the only grease I use Yep I’m here watching
#shortshockgang ! Come to the darkside Adam 😏
I think the super 8s take away from it being a sleeper. Should of used the Injoras since we all know they're a cheaper option.
I thought about that as well. Still have the Injora's on the bench if I want to switch!
@@CapeCrawlers They definitely are a nice set of axles though!
do you need a different reciever/ remote to run the LGRP creeper motor?
Yes you need a external receiver unless you get the esc combo he got that has it built in but you can only use it with the furitek transmitter
@@710_crawlers damn alr, thanks
Just needs a front bumper
flexy sleeper😂
Who sells the c10 cap, or where can i get it?
I got it from rc4wd
💪💯
How much dose it cost to do a set up like that
From the ground up probably ~$450
It always takes me by surprise when somebody correctly refers to shock action as “damping” instead or “dampening”, which means “to make damp”. Well done.
❤
Brushless seems slow, should have a 3s system
Why don’t you just keep the mini hulk and just buy a new c10 body and paint it for sleeper build. The only thing that’s left in there probably is the body and the servo once you finished the build. At least you now have a two c10 build.
well said, obviously when these u tubers say c10 it is actually just the body.
Good idea. I thought about getting a grey body and doing a grey/black theme. I still may do that
Looking awesome 👍👍😎
Yeah actually too much articulation isn’t good , love the build looks awesome. Will catch you on the next one 👍👍😎
Nice save 👍👍😎
would a mofo rc scx24 buzzsaw motor with a mod 3 pinion work with an injora aluminum transmision?
Yes. The mod 3 pitch should work just fine with the Injora trans
Thanks, good to know. Great channel! Keep it up!
my tuck is having some problems.the steering stops and starts 3-4 times as i try to steer from cennter to all the way to the left or right .the (digital emax) servo is good.the red light on the esc turns off when the servo stops. the motor only works when the red light is on.the red light sometimes flickers, goes dim, or just turns off.i put new batteries in the remote ,, and a full battery in the truck.i don't know what is wrong ..as long as the red light is on the motor works fine.i was wondering if you have any ideas
So you are only reusing the body 😂 sell me the old parts plz
It’s a cool build but not worth spending $600 on no way.