How To Change Sparkplugs | Ram 2500 6.4L Hemi Engine
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- Опубликовано: 9 фев 2025
- Showing you how to change your sparkplugs in a 2015 Ram 2500 with a 6.4L Gas Engine. Not too difficult, just time consuming. Check out these tools to save some time!
Thexton Mfg Co. 492 Spark Plug Installer/Remover Kit: amzn.to/3HtAbCT
Steelman 08310R Flexible 12-Inch Spark Plug Starter: amzn.to/3tAEcQk
GEARWRENCH 3/8" Drive 6 Pt. 5/8" x 6" Magnetic Swivel Spark Plug Socket - 80546: amzn.to/39s0z3n
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I just recently replaced the transmission in my 2015 2500 6.4l Power Wagon at 96000 miles! So I feel your pain. Will be tackling spark plugs soon. Thanks for the video
This is my second Ram and if there is a weak point on these trucks, it's definitely the transmission. Good luck with those plugs!
My 2018 Power Wagon has 97K on it now….haven’t had any issues at all but I just saw this comment and now I’m paranoid about my trans 😂 glad it’s under warranty through 150K
My 2016 Power Wagon is at 84,000 but I did a full transmission service at about 70,000. I don't look forward to 3 hours doing plugs though. I wish the grill still came up with the hood like the 3rd gens.
I had to have my transmission rebuilt on my 2016 power wagon at 60,000 miles.
@razz6081 i put my pw on jack stands, removed the tires and inner fender liners and did my plugs. Took 1 hour
Good video, thanks for all the tips
Thanks, I hope it helps!
When I did my plugs it recommended coils too.. so upgraded my coils to higher voltage with larger gap.. but didn't see much change in mph, only on long distance highway miles (kms in my case)
Good to know. I'll probably change mine at 150k, but I'm not expecting much.
"Anti-seiz, you get it everywhere..on your nose!" 😂
I always end up looking like the Tin Man!
@RoadandReel I know what you mean. Sometimes, all you have to do is look at it, and somehow, you get it on ya. 😆
@@elliottberry5317 😂😂
Anti seize is a must. Thought I was going to snap a plug just trying to get the originals out at 90k.
Thank you!
yeah, I was surprised how hard I had to torque them to get them out, at 100k. I've never pulled so hard to loosen a plug. But the new NGK ones screwed right in like butter. (Note: NGK does not recommend using anti seize).
One thing that took me way longer than I'd like to admit, when removing the connector for the coils, push hard in the middle, between the prongs on the red clips.
Yeah, those things are tough!
@@RoadandReel the trick is to pull them before you pull the coils, jamming a flat head into it with one hand while pulling the connector with the other. I started last night, had 2 boots stay in the holes, and only got 4 plugs changed. I did the other 12 plugs tonight, only losing one boot. Because the truck is new to me, I'd ordered replacement coils at the same time as the plugs. I put 280k miles on a Mazda, replaced the coils every 60-80k.
This is my next thing to do
It's not difficult, but it takes patience and time. Those specialized tools are life savers and not too expensive. Good luck!
@@RoadandReel Thanks bro. And thanks for the video.
2:48 why not just use a spark plug socket?
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They have rubber to hold the plug (some are magnetic)
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Then ya just add extensions as you go down the plug well
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Also, a 1 inch extension comes in handy
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A 3 inch is too short, a 6 inch is too long
But a 3 + 1 puts it RIGHT at the top of the plug well
You can, but on this engine it's difficult up against the firewall and it's a lot easier to cross thread the plug when using a socket and extension to start the plug. Old cast iron heads, sure, but I don't like to chance it on the aluminum heads, especially when in a tight spot at a bad angle. I'm scarred from past Ford Triton 5.4L experiences.
Why not remove the engine cover? Seems to offer no benefit at all. And would give u a little more room.
Honestly, I never thought of this and that is a great idea!
@@RoadandReel I have a 2022 3500 and that’s the first thing I did was get rid of it.
Why the anti-sneeze?
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If you don't go ID10T tight.... and replace them on time... they will not stick/strip
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The only time you anti sneeze plugs is on the ford 5.4 3V engines
And then it's not on the threads... but the smooth "shank"
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Anti sneeze can prevent the plug from getting a good ground....
Which causes the spark to arc through the boots... causing a nasty misfire
These plugs are going to be in this engine for the next 100,000 miles. I think the main problem with anti-sieze is when people use torque specs and over tighten causing issues. With a tiny bit on the threads, there's virtually no way to cause grounding issues unless a huge glob is used and it starts to interfere with the contact of the crush washer. I will take my chances on a grounding issue (that I've never had on hundreds of engines including many racing applications) if it minimizes my chance of pulling threads on the next spark plug change. One swipe on one side of the threads and don't over tighten and you're good.
Bosch plugs are trash...
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Wear out fast, expensive, not efficient, etc
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Just use the OEM brand.... champion
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Mopar gets Champs
Gm gets ac Delco
Ford gets Motorcraft or autolight
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Ngk is a good "all around" plug.... but I still prefer sticking with OEM on customers cars
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Their should not be a difference between plug brands.... but their is
And it can cause misfires (even on brand new coils, boots, and plugs)
"Yeah, well, you know, that's just, like, your opinion, man."
- The Dude -
In all seriousness, you probably have this experience in your line of work. I run Bosch on all my German air-cooled stuff and would never change. I think every application is different and I've heard of heat tolerances and operating temperatures being different with different engines and plugs, so, yes, OEM is probably the safest bet. Thanks for the info on which brands get which plugs. That's vary useful!
I just pulled the OEM plugs today, at 100k. They are Bosch and seemed to work for that long! I replaced them with NGKs.